Enamel Polish: Intricately crafted grand feu dials take timepieces into another dimension

Enamel timepieces represent some of the most elegant and beautiful models available in the high-end watch market. The process of constructing an enamel dial is time-consuming and expensive. It involves fusing soft glass – usually made from silica – onto a metal substrate in an oven heated to about 800°C – hence the term grand feu enamel – and delicately applying layers of enamel powder by paintbrush onto a wafer-thin metal disc.

It is a temperamental material that may emerge from the oven with imperfections. Successive coats and multiple firing cycles are required for a uniform surface – the need for five or more layers of enamel is usual. Yet, the watch dials can be just a millimetre thick, if not thinner. The craft takes years of practice and often renders each dial unique.

A fine example of a dazzling enamel watch is Vacheron Constantin’s recent addition to its Métiers d’Art collection. Tribute to Explorer Naturalists embraces, in fact, four models each released in 10-piece limited editions and designed as a tribute to the scientific discoveries of the Voyage of the Beagle in the early 1830s. The dexterity of the master engravers and enamellers comes to the fore in the aesthetics of richly decorated grand feu miniature enamel dials displaying scenes from four locations along the coast of South America, where Charles Darwin encountered previously unknown plants and animals.

Encased in a 41-mm diameter 18-carat white or pink gold case and featuring a jumping hours and minutes display, each scene took a master enameller four days of meticulous craftsmanship to compose, using fine pigments on a two-level dial. For instance, the white-gold Cap-Vert model concentrates on the Cape Verde stop (January 1832), with the upper dial displaying the HMS Beagle in the centre, viewed from the stern, while the lower dial on the right enthrals with a montage of colourful flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Breguet’s Classique Dragon 7145 celebrates the Chinese zodiac with the powerful dragon exotically embellishing a distinctive dial composed of red grand feu enamel with gold applied – a perfect combination to bring out the majesty of the auspicious creature. Utilising a Calibre 502.5 self-winding movement housed in a rose-gold case, the watch is limited to eight pieces and blessed with a power reserve of 45 hours.

Chopard often calls upon the power of the enamellist to highlight the aesthetic qualities of a watch. Take its Imperiale in 18-carat ethical white gold, which has two enamel colour tones gracing the dial. Most noticeably, a deep, luscious blue-green enamel sets the tone of this feminine watch, which is encircled by white enamel-filled arabesques formed out of a raised white-gold decorative fillet. Its elegance is enhanced by a shower of padparadscha sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, as well as gilded openwork dagger-shaped hour and minute hands. A seamless alligator strap in blue-green or pink comes with a white-gold buckle set with diamonds.

Representing a first for the minimalist Louis Erard Le Régulateur model, an edition just off the blocks has a dial made with grand feu enamel. Unlike a traditional dial, an enamel dial comes without the risk of fading and the unalterable hue here is a slightly speckled ivory colour. It is the handiwork of the Donzé Cadrans workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The hours counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock come in two-colour enamel detail, fused together by the final firing. Crafted in polished stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is limited to 99 pieces, underscoring the exclusivity of enamel-dial watches.

Dedicated to métiers d’art, Geneva-based Taos has a range of one-of-a-kind watches that employ the luxuriousness of enamel. The Euphorie is dressed in a grand feu paillonné enamel dial, achieved through a multiple overlay of gold and silver paillons and enamel emanating from multiple firings. Its bold colour code comprises red, orange and black. The self-winding VOP318 calibre movement was developed exclusively by Swiss manufacturer Télôs for the independent watchmaker. The pretty Floréal model has a silver, blue and pink dial with a miniature flower painting etched out of mother-of-pearl placed on paillonné enamel. Delightful petals are formed out of cloisonné enamel.

The pink-gold Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ timepiece was released by Jaeger-Lecoultre in homage to the ancient crafts of enamelling and engraving. Both the dial and case back are composed of grand feu enamel in such a pure black hue that they required five or six layers of enamel to ensure the depth of colour is retained. This was a lengthy process as each new layer necessitated another round of firing and cooling – meaning the process took many days, eventually culminating in a half-day of polishing. Other notable features include the dragon etched out of pink gold and set among golden clouds on the reverse side of the case and the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually wound Calibre 822 movement.

Limited to 50 pieces, Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar entered its second 12-year cycle this year with a new addition utilising full-fired grand feu enamel for its dial. Marking a first for this unique grand complication series that boasts both a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase, it pairs red gold with a green enamel dial for a striking colour code. The patented under-lug correctors that facilitate finger-tip changes of the calendar are also worthy of remark. Another nifty mechanism protects from damage if settings are adjusted during automatic changes.

Cartier’s latest Crocodile Jewellery watches utilise the aesthetics and magical beauty of enamel to full effect. Graded enamel is used to recreate a sculptural creature in the guise of a crocodile which coils menacingly around the case and dial. The crocodile’s bright emerald eye, its scaly skin and slick curves crafted from enamel portray depth and realism and harmonise with the hues emanating from diamonds and gemstones adorning the timepiece. Besides a crocodile and a crocodile-cum-zebra, there are numerous other iterations of these bewitching, bejewelled animal watches that cannot fail to capture the imagination.

Seiko’s Presage SPB403J1 model in the Craftmanship Series features an enamel dial as part of its attributes, wedged in a 40.2-mm case made of stainless steel with super-hard coating. Its dual-curved sapphire crystal glass is daubed with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. Powered by a 6R55 automatic manually wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, it is water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and has a see-through case back.

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Cartier_Masse mysterieuse — (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40

Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_patek_philippe_antiplano_ultimate_concept — (Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Jaeger_lecoultre_master_hybris_artistica_calibre — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre)

Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.

Wrist Candy: Five dazzling high jewellery watches to add to your collection

Although the world of haute horology is, today, a male-dominated sphere, the industry actually owes the rise of wristwatches to demand from the fairer sex. During the late 19th century, when pocket watches were still the norm, it was women who had began adorning their wrists with fashionable gem-studded timepieces. Today, high jewellery watches blend the best of haute horology and high jewellery traditions in utterly stunning expressions that make for captivating timepieces that ensure all eyes are firmly on you…

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Purple Arums
The line between art and watchmaking is often blurred when it comes to high jewellery watches, and renowned Swiss horologist Jaeger-LeCoultre plays with this amalgam exceptionally well with its latest Reverso, Purple Arums. Taking inspiration from decorative jewellery worn in the ’20s, the 40mm self-winding wristwatch, powered by the watchmaker’s patented Calibre 846 movement, introduces a truly unique Reverso iteration replete with the model’s iconic double-sided rectangular case. Its vivid floral design seamlessly flows across the rotatable case front, exhibiting a high level of craftsmanship that required a painstaking 95-hour process of gem-setting, enamelling and engraving to create.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie
Staying with manual-winding chronographs, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the multiple facets of femininity through its new Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021, the ultra chic and elegantly versatile 35mm jewellery watch is truly worth of being added to the collection of any discerning fashionista. Featuring the maison’s signature off-centre display and asymmetrical geometry (artfully interlace two circles), a total of 574 round-cut diamonds punctuate the dial as well as the watch’s bezel, flanks and lugs, imparting an added sparkle to proceedings.

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise
The next entry on our list of stunning high jewellery watches comes courtesy of Swiss luxury watch and jewellery maker Piaget. The Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is an automatic movement that features an eye-catching 32mm 18K white gold case and a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut blue sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, all of which were carefully sifted through to create the seamlessly flowing gradient that outlines the snowy, diamond embellished dial mixed with different-sized gemstones — a true beauty for the modern-day woman.

Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony
Next up, a marriage between haute horology and haute couture comes through a combination of technical innovation and the art of watchmaking – the intricately detailed Double Mystery Peony from Swiss horology brand Frank Muller. The 42mm mechanical complication, powered by a 42 DM PEONY D 2R CD movement, boasts a gorgeous gem-studded dial replete with 662 brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones, all of which were painstakingly hand-set. Further accentuating its avant-garde aesthetics are the hour and minute indicators, which are placed on rotating discs at its centre.

Cartier Libre Baignoire Turtle
Rounding out our list of high jewellery watches is luxury maison Cartier’s limited-edition Libre Baignoire Turtle watch. Taking inspiration from its 2019 Baignoire predecessor, just 30 pieces of this masterclass in jewellery watchmaking will be produced. Playful, sophisticated and all-but-guaranteed to ensnare any passing gaze, its geometric motif is punctuated with anthracite, buff-topped sapphires and pavé diamonds that together call to mind the scaling of a turtle’s shell.

Tourbillon and on: The continual rise of the world’s favourite gravity defying watch…

When renowned watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon back in 1795, it was rightly hailed as a revolution in the horological arts. After all, this tiny mechanism – a genius bit of engineering that houses the escapement and balance wheel in a continuously rotating cage – counteracts the effects of gravity by continuously correcting any positional errors. This innovative mechanism ensured that the popular pocket watches of the day – worn vertically and hitherto susceptible to gravity-derived inaccuracies – told precisely the right time no matter where they were positioned.

In the contemporary, wristwatch-favouring era, of course, tourbillons are inevitably a little less indispensable. This, though, has in no way diminished their appeal to the more discerning collector, with haute horology houses subsequently never more keen to unveil ever-more ornate iterations of the original design. While their numbers truly are legion, seven in particular merit especial consideration…

First up is the somewhat unconventional DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a relatively new offering from independent Swiss watch manufacture De Bethune, which boasts not one but two distinct faces on its 42.8mm titanium pivoting case. On one side lies a traditional blue-on-white guilloché watch face with Arabic hour markers ringed by a seconds indicator. The reverse dial, though, is all about contemporary appeal, with a lovingly crafted titanium Ultra-light De Bethune 30” tourbillon taking pride of place at 6 o’clock. Blending the past and present with true aplomb, extra-supple alligator straps complete its appeal.

A more futuristic twist, meanwhile, comes courtesy of Chopard with its new Mille Miglia Lab One. Conceived as a concept watch and a homage to the high-performance race cars of Italy’s famous Mille Miglia race, this stunning timepiece has been crafted from ultra-lightweight black bead-blasted titanium. The brand’s first self-winding tourbillon chronometer, under the hood of this 20-piece limited release can be found a Chopard 04.03-M movement, effortlessly powering a titanium tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Similarly opting for an ever so cool all-black aesthetic is the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, which is now available from the indisputably luxurious Bulgari brand. Fetchingly, its noir fascia comes fitted with an open-worked metallic grille, allowing a fascinating glimpse of its new BVL428 manual-winding movement. Housed in a black DLC titanium case, this 44mm timepiece effectively combines both a tourbillon and a three-hammer case while maintaining a minimalist – almost industrial – flair.

Deservedly meriting our fourth slot is the stunningly slim Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which comes complete with a classic white-on-rose gold motif. Unashamedly taking tourbillon stylings to a new height – quite literally – this elegant wrist adornment’s flying tourbillon is paired with a moon phase aperture ringed by a jumping date indicator at the top of the dial. The design’s thinness – something of a signature look for JLC – belies the complexity of its engineering and measures a scant 12.1mm.

Another precision engineering masterpiece setting its sights on the skies is the Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, with its 18K pink gold case – burnished with a shimmering black aventurine dial reminiscent of a star-lit night sky – making it a real standout. Equipped with a Calibre 2950 movement that combines a flying tourbillon with a central rotor, this 41mm timepiece is also available as a white gold-blue aventurine avatar.

For those in search of something a little more outré, German luxury label Montblanc’s new Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition 8 skeletonised tourbillon timepiece delivers in spades. Its innovative open-worked approach, for instance, affords direct views into the inner workings of its Calibre M B M 18.69 movement – a mechanism comprising 188 disparate parts, all lovingly handcrafted by the maison’s skilled artisans. Its dial proper, meanwhile, has been neatly bisected, with an off-centre hour-and-minute dial at 12 o’clock perfectly balancing the Exo Tourbillon on its southern hemisphere. As its name suggests, this fine example of haute horology is available in a limited edition of just eight.

A true statement timepiece, however, concludes this month’s round-up – Vacheron Constantin’s recently-unveiled Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin. Launched to welcome the Lunar New Year, its hand-guillochéd black dial comes elaborately burnished with a pair of matching hand-engraved Qilin – the mythical hooved chimeric creature of Chinese legend. The tourbillon proper at 6 o’clock, meanwhile, comes fitted with a small seconds indicator and sits beneath a gold-accented power-reserve indicator. A perfect blend of precision engineering and gorgeous aesthetics, this is a future collector’s piece in waiting.

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Intricate, sophisticated watches have been something of a staple in the blockbuster Kingsman series, and the latest instalment – The King’s Man, set to release in Hong Kong threatres come September 17th – looks to be no different. To fill in the time until the movie releases, though, haute horology enthusiasts can have something of a sneak peek courtesy of a special partnership between luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER, the online fashion portal dubbed the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch.

Available exclusively on MR PORTER, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch actually features as part of the upcoming motion picture’s costume collection. With The King’s Man set to transport audiences some 100 years into the past to the founding of the Kingsmen agency, the wrist candy is set to be limited to a release of just 100 pieces.

Similarly looking to its past, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new design harks back to a 1907 pocket watch predecessor named ‘Couteau’, or ‘knife’ in French, and is equally sleek and slim at just 1.85mm thick. Fitted with an in-house calibre 849 movement, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is available now until September 6th.

Fairer Secs: Making time for the ladies with these femme-focused timepieces

In the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were something an afterthought, largely uninspired designs with only the most basic of functions. They were, indeed, poor relations to the ever-more stunning, complex and precise pieces that constituted chap-oriented chronometers. This was, of course, because the majority of horological houses were solely preoccupied with churning out macho statement timepieces in the belief that men would always be the primary purchasers of high-end horological items.

That, of course, has all changed over the course of the last 10 years, with the more elegant lady watch-loving collectors now accounting for a significant proportion of international timepiece sales. As a consequence, the watchmaking industry has risen to the challenge of reinventing the outdated design aesthetics and mechanics that once characterised the watches-for-women sector. Indeed, gone are the days when petite, nondescript wrist accessories were deemed to suffice. In their place is a new generation of intricate, chronologically advanced mechanisms that are more than a match for their male counterparts in terms of stature. Of these, we’d recommend six femme-focused timepieces for your particular perusal…

Femme-focused timepieces - Breguet Marine Dame 9518 — Breguet Marine Dame 9518

First up is Breguet, with its all-new Marine Dame 9518 encapsulating a cool aquatic aesthetic. This is largely thanks to its beautifully hand-guillochéd wave-motif blue mother-of-pearl dial, fetchingly enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. Under the hood, the balance spring, escape wheel and lever have been ably crafted from ultra-lightweight silicon, with the self-winding Calibre 591A movement – visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback – extending to powering a date indicator. Water resistant to 50m, blue leather straps complete its memorably maritime appeal.

Femme-focused timepieces - IWC Portofino Automatic 34 — IWC Portofino Automatic 34

Another unusual design comes courtesy of renowned Swiss watchmaker IWC in the form of its defiantly distinct Portofino Automatic 34. Boasting an 18K 5N gold case ringed with 92 diamonds, its dial is all entrancingly silver-plated and fetchingly embossed, bestowing upon it a glamorously glittering sheen. Powering this 34mm style icon is a Calibre 35100 movement, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. Four other fresh-out-of-the-workshop models of the Portofino 34 are also available, all with an easy quick strap change system, giving wearers the option of matching a different look to their particular mood.

Femme-focused timepieces - Zenith Elite Moonphase — Zenith Elite Moonphase

Looking more aloft for inspiration, meanwhile, is Swiss manufacturer Zenith’s Elite Moonphase. With its silvery white dial burnished with a sunray-patterned motif, it comes neatly punctuated with a small running seconds hand at the nine o’clock slot. Housed in a slimly-elegant rose gold case and ringed with a diamond-set bezel, the jewel in its particular crown is undoubtedly its blue six-o’clock-set moonphase indicator.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto — Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto

In a departure from the usual circular case scenario, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a rectangular frame for its new Reverso One Duetto. Taking its inspiration from an earlier ’30s innovation, this red-hued hour-tracker was conceived with flexibility very much in mind. Its front face, restrained yet refined, is just about perfect for everyday wear, while its reverse side is all opulent elegance, led by a shimmering burgundy lacquered dial with the hour markers stretching outwards sunray-style.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart — Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart

Similarly opting for a bold scarlet style is the delicate Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart, the latest offering from Jaquet Droz. Available in a limited edition of just 28, it measures a mere 25mm in diameter, but its diminutive dimensions are more than made up for by the intricacies of its design. Ringed with diamonds and set in a rose gold case, this alluring piece of rococo wrist enhancement is crafted in the brand’s iconic figure-eight form. Its lower half is all minimal grace, with its ruby heart dial featuring solely hour and minute hands. The upper segment, by contrast, is all whimsical flourish, while housing a ruby ball bearing that swivels freely in line with any movement of the wrist.

Femme-focused timepieces - Panthère de Cartier Watch — Panthère de Cartier Watch

In the coveted number six slot on our list of femme-focused timepieces comes one of the most outré lady’s timepiece currently on offer – Cartier’s all-new Panthère de Cartier Watch, a tribute to the marque’s much-feted twin expertise in fashioning fine jewellery and watchmaking. The watch proper – a 22mm wide yellow gold case with a gem-set bezel and diamond hour marker – comes mounted with the inevitable bejewelled panther, an iconic Cartier emblem since 1914. Arresting, attention-grabbing and unabashedly conspicuous, it stands as an apt homage to the indomitable spirit of womankind.

Perpetual Bliss: A round-up of the latest perpetual calendar watches

It’s no secret that, pretty much since it was invented by Thomas Mudge, an intrepid English watchmaker, back in 1762, the perpetual calendar has taken pride of place on the fascia of countless treasured timepieces from many of the world’s most well-loved haute horology houses. For the uninitiated, these are mechanisms capable of not only keeping track of the date, day and month, but also of every passing year – including leap years. In the case of most currently available models, their movements can remain untweaked until 2100 at the very least.

Today, despite the time and effort that go into creating these notoriously complex complications, there is no shortage of innovative new iterations. A particularly admirable example comes courtesy of Chopard in the form of its L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl. A homage to the Tian Long dragons of classical Chinese mythology, two such beasts majestically adorn the watch’s beautifully hand-engraved rose gold case – a process said to require some 200 hours of work by one of the brand’s finest artisans. The dial proper then boasts a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, while the perpetual calendar indicators can be found at 3 and 9 o’clock. Fitted with a hand-wound Calibre L.U.C 02.15-L movement as standard, this one-of-a-kind timepiece is a collectors’ item in waiting.

1 L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl by Chopard — L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl by Chopard

Eschewing the outré in favour of the more minimalist, Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar opts for a truly timeless white-rose gold combination. A 100-piece limited-model, it boasts a moon phase movement and a dual-time function, as well as its duly-forefronted perpetual complication. One particularly adept addition is a nifty new safety feature that prevents users from adjusting the chronogram between the hours of 9pm and 3am – a move that ensures its precision mechanism remains tamper-free and its useful life is extended and optimised.

2 Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar — Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar

Delightfully clean counters are also on offer from A Lange & Söhne and have been ably enshrined in its blue-and-white Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary”. Beneath its dazzling dial – elegantly embellished with an off-key, off-centre hour-and-minute subdial, a moon phase display and day-date-month indicators – beats the house’s legendary Calibre L082.1, a self-winding movement that’s so complex it comprises 624 individual parts. With a hidden subdial tourbillon only adding to its sophistication, it is daringly debonair yet unobtrusively opulent.

3 Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary” by A Lange and Sohne — Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary” by A Lange and Sohne

Again sporting an eminently elegant blue-and-white gold livery is the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel, one of the latest offerings from the ever-innovative house of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Elegantly showcasing the marque’s renowned artisanal craftsmanship, its hand-guilloché dial is the perfect counterpoint to its fascia-featured perpetual complication and moon phase movements. Polished and poised, this ultra-slim limited-edition model is an apt homage to beautiful yet intricate watchmaking at its very finest.

4 Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre — Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Acknowledging the current ascendancy of the super-slim look, Vacheron Constantin’s new Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, weighs in with a positively waif-like depth of 5.7mm, a feat made more miraculous still by the fact its sensationally-slender width houses a perpetual calendar, a moon phase and a minute repeater. Powering all this is the remarkable manual-winding Calibre 1731 movement, a feat of precision engineering comprising 438 individual wafer-thin components. One of the true hero pieces in the watchmaker’s widely-admired Les Cabinotiers range, only two one-off versions – one in white gold and one in pink gold – are ever destined to see the light of day.

5 Vacheron Constantin's Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar — Vacheron Constantin’s Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

With its eye firmly on the Asian market, for its part, Blancpain has opted to release an exclusive boutique version of its rightly-lauded Villeret Quantième Perpétuel. Available in a limited edition of just 88, the white gold case of the original has been upgraded to platinum, while its redesigned dial rejoices in an all-new sunray-brushed deep blue hue. In a particularly deft move, Blancpain has also damage-proofed the perpetual calendar via an integral security system within the self-winding Calibre 5954 movement.

6 Blancpain's Villeret Quantième Perpétuel — Blancpain’s Villeret Quantième Perpétuel

The title of Perpetual Calendar King – were it on offer – though, would surely go to Patek Philippe, long considered among the most masterful of marques when it comes to grand complications. As proof incontestable, the latest iteration of its Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 is undoubtedly its most complex to date, a title attested to by its incorporation of 20 individual complications.

7 Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 by Patek Philippe — Grandmaster Chime Ref.6300G-010 by Patek Philippe

With a touch of the avant-garde, its entire case can be rotated around its lug connection points, with both fascia deployed to display its intricate inner workings – which, in addition to the perpetual complication, include five different chiming modes, a second time zone display with day / night indicator and a moon phase. In a knowing nod to the kind of wealthy, debonair gentlemen likely to sport such a horological high-water mark, each watch comes boxed with complimentary complementing cufflinks boasting the same blue opaline-on-white gold motif as this truly timeless timepiece.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

SIHH Standouts: Highlights from the Geneva-based haute horology fair

No matter how nice a watch you got for Christmas or just which top timepiece you wielded as you ticked down the dying seconds of 2018 in Victoria Harbour, your head was probably half-elsewhere – almost certainly more than 9,500km away in Geneva, the second-largest city in Switzerland and – far more importantly – home to the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). An event that almost every true haute horologist across the world looks forward to, more than 20,000 of them make an annual pilgrimage to the Salon to see just what the world of watches has in store for the coming year…

As ever, the 2019 edition – the 29th iteration of the event – saw hundreds of dazzling dials, burnished bezels and marvellous movements all unveiled for the many keen acolytes of accurate timekeeping in attendance. While, in truth, every one was a wonder of watchmaking wizardry, seven superb, collector-friendly chronographs particularly stood out…

*Cartier Libre Collection Baignoire Allongée Black*

In a knowing nod to the rise of watch-minded women everywhere, Cartier opted to use the event as the launchpad for the latest additions to its Cartier Libre Collection. Multicoloured, multi-faceted and bejewelled to the hilt, each of these distinctly avant-garde timepieces was an apt celebration of the beauty of non-conformity, complete with a selection of unconventional bezels and dials that proved both sophisticated and playful.

Piaget, meanwhile, opted for a subtler approach, with its undeniably understated Piaget Altiplano – 36mm boasting a classic dark blue-white gold combination, while a selection of baguette-cut diamonds proved fine enhancements to its bezel and hour markers. With an ultrathin Calibre 430P movement as standard, this 36mm watch was made for the wrist of a truly femme fashionista.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel — *Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel*

Debonair gentlemen looking for a similarly uncluttered conceit were best steered towards Jaeger-LeCoultre’s elegant Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel. Once again, a blue-and-white gold colour scheme dominated, with the watch’s handcrafted guilloché blue enamel dial an apt showcase of the marque’s artisanal skills. Just over 10mm in depth, its crowning jewel is undoubtedly its reworked 6 o’clock moon-phase setting.

Another fine example of the ‘less is more’ conceit was Hermès’ Arceau 78. A model first made public in 1978, this latest incarnation features a fetchingly grained anthracite dial, intriguingly ringed by a matte beat-blasted bezel. In a break from tradition, its numeral hour markers are slightly italicised, giving the look of a horse at full gallop. Dubbed a Very Large Model (40mm) and fitted with natural Barénia calf straps, this is minimalism to the max.

*Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince” by IWC*

Moving to the somewhat sportier end of the spectrum, IWC had on offer a very special limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Created in collaboration with the estate of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (the author of The Little Prince), just 10 such items will be made. The product of a truly unique partnership, it is both the first pilot watch ever to feature a constant force tourbillon and the first to be fashioned from a special, ultraresistant red gold. In another plus, its perpetual moon phase complication won’t require any adjustment until at least 2595.

*Panerai Submersible Chrono – Guillaume Néry Edition*

Eschewing outer space for deep sea depths, Panerai introduced a timepiece co-authored with Guillaume Néry, the French free-diving champion – the Panerai Submersible Chrono – Guillaume Néry Edition. Combining performance, strength and reliability, its robust and waterproof titanium case, its unidirectional rotating bezel and its luminescent hour markers have all been designed with the safety of underwater explorers very much in mind.

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Camo” — *Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Camo”*

And finally, rounding out this year’s list of SIHH standouts were the latest additions to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore collection – the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Camo”. Of the three new versions, it is perhaps the company’s first-ever brownceramic chronogram that merits most approbation. Crafted in pink gold and mounted on caramel-and-brown camouflage rubber straps, an extra-large Mega Tapisserie chequerboard guillochéd dial completes this 44mm watch’s rugged appeal.

Once again, SIHH did not disappoint, allowing all attendees a tantalising glimpse of many of the latest trends in global haute horology. From marvellously minimalist designs to super-sporty standouts, from artisanal avant gardery to precision-built mechanical marvels, no technique lacked a true showpiece, no style was bereft of a standard-bearer and no complication was denied its day in the Swiss sunshine. And, take heart, the next SIHH showcase is now just over a year away.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Wrist Candy: Four fabulous watches that caught our eye at SIHH 2019

It’s no secret that the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch fair kicks off the watch industry’s annual calendar each year. Last month, the 29th iteration of the illustrious showcase kicked off in Geneva, with some of the world’s leading watchmakers unveiling some serious showstoppers in a bid to be the Brand with the Best Watch. From the hundreds of newly launched timepieces, here are four fabulous watches that particularly caught our eye at SIHH 2019.

SIHH 2019: Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night and Day Jewellery watch — *Jaeger-LeCoultre –* *Rendez-Vous* *Night and Day Jewellery*

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery

Watch-minded women were not left wanting at SIHH 2019, with a veritable slew of wrist candy designs up for grabs. Of these, perhaps Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery is worth a more serious look-see. Created with an eye-catching diamond-and-mother-of-pearl conceit, the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock further burnishes its sophisticated appeal. Fitted with an automatic movement, both pink and white gold models of this 36mm timepiece are equally chic – a fitting addition to the wrists of any femme fashionista.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Imperial Tiger

Long known for its dedication to precision handcraftsmanship and creative flair, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin did not disappoint at SIHH 2019. Several stunning one-of-a-kind additions to its Mécaniques Sauvages range were unveiled, each boasting a unique combination of wood marquetry and ‘bas-relief’ artisanal designs, paired enticingly with a majestic animal motif. Among these models, it was perhaps the Les Cabinotiers Imperial Tiger that truly stood out, with the eponymous golden tiger perched mid-prowl atop a rockface and surrounded by foliage.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur One-Off

Roger Dubuis, with its penchant for all things avant garde, pulled back the curtains on its all-new Excalibur One-Off. The latest instalment of its successful partnership with Italian motoring marque, Lamborghini, this sporty chronogram was inspired by the recently-launched Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar. Boasting clean lines, an aggressively-styled fascia and bezel in a bold red-black theme, the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the double flying tourbillon placed at 4 and 8 o’clock.

Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos

Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux, meanwhile, opted to look beyond terra firma to the cosmos as inspiration for its Bridges Cosmos. Heralded as being ‘a new dialogue between earth and sky’, this outré timepiece is aptly fitted with two globes – a miniature Earth and a micro star chart – that take centrestage on its generously spacious dial. If that weren’t enough, this all-encompassing creation also boasts a tourbillon and a second time zone indicator as well, a move sure to inspire interest from even the most discerning haute horlogerie enthusiast to peruse the veritable treasure trove of horological designs to bless SIHH 2019.

Astro-inspiring: Our top picks for luxury astrology accessories

Whether you’re truly invested in astrology or just appreciate its aesthetic value, it’s hard to resist the temptation of showing off your zodiac sign with a darling little accessory. And how could you refuse when the conversation and craze around sun signs is at its peak now, with the turn of the year leaving everyone wondering just what their stars have in store for them, come 2019! Indeed, the stars themselves seem aligned to the trend with many designers such as Chanel and Givenchy already embracing the star signs constellations and element characteristics to pattern their pretty pieces whether it be shoes, jewellery, or even candles.

Here at Gafencu we want to help you embrace your sun sign and show off to the world the persona it embodies. So whether you’re a fiery Leo who’s comfortable in the spotlight or a Virgo doing their best to stay fashionable and minimalist at once, we’ve got you covered with these dreamy statement pieces.

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Text: Bailey Atkinson