Don Appétit: Savouring the flavours of celebrated chef Donovan Cooke’s life’s work

In the realm of gastronomy, there are chefs, and then there are culinary storytellers – those who, through their craft, weave together the flavours of their past, their journeys and their passion. Veteran chef Donovan Cooke, the creative genius behind the culinary magic at his new venture, Causeway Bay-based Donovan, is undoubtedly one such storyteller. His modern European menu has quickly captured the attention of the city’s foodies, making it a must-go-to restaurant for anybody looking for great food in the bustling heart of Hong Kong.

“The inspiration for the restaurant is basically being here in Hong Kong. I’m in the middle of the world with some of the best ingredients from around the world, and I have an opportunity to use and showcase the best of the ingredients following the seasons – and not so much following the seasons,” the chef laughs as he explains his ethos. “However, we are trying to maintain sustainability, and at the same time evolve classical combinations – which I’ve been doing for 40 years – in a more modern way.”

The roving Briton has been an instrumental figurehead in the fine- dining scene of wherever he has landed. At a young age, he was seasoned and nurtured in traditional French cuisine by the legendary, then-two-Michelin-starred Marco Pierre White at Harveys in London.

Embarking on his curious global journey, he headed first to France and then Australia, where his footprint was recognised by multiple accolades. Melbourne newspaper The Age’s Good Food Guide named him Chef of the Year in 2003 and 2004. He also made appearances on the reality TV show MasterChef Australia and co-authored the award-winning cookbook, Marriages. His dedication to innovation and new culinary excellence then won the hearts of local socialites and celebrities during a six-year stint at the helm of Derby Restaurant and Bar at the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

With each step, he absorbed new techniques, flavours and inspirations, enriching his culinary palate and ultimately bringing him to a Hong Kong homecoming late last year. His self-titled restaurant artfully combines his own heritage with a global perspective – a testament to his eclectic journey, offering diners an experience that transcends borders.

“I want to showcase a vast array of dishes here in my new restaurant, and the best way to do that is to do a Japanese-style tasting menu,” he says. “It’s a journey of eight to 10-12 courses, starting with refreshing light and then moving on to a richer main course. In the past, when I did à la carte, people just go for the things that they’re safe or that they know, so I decided to do it omakase-style because I want people to taste lots of different things that they normally wouldn’t order.”

The dinner-tasting menu at the time of our review kicks off with an artistic ensemble of appetisers such as truffle macaron; parmesan tart with onions and flowers; chicken liver parfait, apple and prune; and the house signature soy-sauce brioche. These are followed by seared tuna belly decorated with spiced tartare, celeriac, truffle dashi and shiso; and the heady combination of the spiced roasted blue lobster with foie gras, fig, port wine, chocolate and coffee.

One of his standout dishes is smoked olive oil confit salmon, seasoned with leek, razor clam, bone broth, salmon roe and chive oil. It’s a culinary masterpiece that captures the essence of Chef Donovan on a plate.

A meat lover’s dream comes in the form of Pyrenees milk-fed baby lamb with girolles, gnocchi and thyme jus, and the cooked to a mouth-watering medium-rare, pepper-crusted wagyu 9+ sirloin atop onions, bone marrow and Bordelaise sauce.

Desserts of spiced roasted pineapple with pain d’épices ice cream and tonka bean panna cotta with rhubarb, honeycomb and Stone’s ginger wine jelly form a perfect palate cleanser to this savoury culinary adventure.

Amid the elegant ambience and the warm embrace of European hospitality, Donovan is a testament to the power of roots, the influence of loved ones and the fusion of global experiences into tantalising dishes that have earned the well-travelled chef countless plaudits for his unparalleled contributions to gastronomy.

Donovan, 16/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Photos: DONOVAN Video: Jack Fontanilla

Fabric of Life: Dressing the table in crisp fine linen is the first step to refined dining

The table is the heart of the home, the place where families share the day-to-day, where big decisions and announcements are made, and where those most important to us gather for meals and celebrations. The tablecloth is vital in creating an elegant and welcoming atmosphere for dining together.

Whether in homes, hotels or smart restaurants, a tablecloth is the basis for a beautifully laid spread. While protecting the tabletop from spills, this extra layer of tactile pleasure also significantly reduces the clink of cutlery. At home, bespoke tablecloths are a great addition to any interior, enhancing the decorative theme of the dining space.

Celebrated in British dining culture, a crisp white linen tablecloth is also a part of the Hong Kong fine-dining and entertaining tradition due to our shared past. Today’s luxury table-linen purveyors offer countless choices of colour, pattern and material to suit any table and its surroundings.

Rivolta Carmignani

Historic brand Rivolta Carmignani (rivoltacarmignani.com), coveted for its bed linens and tablecloths for 150 years, employs a fully integrated, all-Italian manufacturing process that begins with the selection of precious yarns. The production combines ancient crafts like cutting, hemming and hand embroidery with the latest generation looms, ensuring durable, high-quality tablecloths. The skilled artisans of the atelier also offer a customisation service to make one’s choice of table dressing unique.

Rivolta Carmignani’s collections encompass a variety of weaves. Refined jacquard technology achieves the patterns of the Giardino Italiano line, as well as Boboli, a line of two contrasting solid colours in jacquard linen. Decoro embraces pure linen with clever three-dimensional effects, while Victorian delves into the family company’s archives for its decorative damask motif.

Precious pure cotton yarns (600 threads per square inch) create sophisticated sateen with a soft and silky hand. The Sateen Gold collection offers golden piping on crisp, sheen- like white cotton. Prices for linen tablecloths start at about HK$3,000.

La DoubleJ

The Italian-made fashion and tableware of former US journalist J.J. Martin brings vibrant joie de vivre to the tabletop. Launched in 2015, La DoubleJ (ladoublej.com) crafts linen tablecloths rooted in maximalist prints and the mood- boosting powers of chakra-conscious colours. An inspiring authority on energy elevation and the ebullient Italian way of life, the brand’s linens are made on the shores of Lake Como by local artisans, thus limiting their carbon footprint and boosting their feel-good vibe.

The Palms motif – in which bundles of palms in varying shades of green come together against a pale blue background – plays out across 100% Italian linen for a readymade centrepiece. Due to the handmade nature of the fabric, this medium-sized tablecloth features some small but charming irregularities, such as knots in the yarn.

White Turning Tulip and Wildbird Blu prints bring flora and fauna to the table respectively, while it would be hard to find a more intense colour-popping pattern than Colombo Grande. Mix and match La DoubleJ’s brilliant prints through napkins, runners and crockery for a veritable garden of delight. Tablecloths range from HK$2,500 to $4,000 in price.

Maison Margaux

Sourcing the world for unusual designs and pieces, Maison Margaux (maisonmargauxltd. com) is a luxury British homeware store selling everything for home entertaining – beautiful tablecloths, cutlery, crockery, glassware and bespoke accessories. Travelling from Portugal to Provence, and Italy to Istanbul, with inspirational visits to the English countryside and the Scottish Highlands, their collections conjure varying moods and expressions of nature. Everything is hand-selected by the team in a true labour of love.

Top of the line is the stunning hand- embroidered Noël Suzani tablecloth. Each intricate stitch is a testament to the craftsmanship behind this extraordinary collection, whose rich hues and tactile presence are a standout on every special occasion, not just Christmas.

From the pastel Turquoise Amelia in cotton, which perfectly captures the blush of spring, to the linen Burgundy Stripe in a Port- coloured pattern that nods to autumn warmth, there is a Maison Margaux tablecloth for every season. They also have collections suitable for weddings and formal events that may be rented rather than purchased. Prices (to buy) start from HK$1,300.

Summerill & Bishop

Founded in 1994 by June Summerill and Bernadette Bishop, two friends who shared an effortless sense of style, the Summerill & Bishop (summerillbishop.com) tablescape has a warm and slightly rustic vibe, but with a distinctly modern sensibility. Flowers and leaves feature on table linens that work both in the dining room and on the terrace, while abstract geometric patterns or stripes will complement any interior. Pieces are priced from HK$3,000 to HK$7,000.

Now operating two shops in London, S&B believes that if people take the time to lay the table and beautifully present a meal, they will enjoy it all the more and create a lasting memory for those who share it with them. To this end, the store offers a personalisation service on their Word, Cornice and Full Field table linens as well as some of their handmade porcelain bowls. Ideal as a gift or a personal keepsake of a memorable occasion, the Word collection enables a bold word, name or initials to be emblazoned on top-quality white linen.

In addition, a line of fine Italian linen tablecloths in a choice of classic and contemporary designs is hand-painted and printed by hand in a traditional stamperia. The most discerning customers, meanwhile, can dip into S&B’s limited-edition and made- to-order Couture collection which comprises the ivory-coloured Lyon lace tablecloth priced at HK$20,000 or three exquisite sequined designs at HK$53,000 each.

Asian Persuasion: Topped only by the harbour view, Cruise steers diners through a modern melting pot of cuisines

Those who have found themselves caught between two or more worlds know that matters of identity are never easy to explain. However, at Cruise Restaurant & Bar perched on the North Point waterfront it is all pretty straightforward. For both local foodies and astute tourists, this gorgeous location with a large outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Victoria Harbour puts a novel twist on rooftop dining. Chef de Cuisine Adisak Choksamritphon envisions the restaurant as a workshop or “studio” where various Asian cuisines can be explored and enjoyed in an upscale, modern setting.

Fun, unique and never one to take itself too seriously, Cruise has an independent attitude and upbeat music after dark. During the day, it is relaxed and informal. Delicious modern Asian food, inventive cocktails and breathtaking views provide the ideal environment for mingling.

“The idea of Cruise came about because of our location overlooking the city’s iconic harbour, which has historically been a key ‘lifeline’ in connecting local cultures and global communities,” explains Chef Choksamritphon. “In this regard, our food offers a modern and flavourful take on Asian cuisine to celebrate the diversity and cosmopolitan nature of Hong Kong’s foodie scene.”

Asian cuisine has far deeper roots than one may think, with influences from cultures all around the world. As presented here, it is consistently flavourful, sophisticated and tells the tale of at least a thousand distinct towns as well as a thousand more forgotten traditions. A native of Thailand but calling Hong Kong his second home for more than two decades, Chef Choksamritphon is best known for his contemporary takes on classics. In developing the Cruise menu, he made some adjustments to favourite recipes in order to suit local tastes. He achieves this by playing with sourness and saltiness, and fully honing in on his Thai roots.

He assures: “We are guided by Hyatt’s ‘Food; Thoughtfully-sourced. Carefully served’ philosophy, and do our best to practice ethical sourcing, using organic and sustainable ingredients wherever possible. I also like to think of our approach as being similar to home cooking – I aim to use items that are of the best quality, and use only natural ingredients, like spices, to enhance the flavours of my dishes.”

Creating dishes packed with flavour, executed with flair and served with a generous dose of spice, he offers carb-loaded comfort food – a pick-me-up to enjoy when having a bad day, or to fill you up while and after drinking. Enter the ‘Sharing is Caring’ section of the à la carte menu. On a huge hot plate, Westholme M4/M5 Australian wagyu Tomahawk steak rests on a bed of sizzling gochujang butter with dipping sauces and okra tempura on the side.

In a similar vein, grilled M6 Striploin comes with shishito peppers, green chilli salsa and yakiniku dipping sauce. Another crowd favourite for sharing is chilli lobster Singapore-style, incorporating tomato, chilli, ginger and egg. The homemade roti makes a good sauce scraper, ensuring each smattering of spice is appreciated and devoured.

For those favouring milder spice infusions, wok- fried sea bass makes a perfect choice. Green mango, Thai basil and tamarind help to elevate and balance the crispness of the fleshy fried fish.

“We always have special menus and events at Cruise, so guests can come any day of the week and have a great time,” enthuses the chef. “We have promotions like Lobster Night on Wednesdays and Tomahawk Night on Thursdays, and have just launched a new Hot Pot Night on Tuesdays. We also regularly bring in special guest chefs and mixologists for pop-ups.”

As a city built by immigrants, Hong Kong is ultimately a major hub for cultural diversity, and its cuisine followed suit. In that way, it shares a similar profile to the divine melting pot that is Cruise – sailing grandly through the multicultural hustle and bustle that marks the city’s eclectic dining scene.

Cruise, 23/F, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, North Point bit.ly/cruiserestaurantandbar

Photos: Cruise Restaurant & Bar Video: Jack Fontanilla

Hummus Hurrah: A home away from Beirut, Maison Libanaise brings epicurean joy to the heart of Hong Kong

The hubbub of laughter and feasting echoes against wood- block and salmon-pink painted walls and zellige tiles. Fine, dainty lamps suspended from the ceiling and no-fuss green wooden stools at the bar, while doing little to absorb the thrum, add lustre. Just these elements alone conjure an inviting haven for a long, slow nightcap after a long, frantic day.

Occupying a three-storey walk-up in the bustling SoHo district of Central, Maison Libanaise stands as a culinary oasis, offering a captivating escape to the vibrant flavours and rich traditions of Lebanon. With its warm ambience, friendly service and an extensive menu that showcases the best of the country’s cuisine, it has become a go-to destination for food enthusiasts seeking an authentic Middle Eastern experience – transporting diners to the streets of Beirut, or as Chef Teya Mikhael would have it, her childhood memory lane.

“My recipes are very home-inspired rather than restaurant-inspired,” she says. “We try to provide a real home experience. It’s a female-dominant kitchen, just like it is back home. It’s all mothers and ladies who give out dishes with so much love and so much beauty.” The exuberant chef bursts into laughter: “But I am not a mom – yet!”

Stepping inside Maison Libanaise is to be greeted by an inviting, cosy atmosphere, reminiscent of a traditional Lebanese home. It makes for an intimate experience – though perhaps a little too snug at times, depending on the size of the dining crowd. Just as personal is the service. Chef Mikhael chats to diners like she would to friends, sharing her personal recommendations from the drinks list which runs from Middle Eastern-inspired contemporary cocktails to largely familiar and beautiful wines.

“Lebanon has a really big wine scene with over 60 to 70 wineries’” she says. “Here, we have the biggest Lebanese wine list, which we really try to emphasise. The Lebanese way is best spent with wine in hand, over long and leisurely meals shared with friends and family. It’s so ingrained in me that I try to sneak a couple of bottles home whenever I can,” she adds, with a cheeky wink.

But what has seen the restaurant boom is the food – with guests returning many times to explore the broad menu designed around a charcoal and wood grill. Spices are sourced directly from Lebanon, with sumac, in particular, standing out. Enhancing the natural flavours of the food it is cooked with, deep- red sumac features in almost every dish in this vibrant restaurant. There are specific seasons for sumac berries and the tart, acidic spice is prepared and used in the traditional way. Like pomegranate molasses, which the culinary team also applies liberally, it is at the heart of Lebanese cuisine.

The new a la carte menu is inspired by dishes the chef made with her mother and grandmother when she was growing up. Each dish is an edible memoir of cherished recipes from her childhood in Lebanon, carefully curated and reimagined from her unique perspective. Exhibit A: Sujuk Bel Banadoura, a symphony of spicy, tangy and sweet notes showcasing grilled beef sausages with matbucha (Moroccan tomato salad) and pomegranate molasses.

Another crowd favourite, Hummus Araydis is a testament to the chef’s creative spirit, marrying her love for hummus with the fond memories of prawns she orders at her favourite beachside haunt. In this dish, the creamy chickpea purée dances with chives, coriander, lemon and chilli, and is crowned with prawns sautéed in Aleppo chilli oil.

Of course, Lebanese cuisine is entirely about the shared table, a balance of flavours and dishes, and the moment of bringing people together. The Mashewe Mshakal platter does just that, embracing beef kafta, beef skewers, shish taouk (chicken kebab), lamb chops and vegetable skewers accompanied with hearth-baked pita bread, sumac-roasted tomato, grilled onion and the holy trinity of harissa, toum and tahini (red chilli-, garlic- and sesame-based relishes) for dipping.

Maison Libanaise is all about celebration, food and fun, and as home to three layers of indoor and outdoor drinking and dining salons, the merry hubbub will only intensify.

Maison Libanaise, 10 Shelley Street, SoHo, Central. Tel: 2111 2284. maisonlibanaise.com.hk

Photos: Maison Libanaise Video: Jack Fontanilla

Sparkling Water: An Architect of flavours, Chef Ilaria Zamperlin showcases her passion for culinary artistry

The majority of us will, of course, prioritise the food when choosing a place for dinner. For some, though, the locale plays an equally important role in the overall dining experience; hence these restaurants frequently become attractions unto themselves. In the bustling city of Hong Kong, where culinary experiences abound, Aqua stands tall as an iconic destination – letting diners not only savour artistic dishes but also drink in exceptional sceneries.

At this awe-inspiring 17th-floor haven nestled almost atop H Zentre on the tip of Tsim Sha Tsui, diners are immersed in the unparalleled elegance of Italian cuisine, with its rich heritage and sophisticated flavours, while simultaneously meandering into the captivating realm of Japanese gastronomy, where tradition and innovation harmoniously coexist.

Aqua recently made waves in gastronomic circles with the announcement of a new Executive Chef, Ilaria Zamperlin. With her arrival, the storied Hong Kong culinary landmark embarks on a new chapter, blending Italian and Japanese cuisines under the watchful eyes of separate master chefs. As the first female chef to helm the Italian kitchen, Zamperlin brings her architectural background and two decades of culinary expertise to Aqua with the promise of a compelling dining experience.

“I think that cooking is very much like architecture; it’s all about laying down the perfect foundation,” she says. “At school, I would study different designs and prepare a series of sketches just for one project. I still do that with cooking. Precision and attention to detail are very important because my kitchen needs to replicate the same dishes every day. We need to make sure the foundations of the dish are there every time.”

Confit Suckling Pig, Carrots & Tropea Red Onion Puree and Balsamic Glazed Pear

Known for her ‘elevated Italian simplicity’, the chef has introduced a collection of Italian dishes on a new à la carte menu that moves from Rome to Tokyo. Among the many edible arts are appetisers of sweet Alaskan king crab dressed with caviar and green apple, and Sicilian red prawn carpaccio married with sea urchin and egg yolk emulsion.

Dover Sole Mugniaia Style, Carrot Puree, Crispy Leeks, Lemon and Caper Sauce

Pasta highlights include Braised duck ravioli and the Sicilian classic Tortelli ‘norma’, stuffed with creamy eggplant and served with the holy tricolour of Italy’s flag expressed through basil, aged ricotta and date tomato confit. Awash with deep flavours of the sea is the vibrant Champagne and lobster bisque risotto served tableside with baby squid, scallops and red prawns. A main of Dover sole, prepared in the mugnaia manner, is accompanied by crispy leeks, carrot purée and an enticing sauce of lemon and capers.

Tortelli ‘Norma’ with Eggplant, Aged Ricotta Sauce, Confit Date Tomatoes and Basil

With new creations like seared squid with prawn tempura roll; salmon, yellowtail, tuna and cream cheese roll with caviar; and homemade Abalone isoyaki with sea grape and tiger prawn sushi, Aqua’s Japanese kitchen, led by Executive Chef Iwahashi Tastuya, also offers a refreshing take on seafood.

The intimate low-lighting and laid-back atmosphere of the restaurant calls out for cocktails and thankfully, Aqua Spirit’s glamorous rooftop bar is happy to supply. There’s also something about the mirrored glass foyer, embellished with modern light fixtures, that feels very titillating, and the dining hall, full of pomp, buzzes with energy until closing. All these factors are reflected in this new Aqua menu.

“The ingredients, the shape, the texture – honestly, there are so many components that go into one dish,” expounds Zamperlin. “For me, sparking curiosity is key when it comes to making the perfect dish. Sometimes, it can be a simple recipe, but the aroma of fresh ingredients and the presentation can spark intrigue and surprise from the moment it touches the table to the first bite, leading to satisfaction.”

Boundaries fade away on a gastronomic journey that transcends borders and cultures. Seamlessly blending Eastern and Western, Aqua allows diners the freedom to curate their own culinary adventure, where each bite tells a story of harmonious fusion.

Aqua, 17/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 3427 2288. aqua.com.hk

Experience Classic New York Dining with A Curated Selection of Premium Beef from Eight Nations at New York Cut – Central’s Premier American Steakhouse

A brand-new American steakhouse called New York Cut has debuted in H Queen’s on Central. With an excellent selection of premium beef from eight different nations in Europe, America, and Asia, the restaurant specializes in serving up premium steak dishes. New York Cut is committed to upholding the best standards in beef quality, cuts, rearing practices, and aging processes. It imports beef from the United States, Italy, Spain, Argentina, Australia, the United Kingdom, Japan, and South Korea.

New York Cut takes a contemporary and light-hearted approach to redefining the classic upscale steakhouse concept. The main dining space and bar have an excellent collection of art pieces with a New York theme that guests can admire. Each piece captures the rich cultural diversity and artistic legacy of the city. The restaurant’s unique steaks, which are expertly sourced from all over the world and have rich marbling, soft textures, and juicy delights, are the centrepiece of the menu. Every steak has a distinct flavour character, and the chef offers nine different secret sauce options in addition to making sure each steak is cooked to perfection.

In addition to its signature steaks, the steak house also offers a range of other main course dishes, including grilled whole live cod, roasted lamb chops, pan-seared pork tomahawk, and a classic grilled whole spring chicken. These specialty dishes showcase the culinary expertise of the chefs, ensuring that both steak enthusiasts and those with other preferences can enjoy an exceptional dining experience.

A variety of traditional American desserts are also available at the restaurant, including the velvety and rich “Black Hand” Tiramisu, the moist and fudgy Marilyn Brownie served with the famed Japanese CREMIA Ice Cream, the delicious New York Cheesecake served with homemade raspberry sorbet, and the fluffy Souffle with homemade mango sorbet that is the restaurant’s signature dish.

New York Cut is dedicated to giving its customers an outstanding eating experience. The beef used in the restaurant comes from a number of nations, including Argentina, South Korea, Australia, California, Italy, Spain, and the United Kingdom. The restaurant stands out from other steakhouses because of its dedication to quality and creativity.

New York Cut, 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2555 0666

Ones to Remember: Award-Winning Interiors and Divine Dishes Ensure a Blissful Evening at 1111 Ones

Upscale Italian and French food becomes the food of the angels at 1111 Ones, the Central restaurant that checks off all the requirements for a pleasurable modern European dining experience – superb cuisine, chic and opulent interiors, top-notch beverages and more – then daringly elevates them to a higher plane.

Named for an angel number that celebrates new beginnings in life’s journey, 1111 Ones draws on the vision and direction of Chef Chris Chan, a culinary specialist with more than two decades of expertise and a prestigious background at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. The unhurried interiors are reminiscent of the much-photographed Antelope Canyon in Arizona. Undulating waves of the high vaulted ceiling and warm, rusty colour tones are further highlighted by a wooden floor, straightforward wooden chairs and tables and accents of grey rock formations.

A bar with a marble countertop grounds the area, and its line-up of Italian liqueurs waiting to be served is another of the many unique touches in this dining room. All of these elements made the restaurant an overall winner of the 2022 International Restaurant & Bar Design Awards.

“It is said that those who continuously see this angel-number sequence will have great things coming their way. We are dedicated to providing a tranquil environment with divine food, where guests can forget about their life qualms and truly feel at peace,” proclaims Chef Chan.

Just as the interior features aim to seduce the old and new guard, the menu also succeeds in pleasing both. A fresh ingredients plate presenting the key elements of the tasting menu is provided before diners start their culinary trip so the mind can be primed for the gastronomic offerings ahead.

Chan personally selected the French Oscietra caviar for the first course. The second appetiser sees toro – the fatty underbelly of Japanese bluefin tuna – uniting with Hokkaido sea urchin and the fresh tomato consommé jelly.

The next dish features monkfish liver, cooked using the same technique as foie gras to achieve a similar texture and flavour. Morel is another luxurious creation, with the prized scented French mushrooms prepared in a method borrowed from Asian-style kitchens. It is stuffed with cuttlefish paste and served with squid on the side.

Amadai urokoyaki – tilefish grilled with its scales intact – is a standout among the main courses. The flavour of the fish is enhanced by the crispy scales and further highlighted by the accompanying onion chutney. African yellow croaker fish maw is another prominent dish, presented on top of a French-style lobster soup and rice crispies, giving the combination of tastes a distinctive twist.

The meat main of Hida beef – a supreme wagyu from Japan’s Gifu prefecture – is served with fresh parsnip and asparagus as well as a purée of pumpkin and black garlic. Alternatively, the Spanish deep-sea red treasure of carabinero is grilled on binchotan (Japanese white charcoal), presented with tom yum- infused puntine and augmented by roasted straw mushrooms, dried lime slices and Thai basil emulsion.

Desserts, of course, are not to be missed. The beetroot sweet is served with Granny Smith apple chunks and jam and topped by a French-style baked meringue. The second dessert melds chestnut and chrysanthemum – rich chestnut paste wrapped around vanilla mousse and served with smooth and sweet chrysanthemum ice cream and tangy dried fruit.

The chef will offer guests a yuzu sake jelly that resembles a Daruma doll at the conclusion of the meal, in a nod to the angel number.

While those of us who venture here for a rare night of dizzying culinary bliss will return back to earth to our go-to comfort food, whenever we sit down to a European meal, we will be reminded of 1111 Ones and all we have been missing.

1111 Ones Restaurant & Lounge, 11/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2910 1128, 1111ones.com

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: 1111 Ones Video: Jack Fontanilla

Rice Rhapsody: In a city where rice is life, Sushi Haru’s Chef Hirokuni Shiga orchestrates a masterful omakase

As Asians, we tend to gravitate to a bowl of piping hot rice to satisfy our hunger at any time of the day. But there’s the undeniable draw of something more, for which sushi, Japan’s heart of culinary offerings, sparks an entirely new love affair. The presence of countless establishments paying homage to the intricacies and revelations of Japan’s heart of culinary offerings underscores the Hong Kong craving for raw fish atop vinegared rice.

Taking over the hinoki wood dining counter of just exactly eight seats, Chef Hirokuni Shiga is flexing his faultless sense of taste at the intimate setting of Sushi Haru, at the top of Wyndham Street in Central. This humble master of Edomae sushi began his career at his family’s kappo-style restaurant and it wasn’t until he was in his early 20s that, at the invitation of his father’s friend, he had his first encounter with omakase sushi. He began an apprenticeship, and from then on, his imaginative culinary creations have captivated diners.

”What I think makes us stand out is that I am able to incorporate everything I have learned in kappo and kaiseki dining into the dishes I serve,” says Shiga, who doesn’t shy from sharing his own story from behind the counter. “For example, depending on the piece of fish I am serving, I use different types of rice and details like this help to shape the guest’s experience.”

Both Hong Kong and Japan are known for wearing their history as a badge of honour. Although it may seem that tradition and modernity are forever in flux, Sushi Haru manages to pay homage to the past while expressing a contemporary vibe. The Zen aesthetic is further enhanced by a display of minimal-themed, charcoal- based framed drawings and a grey and brown colour combination – the only two hues evident throughout the restaurant.

But of course, there’s the sushi, the main star of the show, as well as the chef showing off his knife skills while finely slicing a selection of seafood. His kitchen balances flavour and subtlety without coming off at all gimmicky and then splashes of vivid, varied colour are served dish after dish. Think akami (lean red tuna), shiromi (white fish), nimono (simmered fish), kai (shellfish), ika (squid), tako (octopus), ebi (shrimp), kani (crab) and gyoran (fish roe).

But of all these sensational toppings, it’s the hikarimono (silver-skinned fish) that Shiga names as his personal favourite. “I am most proud of our kohada [gizzard shad] and kasugo [young sea bream] because, although they are the most labour- intensive, the hard work can be tasted in the result,” he says. “Oftentimes, in the world of sushi, a true test of a sushi chef is in how they prepare kohada.”

There’s also good news for newcomers to East Asia who have yet to master chopsticks. “You can eat with your fingers or you can use chopsticks,” he adds, smiling. The dexterous chef also beguiles his audience with his step-by-step method of assembling a perfectly shaped sushi, which involves gently pressing the fish onto the rice.

In between exquisite bites, sake and beer add a smooth, subtle sweetness to the night’s bouquet of flavours. Shiga, who is often caught raising a glass or two with his audience, also brings a citrusy kick via a fruit-infused sake to the table.

“Sushi, if you are to just look at it, is not too complicated, but the amount of care that is put into it should always be reflected on the faces of your guests,” he emphasises. “That is when you know you have succeeded.”

The looks of joyous satisfaction around the table as our omakase feast concludes is a testament to both Sushi Haru and Chef Hirokuni Shiga’s triumph. Rice will always be appealing anywhere on this side of the world, but Sushi Haru truly goes far beyond satisfying a craving.

Sushi Haru, Mezzanine, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2111 1450

Photos: Jack Fontanilla / Sushi Haru Video: Jack Fontanilla

Spice Fixing – The inventive dishes at the Gaylord Indian Restaurant keep getting better

Ask an Indian friend where to find the best Indian food in Hong Kong and the prompt answer will be: “At our house.” It is not feasible, though, to show up at a friend’s home, let alone unannounced, whenever we crave Indian food. Within the bustling cityscape of Tsim Sha Tsui, the thriving local Indian community has unabashedly and generously shared its culinary heritage with those of us who can’t get enough of the country’s spice-infused favourites. A standout among all of these establishments is the Gaylord Indian Restaurant, which has been operating since 1972.

“We have kept our menu true to its Indian roots while also adapting to the change of times in food trends,” says owner and general manager Rajeev Bhasin. “It makes my heart full when I see frequent customers now have grandkids that they also bring here. I hope we’ll have another 50 years to celebrate with them.”

Like its palatable offerings, Gaylord’s interior design makes a lasting impression. A wall of art and gold photo frames and a golden Ganesha greet diners, beckoning the way into what is seemingly a two-room design. The restaurant proudly displays a dazzling new façade via peacock teal and bright orange upholstered booths and chairs that contrast with the salmon-pink walls. Envisioned to be a place with a lot of colours, the overall effect pays tribute to both India’s history and modern culture. The previously wood-carved pillar partitions now breathe new life, dangling as accents to the already exceptional ceilings. It is with this consideration of detail that diners will encounter the intimacy of Gaylord’s India with a touch of Hong Kong influence. The space is, indeed, a veritable feast for the eyes and any Instagram feed.

Of course, it’s the food that is the real star here, where authentic recipes have been tweaked to perfection for a one-of-a-kind Indian dining experience. Indian cuisine is, after all, among the world’s most enticing due to its vibrant colours and unusual spices. It has alternatives that suit every palate and diet and is distinctive while still being diversified. Such is the wonder of the 50th-anniversary tasting menu created by guest Master Chef Sanjeev Kapoor, which is unassumingly divided into categories like Relish, Amuse Bouche, Appetisers, Tandoori & Kabab Course, Main Course and Dessert.

Chilli Pineapple Sambal and Poppadum paired with Prawn Balchao Puri with Solkadhi [note: the menu online says Mushroom] make a great introduction to this spice-centred show. The soft, hollow dough balls are stuffed with prawns sprinkled with Goan spices and ooze with kokum-flavoured coconut milk. Vegetable Samosa, the ubiquitous Indian street snack that is a Gaylord classic, makes a cameo, its fried coned pastry filled with spiced potatoes and green peas.

The harmony of both flavour and fragrance continues with Lemongrass Paneer Malai Tikka. Chunks of tandoor-grilled homemade cottage cheese with a hint of lemongrass and cream complement the stuffed kidney-bean cakes blended with aromatic spices of Rajma Bean Galouti Kabab, which come atop masala-baked bread.

Like many Indian dishes, the renditions at Gaylord often come in pairs. Truffle Dum Jackfruit, subtly spiced and slowly cooked with coconut milk and truffle cream, is accompanied by Saffron Basmati Pulao Rice. Another flavourful favourite pairing is Shaam Savera with Smoked Pepper Makhani and Baby Beetroot and Walnut Raita. A signature main of the celebrity chef, the creamy balls are rolled in spinach purée and presented on a bed of smoked pepper sauce. Also of note are saucy Indian staples like black dal, which Kapoor elevates in Lalla Mussa Dal. The 36-hour slow-cooked green and black lentil dish, enlivened with a blend of aromatic herbs, is best enjoyed with freshly baked naan stuffed with ricotta cheese and truffle pâté.

To satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth, Baked Jaggery Yogurt with Peach and Walnut ends this degustation demonstration with a wow. If that still isn’t enough, then make sure to save a little space for the cardamom- and saffron-infused homemade ice cream, Kesar Kulfi – one of the original offerings from the restaurant’s launch just over 50 years ago.

GAYLORD INDIAN RESTAURANT, 5/F, Prince Tower, 12A Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2376 1001

Photos: Gay Lord Indian Restaurant

Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience

For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.

Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.

Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”

Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.

The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.

Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.

The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.

Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”

Auor. 4/F, no. 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai
(852) 2866 4888 auor.com.hk

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio Photos: Auor)