Spirits Away: With import duty cut, Hong Kong can now raise its glass as a major liquor hub

The Chief Executive’s Policy Address in October last year was undoubtedly met with gleeful downing of top-quality spirits in Hong Kong’s bars and restaurants as John Lee delivered welcome news to the liquor trade. In tax changes designed to bolster the industry in the face of stiff regional competition and falling local sales, the 100% duty rate for liquor with an import price of more than HK$200 was reduced to 10% for the portion above $200.

It was a move designed to boost not just the spirits trade, but also the development of associated sectors such as logistics and storage, tourism and high-end food and beverage consumption. There was a slight kicker to the euphoria, however, since the duty rate remained unchanged for the portion of $200 and below, as well as for liquor with a lower import price.

Whisky, brandy and other premium spirits constitute the bulk of Hong Kong’s imported liquor, representing about 98% of its total import value in the period from January to August 2024. Following the government’s reduction in the liquor levy, the average tax burden on these tipples is expected to decrease substantially – from just under 25% to more than 50% per litre, depending on the spirit you favour.

Grape success

This push to promote Hong Kong as a liquor distribution hub follows similar transformative tax breaks granted to the wine industry nearly two decades ago. In February 2007, wine taxes were cut by half, then completely removed the following year. Growth in the trade soared, and the city is now the world’s second biggest, and Asia’s most important, wine auction and distribution centre.

Auctioneer and wine specialist Robert Sleigh, then at Sotheby’s, recalls the amazing effect of the reduction and elimination of import tax on wine. “The wine market has never seen anything like it and probably never will again,” he says, describing Hong Kong’s spectacular rise to number-one market in the region within just 18 months. The local wine trade grew at an astonishing annual rate of 15.8% between 2008 and 2018, up from just 2.7% on average during the decade prior to the first duty tax cut in 2007. “Just the amount of stimulus that happened then – it was an extraordinary time,” he enthuses.

The elimination of wine taxes was perfectly timed, according to Sleigh. With the West still reeling from the 2007-2008 global financial crisis, coupled with the pent-up demand for Western luxury goods by Chinese consumers with huge disposable incomes, this “perfect storm” propelled Hong Kong into the wine hub of Asia.

Turning to liquor

The successful development of the Hong Kong wine sector was referenced in last year’s Policy Address as a template for elevating the territory into a major centre for liquor trade and distribution. Figures suggest the global spirits market is a bigger pie than the global wine market, with its sales of US$525 billion in 2023 exceeding those of wine by about 60%.

Furthermore, Asia has experienced rapid growth in its spirits market, which has ballooned by 79.3% in the decade leading to 2023, much faster than the 42% notched up globally. The rise of a youthful Asian population – 430 million people in the region were aged between 18 and 21 in 2021 – has played its part here, according to Hong Kong Trade and Development Council (HKTDC) analysis. The desire by young people to try new things, and their likelihood to turn to expensive wines and spirits as they become increasingly prosperous are factors here.

Another boon to the industry is that, post-Covid, leading international alcohol brands are keen to promote their wares in new markets eager to experiment and sample the finer things in life. With the growth of global communications and logistics services, selling traditional liquors overseas through channels such as online shopping is far easier than before. The global spirits market is set to soar from US$525 billion in 2023 to US$630 billion in 2027, according to market and consumer data provider Statista.

Tax deterrents

This is an encouraging backdrop for Hong Kong’s liquor importers to operate within, yet local growth in the spirits trade has been far slower than that of wine, and it remains smaller in value, totalling HK$9.9 billion in 2018 compared to wine sales of HK$15.3 billion. Many analysts have attributed this to the 100% spirits tax that was previously in force. The levy pushed up trading and administration costs here when compared with liquor hubs with less burdensome spirits taxes like Singapore.

The HKTDC also believes the high spirits tax discouraged industry players from organising and participating in trade fairs in Hong Kong, where tax and warehousing costs for on-site tastings were deemed too prohibitive.

Last October’s reduction in the high-end duty rate will significantly lower operating expenses of traders in Hong Kong, with tax-burden savings per litre estimated at 53.1% for brandy, 24.8% for whisky and 37.8% for other spirits.

Time will tell

Keith Archer, International Private Sales Director at Seeking Infinity, an investment consultancy specialising in the likes of whisky casks and art, believes a reduction in liquor taxes in Hong Kong was inevitable, given the current downturn in the retail market. A Hong Kong Bar & Club Association survey last year pointed to a significant drop in sales – a slowdown attributed to Hongkongers heading to mainland China during the holidays and the migration wave among wealthy consumers.

“It will be some time before we know how effective this new policy will be,” says Archer. “Many wholesalers still have inventory left over from before the tax reductions were put in place, and they will have to move this before offering the new tax discounts, so we don’t foresee much of an immediate effect on retail sales.”

In his view, a 100% reduction on liquor duty at all price points could spur a growth impetus similar to when wine tax was abolished in 2008. “As it stands, the current tax reduction only really benefits those consumers who prefer higher-value spirits,” he notes. Since imports costing HK$200 or less account for about 85% of spirits sales, “the effectiveness of these reduced taxes in encouraging greater consumption in the Hong Kong market is put into perspective”.

International thirst

Despite this, Archer remains positive that the development could revitalise the liquor trade in Hong Kong by attracting more consumers, enhancing brand visibility and fostering innovation. “Its success will depend on addressing logistical challenges, promoting responsible consumption and ensuring a supportive regulatory environment,” he adds. “What Hong Kong truly needs is an influx of overseas buyers and consumers to pick up the current market declines.” Indeed, data suggests that much of local spirits sales slips down the throats of visitors.

He also sees the recent reduction in liquor taxes as a win for local collectors of single malt whisky since rarer vintages can enter Hong Kong at a comparatively lower cost.

Raising a glass to China

Ultimately, Hong Kong has huge potential to become a major liquor hub. Importers could take advantage of enormous opportunities to deliver premium spirits into the mainland, and enjoy enhanced tax rates via cross-border e-commerce. Hong Kong could also become a base for showcasing China’s high-quality spirits, such as the valuable baijiu pours of Maotai and Wuliangye, to the world.

Archer urges the government to go the whole hog and completely abolish spirits taxes. He says: “If they were to give a full 100% tax reduction in the future as they have done for wine, this would have a big impact on spirits sales and make Hong Kong a much more attractive destination for liquor lovers than it already is.”

Espresso Excellence: CEO Enzo Cheng pours a double shot of passion into his empowering leadership of NOC Coffee Co.

On a dynamic Friday night in Central, working millennials might find themselves immersed in the pulsating beats of a DJ set, where the man behind the turntables is none other than Enzo Cheng, the young and charismatic CEO of NOC Coffee Co. As the crowd sways to his music and cheers his name, he shares the arena with his friend, an up-and-coming local DJ.

It is hard to imagine that come Monday, this same individual is quietly overseeing operations in his naturally well-lit office space at NOC’s Tseung Kwan O branch, one of the popular coffeehouse chain’s 15 outlets across the city. Comfortably ensconced within the brand’s signature minimalist and clean aesthetics, he savours his favourite salmon taglionlini before diving into the day’s challenges.

“I haven’t worn a suit in ages,” chuckles Cheng, reflecting on his sleeves up, hands-on leadership style that contrasts sharply with the traditional image of a corporate CEO. This relaxed demeanour seems fundamental in his approach to both music and business – a blend of creativity and strategic vision that has propelled NOC into the spotlight. The nifty acronym, for the non-caffeine-inclined, stands for ‘Not Only Coffee’.

Seeds of ambition

Growing up in the vibrant yet fiercely competitive landscape of Hong Kong, Cheng’s early experiences shaped his vision of what a successful business could be. “World-class businesses don’t have to be the loudest,” he remarks. “But they have to find their value in this noisy marketplace. The everchanging dynamic and brutal honesty of Hong Kong’s market force businesses to be on their A-game at all times, helping me redefine what a world-class business should look like every day.” This understanding of clarity and competition permeates his leadership at NOC.

One of the pivotal moments in his childhood was a school project where he built a pinhole camera. “Designing and assembling something functional from scratch was incredibly rewarding,” he recalls. This early foray into technology sparked his interest in business and innovation, leading him to explore one of his first business case study of Kodak and its rise and fall.

Cheng’s entrepreneurial spirit was further nurtured by his family ¬– his father and cousin are successful entrepreneurs who encouraged him to pursue bold aspirations. “They challenged me to find solutions rather than quit,” he shares, crediting them as indispensable influences in his career.

From banking to brews

His journey took an unexpected turn when he transitioned from a promising career in investment banking to co-leading Coding Rooms, a SaaS (software as a service) company. “Entrepreneurship has always been part of my vision,” he explains, emphasising how his experiences with high-profile executives ignited a passion for operational roles.

“Investment banking taught me many transferable skills,” he notes, listing critical thinking, empathy and the ability to simplify complex problems as key tools he brought to NOC upon joining a year ago. He has transformed the high-pressure lessons of banking into a strategic approach that embraces discomfort and innovation.

Ways & beans

So what sets NOC Coffee apart in the crowded café market? According to Cheng, who had just embarked on a business degree at the University of Michigan when the brand was born, it’s their commitment to being the most recognised neighbourhood coffeehouse. “We focus on maintaining high standards of customer care and product quality,” he states. This dedication ensures that every outlet embodies the same spirit and reliability, avoiding the pitfalls of either scaling up too quickly or remaining too small.

Angelled by Hong Kong-based venture fund, KD Capital, it’s a proudly local brand, as the CEO emphasises while gesturing an air-quote on the importance of embodying the “Hong Kong spirit”, a resilient and innovative mindset. “We aim to redefine lifestyle cafés,” he explains, with plans to expand internationally while maintaining the essence of what makes NOC special.

Percolating innovation

As technology continues to evolve, Cheng is keen to leverage cutting-edge advancements within the coffee industry. “From bean sourcing to espresso machines, technology plays a critical role,” he says, envisioning a future where AI and big data can enhance consistency across multiple locations.

This forward-thinking approach is not just about efficiency; it’s about enhancing the customer experience. “If we can standardise quality while maintaining the unique touch of each barista, we’ll create a better product for everyone,” he says, hinting at exciting developments on the horizon. “I can’t say much now, but it’s going to happen soon.”

For Cheng, success is defined by providing unparalleled value. “We constantly ask how we can do more with less,” he shares, highlighting a philosophy that drives decision-making at NOC. His vision for the company includes purposeful expansion and continuous innovation, ensuring that quality and service remain at the forefront.

Cup of life

There’s a growing trend among young professionals to balance ambition with personal fulfilment – unheard of in previous working generations but crucial to Cheng’s modern brand of leadership. “Happiness comes from the people I work with and the progress we make together,” he states, underscoring the importance of team culture in fostering a positive work environment. Ultimately, it’s this blend of camaraderie and ambition that fuels his drive.

With a busy schedule that balances the demands of running a growing business, he makes it a point to prioritise health and wellbeing. “Finding time to exercise and reconnect with family is essential,” he remarks, underscoring the need for balance amid a bustling lifestyle.

The day after our interview, Cheng flew to New Zealand and Shanghai with family to attend coffee fairs and visit cafes around the world – a testament to his belief that life and work can coexist. Living is about finding work in life and also life in work,” he affirms.

Drinking out of the box

As he looks to the future, his advice for aspiring entrepreneurs in Hong Kong is clear: “Challenge the status quo. Don’t box yourself in.” He believes that resilience and a willingness to adapt are vital in today’s ever-changing market.

Much like a well-brewed cup of coffee, Enzo Cheng’s journey is about finding purpose and joy in everyday moments. As he continues to lead NOC towards new horizons, his story serves as a reminder that success is best enjoyed when shared with others, and that every day offers a new reason to wake up with enthusiasm.

Switching into reflective mode, the youthful CEO is quick to acknowledge the lessons learned and the importance of seeking diverse perspectives. Recognising the value of listening to the experiences of others, he laughs: “I wish I had more coffee chats!”

Photographer: Jack Law   Videographer: Jack Fontanilla  

What’s on? Things to do this January in Hong Kong

January sees a slew of great things to enjoy, including the world’s largest bounce house, a fantastic tennis tournament, arts festivals, great theatre and activities to celebrate Chinese New Year.

The Big Bounce

Billed as the world’s largest bounce house, this feast of inflatable entertainment represents a not-to-be-missed opportunity for all the family to get together and have unbridled fun. Have a go on bouncy castles of all shapes and sizes, and an assortment of fantastic and slightly surreal inflatables specifically designed for all age groups. For the over 16s who are young at heart, there’s an after-dark party where you can bounce to the cool sounds of live DJs. Featuring unique custom-made giant inflatables, basketball hoops and massive ball pits, this bounce party will create memories to last a lifetime.

When: Until 5 Jan

Where: Great Lawn, West Kowloon Art Park

How much: From $179

For more information: thebigbounceasia.com

HKZMB Half Marathon

Runners from around the world will converge on the city once again for a unique sporting contest, a half marathon spanning the Hong Kong section of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge. Held for the first time in 2023, this 21-kilometre World Athletics Gold Label Road Race will attract 8,000 participants in various age-range categories, from juniors over 16 to those aged 70 or above. The views along this stretch of the 55km bridge will be breathtaking.

When: 5 Jan

Where: Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge Hong Kong Link Road, Lantau Island

How much: From $550 (local runners)

For more information: hzmb-halfmarathon.com

Cigarettes After Sex

The popular indie group lands in Hong Kong for a concert to promote their new album X’s, which was launched in the middle of last year. Such was the demand from the city’s music lovers to see the talented trio from Texas perform that the local promoter, Clockenflap Presents, extended the seating capacity at the venue. Cigarettes After Sex has gained a reputation for its dream-like musical style, romantic lyrics and the androgenous quality of founder Greg Gonzalez’s vocals. 

When: 9 Jan

Where: Hall 5, AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok

How much: From $590

For more information: clockenflap.kktix.cc

Inclusive Tea House

Immerse yourself in traditional Chinese culture for the afternoon as the Tea House Rising Stars Troupe presents a special inclusive performance of their delightful xiqu recital, with tea and dim sum served in the midst of the show. Before the Cantonese opera begins, a ‘Touch Tour’ will enable audience members to caress the colourful costumes and musical instruments used by the cast.

When: 10-11 Jan

Where: Tea House Theatre, Xiqu Centre, West Kowloon

How much: Free (prior booking required)

For more information: westk.hk

The Top Restaurant

Following its award-winning Hong Kong Repertory Theatre run in 2022, this epic tale of ups and downs and business squabbles in a renowned Beijing duck restaurant returns for another spicy dramatic feast. Penned by He Jiping and first performed in the Chinese capital in 1988, The Top Restaurant has wowed live audiences in Europe and the US as well as Asia, and its TV adaptation has captivated millions and created fandom

When: 18-26 Jan

Where: Hong Kong Cultural Centre Grand Theatre, Tsim Sha Tsui

How much: From $200

For more information: hkrep.com

Night Parade

Soak up the carnival atmosphere on the first day of the Lunar New Year, as a seemingly never-ending line of amazing floats and swaying dancers winds its way through the thronging streets of Tsim Sha Tsui. This joyous carnival parade is one of Hong Kong’s star attractions during the holiday, always creating a party atmosphere among onlookers bedazzled by the colourful spectacle put on by an eclectic mix of multicultural performers.

When: 29 Jan

Where: Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

How much: Free

For more information: discoverhongkong.com 

Chinese New Year Raceday

Enjoy the thrills and spills of the Sha Tin Races on the third day of the Chinese New Year, and why not see if your luck is in and place a bet on the beautiful beast of your choice? As one of the most important days in the race calendar, the event is guaranteed to raise the spirits, and it would mark an auspicious start to the Year of the Snake for money winners! Keeping the mood on an intoxicating high will be musical performances, lion dances and festive flowers.

When: 31 Jan

Where: Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin, New Territories

How much: Entrance fee

For more information: hkjc.com

Hong Kong Tennis Open

Take the chance to admire the deft racquet skills and athletic prowess of some of the top players in elite men’s tennis at this tournament sponsored by Bank of China. The competitive action is sure to be of the highest order, with last year’s winner Andrey Rublev scheduled to defend his hard-fought title. Seven days of competitive action at the ATP 250 event will feature many top-ranked stars.

When: Until 5 Jan

Where: Victoria Park Tennis Centre, Causeway Bay

How much: From $270

For more information: hkmenstennisopen.com

Sai Kung Hoi Arts Festival

Catch the final events of this two-month-long festival showcasing local culture, arts, cuisine and ecology in Sai Kung town, High Island, Sharp Island, Kau Sai Chau and Yim Tin Tsai. Why not savour the islands craft non-alcoholic cocktail workshop? This two-hour immersive experience is designed to promote a healthy lifestyle, creating drinks that chime with the flavours of Sai Kung Hoi.

When: Until 12 Jan

Where: Various venues

How much: Various prices

For more information: skhartsfestival.hk

Moving Targets: Upping the drive for quality migrants is right on cue to ensure our world-city status

Hong Kong undoubtedly potted a maximum break when snooker great Ronnie O’Sullivan was lured to these shores under the Quality Migrant Admission Scheme. Having the English professional declare himself a Hong Kong resident, heralding its many charms and advantages, was a major coup for a city which has undergone difficult times of late.

It appears the love affair is mutual, with Secretary for Labour and Welfare Chris Sun Yuk-han offering words of admiration for the seven-time world champion who was attracted by Hong Kong’s lifestyle, closeness to the mainland and low taxes. His arrival is part of a drive by the government to entice people with the skills and talents – and in some cases capital – urgently required by the city. A slew of new initiatives is aiming to bring in these exceptional human resources.

“Seeing a global sports star like O’Sullivan here not only delights fans but also highlights Hong Kong’s reputation as a world stage, capable of hosting and appreciating excellence in all forms,” says Juan Pierre Dorfling, Gough Recruitment’s Managing Director for Asia.

Hong Kong’s most wanted

Dorfling believes O’Sullivan’s residency sets a perfect example for talented individuals around the globe, no matter their field, to envisage Hong Kong as a place where they can shine. These kinds of subliminal messages are important for anyone involved in inducing holders of sought-after skills to settle in the city since the demand for such people seems only set to rise.

Deutsche Bank recently stressed the pressing need for an influx of talent as the financial market picks up and cross-border activity accelerates, and a CPA Australia survey last autumn indicated 63 per cent of executives, accountants and finance professionals expected growth in their companies over the coming year. “Broadly speaking, demand is surging for professionals with expertise in cutting-edge technology, sustainable finance, wealth management and advanced healthcare services,” says Dorfling.

Hong Kong’s aspirations to be Asia’s leading fintech hub will require not only top-notch software developers and data scientists but also professionals versed in compliance, cybersecurity and global regulatory frameworks, Dorfling indicates. “The burgeoning green finance sector is another [in need of talent]. Hong Kong’s position as a major capital market is driving demand for people who can structure green bonds, advise on ESG investing, and navigate complex carbon-trading mechanisms,” he adds.

The recruitment expert says there is an urgent need for talent that can connect local enterprise with international standards of excellence in these rapidly evolving fields. International lawyers, accountants and corporate strategists who understand both Asia-Pacific market dynamics and global best practices are also crucial.

Ultimately, steady inflows of world-class banking and finance professionals will be required to maintain Hong Kong’s position as a world-class finance centre. These include individuals who can navigate the complexities of mainland China’s markets, spearhead sophisticated investment strategies, and handle cross-border transactions with agility and compliance.

Thinning pipeline

Despite this undoubted demand, there remains a significant shortage of talent. According to the Hong Kong Institute of Human Resource Management, nearly 70 per cent of employers have reported difficulties filling specialised roles, particularly in emerging technology and professional services. Over the past few years, various international reports and corporate surveys have indicated a thinning pipeline of talent in Asia’s major financial hubs.

“Hong Kong, despite its many advantages, hasn’t been immune,” says Dorfling, indicating there is a mismatch between current skill sets in the city and the capabilities the market requires to remain globally competitive. “This shortage isn’t crippling, but it’s definitely a headwind – one that Hong Kong needs to address proactively to maintain its leadership status.”

He notes that better training of local professionals in areas such as programming languages used in algorithmic trading, or leveraging artificial intelligence to improve investment strategies, could help plug the gap. Another area of concern is locating digital marketing experts who can fuse analytics with creative strategies to target China’s evolving consumer base.

Perception problem

One talented finance professional who has taken the plunge to settle in Hong Kong is Harry Bethwaite, an Investment Associate at Capital Union Investments. The Australian, a frequent traveller to the SAR for a decade, made his stay permanent in 2023 when a career opportunity arose. “Hong Kong provides a great lifestyle, easy access to the rest of Asia, competitive tax rates and an incredible blend of East-meets-West culture,” he says. “Singapore offers this to a certain degree and is catching up in many senses, but still isn’t quite to the [same] level.”

Though Bethwaite elected Hong Kong over Singapore, he does concede that it has issues to overcome, in particular negative perception overseas. “I think Hong Kong currently has a marketing issue. I vividly remember reading an article before arriving in Hong Kong with the headline ‘The expat exodus,’” he recalls.

Reading about thousands of expatriates who had left Hong Kong due to their experiences during the pandemic and their uncertainty about the changing landscape did prompt some initial misgivings about his decision to move here. “You rarely see any positive news abroad about Hong Kong, and without it, it’s genuinely hard to envision how life is here on a day-to-day basis or the benefits of the city,” he says.

According to Bethwaite, a common error made when weighing up the merits of a potential home is to judge it on a standalone basis rather than in comparison with other locales. “From my perspective when I decided to move to Hong Kong, I thought the benefits Asia offers in terms of growth opportunities, culture, cost of living and safety outweigh the likes of London and New York,” he explains.

Improving liveability

Other professionals may be deterred by the high cost of housing or the intense work culture. Political commentator Alice Wu recently opined that the government should offer greater support to new arrivals in its attempts to plug the brain drain.

“Hong Kong’s government and business community are acutely aware of these issues and are actively working to address them ¬– through housing initiatives, improving the liveability quotient, and reinforcing Hong Kong’s position as a stable, globally connected city,” says Dorfling, who foresees a renewed interest in professionals relocating to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong’s leadership is actively implementing programmes and policies – such as the Top Talent Pass Scheme and enhanced visa policies – to simplify the relocation process.

Diversity necessity

For Dorfling, the stakes are high – and multi-faceted – for Hong Kong’s future as a thriving and diverse international city. “Hong Kong’s capacity to attract and retain top talent isn’t just an economic imperative – it’s also a cultural one,” he states. “By drawing in professionals from all corners of the globe, Hong Kong enriches its cultural tapestry, keeps its business environment fertile, and positions itself as a catalyst for cross-pollination of ideas.”

Overseas talent serves to maintain and strengthen Hong Kong’s unique position in the world economy and bolster its standing as a truly international city – “one that can meet the evolving demands of an increasingly knowledge-based economy while offering a cosmopolitan lifestyle that reflects its East-meets-West heritage,” he says.

Gems of Resilience: Gübelin’s Director Asia Winnie Chan talks clarity, carat, charity and Sex and the City

It was a delay worth the wait. When our scheduled interview with Winnie Chan, the illustrious Director Asia of Gübelin Jewellery, had to be postponed due to her bout with Covid, we were left momentarily rattled. However, our prospective cover personality’s perspective on the situation sparkled with resilience. “I must admit Covid these days doesn’t bother me anymore,” says Chan, reflecting on the shared experience that has shaped many lives. “Gübelin has been hit hard by it too since the peak, but thankfully, especially due to my team and the people who continually support us, the collective effort is still there. Nothing is impossible if we really work together for the better.”

This battle against the pandemic only seems to have strengthened her resolve, echoing the tenacity that marks her leadership in one of the world’s most prestigious jewellery houses. Chan’s journey may be adorned with challenges, but like the exquisite gems she curates, it’s also filled with brilliance, and more brilliance.

Spark of Passion

Winnie Chan’s journey began in Hong Kong, but her upbringing took her across the Pacific to Hawaii and California. Her father, garment manufacturer Star Chan, would “conduct market research through shopping” and this early exposure to the world of fashion ignited her passion for aesthetics. Her mother’s love of jewellery further deepened this fascination. “She would frequently visit different jewellery and I’d come along. This constant exposure nurtured my love for the finer things in life,” she reflects.

Her upbringing instilled an ideology that intertwines luxury with a sense of purpose. “My philosophy is to live and enjoy my life to the fullest in line with God’s plan,” she explains. With such a foundation, it is no surprise that Chan has dedicated her career to luxury, from fashion to high jewellery.

A degree in business administration with a focus on marketing from Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles – a choice guided by her father’s desire for quality education and a solid path for his only daughter – equipped her with invaluable skills. “Throughout my experience representing luxury brands, I learned that it is crucial to use different marketing approaches to appeal to the targeted audience,” she says. This understanding of market dynamics has proven essential; she previously spent eight years as General Manager of watchmaker Roger Dubuis in Hong Kong, and now oversees Gübelin’s operations in the vibrant South East Asia market.Her pivotal career moment came in 2012 when the Gübelin family approached her to establish their first retail presence in Asia. “Oh my gosh, yes! Building the Gübelin Hong Kong Salon in 2013 was a significant step,” she exclaims.

Bezels of Success

What draws her to Gübelin is its unique position in the luxury market – the Swiss house, which began in 1854 as a Lucerne watchmaker, became a leader in gemmology, renowned for its authenticity and expertise. “Gübelin jewellery sources only the rarest and highest quality gemstones, accompanied by our Gemmological Reports [issued by the Gübelin Gem Lab],” she explains. This commitment to excellence stems from a 170-year heritage founded on the values of authenticity, expertise and inspiration. She believes that Gübelin differentiates itself through its family ownership, innovative spirit and holistic gem expertise. “No other house has a renowned gem lab, which sets us apart,” she asserts with a mindful smile.

Chan’s responsibilities extend beyond retail; she also leads the Gübelin Academy in Hong Kong, sharing knowledge of coloured gemstones. She comes armed with GIA certificates for Diamond and Coloured Stone Essentials and extensive training at the Gübelin Academy in Lucerne. “The academy allows me to improve my knowledge in gemmology continuously,” she says, underscoring her commitment to education and community engagement.

In an industry known for its challenges, she identifies sourcing high-quality coloured gems as a significant hurdle. “People want to know where the stones come from,” she notes, referencing Gübelin’s pioneering Provenance Proof initiative that enhances traceability in the gemstone market. The demand for bespoke services is also rising as clients seek emotional connections to their jewels.

Dazzling Retail Landscape

With changing consumer preferences, especially in Asia, Gübelin has adapted its strategies. “Consumers now want experiences, not just products,” she explains. This shift has led to innovations like the Gübelin Museum in Lucerne, where visitors can learn the history and artistry of coloured gemstones. Locally, they conduct ‘Gem Bite’ sessions to share quick insights about gems, fostering a deeper appreciation.

Chan reflects the ethos of Gübelin in her personal life. “Dr Eduard Josef Gübelin once said that the shapes, colours and light within gemstones create optical realities,” she shares, illustrating her belief in the intersection of beauty and knowledge. She strives to contribute to society using her unique talents, paralleling the company’s dedication to craftsmanship and education.

As a frequent traveller, she draws inspiration from different cultures to ensure Gübelin meets the diverse tastes of its clientele. “Europeans often prefer high-quality, classic designs, while Asians lean towards vibrant colours and striking elements,” she observes. This cultural insight informs her approach to customer engagement. At Gübelin, the philosophy “deeply inspired” is imbued with profound meaning. “Real beauty lies not just on the surface; it also stems from understanding and appreciating its qualities – both external and internal,” she explains of an ethos that permeates all aspects of the brand’s operations.

She believes that true luxury transcends mere possession; it is about understanding the essence of the items one holds dear. With this tenet, she leads the way, ensuring that each piece of jewellery is not only stunning but tells a compelling story, weaving through the threads of its origin and craftsmanship.

A Lifestyle Embellished

Following in her own family’s footsteps, Chan is actively involved with Yan Chai Hospital – Chan lu Seng Primary School. Her father is a former Chairman of the charitable hospital and she has participated in fundraising efforts and served on the School Management Committee. “I saw real needs there, and it moved me to contribute,” she says, espousing that luxury brands can enrich their communities by fostering cultural appreciation and education, and empowering individuals through knowledge.

She cannot be pigeonholed merely as a business leader; she is also a fashion aficionado who embodies the essence of luxury she promotes at Gübelin. As a lover of glitzy shoes and sophisticated attire, she curates her own wardrobe from high-end brands, as seen when we choose from the array of clothes and shoes laid out on her office conference table for the shoot.

Also resonating with pop culture, she is a fan of the celebrated TV series Sex and the City. “I relate to those characters; they represent powerful women adept at navigating life’s complexities, all while maintaining style and grace,” she articulates. Drawing parallels between herself and such fictional icons, she demonstrates how she balances glamour with substantive leadership in the luxury space.

Future Full of Sparkle

As Wu-Tang Clan would say, “Protect Ya Neck” – and that’s precisely what Chan aims to do with Gübelin over the coming years. Envisioning a bright future for the brand in Greater China, her aspirations include “promoting high industry education standards through the Gübelin Academy, focusing on enriching learning experiences for aspiring professionals, and deepening our brand identity”. She also emphasises the importance of customer engagement and innovative retail experiences, believing that personal interactions and exclusivity will forge lasting connections with the region’s jewellery big spenders.

The luxury-sector expert envisions a future where women in leadership positions will grow exponentially. “Women are often detail-oriented and sensitive to customer preferences. I believe they will have an increasingly vital role in the industry,” she remarks.

In Winnie Chan, we find a radiant example of resilience, passion and dedication – a true gem in the world of luxury jewellery. In her world, every gemstone is a narrative, every piece of jewellery reflects a journey and every challenge faced can ultimately lead to resplendent triumphs. In the luxurious realm of jewellery, she doesn’t merely function – she shines.

Photographer: Jack Law|Videographer: Jack Fontanilla 

Clarence De Lune: A new Michelin-starred chef lights up fresh French dining amid dazzling night views

Clarence has become a new culinary beacon under the guidance of Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt, a fresh arrival from acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in France. As he unveils his inaugural dinner menu, the excitement is palpable. DeSchmitt seems utterly thrilled to dive into the vibrant melting pot that is Hong Kong. “My journey in Asia is not just a professional shift; it’s about rediscovering my love for food through fresh perspectives,” he shares.

With chic décor combined with 25th-floor views that dazzle over bustling streets, the atmosphere removes any notion of pretentiousness while maintaining a refined aura. “It’s essential to create a space that feels both inviting and sophisticated,” notes the chef. And this restaurant achieves just that.

Dinner opens with the beef tartare served in bone marrow topped with a side of baguette toast. This dish is a jazz concert of textures and flavours, where the robust richness of the marrow encounters the delicate nuances of tender raw beef, all while a crispy crostini adds a relay of crunch. Schmitt remarks: “I wanted to modernise classic dishes. This tartare honours French traditions but introduces different textures for a surprising and fresh experience.”

Should you be seeking meat-less delight, look no further than beetroot and fresh goat cheese ravioli, a play of sweetness enveloped in divine pasta. The accompanying beetroot juice lends a colourful vibrance while ginger and lime pull everything into balance, revealing a dish that is as beautiful as it is delicious. Schmitt’s personal favourites infiltrate the menu; this ravioli harkens back to his admiration for artisanal goat’s cheese discovered in the South of France.

For those who find joy in the ocean’s gifts, smoked salmon with potato waffle dances over the palate, and BBQ octopus with potato foam delivers succulent tenderness that imparts warmth and satisfaction without crossing into heaviness. Clarence encourages patrons to embrace the camaraderie of shared dining; each dish has been crafted not only to tantalise the senses but also to foster moments of togetherness – the intent is for diners to savour flavours while creating memories alongside family and friends.

Transitioning into mains, beef fillet and foie gras pithivier stands as a beacon of indulgence. The dish teams luxurious beef and foie gras encased in flaky pastry with a truffle vinaigrette salad. It’s a decadent juxtaposition of textures designed to transcend through freshness. Schmitt reflects on this creation, noting the artistry of the pastry craft: “Each element must blend into a harmonious experience.”

Seafood aficionados will rejoice in skate wing cooked on the bone, where brown butter and spices add a depth that feels comforting. Paired with an endive and Comté salad, the freshness of the greens cuts through the richness of the fish – a perfect dance of flavours with each bite yielding a new sensory revelation.

End your meal with the chef’s playful take on dessert. Croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream steals the show, marrying the crispy delights of croissant-cum-waffle into one daring vessel of sweetness. And if your heart longs for warmth, hot chocolate moelleux, with its molten chocolate centre served with sumptuous ice cream, promises sweet surrender.

Beyond the dishes lies a dining philosophy that emphasises seasonality and local ingredients, and Schmitt passionately invokes the necessity of this connection. The use of Japanese sea urchin, for instance, reflects his adaptability to local produce while maintaining the finesse of his French roots. “This balance highlights how local Asian ingredients can reinvent classic dishes,” he explains.

Clarence’s carefully curated and affordably priced dinner menu offers an exceptional experience, reinforcing the new chef’s vision of a dining journey where every detail has been examined.

True enough, Clarence is a testament to the magic unleashed when French tradition interlaces with the vibrant essence of Asia. Bon appétit!

Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong

 Photos: Clarence   Video: Jack Fontanilla  

What’s on? Things to do this December in Hong Kong

December brings many festive treats, none more so than a ballet performance of The Nutcracker and other great theatrical productions, plus great concerts, film and photo festivals and more besides! 

The Nutcracker

Performances by Hong Kong Ballet are always a delight to behold, and none more so than the Christmas special performance of The Nutcracker. Majestic dancers dressed in eye-catching costumes will take the audience on a journey tinged with a distinctly Hong Kong theme, choreographed by Artistic Director Septime Webre to the backdrop of live music penned by Tchaikovsky. Expect to encounter bauhinias, dim sum, jockeys and so much more on this magical quest within the snowy bamboo forest. There are also talks, workshops and the chance to meet and greet the characters.

When: 13 Dec-15 Dec, 17-22, 24-26 Dec

Where: Cultural Centre Grand Theatre

How much: From $220

For more information: hkballet.com

Business of Design Week

Never failing to attract some of the finest designers and entrepreneurs locally and internationally, BODW has gained a reputation as one of Hong Kong’s pre-eminent mega events. The annual six-day gathering takes the intersection of design, artistry and innovation as its theme, and France as its partner country. Displays, speeches, panel discussions cover five key topics: urban futures, brands and retail resurgence, craftsmanship and material mastery, culture and digital aesthetics, and AI and future tech.

When: 2-7 Dec

Where: Convention and Exhibition Centre

How much: From $680

For more information: bodw.com

Hong Kong Squash Open

Take the opportunity to see some of the world’s best squash players pit their wits and athletic prowess against each other at this platinum event on the Professional Squash Association World Tour. The Hong Kong skyline will add extra sparkle to a sporting display of the highest order when the competition moves to a glass court at Edinburgh Place in Central at the quarter-final stage. Hong Kong’s top male and female players will perform in front of a home crowd. 

When: 2-8 Dec

Where: Hong Kong Squash Centre and Edinburgh Place

How much: From $120

For more information: hksquashopen.com

Redball Hong Kong

Running in conjunction with Business of Design Week is RedBall Hong Kong, a community celebration of what is considered to be the world’s longest-running street artwork. The RedBall Project by American artist Kurt Perschke has been touring the world since 2001, and during this Hong Kong residence it will relocate to various sites around the city, prompting onlookers to view familiar locations from a different perspective.

When: 6-15 Dec

Where: Various locations

How much: Free

For more information: redballproject.com

The Absolute Task

The six-month extravaganza that is Great Music 2024 comes to a sumptuous finale in November, with two recitals by Krystian Zimerman among the concluding highlights. The Pole has performed wih the world’s leading orchestras and is considered to be one of the greatest pianists of his generation. His masterly fingers will perform two slightly different concerts, where he will delight audiences with works by Chopin and Szymanowski.

When: 7-15 Dec

Where: City Hall Theatre

How much: From $200

For more information: hkrep.com

James Blunt in Concert

The hugely successful English singer-songwriter artist finally reaches Hong Kong as part of the Who We Used To Be tour showcasing his latest album. The former British Army officer has developed a legion of devoted followers since the release of his hit song, You’re Beautiful, two decades ago and the subsequent plethora of outstanding musical output covering a variety of genres. Blunt is a winner of numerous prestigious awards.

When: 12 Dec

Where: Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo

How much: From $980

For more information: jamesblunt.com

Hong Kong International Photo Festival

Immerse yourself in the visual treat of this amazing feast of photography and its fantastic range of images. This year the festival – first presented in 2010 – features a flagship exhibition under the theme of Mega Family: Imagining Home. Fifteen Hong Kong photographers were commissioned to cast their lens on local culture in all its manifestations linked to home and the family. Visitors are expected to find multiple connections with their own experiences.

When: Until 8 Dec

Where: Arts Centre

How much: Free

For more information: hkipf.org.hk

Hong Kong French Film Festival

Enjoy the cinematic beauty of the French Film Festival as it celebrates its 53rd edition by showing more than 50 films. This magnificent film festival is the oldest in Hong Kong, commencing way back in 1953. This year’s movie crop includes a compelling mix of new releases under the categories of Festival Exclusives and Hong Kong Premieres, Retrospective and On Design.

When: Until 10 Dec

Where: Various prices and venues

How much: Various prices and venues

For more information: hkfrenchfilmfestival.com

Freespace Dance 2024

Billed as an exploration of time and space through dance, this showcase encompasses a range of local and international dance artists who portray their chosen artform both imaginatively and creatively. Some performers – such as the Thai artist Kornkarn Rungsawang – will add a twist to their show via augmented reality. Meanwhile, Austrian choreographer Florentina Holzinger offers a mesmerising exploration of the female body.

When: Until 15 Dec

Where: Freespace, West Kowloon

How much: Various prices

For more information: westk.hk

Palate Playground: Modern Indian wonderland Leela is joyfully rooted in the flavours of a vast culinary heritage 

The name Leela stems from the Hindu concept of ‘divine play’, and what better way to embody that than with a menu that dances between the ancient and the avant-garde? Chef Manav Tuli, an Indian gastronomy virtuoso, helms the kitchen with infectious passion and an innovative approach to traditional recipes. Each dish is a vibrant palette of colours and spices, telling its own story while being anchored in India’s rich culinary heritage.

As the seasons change, so too does the menu, unveiling a slew of new creations crafted to tantalise the taste buds while paying homage to regional Indian inspirations. One standout is jackfruit and soya keema dabeli, an imaginative reinterpretation of a beloved street food from Gujarat that, with its tangy tamarind chutney and luscious caramelised onions, conjures the all-consuming sensation of strolling through the bustling markets of India.

“My approach has always been to present food authentically while incorporating Ayurvedic principles and local ingredients,” explains Chef Tuli. “I believe in preserving the soul of Indian cuisine by honouring our roots while giving individual ingredients the attention they deserve through optimal cooking methods. This process is ever-evolving and represents an exciting journey for any chef.”

A collaboration between Tuli – formerly of Chaat – and Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, Leela opened late last year and already has awards in the bag, including the prestigious Michelin Recommended Restaurant accolade. The modern Indian oasis is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for foodies and culture-seekers alike.

If it’s culinary nostalgia you crave, look no further than the chef’s chicken tikka kulcha. This delightful dish fuses juicy grilled chicken with pillowy Indian flatbread, accompanied by marinated onions and an animated mint and tomato chutney. Chicken tikka mirza hasnu pays tribute to the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah, inviting anyone to savour char-grilled chicken infused with a symphony of spices such as cloves, cardamom and smoky mango powder.

For seafood enthusiasts, tandoori squid emerges as a masterpiece, showcasing tandoor-charred U3 squid marinated in Kashmiri chilli. And if anyone considers lamb a monotonous affair, they’ll have to think again. Kandhari lamb chop morphs into a succulent delight with ginger juice and pomegranate marrying the rich flavours of Afghanistan’s Kandahar region.

Diners can also indulge in duck jardaloo, a Parsi classic reimagined with duck breast, soaked in the divine sweetness of dried apricots, or savour the communal spirit of the chaat platter, a delicious array of tangy Indian snacks that traces its roots back to the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. But beyond just tantalising flavours, it champions sustainability. Chef Tuli ensures that the ingredients are local and fresh, embodying the ethos of using seasonal produce to minimise environmental impact while delivering peak flavour. Lotus root and edamame pulao is just one example of this commitment, using locally sourced ingredients like lotus and edamame in a refreshing medley that speaks both to the land and the palate.

“I aspire for guests to leave with a sense of discovery connected to Indian cuisine’s essence – experiencing its depth of flavours and cultural significance through each dish telling a story rooted in my culinary journey across India’s diverse traditions,” he notes. “Dining at Leela should be more than just a meal; it should be an exploration of Indian culinary heritage that fosters connection and curiosity about what Indian cuisine offers beyond typical expectations.”

The dining escapism at Leela is not just about feeding the body, but nourishing the spirit with each delightful bite. It’s more than a meal; it’s an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of Indian cuisine – a vibrant montage of spices, history and joy. Whether you’re a connoisseur of Indian flavours or a curious newcomer, the culinary playground at Leela promises to captivate your senses. Gather your friends and jump into this immersive Indian feast that celebrates food, culture and the art of communal dining like no other.

LEELA, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 

2024 Power List: The 300 Most Powerful People in Hong Kong

Unveiling the heartbeat of Hong Kong: Gafencu’s annual Power 300 list shines a spotlight on the titans shaping our skyline and our future. From influential business magnates to visionary social entrepreneurs, discover the extraordinary minds driving innovation and redefining success in a city of ambition. Who made it in this year’s list? Click here to explore the elite ensemble that makes Hong Kong thrive! 

Wine Chemistry: At ThinkWine, entrepreneurial oenophile [or epicurean] Romain Loriot uncorks elegance and joie de vivre 

Cellaring impressive bottlings from France as well as Australia, Italy, Spain, Germany and emerging wine nations like Lebanon, ThinkWine is more than just a wine bar; it’s a sojourn through the world’s vineyards. Romain Loriot, the visionary behind the venture, commits to procuring exciting offerings for the city’s wine connoisseurs to sip in an ambience that is second to none.

“The one problem I don’t experience anymore is fixing my hair,” says the debonair – and balding – French expatriate, poking fun at himself. “It’s a blessing and a curse at the same time.”

Loriot’s route to his vibrant/eclectic premises in Shelley Street, Central was shaped by his childhood experiences, culinary aspirations and passion for the nuances of the grape. He grew up in Montpellier, a city nestled in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region, known for its rich wine culture. However, his early life was steeped in music rather than vines.

“Coming from a musical family, I was always surrounded by classical pieces and French singers,” he recalls. Although he played the piano, he felt a different calling. Academic struggles led him to vocational school, where he initially aspired to be a chef.

Loriot’s parents, although not industry professionals, had instilled in him a love of fine dining. Their frequent visits to Michelin-starred restaurants provided invaluable gastronomic experiences. “Without their encouragement, I might not have pursued my education at food and beverage school,” he reflects.

While he was raised in a region renowned for the beauty of its vineyards, it was his family’s dining preferences that ignited his interest in wine. “My parents encouraged me to acquire a unique skill set that would set me apart [in the F&B field] – knowledge of wine,” he says.

This support was instrumental in shaping his career. After three years of studying food and beverage management, a further year specialising in wine at a school in Nîmes was a turning point. There, he unearthed not only a fervour for wine but a natural aptitude for its appreciation.

Creative Juices

In 2011, Loriot’s professional path began in earnest as he entered the intense world of fine dining. His early career was marked by stints at prestigious restaurants, including those by Alain Ducasse, where he honed his skills as a sommelier. His time at The Dorchester in London and later at Rech, in Paris and in Hong Kong, heightened his understanding of wine and food pairing.

One of his most memorable episodes in eight years as a sommelier was at Rech in Paris, whose “talented chef had a deep passion for wine”. This synergy culminated in a unique collaboration whereby Loriot’s wine choice inspired a new dish, showcasing the harmonious relationship between cuisine and wine.

As Head Sommelier at Rech, he managed teams, oversaw stock and crafted engaging lists that reflected his wine ethos. These roles deepened his knowledge and helped him grow as a leader in a dynamic environment. “Developing unique wine pairings became a key aspect of my role,” he notes of his constant mission to enhance guests’ dining experiences.

From Think to Drink

The idea for ThinkWine had been brewing long before its 2019 launch. Loriot landed in Hong Kong in 2016, and after two years at Rech (which was located in the InterContinental Hotel) he stepped up the service industry ladder to become Group Sommelier at a thriving restaurant group. But then, inspired by personal milestones – his marriage and the impending arrival of his child – he recognised the time had come to establish a venue that encapsulated his wine vision. “We had not encountered a wine bar in Hong Kong that embodied the essence of ThinkWine,” he says.

From the outset, his goal as founder and Managing Director was to curate an exceptional list. This devotion to exclusivity and quality sets ThinkWine apart – for instance, it’s the only establishment outside France that offers bottles from Château de Cherubin & Rayas, the spectacular Renaissance castle in the Loire Valley. “We procure wines directly from France, leveraging the relationships I’ve established with various winemakers,” he explains, highlighting the meticulous selection process that defines his cellar.

At ThinkWine, patrons can expect a diverse array of wines, with approximately 75% of offerings from France. Selections from emerging wine-producing countries ensure accessibility for all enthusiasts, with bottles priced from HK$350 to $42,000. “Our focus is on the quality and flavour of the wines we choose,” he states.

In recent years, Loriot has championed producers outside his homeland, recognising their distinctive profiles. “When I arrived in Hong Kong, my knowledge was primarily centred on French varieties,” he admits. However, exposure to diverse labels from Australia, Italy and beyond has enriched his perspective. “Each country has its unique characteristics and stories behind its wines,” he adds, underscoring a pledge to showcase a broad spectrum of styles.

Glass Runneth Over

Loriot’s love of wine is intertwined with his philosophy of happiness. “Wine is indeed a significant part of my happiness,” he affirms. However, he emphasises that true fulfilment comes from balancing professional commitments with personal relationships. “The connections we build enhance our appreciation of life’s joys, including wine,” he reflects.

Looking ahead, he aims to extend ThinkWine’s scope. “In January 2023, we successfully launched our distribution channels to restaurants and hotels,” he reveals. He also envisions establishing new wine bars in Hong Kong, Macau and Shanghai, or even returning to France to share his inventive approach to wine enjoyment.

When asked about his favourite wines, Loriot expresses a fondness for Champagne and Burgundy, but also appreciates the outstanding pours of Australia that he has encountered during his time in Hong Kong. “Each vintage brings its own unique character and story,” he notes, highlighting the richness of the wine experience.

For those aspiring to enter the industry, Loriot believes a genuine passion for the winemaking craft is essential. “The initial stages can be challenging, but with perseverance and the right guidance, it is possible to achieve great heights,” he encourages, reflecting on his own journey and the dedication it demands.

As Loriot continues to curate a dazzling list and foster a deeper love for wine in the Hong Kong community, he embodies the spirit of exploration and discovery that defines the world of wine. Through ThinkWine, he not only shares exceptional vintages but also invites everyone to partake in the joy of wine appreciation, one glass at a time. Or, in his case, bottle.

“See all of this beautiful mess,” he says in delight, indicating empty bottles left over from their fifth anniversary bash the previous week. “We sure know how to throw an epic party, ha? Fun times and even more fun and brighter times ahead. I say cheers to that!”