HARBOUR OF HARMONY: Settle back at Minato’s teppan tables for a serene seasonal voyage through bountiful Japan

Minato has been quietly redefining the Japanese dining experience since opening in Wan Chai last summer. It’s an oasis of the calm and contemplation where aficionados can immerse themselves in the seasonality, craftsmanship and quiet luxury of elevated teppanyaki, kaiseki, omakase and sushi.

The very name Minato, which means harbour in Japanese, sets the tone for an occasion that promotes refuge and cultural exchange. The urban hustle outside quickly fades into stillness as we are graciously steered through serene, spacious surroundings to our table. Shoji screens diffuse soft lighting, wooden elements add organic warmth, and a palette of calming green tones enhances the aura of elegant minimalism.

The Tsubaki Weekend Teppanyaki Dinner Set is also aptly named – the camellia (tsubaki) is a symbol of grace and beauty in Japanese culture, and the nine-course culinary journey we embark upon is as delicately balanced and elegantly structured as the flower. The set encapsulates the ethos of Minato – seasonal stories told through flavour, aroma, temperature and timing.

A meticulously plated appetiser prepares the stage for an artful presentation of toro, botan shrimp and striped jack flown in daily from Japan’s fish markets. The sashimi course is not just a tasting but a quiet meditation on freshness and balance.

The toro is rich and luxuriously marbled, melting on the tongue with a buttery smoothness that defines top-grade fatty belly of the bluefin tuna. Prized for its size and sweetness, the botan shrimp arrives with a translucent hue, its plump flesh offering a crisp snap and lingering ocean sweetness. The white trevally, with its clean, lightly oily profile, offers a refined contrast to the other two cuts.

We continue with two seafood treasures cooked on the teppan with care. Black tiger prawn is plump and meaty, its natural sweetness enhanced by minimal seasoning and masterful handling. The crustacean is grilled until just opaque, releasing a subtle, smoky aroma.

Accompanying it is South African abalone, thinly sliced to preserve its tenderness yet retain its characteristic chewy texture and deep, mineral-rich flavour. Lightly seasoned and seared, the prized mollusc is a study in restraint, underscoring how expert technique and quality ingredients can speak volumes without embellishment.

At the heart of the Tsubaki set is Minato’s crown jewel: A5 Miyazaki sliced wagyu beef. Boasting a BMS (beef marbling score) of 12 – the highest rating – this world-renowned wagyu is sourced from Miyazaki Prefecture, where cattle are raised under strict conditions to deliver beef of incomparable quality. The wagyu is lightly seared and wrapped with garlic and green onion, a simple but brilliant pairing that enhances its umami depth without distracting from its intrinsic richness. The beef glistens as it hits the plate, and each bite yields an exquisite juxtaposition of seared outer edge and melting interior.

Then comes another house signature, Japanese pepper with whitebait fried rice, a dish as comforting as it is refined. With sansho pepper adding a gentle numbing tingle, the crispy whitebait offers bright, comforting contrast to the indulgent wagyu we have just enjoyed. Here again, the balance between richness and freshness is maintained with elegant precision – a hallmark of Japanese cuisine.

Seasonal vegetables follow, grilled to accentuate their natural sweetness and earthiness; next, a warming bowl of miso soup and a serving of house pickles. These familiar elements return the elevated dining experience to its humble roots while cleansing the palate in preparation for the final course.

A beautifully crafted dessert of green tea roll cake paired with red bean mochi completes the journey, focusing on light textures and harmonious flavours rather than strong sweetness. Our meal is enhanced by attentive yet unobtrusive service and sake selections to augment each course.

Dining at Minato is an invitation to pause and immerse yourself fully in the moment. There is no excess, no flamboyance – only harmony, balance and deep respect for the culinary traditions of Japan.

Minato. G/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel: 2345 0663. minato.com.hk

Text: Jill Trip

Full Throttle: From motorbike dashing to restaurant dreams, Michael Larkin rides the crest of culinary adventure

As the sun beams down on a Monday afternoon in Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, the city is alive with movement. Among the thrumming heartbeat of the metropolis, Michael Larkin makes his entrance at Lala, the restaurant he co-founded this February, still sporting his motorcycle helmet like a badge of honour. Having hopped off his bike and shaken off the remnants of his morning errands, he is ready to dive into the world of culinary creation – and just for today, magazine modelling.

Larkin chuckles as he glances around the vibrant Parisian-style eatery adorned with lush greenery and the tantalising aroma of exquisitely crafted dishes. “This is a different kind of day for me,” he admits, positioning the helmet on the nearest table. “Most mornings, I wake up early in my home away from Central, get in my step count barefoot, and whip up breakfast for my girlfriend and our two dogs. It’s a soothing start before the restaurant chaos.”

The serial culinary co-founder reflects on the reality of restaurant ownership with a hint of a grin. “I have to do almost everything. Is it tiring? Yes. But is it efficient? Absolutely. I want specific results, so I opt to do things myself – from décor plants to spoons and forks, ingredients, and everything in between.”

Flavourful childhood

Larkin’s journey into the world of food and hospitality did not spring from the ordinary, but rather from a rich tapestry of experiences spun by his parents. Their establishment, The Dubliner ¬– the first Irish pub in Romania – created a vibrant backdrop to his childhood. For young Michael, the pub was a home, and the patrons, his extended family.

“My parents opened the pub [in 1994], and it was an instant hit,” he says with nostalgia. “I spent my days there, doing my homework, washing glasses, and learning from the regulars. We treated every guest like family. We ate together, played games, celebrated, and mourned losses – they were my friends.”

This profound understanding of community and hospitality has shaped his welcoming approach at Lala. “My dad was a fantastic cook,” he adds. “Hosting was his love language, which inspired my passion for cooking. It became less about the food and more about bringing people together.”

Lessons from London

Before landing in Hong Kong hospitality management almost a decade ago, Larkin honed his skills in the culinary hotbed of London. The experience was electric, mentoring under industry greats and realising his potential in the competitive market. “I was inspired by the energy around me,” he recalls. “One pivotal moment was looking at the managers above me and asking, ‘What is stopping me from doing what they’re doing?’ The answer was nothing.”

When he finally took that leap into entrepreneurship, he understood the challenge that awaited him. “I knew I couldn’t rely on working for others forever. You hit those glass ceilings, and it stifles your growth. I preferred to create my own opportunities,” he states earnestly. In 2021, he co-founded late-night venue Quality Goods Club in Hollywood Road, and the following year Artifact Bar in Jardine House.

Mentorship played a formidable role in his development, particularly having the chance to work under Jonathan Murray, a consultant renowned for his unwavering standards. “Jonathan taught me what it means to be ruthless with quality,” he affirms. In his three years at Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, he crossed paths with French chef Franckelie Laloum, formerly of Louise and now his partner at Lala. “Having mentors like Yenn Wong and Franckelie by my side throughout the founding of Lala instilled in me the power of perseverance and resilience,” he says.

Cue La La

Larkin and Laloum realised they needed to design a concept that stood out in Central’s competitive dining scene. “We were mindful that we were entering a post-Covid era and people would be more conscious of their dining experiences,” he explains. “So, we focused on going back to the basics – giving people what they want.”

Lala – named after the first two letters of the duo’s surnames – isn’t just another restaurant; it’s an approachable haven tailored for the community, which is significant in a city where trends fluctuate rapidly. Larkin emphasises that compromised quality is not an option. “Hongkongers are discerning. We focus on balance – quality ingredients and cooking that provide great value,” he stresses.

Consistency is critical, too. “It’s easy to be good for one day, but to do it for 365 days a year? That’s the challenge,” he muses, noting that he treats every dining experience like a maestro conducting an orchestra.

Spurs of success

For him, success transcends mere financial gain. “I’m super competitive and quickly get bored,” he confesses. “I love the challenge of creating memorable experiences for our guests. When our dining room buzzes with joy, it’s music to my ears – it’s beautiful to be part of that.”

Defining success extends beyond the walls of Lala. It introduces a deeper conversation about happiness: “Success isn’t synonymous with happiness. They’re distinct. Happiness comes from being on the path to success – working hard and enjoying the ride.”

He shares his personal benchmark for measuring success in an ever-evolving industry: “Cities and trends change; staying adaptable is crucial. If venues don’t pivot, they’ll find themselves struggling.” And as for his secret to maintaining a healthy work-life balance? A serious commitment to fitness and a peaceful escape.

“Lamma Island is my oasis,” he declares, his face lighting up. “Waking up to bird songs, a stroll to the beach with my dogs. It provides a respite from the intense restaurant life.” The support of his girlfriend, Alexia, is equally vital; slipstreaming into his professional journey, she helps select his outfits and ensures he brings balance into his life.

Here to serve

As Larkin reflects on the essence of happiness, he acknowledges the struggles many face in the hospitality sector. “It’s not easy,” he states bluntly. “The hours are brutal; managing relationships and mental health can be tough. I prioritise staying healthy and away from excessive drinking; that gives me the best chance to succeed.”

For aspiring restaurateurs, he shares wise counsel. “Don’t expect it to be easy; it rarely is. Know that if it were uncomplicated, anyone could do it. Embrace the struggle because that’s what makes life rich,” he encourages, a knowing smile cracking his focus. As we wrap up the interview, Alexia makes a surprise appearance, bringing a burst of warm geniality into the room. Her presence serves to remind him of the support system that fuels his endeavour.

“I’ve been calling Hong Kong my home for quite some time now,” he concludes, gazing out into the cityscape. “Its diverse offerings reflect the duality I strive for: the hustle of a city and the calm of an island. Lala embodies that balance – offering authentic, exquisite food while embracing a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.”

With a wave, he dismisses the notion of separation between the busy city glamour and the tranquillity of home, both personally and professionally. In the beautiful madness of Hong Kong, Michael Larkin has found ways to cultivate not just a restaurant but a lifestyle filled with joy, quality and community.

Tapas Untamed: Experience the flowing flavours and boundless vibrancy of a Spanish fiesta at Qué Pasa

With its inviting juxtaposition of warm-bricked and pale-painted walls, large open windows that let in the afternoon sun, and a high, exposed ceiling adorned with tanks of flowing signature drinks, you can feel the lively Spanish spirit the moment you step inside Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino. Making its debut last November, this Tai Hang haven has rapidly become the go-to hotspot for comforting tapas and expertly charred grilled dishes. It delightfully blends great value with bold flavours that echo the vibrancy of its Spanish roots.

Diners flock here not just for the tantalising dishes but also for the lively atmosphere that encourages communal dining – something Chef Amaru Morales, the culinary mastermind behind the restaurant, aims to celebrate. He is passionate about authenticity and flavour, and his commitment shines through each dish. From the toasted Tomato Bread to the lavish Ham Bikini, each offering has been perfected with painstaking detail. A personal favourite? The Gazpacho – a refreshing blend of ripe tomatoes and aromatic garlic that bursts with flavour and is perfect for cleansing the palate.

“Tapas is all about sharing, celebrating and enjoying food with others,” says Morales. “Creating an inclusive dining culture allows guests to explore diverse flavours, just as you would with family-style dining back in Latin America.”

Indulge in crowd-pleasing choices like juicy Spanish Meatballs braised in tomato sauce and Braised Tripe Stew, a dish slow-cooked for more than six hours that melts in your mouth. For those seeking heartier gratification, Qué Pasa has options that will leave you grinning from ear to ear. The char-grilled 250g Ribeye Steak and ¼ Suckling Pig are the stars of a tempting charcoal-oven listing that will undoubtedly satisfy any untamed cravings.

On weekends, Qué Pasa presents an à la carte brunch that encourages diners to mix and match their Spanish-inspired favourites. Fancy a luxurious start to your day? Awaken your taste buds with the likes of Eggs Flamenco or Steak and Eggs for a decadent meal that’s bound to invoke lazy Sunday vibes. Elevate your brunch with a selection of add-on tapas such as Boquerones (anchovies) and crispy Croquettes of mushroom or cod, or even freshly shucked Oysters that simply scream indulgence.

Oh, and let’s not forget the drinks: a 90-minute free-flow package includes refreshing Spanish cava, house wines and vibrant mocktails. What more can you ask for on a leisurely weekend?

As we explore the culinary offerings of Qué Pasa, it’s impossible not salute the creative genius behind the menu. Born in Ecuador and raised in Chile, Chef Amaru’s culinary journey echoes the rich heritage of Spanish cuisine infused with South American charm. “I was exposed to a melange of tastes while working across continents – from mastering French techniques in Hong Kong to embracing the heartiness of South American cooking,” he shares excitedly. “Now, I pour all that into creating a menu that champions authenticity while offering Hong Kong diners a taste of home.”

His passion for ethical kitchen practices is equally commendable. Partnering with environmentally-conscious seafood suppliers, the chef ensures that patrons savour fresh and sustainable dishes that honour Mother Earth while delighting the palate.

Not only is Qué Pasa dedicated to serving delectable dishes, but it is also committed to being an active community hub. “We strive to create a warm ambience where diners feel like family,” reflects Morales. The restaurant features large communal tables and an open kitchen that invites all-comers to watch the magic as it happens – a reminder that food is best enjoyed together.

In line with its community spirit, Qué Pasa regularly hosts events and workshops to promote culinary engagement, letting you bask in the joy of sharing incredible experiences as well as food.

So, slip into your comfiest shoes, gather your friends and family, and head over to Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino for a congenial culinary adventure that promises to leave you craving more. After all, who can resist a fiesta of flavours, warmth and laughter?

Que Pasa. GF, 98 Tung Lo Wan Rd, Tai Hang, Hong Kong Tel: +852 9169 0298. quepasatapas.com

Photos: Que Pasa Tapas y Vino Video: Jack Fontanilla

Flight of the Falcone: The pizzeria’s neo-Neapolitan wonders can be savoured at a new outpost atop The Peak

Stepping into Falcone’s vibrant new space at The Peak, we are immediately greeted by a cascade of colours and the inviting warmth of an enormous, golden brick oven – a majestic piece that feels like the heart of the kitchen. Chef Roberta De Sario stands beside her custom-made Pavesi pizza oven, grinning like a proud parent. “I love it here!” she declares with a cheeky smile. “It’s the perfect place for me because it can get too cold outside sometimes.” The contrast between her infectious fervour and the chilly mountain-top breeze sets the tone for a delightful meal.

Falcone is more than just a restaurant; it is a celebration of the chaos and beauty of Naples, the Italian city known for its animated streets, tantalising food and robust flavours. It’s not every day you witness chefs merging traditional techniques with modern twists, but that’s the magic recipe at Falcone. De Sario, who has spent over a decade honing her craft and was recently named among the 100 best pizza chefs in the world, and Chef Josh Stumbaugh, whose light-hearted connection to falcon breeding undoubtedly adds an intriguing twist to the story, invite diners into their world of neo-Neapolitan delights.

When Chef Roberta is asked what inspired her to introduce this take on pizza- and pasta-centric cuisine to Hong Kong’s culinary landscape, the Neapolitan responds with palpable passion: “I wanted to share a piece of my heritage, with the energy, passion and history of our pizza embedded in every slice.” With this philosophy in mind, we belly up to the table, ready to experience something both familiar and refreshingly innovative.

The adventure begins with Zuppa di Ceci e Vongole, a chickpea and clam soup that takes us right to the Campanian coastline. Chef Josh describes it as an homage to the region’s fishermen, who look to hearty chickpeas to provide much-needed protein when they are out on their boats. When the legumes are paired with Manila clams and a briny sauce finished with a drizzle of olive oil, each spoonful feels like a warm hug on a cool day. The attention to detail, with roasted rosemary adding a fragrant note, is a chef’s kiss moment.

Next comes Strozzapreti Basilico e Tonno, a finely crafted hand-rolled pasta with vivid green basil pesto, sundried tomatoes and exquisite tuna confit. “It’s a delicious mix of fresh basil and tangy sundried tomato, and it hits the land and sea perspective of Campania,” he explains. Each bite dances on the palate, balancing simplicity and vibrancy in perfect harmony.

Apart from the signature pizzas, baked for longer and at a lower temperature than the common Neapolitan slices, Falcone’s pièce de résistance is a dolci. Torta dell’Ubriacone, a citrus ‘hangover cake’ that embodies Naples’ spirit, is the ideal note to finish the meal. Moist and zesty, it captures the heights of flavour and offers a light-hearted sweetness. As we take the last bite, we cannot help but feel just a bit lighter, as if we too have soared above the city on a golden falcon.

Before we bid adieu, we have one last chance to chat with the chefs about their philosophies. De Sario offers sage advice for aspiring pizzaiolos: “Master the art with passion, uphold tradition, but don’t be afraid to innovate!” Stumbaugh chimes in, echoing the importance of storytelling in every dish, whether traditional or inspired by their travels. “Each plate should tell a story, reflecting the people and places that shaped us,” he opines.

The soul of Falcone lies not only in its incredible food but also in the community forged between chefs and guests. The moment the first diners sit at their pink and green upholstered chairs, the irresistible spirit of Naples fills the air. Chef Roberta reminisces: “On the opening night, I had tears of joy in my eyes, seeing people embrace the spirit of Naples.” For Chef Josh, the laughter and commingling of voices bring a sense of family, proving that food is about connection, whether on the edge of a bustling city or at the top of The Peak.

At Falcone, the energy of Naples intertwines with the essence of Hong Kong while forging unforgettable memories, and the sky is truly the limit.

Falcone, Shop G02, G/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak

Photos: Falcone Video: Jack Fontanilla

Nikkei Indulgence: A Peruvian-Japanese fusion master weaves culinary originality within the dreamscapes of Honjo

Tucked away in the vibrant neighbourhood of Sheung Wan lies one of the dining world’s best-kept secrets: Honjo. With its innovative spirit and a twist on traditional tastes, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine has captured the hearts (and stomachs) of locals and visitors alike – or, as their tasting menus highlight, Dreamers and Travellers. So if you are a foodie ready for an edible adventure, buckle your taste buds – things are about to get deliciously progressive.

With the arrival of Executive Chef Sandro Montero’s new à la carte menu, Honjo takes diners on a spectacular culinary journey that pays homage to Japanese techniques while incorporating rich, global flavours. You may be wondering what in the world a South American chef is doing serving Japanese cuisine in Hong Kong, but never fear – Montero brings some serious flair to the dining scene that you won’t want to miss.

The Peruvian culinary wizard’s almost 20 years of experience has taken him from the colourful streets of Lima to Brazil, Indonesia and beyond, armed with a fascinating take on Nikkei cuisine – Peruvian-Japanese fusion – that masterfully blends familiar tastes with unexpected elements. “My transition from Peruvian and Nikkei cuisine to Japanese dining at Honjo has been an exciting challenge,” shares the globetrotting chef, who landed in Hong Kong in October last year. “I believe my diverse background allows me to create culinary experiences that surprise and delight.”

He certainly delivers on this assertion. Honjo’s menu is a tantalising tapestry of gastronomical delights. From the very first bite of the unagi – a sweet, smoky fried eel sushi that’s dressed to impress with parmesan spicy sauce and a luscious tobiko mix – to a delicate hamachi salad drizzled with vibrant yuzu, your taste buds will be doing a happy little dance!

For those with a penchant for deep-sea delicacies, plump oysters luxuriate in a zesty yuzu, ponzu and sriracha dressing that won’t fail to leave you dreaming of ocean breezes and sandy shores. Who needs a beach when you can travel to Japan via Thailand and back with just a few mouthwatering bites? Lobster maki, meanwhile, is a truly extravagant roll, perfectly sous vide and topped with tempura asparagus and creamy mayo mentaiko sauce, that makes you question all past sushi experiences.

If you’re into group outings, diving into one of Honjo’s tasting menus is highly recommended. Whether The Dreamer or The Traveller, each weaves a captivating culinary narrative through evolving seasonal dishes that shout creativity and passion. Inventive sake and wine pairings heighten the drama. “The inspiration behind the menus is capturing the journeys we take in life,” shares Montero. “Each experience is designed to encourage guests to return time and time again.”

A chef is only as good as their team, and Chef Sandro is clearly a master of his art. “The team is the backbone of our kitchen, and every one of their contributions has shaped the vision for Honjo,” he elaborates. It shows, too – their harmonious work ethic and respect for ingredients breathe life into every dish, and a culture of joy and discipline is championed on each plate.

Stepping into Honjo is like entering a vibrant dreamscape of colours and textures that nod to Japanese aesthetics. It’s not just dining; it’s an event with themed rooms that allow you to escape the mundane. You find yourself daydreaming about the next dish – a comforting, sweet-savoury bowl of seafood kamameshi, perhaps, cooked in an iron pot that will surely warm the heart and fill the soul.

Whether you are a sushi novice or a raw-fish aficionado, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine offers a sensational experience that promises not only satisfaction but also surprises galore. Prepare your palate for an unforgettable journey – you might just find your new happy place in this delightful blend of tradition and innovation.

Honjo. 1/F, 77-91 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Photos: Honjo Video: Jack Fontanilla

Clarence De Lune: A new Michelin-starred chef lights up fresh French dining amid dazzling night views

Clarence has become a new culinary beacon under the guidance of Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt, a fresh arrival from acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in France. As he unveils his inaugural dinner menu, the excitement is palpable. DeSchmitt seems utterly thrilled to dive into the vibrant melting pot that is Hong Kong. “My journey in Asia is not just a professional shift; it’s about rediscovering my love for food through fresh perspectives,” he shares.

With chic décor combined with 25th-floor views that dazzle over bustling streets, the atmosphere removes any notion of pretentiousness while maintaining a refined aura. “It’s essential to create a space that feels both inviting and sophisticated,” notes the chef. And this restaurant achieves just that.

Dinner opens with the beef tartare served in bone marrow topped with a side of baguette toast. This dish is a jazz concert of textures and flavours, where the robust richness of the marrow encounters the delicate nuances of tender raw beef, all while a crispy crostini adds a relay of crunch. Schmitt remarks: “I wanted to modernise classic dishes. This tartare honours French traditions but introduces different textures for a surprising and fresh experience.”

Should you be seeking meat-less delight, look no further than beetroot and fresh goat cheese ravioli, a play of sweetness enveloped in divine pasta. The accompanying beetroot juice lends a colourful vibrance while ginger and lime pull everything into balance, revealing a dish that is as beautiful as it is delicious. Schmitt’s personal favourites infiltrate the menu; this ravioli harkens back to his admiration for artisanal goat’s cheese discovered in the South of France.

For those who find joy in the ocean’s gifts, smoked salmon with potato waffle dances over the palate, and BBQ octopus with potato foam delivers succulent tenderness that imparts warmth and satisfaction without crossing into heaviness. Clarence encourages patrons to embrace the camaraderie of shared dining; each dish has been crafted not only to tantalise the senses but also to foster moments of togetherness – the intent is for diners to savour flavours while creating memories alongside family and friends.

Transitioning into mains, beef fillet and foie gras pithivier stands as a beacon of indulgence. The dish teams luxurious beef and foie gras encased in flaky pastry with a truffle vinaigrette salad. It’s a decadent juxtaposition of textures designed to transcend through freshness. Schmitt reflects on this creation, noting the artistry of the pastry craft: “Each element must blend into a harmonious experience.”

Seafood aficionados will rejoice in skate wing cooked on the bone, where brown butter and spices add a depth that feels comforting. Paired with an endive and Comté salad, the freshness of the greens cuts through the richness of the fish – a perfect dance of flavours with each bite yielding a new sensory revelation.

End your meal with the chef’s playful take on dessert. Croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream steals the show, marrying the crispy delights of croissant-cum-waffle into one daring vessel of sweetness. And if your heart longs for warmth, hot chocolate moelleux, with its molten chocolate centre served with sumptuous ice cream, promises sweet surrender.

Beyond the dishes lies a dining philosophy that emphasises seasonality and local ingredients, and Schmitt passionately invokes the necessity of this connection. The use of Japanese sea urchin, for instance, reflects his adaptability to local produce while maintaining the finesse of his French roots. “This balance highlights how local Asian ingredients can reinvent classic dishes,” he explains.

Clarence’s carefully curated and affordably priced dinner menu offers an exceptional experience, reinforcing the new chef’s vision of a dining journey where every detail has been examined.

True enough, Clarence is a testament to the magic unleashed when French tradition interlaces with the vibrant essence of Asia. Bon appétit!

Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong

Photos: Clarence Video: Jack Fontanilla

Palate Playground: Modern Indian wonderland Leela is joyfully rooted in the flavours of a vast culinary heritage

The name Leela stems from the Hindu concept of ‘divine play’, and what better way to embody that than with a menu that dances between the ancient and the avant-garde? Chef Manav Tuli, an Indian gastronomy virtuoso, helms the kitchen with infectious passion and an innovative approach to traditional recipes. Each dish is a vibrant palette of colours and spices, telling its own story while being anchored in India’s rich culinary heritage.

As the seasons change, so too does the menu, unveiling a slew of new creations crafted to tantalise the taste buds while paying homage to regional Indian inspirations. One standout is jackfruit and soya keema dabeli, an imaginative reinterpretation of a beloved street food from Gujarat that, with its tangy tamarind chutney and luscious caramelised onions, conjures the all-consuming sensation of strolling through the bustling markets of India.

“My approach has always been to present food authentically while incorporating Ayurvedic principles and local ingredients,” explains Chef Tuli. “I believe in preserving the soul of Indian cuisine by honouring our roots while giving individual ingredients the attention they deserve through optimal cooking methods. This process is ever-evolving and represents an exciting journey for any chef.”

A collaboration between Tuli – formerly of Chaat – and Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, Leela opened late last year and already has awards in the bag, including the prestigious Michelin Recommended Restaurant accolade. The modern Indian oasis is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for foodies and culture-seekers alike.

If it’s culinary nostalgia you crave, look no further than the chef’s chicken tikka kulcha. This delightful dish fuses juicy grilled chicken with pillowy Indian flatbread, accompanied by marinated onions and an animated mint and tomato chutney. Chicken tikka mirza hasnu pays tribute to the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah, inviting anyone to savour char-grilled chicken infused with a symphony of spices such as cloves, cardamom and smoky mango powder.

For seafood enthusiasts, tandoori squid emerges as a masterpiece, showcasing tandoor-charred U3 squid marinated in Kashmiri chilli. And if anyone considers lamb a monotonous affair, they’ll have to think again. Kandhari lamb chop morphs into a succulent delight with ginger juice and pomegranate marrying the rich flavours of Afghanistan’s Kandahar region.

Diners can also indulge in duck jardaloo, a Parsi classic reimagined with duck breast, soaked in the divine sweetness of dried apricots, or savour the communal spirit of the chaat platter, a delicious array of tangy Indian snacks that traces its roots back to the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. But beyond just tantalising flavours, it champions sustainability. Chef Tuli ensures that the ingredients are local and fresh, embodying the ethos of using seasonal produce to minimise environmental impact while delivering peak flavour. Lotus root and edamame pulao is just one example of this commitment, using locally sourced ingredients like lotus and edamame in a refreshing medley that speaks both to the land and the palate.

“I aspire for guests to leave with a sense of discovery connected to Indian cuisine’s essence – experiencing its depth of flavours and cultural significance through each dish telling a story rooted in my culinary journey across India’s diverse traditions,” he notes. “Dining at Leela should be more than just a meal; it should be an exploration of Indian culinary heritage that fosters connection and curiosity about what Indian cuisine offers beyond typical expectations.”

The dining escapism at Leela is not just about feeding the body, but nourishing the spirit with each delightful bite. It’s more than a meal; it’s an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of Indian cuisine – a vibrant montage of spices, history and joy. Whether you’re a connoisseur of Indian flavours or a curious newcomer, the culinary playground at Leela promises to captivate your senses. Gather your friends and jump into this immersive Indian feast that celebrates food, culture and the art of communal dining like no other.

LEELA, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

North Star: A fusion of history and contemporary mastery, Hutong’s hero dishes lead gourmets to heavenly highs

Hutong is not just a restaurant; it’s a vibrant canvas where the rich tapestry of Northern Chinese cuisine comes to life. Step into this exquisite dining venue and the elegant décor inspired by the traditional hutongs of Beijing envelops you in an atmosphere that feels both contemporary and steeped in history.

A sensational four-hands collaboration recently united colleagues and culinary virtuosos Cheung Yung-keung, Head Chef of Hutong Hong Kong, and Ren Dingxu, Head Chef of Hutong Dubai, with each bringing their extensive expertise and deep-rooted passion for the cuisines of two distinct Chinese regions. “I sought to capture the essence of Shanghainese cuisine, which is known for its rich, savoury flavours and meticulous preparation,” shares Chef Cheung about his inspiration for the collaboration. “These dishes are my homage to the culinary traditions of Shanghai, brought to life through the lens of contemporary dining.”

A symphony of flavours began with an exquisite tea-smoked pigeon, a dish that pays homage to Shanghai’s culinary traditions. Tender squab is braised and delicately smoked with Biluochun tea leaves and fragrant roses from Jiangsu. The first bite was a revelation; the subtle smokiness danced on the palate, leaving a sophisticated aftertaste that lingered, enticing the senses for what lies ahead.

Next to arrive, the dim-sum platter was a feast for both the eyes and the palate. This trio featured a lobster dumpling, where sweet lobster meets a hint of spicy seafood essence; a peach gum mushroom dumpling, inspired by ancient Chinese medicinal texts; and a wagyu beef green chilli dumpling, combining premium wagyu with the fiery kick of Sichuan’s tiger-skin peppers. Each piece is a testament to the chefs’ dedication to quality and innovation.

Honouring tradition with a modern twist, the evening continued with the braised fillet of eel with bean sprouts and dark soy sauce. Here, a secret dark soy sauce recipe enhances the fish, resulting in a dish that epitomises tenderness and richness. The contrast of lightly stir-fried bean sprouts adds a fresh crunch, creating a harmonious balance that celebrates traditional Shanghai flavours.

Following this was Sichuan-style Chilean sea bass with bamboo shoots, providing a modern twist on classic preparations. Grilled to perfection, the fish is enveloped in a vibrant homemade jiao mao sauce, with the bamboo shoots contributing a refreshing texture that elevates the dish. The culinary journey took a bold turn with the spicy suckling pig with kung po sauce, a delightful nod to Shanghai’s braised pork. For this dish, pulled pork belly infused with Hutong’s signature chilli oil is paired with crispy suckling pig skin, creating a delightful contrast of textures and a symphony of spicy savouriness that tantalises the taste buds.

Another showstopper dish, Spanish red prawns with crispy rice in seafood broth, reflected the luxurious nature of this special menu. Prawns bathed in a rich, lobster-infused broth are complemented by crispy rice, providing a captivating crunch that enhances the seafood’s natural sweetness. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly flaming wagyu beef char siu. A5 wagyu chuck ribs flambéed with rose liqueur and rum and accompanied by shiny Muscat grapes and kumquat create a dramatic presentation that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The rich, tender beef paired with the sweet, tangy fruit delivers a flavour explosion that is unforgettable.

“These dishes are my tribute to the dynamic culinary heritage of my native Sichuan,” says the visiting Chef Ren.

As a sweet conclusion, the Golden Fortune dessert is a symbol of prosperity and celebration. Inspired by the lychee varieties of Lingshan County in Guangxi, this refreshing finale features lychee purée, ginger sorbet and lemongrass. It was an aromatic end to an extraordinary meal, with the optional wine and sake pairings further enhancing each dish.

Whether you are a connoisseur of Chinese food or a curious newcomer, Chef Cheung orchestrates an unforgettable culinary journey nightly at Hutong in Hong Kong.

Hutong, 18/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Photos: Hutong Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Salt Shaker: Under Ricardo Chaneton, The Upper House’s Salisterra exudes a richer, more elevated Mediterranean high

Nestled high within the sophisticated environs of The Upper House Hotel in Pacific Place, Salisterra flies diners to the heart of the Mediterranean. Now guided by the skilled hand of Chef Ricardo Chaneton, the restaurant’s refreshed menu is a spirited testament to the rich diversity and abundant seasonal bounty of the sun-kissed region.

Since opening in 2021, Salisterra has been rooted in the vital soul of the Mediterranean, seamlessly blending contemporary flair with authentic, time-honoured flavours. Named for the salt of the earth, it has now upped its gastronomic game, drawing inspiration from the energetic Venezuelan, his European ancestry and extensive fine-dining experience at three-starred hotspots on the southern Spanish and French coasts.

“The refreshed Salisterra menu is a vibrant tribute to Mediterranean cuisine, inspired by my Italian heritage and the flavours I discovered during my time in Dénia, Spain, and the Côte d’Azur, France,” explains the celebrated chef. “Through the modern interpretation of classic dishes, I aim to express the true essence of the Mediterranean, where every meal is a harmonious blend of traditional, fresh and familiar flavours.”

And vibrant it certainly is. The new summer a la carte menu abounds with bold, contemporary dishes that showcase the rich diversity of the region. Among the appetisers, Octopus is an animated, refreshing creation, rubbed in Greek herbs, slow-cooked until tender then paired with the sweet-tart notes of pomegranate, orange and basil.

Another standout is Meloso Rice, a Spanish-inspired creamy rice dish that brings the umami richness of morels and fava beans to the fore. “This is one of our signature items, reflecting my passion for Mediterranean cuisine and the depth of flavours that can be achieved with traditional cooking techniques,” says Chaneton.

The collaboration between the Michelin-starred chef of Mono fame and The Upper House culinary team has been instrumental in reshaping the Salisterra dining experience. In his role as culinary advisor, Chaneton works closely with the in-house chefs to express this elevated concept, crafting a menu that truly celebrates the Mediterranean, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients that deliver authenticity.

The response has been overwhelmingly positive. Regulars have praised the consistent quality and attention to detail that goes into each dish, as well as the fresh, vibrant flavours that seal Salisterra’s reputation as a standout culinary destination. Looking ahead, diners can expect the menu to continue evolving with the seasons of the Mediterranean and exemplifying the best of the region’s offerings.

“The menu changes every few months to reflect the seasonality of the ingredients,” shares the chef. “We also have some exciting culinary events planned for later this year, so guests can look forward to experiencing the spirit of the Mediterranean in new and innovative ways.”

Beyond the food, the Salisterra experience is designed to capture the essence of the Mediterranean, with an atmosphere that exudes warmth, generosity, and a sense of opulent plentitude. “Guests can expect to feel the same hospitality and convivial spirit that is so integral to the Mediterranean way of life,” he enthuses. “The tables are filled with an abundance of dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients that reflect the vast and diverse landscape of the region.”

Within the broader strokes of Hong Kong gastronomy, Salisterra stands tall as a unique and captivating dining destination – and not just for its perch above Pacific Place and magnificent sunset views. “Hong Kong is renowned for its eclectic dining scene, and Salisterra brings a modern, seasonal, Mediterranean concept to the city’s diverse culinary landscape,” says Chaneton. “It’s the perfect combination of casual charm and refined sophistication, providing guests with an approachable yet luxurious dining experience that celebrates the rich cultural heritage of the Mediterranean.”

Salisterra, Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong

Photos: Salisterra – The Upper House Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Carna Lore: Beef brilliance and reverence shine equally at Carna by Dario Cecchini, the famed butcher of Tuscany

Nose-to-tail dining could hardly be more sophisticated than at Carna by Dario Cecchini in Mondrian Hong Kong, where the Tuscan master butcher – lauded as the world’s greatest – has joined forces with fast-rising chef Daniele Milliani in a renaissance-style sanctuary conceived by renowned interior designer Joyce Wang. Astounding views of Hong Kong’s harbour and skyline from the 39th floor of the hotel located in the heart of buzzing Tsim Sha Tsui adds to the sense of occasion.

Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become Hong Kong’s hot table nonpareil; it is the first Carna in Asia, joining sister restaurants in Dubai and the Bahamas. The name signals a feast of meat, and during an exclusive chef’s table tasting experience, culinary theatre is duly conjured from a variety of premium beef cuts and the butchery tradition of using every single scrap to great effect.

“The meats served at Carna are sourced from carefully selected farms and purveyors known for their commitment to quality and sustainability,” explains Senior Sous Chef Billy Yau. “We work closely with these suppliers to ensure the animals are raised using ethical and humane practices.”

Most of the beef undergoes an extensive dry-ageing process in Carna’s specialised temperature and humidity-controlled ageing room. This process takes between 45 and 60 days, during which time the enzymes in the meat naturally break down the connective tissues, concentrating the flavours and tenderising the texture to create the signature deep, rich taste and melt-in-your-mouth quality of Carna’s meats.

The chef’s table experience is an exceptional opportunity to witness culinary mastery firsthand. One highlight is the tableside preparation of a sublime beef tartare, where the chef expertly hand-chops the lean, flavourful meat and combines it with a simple yet impactful marinade of garlic, paprika, lemon, chilli, Chianti salt and olive oil. The result is a pure and explosive taste that coats the palate with a deep, salty, meaty savour and a subtle kick of heat.

“Carna is a butcher’s project, shifting away from the classic steakhouse concept toward the idea of a ‘whole-cow house’,” says Chef Yau. “The spirit here is to make the animal’s sacrifice more respectful and sustainable by embracing the idea that there is no ‘best cut’ – rather, every part of the animal, if prepared with care and expertise, can be equally delicious.”

To bring this philosophy to life, the menu offers an extensive selection of 18 different beef cuts, from classic options like tongue and beef shank to more unique and lesser-known cuts like the Etruscan (from the cow’s forequarter) and the tail. Each is treated with the utmost attention, showcasing how every element of the animal can shine when handled with the proper techniques and reverence.

This holistic approach not only elevates the dining experience but also reflects Carna’s commitment to sustainability. By embracing the entire cow, the restaurant aims to make the most of each animal and minimise waste, ensuring a more responsible and environmentally-conscious approach to sourcing and serving premium beef.

Alternatives to all this meat can be found in ‘The Garden’ section of the menu, as well as seafood mains like Italian sea bass with capers, garlic, Taggiasche olives and anchovies and tagliolini with calamari spillo, mussel, potato foam and roasted bell pepper coulis.

To complement the premium beef-focused menu, Carna offers an impressive selection of wines, with a focus on the top Tuscan pour of Chianti Classico, including Fontodi Chianti Classico and Molino di Grace Chianti Classico from Panzan, Cecchini’s hilltop hometown.

Just as the ‘whole-cow house’ philosophy ensures no part of the animal goes to waste, leftover ingredients from cooking are repurposed to craft specialty cocktails in a further celebration of sustainability. With its reverence for the animal, commitment to sustainability and culinary excellence, Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become a must-visit destination for foodies and a new benchmark for sophisticated nose-to-tail dining in Asia.

Carna by Dario Cecchini, 39/F, Mondrian Hong Kong, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Photos: Carna by Dario Cecchini Video: Jack Fontanilla