Art, Alchemy, and a Little Haute-Extravagance: Inside Alain Delamuraz’s Jaquet Droz World

Custom timepieces, royal-level craft, and the CEO’s secret ingredient: hospitality with a dash of disruption

In an interview with Alain Delamuraz, CEO of Jaquet Droz, the Swiss watchmaker since 1738, we discussed artistry being more than a tagline but an operating system, and the whole process of Swiss watchmaking history meets contemporary audacity, with a particular obsession for what happens when legacy becomes inspiration instead of a museum piece.

Alain Delamuraz’s answer to “Why emphasize custom timepieces?” starts with a poetic idea (and honestly, a bit of philosophy you want to frame on your wall):

He references the French writer Victor Hugo, who said, paraphrased here as, “the future is a door; the past is its key”. The point? You can’t truly know where you’re going without knowing where you came from.

For a brand as storied as Jaquet Droz, one that carries the spirit of Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the founder credited with innovation and aesthetic refinement, the lesson is clear:

Respect the roots.
But don’t copy the past.
Because, in Alain’s words, “If you copy, you die.”

So what’s the alternative? “Collect disruptive legacy.” Not disruption for disruption’s sake, more like controlled ignition. He describes a balance:

Too normal = too slow
Too revolutionary = you break the code

So Jaquet Droz aims for that sweet spot in between: pushing forward while keeping the soul intact.

And when he describes how that spirit shows up, it sounds less like product development and more like a chef bringing tradition to the table, then quietly inventing a new signature dish on the side.

Before stepping into luxury watch leadership, Alain’s career background includes hospitality, and it shows in the way he talks about clients and customization.

For him, hospitality is the main word, not only in hotels or restaurants, but anywhere we welcome people with intention. And in his world, “intention” means this:

High-level clients don’t want a transaction. They want attention, service, and anticipation, the kind that feels personal before it feels performative.

He even describes the training mindset: to understand what a customer needs, you learn to think like the customer yourself. Not in a scripted “pretend you’re them” way, but in a genuine way that helps you adapt to what they actually want before they have to ask.

In other words, the bespoke process isn’t just technical. It’s emotional. Hospitality, but make it horology.

Global curiosity, cultural nuance, and the art of tailoring

Alain’s childhood and early career weren’t steeped in watch jargon; they were steeped in openness: family, travel, curiosity.

From early experiences, saving his first money in a car-repair garage ecosystem, to traveling widely while young, he developed a mindset that’s basically the opposite of “one-size-fits-all.”

He explains that cultures respond differently: you don’t treat people the same way across regions and traditions, and you shouldn’t impose your own “default” mindset on someone else.

Then he brings it back to bespoke watchmaking:

Bespoke isn’t only the watch. It’s the relationship. The customer’s “DNA” becomes part of the piece, because what you’re really creating is a work of art built around the person, not the template.

Future Plans

When the conversation turns to the next 5 to 10 years, Alain Delamuraz returns to his favorite rule: look at the past to guide what’s next.

He points to the historical legacy of Pierre Jaquet-Droz crafting masterpieces for royalty, kings, and emperors. The guiding principle isn’t “only for the powerful” as a marketing concept; it’s about what that level of patronage demands:

If you make art for kings, you don’t do something irrelevant for others.
The brand focuses on the highest tier: complicated, exceptional artistry across crafts.
Each piece is unique—one by one, tailored to the individual patron.

He also describes a structural shift in the spirit of personalization: moving away from broad retail-style points of sale toward one-to-one human contact, the kind where the luxury is not just what you buy, but to whom you buy it from.

Because, he says, luxury is knowing the artist and building a relationship, similar to wanting to know the painter behind the painting, not just the painting itself.

And at the heart of that philosophy is collaboration: a watch as a collaboration between two artists. That’s the kind of sentence that makes you believe the process is less factory and more atelier, less mass customization, more hand-in-hand artistry.

Happiness, success, and the power to be responsive

Finally, Alain answers the big questions: what is happiness and success to him? He frames it as character, optimism as a way of seeing opportunities even inside chaos. He describes learning from difficult moments (including COVID) where the pressure forced re-invention and challenged the brand to think differently.

He also references an idea in the spirit of Darwin: It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.

So success, to Alain, isn’t just about balancing innovation and tradition; it’s about staying flexible, reacting like you’re on a wave rather than steering like you’re driving a van. Planning is important, but responsiveness is survival, and creativity loves a moving target.

In this conversation, Alain Delamuraz didn’t talk like a CEO delivering specs. He talked like an artist defending a craft philosophy:

The future opens with the past—but the brand must never become a copy.
Culture, curiosity, and relationships are part of engineering.
Success means staying responsive when the world changes the rules mid-game.

And that’s the extravagance here, not just in the watches, but in the belief that timepieces can be personal works of art.

Because if the key is the past… then the door is wide open.

[Feature Story] Jaquet Droz – Dazzling and Disruptive

Alain Delamuraz, CEO of Jaquet Droz explains why disruption has always been part of its DNA

Is the rich heritage of Jaquet Droz appealing to modern collectors?

The heritage is not only the product we do; the heritage is the way to do it, the spirit. It was the case of Pierre Jaquet-Droz from 1738, nearly 300 years ago; he was always finding a new approach.He was a disruptive person at that period of time, so we must continue in that vein. Respecting him is to continue to be disruptive.

I strongly believe that to respect the professor or the father, or the mentor, does not mean doing all what he told you.We have to inspire, we have to manage how to do it, to respect, but to push, to disrupt. To bring new ideas into the watch business it means new materials, new colours, and a new approach.

We have always been innovative. The tradition is the innovation.

In what ways have you refocused on the disruptive character of the brand?

We ask our artiststo take the time to lose their time by trying to find a new approach, to make it in another way, or to choose another subject.

So, for the new generation, it means that you can respect the art and the knowhow, but without buying the same watch as your father.

How do you personalise the buying experience for your collectors – do they receive unique watches?

We wanted to fully respect the past and the legacy. It is worth remembering that Pierre Jaquet-Droz was traveling to the courts of Europe, to the King of Spain, the King of Great Britain, the King of France, even to the Emperor in the Forbidden City in Beijing, China.

We decided, if we want to respect that, we should make a piece of art; it’s not watches anymore, they are pieces of art. And we should make a piece of art for the kings. But who are the kings today?

The ‘King’ today is the customer who can afford to buy a real piece of art with all the materials and know-how. We do then only pieces for kings, which means only, I must say, very expensive pieces.

Furthermore, as long as we make everything in-house, engraving, painting, why should we try to do the samepiece twice? I prefer the engraver, the painters, to do every time another painting, another engraving.

So, we concluded, we will only do unique pieces.

The half million customer, or even more, we must go to him and have a personal contact, as we only do unique watches. That’s why we put on the phygital concept, whereby the customers are in direct contact with the artist.

I can talk with a lot of passion and I love what we do and it’s fantastic, but it’s nothing compared to the emotion you will feel when you meet the artist.

Customersfirst have to come to see the artist to know what they want to do. And then we have facilities inside a studio, like a TV professional studio with six 4K cameras.The customer does not have to come back to the manufacture every three weeks to see the evolution of the creation of his piece of art. He can talkand he can influence the artist – to engrave like this or do it like that.

This is a phygital approach we construct at the manufacture to increase personal contact as well as use modern technology to be able to follow the process.

Why are you convinced luxury and sustainable development are not incompatible?

They are not at all. I come from the hotel business and from the beginning I was convinced that it is a mission for the people who have a lot of money to show the right rules in the right ways. It is compatible with the sustainability approach.

Any other comments?

I believe that you cannot construct and clarify the future without knowing where you come from. We are a startup which is nearly 300 years old. It’s unusual.

I love this philosophy. And for me, the guy who said it best is Victor Hugo, who said ‘The future is the door. The past is the key. The past is the key to open the door to the future.’ And this is exactly what we try to do, respecting the past.

The key thing is the experience you have with the customer, who also has an experience with our artist.

Time Warp: Six of the best – and quirkiest – watch dials on the market

Choosing a timepiece with a point of difference is a way to make a statement about your own personality. There are many aspects of a watch that can set you apart from your contemporaries, but nothing makes a statement quite as strikingly as a unique dial.

Jaquet Droz is a watchmaker that has long prided itself on creating watches that not only have exemplary technical specs, but also boast collections that have elegant and vivid dials that are worthy of being called works of art in their own right. True originals. The maison’s Relief Petite Heure Minute Tiger wristwatch is a case in point. Emanating power and masculinity, this bold creation has 18-karat white gold and opal dial, black onyx subdial with carefully hand-engraved and hand-painted 18-karat white gold tiger relief appliques.

The case (also 18-karat white gold) houses 144 baguette-cut diamonds and crown set with a diamond, with 28 jewels and 2.15 carats in total. It has a power reserve of 68 hours, is 41 mm in diameter and water resistant to 30 metres. A rolled-edge hand-made black alligator wristband completes the deal. The Relief Tiger also comes in an 18-karat red gold version.

More feminine, but still in a similar vein, is the Lady 8 Flower series. Featured next page is the iteration with the grand feu enamel dial. The 18-karat white gold case set boasts a to-die-for 114 diamonds, totalling 1.40 carats. There is a mechanical opening flower automaton movement and push-button automaton triggering mechanism. Meticulously hand-engraved petals in 18-karat white gold are prominent and there is a rotation of a briolette blue sapphire (0.24 carat) in both directions. The buckle is an 18-karat white gold folding clasp set with 47 dazzling diamonds.

Sticking with the theme of artistic horological creations with unique dials is this sublime offering from Franck Muller, in collaboration with acclaimed artist, Hom Nguyen. The two have joined forces to produce this exceptional timepiece: the Cintrée Curvex Double Mystery with Tourbillon. Nguyen is a French painter of Vietnamese origin who is famed for creating portraits in a figurative style – clearly depicted in the watchface.

In place of hands, time is shown by rotating discs with the brand’s trademark double mystery complication. Completly hand-drawn and assembled in the purest watchmaking tradition, this timepiece is equipped with a manual winding mechanical movement and boasts a power reserve of 60 hours.

Also from Frank Muller and distinctly more ladylike – but still retaining a certain degree of quirkiness – is the Vangaurd Lady Heart. Playfully replacing the numbers ‘3’ through ‘7’ with a burst of tastefully designed hearts, this watch incorporates dynamic and graceful features. The collection is a tribute to femininity, with a poignant silhouette and a poetic dial. Shown on previous page are the red and pink iterations.

This month’s offering by Roger Dubuis takes us way back in time to the days of merry old England, the Knights of the Round Table MT Gold is as playful as it is historically accurate – and a beautifully crafted timepiece to boot – with each number on the dial replaced with a mini-sculpture of one of the aforementioned knights of King Arthur’s fellowship, from Lancelot to all the others.

The main material of the dial is gold and a matching case with sapphire crystal with a special anti-reflective coating open case back with a sapphire crystal pink gold bezel with a saphhire crystal crown with Murano glass. The clasp comes with a gold cover, with titanium blades – triple folding – interchangeable with an ingenious crystal release system.

Rounding out our set of six is the Tag Heuer Monaco V4. This racey little number was made famous when it first appeared on the wrist of action-man film star Steve McQueen duirng his appearnce in the 1970 film Le Mans. This revolutionary watch features four barrels mounted on ball bearings, pinions and belts. The timepiece displays its movement through its anti-reflective sapphire glass – revealing the intricate design features within, comprising tungsten ingot, linear mass and two pairs of barrels, that are mounted in parallel and cleverly connected by belts.

Buffalo O’clock: Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. On clocks.

Many in the West and beyond welcomed in their New Year on 1 January, all no doubt happy to bid adieu to the travails of 2020 and welcome the next 12 months with the hope of better things to come. For many others – in fact, for about a fifth of the global population – the real celebrations, of course, begin on Friday, 12 February this year, the first day of Chinese New Year.

Hoping to take full advantage of the upcoming festivities, several of the world’s leading haute horology houses have turned their eye to creating special 2021 timepieces as they look to usher in the Year of the Ox. Among the many models jostling for attention, seven merit particular mention.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. vacheron constantin — Vacheron Constantin’s The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox

First up is one of the newest addition to Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art collection – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox. Inspired by jian zhi, a Chinese paper-cutting technique, its beautiful blue fascia features cut-out apertures for its day, date, hour and minute indicators. Available with either a blue or bronze-toned dial, taking pride of place in the centre of both variants is a lovingly engraved rendering of this mightiest of zodiac animals.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. blacpain front traditional chinese calendar — Blancpain’s Traditional Chinese Calendar

Eschewing the Gregorian calendar in favour of the Chinese version, meanwhile, is Blancpain’s aptly named Traditional Chinese Calendar. Its Arabic numeral date indicators and Roman numeral hour markers notwithstanding, this timepiece truly embraces the Chinese lunisolar calendar with its showcase of an array of traditional facets, including the zodiac signs, the five elements and the ten heavenly stems. The product of five long years of research and development, the 45mm watch is available in red gold as well as a 50-piece limited-edition platinum avatar.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. harvey winston — Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm

Inserting some sparkle to proceedings, meanwhile, is renowned jeweller Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm. Designed with diamond-loving ladies very much in mind, this dazzling creation forefronts a vivid red mother-of-pearl dial, ably accentuated by a diamond-studded ox. As if that weren’t enough, the bezel of its rose gold case has also been given a diamond upgrade, with stunning red leather straps completing its festive appeal.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Piaget_Altiplano_Chinese New Year — Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Ox

Boasting a similar diamond-studded bezel design is the Altiplano Year of the Ox, which is available from Swiss luxury maison Piaget, complete with a magnificently muscular ox fronting its gleaming white dial. This rugged zodiac symbol has been painstakingly rendered in Grand Feu cloisonne enamelling by master enameller Anita Porchet using a process that sees the dial fired at high temperatures repeatedly in order to ensure the image is perfectly captured, before being varnished to ensure longevity. Housed in a super-slim case – one the brand’s signature flourishes – the whole ensemble is powered by a cutting-edge 430P hand-wound movement.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” — Breguet’s Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox”

Another bovine-inspired wristwatch comes courtesy of the French-founded luxury label Breguet, with its new Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” featuring two buffalo bulls on an exquisite handcrafted dial. In order to capture the true vivacity of these magnificent beasts, the gold coating of each rendering has been electroplated multiple times, creating four contrasting shades. The hooves and horns, meanwhile, have been crafted in white gold, with the beauty of the piece standing as apt testament to the skill of Breguet’s craftsmen.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Chopard LUC Urushi Year of the Ox — Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox

Building on the golden ox motif – albeit with a distinctly outré approach – is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox. Here, the dial has been painstakingly fashioned using Urushi, a traditional Japanese lacquerware technique that uses continuously applied layers of lacquer and gold powder to great effect. The resultant fascia features a lushly coated ox pulling a wagon across the land. Coming with a 65-hour power reserve as standard, only 88 of these simply stunning timepieces will ever be made available.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF BUFFALO_FRONT jaquet droz — Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Buffalo

An even more exclusive creation – with just eight available in red gold and a further eight in white gold – is the Petite Heure Minute Buffalo, the latest work from renowned watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Featuring an onyx dial, it also boasts an enchanting top-mounted relief-engraved buffalo strolling along a plum tree on a raised tableau, all delivered through the wonder of hand-engraved gold appliqué work. Both variants measure 41mm in diameter, with the white gold style further accentuated with a gem-set bezel and lugs. From the symbolism of the imagery and the emblematic ox to the use of gold throughout, this stunning timepiece stands is the perfect tribute to the Year of the Metal Ox.

Inner Vision: Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces

As true watch enthusiasts already know, the movements of any high-end timepiece are paragons of precision engineering, painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate parts to produce a mechanism far greater than the sum of its parts. Unlike most of wristwatch history, the past few decades have seen the rise of an enticingly open-worked aesthetic – that of the transparent skeleton dial. The mechanical wonders of these intricately-designed movements are no longer hidden beneath the dazzling dials that draw the eyes.

Below, we highlight seven latest models that merit your full attention.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches — PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition by Glashütte Original

First to the table is Glashütte Original’s all-new PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition. Part of a 25-piece limited release, this particular iteration features a platinum case and a stunning hand-engraved dial with an off-centre small-seconds subdial boasting skeletonised hour and minute hands, an elegant moon phase indicator and a beautiful flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the automatic Calibre 93-12 movement’s off-centre skeletonised rotor, an oscillating mass crafted from 21K gold. Emblazoned across a screw-mounted stainless steel plaque are the words “Flying Tourbillon”.

Another stunning skeleton design comes from high-end marque Piaget in the form of its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. As to be expected, the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this new creation measures just 2mm in depth. In spite of its minimal footprint, this mechanical standout comprises 167 individual components. Due to space constraints, the traditional hour-and-minute dial has been innovatively reworked and placed under the bridge. Here, the hour hand has been replaced with an off-centre rotating disc, while the minute hand works in the usual way.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (3) — HYT’s H5 Red

A more outré open-worked design comes from independent watchmaker HYT’s new H5 Red. Combining art, precision mechanical engineering and the brand’s signature fluid technology – which uses liquids flowing through ultra-thin capillaries to portray time – this limited-edition release has been burnished with an eye-catching red motif. Beneath its domed sapphire crystal case of this mammoth 48.8mm creation lies the skeleton dial, enticingly ringed red fluidic hour markers. Perforated red rubber straps complete its avant-garde appeal.

Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic by Hublot

Swiss watch manufacturer Hublot, meanwhile, is embracing the digital age whole-heartedly with its limited-release Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic. Targetting its legion of China ‘Hublotistas’, just three pieces of this attention-grabbing skeletonised timepiece were released, exclusively through the Hublot WeChat Member Centre. Featuring an eye-catching rectangular design that is iconic of the Spirit of Big Bang collection, it is powered by a new HUB1233 Calibre movement that offers a staggering 10-day power reserve.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (5) — Free Bridge Infinity Edition by Girard-Perregaux

A similarly black-dominant open-faced creation comes from Girard-Perregaux in the form of its Free Bridge Infinity Edition. Crafted from steel but finished with a layer of extra-durable DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, this 44mm wrist adornment is burnished with skeletonised dauphine-style hands, while the hour markers lie suspended above the skeleton dial proper. Adding a dash of colour to its aesthetic are the pink gold hour markers that ring its fascia.

Also utilising a black-on-rose-gold motif is the latest revamp to Jaquet Droz’s much-loved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Stunningly minimalist, its stark design is transparent from both sides, drawing all attention firmly to the fully suspended gear train, skeletonised bridges and open-worked oscillating weight. This latest iteration also comes fitted with plasma ceramic – a first for the brand – which imbues it with robustness as well as a unique metallic glow.

“Skeleton dials allow you to view the marvellous movements of these watches”

Rounding out our list of outstanding skeleton dial watches is Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. Surely a tribute to the brand’s renowned skill in crafting the most intricate of wristwatch designs, it comes replete with a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, this statement timepiece sets a new benchmark for the complexity allowed by such open-worked designs.

Loving Butterfly Automaton: A stunning new timepiece from Jaquet Droz

Ever since watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz created his first automata mechanisms back in the late 18th century, these jaw-dropping, precision engineered creations have been a significant part of the illustrious history of the haute horology label he founded, Jaquet Droz. Now, 280 years after its foundation, the brand has unveiled the latest iteration of one of these dazzling designs – the Loving Butterfly Automaton.

First launched in 2017, the Loving Butterfly Automaton has seen several different avatars across the years in a variety of dials, including onyx, mother-of-pearl and aventurine. This latest model, though, plumbs the depths of Mother Earth’s history to create a dial lovingly crafted from Chinchilla Red, petrified wood dating back some 140-180 million years in far-eastern Australia.

Inspired by an artwork titled Le Papillon Conduit Par l’Amour, which was sketched by The Draughtsman – an automata created by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz back in 1774 – this latest 43mm timepiece depicts a backdrop of a golden forest through which the chariot-riding Cherub and the Butterfly meander.

Here, the haute horlogerie label’s expertise in automata comes literally to life, with the butterfly’s wings fluttering as if about to take flight, and the chariot wheels turning in unison, all combining to create the optical illusion of life on the dial, an effect further enhanced by the 3D-effect of the hand-engraved 18K red gold applique work.

Just 28 pieces of this shining example of high-end watchmaking will be produced, and part of the proceeds of the Loving Butterfly Automaton will generously be donated to reforestation efforts across the world, and in Australia in particular, where wildfires have devastated the country. To find out more, visit this website.

Fairer Secs: Making time for the ladies with these femme-focused timepieces

In the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were something an afterthought, largely uninspired designs with only the most basic of functions. They were, indeed, poor relations to the ever-more stunning, complex and precise pieces that constituted chap-oriented chronometers. This was, of course, because the majority of horological houses were solely preoccupied with churning out macho statement timepieces in the belief that men would always be the primary purchasers of high-end horological items.

That, of course, has all changed over the course of the last 10 years, with the more elegant lady watch-loving collectors now accounting for a significant proportion of international timepiece sales. As a consequence, the watchmaking industry has risen to the challenge of reinventing the outdated design aesthetics and mechanics that once characterised the watches-for-women sector. Indeed, gone are the days when petite, nondescript wrist accessories were deemed to suffice. In their place is a new generation of intricate, chronologically advanced mechanisms that are more than a match for their male counterparts in terms of stature. Of these, we’d recommend six femme-focused timepieces for your particular perusal…

Femme-focused timepieces - Breguet Marine Dame 9518 — Breguet Marine Dame 9518

First up is Breguet, with its all-new Marine Dame 9518 encapsulating a cool aquatic aesthetic. This is largely thanks to its beautifully hand-guillochéd wave-motif blue mother-of-pearl dial, fetchingly enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. Under the hood, the balance spring, escape wheel and lever have been ably crafted from ultra-lightweight silicon, with the self-winding Calibre 591A movement – visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback – extending to powering a date indicator. Water resistant to 50m, blue leather straps complete its memorably maritime appeal.

Femme-focused timepieces - IWC Portofino Automatic 34 — IWC Portofino Automatic 34

Another unusual design comes courtesy of renowned Swiss watchmaker IWC in the form of its defiantly distinct Portofino Automatic 34. Boasting an 18K 5N gold case ringed with 92 diamonds, its dial is all entrancingly silver-plated and fetchingly embossed, bestowing upon it a glamorously glittering sheen. Powering this 34mm style icon is a Calibre 35100 movement, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. Four other fresh-out-of-the-workshop models of the Portofino 34 are also available, all with an easy quick strap change system, giving wearers the option of matching a different look to their particular mood.

Femme-focused timepieces - Zenith Elite Moonphase — Zenith Elite Moonphase

Looking more aloft for inspiration, meanwhile, is Swiss manufacturer Zenith’s Elite Moonphase. With its silvery white dial burnished with a sunray-patterned motif, it comes neatly punctuated with a small running seconds hand at the nine o’clock slot. Housed in a slimly-elegant rose gold case and ringed with a diamond-set bezel, the jewel in its particular crown is undoubtedly its blue six-o’clock-set moonphase indicator.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto — Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto

In a departure from the usual circular case scenario, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a rectangular frame for its new Reverso One Duetto. Taking its inspiration from an earlier ’30s innovation, this red-hued hour-tracker was conceived with flexibility very much in mind. Its front face, restrained yet refined, is just about perfect for everyday wear, while its reverse side is all opulent elegance, led by a shimmering burgundy lacquered dial with the hour markers stretching outwards sunray-style.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart — Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart

Similarly opting for a bold scarlet style is the delicate Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart, the latest offering from Jaquet Droz. Available in a limited edition of just 28, it measures a mere 25mm in diameter, but its diminutive dimensions are more than made up for by the intricacies of its design. Ringed with diamonds and set in a rose gold case, this alluring piece of rococo wrist enhancement is crafted in the brand’s iconic figure-eight form. Its lower half is all minimal grace, with its ruby heart dial featuring solely hour and minute hands. The upper segment, by contrast, is all whimsical flourish, while housing a ruby ball bearing that swivels freely in line with any movement of the wrist.

Femme-focused timepieces - Panthère de Cartier Watch — Panthère de Cartier Watch

In the coveted number six slot on our list of femme-focused timepieces comes one of the most outré lady’s timepiece currently on offer – Cartier’s all-new Panthère de Cartier Watch, a tribute to the marque’s much-feted twin expertise in fashioning fine jewellery and watchmaking. The watch proper – a 22mm wide yellow gold case with a gem-set bezel and diamond hour marker – comes mounted with the inevitable bejewelled panther, an iconic Cartier emblem since 1914. Arresting, attention-grabbing and unabashedly conspicuous, it stands as an apt homage to the indomitable spirit of womankind.

One-of-a-kind watches to hit Only Watch Charity Auction 2019

The Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute horology enthusiasts the world over. Now in its eight iteration, the biennial event was first founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charitable organisation, the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM), which combats the rare Duchenne strain of the disease. It was the death of Pettavino’s son, Paul, who tragically succumbed to the condition at just 21, that inspired him to take up this worthy cause.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch Charity Auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently-worthy 40 million Swiss francs since its inception), this exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces from the world’s best-loved brands. This year, the auction will feature 50 unique lots crafted by 52 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which are set to go under the gavel in Geneva from 7 to 9 November. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding designs on offer.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked — Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked

First up is luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet with a unique white and rose gold Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked. This dual-tone interpretation of the model serves to heighten the architectural complexity and geometric shapes of the Code 11.59 layered case. Its central case, crafted from 18K rose gold and shaped in the brand’s iconic octagonal figure, sits sandwiched between an ultra-slim bezel, lugs and caseback, all burnished in a contrasting white gold hue. Its open-worked dial, meanwhile, provides an easy aperture through which to view the hand-wound skeletonised movement underneath.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Automatic — Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic

Another two-toned submission is an arresting blue and rose gold version of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic. While it’s a debut colour combination for the brand, this particular model already holds the distinction of being one of the world’s thinnest mechanical watches with a thickness of just 4.3mm. Indeed, it took the marque three years to bring this super-slim, open-worked design to life, with its watchmakers ultimately fashioning its Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P movement and case as one cohesive structure.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Jaquet Droz's Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch — Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch

For its part, Swiss haute horology label Jaquet Droz has also donated a superbly skeletonised watch to the charitable auction – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch. Taking pride of place on its fascia is a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, both overlapping to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. This unique rendition, though, sees its rail-track, hands and strap all furbished in a vibrant red in honour of the flag of Monaco, where AMM is headquartered.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Montblanc's 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019 — Montblanc’s 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019

Not to be outdone, Montblanc has produced the stunning blue-on-titanium 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019. The deep azure dial, lovingly crafted from blue agate, a hard semiprecious stone, stands in sharp contrast to the white-and-red double chronograph scale that rings it. Inspired by the marque’s ’30s-era military-style timepieces, a telemeter encircles its outer reaches, while a snail-shaped tachymeter dominates its central fascia. Powering the entire 44mm design is the hand-wound, hand-finished MB M16.31 movement, enticingly visible through its transparent caseback.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Zenith's El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch — Zenith’s El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch

Meanwhile, to mark the 50th anniversary of its iconic 1969 El Primero, Zenith has served up the El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch. A millimetre-accurate reproduction of the original, the only updates to its 37mm fascia are the use of sapphire crystal instead of acrylic and a new transparent caseback. As part of its celebrations, Zenith is further offering its lucky buyer a series of luxurious experiences, including a VIP visit to its Le Locle Manufacture, a lifetime warrantee and even an invitation to be a guest at the El Primero 50th Anniversary closing event in Geneva.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 — Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010

Perhaps the most mechanically intricate design at the 2019 Only Watch Charity Auction, though, comes courtesy of Patek Philippe, the masterful marque behind some of the world’s most cutting-edge timepieces. Its submission this year, the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010, is a delightful stainless steel interpretation of the first modern grand-sonnerie in its current collection. It boasts a staggering 20 complications in all, including two world firsts – an acoustic alarm chiming at a preselected time, and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. Its patented reversible dual-dial case, meanwhile, has been burnished alternately in a striking black ebony and an unusual salmon pink hue. From start to finish, this expansively-acreaged statement timepiece stands as a tribute to the finest haute horological arts.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction

Time to Shine: Seven superlative designs from Salon de TE’s World Brand Piazza

A must-visit event on the calendars of any haute horology enthusiast, the Salon de TE fair thankfully lived up to its hype when it rolled into town last month. Now in its seventh year, the horological affair stands as one of the region’s premier timepiece-themed events, featuring 144 brands from 22 countries in 2018 alone.

Not one to rest on its laurels, this year’s mammoth showcase boasted a staggering 840 exhibitors across its five-day itinerary. Perhaps the most noteworthy watches, though, came courtesy of the World Brand Piazza, one of the five specially-themed zones at Salon de TE. Sponsored by Prince Jewellery & Watch, it served up a plethora of eye-popping designs from some of the best-loved haute horology houses. While it would be folly to highlight the high-specced specifications of every piece, the seven statement timepieces below merit particular mention…

First up is renowned German watchmaker Glashütte Original with its PanoInverse – Limited Edition. Restricted to just 25 pieces, this timeless platinum iteration comes replete with an evocatively engraved skeleton dial that draws all attention squarely to its butterfly bridge and the manual-winding Calibre 66-08 movement beneath. Further fitted with an unusual off-centre hours / minutes dial and a small seconds subdial, dark blue Louisiana alligator leather straps complete its sophisticated appeal.

Another classically refined design comes courtesy of Jaquet Droz, with the newest interpretation of its Grande Seconde Dual Time seeing its much-loved figure-eight dual-dial updated to feature an azimuthal map of the world as viewed from the North Pole in its lower home time display. The 24-hour time indicator, now split into two distinct 12-hour day / night time segments, is another deft touch, while the local time takes pride of place in the upper half of its fascia. Available in a steel or rose gold case, it also comes with the option of opaline or Grand Feu enamel dials.

Taking a more minimalist approach is luxury watchmaker Breguet in the form of its Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. Showcasing the marque’s renowned handcraftsmanship skills, this is the first-ever Grand Feu enamel dial in its Grandes Complications collection. Fitted with its iconic blue steel hour and minute hands, the only conspicuous exception allowed on its Arabic-numeralled fascia is a dazzling tourbillon perched at 5 o’clock.

Athletically-inclined enthusiasts, meanwhile, could hardly be blamed for gravitating towards Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Automatique. Though adhering to the same design conceits – luminescent hands, numerals and hour markers, and a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel – that made the Fifty Fathoms one of the world’s most iconic dive watches, this new edition features an exceptional “Red Gold Case” and a debut blue ceramic dial for the collection. Set on blue calf leather straps, this maritimepiece is water-resistant to depths of 300m.

Also taking nautical exploration as its main motif is CORUM’s Admiral AC-ONE 45 Openworked Tourbillon. Interjecting an element of the outré, its avant-garde dodecagonal case boasts an exquisite skeletonised dial, revealing the cutting-edge CO 298 movement – created specifically for this model – underneath. With a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, the pride of this open-worked black-on-rose-gold watch is undoubtedly the intricate tourbillon resting at 6 o’clock, which offers the high-precision accuracy required for any true seafarer.

That selfsame black-and-rose-gold motif was evident – albeit with a haute joaillerie twist – in another horological standout: Piaget’s expansively real-estated Emperador Coussin XL 700P. While its cushion-shaped pink gold case measures a staggering 46.5mm, it nevertheless feels slim on the wrist, courtesy of its ultrathin 700P movement, which is perfectly highlighted through the use of the high-end brand’s iconic “reverse-construction” dial design. Ringed with an attractive diamond-studded bezel, only 118 pieces of this elegant creation will ever be made.

Perhaps the most eye-wateringly spectacular mash-up of high-end jewellery and haute horology, though, comes in the form of Franck Muller’s Rainbow Invisible Setting Tourbillon. Fitted with a glimmering gem-set tourbillon at 6 o’clock, its true attraction lies in the staggering array of precious gemstones that punctuates its acreage. Replete with 122 baguette-cut diamonds and 21 baguette-cut coloured sapphires on its dial, and burnished with a further 108 diamonds and 40 coloured sapphires on its rounded case, this shimmering statement timepiece added an additional dimension of sparkle to the glitteringly successful showing at this year’s Salon de TE.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Bare-faced Chic: Tracking the rise of the irresistible skeleton dial

As any watch enthusiast will only too willingly inform you, the movement of a high-end timepiece represents the very pinnacle of precision engineering, with each one painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate pieces to produce something that is far greater than the sum of its many parts. For much of horological history, however, these mechanical wonders have been secreted away, stashed beneath the dazzling dials designed to ensure that the true engine room is seldom glimpsed by the eyes of the uninitiated.

Thankfully, the last few decades have gone some way towards remedying this, largely on account of the rise of the temptingly transparent skeleton dial. Here, the emphasis is on leaving the watch’s fascia wholly unadorned and see-through on one or both sides, allowing the inner workings of these high-end chronograms to be easily – and continually – observed. While many of the manifestations of this particular trend are undeniably marvellous, seven of the current crop are particularly memorable…

Skeleton dial watches - Breguet's Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 — Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

First up is Breguet, the innovative Swiss marque credited with creating the world’s first tourbillon, which recently unveiled the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. Here, the open-worked fascia acts to emphasise the super-slim 3mm-thick Calibre 581 movement powering its new self-winding tourbillon, one that is said to be 50 percent lighter than any of its predecessors. Housed in a fluted rose gold case, this wonderfully slim watch’s carriage weighs in at just 0.29g.

Skeleton dial watches - Piaget's Emperador Coussin 1270S — Piaget’s Emperador Coussin 1270S

Elegant super-slim design is also the stock in trade of Piaget, as exemplified by the wafer-thin skeletonised lines of its tourbillon-incorporating Emperador Coussin 1270S. Measuring just 5.05mm, its Calibre 1270S movement was custom-built to fit its cushion-shaped white gold case. Here, the skeleton dial reveals the inner workings of its motor and tourbillon, as well as an off-centre four o’clock hour-and-minute subdial.

Skeleton dial watches - Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold — Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold

A more minimalist translucent offering comes courtesy of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold, which once again sports the brand’s classic black-on-rose-gold motif. Pride of place on its fascia goes to a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds subdial at six o’clock, both of which overlap to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. Its transparent caseback, meanwhile, facilitates a fascinating view of the double barrels that house its 68-hour power reserve.

Skeleton dial watches - Hublot's Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue — Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue

Eschewing classic contours for a more athletic approach is Hublot, with this affectation made manifest in its recently-unveiled Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue. Released in a limited edition of just 100, this aggressively-styled chronogram is the marque’s first barrel-shaped model to incorporate blue occlusioned carbon fibre. With its spacious appearance belying its intricate construction, its knowing design provides an unhindered view of its debutante HUB6020 movement. The tourbillon proper, all the while, takes place of pride at six o’clock, while a five-day power reserve indicator can be found at eight o’clock.

Skeleton dial watches - Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin — Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin

Another bold carbon fibre creation is on offer from Ulysse Nardin in the unmistakable form of the Skeleton X Magma. Burnished in an eye-catching lava red, the process of combining carbon fibre with red, marbled epoxy resin is said to make each case quite unique. The skeleton dial here comes punctuated with a rectangle motif – anchored on the left and right by Roman numeral hour markers – through which its UN-371 movement is immediately discernible.

Skeleton dial watches - Zenith’s Defy Inventor — Zenith’s Defy Inventor

Those of an avant-garde disposition, meanwhile, should ensure they get to properly appraise Zenith’s Defy Inventor. Housed in a titanium case that incorporates a bezel fashioned from meteorite-derived Aeronith, the world’s lightest titanium-composite, the pièce de résistance of its open-work design is undoubtedly the Zenith Oscillato. A groundbreaking single silicon component, this comprises an all-in-one balance wheel, balance spring and lever, which is said to grant the movement unprecedented precision and stability. Regrettably, just 10 pieces of this cutting-edge chronogram are destined to ever see the light of day.

Skeleton dial watches - Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom — Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom

Arguably, superiority in the skeleton dial stakes this time around, though, must be accorded to Armin Strom, the independent Swiss maison credited with creating the world’s first-ever such watch. Intriguingly, its latest offering – the Dual Time Resonance Sapphire – features not one but two separate movements, each tethered to a different time zone, as well as the brand’s revolutionary Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects and synchronises the two mechanisms, ensuring chronographic precision is never compromised. Complete with a 24-hour indicator at six o’clock, its outsized all-sapphire-crystal case facilitates 360-degree observation of the outré movement within – a fitting evolution of the skeleton-dial wristwatch the marque pioneered more than 40 years ago.

Text: Tenzing Thondup