Hugill & Ip’s Alfred Ip on supporting marriage equality and his time sitting as deputy district judge

Co-founder and partner of pioneering private client law firm Hugill & Ip, Alfred Ip chats with Gafencu about wealth and estate security law, supporting the LGBTQ+ community and sharing a few laughs in the comfort of his home. 

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What was your upbringing like? Any fond memories from childhood?
I come from a rather humble family. I grew up in Shek Kip Mei, where I went to school. We weren’t affluent but we didn’t exactly have many financial difficulties either. I remember thinking to myself that if I don’t make it for myself, no one else will make it for me, but that didn’t make me a grade A student. I was lucky to get into Hong Kong University to study law at a time when there were a lot of uncertainties about how things would change after the ’97 handover. Because I can honestly tell you, with my grades at the time, I would not have been able to get into HKU today.

I would have to say watching Hong Kong fly through the ’80s and ’90s, sitting in front of the TV, watching Anita Mui and Leslie Cheung, or variety shows like Miss Hong Kong Pageant or charity events (it was common for people to rush back home to watch these shows pre-internet), that was my fondest memory growing up. I witnessed Hong Kong at its prime and how it’s developed over the years. I didn’t realise it at the time but looking back now, the drive of the Hong Kong people – what we call the Lion Rock Spirit – was a value that I am grateful to have grown up with. It makes me very proud to be a Hongkonger.

Did you always want to become a lawyer or did you have other aspirations growing up?
Speaking honestly, being a lawyer was not my first choice. I had always wanted to be an architect, but fortunately that did not happen as it turns out, I was not very good at the subject anyway. But I have no regrets because fortunately, this pivot led me to take up law instead which is actually quite perfect for me because there is a lot of common sense in it, and I’m a Libra!

Jokes aside, I think the greatest satisfaction I get from my job is helping people with genuine issues. For many clients, problematic situations such as divorces and sibling rivalries result in consequences that can haunt them for the rest of their lives. What we do as lawyers is to help clients resolve their issues. It can be complicated and we cannot guarantee our clients that we will win a case – especially when nobody really wins in a divorce or estate dispute. What we can do is minimise the pain, suffering and loss of an unfavourable situation.

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Is there an experience throughout your career that stands out to you?
I would have to say serving on the judiciary at the District Court was one experience that changed me, in terms of practice as well as a person. Sitting in a position that high – both literally and metaphorically – gives you a huge sense of responsibility. You have to look at cases from an objective point of view, to look at both sides of the argument, think deeper and judge whether the person is credible or just trying to fool you. You learn to look at things differently and become somewhat of a cynical person. But it is what is required of our legal system and what makes it a reliable and respected system.

“Serving on the judiciary at the District Court was one experience that changed me. Sitting in a position that high gives you a huge sense of responsibility”

You co-founded your private practice Hugill & Ip four years ago. Tell us more about that.
One Sunday afternoon, my partner and I were outside Staunton’s Bar talking and the idea just sprung up. We saw the needs of a private client market, the issues that needed to be addressed professionally, be it in employment, estate planning, or divorce issues and realised that there was a strong synergy between his practice specialty and mine.
I specialise in private client, which is something that is rather new in Hong Kong. The needs of high-end clients only came up when wealth accumulated over the past few decades. Now, there are private client lawyers, like ourselves, to resolve those issues.

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What advice do you have for potential clients regarding wealth and estate security?
Generally, I would advise them to have all their documents in place. Nobody ever plans to get divorced or for sudden death and the emotional trauma that comes with it, but it’s always important to have an exit strategy. In cases where you don’t, we need to first, understand the client, help them figure out what they want and need because more often than not they are just as unsure how to communicate the situation. It takes a high level of empathy, understanding, patience and heart to help clients navigate the situation.

HKSAR doesn’t recognise same sex marriage. What are the barriers facing marriage equality?
When one man and one man or one woman and one woman want to get married, why can’t they? For those who value the romantic gesture, they can always get married outside of Hong Kong. But I think it’s important for the city to recognise same sex marriage, otherwise that leaves same sex couples in a vulnerable situation and unprotected by the law.

There are laws that protect individuals through a divorce or when a spouse passes away, but I’m very sad to say that at present those laws cannot be applied to same sex couples who want to protect themselves, their children and family, or fight for what should be entitled to them. We have had to, and are still, handling many such cases at the firm. I believe the law should be helping those that are vulnerable. That is what we stand for in our career and at our law firm – guiding people in genuine need of help. That is the most important thing for me.

Can more can be done? I’d say, certainly, but it takes everyone in society to pay more attention to the topic, listen more and don’t judge.

“It’s important for Hong Kong to recognise same sex marriage as same sex couples can’t get a divorce in this city – leaving them vulnerable (and) unprotected by the law”

If you could choose a superpower, what would it be and why?
If I could read people’s minds, that would save me a lot of time and energy to try to understand what people are doing and why. I’m a very straight forward person and I prefer people to treat me the same way. I’ve spent a lot of time in the closet, I don’t really need to be in there anymore [laughs]. Just let your hair down, let your guard down, and be who you are.

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Finally, could you share with us one thing that’s on your bucket list?
I’m not quite sure if I should admit this, but I’ll go ahead and say it: I’d like to one day get a tattoo! I’m not sure if that is something I have the courage to do just yet, but if I were to do it, I’d probably get a cross on my arm, just below the shoulder. I’m not a religious person but growing up in a catholic school, I appreciate the symbolism behind the cross – how one person’s pain, suffering and sacrifice was made for another’s future. To me, it means to be grateful for what you have, be humble of what you achieve and be kind to everyone.

Now that I’ve actually said it, I might as well just do it!

Thank you.

 

(Interview by: Roberliza Eugenio; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Andy Wan)

 

 

Sneaker Revolution: Spotlighting Hong Kong’s custom sneaker artists

These days, it seems that sneakers carry more cultural weight than even the once most desirable and feted brand names. With luxury brands such as Loewe, Versace and Alexander McQueen now joining the line up of high-end sneakers and collaborations between the luxury world and the biggest name in sports footwear creating a cult following. Yes, we too are coveting the recent Gucci-Adidas and -Balenciaga tie-in.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

This generation of footwear aficionados might not be able to name a single Basquiat or Warhol masterpiece but they will tell you in a heartbeat how much a pair of Yeezy sneakers will resell for. The sub-culture of sneaker collection has risen to such heights that its fandom could possibly rival even Carrie Bradshaw’s undying love of collecting designer heels.

But as the hype of sneaker collection continue to rise, it’s no longer enough to get the rarest or most trend-setting pair of kicks. These days, customised sneakers are all the rage. Creatively conceptualised to reflect the wearer’s taste and style, custom-designed sneakers go above and beyond the range of what retail stores can offer. These unique creations give its wearers a personalised pair of sneakers that they can proudly walk in and call their own.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Bridging the gap between designer shoes and bespoke footwear are custom sneaker designers. These artists turns run-of-the-mill canvas footwear into one-of-a-kind custom sneakers. Coming from a background in fine arts, graphic design and fashion design, the diversity of sneaker customisers add a youthful and modern style that many younger generations seek. Out of the box and statement-bearing, these custom sneaker designers are hand-drawn and -painted, each pair is matched to the style and personality of the customer, making no two designs ever alike – an appealing factor that many fashion enthusiasts and shoe collectors love.
Read on as Gafencu spotlights the sneaker revolutionaries in Hong Kong to turn to for your bespoke sneaker fix.

Creative Kicks

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Tapping into the niche market is Hong Kong sneaker illustrator 199xCustom, who specialises in animation characters and cartoons – particularly Japanese anime. She first tried her hand at sneaker customisation after a disappointing search for a design that was not available in the market. She subsequently turned to her passion for drawing to create her own, eventually turning fan art creations into an artistic interpretation of sneaker customisation.

“There are actually several different categories of customisation. I specialise in painting and using an airbrush, which generally requires a wide range of brushes, airbrushes, and pigments”, explains the artist.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Anime characters and cartoons account for a large part of her work because it is a unique market not available at a retail level. However, her artistic flare and edgy style stretches beyond animation. Her original designs also range from incorporating elements of Japanese fine art, like ukiyo-e, to create an embroidered dragon and tiger pattern on the mesh body of a Yeezy 350 sneaker.

A pair of customised sneakers could cost anywhere from hundreds to thousands of Hong Kong dollars. Depending on the complexity of each design, the tools and materials required – which often cost a few hundred Hong Kong dollars to purchase as well, (and ultimately) the time it takes to complete each project, prices can vary but the result will, more often than not, reflect in quality and creativity.

Back in Time

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Photo courtesy of Simple Union

However, the service of sneaker customising isn’t simply picking up a paintbrush and stenciling a printout. It takes, creativity, skill and passion for art and the process it takes to create a unique concept that will set it apart from everything else already on the market. Other sneaker customisers such as Simple Union, a handcraft brand that customises shoes and other accessories, go beyond just painting and airbrushing. “‘Enjoy Simplicity, Enjoy Life’ is the motto the brand follows’’, says artist and founder FK.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Putting a close focus on the materials is key to Simple Union’s unique designs, they combine traditional culture and craftsmanship with quality materials. The brand is also known for using Italian leather and rare fabrics from Japan, such as old Japanese Katazome, an ancient method of fabric dying, weaving and stenciling – often flowers and bird motifs – that dates back to the Meiji era of the late 1800s.

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Photo courtesy of Simple Union

Each design is an original concept that adds a bespoke touch that off-the-rack shoes can’t offer. But Simple Union also accepts commissions by customers, if both the artist’s style and customer’s taste are a good match. On some occasions, the brand would be approached to customise products for other brands and stores as part of a workshop experience or event.

Sustainable Spirit

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Photo courtesy of K!bo

Another brand that puts materials on the forefront of their products is pioneering sustainable sneaker brand K!BO. “The name K!BO means hope in Japanese”, says Natalie Chow, co-founder of the Hong Kong sustainable sneaker brand.

Adding a new line of products to their range, the footwear brand will be offering exciting new selections of customised sneakers to thrill fashionistas throughout summer. They will provide a range of limited-edition designs, as well as exciting customisation options that will allow customers the liberty to add their own touch of style to their bespoke footwear.

Photo courtesy of K!bo
Photo courtesy of K!bo

Expected to start with a HK$1280 price tag, the initial stages of the new line of products will offer customised pre-order options that will allow customers to get closely involved in the design process, such as including unique and fun patterns and selecting recycled leather with graphic prints, as a way to personalise their #GuiltFreeKicks to show off this summer.

 

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio, Photos courtesy of 199xCustom, Simple Union and K!bo)

Five reasons to buy from local coffee roasters and where to find them

Few things beat the pleasure of a morning cuppa, freshly roasted, grounded and brewed to rich, nutty perfection. Although a quick tap on a Nespresso machine could easily hit the right spot, there is something about fresh grounds that completes the blissful experience of a morning brew. Coffee roasters take raw coffee which comes in varying degrees of green and “cook” them in a roasting machine specially designed for coffee beans. Combining the perfect temperature and measurements of air, gas and time, roasteries are able to bring out the full, robust flavours of each coffee type. 

Sourcing from local roasteries across the city, these experts not only provide the freshest options of roasted coffees, but also provide top quality and a wide range of choices that are notches above those you would find at your neighbourhood supermarket.

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Making sure you always start your day right, Gafencu searched far and wide to find the local coffee roasteries to get your coffee beans freshly roasted and ensure you have your cuppa right. Check out our guide to the best local coffee roasters in the city.

1. Freshness

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To those uninitiated in the art of coffee making, many might not know that coffee is at its peak flavour between 3 days to 2 weeks after it’s been roasted. Which explains why store bought — no matter the grade, quality, origin and price, never seems to give you that same satisfaction and joy that a freshly roasted, ground cup of coffee does.

2. Quality

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(Photo courtesy of Coffee Roaster Asia)

Coffee making is a passion that gives and takes. To the coffee roasters, it is an art form, a combination of experience, expertise and calculative measurement that highlights the best flavour profile, aromatic notes and characteristics of each varietal type. To its customers, it is an aromatic pleasure and appreciation of quality and delicious notes that makes their day.

Much like sommeliers, coffee roasters use their knowledge of the wide range of variety, country of origin and altitudes, and source products small farmers that work hard to produce good quality coffee. These experts understand how best to roast the beans to bring out the full potential of each varietal — producing rich and balanced flavours.

 

Also Read: Ruling the Roast: Charting the rise of coffee culture around the world

3. Choices

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(Photo courtesy of Hazel & Hershey coffee roasters)

Offering more than just your typical Arabica and Robusta at your local supermarket, coffee roasters are just as passionate about their coffees as their drinkers. They source the best quality of coffee they can afford and import from a range of different countries. At your local coffee roastery will find a slew of choices that go beyond the milder Brazilian and Colombian options, such as the fruitier Ethiopian varietal or the richer Kenyan alternative. 

4. Expertise

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(Photo courtesy of Coffee Roasters Asia)

 

When you visit your local roastery, you will be able to experience different types or flavors of coffee that you might not otherwise be exposed to at your local Starbucks. And with so many choices to choose from, it can be overwhelming to pick out the right one to suit your palate. Fortunately, coffee roasters are knowledgeable in all things coffee, and will happily answer your brewing qualm, from brewing techniques to grind sizes and water ratio for particular brewing methods. 

5. Better for the environment

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Buying roasted coffee beans from local coffee roasteries are, not only a pleasure to drink, but it is also a great way to practice sustainability. The green at local coffee roasteries are roasted daily, some are roasted-to-order, and produced in small batches which helps reduce carbon footprint. You can also find certified Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance labels on some brands that ensures sustainable sourcing and productions. 

 

Also Read: Coveted Cuppas: The most expensive Chinese teas in the world

Where to get your fresh locally roasted coffee beans?

18 Grams 
18 Grams is Hong Kong’s premium specialty coffee company, Each coffee bean is grind upon order, ensuring maximum flavor from each type of coffee bean, they also offer coffee brewing equipment on our website. For more information: info@18grams.com. Good Luck Industrial Building, Kwun Tong. coffeeroasterylab.com

Coffee Roasters Asia
Coffee Roasters Asia sources high-quality green from coffee around the world. They offer a range of quality blends, single origin and premium coffee to choose from and frequently update their selections, providing customers a new flavour each time they return. Home delivery across the city is also available. For more information: (852) 9889 6155. Aberdeen Industrial Building, Aberdeen. coffeeroasters.com.hk

Hazel & Hershey Coffee Roasters
Hazel & Hershey is a certified Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance company. Exercising the practice of mindfully sourced beans, innovative coffee products and using pckaging materials such as 100% recyclable PE/EVOH coffee bags, their promotion of community and sustainable practices are central to its brand mission. Aside from coffee their online and retail stores also offer accessories for customers’ brewing needs. For more information: (852) 3106 0760 / (852) 9628 2468. Peel Street, Central. hazelnhershey.com

Cowbird Coffee
Most coffee lovers would have heard of % Arabica by now, but did you know that its Hawaii-originated beans are roasted locally in Lantau Island? Cowbird Coffee is a small batch artisan roastery that offers a roast-to-order service. For more information: hello@cowbirdcoffee.com. cowbirdcoffee.com

K-Town Roasters
Kennedy Town’s best kept secret is this hidden away homegrown K-Town Roasters. New to the scene this roastery only opened shop in 2021, offering locally crafted, carefully selected espresso blends and single origins that are freshly roasted in their Kennedy Town roastery. For more information: @ktownroastersktown.com.hk

 

Also Read: Locally Distilled: Have you tried Hong Kong’s hottest craft gins?

 

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare

 

There’s an exciting new entry into the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants guide that has gained much buzz since its opening a year ago. Wing restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Cheng of acclaimed French-Chinese restaurant VEA, is nestled on the 29th floor of The Wellington in Sheung Wan, just a floor below its acclaimed sister eatery VEA.

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Michelin star Chef Vicky Cheng

Having been trained in French techniques, Wing is a step outside of Cheng’s comfort zone, prompted by his journey of rediscovering his Chinese roots. Here, the menu is described as seasonal dining. By sourcing only the freshest and seasonal ingredients, the Hong Kong-born chef offers his patrons a rotation of the best ingredients for each season of the year. “This is my take on Chinese cuisine”, Cheng tells Gafencu. “We do what I like to call ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’. By respecting centuries of traditions and flavour combinations, but at the same time adding our own element to the dishes, we are able to create flavours of our own, and ultimately a cuisine of our own”.

“We do ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’…adding our own element to the dishes to create flavours of our own”

Without delay, we began with a line up of cold appetisers. The Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp was a deliciously tender and creamy bite with a gentle hint of spice, courtesy of the generous Yunnan chili garnished atop, while the Drunken South African Abalone was a sweeter follow up to contrast. Perfectly marinated with two different types of Chinese wine, the balance of sweet and savoury was a delight.

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French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat; Chili Shirako with Century Egg

To its side, was the French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat. Sprinkled with chicken skin crisps, this gave the dish a subtle yet noticeable dimension in texture and taste. Last in line from the appetisers was the Chili Shirako with Century Egg. Delighting with a custard-like texture and taste that paired perfectly well with the mild flavours of the soft-boiled century egg. The dish was brought together with a tantalising note thanks to the restaurant’s house-made Sichuan chilli sauce.

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Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables

Serving as a brief interim while we waited in anticipation for the second course was the Shanlinsi Oolong tea. Subtle with a fruity aftertaste, our palates were refreshed as we steadied ourselves for the Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables. Complementing the fatty, natural sweetness of the meat was a liberal bed of house-preserved vegetables and fresh scallions – giving the fish a unique aroma.

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Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar

Next to arrive was the Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar. Dry-aged for about three days, then glazed with sugar cane juice before finally smoked with dried sugar cane pulp, the result of this elaborate preparation is a decadently sweet and incredibly crispy skinned bird with juicy, tender meat that slid right off the bone.

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Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice

Not long after had we finished off the game on our plates did the next dish arrive, the Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice. The chef used two-head fish maw for the dish, which, to put in perspective, is thicker and more chewy than typical fish maw. Rich umami flavours exude throughout each component of the dish, from the fish maw that was braised in house-made abalone sauce to the morel mushroom rice that was elevated by the hint of earthy notes. When put together in a single bite, a seamless balance of texture and flavours are married in perfect harmony.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_ Osmanthus snow gum with coconut sorbet
Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet

To end on a refreshing note, the dessert arrived in the form of an Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet. We took our time savouring this sweet ending for as long as it lasted. The snow gum, infused with Osmanthus tea, resembled the unique texture of a bird’s nest, but left a satisfying swirl of floral notes on our palates. The coconut sorbet, on the other hand, added a creamy body to the dessert that was both sweet and refreshing. If there was anything we could have added, it would have been a second serving.

Wing. 29/F The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2711 0063. wingrestaurant.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Anna Flores of The Chaless Wellness and Beauty turns passion into success

Inspired by the warmth of cabins and chalets in the mountainous regions of Europe, Anna Flores brings over two decades of her wellness experience to Central’s buzziest urban sanctuary.

The Chaless Wellness and Beauty takes a contemporary approach. What inspired you to start this transformative beauty hub?
I’ve been in the wellness industry for over two decades now. From the moment I came to Hong Kong back in the ’90s and realised the potential of the beauty and wellness sector, I became actively involved in the spa business. The name Chaless, comes from the names of my three children, who bring immense love and joy in my life. I wanted the same love and light in my clients’ life as well.

Over the years, the concepts and foundation of beauty have evolved – its cleaner, gentler and more targeted now. My vision was to recreate a destination on the slow beauty lines and help my clients embrace the richness of massage and facials minus the harshness of fast treatments – and understand that skin health improves overall wellbeing.

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Anna Flores wearing bracelet by agnès b. Ring by Stéfère Jewelry; Embroidered cotton-poplin shirt by Totême, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER; Original distressed mid-rise straight-leg jeans by Totême, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER Heels by Aquazzura

What does wellness mean to you?
Wellness is a lot of things. It’s a holistic way of living, it’s about empowering us to look after themselves. It’s way beyond and deeper than makeup, skincare, or getting a massage; it’s the bond of self-care and self-love, of achieving an equilibrium of body, heart, mind and soul. That was the intention behind creating a wellness destination and not a beauty centre. I want our clients to relax, rejuvenate in this little oasis of zen and partake in the critical aspect of healing while they take care of the temple that is their body.

“Wellness is a lot of things. It’s a holistic way of living. It’s about empowering us to look after themselves and goes way beyond makeup and skincare”

How do you start your day?
I wake up and make up my bed. It’s important to begin the day with a tidy and structured frame of mind. A cup of coffee followed by morning exercise or simply stretching on busy days – it’s always good to carve out some ‘me time’ before my children wake up.

I have three kids. The eldest is in boarding school in England and the two little ones, six and eight years old are with me in Hong Kong. So, my routine really depends around them and whether they are at home or school. After tending to the family – if the spa is open – I will head over there and oversee the operations.

What’s the best part of your job?
Hands down it’s the people, my clients. I am gifted in looking after people, I love the customer service aspect of running a spa – right from listening to people, understanding their needs, having a tab on their feelings, and creating bespoke treatments. It’s a fulfilling aspect of my profession.

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Anna Flores wearing Bari cutout wool-canvas mini dress by Jacquemus, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER

What do you do to unwind?
I love being alone as much as I love being in the company of friends and family. Whether it’s taking time out to read, hike, or just sit with my phone in peace. It’s so enriching to carve out ‘me time’ to reflect and re-energise.

If I don’t have to attend to the children, I’ll happily come for a massage or a facial. Being in the spa industry, I am always surrounded by people. I love that, but at times I need a break to drown out the noise, be in a still environment and feel cared for. Living in the moment, actively savouring and stretching every minute is critical to me. It adds richness and value in my life.

You have flawless skin. Could you share with us what your skincare routine is like?
[laughs] It’s not perfect, but I understand the anatomy of the skin. I pamper it when it needs the touch, leave it alone when it needs to breathe. Cleansing, eye creams, serums, facial essence and sunscreen are my must-do steps every day. Using a face roller, gua sha (a traditional Chinese medicine practice) or any other tools are integral in flushing out the toxins and tightening the facial muscles.

There is no magic formula that will work overnight, even the best products take months to show results. You’ve got to work hard to maintain what you have and it begins with identifying effective, powerful ingredients tailored for your skin concerns. Sometimes you might have to try many different formulas to find a suitable one. But once you identify what works, be diligent in your routine and mindful of your gut health and stress levels. Afterall, your skin is a true reflection of your lifestyle. Make it shine.

“I love the customer service aspect of running a spa – right from listening to people to creating bespoke treatments. It’s a fulfilling aspect of my profession” 

What are the most common mistakes people make when it comes to skincare?
Understand the seasons and the changes they bring. Shake up the regimen accordingly otherwise your skin becomes used to the same ingredients rendering them ineffective over time. Invest in the right tools and products. They don’t have to be the most expensive, but the results from regularly using clean, targeted products are irrefutable. Remember to check the expiration date of your beauty products and clean beauty tools regularly to avoid bacterial build-up.

List five makeup products that can always be found in your handbag.
Reviving Marine Mist from Thalgo for a refreshing, remineralising skin boost; a plumping and a hydrating Lip Serum from Fresh; a good hand cream because our hands are always dry from sanitizers and constant cleansing; an eyeliner; and a bit of blush for a natural tint in the cheeks.

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Anna Flores wearing earrings by Chanel; Cuffs by Koket; Bahia draped knotted voile mini dress by Jacquemus, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER; Heels by Alexandra Neel

Opening a beauty business amid a pandemic is problematic. How did you manage the challenges of the last two years?
Back in January 2020, when the pandemic had just started, I eyed the current Aberdeen Street location – but with social restrictions at the time, and so much uncertainty on the horizon, I shelved the idea. In May 2021, with a strong belief in the city and the resilience of the people, I took the plunge and Chaless Wellness and Beauty opened its doors in August 2021. We’ve faced multiple Covid-related setbacks. It was very challenging but much like the spirit of Hong Kong, each time we bounce back stronger.

It wasn’t an easy time. While the beauty and fitness industry were shut down multiple times, we were paying salaries and rents, but our clients were very supportive and loyal. We are positive about the government’s move from hereon. Fingers crossed!

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Anna Flores wearing earrings, necklace and bracelet by ARAO; Bracelet by The 5th C; Dynamo stretch-organic cotton jumpsuit by Rivet Utility, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER; Heels by Le Marais

What’s your mantra for the year ahead?
Take a leap of faith. In my view, being afraid is a positive thing, it implies you’re aware of the consequences. Trust the process and don’t be held back by doubts. If it doesn’t work out then it’s a lesson, if it does then it calls for a celebration.

Though the fifth wave is behind us, Hong Kong is still on shaky ground. Could you offer any advice for someone starting out in the wellness business?
Understand finances because cash is king. Without financial resources it’s impossible to invest in talent, build a brand, let it grow and expect returns.

Thank You.

 

(Interview by: Nikita Mishra; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Jackie Chan; Hair and Makeup: Owen Ko; Venue: The Chaless Wellness and Beauty; Nails: The Chaless Wellness and Beauty)

Gaia Ristorante continues to impress with elevated Italian cuisine

If there was ever a Hong Kong locale that called to mind the charm of a Roman piazza, it is surely the open plaza abutting Central’s Grand Millennium Plaza. How fortuitous, then, that nestled amid the lush foliage and grandiose staircases lies one of the city’s most iconic Italian restaurants – Gaia Ristorante. Having first opened its doors just over two decades ago, this grand dame of the SAR’s F&B scene has more than held its own through the never-ending waves of new eateries that have risen and fallen and risen again across the intervening years.

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So, in a city where restaurants open and close at the drop of a hat, what’s the secret to Gaia’s outstanding longevity? “While our offerings are not that different from many other Italian eateries in the city, after more than two decades, we’ve put together a very solid offering. We focus on fresh ingredients and classic recipes that have been tried and tested with discerning diners over the years,” explains owner Pino Piano. “More importantly, we listen to our customers’ feedback. Some of our patrons have been coming back to us for two generations now, and if they’d like something tweaked slightly, we are more than happy to accommodate them.”

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Affable and charming, Naples-born Piano is a stalwart of the industry who has seen the evolution of the city’s dining scene first-hand. Recalling Gaia’s early days, he says: “Things were totally different when we first began. We were the first restaurant to introduce al-fresco dining to the central business district. Up until that point, outdoor dining could only be found farther afield in Sai Kung or the outlying islands.”

 

Also Read: Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

 

Eager to sample the fare that has enchanted the city since 2001, we begin our tasting with two appetisers – Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia and Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga. The former is an ancient Roman-Jewish dish of flowering artichoke hearts that are boiled then deep-fried. Crisp on the outside and deliciously succulent on the inside, it’s an enticing opening act. The latter starter of fried calamari and red prawns is equally delicious. Each morsel here is lightly battered and fried before being sprinkled with anchovy salt, with an optional squeeze of lemon deftly cutting through the inherent oiliness of the dish.

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Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti

Continuing with the seafood motif, our next course of Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti arrives tableside. Topped with a juicy, generously sized Mediterranean red king prawn, the underlying spaghetti is cooked to al-dente perfection and ladened with smaller shelled prawns as well. The sauce, too, merits particular mention, with the tanginess and slight piquancy of the spicy cherry tomatoes serving as the perfect foil for the oceanic accents of the dish.

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Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso

Onto the mains, we begin with the decadent Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso, featuring a sliced slab of wagyu sirloin accompanied by asparagus and Romanesco broccoli. Cows at the Mayura farm in Australia are given a chocolate-laden diet that is said to enhance the tenderness and flavour of their beef. Umami-laden and melt-in-your-mouth soft, this is guaranteed to be a hit with any meat-minded diner.

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Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina

With our waistlines getting dangerously tight, the final course hoves into view: a beautiful plate of Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina (an oven-baked sea bass accompanied by lemon and chives). The fish in question is, as Piano explains, first deboned then coated in a salt-and-egg white crust before being baked in the oven – a deft move that sees all its inherent flavours retained. Once unpacked, a dash of lemon and a sprinkling of chopped chives are all the garnishes required. A delicious blend of crunchy skin and fall-off-the-bone tender flesh, it’s small wonder that this signature dish has been on the menu since Gaia’s inception.

Gaia Ristorante. Unit 01-05, G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Central. (852) 2167 8200

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

 

Also Read: Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Stately Home: Luxury envelopes this 6,300sq.ft penthouse in Cyberport, Pok Fu Lam

Over the last two years, most of us in the city have kept ourselves safely grounded. While home interior trends have embraced minimalist aesthetics and influences from nature and wellness, there are those who have missed wallowing in the lap of luxury on vacation at five-star hotels. And if one sought to draw inspiration from a home that splendidly emulates the essence of lavish interiors and refined aesthetics, this 6,300sq.ft penthouse in Residence Bel-Air would fit the bill.

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6,300sq.ft penthouse in Bel-Air dressed in designer upholstery and sumptuous marble tiles

Stretched over two storeys, the sleek abode is perched atop phase three of Cyberport’s massive residential complex, one of the most prestigious estates in the city and widely touted as the ultimate in luxury living. It boasts stunning architecture, vast interiors, gorgeous sky gardens and breathtaking panaromic ocean views.

Artful Interiors

The apartment is home to a successful semi-retired businessman, his spouse and two sons whose vision was to adopt the ethos of a luxury hotel. Realising this aspiration was interior designer Leslie Lam, Director of Primocasa, who walked us through its myriad high points.

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A grand spiral staircase is made the focal point of the entryway

The introduction starts at the entrance, where we are greeted by a grandiose spiral staircase to the right and radiant glows of natural light and boundless ocean views that pour in through floor-to-ceiling windows. Astoundingly high ceilings and Italian marble floors dazzle in white, while the feature wall that runs along the side of the huge open-plan living area is plastered with sumptuous royal blue leather.

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White marble floor and a blue feature wall echoes the color palate of the view outside

This combination of blue and white echoes the soothing shades of the ocean and sky beyond, infusing a sense of tranquillity to the space. Thus, the homeowner’s personality and taste can resonante through vibrant décor and bold details against a backdrop of purity and simplicity.

As an avid collector of art, he displays his sensibilities through an ever evolving and rotating display of works by artists from all over the world. “[Dipping into] this collection gave me a wider range of options to choose from when selecting pieces to highlight each area in the home,” says Lam. “For example, bold colours such as red and sculptural installations in copper and chromatic hues were used to contrast the simple whites and distinguish different zones.”

 

Also Read: Home Couture: Upscale living in the heart of Hong Kong

 

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The master bedroom is dressed in plush fabric feature wall and designer carpet and upholstery for a noble ambience.

Throughout the home, Fendi carpeting and furniture from Bentley Home and other luxury brands crafted in Italy reflect the master of the house’s penchant for stylish décor. Fixtures crafted by Lam and his talented team, meanwhile, such as the TV wall that separates the living and dining areas, and the display shelves in the study that perfectly frame the garden, add a regal touch. These elegant burnished black panels and splashes of champagne gold provide elegant contrast to the expanses of white marble.

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Marble tiles pave both levels of the home, including the bathroom floor and wall

In a recurring theme, marble tiles pave both levels of the home, including the bathrooms. However, within the more intimate dwellings of the home, wooden flooring is used to convey a warmer touch. At the couple’s request, the master bedroom resembles a hotel presidential suite, incorporating a plush azure fabric feature wall, as well as a blue carpet, upholstery and linen for a noble ambience.

 

Also Read: Master of Light: Home tour of a three-storey duplex in Hong Kong

 

Stairway to Heaven

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Measuring in 4.2 metres, high ceilings are a key attraction in this luxurious apartment

Reaching an incredible 4.2 metres, high ceilings are a key attraction of the apartment – a perk in Hong Kong reserved for the most luxurious of abodes. Taking full advantage of this architectural generosity, Lam emphasises the stature with false ceilings and golden steel trims that draw the eye and add perceived depth. A striking 1.8-metre Swarovski crystal chandelier that hangs above the round dining table also aptly underscores the immense height.

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White marble is fitted into the spiral staircase, accentuated by black marble borders

Another clear highlight is the spiral staircase that seamlessly connects the duplex layout with matching premium white marble. Accentuated by black marble borders, it recalls the aesthetics of grand European hotels. Impressively fitted curved glass-panelled banisters flank the length of the steps. Lam describes this focal point as an art piece in its own right because of the time, effort and difficult technique required for its creation.

The team devoted almost a year to completing this one feature alone, a spectacular substitute for the narrow L-shaped staircase that originally stood next to the kitchen. Government approval had to be obtained for its construction, and each component had to be conceptualised, designed and finished to precise measurements. But the feat was worthwhile given the magnificent outcome.

Garden on High

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A British-inspired cigar lounge with a fireplace offers the owner a respite from the bustle of the city

Further underlining the indulgence of lavish comfort under one roof are quiet recesses to enjoy daily pleasures. These include an idyllic green garden, where breakfast, the morning paper and glistening views of Waterfall Bay are often savoured, and a British-inspired cigar lounge with a fireplace.

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A pair of hand-crafted display cabinets perfectly frame the garden outside

Bedecked with Italian furniture, verdant greenery and pristine white wooden floors that continue the aesthetics of the interior, the rooftop garden is undeniably the perfect, relaxed viewpoint to bask in the sun. But thanks to its westerly aspect, it is the evenings that offer the most resplendent scenery, an awe-inspiring display of pale tints of orange fading into the blue beyond. Thanks to the mass of windows along the width of the apartment, this gradient palette of the sun dipping into the horizon can be admired from all three bedrooms, too.

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Breathtaking views of the ocean and sunset from the rooftop garden

Drawing inspiration from extravagant hotels, this home ticks all the boxes of a regal lifestyle. Embellished in rich colours, fitted with premium materials, dotted with designer upholstery, adorned with sophisticated art, and showcasing a majestic chandelier – here lies the epitome of luxe living.

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio; Photos: Primocasa Interiors Ltd.)

 

Also Read: Home Tour: Inside a luxurious 3,000 sq.ft Mid-levels duplex

 

Hong Kong reopens to non-residents, top attractions to visit

Hong Kong has finally reopened its borders to international travellers though flight circuit breakers and seven days of compulsory quarantine will not jump-start tourism right away, the move is definitely a big step in the right direction. If you are visiting, (the summer is currently glorious!) we have compiled a list of unique, must-see attractions while in town. 

1. Victoria Peak Garden

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Tramming all the way to The Peak is always a must for every visitor in Hong Kong, however if you’re looking for a respite from the bustling crowds and prefer a moment of calm with the family, Victoria Peak Garden, just a 10-minute walk from the summit and main attraction, is just the place to go.

Formerly the Mountain Lodge of the Governor of Hong Kong, which was demolished in 1946, its Chinese-style garden remains as one of the most scenic and lush parks in the city. Renovated in 2015, the pavilion is the perfect spot for families to picnic and little ones to run free while appreciating the city’s colonial heritage. The Gardens feature a vast open space and ample grassy lawns, and Victorian-style structures, such as gazebos on colonnades, a water fountain and benches that offer resting areas for visitors.  

2. Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

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Hong Kong is home to hundreds of centuries-old Chinese temples and monasteries that are heavily trafficked by the city’s seven million residents and passing tourists, namely the 18,000 square-metre Wong Tai Sin Temple. However, one MTR stop over, just a stone’s throw away from the high-rise residential buildings and bustling highways of Diamond Hill is the serene Chi Lin Nunnery — one of the largest Buddhist temples in the city and the largest handmade wooden building in the world. 

Established in 1934, it features an impressive interlocking system that — believe it or not — was built without any use of nails. Opposite the temple, the Nan Lian Garden is a tranquil resting area to appreciate the quiet sounds of nature away from the busy city. The complex houses 16 halls of different Buddha statues, as well as a school, library, dentist and multiple residences for the elderly.

Also Read: Six beautifully unique temples to visit in Hong Kong

3. Po Toi Island

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Located at the southeastern tip of Hong Kong Island, just 3km from Aberdeen and Stanley, Po Toi Island boasts beautiful natural rock formations, gorgeous views of the Tai Wan Bay, and one of the best seafood the city has to offer right by the pier and Po Toi Beach. 

This underrated and lesser traveled island offers a picturesque destination for an ocean getaway. Whether you are travelling by the service kaito (small ferry) or mooring your own sloop, take in the breathtaking sights of the island’s natural rock formations and ocean views by trekking along the island’s moderately easy trail along the shore. Finally, a trip here would not be complete without a stop at Ming Kee Seafood restaurant — lauded by the city’s gourmand for its excellent seafood. 

4. Mini Great Wall of Cheung Chau Island

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Another island worth a visit is Cheung Chau. An easy stroll along the paved trails that line the idyllic coastline leads visitors to either the North Pavillion or the path towards the Mini Great Wall.

While the former serves gorgeous panoramic views of the pristine South China Sea and several other Instagram-worthy landmarks along the way, the lesser trafficked trail to Mini Great Wall is the perfect opportunity to let kids experience nature and all its natural beauty. As part of the Cheung Chau Family Trail, the path is an easier alternative but is equally scenic. The trail ends at the less crowded Kwun Yam Beach where the local-favourite seven-decade Hing Kee bar serves fresh mocktails and cold bears by the shore.  

And if you’re looking to take a piece of Hong Kong home with you, the island is also famed for its a handmade craft stores and specialty coffee. Those shopping for novelty will surely be keen.  

Also Read: Island Getaway: A quick sight-seeing guide to Cheung Chau

5. Shun Sum Yuen Farm

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Photo Credit: travelwithangel.com

Who doesn’t enjoy the sight of sunflowers on a sunny day? Tucked away in San Tin, Yuen Long is one of the city’s best kept secret, the stunning Shun Sum Yuen Farm.

Giving off total summer vibes, the farm — spanning 7,000 sq.ft — grows fields of yellow, gold, orange, and even red sunflowers, that come from Japanese and Dutch origins and blooms from June to August. It may be a little out of the way, but it will surely be the highlight of your summer as you walk through a field of towering sunflowers. 

Other Unique Things To Do: 

Explore the city’s growing craft breweries and distilleries

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Photo Credit: Young Masters

As part of the ever growing micro-cultures in the city, craft beers and spirits has been experiencing a boom among locals and expats. From the likes of the pioneer Hong Kong Beer Co., and the well-established Young Master Brewery to homegrown 100% locally produced premium craft gin distillery Two Moons Distillery, there are plenty to choose from when picking a place to book a tour and sample the city’s unique twist on your favorite tipple. 

Create your own pearl jewellery

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Photo Credit: Hong Kong Pearl Cultivation Association

The city’s only pearl guided tour and pearl workshop, the Hong Kong Pearl Cultivation Association organises weekly fun, educational workshop that teaches visitors about the secrets of pearls and sharing their knowledge of 4,000-year old pearl history and culture as an effort to make pearls more accessible to the public, while raising the awareness of sustainable development as part of the city’s revitalisation of the fishery and agriculture industry.

The workshops allows participants to shuck their own farm-grown Hong Kong Akoya Pearls, design, create and decorate their own pearl accessories. 

Bid farewell to the iconic Star Ferry

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Photo Credit: The Star Ferry

The iconic Star Ferry ride, though not  unknown to tourist, is one that should not be missed this time around. One of the city’s most popular attraction, the scenic ferry ride across Victoria Harbour with the view the city’s skyline in the backdrop may be one of the last locals and visitors will experience.

Due to the city’s 2019 political unrest, followed by almost three years of Covid-19 pandemic, the ferry company has struggled to keep up its services in the face of dwindling crowds and tourist, and may sadly suspend its journey after 142 years in service. 

 

Also Read: Hong Kong: Natural wonders you didn’t know existed

Wine & Investments: An interview with Auctioneer Simon Tam

Food lover, passionate scuba diving instructor, wine expert, Christie’s alumni, founder of Aeos Auctions – Simon Tam is a man of varied experiences and a wealth of knowledge. We caught up with the seasoned auctioneer to learn about his craft and relish in his lively character…

Was there one particular glass or moment that sparked your love of wine?
I come from a family of restaurateurs and grew up in our restaurants in Australia – good food, good wines, good company, laughter and conversations were the norm for me. I often thought to myself, ‘What an interesting industry to get into.’ My surroundings made me adventurous with food and wine. I love trying new tastes, and the sights, sounds and smell of a working kitchen have always fascinated me – they still somehow evoke the deepest part of my memories. When you’re surrounded by food and wine as a child, it leaves an impression.

Infamously, I not only tried wine for the first time at 13, but also spiked it with Coca-Cola! It was the early ’80s, and I happened to ‘borrow’ a bottle of 1961 Château Lafite from my mother’s cellar and had my first sip. I instantly loved the smell, though not so much the taste. The moment I added Coke, I knew it was going to be my life-long poison [laughs].

I was in high school when I first made wine. My friends and I had a pact that in the winter holidays we would teach skiing and in summer we’d make wine. That was a turning point for me, and I haven’t looked back; I think wine is the only thing I know.

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How did your journey evolve from opening Hong Kong’s first wine school back in 1996 to founding Aeos Auctions last year?
Amazing. The wine industry is a melting pot of generous, kind, and funny people from different cultures and parts of the world. I’ve been very fortunate with mentors in my career and my decades of professional experience which have prepared me for running an auction house – it’s been a fulfilling, fun learning journey.

Tell us about your 10 years at Christie’s and how this shaped you today as an auctioneer?
[In 2010] I was the first Chinese appointed as the Head of Wine at Christie’s in Hong Kong. I started with the China market, which was growing rapidly in the fine-wine sector; it was a great honour to be heading the ever-expanding China team, and then my role grew to head wine for the whole of Asia.

As an organisation, Christie’s is amazing – the client service experience is second to none, people are passionate about their jobs, and there’s an incredible amount of knowledge and expertise in all departments. I am grateful for the rich learning environment I got to be in. I discovered that the business of auctions is exhilarating – it gave me butterflies each time the gavel came pounding down on the podium.

What are the best as well as the worst aspects of your profession?
The best aspects of the wine and auction industries are the people – the passion, the motivation that drives people to understand, taste and collect wine is exemplary. It doesn’t get mundane – no two days are the same; there’s always something new to learn and some of the best, most colourful and kindest people I’ve met in life are wine lovers.
The worst part, I would say, is an empty bottle [laughs]. But there’s always another one…

“There’s always something new to learn [in the wine industry] and some of the best, most colourful and kindest people I’ve met in life are wine lovers”

Any underrated wines which people should know about and appreciate?
Now, I am tasting and drinking a lot of New Zealand Pinot Noir – it’s one of my favourite grapes; Sauvignon Blanc may be New Zealand’s calling card, but the country has built a formidable reputation for handling this Burgundy grape remarkably well. Winemakers there have been mastering this fickle grape from more than 20 years, and I am absolutely smitten. The region’s cool climate gives an impressive and eclectic depth, purity, freshness, complexity and exoticness to the variety.

You’ve been in the industry for more than 30 years. Can you reveal the best business advice you’ve ever received?
I’ve been mentored by several people at different times in my career, and everyone had something valuable to say, but the advice that stood out for me was from my mother. She said, ‘Treat everyone the same way – a janitor or a CEO.’ That’s the most beautiful life lesson for me; when you are capable of doing anything in life, the least you can do is treat people with kindness. It has certainly helped me make a lot of genuine friends in and out of this industry.

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Jacket, button-up shirt, pants and shoes by Brunello Cucinelli

What denotes a fantastic food and wine pairing?
Now we’re talking! I grew up in an environment of food, wine and laughter, but I took it ahead and decided to explore how Asian food pairs with wine – an Indian sabzi, Thai green curry, Vietnamese pho, chilli-laced noodles… Asian food runs a gamut of flavours, and the standard wine rules don’t always apply. Sometimes red meat and red wine work, sometimes white meat and white wines work, but the world is so much more diverse than that.

Some of my pairings are unorthodox – I love spicy food and instead of drowning out the chilli, I want the wine to exaggerate the drama. If I wanted my wine to dull or flatten the spice, I might as well have bland food, no? I also feel that the finest food and wines should be reserved for the highlight moments of your life, so for weekends and regular get-togethers find wines that fit your lifestyle and match the occasion.

“Some of my pairings are unorthodox – I love spicy food and instead of drowning out the chilli, I want the wine to exaggerate the drama”

Since you’re so passionate about food and wine, is opening a restaurant in the pipeline?
Hospitality is in my blood and I love the industry, but much to my parents’ disappointment, none of their three boys carried on the family business. I like the idea of having my own restaurant, but it’s way too much hard work – whenever everyone else is chilling and having their downtime, like Christmas or New Year, you’re working. I’ve lived that life and made a conscious decision to have some balance.

Tell us about your other passions.
That would be underwater photography and scuba diving. I am an accomplished scuba diving instructor but, wait for it, I can’t swim. I am extremely skilled in water; I know my buoyancy, but I just can’t swim long laps. Being underwater is paradise – it’s such a thrilling and a humbling experience; a true realisation that the universe is majestic and you’re a tiny, tiny part of it. Both underwater photography and scuba diving bring balance and a diverse perspective to my above-ground life.

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What brings you happiness in life?
Laughing with my son. He’s 15-years-old, remarkably intelligent – I can’t take credit for that – has a very good sense of humour and is a gorgeous human being. I just love being with him, laughing with him, and we have a delicious time together.

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Jacket, button-up shirt, pants and shoes by Brunello Cucinelli

What are your vices?
I can’t be left alone in a supermarket – I just can’t be trusted with a wallet and a shopping cart! I am an obsessive, impulsive kitchen and gadget shopper. I absolutely love to cook and entertain – in fact, I eat out only for work purposes – so I cannot do without a fully functional pantry. And when I’m in a supermarket, there’s always this urge to buy extra for dinner with friends, or an impromptu party at home…

If you could have any wine with any cuisine tonight, what would it be?
I would drink my own wine. I made it before leaving Australia and my godparents have kept a stock, pair it with my godmother’s Brien Stew and Suet pudding. It’s outrageously delicious! Reliving my childhood, my happiest days, while sipping my own wine – now that’s home for me.

Thank you.

 

(Interview by: Nikita Mishra; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Kes Lei Venue: Aeos Auctions Office)

Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.

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Also Read: Japanese-Italian on your mind? Read our review of Pazzi Isshokenmai

This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.

The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.

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Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.

 

Also Read: Caviar etiquette done right

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Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.

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Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.

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Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.

gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance 1

Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”

Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.

Clarence. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 3568 1397. clerancehk.com

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

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