Nikkei Indulgence: A Peruvian-Japanese fusion master weaves culinary originality within the dreamscapes of Honjo

Tucked away in the vibrant neighbourhood of Sheung Wan lies one of the dining world’s best-kept secrets: Honjo. With its innovative spirit and a twist on traditional tastes, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine has captured the hearts (and stomachs) of locals and visitors alike – or, as their tasting menus highlight, Dreamers and Travellers. So if you are a foodie ready for an edible adventure, buckle your taste buds – things are about to get deliciously progressive.

With the arrival of Executive Chef Sandro Montero’s new à la carte menu, Honjo takes diners on a spectacular culinary journey that pays homage to Japanese techniques while incorporating rich, global flavours. You may be wondering what in the world a South American chef is doing serving Japanese cuisine in Hong Kong, but never fear – Montero brings some serious flair to the dining scene that you won’t want to miss.

The Peruvian culinary wizard’s almost 20 years of experience has taken him from the colourful streets of Lima to Brazil, Indonesia and beyond, armed with a fascinating take on Nikkei cuisine – Peruvian-Japanese fusion – that masterfully blends familiar tastes with unexpected elements. “My transition from Peruvian and Nikkei cuisine to Japanese dining at Honjo has been an exciting challenge,” shares the globetrotting chef, who landed in Hong Kong in October last year. “I believe my diverse background allows me to create culinary experiences that surprise and delight.”

He certainly delivers on this assertion. Honjo’s menu is a tantalising tapestry of gastronomical delights. From the very first bite of the unagi – a sweet, smoky fried eel sushi that’s dressed to impress with parmesan spicy sauce and a luscious tobiko mix – to a delicate hamachi salad drizzled with vibrant yuzu, your taste buds will be doing a happy little dance!

For those with a penchant for deep-sea delicacies, plump oysters luxuriate in a zesty yuzu, ponzu and sriracha dressing that won’t fail to leave you dreaming of ocean breezes and sandy shores. Who needs a beach when you can travel to Japan via Thailand and back with just a few mouthwatering bites? Lobster maki, meanwhile, is a truly extravagant roll, perfectly sous vide and topped with tempura asparagus and creamy mayo mentaiko sauce, that makes you question all past sushi experiences.

If you’re into group outings, diving into one of Honjo’s tasting menus is highly recommended. Whether The Dreamer or The Traveller, each weaves a captivating culinary narrative through evolving seasonal dishes that shout creativity and passion. Inventive sake and wine pairings heighten the drama. “The inspiration behind the menus is capturing the journeys we take in life,” shares Montero. “Each experience is designed to encourage guests to return time and time again.”

A chef is only as good as their team, and Chef Sandro is clearly a master of his art. “The team is the backbone of our kitchen, and every one of their contributions has shaped the vision for Honjo,” he elaborates. It shows, too – their harmonious work ethic and respect for ingredients breathe life into every dish, and a culture of joy and discipline is championed on each plate.

Stepping into Honjo is like entering a vibrant dreamscape of colours and textures that nod to Japanese aesthetics. It’s not just dining; it’s an event with themed rooms that allow you to escape the mundane. You find yourself daydreaming about the next dish – a comforting, sweet-savoury bowl of seafood kamameshi, perhaps, cooked in an iron pot that will surely warm the heart and fill the soul.

Whether you are a sushi novice or a raw-fish aficionado, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine offers a sensational experience that promises not only satisfaction but also surprises galore. Prepare your palate for an unforgettable journey – you might just find your new happy place in this delightful blend of tradition and innovation.

Honjo. 1/F, 77-91 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Photos: Honjo Video: Jack Fontanilla

Clarence De Lune: A new Michelin-starred chef lights up fresh French dining amid dazzling night views

Clarence has become a new culinary beacon under the guidance of Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt, a fresh arrival from acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in France. As he unveils his inaugural dinner menu, the excitement is palpable. DeSchmitt seems utterly thrilled to dive into the vibrant melting pot that is Hong Kong. “My journey in Asia is not just a professional shift; it’s about rediscovering my love for food through fresh perspectives,” he shares.

With chic décor combined with 25th-floor views that dazzle over bustling streets, the atmosphere removes any notion of pretentiousness while maintaining a refined aura. “It’s essential to create a space that feels both inviting and sophisticated,” notes the chef. And this restaurant achieves just that.

Dinner opens with the beef tartare served in bone marrow topped with a side of baguette toast. This dish is a jazz concert of textures and flavours, where the robust richness of the marrow encounters the delicate nuances of tender raw beef, all while a crispy crostini adds a relay of crunch. Schmitt remarks: “I wanted to modernise classic dishes. This tartare honours French traditions but introduces different textures for a surprising and fresh experience.”

Should you be seeking meat-less delight, look no further than beetroot and fresh goat cheese ravioli, a play of sweetness enveloped in divine pasta. The accompanying beetroot juice lends a colourful vibrance while ginger and lime pull everything into balance, revealing a dish that is as beautiful as it is delicious. Schmitt’s personal favourites infiltrate the menu; this ravioli harkens back to his admiration for artisanal goat’s cheese discovered in the South of France.

For those who find joy in the ocean’s gifts, smoked salmon with potato waffle dances over the palate, and BBQ octopus with potato foam delivers succulent tenderness that imparts warmth and satisfaction without crossing into heaviness. Clarence encourages patrons to embrace the camaraderie of shared dining; each dish has been crafted not only to tantalise the senses but also to foster moments of togetherness – the intent is for diners to savour flavours while creating memories alongside family and friends.

Transitioning into mains, beef fillet and foie gras pithivier stands as a beacon of indulgence. The dish teams luxurious beef and foie gras encased in flaky pastry with a truffle vinaigrette salad. It’s a decadent juxtaposition of textures designed to transcend through freshness. Schmitt reflects on this creation, noting the artistry of the pastry craft: “Each element must blend into a harmonious experience.”

Seafood aficionados will rejoice in skate wing cooked on the bone, where brown butter and spices add a depth that feels comforting. Paired with an endive and Comté salad, the freshness of the greens cuts through the richness of the fish – a perfect dance of flavours with each bite yielding a new sensory revelation.

End your meal with the chef’s playful take on dessert. Croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream steals the show, marrying the crispy delights of croissant-cum-waffle into one daring vessel of sweetness. And if your heart longs for warmth, hot chocolate moelleux, with its molten chocolate centre served with sumptuous ice cream, promises sweet surrender.

Beyond the dishes lies a dining philosophy that emphasises seasonality and local ingredients, and Schmitt passionately invokes the necessity of this connection. The use of Japanese sea urchin, for instance, reflects his adaptability to local produce while maintaining the finesse of his French roots. “This balance highlights how local Asian ingredients can reinvent classic dishes,” he explains.

Clarence’s carefully curated and affordably priced dinner menu offers an exceptional experience, reinforcing the new chef’s vision of a dining journey where every detail has been examined.

True enough, Clarence is a testament to the magic unleashed when French tradition interlaces with the vibrant essence of Asia. Bon appétit!

Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong

Photos: Clarence Video: Jack Fontanilla

Palate Playground: Modern Indian wonderland Leela is joyfully rooted in the flavours of a vast culinary heritage

The name Leela stems from the Hindu concept of ‘divine play’, and what better way to embody that than with a menu that dances between the ancient and the avant-garde? Chef Manav Tuli, an Indian gastronomy virtuoso, helms the kitchen with infectious passion and an innovative approach to traditional recipes. Each dish is a vibrant palette of colours and spices, telling its own story while being anchored in India’s rich culinary heritage.

As the seasons change, so too does the menu, unveiling a slew of new creations crafted to tantalise the taste buds while paying homage to regional Indian inspirations. One standout is jackfruit and soya keema dabeli, an imaginative reinterpretation of a beloved street food from Gujarat that, with its tangy tamarind chutney and luscious caramelised onions, conjures the all-consuming sensation of strolling through the bustling markets of India.

“My approach has always been to present food authentically while incorporating Ayurvedic principles and local ingredients,” explains Chef Tuli. “I believe in preserving the soul of Indian cuisine by honouring our roots while giving individual ingredients the attention they deserve through optimal cooking methods. This process is ever-evolving and represents an exciting journey for any chef.”

A collaboration between Tuli – formerly of Chaat – and Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, Leela opened late last year and already has awards in the bag, including the prestigious Michelin Recommended Restaurant accolade. The modern Indian oasis is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for foodies and culture-seekers alike.

If it’s culinary nostalgia you crave, look no further than the chef’s chicken tikka kulcha. This delightful dish fuses juicy grilled chicken with pillowy Indian flatbread, accompanied by marinated onions and an animated mint and tomato chutney. Chicken tikka mirza hasnu pays tribute to the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah, inviting anyone to savour char-grilled chicken infused with a symphony of spices such as cloves, cardamom and smoky mango powder.

For seafood enthusiasts, tandoori squid emerges as a masterpiece, showcasing tandoor-charred U3 squid marinated in Kashmiri chilli. And if anyone considers lamb a monotonous affair, they’ll have to think again. Kandhari lamb chop morphs into a succulent delight with ginger juice and pomegranate marrying the rich flavours of Afghanistan’s Kandahar region.

Diners can also indulge in duck jardaloo, a Parsi classic reimagined with duck breast, soaked in the divine sweetness of dried apricots, or savour the communal spirit of the chaat platter, a delicious array of tangy Indian snacks that traces its roots back to the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. But beyond just tantalising flavours, it champions sustainability. Chef Tuli ensures that the ingredients are local and fresh, embodying the ethos of using seasonal produce to minimise environmental impact while delivering peak flavour. Lotus root and edamame pulao is just one example of this commitment, using locally sourced ingredients like lotus and edamame in a refreshing medley that speaks both to the land and the palate.

“I aspire for guests to leave with a sense of discovery connected to Indian cuisine’s essence – experiencing its depth of flavours and cultural significance through each dish telling a story rooted in my culinary journey across India’s diverse traditions,” he notes. “Dining at Leela should be more than just a meal; it should be an exploration of Indian culinary heritage that fosters connection and curiosity about what Indian cuisine offers beyond typical expectations.”

The dining escapism at Leela is not just about feeding the body, but nourishing the spirit with each delightful bite. It’s more than a meal; it’s an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of Indian cuisine – a vibrant montage of spices, history and joy. Whether you’re a connoisseur of Indian flavours or a curious newcomer, the culinary playground at Leela promises to captivate your senses. Gather your friends and jump into this immersive Indian feast that celebrates food, culture and the art of communal dining like no other.

LEELA, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

North Star: A fusion of history and contemporary mastery, Hutong’s hero dishes lead gourmets to heavenly highs

Hutong is not just a restaurant; it’s a vibrant canvas where the rich tapestry of Northern Chinese cuisine comes to life. Step into this exquisite dining venue and the elegant décor inspired by the traditional hutongs of Beijing envelops you in an atmosphere that feels both contemporary and steeped in history.

A sensational four-hands collaboration recently united colleagues and culinary virtuosos Cheung Yung-keung, Head Chef of Hutong Hong Kong, and Ren Dingxu, Head Chef of Hutong Dubai, with each bringing their extensive expertise and deep-rooted passion for the cuisines of two distinct Chinese regions. “I sought to capture the essence of Shanghainese cuisine, which is known for its rich, savoury flavours and meticulous preparation,” shares Chef Cheung about his inspiration for the collaboration. “These dishes are my homage to the culinary traditions of Shanghai, brought to life through the lens of contemporary dining.”

A symphony of flavours began with an exquisite tea-smoked pigeon, a dish that pays homage to Shanghai’s culinary traditions. Tender squab is braised and delicately smoked with Biluochun tea leaves and fragrant roses from Jiangsu. The first bite was a revelation; the subtle smokiness danced on the palate, leaving a sophisticated aftertaste that lingered, enticing the senses for what lies ahead.

Next to arrive, the dim-sum platter was a feast for both the eyes and the palate. This trio featured a lobster dumpling, where sweet lobster meets a hint of spicy seafood essence; a peach gum mushroom dumpling, inspired by ancient Chinese medicinal texts; and a wagyu beef green chilli dumpling, combining premium wagyu with the fiery kick of Sichuan’s tiger-skin peppers. Each piece is a testament to the chefs’ dedication to quality and innovation.

Honouring tradition with a modern twist, the evening continued with the braised fillet of eel with bean sprouts and dark soy sauce. Here, a secret dark soy sauce recipe enhances the fish, resulting in a dish that epitomises tenderness and richness. The contrast of lightly stir-fried bean sprouts adds a fresh crunch, creating a harmonious balance that celebrates traditional Shanghai flavours.

Following this was Sichuan-style Chilean sea bass with bamboo shoots, providing a modern twist on classic preparations. Grilled to perfection, the fish is enveloped in a vibrant homemade jiao mao sauce, with the bamboo shoots contributing a refreshing texture that elevates the dish. The culinary journey took a bold turn with the spicy suckling pig with kung po sauce, a delightful nod to Shanghai’s braised pork. For this dish, pulled pork belly infused with Hutong’s signature chilli oil is paired with crispy suckling pig skin, creating a delightful contrast of textures and a symphony of spicy savouriness that tantalises the taste buds.

Another showstopper dish, Spanish red prawns with crispy rice in seafood broth, reflected the luxurious nature of this special menu. Prawns bathed in a rich, lobster-infused broth are complemented by crispy rice, providing a captivating crunch that enhances the seafood’s natural sweetness. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly flaming wagyu beef char siu. A5 wagyu chuck ribs flambéed with rose liqueur and rum and accompanied by shiny Muscat grapes and kumquat create a dramatic presentation that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The rich, tender beef paired with the sweet, tangy fruit delivers a flavour explosion that is unforgettable.

“These dishes are my tribute to the dynamic culinary heritage of my native Sichuan,” says the visiting Chef Ren.

As a sweet conclusion, the Golden Fortune dessert is a symbol of prosperity and celebration. Inspired by the lychee varieties of Lingshan County in Guangxi, this refreshing finale features lychee purée, ginger sorbet and lemongrass. It was an aromatic end to an extraordinary meal, with the optional wine and sake pairings further enhancing each dish.

Whether you are a connoisseur of Chinese food or a curious newcomer, Chef Cheung orchestrates an unforgettable culinary journey nightly at Hutong in Hong Kong.

Hutong, 18/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Photos: Hutong Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Salt Shaker: Under Ricardo Chaneton, The Upper House’s Salisterra exudes a richer, more elevated Mediterranean high

Nestled high within the sophisticated environs of The Upper House Hotel in Pacific Place, Salisterra flies diners to the heart of the Mediterranean. Now guided by the skilled hand of Chef Ricardo Chaneton, the restaurant’s refreshed menu is a spirited testament to the rich diversity and abundant seasonal bounty of the sun-kissed region.

Since opening in 2021, Salisterra has been rooted in the vital soul of the Mediterranean, seamlessly blending contemporary flair with authentic, time-honoured flavours. Named for the salt of the earth, it has now upped its gastronomic game, drawing inspiration from the energetic Venezuelan, his European ancestry and extensive fine-dining experience at three-starred hotspots on the southern Spanish and French coasts.

“The refreshed Salisterra menu is a vibrant tribute to Mediterranean cuisine, inspired by my Italian heritage and the flavours I discovered during my time in Dénia, Spain, and the Côte d’Azur, France,” explains the celebrated chef. “Through the modern interpretation of classic dishes, I aim to express the true essence of the Mediterranean, where every meal is a harmonious blend of traditional, fresh and familiar flavours.”

And vibrant it certainly is. The new summer a la carte menu abounds with bold, contemporary dishes that showcase the rich diversity of the region. Among the appetisers, Octopus is an animated, refreshing creation, rubbed in Greek herbs, slow-cooked until tender then paired with the sweet-tart notes of pomegranate, orange and basil.

Another standout is Meloso Rice, a Spanish-inspired creamy rice dish that brings the umami richness of morels and fava beans to the fore. “This is one of our signature items, reflecting my passion for Mediterranean cuisine and the depth of flavours that can be achieved with traditional cooking techniques,” says Chaneton.

The collaboration between the Michelin-starred chef of Mono fame and The Upper House culinary team has been instrumental in reshaping the Salisterra dining experience. In his role as culinary advisor, Chaneton works closely with the in-house chefs to express this elevated concept, crafting a menu that truly celebrates the Mediterranean, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients that deliver authenticity.

The response has been overwhelmingly positive. Regulars have praised the consistent quality and attention to detail that goes into each dish, as well as the fresh, vibrant flavours that seal Salisterra’s reputation as a standout culinary destination. Looking ahead, diners can expect the menu to continue evolving with the seasons of the Mediterranean and exemplifying the best of the region’s offerings.

“The menu changes every few months to reflect the seasonality of the ingredients,” shares the chef. “We also have some exciting culinary events planned for later this year, so guests can look forward to experiencing the spirit of the Mediterranean in new and innovative ways.”

Beyond the food, the Salisterra experience is designed to capture the essence of the Mediterranean, with an atmosphere that exudes warmth, generosity, and a sense of opulent plentitude. “Guests can expect to feel the same hospitality and convivial spirit that is so integral to the Mediterranean way of life,” he enthuses. “The tables are filled with an abundance of dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients that reflect the vast and diverse landscape of the region.”

Within the broader strokes of Hong Kong gastronomy, Salisterra stands tall as a unique and captivating dining destination – and not just for its perch above Pacific Place and magnificent sunset views. “Hong Kong is renowned for its eclectic dining scene, and Salisterra brings a modern, seasonal, Mediterranean concept to the city’s diverse culinary landscape,” says Chaneton. “It’s the perfect combination of casual charm and refined sophistication, providing guests with an approachable yet luxurious dining experience that celebrates the rich cultural heritage of the Mediterranean.”

Salisterra, Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong

Photos: Salisterra – The Upper House Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Carna Lore: Beef brilliance and reverence shine equally at Carna by Dario Cecchini, the famed butcher of Tuscany

Nose-to-tail dining could hardly be more sophisticated than at Carna by Dario Cecchini in Mondrian Hong Kong, where the Tuscan master butcher – lauded as the world’s greatest – has joined forces with fast-rising chef Daniele Milliani in a renaissance-style sanctuary conceived by renowned interior designer Joyce Wang. Astounding views of Hong Kong’s harbour and skyline from the 39th floor of the hotel located in the heart of buzzing Tsim Sha Tsui adds to the sense of occasion.

Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become Hong Kong’s hot table nonpareil; it is the first Carna in Asia, joining sister restaurants in Dubai and the Bahamas. The name signals a feast of meat, and during an exclusive chef’s table tasting experience, culinary theatre is duly conjured from a variety of premium beef cuts and the butchery tradition of using every single scrap to great effect.

“The meats served at Carna are sourced from carefully selected farms and purveyors known for their commitment to quality and sustainability,” explains Senior Sous Chef Billy Yau. “We work closely with these suppliers to ensure the animals are raised using ethical and humane practices.”

Most of the beef undergoes an extensive dry-ageing process in Carna’s specialised temperature and humidity-controlled ageing room. This process takes between 45 and 60 days, during which time the enzymes in the meat naturally break down the connective tissues, concentrating the flavours and tenderising the texture to create the signature deep, rich taste and melt-in-your-mouth quality of Carna’s meats.

The chef’s table experience is an exceptional opportunity to witness culinary mastery firsthand. One highlight is the tableside preparation of a sublime beef tartare, where the chef expertly hand-chops the lean, flavourful meat and combines it with a simple yet impactful marinade of garlic, paprika, lemon, chilli, Chianti salt and olive oil. The result is a pure and explosive taste that coats the palate with a deep, salty, meaty savour and a subtle kick of heat.

“Carna is a butcher’s project, shifting away from the classic steakhouse concept toward the idea of a ‘whole-cow house’,” says Chef Yau. “The spirit here is to make the animal’s sacrifice more respectful and sustainable by embracing the idea that there is no ‘best cut’ – rather, every part of the animal, if prepared with care and expertise, can be equally delicious.”

To bring this philosophy to life, the menu offers an extensive selection of 18 different beef cuts, from classic options like tongue and beef shank to more unique and lesser-known cuts like the Etruscan (from the cow’s forequarter) and the tail. Each is treated with the utmost attention, showcasing how every element of the animal can shine when handled with the proper techniques and reverence.

This holistic approach not only elevates the dining experience but also reflects Carna’s commitment to sustainability. By embracing the entire cow, the restaurant aims to make the most of each animal and minimise waste, ensuring a more responsible and environmentally-conscious approach to sourcing and serving premium beef.

Alternatives to all this meat can be found in ‘The Garden’ section of the menu, as well as seafood mains like Italian sea bass with capers, garlic, Taggiasche olives and anchovies and tagliolini with calamari spillo, mussel, potato foam and roasted bell pepper coulis.

To complement the premium beef-focused menu, Carna offers an impressive selection of wines, with a focus on the top Tuscan pour of Chianti Classico, including Fontodi Chianti Classico and Molino di Grace Chianti Classico from Panzan, Cecchini’s hilltop hometown.

Just as the ‘whole-cow house’ philosophy ensures no part of the animal goes to waste, leftover ingredients from cooking are repurposed to craft specialty cocktails in a further celebration of sustainability. With its reverence for the animal, commitment to sustainability and culinary excellence, Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become a must-visit destination for foodies and a new benchmark for sophisticated nose-to-tail dining in Asia.

Carna by Dario Cecchini, 39/F, Mondrian Hong Kong, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Photos: Carna by Dario Cecchini Video: Jack Fontanilla

Cabinet Of Curiosities: The Regent’s Qura Bar is a sensory odyssey blending rare spirits, French plates and mesmerising views

Qura Bar, which opened at the Regent Hong Kong Hotel earlier this year, has the power to win anyone over, even if they are stone-cold unromantic types. First of all, it is located in one of the city’s most iconic buildings which offers framed views of dazzling Victoria Harbour; inside a sumptuous construction is packed with vintage elements, wall-to-wall murals and opulently cosy booths. It becomes packed during peak hours, given the buzz and repute it has already garnered, yet offers solitude to anyone who steps within.

Second, Chef Rajiv Chowdhoory, is simply a culinary genius. “Much like ‘The Curator’ who has inspired the creation of Qura Bar, I too am a ‘curator’ of all things culinary,” says Chowdhoory. “I create a range of elegant and flavourful dishes which pair beautifully with our curated selection of rare spirits and exquisite wines to reflect the spirit of global culinary exploration. The cuisine is ‘approachable gastronomy’ with influences from French cuisine.”

Every food lover worth their salt will have heard whispers of Qura’s outstanding French-inspired small plates, beautifully conceived cocktails and toe-tappingly vibey atmosphere. Everything is designed for sharing, a format handy for keeping the conversation flowing.

To start, Niçoise salad, pâté en croûte and baby lamb shoulder ‘Aveyron’ are placed on our table. The Bites menu features lamb kofta kebab, inspired by the freshest seasonal ingredients, spices and flavours from around the world. In addition, elevated comfort food like lobster linguini and black truffle porcini risotto, along with reinvented classics such as beef tartar, are sure to both impress and indulge any cravings.

The ‘Catch of the Day’ – think sole meunière or seared sea bass Grenobloise – is sourced from various international waters. Pan-seared foie gras and marinated bell peppers, as well as varieties of oysters and caviar, are all designed to pair beautifully with precious pours from the beverage menu.

Browsing the vast list reveals an impressive selection of Rare & Vintage Spirits that have been carefully chosen from around the world. Uniting Nations #3 The Essence of Karuizawa, a unique 40-year-old fusion of Japanese and Scottish whisky traditions, and the historic Ferrand Distilled Before 1914, providing a taste of pre-First World War Cognac craft, are noteworthy highlights. In addition to these gems, The Character of Islay Whisky Company’s Fiona Macleod 33-year-old is a masterpiece, a monument to the mystery of the Scottish island with its deep, peat-smoked flavour.

Jose Arechabala Ron Blanco Arecha Extra white rum, a rare collector’s item from the 1960s, embodies the golden era of Cuban rum-making. Rum from Barbados has a long history, which is encapsulated in the 16-year-old single-blended Foursquare Shibboleth. Finally, Collector Gin #001, a collaboration with Hong Kong’s N.I.P Gin, is a testament to global exploration. These rare spirits are not just beverages but stories captured in bottles, brought from the farthest corners of the world to the heart of Hong Kong.

“Everything has to come with a little bit of soul, a little bit of history, and it truly is what we want to share – not just the quality of the product, but the story that comes with it,” says Xavier Schaeffer, Qura’s Director of Operations.

Bar Manager Gennaro Pucci creates a cocktail experience that reflects the search for rare and vintage spirits. He says: “All drinks, whether traditional or inventive, narrate a tale of world exploration.”

Once recovered from an alcoholic kick, take in Qura’s sensual dark yet playful Art-Deco surroundings, designed by Bar Studio. Each area of the interlinked drawing room, bar, dining lounge and cigar room is adorned with bursts of colour, texture and intriguing objets d’art – from a whimsical emerald-green parrot lamp to quirky table lamps with monkeys holding parasols and gilded monkey pirate sconces. Large vintage photos from the days of the original Regent hotel recall the rich heritage of this exclusive venue. Qura Bar is one of the most atmospheric arrivals to have graced Hong Kong in a long time.

Photos: Qura Bar Video: Jack Fontanilla

Ankoma Chameleon: Intimate bistro meets refined izakaya at the fine-dining counter manned by local chef Frankie Wong

Exceptional chefs are like chameleons. They may be acknowledged for their mastery of a certain dish or their own cooking style, but what really distinguishes them from their contemporaries is their capacity to transfer and modify their refined method from one culinary endeavour to the next. A range of vast and varied experiences is also often necessary, as well as humility, patience and innate talent. Such is the case for Hong Kong’s very own culinary rising star, Chef Frankie Wong, who is making a breakthrough performance via Ankôma.

“My inspiration comes from all channels – sometimes it is through suppliers explaining ingredients, or me casually browsing on Instagram, and sometimes in my dreams!” laughs Wong of his French-Japanese cuisine. “Each creation goes through much trial and error and many versions.”

A juxtaposition if ever there was one, the fact that fine-dining haven Ankôma is located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui’s bustle has amplified just how versatile Wong is and has pronounced the range in his unrestrained perspective. Unlike the busy scenes on the streets below, the fifth-floor restaurant’s eight-seat marble counter, elegantly set with linen napkins, handsome wine glasses and no-fuss flatware, looks into a modern kitchen of the latest chef’s toys and gadgets. The scene is complemented by Wong’s fabulous talent and a menu focusing on local ingredients.

“Fine dining usually has an image of being very proper, not very commonly accessible and can be quite intimidating for some guests,” says the chef. “In Ankôma, guests can enjoy fine-dining-quality dishes but in a casual environment, like a bistro or izakaya. For those who frequent fine-dining restaurants, it can be a change of scene, a different and refreshing experience from what they are used to.”

Each plate is easy on the eye and tasty on the palate. As Wong personally explains each dish – an essential component of the Ankôma experience – diners will discover that the restraint and simplicity which appear to be the defining characteristics of his cuisine may be more colourful and complex than they first thought.

Our tasting parade begins with zuwaigani, a snow crab tartlet with sherry vinegar sheet and battera kombu floss. The unagi course showcases smoked eel with foie-gras mousse on brioche French toast, while saba, a fatty mackerel cured with apple cider vinegar, kombu and mirin, is complemented by a zesty green apple and jellyfish salad, finished with a kick of wasabi emulsion.

The seasonal hokkigai, a lightly torched surf clam with homemade fish cake, is accompanied by ratatouille consommé, chipolata sausage and coriander. The scallop dish consisting of a buttery pan-fried Hokkaido scallop paired with a cool French bean purée, eggplant purée and vadouvan sauce is the chef’s French take on Indian masala.

The standout dish comes in the form of a roasted piece of the most tender three yellow chicken. Inspired by his Hong Kong upbringing, the local poultry is artistically served with bannonegi (scallion), ikura (salmon roe), creamy vin jaune (yellow wine) sauce and Hokkaido Nanatsuboshi rice.

Other revelations of this tasting menu include how well angel hair pasta pairs with wakame, shiso blossoms and caviar when it has been flavoured with white truffle paste. The next dish presents butter-aged lobster tails cooked over lava stones and topped with daikon oden (simmered radish stew), handmade chilli oil and a sauce of sakura-ebi (shrimp) and kabocha (winter squash).

The dessert of pistachio almond crunch, ganache, mochi and ice cream, as well as offerings of seasonal fruit, make the perfect ending to this sumptuous dinner.

Ankôma’s tasteful contemporary French-Japanese approach proves that striking a balance between revolutionising traditional cuisine and creating an inviting restaurant is a worthwhile pursuit. A collaboration among generations helps heaps, but it’s a collective passion for serving a unique, delicious experience that lights the match.

Ankoma, 5/F, Kam Lung Commercial Centre, 2 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Ankoma Video: Jack Fontanilla

Don Appétit: Savouring the flavours of celebrated chef Donovan Cooke’s life’s work

In the realm of gastronomy, there are chefs, and then there are culinary storytellers – those who, through their craft, weave together the flavours of their past, their journeys and their passion. Veteran chef Donovan Cooke, the creative genius behind the culinary magic at his new venture, Causeway Bay-based Donovan, is undoubtedly one such storyteller. His modern European menu has quickly captured the attention of the city’s foodies, making it a must-go-to restaurant for anybody looking for great food in the bustling heart of Hong Kong.

“The inspiration for the restaurant is basically being here in Hong Kong. I’m in the middle of the world with some of the best ingredients from around the world, and I have an opportunity to use and showcase the best of the ingredients following the seasons – and not so much following the seasons,” the chef laughs as he explains his ethos. “However, we are trying to maintain sustainability, and at the same time evolve classical combinations – which I’ve been doing for 40 years – in a more modern way.”

The roving Briton has been an instrumental figurehead in the fine- dining scene of wherever he has landed. At a young age, he was seasoned and nurtured in traditional French cuisine by the legendary, then-two-Michelin-starred Marco Pierre White at Harveys in London.

Embarking on his curious global journey, he headed first to France and then Australia, where his footprint was recognised by multiple accolades. Melbourne newspaper The Age’s Good Food Guide named him Chef of the Year in 2003 and 2004. He also made appearances on the reality TV show MasterChef Australia and co-authored the award-winning cookbook, Marriages. His dedication to innovation and new culinary excellence then won the hearts of local socialites and celebrities during a six-year stint at the helm of Derby Restaurant and Bar at the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

With each step, he absorbed new techniques, flavours and inspirations, enriching his culinary palate and ultimately bringing him to a Hong Kong homecoming late last year. His self-titled restaurant artfully combines his own heritage with a global perspective – a testament to his eclectic journey, offering diners an experience that transcends borders.

“I want to showcase a vast array of dishes here in my new restaurant, and the best way to do that is to do a Japanese-style tasting menu,” he says. “It’s a journey of eight to 10-12 courses, starting with refreshing light and then moving on to a richer main course. In the past, when I did à la carte, people just go for the things that they’re safe or that they know, so I decided to do it omakase-style because I want people to taste lots of different things that they normally wouldn’t order.”

The dinner-tasting menu at the time of our review kicks off with an artistic ensemble of appetisers such as truffle macaron; parmesan tart with onions and flowers; chicken liver parfait, apple and prune; and the house signature soy-sauce brioche. These are followed by seared tuna belly decorated with spiced tartare, celeriac, truffle dashi and shiso; and the heady combination of the spiced roasted blue lobster with foie gras, fig, port wine, chocolate and coffee.

One of his standout dishes is smoked olive oil confit salmon, seasoned with leek, razor clam, bone broth, salmon roe and chive oil. It’s a culinary masterpiece that captures the essence of Chef Donovan on a plate.

A meat lover’s dream comes in the form of Pyrenees milk-fed baby lamb with girolles, gnocchi and thyme jus, and the cooked to a mouth-watering medium-rare, pepper-crusted wagyu 9+ sirloin atop onions, bone marrow and Bordelaise sauce.

Desserts of spiced roasted pineapple with pain d’épices ice cream and tonka bean panna cotta with rhubarb, honeycomb and Stone’s ginger wine jelly form a perfect palate cleanser to this savoury culinary adventure.

Amid the elegant ambience and the warm embrace of European hospitality, Donovan is a testament to the power of roots, the influence of loved ones and the fusion of global experiences into tantalising dishes that have earned the well-travelled chef countless plaudits for his unparalleled contributions to gastronomy.

Donovan, 16/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Photos: DONOVAN Video: Jack Fontanilla

Fabric of Life: Dressing the table in crisp fine linen is the first step to refined dining

The table is the heart of the home, the place where families share the day-to-day, where big decisions and announcements are made, and where those most important to us gather for meals and celebrations. The tablecloth is vital in creating an elegant and welcoming atmosphere for dining together.

Whether in homes, hotels or smart restaurants, a tablecloth is the basis for a beautifully laid spread. While protecting the tabletop from spills, this extra layer of tactile pleasure also significantly reduces the clink of cutlery. At home, bespoke tablecloths are a great addition to any interior, enhancing the decorative theme of the dining space.

Celebrated in British dining culture, a crisp white linen tablecloth is also a part of the Hong Kong fine-dining and entertaining tradition due to our shared past. Today’s luxury table-linen purveyors offer countless choices of colour, pattern and material to suit any table and its surroundings.

Rivolta Carmignani

Historic brand Rivolta Carmignani (rivoltacarmignani.com), coveted for its bed linens and tablecloths for 150 years, employs a fully integrated, all-Italian manufacturing process that begins with the selection of precious yarns. The production combines ancient crafts like cutting, hemming and hand embroidery with the latest generation looms, ensuring durable, high-quality tablecloths. The skilled artisans of the atelier also offer a customisation service to make one’s choice of table dressing unique.

Rivolta Carmignani’s collections encompass a variety of weaves. Refined jacquard technology achieves the patterns of the Giardino Italiano line, as well as Boboli, a line of two contrasting solid colours in jacquard linen. Decoro embraces pure linen with clever three-dimensional effects, while Victorian delves into the family company’s archives for its decorative damask motif.

Precious pure cotton yarns (600 threads per square inch) create sophisticated sateen with a soft and silky hand. The Sateen Gold collection offers golden piping on crisp, sheen- like white cotton. Prices for linen tablecloths start at about HK$3,000.

La DoubleJ

The Italian-made fashion and tableware of former US journalist J.J. Martin brings vibrant joie de vivre to the tabletop. Launched in 2015, La DoubleJ (ladoublej.com) crafts linen tablecloths rooted in maximalist prints and the mood- boosting powers of chakra-conscious colours. An inspiring authority on energy elevation and the ebullient Italian way of life, the brand’s linens are made on the shores of Lake Como by local artisans, thus limiting their carbon footprint and boosting their feel-good vibe.

The Palms motif – in which bundles of palms in varying shades of green come together against a pale blue background – plays out across 100% Italian linen for a readymade centrepiece. Due to the handmade nature of the fabric, this medium-sized tablecloth features some small but charming irregularities, such as knots in the yarn.

White Turning Tulip and Wildbird Blu prints bring flora and fauna to the table respectively, while it would be hard to find a more intense colour-popping pattern than Colombo Grande. Mix and match La DoubleJ’s brilliant prints through napkins, runners and crockery for a veritable garden of delight. Tablecloths range from HK$2,500 to $4,000 in price.

Maison Margaux

Sourcing the world for unusual designs and pieces, Maison Margaux (maisonmargauxltd. com) is a luxury British homeware store selling everything for home entertaining – beautiful tablecloths, cutlery, crockery, glassware and bespoke accessories. Travelling from Portugal to Provence, and Italy to Istanbul, with inspirational visits to the English countryside and the Scottish Highlands, their collections conjure varying moods and expressions of nature. Everything is hand-selected by the team in a true labour of love.

Top of the line is the stunning hand- embroidered Noël Suzani tablecloth. Each intricate stitch is a testament to the craftsmanship behind this extraordinary collection, whose rich hues and tactile presence are a standout on every special occasion, not just Christmas.

From the pastel Turquoise Amelia in cotton, which perfectly captures the blush of spring, to the linen Burgundy Stripe in a Port- coloured pattern that nods to autumn warmth, there is a Maison Margaux tablecloth for every season. They also have collections suitable for weddings and formal events that may be rented rather than purchased. Prices (to buy) start from HK$1,300.

Summerill & Bishop

Founded in 1994 by June Summerill and Bernadette Bishop, two friends who shared an effortless sense of style, the Summerill & Bishop (summerillbishop.com) tablescape has a warm and slightly rustic vibe, but with a distinctly modern sensibility. Flowers and leaves feature on table linens that work both in the dining room and on the terrace, while abstract geometric patterns or stripes will complement any interior. Pieces are priced from HK$3,000 to HK$7,000.

Now operating two shops in London, S&B believes that if people take the time to lay the table and beautifully present a meal, they will enjoy it all the more and create a lasting memory for those who share it with them. To this end, the store offers a personalisation service on their Word, Cornice and Full Field table linens as well as some of their handmade porcelain bowls. Ideal as a gift or a personal keepsake of a memorable occasion, the Word collection enables a bold word, name or initials to be emblazoned on top-quality white linen.

In addition, a line of fine Italian linen tablecloths in a choice of classic and contemporary designs is hand-painted and printed by hand in a traditional stamperia. The most discerning customers, meanwhile, can dip into S&B’s limited-edition and made- to-order Couture collection which comprises the ivory-coloured Lyon lace tablecloth priced at HK$20,000 or three exquisite sequined designs at HK$53,000 each.