Tag: Jaeger-LeCoultre

SIHH Highlights: Our favourite timepieces from the Geneva watch fair

Every year, a select band of haute horology enthusiasts set off, pilgrim-style, to explore the wonders of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva’s annual and highly-exclusive watch-fest.

SIHH Highlights

Set two months before the mighty Baselworld, the January-held SIHH gives all true chronographic aficionados their first opportunity to get a sense of how the year is likely to sit in the annals of all things timepiece.

And, if the 2018 event was anything to go by, the next 12 months are set to prove vintage for all those rightly mesmerised by fine mechanical movements. Overall, a staggering number of designs, with intricacy and intrigue matched in equal parts, made their debut in Switzerland’s second city. While it would be folly to try and list all of the event’s highlights in one brief article, a few items clearly merited particular mention.

JLC Reverso Tribute Duoface

Resurrected, re-invented classics always receive a warm welcome at the SIHH with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Duoface proving no exception. Reviving the marque’s iconic flippable Reverso face – a feature that debuted back in 1931 – the new model fetchingly mounts that self-same flipping mechanism on twotoned leather straps by Casa Fagliano, the rightly-famed Argentinean bootmaker.

Its slate-grey front dial ably displays hours, minutes and seconds, while its silvered Clous de Paris guilloché back features an additional day-night indicator. With the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched into its caseback, it simply couldn’t be more of a collectors’ item.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive

Ulysses Nardin, too, opted to immerse itself in its own regal past, taking its Diver Deep Dive model – one of the most famous manifestations of its legendary prowess in the nautically-engineered sector – to a whole new level. Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, this high-performance timepiece makes full use of the company’s proprietary UN-230 movement, while flaunting its maritime credentials through hammerheads on its crown guard, dial counter and caseback.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Ornementale

Vacheron Constantin, meanwhile, chose to revisit its more recent past with a comparatively swift upgrade to its 2005 masterpiece – the Tour de l’Ile. This fresh take – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication ‘Ornementale’ – is simply audacious and boasts 16 unique complications.

While its front dial – resplendent with a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and sunrise/sunset indicators – is fulsome enough, its true beauty can be found on the caseback, where a dizzying array of astronomical complications await. At its very epicenter lies a fascinating sky chart, richly encircled by season, zodiac and moon phases indices.

A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tribute to Walter Lange

Despite such worthy contenders, the timepiece that truly topped the tribute list was A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Homage to Walter Lange. More than just a touching homage to the brand’s late chairman, it’s also a fastidious reinvention of the jumping seconds complication, an innovation first introduced more than 150 years ago.

VCA Lady Arpels Planetarium

Moving from the celebratory to the more outré, this year’s SIHH featured a timely treat for watchloving women the world over in the sprightly form of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planétarium. This diamond-studded 38mm white gold watch features miniaturised models of Mercury, Venus and the Earth, all orbiting around a centrally-set ‘sun’ in real time.

Richard Mille RM 53-01

For its part, Richard Mille opted for something a little more gentlemanly, with its RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough proving an apt ode to the world of that true Sport of Kings – polo. Created in partnership with Donough, one of the sport’s finest practitioners, the RM53-01 is supremely smash-resistant and boasts a striking suspended tourbillon in its open-faced dial.

MB&F and Stepan Sarpanova MoonMachine 2

Overall, though, if pushed, it would have to be conceded that the most unconventional timepiece on show came courtesy of Stepan Sarpaneva, an independent Finnish watchmaker, and MB&F, one of Switzerland’s more progressive ateliers, and took the unmistakable form of the MoonMachine 2.

Acknowledged as experimental high-end watchmaking at its very best, its futuristic open-worked dial and distinctive trapezium-style bezel was only topped by its projected moon phase display, something of a first in the world of haute horology – and something that proved an apt reward for the many who found their way to the 2018 SIHH in search of something truly timeless.

 

Text: Tenzing Thondup

SIHH 2018: Our top five favourite watches from the prestigious watch event

SIHH – one of the most prestigious events in the calendar for watchmakers – sees industry specialists and watch lovers alike troop down to Geneva each year to witness the freshest crop of timepieces. Apart from releasing new models, the event is also an effective platform for predicting the latest trends of the year.

This year was no different. But among the titans of the horology world, a few stood out for a variety of reasons. Here’s our round-up of the top five timepieces that you need to watch out for!

SIHH 2018

Triple Split by A. Lange & Söhne

Full credit goes to A. Lange & Söhne for creating the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that simultaneously measures additive and comparative times for as long as twelve hours. With Triple Split, the haute horology house has outdone its previous record-holder Double Split. With precise rattrapante minute and hour counters, the Triple Split multiplies the measuring range of the rattrapante function by a factor of 24. Simply put, the Triple Split is accurate enough to compare the times of two opponents in a Formula 1 race down to the second.

SIHH 2018

Reverso Tribute Duoface by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Continuing its partnership with celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a 100-piece limited-edition Reverso Tribute Duoface mounted on signature Casa Fagliano two-tone cordovan leather straps. Taking off from the Duoface concept, the watch features two contrasting dials with different time zones.

Painstaking craftsmanship marks its every aspect, from the hand-applied hour markers with Dauphine hands to the Art Deco-inspired minute track. The handcrafted leather strap, with its unique patina and finishes and the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched on its case back seal the deal for this understated masterpiece.

SIHH

Diver Deep Dive by Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin carries on its love affair with the sea with the Diver Deep Dive, its most robust diving watch yet, with water resistance up to 1000 metres! Like its immediate predecessor, the Diver Deep Dive is powered by in-house calibre UN-320, featuring an escape wheel configuration and a patented silicium lever. Nautical influences are obvious in the choice of colour and design: 15 blue hammerheads swim on the dial, with a bright red one on the crown guard and another one on the dial counter. There’s even a hammerback stamped on the caseback!

SIHH 2018

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’ by Vacheron Constantin

Inspired by what was the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 2005: the famous Tour de l’Île by Vacheron Constantin, the makers have recreated their stupendous feat yet again in Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’. Displaying 16 separate complications in a relatively miniature package, the timepiece highlights Vacheron Constantin’s tour de force in both miniaturising and engineering. The complications are mostly astronomical, and features – in addition to hour and minute counters – 11 other functions such as minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, etc.

Lady Arpels Planétarium by Van Cleef & Arpels

In keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ elaborate creations, the Lady Arpels Planétarium – a part of the maison’s Poetic Astronomy Universe – simulates the planetary system on the limited surface of a wristwatch! Our most dazzling watch on the list, all its features, from the diamond-bedecked bezel and strap to the miniature planets made of precious stones revolving on the bright blue dial, are designed to inspire awe. But the most arresting part of the watch lies in its concept of imprecision. Devoid of hands, the watch revels in a state of perfect imprecision. While other watches seek to divide time to its minutest fraction, this one is a reminder of the enigma of time.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

 

Binge Watch: Seven standouts from Macau’s Masters of Time exhibition

Exploring the 450 watches of Masters of Time

Duty-free retailer DFS opened its ninth Masters of Time luxury watch exhibition in Macau in extravagant fashion. There were interactive pop-ups, whisky and caviar tastings, and live performances by Hong Kong songstress Jade Kwan and violin DJ Olivia Dawn.

But even without the flash and panache, it’s clear that DFS has its ear to the ground, following the latest haute horlogerie trends in a bid to give high-end watch collectors exactly what they’re looking for.

Over 450 pieces from 30 luxury brands were assembled for this year’s showcase, which runs until 28 February at T Galleria by DFS inside the Shoppes at Four Seasons.

Unique timepieces on show at Masters of Time

Christophe Chaix, Senior Vice President of Global Merchandising at DFS, says there is no real equivalent to Masters of Time. “Of course there are trade shows like Baselworld and SIHH, but there is no other exhibition like this in the world dedicated to the end consumer,” Chaix says.

His confidence is not misplaced. In just nine years, the annual exhibition has become one of Asia’s premier watch events, drawing collectors from China, Singapore, Australia and beyond.

In that time, discerning women collectors have become one of the industry’s fastest-growing segments. No longer satisfied with simple watches in frilly decorative packaging, the fairer sex is now demanding mechanical complications on par with their male counterparts. And Masters of Time has risen to the challenge.

4. Jacquet Droz Lady 8

One of the best models from its selection of women’s watches is Jaquet Droz’s Lady 8 Flower, a perfect blend of beauty and complexity. Fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, the design’s centrepiece is a lotus perched atop a blue sapphire-studded bezel. A press of the button opens its petals to reveal a faceted diamond briolette rotating on its axis.

Another women’s watch that may appeal to collectors is Breguet’s individually numbered and signed Tradition 7038, the first model for ladies in its Tradition collection. Although slightly on the large side at 37mm, it owes its unmistakable femininity to a diamond-set bezel, mother-of- pearl dial and white alligator leather strap.

5. Breguet's Tradition Dame 7038

While complex timepieces for ladies are still relatively rare, Masters of Time is a horological treasure trove for the discerning male collector.

Classic craftsmanship never goes out of style, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing to its strengths with the Master Gyrotourbillon 1. Boasting a dual-axis tourbillon movement, this elegant timepiece also shows the date and includes a perpetual calendar and an equation of time complication. The dial’s intricate mother-of-pearl lacework and aventurine stone marquetry evoke images of a clear night sky.

Heritage watches also feature prominently at Masters of Time this year, such as Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. Paying tribute to the brand’s nautical history, the handcrafted marquetry on its pine oak dial imitates a ship’s deck, while the arching minute hand resembles a ship’s boom. Add to that a visible flying tourbillon and this 18-piece model is a guaranteed conversation starter.

6. Ulysse Nardin's Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon

Another homage timepiece is Blancpain’s limited-edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The original Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 as the world’s first automatic diving watch, and fortunately, the current model retains that vintage vibe while still meeting modern divers’ needs with its uni-rotational bezel and water tightness indicator.

As far as contemporary timepieces go, sports watches are all the rage. In particular, partnerships between luxury car manufacturers and horology houses have spawned some interesting timepieces. Several are on show at Masters of Time, including Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Aventador S (featured in Gafencu’s November issue) and Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph.

8 Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45MM

The true feather in DFS’ cap, though, is the special edition Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45mm from Tag Heuer. This one-of-a-kind timepiece was created especially for Masters of Time, with its hands, hour markers and strap all outfitted in the luxury retailer’s signature red.

Sadly, this watch is no longer on the market, having been snapped up by an eager collector before the exhibition even began.

With so many watches on display, it’s hard to characterise Masters of Time in a singular way. Suffice it to say, a trip to the exhibition is an illuminating lesson in the sheer diversity that exists in the world of modern watchmaking.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: DFS

Annual Academy Ball fundraiser a star-studded success

The annual Academy Ball is one of the key charity events on Hong Kong high society’s social calendar, and this year’s #LIKEINAMOVIE-themed party did not disappoint. Over 400 donors and supporters of the Academy of Performing Arts (APA) turned up for the exclusive fundraising gala including guest of honour HKSAR Financial Secretary Paul Chan.

Other A-list attendees included Charmaine Ho, Sabrina Ho, Harris Chan, Jonathan Cheung, Rosamund Kwan, Brandon Chau, Kathy Chow, Angela Leong  and many more.

Pianist Yundi Li and Stanley Ho's son Mario performed lovely duets at the Academy Gala

Held in order to raise scholarship funds for outstanding APA students, last week’s Academy Ball featured live performances by renowned pianist Yundi Li, Mario Ho and May Lui. Academy students also showcased their talents, performing a dance tribute to six classic movie musicals.

The evening culminated in a charity auction featuring 13 high-end items donated by luxury watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre (the Academy Ball’s title sponsor), Poly Auction and other generous patrons.

APA Council Chairman Stephen Chow Chun-kay, Director Adrian Walter and Executive Chairwoman Winnie Chiu were thrilled by the turn out and by the generosity of this year’s Academy Ball attendees.

IN APPRECIATION OF THE FEMININE FORM

For the twelfth consecutive year, Jeager-LeCoultre enjoyed its status as a partner of the Venice International Film Festival, the 73rd edition of which was held from the 31st August to the 10th September this year. To coincide with this iconic event in the film calendar the Grande Maison unveiled its very latest jewellery creations. The collection, which is a tribute to all things feminine, is yet another spectacular triumph of elegance, luxury and splendor that Jaeger-LeCoultre is synonymous with.