Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience
For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.
Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.
Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”
Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.
The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.
Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.
The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.
Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”
Chef-owner of Table by Sandy Keung on conscious seasonal cuisine
Chef-owner of seasonal-based restaurant TABLE, Sandy Keung not only puts consciousness in her cuisine, but is also leading the way for a healthier, more sustainable way of eating.
Sandy Keung in a Cara cutout pleated crepe jumpsuit by Alice + Olivia, courtesy of THE OUTNET
Could you tell us about your background before opening TABLE by Sandy Keung?
I grew up in Hong Kong but moved to New York for school. I was a trained accountant and a hedge fund manager. I moved to Vietnam to do investment for the hedge fund before moving back here after three years. I became CFO for a listed company before leaving finance to open TABLE by Sandy Keung.
When did your passion for cooking begin?
When I was living in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, I had a large apartment with a gorgeous view and a beautiful kitchen. I would often entertain friends and colleagues and cook for them. I would get compliments for the dishes I prepared, and thought to myself, ‘perhaps this is something I could do as a profession’.
What made you decide to take the plunge?
I started to really enjoy cooking. So, I decided to test the waters. If things didn’t work out, I always had my finance background to fall back on. I volunteered to work in a French restaurant in Ho Chi Minh to see if it was really something I could adopt as a profession. In 2014, I left my career and CFO position and started Table by Sandy Keung.
What is the concept behind the restaurant?
When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and it wasn’t reflective of my own upbringing and background. So, I thought, ‘why don’t I just focus on the ingredients instead’?
I decided to start an ingredient-based cuisine where we take ingredients that are in season and apply the best treatment and cooking method for them. I realise that this is quite a Hong Kong approach. After all, we are a melting pot of different things.
I think over the years people have gotten used to eating seasonal items from all over the world. To me, eating seasonally is also eating locally-sourced ingredients. I believe when you choose something that is in harmony with your environment, it contributes to your wellbeing – that is the true purpose of eating seasonally.
I guess as my culinary journey evolves, I’ve become more conscious about sustainability and going back to my roots – reflecting on what seasonality means, and what it means to eat seasonally. I explored traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and the principles of man and nature in harmony. In TCM, we believe that besides eating certain things that will contribute to our general well-being, there are also certain parts of the body – internal organs – that match with that particular season. For example, in summer it’s actually best for us to nourish the heart, so we should eat something that is cooling to combat the heat and lower the blood pressure.
Sandy Keung in a Net Sustain one-sleeve cady maxi dress by ESSE Studios, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER
What does this perspective mean for Table?
I’m taking Table a step further. Instead of just ‘Ingredient-based Cuisine’, I now define it as ‘Conscious Ingredient-based Cuisine’. It’s more than just the ingredients, we are more conscious of every step of the process involved, from intention to environment to the people. I realised that it is difficult to ask people to order a lot of vegetables, especially when you go to a seafood restaurant like mine. So, what I have started doing is incorporating seasonal local vegetables that Hongkongers have grown up with and are familiar with, such as bitter melon, winter melon and wax gourd (which are cooling for the body during the summer season) and added them into our daily soup or as part of an amuse bouche, so diners don’t really have a choice. [laughs]
This is not to say that we shouldn’t eat meat or seafood, but we do need ingredients that balance and nourish the right part of our body and mind, which is my way of gently pushing my guests to have a healthier and more balanced meal. Also, these are ingredients that you probably won’t see in a western restaurant. I like to think that this makes Table by Sandy Keung’s cuisine uniquely Hong Kong and uniquely Sandy’s.
“When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and not reflective of my own upbringing” background”
Table by Sandy Keung treats its shellfish via depuration. Why is this important?
Depuration is actually a popular process of using non-thermal techniques to purify seafood naturally. This basically provides the shellfish with a cleaner and more appropriate environment, with the right temperature, pH level and salinity. This way the shellfish can naturally filter their metabolic waste and accumulated pollutants – offering cleaner and safer seafood for eating.
Considering that the city imports over 90 percent of live seafood from Europe, North America and other places far and near via “dry” shipping, for the time it takes the shellfish to arrive into the city, it is essential, in my opinion, that we do depuration upon arrival. Otherwise, it’s like not having a shower or going to the bathroom for three days.
Unfortunately, it is a process that isn’t well known in Hong Kong yet. Although they are used in modern swimming pools, such as those in hotels, or in high-end recreational fish aquariums, they aren’t used for food safety, which comes as a surprise to me since it is very common in Europe for water and shellfish treatment to improve food safety.
Sandy Keung in a ruffled silk-organza blouse by ZIMMERMANN, courtesy of THE OUTNET; Babette organic cotton-blend twill wide-leg pants by Iris & Ink, courtesy of THE OUTNET
You also founded Good BBQ. Could you tell us more.
Good BBQ is a chain of siu mei restaurants (Hong Kong-style roast meat). I love siu mei and I would love to see this local favourite expand beyond our borders. We are actually opening a location in London in the near future which is very exciting, as I get to see this iconic Hong Kong dish reach other cities.
Do you have any advice for those planning to enter the F&B industry?
In any change you wish to make, ask yourself if this is something you can imagine yourself doing as a job. It’s one thing to enjoy doing something, it’s something entirely different when you have to do it for work. My advice is to try it out, before you decide.
Is there any particular memory that reminds you of your purpose as a chef?
There was one occasion during the pandemic when dining out was under strict restrictions. One of our regular customers had wanted to cheer up his elderly mother for not having been out for a long time. He had wanted to treat her to our signature crab rice on a Sunday, but because we were closed. So, he had asked our manager if he could pick up the dish the day before and be given instructions on how to reheat it instead. Instead, I told him to ask the guest, if he was truly serious about coming in on a Sunday, I would come in to cook the dish for him to pick up on the day. I feel joy and am grateful being able to be an instrument for a son to show love to his mother, or for people to share happiness through my food.
On a bad day, what is your go-to comfort food?
I like unwinding after a long day of service, especially after the Christmas rush, with some caviar. It’s like a little pat on the back for a hard day’s work.
What dish best represents Hong Kong?
I think siu mei dishes like roasted goose, roast pork and barbeque rice are iconic staples of Hong Kong and perfectly represents the city.
Thank you.
Interview by: Roberliza Eugenio; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Jackie Chan; Hair and Make up: Heti Tsang; Venue: Arclinea FSS and Officine Gullo Flagship Store @ESSERE
Six most expensive local delicacies in Hong Kong
There’s no shortage of fine dining options in Hong Kong. But there’s also a brisk trade in exorbitantly priced delicacies – morsels that carry status by virtue of their scarcity and cost, or boast an impressive list of health benefits. Some of the most prized – and occasionally the downright weird – are put under the griller here.
Cocaine of the Sea
To find high-end fish maw, one need look no further than the many dried seafood outlets on the streets of Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district. Fish maw is actually the swim bladder, a gas-filled organ located near the gills of fish – providing the buoyancy they need to maintain their depth in water. In truth, you can get a tasty serve of fish maw with a plate of Chinese vegetables and a bowl of steamed rice for under HK$100 at any number of cha chaan tengs dotted around the city – but for fish maw at the very top of the price spectrum, the cost is a good deal higher.
The most expensive fish maw is found in the Gulf of Mexico and is sourced from totoaba – a type of drum fish. Totoaba bladder is, in fact, so valuable it has been nicknamed the ‘cocaine of the sea’. It can reportedly fetch as much as US$129,000 (HK$1.01 million) per kg on the black market. There are, however, a couple of catches. The first is that international trade in totoaba maw is banned. The second is that totoaba is becoming increasingly rare due to overfishing, with grave concerns that it is being hunted to extinction. Fortunately there are plenty of more readily available sources of fish maw on the market if that’s your fancy.
Himalayan Viagra
Caterpillar fungus (a species of Cordyceps), is another in-demand delicacy with an extravagant price tag. It is prized for its aphrodisiac properties – which is why it is commonly referred to as Himalayan Viagra.
The life cycle by which the caterpillar fungus comes into is like something out of a B-grade horror movie, along the lines of The Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Caterpillar fungus is found on the Tibetan Plateau. It is here that it invades the bodies of caterpillars of the Thitarodes moth. The caterpillars are born underground, ingest a kind of fungus, which infects takes over the host’s tissue. These unfortunate caterpillars never metamorphosize. Their bodies are taken over by the caterpillar fungus, which then shoots out hardened plant roots.
In addition to its aphrodisiac properties, the caterpillar fungus is also believed to be a cure-all valued for its power to treat back and knee pains, reduce stress and coughing and even treat anemia by boosting haemaglobin levels – but it’s worth noting that these claims do not have a basis in science.
Especially popular as a Chinese medicine, caterpillar fungus sells for as high as 880,000 RMB (HK$1.03 million) per kg and is usually served up double-boiled in soup for maximum impact. Given the price, you would certainly want to get maximum bang for your buck.
For the Birds
Another very popular dish commonly served up on special occasions in Hong Kong is bird’s nest soup. The key ingredient here is actually the saliva of the a particular species of bird – the swift – which uses its saliva to bind its nest together and is prized for its all-round medicinal benefits, especially to the skin, the lungs and the digestive system. The substance extracted from the abandoned nests are highly expensive due to their rarity and difficulty of retrieval – as the swift nests high up on cliff faces and caves in Malaysia and Indonesia.
Consuming the saliva of another creature may turn off some diners but at least no birds were killed in the process, though the extraction process can be dangerous with those hired to collect the bird’s nest from their precarious resting places. Prices for the precious substance generally starts at around HK$175,000 per kg. As the name suggests, it is usually double-boiled in a soup of gelatinous strands.
Mushroom Madness
Mushrooms are a central part of much of traditional Chinese cooking – and are usually affordably prices and easily purchased in any number of wet markets around Hong Kong. But there are exceptions to this rule. With some mushrooms only available to those ready to part with a fair wad of cash.
The priciest of these exotic fungal delicacies is the Hericium Erinaceus. Also called lion’s mane and/or monkey’s head mushroom due to its characteristics shape, this rare and delicate fungus grows wild in the northeast Chinese province of Heilongjiang. It typically prospers in the trunk or hollow of a hardwood tree in the deep recesses of a forest. The fresh mushroom is more costly than the dried version and weights in at around 350 RMB per 500g, although it’s usually sold in half kilo lots. It is praised for boosting blood circulation and reducing cholesterol.
More expensive still is the matsutake mushroom. Commonly known as the ‘king of fungi’, this mushroom can only thrive in pristine forests free of human influence and grows wild in a number of provinces in northern China. It takes up to five years to grow to fruition and must be picked and consumed within 48 hours – making it a challenge to get it from forest to table.
The dried version is pricier than the fresh version and can fetch up to 2000 RMB per 500g. It usually steamed or served up in a soup but should be cooked at or below 90 degree Celsius to preserve its cancer-fighting properties.
Dried Abalone
Often gracing the tables of special occasion dining in Hong Kong and mainland China. these delicacies are often served up on special occasions. Abalone is a staple at multi-course meals in Chinese restaurants around Asia. Strict controls on the number of licences available push up the price of these tasty – if somewhat rubbery – gastropod mollusks. High in selenium, which is good to boost stamina, abalone can sell for up to HK$35,000 per kg.
Sea Cucumbers
Despite the name, sea cucumbers, are in fact marine animals. These slug-shaped seafloor dwellers were once popular at banquets in China but have fallen somewhat out of fashion in recent years. Although they can still fetch a price as high as 20,000 RMB per kg, driven up by how long these critters take to mature. It is believed that the recovery of post-operative patients can be speeded up eating braised sea cucumber in porridge.
Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!
Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.
This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.
The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.
Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.
Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.
Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.
Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.
Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”
Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.
Yung Kee: A new look at the iconic Cantonese eatery
In a city where restaurants rise and fall according to the admittedly fickle tastes of its discerning diners, Yung Kee is a singular success story. Indeed, the Cantonese eatery is something of an institution, having recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. Despite being internationally renowned today, its roots, however, are humble to the extreme.
Newly renovated dining room at Yung Kee
Having begun as a dai pai dong in 1936, Yung Kee moved to a sturdier location in Wing Lok Street in 1942. Two years later, though, during Hong Kong’s occupation by the Japanese, the site was razed by US bombers and had to be rebuilt. Two decades on, Yung Kee finally found its forever home on Wellington Street, and to mark its landmark 80th year, the restaurant underwent significant renovations.
Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner of Yung Kee
“With the new refurbishment, we’ve ensured that each floor provides a different type of atmosphere to suit diners’ different needs,” says third-generation owner Yvonne Kam. “The ground floor is more for light dining, while the first floor has a ’50s / ’60s teahouse vibe. At the top is our formal dining area, replete with a stunning Dragon Phoenix Hall. We’ve even interspersed various pieces of memorabilia and artworks from Yung Kee’s past, so it’s almost like eating within a majestic living-history museum – one that has evolved alongside the city’s rapid culinary development.”
Multiple nods to the restaurant’s legacy are indeed to be found, from the painstakingly restored handcrafted Italian tiles that were fitted on the first floor in 1964 and the original signage that now graces the contemporary bar area, to the beautifully maintained gold-plated, traditional dragon and phoenix statues and custom-made art punctuating the second-floor grand hall.
Yung Kee steamed shrimp and scallop dumpling
Amid this august environment, we kick off our own tasting with a duo of signature dim-sum dishes – Steamed Shrimp and Scallop Dumpling and Supreme Soup Pork Dumpling. The former encompasses delightfully delicate oceanic flavours, while the latter features a single oversized dumpling brimming with soup and a soft pork stuffing.
Yung Kee Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet
Next to arrive is Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet, an updated combination of two disparate dishes. Here, the plump bird’s legs have been deboned then sewn up, so not one iota of flavour or moisture can escape. Roasted to perfection, each mouthful combines succulent meat with crispy skin. The fillets, meanwhile, are beautifully tender, with the accompanying asparagus slivers and lily bulb petals adding a welcome textural element.
Yung Kee Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail
Another new addition to the menu then hoves into view – Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail. An elevated interpretation of a dim-sum favourite (shrimp toast), this particular iteration sees the base layer of bread covered with a decadent lobster tail, which is then sprinkled with sakura shrimp for a dash of added texture. Crunchy yet subtly flavoured, this is a guaranteed hit for any shellfish aficionado.
Yung Kee Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose
Rounding out our delicious tasting is a return to that Yung Kee classic – Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose. “The secret behind our iconic roast goose is our Chinese charcoal grill,” explains Kam. “We have the last remaining one in the CBD area, as the government no longer issues new licences for them. By slow-roasting the goose in it, the meat retains a succulent flavour while simultaneously being given a uniquely fragrant smokiness.”
That’s not all, though. The bird in question is no ordinary goose. It’s a purebred black-maned Chinese goose, carefully chosen for its juicy flesh, which is then bathed in a secret marinade that locks in extra flavour. The result is an explosion of fat, meat and saltiness with every bite – a powerfully addictive combination that keeps you coming back for more. Small wonder, then, that this dish, more than any other at Yung Kee, has kept eager epicureans in thrall across the decades.
LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining
Exquisite service, incredible food, attention to detail – a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Central whisked us off to the French Riviera without having to catch a plane. Located in the art-themed complex of H Queen’s on Stanley Street, LPM Restaurant and Bar is a modern brasserie awash in elegant whites, and one of the go-to places in the city for fine French-Mediterranean food minus the fuss or undue flourishes.
Casting off the gloom of a fifth Covid wave in Hong Kong, on a bright winter’s day, we arrive at the stylish, handsomely white-tableclothed restaurant for a lunchtime tasting. Entering through an open patio that seats 14, we are immediately struck by the expansive dining space (LPM accommodates 104 in total), modern architecture and relaxed, welcoming vibe. The interiors are a sunny delight, dotted with carefully curated contemporary artwork from the South of France and its environs.
Modern French gastronomy may not be hot at the moment, but that doesn’t bother head chef Maurizio Pace. “Our food is timeless,” he says, “You really can’t eat a bad French meal, and we’ve designed a classic menu with a contemporary twist. It is labour-intensive, detail-oriented and the execution is flawless.” Armed with more than two decades of culinary experience across Italy, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, Pace steers clear of trends to create new, bold flavours amidst an informality unfamiliar in most traditional French restaurants. Each mouthful here, is an unapologetic food adventure, one that is not easily forgotten or recreated elsewhere.
From a menu exhibiting a wide confluence of classics, the chef prepares four courses of earthy fare for this vegetarian. Once seated, the server comes forth with a plate of Italian tomatoes, lemon and olive oil to “make your own salad”. Ripe and bursting with flavour, it’s an entertaining start to escape the wait for entrées which are prepared in the open kitchen.
Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts
We begin with Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts. Bitter and twisted, endives are an acquired taste, but once you’re accustomed, there’s no looking back. Sliced and bathed in a tangy dressing of mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil, the chicory is topped with apple slices, a mound of cheese and crispy caramelised nuts.
Our taste buds thus shocked out of hibernation, we’re ready to dig deep into Black Truffle with Burrata. Fresh, milky burrata cheese flown straight from Italy is served with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous shaving of European black truffle. This delicious marriage of earthy, aromatic ingredients can be savoured all winter long.
Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes
Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes is a humble, comforting dish – flavourfully packed with herbs but not piled with cream, and most importantly not leaving a sinking feeling in the mouth like some pasta creations. It’s served with the right amount of piquancy, warmth and salt, and I can imagine children getting wild for it.
LPM offers an exhaustive wine list, as well as cocktails that are beyond impressive. Bar Manager Benjamin Boyce, stirs a complex, magical potion for Beauty and the Beast, a mildly sweet and invigorating mix of Ketel One vodka, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, strawberry, fennel cordial and yellow Chartreuse.
The heady cocktails are outdone by the calorie-dense dessert of Vanilla Cheesecake with Berry Compote. A faultlessly smooth, unassuming wedge comes with the promise of airy lightness, the thin crunchy base and the tartness of mixed berries prove to be exactly the sort of old-school sweetness I’d wage a fork-war over.
The undisputed simplicity and freshness of ingredients here, prepared with love and respect, make you crave for a leisurely Saint-Tropez holiday, and it’s this ability to captivate and transport diners that has built LPM such a solid local clientele.
(Text: Nikita Mishra Pictures: LPM Restaurant and Bar)
Chueca makes Spanish tapas more inventive
To say that Hong Kong has a saturated dining scene would be something of an understatement, so for a restaurant to set itself apart from the crowd is a major challenge indeed. Chueca, a newly opened modern Spanish tapas restaurant tucked at one end of Gough Street in Central, does just that.
Ably helmed by Chef Jordi Vallés, a Spaniard whose impressive CV includes stints as Executive Chef with the Aqua and Pirata dining groups, Chueca offers a deft blend of casually chic ambiance and authentic, flavour-packed dishes that have found favour among even the most discerning of the city’s eager epicureans. “We don’t claim we are a fine-dining establishment,” says Vallés of this winning formula. “Yet, every one of our dishes is a high-quality offering that takes the rustic flavours of Spain and gives it a refined touch. We source many of our ingredients directly from there to ensure our cuisine is truly authentic.”
“In spite of the richness of the ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a melt-in-your-mouth lightness”
Named after a bustling district of central Madrid, Chueca has a verandah-like frontage set with a long marble countertop for an al-fresco dining experience. The airiness is also reflected in the interiors, which boast wood and brass accents with a splash of aquamarine for good measure. The overall effect is refreshingly well balanced, providing a welcoming atmosphere from the outset.
Eager to begin our own tasting, we dove right into an appetiser of Gambas Al Ajillo. A quintessential Spanish dish, the fresh tiger prawns were deep fried in delicious garlic-laden olive oil, with a sprinkling of chilli imparting a slight piquancy. Indulgent without being overwhelmingly greasy, it was a worthy opening act.
Next to arrive was Chef’s Canelón, one of Chueca’s signatures. For the uninitiated, a canelón is a pasta roll stuffed with a variety of ingredients that is typically eaten during the festive season. In this instance, though, the traditional recipe has been upscaled to feature a smooth truffle-and-meat stuffing, surrounded by generous shavings of black truffle. Rounding it off is a delectable porcini béchamel sauce that adds a creaminess to proceedings. In spite of the richness of the disparate ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a cohesive melt-in-your-mouth lightness.
The cook then offered a sneak peek at the eatery’s upcoming Christmas menu with an appetiser of Foie Gras Royale. Although a deceptively small portion upon first viewing, its size has been specifically chosen to balance the decadence within; atop each thin sliver of bread, hidden beneath shavings of black truffle, is a rich foie gras concoction that will more than satiate any hunger pangs.
Next to arrive was perhaps Chueca’s most popular main, a sharing platter of Lobster Rice. A true labour of love, the crustaceans are delivered fresh each day and the heads simmered for hours to create a delectable broth, which is then used to cook the rice, onions, tomatoes and tiny morsels of squid. The finishing touch is a perfectly cooked whole lobster. Awash in oceanic accents without ever once overwhelming the senses, the shellfish’s flavours permeate throughout. It’s a guaranteed favourite of any seafood-loving gourmand, and perfect for enjoying with loved ones.
Finally, with our waistlines getting uncomfortably tight, a dessert of Flan de Nata – a Spanish take on crème caramel – hovered into view. Sweet without being cloying, the flan is a creamy, custardy plate of mouth-watering goodness, with the accompanying medley of diced fruits injecting a welcome tartness and an extra textural element to the dessert. Simple yet delectably delicious, it was the perfect note to end our flavour-packed tasting.
Autumn does not mean pumpkin-spiced lattes for Hong Kongers (unlike the West) but calls for digging into copious portions of the steamed and meticulously prepared Chinese mitten crabs, Shanghai crabs or simply the hairy crabs. A delicacy in the Shanghainese cuisine, September to December is the peak time for this seasonal delicacy… Whether you’re a seasoned eater or new to the craze, we get all the lowdown on the these famed furry little fellows:
Easily recognisable by its fuzzy claws, most shops offer the roes between 4 and 7 taels. Priced between HK$400 to HK$900 per piece, a crab between 5.2 and 6.8 taels (about 200g to 260g) is enough for an indulgent portion.
Yangcheng, Jingsu, Thaihu or Hokkaido crabs? The most famed and sought-after breed originates from the Yangtze River around Shanghai, usually in Yangcheng Lake and Jiangsu province. However, with the rising local demand for premium golden roes within China, supplies for neighbouring Hong Kong have dropped and prices have shot up.
To add to the troubles of dining aficionados, the issue of counterfeit hairy crabs from Yangcheng province is also big challenge, leading many to look to other countries such as Japan, for alternatives.
Image from Nam Sam Yung Market
Japanese Hokkaido hairy crabs from the fresh waters of Ishikari River are safe and quality choice in place of Yangtze crabs. Unlike the richness of its Chinese counterpart, Hokkaido hairy crabs are lighter and more fragrant. Taihu Lake crabs from China, too, serves as a great alternative to the Yangcheng Lake breed, similar in quality and mouth-watering fragrant roes.
But if you do wish to go for the famed Yangcheng Shanghainese crab, be sure to look out for the anti-counterfeiting barcode attached to the crabs to verify its authentication. Hairy crab sellers are given something called the Shell Fish (Hairy Crab) Permit from the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department, do look out for the stamp before you crack open a feast.
Image from Nam Sam Yung Market
Where to get hairy crabs
Old San Yang 4 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay For all things Shanghainese, this four-decade strong grocer has made a name for itself as one of the city’s go-to places for authentic Yangcheng and Taihu hairy crabs. Starting from 4 taels (HK$300 Up) and bigger, it is very popular among locals, especially during hairy crab season.
New Sam Yung Market Hau Wong Road, Kowloon City In Kowloon, Hau Wong Road is a popular for crab aficionados. Come autumn, the street is crowded with locals scurrying to grab the freshest batch available – offering Hokkaido as well as Jiangshu Shanghainese crabs – for at least HK$400 per 4.4 taels (166g).
Benson Crab & Wine 2 Min Fat Street, Happy Valley / info@benson.com.hk An established wholesaler of hairy crabs since more than two decades, customers can enjoy wholesale price upon purchasing half or full baskets. It comes inclusive of 3 or 6 bottles of vinegar, ginger, sugar and perilla leaf to cook your own stress-free feast at home. Offering 58 pieces per bucket of 5 teals at $6,000 and 24 pcs of 6 teals at $3,900. Online orders are also available here.
Northern Delights: Scrumptious Scandinavian dishes at Hjem
Following the fantastic reception of the city’s first stylish Burmese restaurant, Club Rangoon, its owners at F&B group Common Abode have shifted gears to introduce yet another relatively unfamiliar culinary concept in the form of Nordic eatery Hjem. Tucked along Hollywood Road near Man Mo Temple, this homely, welcoming new restaurant serves up authentic Nordic flavours alongside healthy beverages that are perfect for stressed-out urbanites to pick up on the go.
Hjem, which means ‘home’ in Norwegian (and pronounced ‘yem’ in English), lies particularly close to the heart of the group’s co-founder, Elin Fu, who grew up in the Scandinavian country. She explains, “Hjem is a way of keeping home close to me wherever I may be. Food can be a very personal thing; taste can evoke certain memories and can be an instigator of new experiences. I wanted to share with guests the same comfort that I felt growing up with Nordic cuisine.”
In line with this vision, simple, farm-to-table offerings are the order of the day, typified by the selection of smørrebrød, open-faced sandwiches with a base of robust rye bread and an array of toppings – quite literally Hjem’s bread and butter.
Our own tasting started with a trio of smørrebrød. Arctic Prawn Smørrebrød sees a heap of mayonnaise-coated prawns plucked from the region’s icy waters and placed on a bed of boiled eggs. Hearty yet refreshing, the inherent richness of this cold dish is deftly tempered with the addition of crunchy medallions of baby radish. Generous dollops of salmon roe, meanwhile, elevate the texture of each bite with a burst of flavour.
Image courtesy of Hjem
We then dove into the Herring Smørrebrød. A staple fish in northern European diets, the herrings here are not smoked, salted or pickled as one might expect, but marinated in a pungent mustard dressing. The epitome of a love-it-or-hate-it cold sandwich – some diners may be put off by the topping’s strong aroma – it nonetheless offers unique insight into the tastes of Scandinavia.
Rounding out our platter was the warm Pork Belly Smørrebrød. Here the slivers of perfectly cooked pork belly are reminiscent of Korean samgyupsal in their preparation, all fatty goodness. To cut through the oiliness, the meat is grounded by a bed of tangy pickled red cabbage, with the accompanying fresh slivers adding a delightful crunch to proceedings. A note for the uninitiated: the smørrebrød are hugely filling despite their diminutive size, and even just one of these open-faced creations will likely satiate your appetite.
Image courtesy of Hjem
If, however, you’ve yet to hit your limit, sampling a plate of Hjem’s Meatballs wouldn’t be amiss. The very definition of comfort food, the juicy meatballs are complemented by creamy mashed potato and umami-laden gravy. Once again, a balancing of flavours to avoid overpowering the taste buds is achieved: a spoonful of lingonberry sauce bequeaths each mouthful with a delightful tanginess that lingers long after the morsel slips down the throat.
Image courtesy of Hjem
Alongside these comforting culinary treats, no visit to Hjem would be complete without sampling the coffees and healthy drinks on offer. From Nordic teas to kombucha spritzes, there’s something to tempt every wellness-minded diner. A star turn here is Honey Golden Milk Latte, a caffeine-free concoction that has ground turmeric as its key ingredient. Creamy with just a touch of sweetness, it is the perfect tipple to beat the heat when served over ice. Sit back and feel that invigorating Nordic breeze.
(Text: Tenzing Thondup)
Piece Meal: A delicious multi-course omakase at Sushi Yonjugo
Walking along the bustling sidewalks of Soho’s Staunton Street, you’d be forgiven for overlooking the minimalist wood facade of Sushi Yonjugo, the newest Japanese eatery courtesy of Infinity Entertainment Group. But don’t let its subtle entrance fool you, because inside you’ll find one of the finest omakase restaurants to be had in the SAR. And, as any discerning diner is aware, this is quite a claim indeed.
Helming the small, brightly appointed 9-seater is Chef Milton Lau, a 35-year veteran of the art of Edomae-style sushi who has honed his craft with stints in Japan, Italy, the US and Australia. Under his guidance, the ever-changing tasting menu offers even experienced epicureans new culinary treats with every visit. For the uninitiated, omakase (roughly translating to ‘leave it up to you’) is a Japanese meal where each and every dish is selected by the chef without any set menu.
To ensure the consistency of his high-calibre offerings, Chef Lau is up well before the sun. “I speak to Japan’s best producers at 4am every morning and make sure that the high-quality ingredients are transported to our restaurant by 10am,” he explains. What results is an expansive experience that spans some 18 to 19 separate courses, available for both lunch (HK$1,580 per person) and dinner (HK$2,280 per head).
Charismatic and attentive, the personable chef started off our own tasting with the impressively plated Hanasaki Crab. A deliciously refreshing appetiser that’s just perfect to beat the summer heat, it featured chilled shredded meat topped with whole slivers of crab laced enticingly with a rich roe sauce that imparted a lovely rich texture – a guaranteed hit with any fan of this luxurious shellfish.
Next to arrive was the Tuna Jaw, an unusual section of what is perhaps the most popular sushi fish in the world. Rather than being served raw, the jaw, in this instance, was thoroughly cooked, doing away with the strong oceanic notes and replacing them with a gelatinous, almost meaty consistency that was as surprising as it was welcome. Accompanying the plate was a selection of condiments – lemon, spicy shredded radish, lemon and soy sauce – all heightening the tuna’s inherent flavour with aplomb.
Following this, we were served a series of freshly prepared sushi. Once again, Chef Lau revealed the depth of his seafood knowledge, eschewing commonly found fish in favour of more exotic fare. First, there was the Baby Sardine Sushi, a buttery and creamy concoction that emanates just a hint of smoky bitterness. Then, we sampled the Baraccuda Sushi, whose freshly grilled flesh was given a dash of richness thanks to a sprinkle of dried egg roe. Rounding out the trio was the Omi Wagyu Sushi, all melt-in-your-mouth umami goodness.
Last but certainly not least, the final standout of our tasting was undoubtedly the Italy-inspired Tuna Carpaccio. Light and refreshing, it possesses a tangy creaminess that is somewhat tempered with the judicious addition of seaweed rolls. A self-confessed homage to his years in Italy, this unique fusion of East-meets-West is proof positive that experimentation – when done well – can yield results far greater than the sum of its parts.
