Spice Fixing – The inventive dishes at the Gaylord Indian Restaurant keep getting better

Ask an Indian friend where to find the best Indian food in Hong Kong and the prompt answer will be: “At our house.” It is not feasible, though, to show up at a friend’s home, let alone unannounced, whenever we crave Indian food. Within the bustling cityscape of Tsim Sha Tsui, the thriving local Indian community has unabashedly and generously shared its culinary heritage with those of us who can’t get enough of the country’s spice-infused favourites. A standout among all of these establishments is the Gaylord Indian Restaurant, which has been operating since 1972.

“We have kept our menu true to its Indian roots while also adapting to the change of times in food trends,” says owner and general manager Rajeev Bhasin. “It makes my heart full when I see frequent customers now have grandkids that they also bring here. I hope we’ll have another 50 years to celebrate with them.”

indian restaurant gaylord

Like its palatable offerings, Gaylord’s interior design makes a lasting impression. A wall of art and gold photo frames and a golden Ganesha greet diners, beckoning the way into what is seemingly a two-room design. The restaurant proudly displays a dazzling new façade via peacock teal and bright orange upholstered booths and chairs that contrast with the salmon-pink walls. Envisioned to be a place with a lot of colours, the overall effect pays tribute to both India’s history and modern culture. The previously wood-carved pillar partitions now breathe new life, dangling as accents to the already exceptional ceilings. It is with this consideration of detail that diners will encounter the intimacy of Gaylord’s India with a touch of Hong Kong influence. The space is, indeed, a veritable feast for the eyes and any Instagram feed.

indian restaurant gaylord

Of course, it’s the food that is the real star here, where authentic recipes have been tweaked to perfection for a one-of-a-kind Indian dining experience. Indian cuisine is, after all, among the world’s most enticing due to its vibrant colours and unusual spices. It has alternatives that suit every palate and diet and is distinctive while still being diversified. Such is the wonder of the 50th-anniversary tasting menu created by guest Master Chef Sanjeev Kapoor, which is unassumingly divided into categories like Relish, Amuse Bouche, Appetisers, Tandoori & Kabab Course, Main Course and Dessert.

Chilli Pineapple Sambal and Poppadum paired with Prawn Balchao Puri with Solkadhi [note: the menu online says Mushroom] make a great introduction to this spice-centred show. The soft, hollow dough balls are stuffed with prawns sprinkled with Goan spices and ooze with kokum-flavoured coconut milk. Vegetable Samosa, the ubiquitous Indian street snack that is a Gaylord classic, makes a cameo, its fried coned pastry filled with spiced potatoes and green peas.

indian restaurant gaylord

The harmony of both flavour and fragrance continues with Lemongrass Paneer Malai Tikka. Chunks of tandoor-grilled homemade cottage cheese with a hint of lemongrass and cream complement the stuffed kidney-bean cakes blended with aromatic spices of Rajma Bean Galouti Kabab, which come atop masala-baked bread.

Like many Indian dishes, the renditions at Gaylord often come in pairs. Truffle Dum Jackfruit, subtly spiced and slowly cooked with coconut milk and truffle cream, is accompanied by Saffron Basmati Pulao Rice. Another flavourful favourite pairing is Shaam Savera with Smoked Pepper Makhani and Baby Beetroot and Walnut Raita. A signature main of the celebrity chef, the creamy balls are rolled in spinach purée and presented on a bed of smoked pepper sauce. Also of note are saucy Indian staples like black dal, which Kapoor elevates in Lalla Mussa Dal. The 36-hour slow-cooked green and black lentil dish, enlivened with a blend of aromatic herbs, is best enjoyed with freshly baked naan stuffed with ricotta cheese and truffle pâté.

indian restaurant gaylord

To satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth, Baked Jaggery Yogurt with Peach and Walnut ends this degustation demonstration with a wow. If that still isn’t enough, then make sure to save a little space for the cardamom- and saffron-infused homemade ice cream, Kesar Kulfi – one of the original offerings from the restaurant’s launch just over 50 years ago.

GAYLORD INDIAN RESTAURANT, 5/F, Prince Tower, 12A Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2376 1001

Photos: Gay Lord Indian Restaurant

The Roe Down: Handcrafted with feeling, Artifact presents artistic yet approachable caviar-infused Japanese cuisine

Tucked away below Central’s traffic horns and meandering pedestrians – along what has become the go-to canteen of people in stilettos and navy suits – is Artifact, a newly opened upscale chef’s table Japanese restaurant uniting the different variations of caviar with fine dishes. Paired harmoniously with jet-fresh ingredients flown directly from Japan, this whole caviar experience is savoured at a deep-blue upholstered 14-seat dining counter and ultra-sleek contemporary speakeasy bar set within a casual basement food hall. These diverse concepts converge in the creative mind of Chef Sato Kiyoshi, whose vision has brought eccentric Japanese cuisine to the energetic epicentre of Hong Kong – in the depths of BaseHall 02 in Jardine House.

It is the quality of food and ingredients presented in a delectable style that sets Artifact apart from the hundreds of other Japanese restaurants scattered around the city. In true Japanese fashion, calling in an artisanal expert like Chef Kiyoshi was an important puzzle piece in its realisation. Scrimping on quality is never an option for the head chef, who says of his edible masterpieces: “It’s a combination of texture, foundation, ingredients and balance. For me, a perfect dish is always driven by a feeling or an inspiration.”

artifact

The speakeasy bar offers separate and interchangeable menus; it is only at the chef’s table that a single menu is strictly adhered to, omakase-style. However, with an intricacy based upon ‘shun’ – the Japanese philosophy of seasonality – the menu adapts constantly to fold in the finest produce on the market. “We are an ingredients-focussed restaurant, so the menu changes according to what is the best for the season,” says Kiyoshi. “From the first menu to the next one, for instance, we changed chocolate and coffee dessert to milk and ginger, and wagyu to tenderloin.” It is often said that we eat with our eyes first. At Artifact, the food looks just as good as it tastes and all the dishes are pretty spectacular. And so, the caviar chronicle begins. With a name defined as a handmade object or the remains of one, Artifact takes pride in the craftwork that goes into the construction of each tasting menu – both for its four-course lunch and eight-course dinner.

Also Read: Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

 

 

The four-course set embraces appetisers of Miso Cheese with Baerii Caviar, and Namerou, Goma and Kaluga Caviar, followed by a choice of entrée between Polmard Beef with Kaki Potato and Obsiblue Prawn with Ginger Orange Ponzu and Oyster. For the main course, there are options of Hokkaido Pork, Carrot and Wakami; Toothfish, Kabocha and Razor Clams; or Wagyu with Maitake and Soy, along with a traditional Tamago Kake Gohan (Japanese egg and rice) to accompany the meal and a seasonal dessert to wrap it up.

Caviar is central to the dinner journey, where the dégustation menu includes highlights such as Namerou and Goma with Kaluga; Takoyaki and Rakkyo with Ossetra; and Carabineros with Smoked Miso Cream and Baerii. Kinmedai, Kabu and Yuzu is another wonderful course. If the caviar rush becomes too much, a carefully curated wine list spans an international selection of Champagnes, rosés, whites and reds to cool racing minds and calm overworked taste buds.

 

The ambience is chic and bustling, catering to smart mid-towners in need of a Japanese fix. The act of sitting around a counter enhances the Artifact experience, as Kiyoshi elaborates: “We aim to offer the best dining experience as we can with the counter dining setting. It gives me and my team more opportunities to interact with customers. Diners can also see what’s brewing behind the kitchen and the preparation that goes into each dish.”

The truth of these words is evident as human connections extend from those relaxed at the counter enjoying their food to everyone labouring diligently within to create it. In a city like Hong Kong, where life whizzes by at almost twice the speed of a watch’s tick, Artifact stands apart because warmth, style and artfulness abound throughout the entire place. It lives in the buzzy dining room, the service, the interiors and, above all, in the sumptuous, well-considered meals. It is a scene and a dining room you want to lean into, linger over and – without question – indulge in.

artifact

Artifact, Shop 5 and 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong. +852 6468 8762. artifactbar.com

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Artifact)

Spoil Your Dad With These Mouth-Watering Father’s Day Menus

Father’s Day is just around the corner and what better way to celebrate than by treating your dad to a delicious meal. Whether he’s a steak lover or a seafood aficionado, Hong Kong’s restaurant scene offers plenty of culinary options to choose from. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the mouth-watering options that will make this Father’s Day one to remember.

father's day menus

A Lux

A Lux has taken its iconic Buon Fine Settimana weekend brunch and reimagined it for Father’s Day. The four-course menu includes unlimited Antipastos, one of these al dente pasta dishes – Parmesan Risotto with Lobster Ragout; Penne with Beef Cheek and Mushroom Cream; Abalone Spinosini with Garlic and Chilli (add HK$88); or Carabineros Prawn Spaghetti (add HK$108), and a main course from the following options: Roasted U.S. Ribeye with Gravy; Sea bass and Clams with Spinach and Butter Sauce; Japanese Chicken Saltimbocca; Grilled Australian M8 Wagyu Beef (add HK$368); or Beef Wellington. This decadent meal will be followed by the staff bringing a dessert trolley consisting of a plethora of sweet treats from which you can pick all your favourite ones. For HK$788, guests can enjoy Siberian Sturgeon Caviar, unlimited Roasted U.S. Ribeye and 90 minutes of free flow of non-alcoholic drinks in addition to the aforementioned four-course meal. Another variation of the brunch menu, which is priced at HK$888, comes with a free flow of top-notch champagnes and wines that dads will undoubtedly appreciate.

Where: Shop M2, M/F, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong
When: June 17 and 18 (12:00 PM to 3:00 PM)
How much: Starting at HK$588 per person.
For reservations: info@a-lux.hk, (852) 2663 9938 or click here.

father's day menus

Carver

Whether your dad loves a good steak or never misses choosing the seafood options at any restaurant he goes to, this special six-course Father’s Day menu called Family Degustation Menu at Carver will certainly be to his liking. This one-day brunch feast features a prime Australian Striploin steak, that is juicy and rich in flavours, served with beer fries and truffle gravy. Also on the menu are the Black Cod Fillet with salmon roe and Champagne butter sauce, Lobster Spaghetti; and Canadian Pork Chop paired with mashed potato and apple meat. Additionally, there is a remarkable selection of appetisers, salads and a soup. To perfectly complement all the luscious dishes on the menu, people can choose from red and white wine options to treat their taste palettes.

Where: Carver, 1/F, Crowne Plaza Hong Kong Causeway Bay
When: June 18
How much: HK$748 per person
For reservations: carver@cphongkong.com or (852) 5978 5971

father's day menus

Francis

Another restaurant to go to this weekend to devour a meal that is filling for your stomach and heart is Francis. The gourmet-class sumptuous Middle Eastern dishes here will take you on a culinary journey transcending your entire family to the colourful and exotic streets of Tel Aviv. With a wide variety of dishes like meze, shakshuka, kafta and more to be savoured, these a-la-carte dishes are perfect for families to bond as they share the dishes. Accompanying them are the main course options consisting of Seafood Couscous; Mughrabi Chicken Parm; and Steak & Eggs. And to further elevate the gastronomical experience, Francis brings to the table a collection of wines from the Meditterian region that were thoroughly selected by exceptional connoisseurs.

Where: Francis, 4 & 6 St. Francis Street, Wan Chai
When: Weekends (11:30 AM to 4:00 PM)
How much: Prices vary based on the dish
No reservations are required.

father's day menus

Man Ho

An equally impressive option for fathers who are a fan of the local Cantonese cuisine is Man Ho which will be serving two spesh 8-course menus consisting of some of the best culinary delights of the region. If you visit the fine dining area in the afternoon, the restaurant will bring plates of mouth-watering delicacies such as dim sums, Crispy Roasted Suckling Pig, Deep fried Lobster Claw with Shrimp Mousse, and Double-boiled Conch with Maca and Bamboo Pith. For the night, the Cantonese restaurant has prepared a dinner menu using only the most high-end ingredients in the market, significantly making all the dishes highly delectable. The dinner menu will have the following – Chilled Lobster Fillet and Salmon Roe with Mayonnaise; Double boiled Kanto Sea Cucumber Soup with Conch and Maca; Braised South African Dried Abalone with Goose Web; Braised Tiger Prawn with Cognac and Seaweed Sauce.

Where: Man Ho, Level 3, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
When: June 18 (11:30 AM to 3:00 PM for lunch and 6:00 PM to 10:00 PM for dinner)
How much: Lunch menu at HK$688 per person and dinner at HK$1288
For reservations: Click here (note: each booking should include a minimum of four people)

LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

Exquisite service, incredible food, attention to detail – a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Central whisked us off to the French Riviera without having to catch a plane. Located in the art-themed complex of H Queen’s on Stanley Street, LPM Restaurant and Bar is a modern brasserie awash in elegant whites, and one of the go-to places in the city for fine French-Mediterranean food minus the fuss or undue flourishes.

Casting off the gloom of a fifth Covid wave in Hong Kong, on a bright winter’s day, we arrive at the stylish, handsomely white-tableclothed restaurant for a lunchtime tasting. Entering through an open patio that seats 14, we are immediately struck by the expansive dining space (LPM accommodates 104 in total), modern architecture and relaxed, welcoming vibe. The interiors are a sunny delight, dotted with carefully curated contemporary artwork from the South of France and its environs.

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

Modern French gastronomy may not be hot at the moment, but that doesn’t bother head chef Maurizio Pace. “Our food is timeless,” he says, “You really can’t eat a bad French meal, and we’ve designed a classic menu with a contemporary twist. It is labour-intensive, detail-oriented and the execution is flawless.” Armed with more than two decades of culinary experience across Italy, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, Pace steers clear of trends to create new, bold flavours amidst an informality unfamiliar in most traditional French restaurants. Each mouthful here, is an unapologetic food adventure, one that is not easily forgotten or recreated elsewhere.
From a menu exhibiting a wide confluence of classics, the chef prepares four courses of earthy fare for this vegetarian. Once seated, the server comes forth with a plate of Italian tomatoes, lemon and olive oil to “make your own salad”. Ripe and bursting with flavour, it’s an entertaining start to escape the wait for entrées which are prepared in the open kitchen.

Also Read: The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts
Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts

 

We begin with Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts. Bitter and twisted, endives are an acquired taste, but once you’re accustomed, there’s no looking back. Sliced and bathed in a tangy dressing of mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil, the chicory is topped with apple slices, a mound of cheese and crispy caramelised nuts.

Our taste buds thus shocked out of hibernation, we’re ready to dig deep into Black Truffle with Burrata. Fresh, milky burrata cheese flown straight from Italy is served with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous shaving of European black truffle. This delicious marriage of earthy, aromatic ingredients can be savoured all winter long.

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French diningHomemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes
Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes

Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes is a humble, comforting dish – flavourfully packed with herbs but not piled with cream, and most importantly not leaving a sinking feeling in the mouth like some pasta creations. It’s served with the right amount of piquancy, warmth and salt, and I can imagine children getting wild for it.

LPM offers an exhaustive wine list, as well as cocktails that are beyond impressive. Bar Manager Benjamin Boyce, stirs a complex, magical potion for Beauty and the Beast, a mildly sweet and invigorating mix of Ketel One vodka, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, strawberry, fennel cordial and yellow Chartreuse.

The heady cocktails are outdone by the calorie-dense dessert of Vanilla Cheesecake with Berry Compote. A faultlessly smooth, unassuming wedge comes with the promise of airy lightness, the thin crunchy base and the tartness of mixed berries prove to be exactly the sort of old-school sweetness I’d wage a fork-war over.
The undisputed simplicity and freshness of ingredients here, prepared with love and respect, make you crave for a leisurely Saint-Tropez holiday, and it’s this ability to captivate and transport diners that has built LPM such a solid local clientele.

Also Read: The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong

LPM Restaurant and Bar. H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central. (852) 2887 1113. lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong

(Text: Nikita Mishra Pictures: LPM Restaurant and Bar)

Suchic: The chicest sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio

Typically, izakayas – Japan’s singular take on the more informal form of hostelry – are seen as smoky, rowdy drinking dens, places where the food takes a back seat to the serious business of boozing. Many, however, now boast more of a 21st century ethos, something that one intrepid Hong Kong restaurant is looking to capitalise on by offering a vibrant range of delicious and delicate Nipponese dishes. The establishment in question of course, is Silencio, one of the best-kept secrets on the sixth floor of Central’s LKF Tower.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio Chef Sato Kiyoshi

Having first opened its doors two years ago, it is now under new management in the form of recently-arrived Executive Chef Sato Kiyoshi, a Japanese-born culinary whizz who earnt his spurs with stints in Australia, London, Singapore as well as back in his homeland. Acknowledging the impact his international experiences have had on his personal style, he says: “Thankfully, I had the opportunity to work under some true masters, and I think their passion for experimenting with flavours and improvising with ingredients made a strong impression on me. Their creative spirit and culinary flair is something I strive to recreate for all the diners who come to Silencio.”

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio seasonal otoshi

Eager to see this philosophy in action, we began our tasting with a beautifully plated amuse bouche – Seasonal Otoshi. Here, set atop a bed of seaweed, could be found three spherical raw seafood bites with scallop and multiple cuts of tuna. The former was, undoubtedly, the most unusual of these and came with green apple and topped with a subtle apple dashi jelly as a refreshingly tangy palate cleanser.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio tuna trio

Then it was on to the first appetiser – Tuna Trio. As the name suggests, this take on nigiri sushi saw three cuts of tuna – a sliver each of a lean akami, a medium-fat chutoro and a fatty otoro – layered atop each other on a bed of rice. A deft balancing act, each mouthful allowed for comprehensive appreciation for the myriad flavours of this much-coveted fish dish. A dash of soy sauce the sole accompaniment, it imparted delightful umami notes to each biteful.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio Aki – Pomard beef tartare

Staying with the cold course motif, next to arrive was the Aki – Pomard beef tartare topped with medallions of pear and radish, all served with an intriguing black rice cracker. A veritable study in textures, the subtle meatiness of the beef was, in turn, enhanced with the sweetness of the pear and juiciness of the radish, with the accompanying creamy hollandaise sauce imparting a touch of richness to proceedings.
Then, with more than a hint of flourish, Chef Sato served up the most visually stunning plate of the session – Sakura. Taking its cue from the eponymous flower that is so well loved by the Japanese, the dish featured flowering petals of pink, purple and white radish, all laid upon squared cubes of tuna. Underpinning this was a unique sauce, comprising nori seaweed oil and a paste reduced from last year’s crushed cherry blossom petals. Undeniably tart, this ceviche-esque dish once again showcased the chef’s indisputable knack for integrating strong flavours into surprisingly nuanced plates.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio wagyu

The final savoury course then took its turn on the table in the form of Wagyu, a decadent steak dish featuring perfectly-cooked slivers of medium-rare beef presented amid a white garlic cream and a dense black garlic jus. Brimming with rich umami flavours, the dual garlic sauces nevertheless allowed the melt-in-your-mouth morsels of beef to shine through, with the accompanying chives and makomotake – a type of fungal root – bringing an added layer of crunchiness.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio hokkaido dessert
To round off our tasting, Chef Sato once again dipped into the rich cuisine-related traditions of his homeland serving up the distinctly snowy winter-themed dessert, Hokkaido. Startlingly monochromatic, this all-white treat forefronted brown butter ice cream atop a Hokkaido milk cream base, all topped with crunchy dehydrated milk crackers. Comprising a veritable torrent of textures, this deliciously creamy concoction once again showcased the chef’s signature style pairing visually arresting plating with a riot of flavours. All, of course, balanced to perfection.

A Cut Above: Tosca di Angelo is no leaning tower of pizza

It’s admittedly hard not to immediately be wowed when stepping into Tosca di Angelo, the one Michelin-starred Italian fine-dining establishment that resides on the 102nd floor of Kowloon’s International Commerce Centre and forms part of the ever-stately Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. Upon entering the  restaurant, its floor-to-ceiling windows offer sweeping views across the city’s iconic skyline – and it’s perched some 450m high – making it quite a sight.

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo chef Angelo Agliano

Back 10 years ago, when it first opened its doors, it held the record for being the highest Italian restaurant in the world. Whether that’s still the case or not, given it has held onto its Michelin star for eight years running, you might be forgiven for assuming the view is but a sideshow to the majesty of the culinary creations found within, all of which are prepared under the auspices of Chef Angelo Agliano.

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo interior

Having helmed the restaurant for three years, he sums up his vision for Tosca di Angelo thus: “I come from Sicily, but I’ve had experience across the world, including Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong. So, I want to serve dishes that reveal these international accents, but whose souls are unequivocally Italian, albeit with a fine-dining twist.”

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo_Fassona Beef Carpaccio

Eager to see Chef Agliano’s philosophy in practice, we made haste to explore our first tasting course – Fassona Beef Carpaccio with Light Mustard, Artichoke and Arugula. Here, the slivers of meat – exceptionally lean beef from the prized Fassona cattle of Italy’s Piedmont region – were surprisingly delicate yet full of flavour. Accompanied by aged parmesan cheese shavings and crunchy artichokes (for added texture), the meatiness of the dish has been deftly enhanced by a beef jelly that takes three days to condense. 

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo Mezzi Paccheri Pasta with Sicilian Red Shrimps and Basil Pesto Sauce

Next to arrive was the Mezzi Paccheri with Sicilian Red Shrimp and Basil Pesto Sauce, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Crowned with two jumbo Sicilian red shrimps, this pasta dish is all creamy goodness and umami delight, with its strong oceanic accents somewhat tempered by the refreshing pesto sauce. Within each paccheri (large ring-shaped pasta, served al dente) lay smaller morsels of red shrimp, ensuring that every bite yielded notes of the sea.

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo risotto

Prior to the arrival of the next course – Risotto “Acquerello” with Hokkaido Sea Urchin, Sundried Tomatoes and Black Truffle – we had been told that no less an authority than the late French gastronomic giant Joel Robouchon had deemed Agliano’s risotto to be the best he’d ever tried. That high praise seemed, if anything, inadequate if our experience was anything to go by. Decadently laced with fresh Hokkaido sea urchin and a heaped mound of black truffle shavings, the creamy risotto almost melted in the mouth. In a bid to cut through its richness, the judicious addition of tangy sun-dried tomatoes imparted a delightful tanginess to the proceedings. In short, it was extravagance on a plate.

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo Red Star Grouper in Matalotta Fish Soup with Olives, Capers and Cherry Tomatoes

Then it was on to the secondi – Red Star Grouper in Matalotta Fish Soup with Olive, Capers and Cherry Tomato. It’s a dish particularly close to Agliano’s heart and one said to be an homage to the hearty fish stews of his Sicilian childhood. In deference to local tastes, however, it does come burnished with bamboo-steamed red grouper, long the favoured fish of the city’s discerning diners. Breaking with the convention of using freshly-caught grouper – “Fresh fish are too tense, they need a few days in the fridge for the flesh to relax and become supple,” explains the chef – the soft texture of this three-day-chilled fillet has been enhanced with a quintessential Sicilian fish soup, replete with a tangy combination of capers and cherry tomatoes.

gafencu_gmhk_hk_dining_restaurants_A Cut Above Tosca di Angelo Traditional Tiramisu with Coffee Granita

Finally, with scarcely any room left, we rounded off our tasting with some Traditional Tiramisu with Coffee Granita. A decidedly modern take on that most classic of Italian desserts, the cake’s coffee-soaked sponge was replaced with a fresh espresso granita served on the side. It’s an innovative approach and one that grants different nuances to each mouthful, once again showcasing Chef Angelo’s unique ability to blend classic traditions with contemporary techniques, producing dishes with truly mouth-watering – but undeniably Italian – flavours that will continue to charm and captivate the city’s epicureans.

 

Tosca di Angelo. 102/Fl, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd West, Tsim Sha Tsui. (852) 2263 2270. www.ritzcarlton.com

Go Honjo: Exploring this hip, contemporary new Japanese eatery

With few in the Fragrant Harbour having much of an appetite for Hubei cuisine at the present, hungry Hongkongers have been casting about for a tempting alternative. One that has come very much to the fore is Japanese food. Indeed, unless you’ve spent the last month forcibly con ned just off the coast of Yokohoma, chances are you can easily nd this an enigmatic and oft underexplored cooking style. Thankfully, for those looking to address any such shortcoming on their personal, diet-based, mission of discovery, there is a local destination sure to remedy just that – Sheung Wan-set Honjo. 

Honjo Interiors

One of a number of dineries debuted last year by the Wong Chuk Hang-headquartered Pirata Group – the company behind such celebrated scofferies as The Optimist and Tokyolima – Honjo prides itself on reinventing quintessential Japanese dishes in a wholly contemporary manner. The result is an expansive, well thought- out menu that’s eclectic yet familiar, comprising everything from raw staples and cold appetisers to sushi, tempura and a positive panoply of larger platters.

Those expecting any hallmark of greatness from without, however, might be a little disappointed – access to its apparently unassuming premises is via an equally unassuming little door. Once you have crossed the threshold, though, you are immediately transported through time and space, but not to any destination you might anticipate… Rather than finding yourself catapulted to the court of the Chrysanthemum Throne sometime 1700 AD-ish, instead it’s the singular stylings of ’50s Britain, all dim lighting, safari prints and ruddy furnishings, that greet you. Despite being something of a surprise, it is undoubtedly welcoming and cosy in its own way…

Honjo Bar

It would also take more than an outré ambience to dissuade us from our tasting mission and we were more than eager to dive into the first course – Tuna Cracker, a modern interpretation of the traditional nigiri. Each piece proved a mighty mouthful, with shredded raw tuna, ikura (salmon roe), an avocado mousse and a deep-fried rice-cracker all vying for mouthroom. It was an intriguing combination, with the crunchy rice, juicy roe and slight wasabi sting in the mousse all acting to enhance the creaminess of the tuna. 

Honjo Iberico

Next up was Iberico – seared pork tenderloin, seasoned with a spicy Sichuan oil and a refreshing ginger scallion salsa. With further refinement coming in the form of both the bubu arare (deep- fried rice grains) and the lingering notes of Sichuan pepper, every bite lingered long, light and tangy.

Honjo Sushi Platter

The final cold dish to be served up was a Medium Sushi Platter, laden with four types of nigiri – salmon, hamachi belly, chutoro and tuna – and two rolls, salmon / avocado and hamachi / cucumber. A feast for the eyes as much as the palate, the melt-in-your-mouth chutoro was an instant hit, while the hamachi cucumber roll – accented with purple yukari shiso salt – offered the most interesting in-mouth sensation. Next up was the first hot dish of the tasting – the Honjo Tempura Selection. Lightly battered, but perfectly crisp, the black tiger prawns surprised as the undoubted stars of this delicious dish. Once again, though, the restaurant had an ace up its sleeve, this time in the form of its Broccolini. While it’s an unusual tempura inclusion, its subtle crunch and juicy texture won us over completely.

Honjo Broccolini

Perhaps the most outstanding dish, though, was the Whole Chicken & Rice, which, true to its name, featured a whole baby chicken, one stuffed with mushrooms, pancetta and sticky rice, then served with hazelnuts, salt and a delectable, buttery ginger roast sauce. While there’s no denying the East-meets- West credentials of this particular dish, it’s a combination that, while complex, is far greater than its constituent parts. Not only does the dish shine in its own right, the addition of each condiment transforms the overall flavour palate, essentially delivering four courses on one plate.

Honjo Whole Chicken & Rice

All in all, it’s an apt display of just how Honjo has raised the bar for modern Japanese cuisine, experimenting with new ingredients and enhancing classic favours with a wholly dynamic flourish. Add to that its stunningly lush interiors and what you get is a true culinary gem. 

Honjo. 1/Fl, 77-91 Queen’s Rd West, Sheung Wan. (852) 2663 3772. honjo.hk 

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Honjo

The Flying Elk: Uncompromising Nordic fare sets out to woo the cuisine-curious

           

Apparently the kind of stealth cuisine that has long ducked the fine-dining radar of even the Fragrant Harbour’s boldest big eaters, it seems that Nordic fare might have, at last, come in from the cold. Until recently solely synonymous with the make-do meatballs of Swedish self-assembly sofa retailers, sumptuous Scandinavian-style suppers are finally on offer at a high-end Hong Kong dinery. And it doesn’t seem a moment too soon.

Given Hong Kong’s renowned appetite for menus of a more maverick nature, it’s no surprise that The Flying Elk – an unashamed Nordic noshery – has found a ready welcome amid the hotpot houses and bijou bistros of downtown Central. An admittedly novel notion, it arrives on the city’s nightlife (and lunch life) scene courtesy of Maximal Concepts – the SAR-based hospitality group behind Mott 32 and Brickhouse, to name but two – and Björn Frantzén, the redoubtable three Michelin-starred Stockholm-born superchef.

The Flying Elk boasts Scandinavian flourishes

Cards on the table, this isn’t actually the first time Frantzén has tempted hungry Hongkongers with his own brand of Stockholm home-cooking. Indeed, it was just over two years ago that Sheung Wan-set Frantzén’s Kitchen opened its doors, a dining spot rightly famed for its Nordic-Asian fusion fare. The key difference with his latest venture, though, is that it makes no concession for local tastes, defiantly serving solely Scandinavian dishes in an ambiguously authentic Nordic style.

Even the name of his new establishment hints at his unwillingness to compromise – a native of the forests of Sweden, the mythical flying elk could neither be captured nor tamed. Indeed, a similarly Nordic defiance permeates the restaurant that bears the beast’s name, with even its log cabin stylings more than hinting that this is not just another fad-focussed downtown dinery.

Chef Jim Löfdahl of The Flying Elk
Chef Jim Löfdahl of The Flying Elk

Charged with maintaining that authenticity while Frantzén is away tending his global interests is his protégé and long-term collaborator, Chef Jim Löfdahl. As bullish as his boss when it comes to his commitment to delivering top-class cuisine time after time, he says: “Fine dining is really cooking taken to the next level. To be able to perform in that kind of environment, you need to be able to push yourself every day and to always be on top of your game.”

Roasted Scallops
Roasted Scallops

Keen to determine whether there’s more to their menu than just Swedish sweet talk, we opted to commence our contemplation of the comestibles on offer with the Roasted Scallops, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. A compelling combination of scrambled egg, truffles, crispy potatoes and scallops, all atop a warm layer of beurre noisette, as a statement of intent, it’s hard to fault.

Next up was the Roasted Beetroots – presented astride a spinach-and-watercress bed – a dash of  almond and truffle vinaigrette provided a suitably piquant counterpoint. The standout here, though, was the cream of Jerusalem artichoke, which underpinned the whole of this vegetarian delight.

Poached Cod
Poached Cod

With the appetisers more than passing muster, it was then on to the Poached Cod. This proved a dish so impressively prepared and so delightfully delivered that it left us yearning for just one more dollop of its subtly lemon-flavoured onion cream glaze.

Venison
Venison

While not wanting to belittle any of the taste bud titillations that preceded it, just about everything paled in comparison to the Venison victorious, the main course nonpareil. Perhaps as a sign of just how rare it is to find such exquisitely-served game in Hong Kong, we fell upon it with relish, devouring it in record time. Overall, the pairing of berries with the fulsomely fatty meat proved an effective – yet suitably subtle – touch, with any gaminess dialed down just enough to make it genuinely delicious.

Sticky Toffee Pudding
Sticky Toffee Pudding

Then, making us oddly nostalgic for the Nordic nights we had – admittedly – never known, it was on to the Sticky Toffee Pudding. Doused in a generous ginger butterscotch sauce, this is just a must for anyone who feels as though Christmas cuisine can never truly  outstay its welcome.

So, can Nordic comfort food woo the wavering diners of Hong Kong away from such safe harbour staples as French, Italian, Korean and Japanese cuisine? The answer would have to be very much in the affirmative. After all, it may just be that the famously long Scandinavian nights are really just a pretext for famously long Scandinavian suppers. Only by checking out The Flying Elk will you know for sure.

The Flying Elk. 2F Wyndam Mansion, 32 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2898 3788.