High Whisk: The Mira Hong Kong’s European restaurant is speeding to a whole new level of gastronomic excellence

Whisk at The Mira Hong Kong has undergone a remarkable transformation under the leadership of Culinary Director Sheldon Fonseca. With his extensive experience honed in Michelin-starred kitchens of London and Gaia and La Petite Maison in Hong Kong, the chef has brought his culinary expertise and passion for sustainability to elevate Whisk’s dining experience. The cuisine is firmly modern European, and from the moment you step into the restaurant’s warm, elegant atmosphere, it’s clear that an exceptional culinary journey awaits.

Sustainability is at the heart of Whisk’s culinary approach. Chef Fonseca has carefully curated a menu that highlights consciously sourced seafood, artisanal meats and locally grown produce. The restaurant’s partnership with the Sustainable Restaurant Association has earned it the highest 3-star rating, reflecting the team’s unwavering dedication to responsible sourcing and environmentally conscious practices. Much of its seafood, including lobster, shrimp and tuna, are MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) certified as sustainable.

Sweetly flavoured ama ebi, complemented by zesty notes of Japanese fruit tomato, finger lime and sea grapes, is a delightful starter that whets the appetite. Likewise, white tuna tartare, a delicate dish elevated by the luxurious touch of Kaviari oscietra caviar and the earthy, slightly floral notes of smoked eggplant.

A standout main that exemplifies Whisk’s commitment to sustainability is Boston lobster tail, cooked to perfection and served with a light yet creamy shellfish emulsion. For a true taste of the South China Sea, crispy amadai with local fish bouillabaisse and saffron rouille showcases the chef’s skill in crafting a light yet intensely flavoured dish.

Turning to the land, the menu proudly showcases artisanal meats from renowned producers. Westholme wagyu beef tenderloin, served with golden brown, buttery potato fondant, glazed shallots and a rich red wine sauce, is a deceptively simple yet exceptionally flavourful dish. Boucheries Nivernaises pork loin, with pork cheek, morcilla and a spiced pork sauce, is a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing the finest quality ingredients.

For a truly unique dining experience, plump for tea- smoked Cerizay pigeons, featuring tender pigeon from a small atelier in France. The bird is expertly smoked with lapsang souchong tea leaves and served with black garlic, turnip and potato purée.

Whisk’s culinary team has also created a must-try signature dish in the form of whole roasted yellow chicken for two. Stuffed with truffle and mushroom between the skin and the meat, this locally sourced three-yellow chicken is a delightful celebration of Hong Kong’s culinary heritage, elevated with the addition of Australian black truffle and served with Japanese genmai 10-grain rice and smoked chicken sauce.

The extensive wine list, recipient of Wine Spectator magazine’s Best of Award of Excellence, offers an impressive selection of contemporary and fine old-world wines, as well as biodynamic and organic choices, ensuring the perfect pairing for every course.

“Maintaining a stable and professionally fulfilled team, ensuring regular menu rotations with more unique ingredients, growing our guest base in a sustainable way that allows us to focus on continuously improving the flavours and surprising Hong Kong foodies with affordable, high-quality dining which you do not have to cross the border to enjoy – these are some of the things I’d like to put down on the list of goals,” shares Chef Fonsesca.

He also stresses the many advantages of developing sustainable business practices: “They enhance employee productivity, reduce cost and can result in increased profits. To make the sustainability initiatives successful, it takes dedication from senior management down to rank-and-file employees to embrace it fully. Its my role to set an example and nurture that spirit among the team through continuous training and education, to create a win-win for our guests, our shareholders and employees, while keeping the environment in the big picture.”

Whisk, 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Whisk – The Mira Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Ankoma Chameleon: Intimate bistro meets refined izakaya at the fine-dining counter manned by local chef Frankie Wong

Exceptional chefs are like chameleons. They may be acknowledged for their mastery of a certain dish or their own cooking style, but what really distinguishes them from their contemporaries is their capacity to transfer and modify their refined method from one culinary endeavour to the next. A range of vast and varied experiences is also often necessary, as well as humility, patience and innate talent. Such is the case for Hong Kong’s very own culinary rising star, Chef Frankie Wong, who is making a breakthrough performance via Ankôma.

“My inspiration comes from all channels – sometimes it is through suppliers explaining ingredients, or me casually browsing on Instagram, and sometimes in my dreams!” laughs Wong of his French-Japanese cuisine. “Each creation goes through much trial and error and many versions.”

A juxtaposition if ever there was one, the fact that fine-dining haven Ankôma is located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui’s bustle has amplified just how versatile Wong is and has pronounced the range in his unrestrained perspective. Unlike the busy scenes on the streets below, the fifth-floor restaurant’s eight-seat marble counter, elegantly set with linen napkins, handsome wine glasses and no-fuss flatware, looks into a modern kitchen of the latest chef’s toys and gadgets. The scene is complemented by Wong’s fabulous talent and a menu focusing on local ingredients.

“Fine dining usually has an image of being very proper, not very commonly accessible and can be quite intimidating for some guests,” says the chef. “In Ankôma, guests can enjoy fine-dining-quality dishes but in a casual environment, like a bistro or izakaya. For those who frequent fine-dining restaurants, it can be a change of scene, a different and refreshing experience from what they are used to.”

Each plate is easy on the eye and tasty on the palate. As Wong personally explains each dish – an essential component of the Ankôma experience – diners will discover that the restraint and simplicity which appear to be the defining characteristics of his cuisine may be more colourful and complex than they first thought.

Our tasting parade begins with zuwaigani, a snow crab tartlet with sherry vinegar sheet and battera kombu floss. The unagi course showcases smoked eel with foie-gras mousse on brioche French toast, while saba, a fatty mackerel cured with apple cider vinegar, kombu and mirin, is complemented by a zesty green apple and jellyfish salad, finished with a kick of wasabi emulsion.

The seasonal hokkigai, a lightly torched surf clam with homemade fish cake, is accompanied by ratatouille consommé, chipolata sausage and coriander. The scallop dish consisting of a buttery pan-fried Hokkaido scallop paired with a cool French bean purée, eggplant purée and vadouvan sauce is the chef’s French take on Indian masala.

The standout dish comes in the form of a roasted piece of the most tender three yellow chicken. Inspired by his Hong Kong upbringing, the local poultry is artistically served with bannonegi (scallion), ikura (salmon roe), creamy vin jaune (yellow wine) sauce and Hokkaido Nanatsuboshi rice.

Other revelations of this tasting menu include how well angel hair pasta pairs with wakame, shiso blossoms and caviar when it has been flavoured with white truffle paste. The next dish presents butter-aged lobster tails cooked over lava stones and topped with daikon oden (simmered radish stew), handmade chilli oil and a sauce of sakura-ebi (shrimp) and kabocha (winter squash).

The dessert of pistachio almond crunch, ganache, mochi and ice cream, as well as offerings of seasonal fruit, make the perfect ending to this sumptuous dinner.

Ankôma’s tasteful contemporary French-Japanese approach proves that striking a balance between revolutionising traditional cuisine and creating an inviting restaurant is a worthwhile pursuit. A collaboration among generations helps heaps, but it’s a collective passion for serving a unique, delicious experience that lights the match.

Ankoma, 5/F, Kam Lung Commercial Centre, 2 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Ankoma Video: Jack Fontanilla

Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience

For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.

Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.

Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”

Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.

The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.

Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.

The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.

Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”

Auor. 4/F, no. 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai
(852) 2866 4888 auor.com.hk

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio Photos: Auor)

Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.

Also Read: Japanese-Italian on your mind? Read our review of Pazzi Isshokenmai

This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.

The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.

Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.

Also Read: Caviar etiquette done right

Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.

Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.

Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.

Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”

Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.

Clarence. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 3568 1397. clerancehk.com

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

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Caviar etiquette done right

It’s every canape’s touch of luxury and fine-dining’s crown jewel… Always a fancy sight at a high-end cocktail party or soirée with a finesse. Served on a bed of crushed ice and delicately plated in dollop sizes, it is a delicacy that elevates any delicious plating — especially when the price tags of these sturgeon roes cost a whopping HK$6,000 per tin of 500g, it would be heartbreaking to serve anything but the best at your extravagant do. Check out our guide on the dos and don’ts of serving caviar:

Temperature

Experts say that the perfect temperature to store caviar is within a range of -2 to 2°C. It’s best to keep the roes chilled by sitting the tin on a bed of crushed ice. However, if you are plating it, whether on canapes or to garnish a plate, scoop the servings fresh from the chiller and never at room temperature for an optimal tasting temperature. Do relish it right there and then, however, opened tins of caviar can stay in the fridge for up to three days.

Do not use metallic utensils

Silverware may be synonymous to fine-dining, but in the case of caviar, using a silver spoon or any other serving utensils made from metal is a big no. Caviar is delicate and absorbs flavours easily. When it comes in contact with silver, it loses some of its naturally delicious flavours and picks up a metallic taste that can totally ruin the diner’s experience.

In place of silverware, serve caviar with a mother of pearl spoon. The material is non-reactive, meaning – it doesn’t hold nor will it transfer any flavour to the roes.

Don’t season caviar

As much as it feels natural to add salt or seasoning to your dishes at the end of the preparation, there is no reason to do so with caviar. These silver-grey or black (and sometimes white) roes are naturally rich and robust in flavours. The pea-sized roes bursts with sensational and mouth-watering flavours that offer a mild tang and creamy butter to the palate.

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What to serve with Caviar

To serve caviar with accompaniments is a choice that offers a wonderful dining experience, whichever way. It is often advised to serve caviar in its tin on a bed of ice because they are so delicate. These eggs break easily and once rupture, the flavours are lost. But if they are to be plated, these pea-sized roes should always be handled with care.

Serve caviar with food that complements its rich flavours, but not overpowers it. A traditional route is serving a spoonful of roes with a traditional Russian blini, a thin buckwheat pancake, and top it with sour cream. Unsalted crackers, hard-boiled eggs, or buttered toasts garnished with chopped chives and a side of crème fraîche are also typical and delicious.

What to drink with Caviar

Pairing champagne with caviar is, although common and a fine match, but did you know that premium vodka is actually the traditional pairing for this delicacy?

Alternatively, any fine dry wine would do well to complement the pop of saltiness from the caviar while balancing its silky rich flavours as well. For a non-alcoholic beverage, any citrus-based mocktail will do well to contrast the saltiness of the caviar.

Also Read: Order these sensational premium caviar at your next soirée…

Yung Kee: A new look at the iconic Cantonese eatery

In a city where restaurants rise and fall according to the admittedly fickle tastes of its discerning diners, Yung Kee is a singular success story. Indeed, the Cantonese eatery is something of an institution, having recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. Despite being internationally renowned today, its roots, however, are humble to the extreme.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining renovation — Newly renovated dining room at Yung Kee

Having begun as a dai pai dong in 1936, Yung Kee moved to a sturdier location in Wing Lok Street in 1942. Two years later, though, during Hong Kong’s occupation by the Japanese, the site was razed by US bombers and had to be rebuilt. Two decades on, Yung Kee finally found its forever home on Wellington Street, and to mark its landmark 80th year, the restaurant underwent significant renovations.

Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining — Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner of Yung Kee

“With the new refurbishment, we’ve ensured that each floor provides a different type of atmosphere to suit diners’ different needs,” says third-generation owner Yvonne Kam. “The ground floor is more for light dining, while the first floor has a ’50s / ’60s teahouse vibe. At the top is our formal dining area, replete with a stunning Dragon Phoenix Hall. We’ve even interspersed various pieces of memorabilia and artworks from Yung Kee’s past, so it’s almost like eating within a majestic living-history museum – one that has evolved alongside the city’s rapid culinary development.”

Multiple nods to the restaurant’s legacy are indeed to be found, from the painstakingly restored handcrafted Italian tiles that were fitted on the first floor in 1964 and the original signage that now graces the contemporary bar area, to the beautifully maintained gold-plated, traditional dragon and phoenix statues and custom-made art punctuating the second-floor grand hall.

dim sum yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining -1 — Yung Kee steamed shrimp and scallop dumpling

Amid this august environment, we kick off our own tasting with a duo of signature dim-sum dishes – Steamed Shrimp and Scallop Dumpling and Supreme Soup Pork Dumpling. The former encompasses delightfully delicate oceanic flavours, while the latter features a single oversized dumpling brimming with soup and a soft pork stuffing.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining 1 — Yung Kee Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet

Next to arrive is Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet, an updated combination of two disparate dishes. Here, the plump bird’s legs have been deboned then sewn up, so not one iota of flavour or moisture can escape. Roasted to perfection, each mouthful combines succulent meat with crispy skin. The fillets, meanwhile, are beautifully tender, with the accompanying asparagus slivers and lily bulb petals adding a welcome textural element.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining — Yung Kee Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail

Another new addition to the menu then hoves into view – Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail. An elevated interpretation of a dim-sum favourite (shrimp toast), this particular iteration sees the base layer of bread covered with a decadent lobster tail, which is then sprinkled with sakura shrimp for a dash of added texture. Crunchy yet subtly flavoured, this is a guaranteed hit for any shellfish aficionado.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining goose — Yung Kee Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose

Rounding out our delicious tasting is a return to that Yung Kee classic – Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose. “The secret behind our iconic roast goose is our Chinese charcoal grill,” explains Kam. “We have the last remaining one in the CBD area, as the government no longer issues new licences for them. By slow-roasting the goose in it, the meat retains a succulent flavour while simultaneously being given a uniquely fragrant smokiness.”

That’s not all, though. The bird in question is no ordinary goose. It’s a purebred black-maned Chinese goose, carefully chosen for its juicy flesh, which is then bathed in a secret marinade that locks in extra flavour. The result is an explosion of fat, meat and saltiness with every bite – a powerfully addictive combination that keeps you coming back for more. Small wonder, then, that this dish, more than any other at Yung Kee, has kept eager epicureans in thrall across the decades.

Yung Kee. 32-40 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2522 1624. yungkee.com.hk

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

Exquisite service, incredible food, attention to detail – a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Central whisked us off to the French Riviera without having to catch a plane. Located in the art-themed complex of H Queen’s on Stanley Street, LPM Restaurant and Bar is a modern brasserie awash in elegant whites, and one of the go-to places in the city for fine French-Mediterranean food minus the fuss or undue flourishes.

Casting off the gloom of a fifth Covid wave in Hong Kong, on a bright winter’s day, we arrive at the stylish, handsomely white-tableclothed restaurant for a lunchtime tasting. Entering through an open patio that seats 14, we are immediately struck by the expansive dining space (LPM accommodates 104 in total), modern architecture and relaxed, welcoming vibe. The interiors are a sunny delight, dotted with carefully curated contemporary artwork from the South of France and its environs.

Modern French gastronomy may not be hot at the moment, but that doesn’t bother head chef Maurizio Pace. “Our food is timeless,” he says, “You really can’t eat a bad French meal, and we’ve designed a classic menu with a contemporary twist. It is labour-intensive, detail-oriented and the execution is flawless.” Armed with more than two decades of culinary experience across Italy, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, Pace steers clear of trends to create new, bold flavours amidst an informality unfamiliar in most traditional French restaurants. Each mouthful here, is an unapologetic food adventure, one that is not easily forgotten or recreated elsewhere.
From a menu exhibiting a wide confluence of classics, the chef prepares four courses of earthy fare for this vegetarian. Once seated, the server comes forth with a plate of Italian tomatoes, lemon and olive oil to “make your own salad”. Ripe and bursting with flavour, it’s an entertaining start to escape the wait for entrées which are prepared in the open kitchen.

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Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts — Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts

We begin with Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts. Bitter and twisted, endives are an acquired taste, but once you’re accustomed, there’s no looking back. Sliced and bathed in a tangy dressing of mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil, the chicory is topped with apple slices, a mound of cheese and crispy caramelised nuts.

Our taste buds thus shocked out of hibernation, we’re ready to dig deep into Black Truffle with Burrata. Fresh, milky burrata cheese flown straight from Italy is served with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous shaving of European black truffle. This delicious marriage of earthy, aromatic ingredients can be savoured all winter long.

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French diningHomemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes — Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes

Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes is a humble, comforting dish – flavourfully packed with herbs but not piled with cream, and most importantly not leaving a sinking feeling in the mouth like some pasta creations. It’s served with the right amount of piquancy, warmth and salt, and I can imagine children getting wild for it.

LPM offers an exhaustive wine list, as well as cocktails that are beyond impressive. Bar Manager Benjamin Boyce, stirs a complex, magical potion for Beauty and the Beast, a mildly sweet and invigorating mix of Ketel One vodka, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, strawberry, fennel cordial and yellow Chartreuse.

The heady cocktails are outdone by the calorie-dense dessert of Vanilla Cheesecake with Berry Compote. A faultlessly smooth, unassuming wedge comes with the promise of airy lightness, the thin crunchy base and the tartness of mixed berries prove to be exactly the sort of old-school sweetness I’d wage a fork-war over.
The undisputed simplicity and freshness of ingredients here, prepared with love and respect, make you crave for a leisurely Saint-Tropez holiday, and it’s this ability to captivate and transport diners that has built LPM such a solid local clientele.

Also Read: The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong

LPM Restaurant and Bar. H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central. (852) 2887 1113. lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong

(Text: Nikita Mishra Pictures: LPM Restaurant and Bar)

A fine Mediterranean dining experience at Salisterra

For over a decade, the top-most floor of The Upper House – the Admiralty-set five-star hospitality hotspot – was occupied by Cafe Grey Deluxe, the hotel’s all-day dining venue. At the end of 2020, however, it shuttered its doors for good and, in April, was reborn as Salisterra, a Mediterranean-inspired fine-dining establishment.

Boasting picturesque panoramas across Victoria Harbour, the new eatery is helmed by London-based, Michelin-starred Chef Jun Tanaka, with its everyday operations overseen by Chef de Cuisine Chris Czerwinski. As one might expect, opening a restaurant with an ongoing pandemic was a serious challenge. Explaining these obstacles, Czerwinski says: “With Chef Jun based in London and travel restrictions firmly in place, we had to open without his ever having tasted any of Salisterra’s dishes in person. It took a lot of Zoom conferences and frantic exchanges to make it happen.”

“Nevertheless, the end result is something we’re truly proud of,” he continues, “and we strive to serve authentic Mediterranean-inspired flavours that showcase iconic dishes from the coastal regions of France and Italy.”

Eager to sample this culinary philosophy for ourselves, we tucked into our tasting menu with much anticipation. First to arrive was a cold appetiser of Flamed Saba Mackerel, a beautifully plated dish featuring six delicate slivers of fish garnished with refreshing pickled cucumbers and capers.

Next to arrive was one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, the Langoustine Ravioli. This is, as Chef Czerwinski explained, a true labour of love, with the jus of the shellfish requiring hours upon hours to reduce to just the right consistency and condensed flavour, with the ravioli pasta also made fresh in-house daily. Within each dumpling lies a full langoustine and paired with a lush scallop mousse, with tart tomatoes balancing the dish’s oceanic accents.

Then, the Pickled Carrots with Coconut Yoghurt hoved into view. In a city as meat-obsessed as Hong Kong, it’s unusual to be served a vegetarian dish as a main course, but it definitely did not disappoint. Here, the slices of pickled carrots – all grown and harvested from The Upper House’s own organic garden – pack quite a visual punch, all purples, oranges and yellows. Hidden underneath is the coconut yoghurt, whose sweet creaminess perfectly ties in with the crunchiness of the carrots. A sprinkle of fried garlic, meanwhile, bequeaths the dish with a lovely umami finish.

Scarcely had we finished when the next course Market Fish with Lemon Confit, Miso, Fennel and Radish – arrived tableside. Yet another of Salisterra’s signatures and a quintessential example of Mediterranean cuisine, the whole grilled snapper is heaped with thinly sliced slivers of pickled radish and turnips. A great sharing platter, local diners who prefer their seafood steamed or subtly flavoured may find it unusual. Nonetheless, it’s a refreshing, light main that leaves a strong impression.

Finally, with our appetites nearly satiated, we concluded our tasting with a beautiful Fresh Strawberry Tartlette. Unlike the savoury part of the menu, this is truly rich decadence at its very finest, with the pastry filled with creme de patisserie, topped with a tartly sweet strawberry gel and capped with a white chocolate mousse. The attraction of this dessert is that – thanks to its disparate parts – every bite tastes slightly different, making each mouthful something of a gastronomic adventure. The accompanying scoop of strawberry sorbet is a deft addition, cutting through the tartlette’s richness with aplomb.

Salisterra. 49/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admirality. (852) 3968 1106. salisterra.thehousecollective.com

Suchic: The chicest sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio

Typically, izakayas – Japan’s singular take on the more informal form of hostelry – are seen as smoky, rowdy drinking dens, places where the food takes a back seat to the serious business of boozing. Many, however, now boast more of a 21st century ethos, something that one intrepid Hong Kong restaurant is looking to capitalise on by offering a vibrant range of delicious and delicate Nipponese dishes. The establishment in question of course, is Silencio, one of the best-kept secrets on the sixth floor of Central’s LKF Tower.

Having first opened its doors two years ago, it is now under new management in the form of recently-arrived Executive Chef Sato Kiyoshi, a Japanese-born culinary whizz who earnt his spurs with stints in Australia, London, Singapore as well as back in his homeland. Acknowledging the impact his international experiences have had on his personal style, he says: “Thankfully, I had the opportunity to work under some true masters, and I think their passion for experimenting with flavours and improvising with ingredients made a strong impression on me. Their creative spirit and culinary flair is something I strive to recreate for all the diners who come to Silencio.”

Eager to see this philosophy in action, we began our tasting with a beautifully plated amuse bouche – Seasonal Otoshi. Here, set atop a bed of seaweed, could be found three spherical raw seafood bites with scallop and multiple cuts of tuna. The former was, undoubtedly, the most unusual of these and came with green apple and topped with a subtle apple dashi jelly as a refreshingly tangy palate cleanser.

Then it was on to the first appetiser – Tuna Trio. As the name suggests, this take on nigiri sushi saw three cuts of tuna – a sliver each of a lean akami, a medium-fat chutoro and a fatty otoro – layered atop each other on a bed of rice. A deft balancing act, each mouthful allowed for comprehensive appreciation for the myriad flavours of this much-coveted fish dish. A dash of soy sauce the sole accompaniment, it imparted delightful umami notes to each biteful.

Staying with the cold course motif, next to arrive was the Aki – Pomard beef tartare topped with medallions of pear and radish, all served with an intriguing black rice cracker. A veritable study in textures, the subtle meatiness of the beef was, in turn, enhanced with the sweetness of the pear and juiciness of the radish, with the accompanying creamy hollandaise sauce imparting a touch of richness to proceedings.
Then, with more than a hint of flourish, Chef Sato served up the most visually stunning plate of the session – Sakura. Taking its cue from the eponymous flower that is so well loved by the Japanese, the dish featured flowering petals of pink, purple and white radish, all laid upon squared cubes of tuna. Underpinning this was a unique sauce, comprising nori seaweed oil and a paste reduced from last year’s crushed cherry blossom petals. Undeniably tart, this ceviche-esque dish once again showcased the chef’s indisputable knack for integrating strong flavours into surprisingly nuanced plates.

The final savoury course then took its turn on the table in the form of Wagyu, a decadent steak dish featuring perfectly-cooked slivers of medium-rare beef presented amid a white garlic cream and a dense black garlic jus. Brimming with rich umami flavours, the dual garlic sauces nevertheless allowed the melt-in-your-mouth morsels of beef to shine through, with the accompanying chives and makomotake – a type of fungal root – bringing an added layer of crunchiness.

To round off our tasting, Chef Sato once again dipped into the rich cuisine-related traditions of his homeland serving up the distinctly snowy winter-themed dessert, Hokkaido. Startlingly monochromatic, this all-white treat forefronted brown butter ice cream atop a Hokkaido milk cream base, all topped with crunchy dehydrated milk crackers. Comprising a veritable torrent of textures, this deliciously creamy concoction once again showcased the chef’s signature style pairing visually arresting plating with a riot of flavours. All, of course, balanced to perfection.

Fresh dining options: New restaurants helmed by newly-arrived chefs

Now that dining restrictions are gradually getting lifted, it’s high time to explore new restaurants that started operating only this year and which feature newly-arrived chefs from overseas. Here are some of the newly-opened restaurants that offer a range of dishes, including an exotic mixed Spanish-Japanese cuisine:

Ando

Along Wellington Street, nestled on the 1st floor of the Somptueux Central building is the chic dining space of Jia Groups’ Ando by Chef Ferrando Balbi. Their modern tasting menu combines Chef Balbi’s Spanish roots with his expertise in Japanese cuisine. Priced at $780 per person for a six-course lunch menu which focuses on a different ‘hero’ ingredient every month. One of their signature dishes includes a dish that reflects on the chef’s own childhood lunch favorites, the rice caldoso cooked in three stocks, and Japanese rice that is simmered in low heat for eight hours.

Cobo House

Cobo house reopens with a fresh new concept and direction featuring an ‘unspoken’ tasting menu of western dishes. Settled on the sixth floor of the K11 Musea, the Bohemian lifestyle fine dining restaurant presents its four-course lunch menu designed by executive chefs Ray Choi and Devon Hou, both trained in Michelin-starred restaurants. The menu offers newly curated edible art every six weeks at $680 per head.

Sushi Haru

Although relatively new to the art of Edomae, Masterchef Motoharu Inazuka has proven his dedication to the craft of sushi-making which has led him to Hong Kong to lead one Black Sheep Restaurants’ new ventures, Sushi Haru. Offering Omakase style menu based on ingredients delivered fresh on the day. Lunch at this exclusive eight-seater dining space will set patrons back $1000 per person but they can enjoy quality service and the company of Chef Inazuka himself. Reservations may need to be made a month ahead of time.

Fresh dining options New restaurants helmed by newly-arrived chefs gafencu magazine Honsik Goo — (Image from Honsik Goo)

Hansik Goo

Top Michelin Starred Korean Chef Mingoo Kang delivers to Hong Kong Hansik Goo, a Korean restaurant in Central with a creatively innovative flare. In a four-courses or full seven-course tasting menu priced at $480 and $780 respectively. There is also the option to add on some of the restaurants more popular dishes which are the Korean Fried Chicken with Yuza Jang and Paejon seafood pancake with scallion.

Find more information at the restaurants’ official websites by clicking the links below:

Ando

Cobo House

Sushi Haru

Hansik Goo