Jaquet Droz unveils stunningly intricate new Novelties 2019 timepieces

As if the stunning designs launched for Chinese New Year weren’t enough, luxury watchmaker Jaquet Droz has revealed another slew of beautifully crafted timepieces to tempt any haute horology enthusiast. From painstakingly-handcrafted enamel designs to the latest member of its iconic automaton line, here are three eye-poppingly gorgeous watches to whet your collector’s appetite.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time

Targeting the well-heeled jetsetter, the newest iteration of its popular Grande Seconde Dual Time sees its much-loved figure-eight dual-dial design updated to feature an azimuthal map of the world as viewed from the North Pole – a truly traveller-appropriate touch – in its lower home time display. Another new touch here is the 24-hour time indicator. Now split into two distinct 12-hour time segments, one for the daytime and one for the night, the dual shades allow for a more intuitive and fluid reading of the time. Meanwhile, the local time display inhabits the upper half of the figure-eight fascia. Available with a steel or rose gold case, lucky buyers can opt for four different dials made from opaline or Grand Feu enamel.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute “Smalta Clara Hummingbird”

Jaquet Droz’s newest plique-à-jour enamel creation comes in the form of its Petite Heure Minute “Smalta Clara Hummingbird”. This ancient and painstaking enamelling technique allows craftspeople to create a single composition from multiple pieces of enamel melded together with golden thread, as opposed to the more common method of crafting from one sole piece. The effect of this more flexible design is wholly evident in this iridescent timepiece’s fascia. The elegantly minimalist off-centre dial is embraced lovingly by a multi-hued, mosiac-ed hummingbird, whose effect is only heightened by the 100 diamonds set on its white gold case. Just eight pieces of each version – pink-light blue or green-turquoise – will ever be made.

Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton

Perhaps the most exciting and evocative new design from the haute horology house, though, is the Magic Lotus Automaton. Atop its generous 43mm fascia lies the crown jewel of this attention-grabbing creation, a tranquil lotus pond that is wholly automated thanks to Jaquet Droz’s masterful mechanic engineering. Here, four mother-of-pearl lotus flowers each represent an individual season, or, more prosaically, the stages of life, from seedling to bud to blossom.

Two complementing automaton movements power give this timepiece an entrancing aura. First, there’s a koi fish ‘swimming’ playfully beneath the lotuses, which draws attention to the second movement of a mother-of-pearl-petalled lotus whose heart transforms with a series of precious stones of blue, red and yellow hues. As befitting a marque renowned for its finest artisanal craftsmanship, the entire automation runs for a staggering four minutes, and features a movement that contains over 500 components and four patents pending. Limited to a 28-piece release, this is a guaranteed collectors’ item in the making.

Untamable Spirit: Four amazing animal-themed watches for the wildlife lover

The mysterious allure of the untamable animals that populate our globe have long held a certain fascination for humanity, with everyone from jewellers and fashion maisons to artists and scientists all equally in thrall. And the world of haute horology is no different. Indeed many renowned watchmakers have all dedicated a segment of their oeuvre solely to animal-themed watches. From Year of the Pig-inspired creations to wild cat-dominated designs are some of the latest standouts that caught our eye.

Jaquet Droz – Petite Heure Minute Pig

Jaquet Droz is introducing an element of handcraftsmanship with its Petite Heure Minute Pig a true homage to the brand’s renowned skill at the ‘Art of Miniature Painting’. Housed in an attractive red gold case, the star of the show here is undoubtedly a hand-engraved and hand-patinated pig applique. Limited to a release of just 28 pieces, this collector’s-item-in-the-making seems the perfect wrist-sized memento of the Year of the Pig.

Blancpain – Traditional Chinese Calendar

Another timepiece celebrating the Lunar New Year’s new zodiac sign is Blancpain in the form of its Traditional Chinese Calendar. Building on its reputation for producing precision engineered perpetual calendar movements, this newest limited-edition watch features a lunisolar calendar inspired by the classical Chinese timekeeping tradition, alongside a more standard Gregorian date display. With the two time-division systems wholly unalike, it took the marque five years of research to develop a movement capable of measuring both calendars – a true haute horological feat that solidifies its position in our round-up of must-have animal-themed watches.

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Wild Panda

Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has also sought inspiration from the pantheon of Chinese wildlife for its Les Cabinotiers Wild Panda. Part of the maison’s exclusive one-off “Mécaniques Sauvages” range, in this instance, the eponymous panda and bamboo forest surround it have been carefully handcrafted using long-lauded technique of wood marquetry. With more than 300 individually hand-cut wood veneers of various shapes making up its vibrant fascia, its design is a true ode to the artisanal arts.

Hermès – Arceau Awooooo

Another must-have in our list of animal-themed watches is the latest iteration of Hermès’ iconic Arceau watch – the Arceau Awooooo. As its name suggests, the dominant animal motif here is the majestic white wolf that encompasses the majority of its 41mm fascia. Set under a night sky punctuated with a crescent moon and twinkling stars, the entire dial is the product of an intricate process of meticulous enamel work, polishing, painting and firing. Fitted with a white gold case and matte graphite alligator leather straps, just eight pieces will ever be made.

Introducing: Four stunning Chinese New Year watches by Jaquet Droz

With the Lunar New Year celebrations less than a fortnight away, an air of festive anticipation can already be felt throughout Hong Kong. In a bid to amp up the atmosphere even further, renowned Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz has introduced four stunning limited-edition Chinese New Year watches to mark this auspicious occasion and usher in the Year of the Pig in true style.

Part of its annual series of Chinese Zodiac-inspired haute horological models, Jaquet Droz pays tribute to the incoming Pig sign with its signature dedication to handcraftsmanship. The first pair of new designs – the Petite Heure Minute Pig – are encased in red gold, with a ladies’ 35mm version boasting a diamond-set bezel and a larger unisex 39mm interpretation with no diamonds. A tribute to the art of miniature painting, both dials featuring a hand-painted Pig standing calmly amidst an abundance of wheat crops. Limited to just 28 pieces per design, its gold caseback is engraved with a similarly fetching scene.

For the second pair of limited-edition Chinese New Year watches, Jaquet Droz has opted for the more rugged Boar as its central design conceit. Available in a red gold (28 pieces) or a rarer white gold (8 pieces) case-engraving combination, both interpretations of the Petite Heure Minute Relief Pig boast an eye-catching black onyx dial atop which the Boar stands triumphant. The product of painstakingly beautiful engraving techniques, here the porcine hero stands firm before eight mighty oak trees – auspicious symbols of power and longevity – as if to salute the incoming lunar year. On the caseback lies another surprise, a relief engraving of a boar striding a midnight sky (courtesy of an onyx applique on its base), with the oscillating movement visible overhead.

With these latest Pig-inspired Chinese New Year watches, Jaquet Droz once again proves that its reputation for merging top-class watchmaking with beautiful craftsmanship is more than well deserved. Available only in very limited releases, each individual design is a more-than-fitting addition to the collection of any true haute horology enthusiast.

Closing Time: We bid farewell to some of 2018’s most wonderful watches

From extraordinary extraterrestrial-oriented timepieces to the very nattiest nautical designs, 2018 has been quite a year in the world of high-end horology. With the nights rolling in and with many of us gradually growing befuddled at the thought of the festivities to come, what better than to take a timely trot through the final push of wonderful watches that made the Year of the Dog quite so great?

2018's final push of wonderful watches — *2018’s final push of wonderful watches*

With the worlds of marine exploration and fine watchmaking sharing a long and intertwined history, it’s perhaps unsurprising that the tail-end of 2018 saw several renowned chronograph creators once again opt for a maritime motif. Taking point in this timepiece tsunami, of course, was Omega with its updated and upsized (42mm) Seamaster Diver 300M seen as glad tidings for all.

Omega's Seamaster Diver 300M — *Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M*

Coming with a Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement – one fashioned entirely from non-ferrous materials in a bid to insulate its precision mechanism from any adverse magnetic influences – as standard, it also features an enhanced helium escape valve design, ensuring that it will remain fully waterproof up to 50m down even should the valve open accidentally.

*Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown by Breitling*

Holding steady on our oceanic overview, the next maritime masterpiece came courtesy of never-less-than-breathtaking Breitling, with the all-new Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown marking the marque’s first collaboration with Outerknown, the California-based sustainable outerwear manufacturer. In addition to its durable, eco-friendly straps, this unashamedly athletic timepiece features a striking DLC-coated black steel case housing a Breitling Calibre 13 mechanical movement. A deep blue dial, complete with Super-Luminova-coated hour and minute hands and a shock-resistant uni-directional bezel, round out its distinctive devil-may-care dive-watch design.

Tag Heuer's Aquaracer Carbon — *Tag Heuer’s Aquaracer Carbon*

Never one to be outdone, Tag Heuer’s own oceanic offering is equal parts H2O and 007, with its superspy stylings targetted more at a leisure-minded lagoon liquid luncher than a five-fathoms-down hardy ocean-bed explorer. Despite its aesthetic aspect, the watch – the Aquaracer Carbon – is still guaranteed to be water-resistant to a depth of 300m. With its black PVD-covered titanium case, carbon fibre bezel, fetching ‘carbon effect’ fascia and black textile straps, this is a watch to flaunt rather than to float about with.

In a timely reminder that all things maritime are not a solely male preserve, Chopard, meanwhile, fetchingly fused the very finest attributes of high-end jewellery and haute horology to fashion the limited-edition Happy Fish. With its delightfully dippy designation, its Happy Diamonds twirl atop an elegant deep blue mother-of-pearl dial, bedecked with a coruscating coral fish motif, making this a very savourable slice of ladylike luxury.

Patek Philippe's Twenty~4 Automatic — *Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 Automatic*

Another traditionally macho marque looking to pique the interest of the burgeoning number of women watch collectors is Patek Philippe, with the latest expression of its iconic Twenty~4 model – the all-new Twenty~4 Automatic – said to be the first-ever diamond-set steel model manufactured with the madame in mind. In another first, this classic 36mm timepiece comes fitted with a self-winding movement, a sweeping second hand and a dominant date aperture at 6 o’clock. With a staggering 208 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds gracing its bezel and lugs, this is one clear statement accessory.

*Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days by IWC*

For the more manly collectors on the lookout for a classic design, the latest iteration of IWC’s Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days surely merits serious consideration. For this decidedly regal revamp, the signature Portofino look has been refreshed with a slate grey fascia, which pairs compellingly with the brand’s debuting grey-suede straps. Undoubtedly the biggest plus though is its 59210 calibre movement, which twinkles enticingly beneath the transparent sapphire crystal caseback even as it delivers pin-point precision for up to eight days.

*Parrot Minute Repeater pocket watch by Jaquet Droz*

For a truly vintage look, though, discerning wanters of wonderful watches should check out Jaquet Droz’s new Parrot Minute Repeater. Exquisitely crafted in commemoration of the watchmaker’s 280th anniversary, this one-of-a-kind adornment boasts the brand’s signature Bird Repeater automaton in the form of gloriously-bejewelled macaws perched on its cover, both of which chirp and chime while winding. Blending time-honoured horological artisanship, including enamel inlaying and exquisite gemwork, with cutting-edge precision engineering, this peerless package has a US$1 million price tag – irresistible, though, if you want to end the year in true style.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

The Signing Machine by Jaquet Droz: Give your signature a unique flourish

In celebration of a staggering 280 years of precision watch making, Jaquet Droz unveiled a veritable treasure trove of horological delights at Baselworld earlier this year. Among the beautifully designed timepieces and unique designs, one particular creation stood out – the Signing Machine.

The brand’s founder, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, was a renowned maker of automatons, so much so that his masterpieces, The Writer, The Musician and The Draughtsman, are among the highlights on display at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History.

Centuries later, The Signing Machine stands as the ultimate tribute to this storied legacy. With its concept first unveiled to the world in 2014, it has taken four years of intensive labour and research to bring it to fruition.

A mechanical work of wonder, The Signing Machine is a beautifully designed, hand-wound device whose power reserve allows two full signatures to be drawn. In total 585 parts work in perfect unison to create these autographs, and only a specially-made Jaquet Droz pen is compatible with the gadget.

Each device is unique, holding only the signature of its owner and unlockable by a personal 4-digit pin. Almost every aspect of its appearance can be further customised, and with a price tag of HK$2.982 million, this may just be the ultimate custom-made collectible.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Binge Watch: Seven standouts from Macau’s Masters of Time exhibition

Duty-free retailer DFS opened its ninth Masters of Time luxury watch exhibition in Macau in extravagant fashion. There were interactive pop-ups, whisky and caviar tastings, and live performances by Hong Kong songstress Jade Kwan and violin DJ Olivia Dawn.

But even without the flash and panache, it’s clear that DFS has its ear to the ground, following the latest haute horlogerie trends in a bid to give high-end watch collectors exactly what they’re looking for.

Over 450 pieces from 30 luxury brands were assembled for this year’s showcase, which runs until 28 February at T Galleria by DFS inside the Shoppes at Four Seasons.

Christophe Chaix, Senior Vice President of Global Merchandising at DFS, says there is no real equivalent to Masters of Time. “Of course there are trade shows like Baselworld and SIHH, but there is no other exhibition like this in the world dedicated to the end consumer,” Chaix says.

His confidence is not misplaced. In just nine years, the annual exhibition has become one of Asia’s premier watch events, drawing collectors from China, Singapore, Australia and beyond.

In that time, discerning women collectors have become one of the industry’s fastest-growing segments. No longer satisfied with simple watches in frilly decorative packaging, the fairer sex is now demanding mechanical complications on par with their male counterparts. And Masters of Time has risen to the challenge.

One of the best models from its selection of women’s watches is Jaquet Droz’s Lady 8 Flower, a perfect blend of beauty and complexity. Fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, the design’s centrepiece is a lotus perched atop a blue sapphire-studded bezel. A press of the button opens its petals to reveal a faceted diamond briolette rotating on its axis.

Another women’s watch that may appeal to collectors is Breguet’s individually numbered and signed Tradition 7038, the first model for ladies in its Tradition collection. Although slightly on the large side at 37mm, it owes its unmistakable femininity to a diamond-set bezel, mother-of- pearl dial and white alligator leather strap.

While complex timepieces for ladies are still relatively rare, Masters of Time is a horological treasure trove for the discerning male collector.

Classic craftsmanship never goes out of style, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing to its strengths with the Master Gyrotourbillon 1. Boasting a dual-axis tourbillon movement, this elegant timepiece also shows the date and includes a perpetual calendar and an equation of time complication. The dial’s intricate mother-of-pearl lacework and aventurine stone marquetry evoke images of a clear night sky.

Heritage watches also feature prominently at Masters of Time this year, such as Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. Paying tribute to the brand’s nautical history, the handcrafted marquetry on its pine oak dial imitates a ship’s deck, while the arching minute hand resembles a ship’s boom. Add to that a visible flying tourbillon and this 18-piece model is a guaranteed conversation starter.

Another homage timepiece is Blancpain’s limited-edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The original Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 as the world’s first automatic diving watch, and fortunately, the current model retains that vintage vibe while still meeting modern divers’ needs with its uni-rotational bezel and water tightness indicator.

As far as contemporary timepieces go, sports watches are all the rage. In particular, partnerships between luxury car manufacturers and horology houses have spawned some interesting timepieces. Several are on show at Masters of Time, including Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Aventador S (featured in Gafencu’s November issue) and Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph.

The true feather in DFS’ cap, though, is the special edition Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45mm from Tag Heuer. This one-of-a-kind timepiece was created especially for Masters of Time, with its hands, hour markers and strap all outfitted in the luxury retailer’s signature red.

Sadly, this watch is no longer on the market, having been snapped up by an eager collector before the exhibition even began.

With so many watches on display, it’s hard to characterise Masters of Time in a singular way. Suffice it to say, a trip to the exhibition is an illuminating lesson in the sheer diversity that exists in the world of modern watchmaking.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: DFS

Hammer Time: One-off watches hit HK before Only Watch Charity Auction

Unique luxury timepieces were displayed in Hong Kong before heading to the Only Watch Charity Auction. Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad, dissects eight of the best ones.

Only Watch has become a much anticipated fixture of the high watchmaking scene. Taking place every two years, 2017 plays host to the seventh edition since Luc Pettavino called this auction to life in support of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM), which battles the rare Duchenne strain of the disease. Pettavino’s son, Paul, who died from the condition last year at the age of 21, inspired the former to take up the charitable cause.

Collectors will find rarities here that can be had nowhere else and, better yet, all proceeds go toward research for this neuromuscular disease. Over the course of six auctions in 12 years, Pettavino has raised more than HK$235 million for the cause. For brands big and small alike, the publicity that comes along with the world tour preceding the auction makes it worth every cent to donate a specially-made, one-off watch.

Immediately following the world tour exhibiting the pieces, which hits Hong Kong 23-24 October, the auction will take place on 11 November in Geneva under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. Here are eight highlights from the auction suiting a cross-section of tastes – each watch unique in its own right.

Patek Philippe’s Reference 5208T-010 is an obvious investor’s choice. With its chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar and minute repeater, it’s an extremely collectable watch that’s likely to increase in value over the years – especially as it has a titanium case, a metal rarely used at Patek Philippe.

With a high estimate of more than HK$8 million, this is the auction’s top lot, and it comes with a complimentary visit to the workshops plus a private lunch with Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern.

If you’re looking for artistic merit, the titanium-encased Armin Strom Manual Hunt Slonem Edition for Only Watch is a perfect fusion of art and mechanical excellence. New York artist Hunt Slonem – best known for his Neo-Expressionist practice – has decorated the watch front with references to his critically-acclaimed series of rabbit paintings using a transfer process.

In addition to this watch, the winning bidder will receive a hand-signed original artwork from the artist entitled Rex – a 46cm by 31cm oil painting created using metal pigmented paint. High estimates surpass HK$150,600.

The minimalist, however, would be drawn to H. Moser & Cie’s Venturer Concept Only Watch – the ideal acquisition for lovers of simple yet striking pieces (high estimate: HK$240,200).

The finely finished, manually wound movement features a funky red balance bridge and an unusual red fumé dial – subtle references to the flag of Monaco, the birthplace of this auction and the home of AMM.

Offering a taste of the rare and unique is Fabergé’s Visionnaire Chronograph, presented in a sporty black and yellow outfit called “If life gives you lemons” (DLC-treated titanium).

Expected to sell for up to HK$383,000, this is a chronograph like no other. It’s able to provide both time and chronograph measurements using only hands that extend from the centre of the dial thanks to an innovative automatic movement by Agenhor.

Sure to put a smile on your face, the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatiente Only Watch Edition (high estimate: HK$448,200) incorporates the whimsy of a novel complication in the “impatient” countdown hour, but does so in masculine grey titanium. The latter aspect is surprising, considering that the French powerhouse rarely utilises the high-tech metal to house its timepieces.

The Laurent Ferrier x Urwerk Arpal One LF-UR1 (high estimate: HK$570,450) offers an opportunity to own a unique watch borne out of a collaboration between two brands with styles on opposite ends of the spectrum. This timepiece doubles the fun with its wandering hours, sand-blasted satellites and exclusive polished alloy called ARPAL+ (specifically developed for this unique watch), making it a visceral feast for the senses.

For lovers of rare semi-precious stones, Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Off-Centered Cuprite could be just the ticket with its minimalist dial crafted in ultra-rare cuprite, an oxide mineral with a vibrant red hue that gives away its origin as a minor ore of copper.

It is combined with red gold hands and subdial outlines matching the precious metal case for an overall graceful and unique appearance. In contrast, the watch’s high-tech mechanical movement with silicon balance spring can be viewed from the back. Its high estimate comes in at HK$330,600.

Our last timepiece is a treat for fashionistas everywhere: the Chanel J12-XS (high estimate: HK$366,700). Crafted in white gold, black ceramic and onyx with baguette-cut diamonds and embroidered calfskin, it is effortlessly chic. As the cherry on top, the winning bidder will be granted passage to Chanel’s ready-to-wear fashion show in March 2018.

Haven’t found your dream watch yet? Discover all 50 timepieces at www.onlywatch.com. Each and every piece was either specifically made for this auction, or is a one-off version of an iconic model.

Text: Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad

The Only Watch Charity Auction will be held on Saturday, 11 November at 2:30pm (Geneva time).

Paradise Regained: Jaquet Droz’s new watch creates a mini Garden of Eden

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Known for its elaborate decorative watches, Jaquet Droz has once again stunned the world of horology with its latest model, The Tropical Bird Repeater watch.

Inspired by Gauguin’s Post-Impressionist paintings, the watch depicts, on its dial, an exotic landscape, a Garden of Eden-like terrain, with each detail of flora and fauna depicted painstakingly.

At the heart of this Garden of Eden, amidst a realistic waterfall, is a hummingbird hand-carved and hand-engraved with meticulous craftsmanship by the maison’s top artists. A one-of-a-kind animation in watch-making history, its wings beat up to forty times a second, making it a piece of moving art. All other details, including a peacock, whose plumes open and close, a toucan that emerges at 3 o’clock to open its beak, a flight of dragonflies, whose wings glow in the dark, are equally jaw-dropping.

The timepiece is, however, not just a great looker; it’s high on performance as well. With features like the minute repeater powered by Jaquet Droz RMA89 movement and a power reserve of 60 hours with an oscillating frequency of 3 Hz, the watch is a collectible on all counts.

Limited to just eight pieces, this is one paradise a true connoisseur can’t afford to lose!

From dazzling diamonds to romantic rubies, bejewelled timepieces are true horological gold

Charles Blanc, the renowned 19th century French art critic, once said: “The diamond and other precious stones are focuses of light, and essences of colour which seem expressly created to ornament on a small scale the human body with all the splendours which adorn the universe on a large scale.” This, it would seem, is a sentiment shared by Haute Horologists the world over, at least if the vast array of fine watches adorned with jewels and precious stones are anything to go by.

Literally translated from the French, Haute Horlogerie means “the high art of watchmaking.” Since 2005, however, when the “Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie” was founded, the term has solely referred to the 28 members of that particular horological foundation, with them collectively representing the world’s most prestigious luxury watchmakers.

Indeed in today’s modern age of virtual merchandise and 3D-printables, it is comforting to see that Haute Horlogerie remains a true art form. With no shortcuts, neither time nor expense is spared when crafting the finest possible timepieces, in both aesthetic and functional terms. Here the use of magnificent jewels to adorn a timepiece is seen as the truest expression of a watchmaker’s passion – the exquisite beauty that is the perfect fusion of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie – “the art of fine jewellery.”

One such watchmaker is Rolex, a marque long synonymous with luxury timepieces fit for the world’s most stylish individuals. Making its debut at this year’s Baselworld, the “Pearlmaster 39” is a perfect example of the glorious synergy between Haute Horlogerie and Joaillerie. A new version of the Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster, the Pearlmaster 39, is a lady’s watch and one for those that are certain that diamonds are, indeed, a girl’s best friend. Crafted in 18 carat everose gold, this 39 mm watch comes adorned with no less than 36 rare brilliant-cut diamonds, making it truly a dazzling piece to behold. While the exterior of the watch is steeped in splendour, the functionality of the piece itself remains a reflection of Rolex’s dedication to innovation and technology.

In total, some 14 new patents were required to make this watch possible.

The adoption of such cutting-edge technology has resulted in increased precision, a greater power reserve, enhanced shock and magnetic resistance, and improved reliability. The Pearlmaster is in fact manufactured in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, one that houses the self-winding calibre 3235 with its impressive 70 hours of power reserve. It is also 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring watch. The outside of the case is decorated with 31 rubies, adding a further touch of flair to an already spectacular timepiece. With Christmas just around the corner, if a certain lady has a fondness for jewels, this is the perfect gift.

Another watch that happily pays homage to pressurised carbon in its most iconic form is the Chopard Happy Diamonds watch. A preeminent part of the Chopard collection, the idea for Happy Diamonds came when Ronald Kurowski, Chopard’s lead designer, took a walk in the Black Forest. There he espied a stunning sunlight-bathed waterfall, a vision he sought to recreate through his chosen profession. This ladies’ watch is available in a round or cushion-shaped dial with its 18-carat gold case perfectly framed in black.

The time display, meanwhile, is fetchingly set in an inner dial, while the prong-set diamonds playfully dance around the outer dial, all set against a white mother-of-pearl background. With more jewels than any previous incarnation – 15 in total, in a variety of sizes – this particular timepiece is never less than magnificently dazzling. A limited edition of just 150, the watch comes with an elegant black brushed canvas strap as standard.

Another member of the exclusive foundation is, of course, the ever-eminent Piaget. Three years in the making, the company’s Altiplano 900D bears the distinction of being the thinnest luxury watch on the market, coming in at a mere 3.65 mm. Along with this ultra-thin build comes a host of other design firsts, making the watch as unique as it is prestigious. In order to achieve its trademark slender look, the case and movement of this watch are functionally one. The result is a triumph of both Haute Horlogerie and Joaillerie, with the watch finely decorated with brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. In the case of the 1200D model in white gold, there are 259 brilliant-cut diamonds while the 1270D is decorated with 71 baguette-cut and 561 brilliant-cut diamonds. If diamonds really are forever, this timepiece is set for a very long and sparkling lifespan.

Yet another famous Swiss maison and purveyor of true horological beauty is Jaquet Droz. As a celebration of nearly three centuries of historic expertise, the marque’s Petite Heure Minute Thousand Year Lights is nigh on perfect. As its name suggests, this timepiece is all about radiance, something it delivers in a truly spectacular fashion thanks to the hand-painted, lacquered, mother-of-pearl floral decoration that lavishly adorns its dial. A perfect complement to this comes with the option of featuring a further ring of diamonds bordering the dial and case. Unmistakably feminine and exquisitely refined, the floral tableaux is applied using a little-practiced traditional technique. Available in five variations, all encased in red or white gold cases, each version is limited to just 28 pieces. The watch also features a 68-hour power reserve and comes with the option of a black or deep blue alligator leather strap.

One name that certainly needs no introduction in the world of Haute Horlogerie is Blancpain. Steadfast pioneers of women’s horology, Blancpain made the very first self-winding wristwatch specifically for ladies back in 1930. Simply billed as the Women’s Collection, this watch is proof most positive that horological appreciation has always been far more than a male preserve. This watch, which debuted at Baselworld 2014, features 152 diamonds, 108 of which adorn its 36.8 mm red gold case.
Its white mother-of-pearl dial, sprinkled with faceted diamonds, features an off-centre sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the Blancpain signature perfectly balanced at 6 o’clock. Within the watch beats a new 226 part mechanical self-winding movement – the calibre 2663SR – which is visible through its sapphire crystal case back. The Women’s Collection is also available in white gold with a blue mother-of-pearl dial or a steel case with a white dial. Both gold versions are complemented by a white ostrich leather strap, while the steel incarnation comes with an alligator leather strap.

Rare Old Time

The terms ‘limited edition” or “collectible” have become somewhat debased of late. Rather than referring to items produced on a highly restricted basis for the discerning connoisseur, they have been hi-jacked by mass market chocolatiers and the like, all keen to slap a premiumish price tag on a 10-million run movie tie-in of some barely-themed confectionery.

Fortunately, in the world of haute horology at least, such terms have retained a modicum of meaning. A “limited edition” remains a timepiece that seldom troubles the double digits in production terms, while the “collectible” tag is still reserved for items of such investibility that any future down-on-its-luck generation could be wholly-schooled on the proceeds.

One watch clearly worthy of both appellations is the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Rio 2016 Limited Edition. As its name suggests, this particular timepiece offers a knowing nod to the Olympic Games, the ultimate sporting competition, the latest incarnation of which is scheduled to romp into Rio this very month. Taking its inspiration from the Games’ dynamic spirit, it is a true combination of watchmaking excellence and timeless craftsmanship. Beyond that, it also find space for an apt homage to the beauty and diversity that is 21^st century Rio.

The wave pattern on its classic lacquered black dial is more than a little reminiscent of mosaic design that graces many of the Copacabana’s sidewalks, while its lacquered red, green, yellow and blue numbers are a clear echo of the princely Olympic rings. Its ceramic black diving bezel, meanwhile, is the perfect counterpoint to its brushed stainless steel case. In an apt finishing touch, its screw-in caseback comes neatly stamped with the Rio 2016 logo. Reassuringly, it is also engraved with an individual limited edition number, proof undeniable of its collectible stature.

Similar assured of its position among the true stars of the most-collectible constellation is Breitling’s Chronoliner Limited Series. With the company committed to producing just 250 pieces, this truly limited edition time piece – courtesy of one of the world’s most admired watch brands – should be on every collector’s Christmas list. Encased in 180karat red gold and featuring a scratch-resistant high-tech black ceramic bezel, the Chronoliner can rightly claim to be every bit as aesthetically pleasing as it is functional.

Engineered to a standard designed to appeal to the most discerning of aviation professionals, the watch features a dedicated chronograph, ideal for measuring flight times, while its triple time zone display is a must for any world traveller. Its star-shaped cut-out facilitates easy handling, while its rubber strap harks back to the steel mesh design of the Breitling Classic Aero Bracelet. For those looking for a more distinguished look, contrasting leather and crocodile straps are also available.

Water-resistant to 100 metres the size is a comfortable 46mm. Powered by Breitling’s calibre 24 – officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) – the watch is self-winding, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour) and features 25 jewels studded throughout its cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofing.

Taking its inspiration from nature’s aviator, Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird champion the stylings of the very finest of our feathered friends. Its roots go way back to the Age of Enlightenment, a time when a young watchmaker of peasant stock first set about making his mark on his chosen profession.

That aspirant watchmaker was Pierre Jaquet-Droz and he, in turn, embraced the naturalist movement that was prevalent amongst many 18^th century intellectuals. This gave him a particular sensitivity to the beauties of the natural world. He was the first watchmaker to introduce a singing bird motif to his pocket watches. Ultimately, it became almost his trademark, proving ubiquitous across a range of snuffboxes and other objets d’art.

The brand’s long tradition of artistic renderings is given full rein on the Charming Bird’s upper dial section. This is home to a fetching time display, while the section below is devoted to a notably artistic impression of a bird in full song, all neatly housed within a sapphire crystal dome. The collector’s edition also comes with a delicate mother-of-pearl evocation of the Swiss countryside.

The technical aspects of this timepiece are no less impressive than its aesthetic impression. This sees two different mechanisms employed to drive, the watch, apparently the result of several years of R&D. In an another innovation, the bird’s song is generated by the passage of air through three miniature sapphire crystal tubes.

On to more strictly mechanical matters and the built-in regulator harnesses a magnetic effect in order to prevent contact between any metallic components. This also acts to eliminate auditory interference within the 47mm-diameter which. The piece is available in red or white gold, with each version limited to just eight pieces.

Coming in a slightly less limited edition is Chophard’s 20-run L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono. Created with the modern gentlemen very much in mind, this watch boasts one of the “most sophisticated styles and constructions in the world of Haute Horlogerie”, at least according to its manufacturers. Powered by the L.U.C. movement, Calibre 3.10L, at its heart the piece is a hand-wound chronograph, complete with a finely crafted perpetual calendar. It is available in fair-mined 18 karat white gold and 18 karat rose gold.

Some 42 jewels are housed within its 45mm case, while the dial itself features large twin-aperture calendar/date displays, a day/night indicator and an orbital moon phase display – said to provide accurate readings to within a day’s deviation over a 122-year period. A truly unique watch, it embodies Jaquet Droz’s exceptional uniquely artisanal savoir-faire.

Another watch to celebrate the arcane arts of the aviator is IWC Schaffhausen’s Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition. This is the first time the marque has incorporated an annual calendar into its Pilot’s Watch range. There is also a special edition that pays tribute to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, legendary writer and passionate aviator himself, and takes its name from Le Petit Prince, his much-loved children’s story.

In line with Saint-Exupéry’s long association with both literary and aviatory pursuits, the Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition Le Petit Prince celebrates these two pursuits. The special edition watch comes encased in red gold, an attribute that perfectly compliments the dark brown of both its Santoni calfskin strap and the shimmering blue sun-pattern finish on its dial.

The dial has three separate windows, all arrange in a semi-circle at 12 o’clock, showing the month, date and day of the week. The classic elegance of the watch is further underlined by a number of its more exquisite details, notably the white and red gold outline of the hands, numerals and appliqués, the polished bezel, the satin finished case and the beige coloured ornamental seams on the strap. The hands and indicators also come coated in white Super-LumiNova, something that helps ensure legibility even in low light situations.

This hand wound time piece comes with a seven-day power reserve, with the watch’s movement viewable through the watch’s sapphire glass back. Based on a drawing by Saint-Exupéry himself, the rears of the watch is adorned with a representation of the little prince standing on an asteroid and staring at the heavens with his eyes wide open. The very embodiment of classic understatement and technical mastery Le Petit Prince model is limited to just 250 pieces and is a true collector’s gem.

Aficionados of luxury time pieces will be reassured to hear that, while these watches are true collector’s pieces and only available in limited numbers, there is no need to pitch a tent outside a showroom and queue up. Although they are nominally available on a first-come-first-served basis, the only thing you need to do make your nearest retailer aware of your abiding interest in such high-end horological items of desire.

In fact, should your local dealership be worthy of the trust placed in them by many of the world’s foremost marques, there’s a better than evens chance that they will already have you on their radar. Gentlemen of true discernment and means are available in a far more limited edition than even the world’s most wantable watches. Once you have properly registered your interest, you can be sure that all of the latest information with regard to the most hard-to-get and collectible of chronometer should find its way to your mailbox – actual or virtual – with all the regularity and reliability of the very finest Swiss craftsmanship.