Indian street food-inspired Chaat opens its doors at the Rosewood Hong Kong

Pav Bhaji, Chicken Tikka, Lamb Seekh Kebab… These are just a few of the mouth-watering, quintessentially Indian fare that can be had at the latest eatery to open in Rosewood Hong Kong – Chaat.

Ably helmed by Chef de Cuisine Manav Tuli – an 18-year industry veteran whose career spans from India to London, and who latterly reopened Tamarind, one of London’s first Michelin-starred Indian restaurants – Chaat promises to bring the vibrant spices and heady flavours of much-loved Indian street foods directly to the table, albeit with an upscale twist and a dramatic flair.

The menu here features a variety of small plates such as Raj Kachori to whet guests’ appetites, before delving into hearty mains such as Palak Paneer (slow-cooked buttery spinach with paneer) and Lamb Dum Biryani. A key draw at Chaat is its amalgam of Tandoor-inspired dishes. For the uninitiated, a Tandoor is a traditional Indian oven utilised in the cooking of various kebabs and tikkas without the need for any oil. It’s a method that imparts a unique smoky flavour to every morsel, and that’s exactly what you get in dishes such as Lobster Tikka and Black Pepper Chicken Tikka.

If that weren’t enough Chaat’s bag of tricks also includes an extensive beverage programme that encompasses not only Indian spirits and refreshing cocktails but also a vast selection of Portuguese and Indian wines. Add to that a dramatically upholstered interior and sweeping views across Victoria Harbour, and this may just be your next favourite eatery.

CHAAT
Address: Level Five, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Contact Number: +852-5239-9220
Email: Hongkong.chaat@rosewoodhotels.com
Website: www.chaat.hk

Old-timey dimsum experience unveiled at 1 Michelin-starred Duddell’s

For six years now, Central-set Duddell’s has set the benchmark for fine-dining Cantonese cuisine. In particular, its dimsum menu has found favour with discerning diners across the city, lauded as being equal parts innovative and an homage to the culinary tradition’s established flavours.

Now, Duddell’s is introducing a special iteration of its much-loved all-you-can-eat dimsum buffet every Monday to Thursday starting in July. This new take sees the restaurant take guests back to Hong Kong’s ’80s-era heyday, serving up not only classics like steamed shrimp dumplings (har gau) and chicken’s feet (feng zao), but also revives long-forgotten favourites from that time.

As such, the new all-you-can-eat ‘80’s dim sum menu include additions such as Duddell’s signature pork and shrimp dumpling, juicy beef dumpling with lard, minced beef ball with bean curd skin, steamed bean curd sheet roll filled with collagen-rich duck feet and taro, and shrimp spring roll with garlic. New desserts include the Chinese traditional sweet soup of green mung bean with fried seaweed, and the beloved coconut milk pudding with red bean.

In all, over 30 varieties of dimsums, dishes and desserts will be on offer. What’s more, there’s even a free-flow drink package (HK$148 + 10% service charge per head) inclusive of two hours of house wines, spirits, soft drinks and beers. With the unlimited buffet priced at just HK$268 + 10% service charge per head, there’s really nothing stopping you from diving in, chopsticks brandished, to your heart’s content.

Smashing seasonal summer cocktails now being served at Zuma

For cocktail aficionados looking to beat the heat, perhaps the latest round of limited-editions summer cocktails to launch at fine-dining establishment Zuma is just the ticket you’re looking for. To greet the season, the innovative izakaya-style eatery has kicked off festivities with its first-ever bottled Highball, created in partnership with local craft mixer Carbonation and Japanese whisky distillery Nikka. Dubbed the Zuma Yuzu Highball, this limited-edition tipple features a pronounced, bubbly yuzu flavour, rounded out with a kick of Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky and green apple. Sweet yet sour, it’s reported to be “the best cure for hot and humid summer nights”.

Elsewhere on the seasonal menu, Zuma has teamed up with yet another international alcohol brand – this time, Casamigos tequila, the tequila brand famously co-founded by George Clooney – to serve up two more thirst-quenching cocktails. The first is Bajiru Smash, a crisp concoction blending Casamigos Reposado with cucumber, lemongrass, lime, yuzu and fresh basil. The second is Shāpu, which sees Casamigos Blanco mixed with longan sake and citrusy notes, given a dash of sweetness with some watermelon juice and a lingering spicy bite courtesy of some shichimi umeshu. To celebrate this synergistic union between Mexican and Japanese flavours, Zuma will also be serving a special selection of tempura to match these drinks.

If that weren’t enough, Zuma is also inviting bartender extraordinaire Jay Khan of COA fame and most recently the winner of the Bartender’s Bartender 2020 award to host a special one-night-only Casamigos-featured affair at Zuma on 16 July from 6pm-9pm. Whether you’re in search of a post-work pick-me-up or just a smooth seasonal cocktail, Zuma seems like its’ pretty much the place to be this summer.

Go Honjo: Exploring this hip, contemporary new Japanese eatery

With few in the Fragrant Harbour having much of an appetite for Hubei cuisine at the present, hungry Hongkongers have been casting about for a tempting alternative. One that has come very much to the fore is Japanese food. Indeed, unless you’ve spent the last month forcibly con ned just off the coast of Yokohoma, chances are you can easily nd this an enigmatic and oft underexplored cooking style. Thankfully, for those looking to address any such shortcoming on their personal, diet-based, mission of discovery, there is a local destination sure to remedy just that – Sheung Wan-set Honjo.

One of a number of dineries debuted last year by the Wong Chuk Hang-headquartered Pirata Group – the company behind such celebrated scofferies as The Optimist and Tokyolima – Honjo prides itself on reinventing quintessential Japanese dishes in a wholly contemporary manner. The result is an expansive, well thought- out menu that’s eclectic yet familiar, comprising everything from raw staples and cold appetisers to sushi, tempura and a positive panoply of larger platters.

Those expecting any hallmark of greatness from without, however, might be a little disappointed – access to its apparently unassuming premises is via an equally unassuming little door. Once you have crossed the threshold, though, you are immediately transported through time and space, but not to any destination you might anticipate… Rather than finding yourself catapulted to the court of the Chrysanthemum Throne sometime 1700 AD-ish, instead it’s the singular stylings of ’50s Britain, all dim lighting, safari prints and ruddy furnishings, that greet you. Despite being something of a surprise, it is undoubtedly welcoming and cosy in its own way…

It would also take more than an outré ambience to dissuade us from our tasting mission and we were more than eager to dive into the first course – Tuna Cracker, a modern interpretation of the traditional nigiri. Each piece proved a mighty mouthful, with shredded raw tuna, ikura (salmon roe), an avocado mousse and a deep-fried rice-cracker all vying for mouthroom. It was an intriguing combination, with the crunchy rice, juicy roe and slight wasabi sting in the mousse all acting to enhance the creaminess of the tuna.

Next up was Iberico – seared pork tenderloin, seasoned with a spicy Sichuan oil and a refreshing ginger scallion salsa. With further refinement coming in the form of both the bubu arare (deep- fried rice grains) and the lingering notes of Sichuan pepper, every bite lingered long, light and tangy.

The final cold dish to be served up was a Medium Sushi Platter, laden with four types of nigiri – salmon, hamachi belly, chutoro and tuna – and two rolls, salmon / avocado and hamachi / cucumber. A feast for the eyes as much as the palate, the melt-in-your-mouth chutoro was an instant hit, while the hamachi cucumber roll – accented with purple yukari shiso salt – offered the most interesting in-mouth sensation. Next up was the first hot dish of the tasting – the Honjo Tempura Selection. Lightly battered, but perfectly crisp, the black tiger prawns surprised as the undoubted stars of this delicious dish. Once again, though, the restaurant had an ace up its sleeve, this time in the form of its Broccolini. While it’s an unusual tempura inclusion, its subtle crunch and juicy texture won us over completely.

Perhaps the most outstanding dish, though, was the Whole Chicken & Rice, which, true to its name, featured a whole baby chicken, one stuffed with mushrooms, pancetta and sticky rice, then served with hazelnuts, salt and a delectable, buttery ginger roast sauce. While there’s no denying the East-meets- West credentials of this particular dish, it’s a combination that, while complex, is far greater than its constituent parts. Not only does the dish shine in its own right, the addition of each condiment transforms the overall flavour palate, essentially delivering four courses on one plate.

All in all, it’s an apt display of just how Honjo has raised the bar for modern Japanese cuisine, experimenting with new ingredients and enhancing classic favours with a wholly dynamic flourish. Add to that its stunningly lush interiors and what you get is a true culinary gem.

Honjo. 1/Fl, 77-91 Queen’s Rd West, Sheung Wan. (852) 2663 3772. honjo.hk

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Honjo

Father’s Day Feasts: Delicious meals to fete daddy dearest this weekend

Choosing the perfect fine-dining venue to show your appreciation for daddy dearest this Father’s Day can be quite a challenge, but the bustling lifestyle hub of Lan Kwai Fong offers a plethora of options to suit even the most discerning of diners.

As any local gourmand knows, there are dinner options aplenty, several of whom are offering special deals on that special day – take for instance LKF stalwart Japanese fine-dining venues, Tokio Joe and Kyoto Joe, who are offering a hefty 20 percent off on all dinner or a la carte menu items.

Meat-minded diners, meanwhile, need look no further than Porterhouse, the upscale California Tower-set steakhouse. For Father’s Day, the meat specialists here are offering a special “Beef It Up” dinner on Sundays, both offering unlimited servings of three separate cuts of Australian Black Angus and Brisket. Priced at HK$528 + 10% service charge per person, the lucky folks who make the first 20pax bookings here will be able to take advantage of a ‘Buy 3 Get 1 Free’ special. If that weren’t enough, you can even enjoy a further 30% off on wines over HK$700. What’s not to love…

If fresh seafood is more to your father’s liking, check out the equally sumptuous Father’s Day brunch at Fumi, also located within California Tower. Here the luxurious buffet experience includes a wide array of Japanese delicacies like the Hokkaido Red King Crab Leg, Kuroge Wagyu Tartar with Yuzu Sauce and sashimi freshly flown from Japan. Turning to the mains, expect Miso Cod; Sautéed Angus Beef Cubes with Garlic, A4 Miyazaki Beef Himi Udon in Soup, Mini Rice Bowl with Chopped Toro & Japanese Leek and more. Like Porterhouse, Fumi is offering a special ‘Buy 3 Get 1 Free’ deal for the first 20 bookings, while gifting dads with a free glass of beer as well. Cheers!

Home Comforts: Gaia Group introduces fine-dining delivery service

While staying indoors and eating home food is the safest option – especially in times of a virus outbreak like the Coronavirus – our choices can get pretty repetitive. Fortunately, fine-dining fare can still be had in the comforts of your own home thanks to Gaia Group, with the restaurant company having just introduced its delivery service to bring you their tastiest cuisines to your doorstep.

Allowing you to enjoy a great gastronomic experience without the need to venture forth outdoors, you can order from restaurants including the bastion of contemporary Chinese cuisine, Shè, the authentic Italian choice Velo and all the other outlets under the group. Best of all, you can place an order from different restaurants at the same time, just in case your family can’t agree on just one eatery.

Since debuting in 2000, Gaia Group has seen continuous, significant success across the years – not just in Hong Kong but in Shanghai, Beijing, and Bangkok too. Known for strategically planning, keen awareness of consumer tastes and adapting to the market, the launch of this new service shows the way the group successfully keeps up with the changing time and scenario.

Fill in the form to place your order or WhatsApp (852) 9877 2635 or (852) 6056 8505. Moreover, you can get a free delivery when you purchase for HK$1,000 or more.

If you have any further queries please contact Gaia Group via email – contactus@gaiagroup.com.hk

Suschic: Stylish sea-to-table sushi proves The Araki has arrived

There’s long been a special place in the heart of many of Hong Kong’s most discerning diners for one particular dish – sushi. Indeed, the city’s culinary landscape is dotted with a plethora of establishments serving up this uniquely Japanese cuisine at pretty much every imaginable price point. When it comes to Michelin-starred sushi standouts, however, the Fragrant Harbour boasts just three – three-starred Sushi Saikon, two-starred Sushi Saito and one-starred Sushi Wadatsumi.

Change, though, is in the air, with Mitsuhiro Araki – the only Japanese chef to ever attain much coveted Michelin treble-star status in both London and Tokyo – having now opened an outpost in Asia’s World City. His bold new venture – The Araki – is an exclusive 12-seat restaurant and can be found tucked in to the old stablery, part of Tsim Sha Tsui’s refurbished Heritage 1881 compound.

Discreet by design, Chef Araki’s Hong Kong debut dinery was conceived as a homage to Edomae sushi, a style developed in Tokyo-some 200 year ago as a means of keeping seafood fresh long before the invention of refrigeration. This saw the canny cooks of the day resorting to infusions of salt, miso and soy sauce as a way of ensuring their fine produce remained perfectly edible long after it had been caught. It’s a time-honoured tradition and one said to yield far more in terms of texture, flavour and sheer melt-in-the-mouth satisfaction than the solely raw seafood-on-rice approach favoured by many contemporary establishments.

Accordingly, when dining at The Araki, guests should expect a multi-course omakase menu, one continuously customised to make best use of the day’s finest freshly-caught ingredients. In one telling break with tradition, however, Araki personally oversees the inventorying, visiting the wet markets daily to source the best local seafood and specifying regular deliveries of certain fish found solely in Japanese waters.

Outlining his culinary philosophy, he said: “While people always assume the best quality seafood must come from Japan, that is not the case for every ingredient. As the ocean doesn’t recognise national boundaries, it is important to build relationships with local fisherman wherever you are in the world, whether that’s Japan, the UK or Hong Kong. That is the only way to ensure you always get the very best seafood.”

Eager to see how his approach pans out in practice, we pretty much pounced on our tasting fingers as soon as they appeared. To be fair, we were only following orders as we had been briefed that every item of sushi would be served directly onto the wooden countertop – with the requisite wasabi and sauce already applied – and should be consumed (using one hand only) within seconds of its arrival.

Appropriately enough, the first to be table-topped was the Tuna. As Araki is a world-renowned tuna master, our expectations were high. Fortunately, his truly delicious nigiri more than delivered – all melt-in-the-mouth morsels of tuna carved lovingly from the fish’s exquisitely tasty neck region.

Next to tempt our taste buds was Young Snapper, sourced fresh from the local wet markets and beautifully tender thanks to its relative infancy. Creamy yet firm, its flavours were enhanced with a dash of Thai lime, giving it a refreshingly citrusy aftertaste.

Barely had we completed this memorable course when the next locally-sourced sushi offering – Mantis Shrimp – took its on-table turn. Rather than being served raw, it was instead lightly poached, with only a dash of soy sauce to enhance its inherent sweetness. Boasting a somewhat crunchy texture, its cooked flesh was wonderfully counterpointed by the subtly tangy rice and came in sharp contrast to its raw counterpart.

Perhaps the most stunning course of all, though, was the Ebi Oboro with Prawn Crumb. Another cooked dish, here the ebi prawn came wrapped in oboro, a surprisingly soft, crumbly shrimp paste created by grinding prawns for hours on end. Together, they form a delectably cohesive whole, with the sweet crunch of the prawn and smoothness of the oboro merging synergistically before serenading your taste buds with their joyous unity.

From start to finish, Chef Araki’s passion and mastery over his craft was never less than wholly evident. From the undeniably high quality of the ingredients – “I check the eyes, gills and firmness to make sure each fish is perfect. If it’s not 100 percent, it’s not going to make the cut” – and flawlessly precise seasonings to the intimate atmosphere of the dining experience, every aspect of The Araki’s omakase tasting is exceptionally well orchestrated, with each individual dish striking a deliciously different note. Small wonder, then, that you currently have to book several months in advance should you want to check out Chef Araki for yourself.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Images: The Araki

Two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club unveils sumptuous new tasting menu

Amid the hustle and bustle of Central’s busy streets comes a fine-dining Cantonese cuisinary that has elevated the city’s traditional fare to new heights. We are speaking, of course, of Ying Jee Club, the two Michelin-starred restaurant located on Connaught Road’s Nexxus Building. Part of the ZS Hospitality Group – which owns four other Central-set restaurants including Lee Lo Mei, Moi Moi and Sakana No Aji – it recently upped the epicurean stakes even further with the unveiling of an all-new seasonal tasting menu.

Personally curated by Chef Siu Hin Chi, the culinary genius who has collected 15 Michelin stars in the past decade, the new tasting menu at Ying Jee Club serves up seven separate courses that each boast a unique flavour profile. Yet, when taken as a whole, the experience is nothing so much as an homage to the very best of Cantonese culinary traditions and ingredients.

The line-up opened with Chilled Sliced Sea Whelk with Jelly Fish and Caviar, Wok-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu Beef with Scallion and Soy Sauce. A two-part appetiser that blends succulent seafood morsels with heartier bites of melt-in-your-mouth beef, it deftly showcased Chef Siu’s ability to create dishes that are far greater than the sum of their parts.

Then it was onto back-to-back lobster courses. First up was Baked Lobster with Cheese and Garlic, which sees baby lobsters baked in a heavenly garlicky concoction and topped with cheese. An umami bomb from start to finish, it served as a perfect counter point to the next dish – Steamed Whole Lobster with Egg White and “Hua Diao”. Here, subtlety was the name of the game, with the steamed egg custard and lobster bites enhanced and sweetened with the judicious use of hua diao, a traditional Chinese yellow wine.

To follow, and in a knowing nod to local appetites, was Braised South African Abalone with Pork Belly and Vegetable in Oyster Sauce. Once again, Chef Siu’s adept handling of his ingredients sees the tender pork belly and delicate abalone merge to form a superbly mouth-watering dish.

Next to hove into view was Poached Fish Maw with Wolfberry in Chicken Broth, a deliciously wholesome dish that called nothing to mind so much as a childhood favourite reborn – albeit with a fine-dining twist – before the final savoury course arrived tableside: Fried Rice with Barbecue Pork, Roast Duck, Shrimp, Crispy Conpoy and Vegetables. Boasting an amalgam of flavours and textures that came together in a uniquely cohesive manner, this was Cantonese comfort food at its very finest.

To end proceedings on a truly sweet note, the beautifully presented Ying Jee Dessert was unveiled. From the flaky Lotus Seed Paste Puff and Glutinous Dumpling to the decadent Double Boiled Bird’s Nest with Almond Juice, it served as the perfect sampling platter to satiate the sweet tooth of even the most discerning diner.

The new seasonal tasting menu at Ying Jee Club is priced at HK$1,980 per person. Oenophiles can also opt for the wine pairing menu for an additional HK$600 as well.

Ying Jee Club. Shop G05 G/Fl & Shops 107~108, 1/Fl, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd Central.(852)2801 6882. www.yingjeeclub.hk

Peak Performance: Sumptuous steaks and stunning views at 37 Steakhouse & Bar

It’s an open secret that Hong Kong’s discerning epicureans are partial to a perfectly cooked steak or two. In fact, this very love of indulging in a choice cut of premium beef has spawned countless carnivorously-inclined eateries across the city. There is one newcomer to this particular fine-dining niche, however, that has risen – quite literally – above its competitors.

Set atop one of Hong Kong’s most iconic and stunning destinations, the Victoria Peak, this new meat-minded culinary concept comes courtesy of The Food Story, the hospitality group behind a slew of new dining destinations, including Causeway Bay-based Wagyu Vanne and Sensu by Gosango. Its latest offering comes in the form of 37 Steakhouse & Bar, a stunning 7,000sq.ft restaurant in the recently-refurbished Peak Galleria.

The second international outpost of the eponymous Roppongi hotspot in Tokyo, this latest iteration is ably helmed by Chef Ken Kwok, a 15-year veteran of the F&B industry who simultaneously acts as executive chef for the aforementioned eateries, and whose resume includes a stint as sous chef at two Michelin-starred Wagyu Takumi under renowned Japanese chef Mitsuru Konishi.

With his latest Peak-set cuisinary, Kwok’s mission statement is to “give Hongkongers a whole new perspective on steakhouse dining”. In line with this vision, 37 Steakhouse serves up a truly staggering array of prime beef options, ranging from USDA Prime Black Angus and Korean Hanwoo selections to Belgian Prime Beef. The menu’s true star turn, though, is undoubtedly the rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu. Lauded in Japan as one of the finest, most marbled beef brands, it is the first time this particular offering is being served outside its borders – a fact sure to attract discerning diners in search of unique culinary experiences.

However, to assume that steaks are the only focus here would be a gross disservice to the restaurant. Indeed, even a cursory glimpse of its drinks menu reveals a treasure trove of fine wines and premium sakes, including an impressive sampling of vintages from Sawaya Matsumoto, the renowned 230-year-old Japanese brewery. Keen emphasis has also been placed on its design, with its interiors – developed by award-winning Japanese architect Yasumichi Morita – featuring contemporary wood-dominant tones, replete with floor-to-ceiling windows that show off its picturesque views to perfection.

Returning to the food front, Kwok’s menu reveals a deftly balanced approach, with lighter seafood-fronted servings getting as much attention as its beef-centric offerings. Indeed, our own tasting experience began with the wafer-thin Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio. Succulent and fresh, the creaminess of the Sicilian red prawns was heightened by the added crunch of the fresh radishes and lettuce leaves adorning it.

Next up was the Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise, subtly sauced to highlight the palate-pleasing textures of the raw beef, which itself was a wellblended amalgam of the fattier chuck roll and leaner top blade. Enhancing its appeal even further was the side serving of a cheese crisp, topped with dollops of chopped raw onions, pickles and a heap of luxurious caviar. Each pairing offered a different note to every bite savoured.

Then the true crowd-pleasers arrived tableside – a series of the restaurant’s signature steaks, including a Belgian Prime Beef Dry Aged Steak striploin and the long-awaited Hiyama A5 Wagyu chuck roll. The former offered more condensed carnivorous textures, while the latter boasted marbled melt-in-the-mouth flavours. With each prime cut cooked to medium-rare perfection in a state-of-the-art Spanish Josper charcoal grill and further enhanced with a choice of five separate sauces, every meaty morsel was inhaled in short order.

With our belts straining at the waist, we were hard-pressed to find space for the concluding dish that hoved into view. Thankfully finding that last bit of appetite, however, we then dug into the creamy goodness that was 37’s Tiramisu. Here, Chef Kwok once again showed his innate ability to manipulate traditional flavours with his own contemporary flair, with this deconstructed interpretation of the classic Italian dessert featuring mochi-like bites that gave this otherwise-creamy sweet dish a new dimension of mouth-feel.

Throughout our tasting, the chef impressed us with his impeccable understanding of just the right balance of flavours, allowing his key ingredients – be it seafood or steak – to shine brightest without fail. And that, in itself, is the essence of the enduring appeal of 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

37 Steakhouse & Bar. Shop 102-103, 1/Fl, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd, The Peak. (852) 2885 3320.

Review: Exquisitely-blended local ingredients are the true of heroes at Root

When it comes to nosheries that source the most exotic of ingredients from the furthest-flung points of the globe, Hong Kong is no slouch. Be it’s hand-reared halibut hover-crafted in from a niche Norwegian fjord or seldom-seen naturally Nepalese spices rickshawed down from the Himalayas, it’s sure to be writ large on the menu of one or another of the city’s trendier bespoke bistros.

Possibly as a sign that this particular bid for notoriety is wearing a bit thin, there are now a number of restaurants have flipped the whole concept, majoring on the fact that everything on their menus – from mince to marjoram – are proudly local. Ladies and gentlemen, please be upstanding for the Dawn of the (so-called) Locavores…

It is, to be fair, an approach that seems to be going down well. The Chairman, a Central-set locavore locale, for instance, was acclaimed as Hong Kong’s finest foodie haven at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Next year, however, it may face competition from another indigenous-ingredient enthusiast – Root, an H Code-located purveyor of fine French cuisine, all prepared from local farm inputs, with every effort made to derive the utmost from each freshly-sourced element on a “stalk to stem” basis.

Head of serving up superb sustainable cuisine at Root is Executive Chef Vito Chan, a man whose avowed philosophy is to make more from less. One of the key tools at his disposal in this regard is cryoconcentration, an innovative biofood technique said to deliver wastage of less than 5%. Such a skill, though, is not the only reason he was asked to take up the reins of the Root kitchen – he also learnt his trade under the guidance of such luminaries as Richard Ekkebus (Executive Chef of Hong Kong’s The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental’s twin-Michelin-starred Amber restaurant) and Donovan Cooke (Executive Chef at The Atlantic restaurant in Melbourne).

Keen to sample his skills for ourselves, we eagerly awaited the first item on the special tasting menu – Yellow fungus, abalone, duck consommé. While the name itself is self-explanatory, it doesn’t do justice to the multitude of flavours that Chef Chan packs into this petite-portioned appetiser. While the mild-flavoured abalone blends perfectly with the meaty fungus, this, in turn, segues seamlessly into the sweet duck consommé, triggering a cornucopia of flavours that is only enhanced further by the freshness of the edible flower garnish.

Next up is the eponymous appetiser – Bamboo fungus, scallop, karasum. Unlike its prosaic name, however, the dish itself is pretty much perfectly-plattered poetry. Here, the scallop mousse has been deftly inserted into a tube of bamboo fungus and then splayed across a bed of karasum (Chinese herbs) and mushroom broth, and topped with caviar and chrysanthemum petals. It’s a beautiful presentation, with its nourishing flavours equally heartwarming.

It is, however, the main course – Black truffle, yellow chicken, morel – that proves Chef Chan’s skills beyond doubt. The black truffle sits on a bed of chicken extract, while the yellow chicken breast comes crusted with sunflower seeds and roasted chicken skin, making it a dish where very little goes to waste. The morel, meanwhile, is topped with bitter melon and shrimps, which together create a perfect balance of flavours. Characteristically, Chef Chan again seems to revel in playing off the flavours against each other, with the mild taste of the chicken ably enhanced by the tangy sunflower seeds and the savoury tones of the morel dancing a tango with the bitterness of the bitter melon.

Black truffle ice cream, lemon meringue, almond

By the time dessert is delivered, for us at least, Chef Chan’s culinary genius is beyond dispute, although the Black truffle ice cream, lemon, almond cream sauce would have sufficed to dispel any lingering doubts. Indeed, the richness of the ice cream combined with the citrusy notes of the lemon and the freshness of the basil leaves ensured that the chef had once again delivered a dish that is pure perfection.

And that’s really the root of Root’s success – delicious dishes that don’t rely on hero ingredients, but where all the elements on the plate unite into something quite unique…

Root. 7/Fl, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 2420 8112. www.roothongkong.com

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay; Video: Kingsley Lau