37 Steakhouse & Bar: Sumptuous steaks and stunning vistas atop The Peak

Perched atop one of Hong Kong’s most iconic and stunning destinations – the Victoria Peak – comes a new meat-minded dining concept from hospitality group The Food Story. Following the successful launches of a series of new dining destinations, including Causeway Bay-based Wagyu Vanne and Sensu by Gosango, its latest offering comes in the form of a stunning 7,000sq.ft specialty steak restaurant in the recently-refurbished Peak Galleria – 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

Designed by award-winning Japanese designer Yasumichi Morita, the contemporary wood-dominant space is punctuated with oak, brass and cowhide, replete with floor-to-ceiling windows that show off its picturesque views to perfection. 37 Steakhouse & Bar is also home to a treasure trove of fine wines and premium sakes, including an impressive sampling of vintages from Sawaya Matsumoto, the renowned 230-year-old Japanese brewery. The true stars of the show, though, are undoubtedly its wide array of high-end steak offerings. Ranging from USDA Prime Black Angus and Korean Hanwoo selections to its rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu – lauded in Japan as one of the finest, most marbled beefs.

Our own tasting experience, however, began with Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio and Japanese Scallop Carpaccio. Succulently fresh and brimming with delicate flavours, these appetisers showcased the very best of the raw seafood cuisine on offer at 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

Next up was the Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise, subtly sauced to highlight the palate-pleasing textures of the raw ground beef. Enhancing its appeal even further was the side serving of a cheese crisp, topped with dollops of chopped raw onions, pickles and even a serving of luxurious caviar. Each pairing offered diners a different end note to every bite savoured.

Then the true crowed-pleasers arrived tableside – a series of the restaurant’s signature steaks, including a rib-eye, a striploin and the long-awaited Hiyama A5 Wagyu. With each prime cut cooked to medium-rare perfection in its prized Spanish Josper charcoal grill, every slice of the meaty melt-in-your-mouth morsels were inhaled in short order, with nary a bite left in sight within minutes.

*Black Truffle with Mashed Potato & Slow Cooked Egg*

With our belts straining at the waist, we were hard-pressed to find space for the concluding dishes that hoved into view. Thankfully finding that last bit of appetite, we then dug into the creamy goodness that was the Black Truffle with Mashed Potato & Slow Cooked Egg (a dreamy concoction that should be a main dish in its own right) and the Sea Urchin & Crab Meat Barley Risotto, a mouth-watering umami-packed flavour bomb that served as the perfect end note to our delicious tasting experience.

37 Steakhouse & Bar. Shop 102-103, 1/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak. (852) 2885 3320.

The Chinese Library introduces the art of Dao Yi in new summer dishes

The Chinese Library, set in the beautiful cultural hub of Tai Kwun and opened less than a year ago, has already cemented its reputation for offering premier Oriental fare of the finest quality. Now, the new Aqua Group-owned eatery is launching whole selection of new dishes just in time for summer, courtesy of Executive Chef Junno Li’s singularly impressive Dao Yi (loosely translating to the art of slicing) skills.

The Chinese Library - Chilled “Jade flower” in green Sichuan pepper essence — Chilled “Jade flower” in green Sichuan pepper essence

Immediately after being seated in the sumptuous dinery, our tasting experience kicked off with a special demonstration of Chef Li’s Dao Yi skill as he sliced wafer-thin radish dumpling skins and carved up an intricate, interlocking Jade flower chain with just his knife. That same preternatural predilection for ultra-thin knifery was showcased once more when the first appetiser, Chilled “Jade flower” in green Sichuan pepper essence, arrived tableside. The carving of the Jade flower transformed the entire mouthfeel of the dish, adding a delicious crunch to its delicate yet mouth-tingling flavours.

The Chinese Library - Marinated geoduck & Jade flower in sesame oil dressing — Marinated geoduck & Jade flower in sesame oil dressing

Next up was Marinated geoduck & Jade flower in sesame oil dressing, with thin slices of geoduck served sashimi-style atop a bed of cucumber and Jade flower. Clearly a dish created to revive diners from the summer heat, it was, at once, refreshingly crisp and succulently smooth. The final appetiser hoved into view in the form of the Crystal melon dumpling with Kung Fu teapot chicken consomme. While the prawn-filled morsels were delicious in their own right, it was the flavour-packed chicken soup that truly stole the show.

The Chinese Library - Crystal melon dumpling with Kung Fu teapot chicken consomme — Crystal melon dumpling with Kung Fu teapot chicken consomme

Two main courses then arrived tableside, but perhaps the one that truly stood out was the impressive Salt-baked meringue free-range whole chicken arrived tableside. A modern interpretation of the classic Beggar’s Chicken dish, at first glance, it looked just like a meringue. Once the salt crust had been broken, though, what lay inside was a perfectly-baked chicken served with glutinous rice and lotus bulbs, and enhanced further with notes of star anise. All in all, it’s a sure crowd-pleaser for anyone with a love of umami.

The Chinese Library - Salt-baked meringue free-range whole chicken — Salt-baked meringue free-range whole chicken

Check out these all-new dishes at The Chinese Library starting 1 July.

Sampling the new seasonal tasting menu at The Flying Elk

It’s been a few months since we last sampled the delicious Nordic fare at The Flying Elk, the Hong Kong eatery masterminded by three Michelin-starred Stockholm-born superchef Björn Frantzén, and already it seems the posh Scandinavian restaurant has something new up its sleeve. We’re speaking, of course, about its all-new seasonal tasting menu.

The Flying Elk Chicken Croquettes — Chicken Croquettes

Kicking off the six-course line-up was Chicken Croquettes, bite-size balls filled with creamy chicken and shiitake mushroom, complemented with shimeji mushrooms and a delicious parsley emulsion dipping sauce. Next to the table was another appetiser, the Oyster “Rockefeller”, with a generously portioned oyster topped with a rich cheese and placed atop a bed of spinach hitting all the right umami notes.

The Flying Elk Roasted Scallops — Roasted Scallops

Scarcely had we finished when the Roasted Scallop, one of the signature dishes at The Flying Elk, arrived. A contrast of textures and flavours, the crispy potato flakes and truffle-enriched scrambled egg acted as the perfect foil for the succulent scallop. Without pausing for breath, we then dug into the White Asparagus. Obviously created with the vegetable aficionado in mind, delicate slices of the legume were surrounded in a smorgasbord of peas, pistachio, curried onions and herbs and liberally garnished with a saffron beurre blanc sauce. While the visual effect was stunning, the dish proper was slightly overwhelming, with its many components fighting for dominance with every bite.

The Flying Elk White Asparagus — White Asparagus

The main course – Ox Cheeks “48H” – though, more than redeemed the experience. Here, every morsel of the generous portion of ox cheek had a heavenly melt-in-your-mouth texture guaranteed to thrill any meat-minded diner. The brussels sprouts and pickled onions, meanwhile, lent added dimensions of tartness and crunch, with the sweet caramelised onion velouté drawing the whole dish together.

The Flying Elk Blood Orange Sorbet — Blood Orange Sorbet

Though we were well and truly satiated at this point, we just had to sample the grand finale, the beautifully hued Blood Orange Sorbet. Tart yet sweet, it offered the perfect counterpoint to the heaviness of the dishes preceding it, an effect heightened by the added crunch of caramelised hazelnuts.

From start to finish, the new seasonal menu perfectly showcases the flexibility and wide appeal of Scandinavian cuisine, while also highlighting the finesse with which The Flying Elk translates traditional themes into contemporary plates. All in all, it was a wholly enjoyable experience, and one equally suited for a romantic date night or a casual catch-up with loved ones.

The new six-course tasting menu at The Flying Elk is priced at HK$595 per person, with the option of a Swedish Beer pairing for HK$265 per person and a wine pairing option at HK$500 per person also on offer.

The Flying Elk. 2F Wyndam Mansion, 32 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2898 3788.

Rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu now available at newly-open Wagyu Vanne

If you haven’t heard of Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu beef, you’re probably not alone. However, while its reputation may not yet have reached Hong Kong’s shores, it is renowned in its homeland of Japan as being one of the finest sources of beef, with its marbled structure and melt-in-your-mouth flavours placing it firmly on the to-nosh list of any beef aficionado. The good news, though, is that this rare meat is finally available in the city, courtesy of the recently-opened Wagyu Vanne.

Located in Causeway Bay’s Tower 535, the swanky new cuisinary is wholly-dedicated to all things beef. The brainchild of famed Japanese celebrity chef Vanne Kuwahara, this intimate venue – whose interiors include a dedicated Hiyama Wagyu beef wall display – offers a uniquely Western interpretation of the traditional Japanese yakiniku experience.

On the occasion of our pre-opening visit to Wagyu Vanne, the tasting experience kicked off in fine style with the Fresh Chopped Tomato Salad, a refreshing palate cleanser that served as the perfect opening act for the dishes to follow. Next, we sampled two appetisers, the A5 Wagyu Toast and a piece of Wagyu Sushi with Sea Urchin, both pleasingly bite-sized and packed with umami accents.

Then came the first true yakiniku experience, a sampling of the Hiyama A5 Wagyu sirloin, grilled to perfection table-side by a dedicated yakiniku specialist. Smooth and succulent, the fabulously-textured morsel simply burst with flavour, leaving us yearning for more.

Scarcely had we blinked when the next dish – Wagyu Daily Special in “Shabu Shabu” Style with Truffle, arrived at the table. A delightfully interactive plate, the slice of beef was first swirled in a shabu shabu broth before being placed lovingly atop an egg yolk and topped generously with shavings of black truffle. It is then up to the diner to stir the mixture until a soft foam appears, before tucking into the deliciously creamy concoction.

Next up was one of Chef Vanne’s innovative East-meets-West creations – the Wagyu Pappardelle Bolognese. Here, the Wagyu beef was transformed into a true-to-grandma’s-original-recipe bolognese sause that paired wonderfuly with the al dente homemade pappardelle pasta.

To end this scrumptious meal, the Wagyu Vanne chef opted for subtlety over showiness with a Homemade Yuzu Sorbet. Served in a small glass – just the right portion, considering our already-tightened beltlines – the tartness of the yuzu sorbet acted as a delicious digestif to cleanse the strong flavours of the preceding beef dishes, and the perfect conclusion to a truly gastronomic meal.

Japanese Celebrity Chef Vanne Kuwahara helms the newly-open Wagyu Vanne

Wagyu Vanne by Gosango. 1/F, Tower 535, No. 535 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay. (852) 2885 0533.

The Flying Elk: Uncompromising Nordic fare sets out to woo the cuisine-curious

Apparently the kind of stealth cuisine that has long ducked the fine-dining radar of even the Fragrant Harbour’s boldest big eaters, it seems that Nordic fare might have, at last, come in from the cold. Until recently solely synonymous with the make-do meatballs of Swedish self-assembly sofa retailers, sumptuous Scandinavian-style suppers are finally on offer at a high-end Hong Kong dinery. And it doesn’t seem a moment too soon.

Given Hong Kong’s renowned appetite for menus of a more maverick nature, it’s no surprise that The Flying Elk – an unashamed Nordic noshery – has found a ready welcome amid the hotpot houses and bijou bistros of downtown Central. An admittedly novel notion, it arrives on the city’s nightlife (and lunch life) scene courtesy of Maximal Concepts – the SAR-based hospitality group behind Mott 32 and Brickhouse, to name but two – and Björn Frantzén, the redoubtable three Michelin-starred Stockholm-born superchef.

Cards on the table, this isn’t actually the first time Frantzén has tempted hungry Hongkongers with his own brand of Stockholm home-cooking. Indeed, it was just over two years ago that Sheung Wan-set Frantzén’s Kitchen opened its doors, a dining spot rightly famed for its Nordic-Asian fusion fare. The key difference with his latest venture, though, is that it makes no concession for local tastes, defiantly serving solely Scandinavian dishes in an ambiguously authentic Nordic style.

Even the name of his new establishment hints at his unwillingness to compromise – a native of the forests of Sweden, the mythical flying elk could neither be captured nor tamed. Indeed, a similarly Nordic defiance permeates the restaurant that bears the beast’s name, with even its log cabin stylings more than hinting that this is not just another fad-focussed downtown dinery.

Charged with maintaining that authenticity while Frantzén is away tending his global interests is his protégé and long-term collaborator, Chef Jim Löfdahl. As bullish as his boss when it comes to his commitment to delivering top-class cuisine time after time, he says: “Fine dining is really cooking taken to the next level. To be able to perform in that kind of environment, you need to be able to push yourself every day and to always be on top of your game.”

Keen to determine whether there’s more to their menu than just Swedish sweet talk, we opted to commence our contemplation of the comestibles on offer with the Roasted Scallops, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. A compelling combination of scrambled egg, truffles, crispy potatoes and scallops, all atop a warm layer of beurre noisette, as a statement of intent, it’s hard to fault.

Next up was the Roasted Beetroots – presented astride a spinach-and-watercress bed – a dash of almond and truffle vinaigrette provided a suitably piquant counterpoint. The standout here, though, was the cream of Jerusalem artichoke, which underpinned the whole of this vegetarian delight.

With the appetisers more than passing muster, it was then on to the Poached Cod. This proved a dish so impressively prepared and so delightfully delivered that it left us yearning for just one more dollop of its subtly lemon-flavoured onion cream glaze.

While not wanting to belittle any of the taste bud titillations that preceded it, just about everything paled in comparison to the Venison victorious, the main course nonpareil. Perhaps as a sign of just how rare it is to find such exquisitely-served game in Hong Kong, we fell upon it with relish, devouring it in record time. Overall, the pairing of berries with the fulsomely fatty meat proved an effective – yet suitably subtle – touch, with any gaminess dialed down just enough to make it genuinely delicious.

Then, making us oddly nostalgic for the Nordic nights we had – admittedly – never known, it was on to the Sticky Toffee Pudding. Doused in a generous ginger butterscotch sauce, this is just a must for anyone who feels as though Christmas cuisine can never truly outstay its welcome.

So, can Nordic comfort food woo the wavering diners of Hong Kong away from such safe harbour staples as French, Italian, Korean and Japanese cuisine? The answer would have to be very much in the affirmative. After all, it may just be that the famously long Scandinavian nights are really just a pretext for famously long Scandinavian suppers. Only by checking out The Flying Elk will you know for sure.

The Flying Elk. 2F Wyndam Mansion, 32 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2898 3788.

Brexfast of Champions: Newly un-EU’d UK nosh from Central-set Statement

Italy has gifted the world’s gourmands with seemingly never-ending pizza and pasta variations, while France has divvied a fine selection of cheese and jambons. Even Germany, meanwhile, has several sumptuous(ish) schnitzels and wursts to its name. What, though, of Great Britain? What can this sceptred isle claim by way of tummy treats for the internationally peckish?

If you’re thinking bangers and mash, boiled cabbage or pork pies, you’re not far off the mark when it comes to UKatering, though none of these are likely to get the Men from Michelin ordering seconds. Or, for the most part, firsts.

The widely-held view of England’s lack of eminence in the edibility stakes may just be about to change, however, with one new Central-set cuisinery – Statement – determined to bring a bite-to-eat Blighty-style bang-up-to-date as the Year of the Boar shuffles, trotters to the fore, into view. Set on the top floor of the wholly-renovated, heritage Tai Kwun building – once home to the former Central Police Station – and owned and operated by the always-sampleable Aqua Restaurant Group, it’s on a mission to see hungry Hongkongers soon noshing down on London-style lunches and supper a-la-Salisbury-style.

Upon stepping into Statement’s decorously-appointed dining area, it is immediately apparent that Aqua is keen to dispel any notion that that it has invested its hard-earned money in an upmarket fish-and-chippery. From its coolly elegant dark interiors to its plush tropical verandahs (overlooking either the fleshpots of Hollywood Road or the Tai Kwun Compound) nary the merest hint of battered haddock is to be had. Indeed, all thoughts of stodgy servings vanish as the first plate hoves into view.

Our particular tasting began in fine form with the first of the starters being no less than Heirloom beetroot parcels with aubergine, red pepper, kaffir lime yoghurt, with not the faintest whiff of a pea, mushy or otherwise. If anything, a tad reminiscent of a rich ravioli, these pure purple bites enveloped a delicately-balanced red pepper-eggplant concoction, perfectly contrasting with the tart yoghurt and a generous sprinkle of pistachio nut crumble. Belying its arresting hues, the flavours were the last word in sophisticated subtlety.

Next up was Pan-fried Hokkaido scallops, smoked cabbage heart with Welsh laverbread butter. Here, the oft-derided cabbage took star billing as a perfect smoky foil for the exquisitely cooked, succulent scallops. The creamy, umami-packed laver sauce – a seaweed derivative, who knew? – then added just the right oceanic note, tying the whole dish together superbly.

Barely was the last scallop swallowed, when main course numero uno – Slow-cooked 24-hour marinated braised British oxtail – arrived, with the wait staff rightly billing it as a nicely novel alternative to the more standard steak fare. No disagreement on our part, with the melt-in-your-mouth texture of the shredded oxtail – paired with the tart tomato compote and smooth potato puree – a fitting treat for even the most discerning meat-minded diner.

That, though, proved just the warm-up act for main course number two – Slow-cooked Grassingham duck with plum sauce and salt-baked carrot. Perhaps oddly for a Great British game dish, it called to mind Peking Duck, with the well-prepared duck breast pairing perfectly with the piquancy of the plum sauce.

Full to the point of belt-buckle unbuckling, the prospect of a perfidious Albion afters remained irresistible and the Cranberry poached pear, buttermilk caramel mousse and Scottish shortbread combo didn’t disappoint. In particular, the refreshing tanginess of the bite-sized pear morsels proved the perfect counterpoint to our hearty repast. Add in the crunch of the secret-recipe shortbread and the tantalisingly sweet caramel mousse and it was a finely finessed finale to an unexpectedly haute cuisine experience.

From smoked cabbage hearts and braised oxtail to juicy duck breasts and poached pears, the establishment’s unambiguous ability to take ordinary British ingredients and transform them into a truly high-end culinary experience not only allows it to set a new benchmark in British gourmandry, it allows it to make a truly memorable Statement.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Did You Know: Five lesser-known facts to about white truffles

Despite its rather earthy roots – pun intended – white truffles have fast become one of the world’s most sought-after ingredients, with celebrity chefs from Gordon Ramsey to Otto e Mezzo’s own Umberto Bombana eager to utilise its pungent aroma and fulsome flavours to raise their dishes to new heights. To celebrate the start of white truffle season, here are five lesser-known facts about this fine fungus.

1. The Nose Knows

While black truffles are cultivated much like any other fruit or vegetable, white truffles are, in fact, much harder to farm. In fact, finding these underground funghi is more akin to a treasure hunt, with specially-trained pigs (and sometimes, dogs) required to sniff them out. Why pigs, you ask? That’s because they scent out white truffles more easily since the fungus exude a smell similar to the male pig pheromone.

Specially trained pigs are used to hunt white truffles — *Specially trained pigs hunting for white truffles*

2. The Record Breaker

It’s no secret that white truffles command staggering prices, with the going rate averaging between US$1,000 and US$2,000 per pound. But back in 2007, Macanese gambling mogul Stanley Ho reportedly set a record when he paid US$300,000 for a single 3.3lb specimen.

3. The Sex Appeal

As with chocolate and oysters, white truffles have long been considered an aphrodisiac. So much so that during the Middle Ages, monks were banned from eating these heady morsels for fear that it would make them forego their celibacy vows.

4. Eat-aly Only

Unlike black truffles, which are farmed in Britain, France and much of Western Europe, white truffles can only be found in Italy. More specifically, they’re almost exclusively limited to the Piedmont region on its northern border.

5. Diminishing Returns

Sadly, there’s bad news for the world’s burgeoning population of white truffle aficionados. This much-favoured fungus seems destined for extinction, with the total supply harvested decreasing year after year. And, with the advent of global warming, unsustainable demand and soil erosion due to fungicides, there seems little to turn the tide of its decline. Our advice? Eat these white truffles now, while you still can!

Pan-tastic: Le Pan serves inspired French cuisine with an Asian tweak

Stepping into Le Pan, an 18-month-old French fine dining establishment, the first thing that hits you is its sheer immensity. There is, however, sound thinking behind its commodiousness. Unlike Central, Wan Chai or Causeway Bay, where a clutter of deluxe dineries vie for patrons, Le Pan has the missionary-esque task of converting the gastronomically unaware citizens of Kowloon Bay into true aficionados of fine food.

At the head of this wholescale culinary conversion is Chef Edward Voon, Malaysian-born, but Singapore-reared. Bankrolling his bid to properly educate the local palate is Pan Sutong, the Hong Kong-based billionaire businessman who founded Matsunichi Communication Holdings, the home appliance giant. Together, they have created a restaurant that is unashamedly, as Voon puts it, “contemporary French, reimagined”.

*Le Pan is ably helmed by Chef Edward Voon*

Thankfully, a legion of fine dining enthusiasts and eminent food critics have bought into the shared vision of Le Pan, with many seeing an excursion to Kowloon Bay as more than amply recompensed by the array of ever-changing, well-finessed Gallic gourmandry that is always on offer.

Explaining his approach to building the restaurant’s reputation, Voon says: “I cook everyday as if it’s a competition. Whenever a regular returns, I throw out the menu and change things about for them. I love that kind of adrenaline and that’s also why we swap out over a quarter of the menu every month, giving me the chance to experiment anew.”

Eager to give this ceaseless rotation of fine cusinery a go, we started our tasting with Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly. Much like the man himself, this starter was multi-layered and complex, with sharply contrasting flavours expertly woven into a wholly-coherent and supremely-satisfying platter.

Next up, a sumptuous appetiser of Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple. Divided into hot and cold servings, the warmer end of the spectrum featured a crunchy pastry-and-oba-leaf-wrapped scampi, rounded off with a tart Granny Smith apple butter sauce and a drizzle of basil reduction. The chillier choice – perhaps the stronger showing of the two portions – majored on cold trout, foiled wonderfully by a bed of vegetable jelly and topped with creamy salmon tartare.

Delicacy was the order of the day with our final starter – Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc, expertly paired with cod roe eggs. The tactical deployment of the (potentially overwhelming) black beans here, proved a surprising yet wholly appropriate addition, and a subtle nod to the Le Pan chef’s Asian roots.

Then it was on to the main course proper – beautifully-plated Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce, a dish sure to find favour with even the haughtiest high-end epicurean fans. Indeed, the pairing of such a perfectly-cooked crustacean with lobster and pearl onion tartare was nothing short of inspired.

*Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse*

Skipping from one peak palate performer to the next, it was due time for the house’s piecé de résistance – Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse – to take centre stage. Whilst a notoriously problematic bit of poultry for many chefs, the pigeon à la Le Pan – sumptuously smoked in applewood and rosemary – was tender and proved quite the revelation.

After a series of unquestionably complex, yet wholly delicious courses, Chef Voon saw fit to end our gallop through Gallic gastronomy with an apparently simple dessert. The merest tincture of the proffered Yuzu cremeux, white chocolate, almond, lemon confit, however, was enough to dispel that particular notion. Tart yet sweet, creamy yet light, it was the perfect postscript to a truly marvellous menu, and a testament to his deft hand at composing complex dishes far greater than the sum of their parts.

Le Pan. G/F, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Rd, Kowloon Bay. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Restaurant review: Bibo, where style meets substance

If there were a restaurant equivalent of a speakeasy, Bibo would fit the bill perfectly. Tucked away in Sheung Wan opposite Man Mo temple, it would take a fair bit of investigative skills to firstly locate the restaurant and then to actually get the door open – if one is given to flights of fancy, the experience may seem something like entering Ali Baba’s cave from Arabian Nights.

Renowned street artist Invader’s work displayed at Bibo

Once you’ve successfully crossed the initial hurdles, there’s one more to go: there are two staircases, one going up, another going down – which one do you choose? We followed our instincts and took the path oft travelled and that led us – wonder of wonders – to the right destination, a cosy restaurant and a well-stocked bar – a welcome sight, indeed!

But the surprise was not yet over. In a city where every eatery is desperate to outbid others by bolder, glitzier, more glamorous decor, Bibo goes on a different path altogether. With contemporary art lining literally every surface – from street artist Invader’s ‘notorious’ pixel art to American artist Kaws’ iconic cross-eyed installations, every nook and corner has a cool chic vibe, perfect for an urban crowd ready to forsake ostentatiousness.

At the helm of this urban cuisinary is new executive chef, Nicholas Chew, who gives the classic French menu at Bibo an Asian makeover. The result in an French-Asian fusion cuisine with a modern flair, that tips its hat to French techniques, while exploring its Asian roots through premium indigenous ingredients.

The first dish itself – squid cheong fun – lays testimony to Chef Nick’s vision. The humble rice noodle rolls have been replaced with squid, that has been lightly steamed to simulate the consistency of the traditional cheong fun. To be fair, it’s a dish that’s perhaps more to be applauded for its inventiveness than its actual flavours, but it sets the tone for the next course which is a sustainably sourced Hamachi yellowtail with apple ceviche. The fish was fresh, buttery, but nothing extraordinary; it is the citrusy apple jus, however, that convinced us of the chef’s skills. The citric – yet mildly sweet – flavours of the jus bound every element of the dish into a surprisingly harmonious creation.

However, we were in for another surprise as we took the first spoonful of the celeriac risotto. The name should have been a giveaway but we didn’t fully appreciate its aptness until we realised that traditional rice has been replaced by finely chopped celeriac, giving the dish a refreshing acidic bite. Coupled with mango and truffles, this is an item that one can gorge on, without feeling guilty about calorie intake. The next course that greeted us was Wagyu Miyazaki. With Wagyu beef, it’s difficult to go wrong and in the hands of the talented chef, it reached a poetic perfection. The succulent meat – tender on the inside, crisp on the outside – was paired perfectly with scallops, chanterelles and cherries, and was as impeccable a creation as any. Our only grouch? It finished too soon!

With our expectations already sky-high, it was time to dig into the desserts duo – strawberry dacquoise and passion fruit cream. However, maybe because we were expecting nothing short of maverick genius by this time, the desserts left something to be desired.

Well, if the desserts fell slightly short, the wine pairings more than made up for it. Throughout the tasting, we were treated to one liquid gem after the other from the vineyards of Italy and France. Special kudos to the sommelier at Bibo, for his extensive – yet carefully handpicked – wine collection that could easily be the envy of any bar in the city.

With a winning combination of French-Asian cuisine, extensive wine selection and artsy interiors, Bibo brings the best of both worlds – fine arts and fine dining – into one creative space. At the end of the day, it’s a mighty fine experience, we say!

Reservations: www.bibo.hk
Address: 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
Phone: +852 2956 3188

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Meat and Greet: Dining at one Michelin-starred Beefbar

Tucked away on Ice House Street, just on the outskirts of Lan Kwai Fong, lies the Beefbar, an establishment long-favoured by the city’s more carnivorous connoisseurs. While wowing the more meat-minded, it has also – rather impressively – managed to notch up a Michelin star for its trouble.

This, however, is the Hong Kong outpost of an international chain founded in Monaco in 2005, with the group guided by the sure instincts of award-winning Italian restauranteur, Riccardo Giraudi. To date, it’s the only branch in Asia as well as the sole claimant to a Michelin star.

Given its pre-eminent location, it should come as no surprise that its evening patronage has a distinct corporate skew, with many after-hours deals probably covertly consummated amid its marble trappings and plush leather seating. It pretty much goes without saying that its bar is well-stocked and that its selection of fine wines and premium spirits should satisfy even the most discerning of drinkophiles.

*Executive Chef Andrea Spagoni has helmed Beefbar since day one*

The main attraction here, as its name clearly asserts, is undoubtedly the beef. With Executive Chef Andrea Spagoni having been the man behind its menu from day, every item on its expansive menu is fashioned from only the finest produce, whether beef, seafood or – for those wanting to go green – vegetarian items.

With more than 20 years of experience under his big white hat, it’s apparent that Spagoni has a clear vision for Beefbar: “While we specialise in beef, we don’t call ourselves a steakhouse. We go far beyond that, whether in terms of our Raw Bar, which serves raw beef and seafood specialities, or our focus on delivering high quality seafood and vegetarian options to any diner who may be meat-averse.”

Keen to put Spagoni’s claims to the test, we began with a selection of Raw delicacies, with Tuna, Veal, Oyster and Caviar Tartare (HK$490) first to the table. Surprisingly subtle, it proved a perfect balance of land-meets-ocean, with the meaty morsels of veal eye the perfect counterpoint to the salty tuna and creamy oyster nibbles.

Next was another cold appetiser – Seabass Ceviche with Edamame, Tosazu and Quail Egg (HK$220). Here, the milder flavours of the seabass were expertly forefronted, wholly enriched by crunchy edamame, a creamy quail egg and a tart vinaigrette sauce. The perfect summer dish.

Seabass with Edamame, Tosazu and Quail's Egg — *Seabass with Edamame, Tosazu and Quail’s Egg*

As a diverting interlude, Chef Spagoni then set about enticing us with items from his menu’s Street Food range, featuring Grade A5 Kobe beef prepared and served in a number of truly innovative ways.

Of these, the Kobe Beef and Sea Urchin Crispy Tacos (HK$290) was truly delicious with a surprisingly cohesive flavour given the robust taste profiles of its individual ingredients. Our undoubted favourite, though, was the Black Angus Slider with Bacon and Lemon Sauce (HK$100). Every bite of this mini-burger simply melted in the mouth, with the bacon according the taste buds a little added zing.

Finally, although almost wholly replete, it was time for dessert. As if on cue, an “Irish Coffee” Souffle and Coffee Ice Cream (HK$120) with an expresso shot appeared on the table. As any aspirant baker will attest, soufflés are among the most challenging desserts to deliver with true perfection, but Chef Spagoni rose to the occasion with considerable aplomb. Perfectly symmetrical and with just the right amount of wobble, it initially seemed solely suitable for those with the sweetest of tooths. Upon pairing it with a sip of the expresso shot, however, balance was more than restored, with the caffeine dispelling any hint of post-prandial torpor.

*Black Angus Mini Burger with Bacon and Lemon Sauce*

As each successive dish was served, it was eminently clear that it was more than just the food that sets Beefbar apart. In truth, it’s the finesse and eye for detail with which Chef Spagoni plates each dish that truly sets this establishment apart from Hong Kong’s horde of rival meaty me-too’s.

2/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St, Central. (852) 2110 8853. hk.beefbar.com/

Text: Tenzing Thondup