Gaia Ristorante continues to impress with elevated Italian cuisine

If there was ever a Hong Kong locale that called to mind the charm of a Roman piazza, it is surely the open plaza abutting Central’s Grand Millennium Plaza. How fortuitous, then, that nestled amid the lush foliage and grandiose staircases lies one of the city’s most iconic Italian restaurants – Gaia Ristorante. Having first opened its doors just over two decades ago, this grand dame of the SAR’s F&B scene has more than held its own through the never-ending waves of new eateries that have risen and fallen and risen again across the intervening years.

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So, in a city where restaurants open and close at the drop of a hat, what’s the secret to Gaia’s outstanding longevity? “While our offerings are not that different from many other Italian eateries in the city, after more than two decades, we’ve put together a very solid offering. We focus on fresh ingredients and classic recipes that have been tried and tested with discerning diners over the years,” explains owner Pino Piano. “More importantly, we listen to our customers’ feedback. Some of our patrons have been coming back to us for two generations now, and if they’d like something tweaked slightly, we are more than happy to accommodate them.”

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Affable and charming, Naples-born Piano is a stalwart of the industry who has seen the evolution of the city’s dining scene first-hand. Recalling Gaia’s early days, he says: “Things were totally different when we first began. We were the first restaurant to introduce al-fresco dining to the central business district. Up until that point, outdoor dining could only be found farther afield in Sai Kung or the outlying islands.”

 

Also Read: Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

 

Eager to sample the fare that has enchanted the city since 2001, we begin our tasting with two appetisers – Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia and Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga. The former is an ancient Roman-Jewish dish of flowering artichoke hearts that are boiled then deep-fried. Crisp on the outside and deliciously succulent on the inside, it’s an enticing opening act. The latter starter of fried calamari and red prawns is equally delicious. Each morsel here is lightly battered and fried before being sprinkled with anchovy salt, with an optional squeeze of lemon deftly cutting through the inherent oiliness of the dish.

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Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti

Continuing with the seafood motif, our next course of Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti arrives tableside. Topped with a juicy, generously sized Mediterranean red king prawn, the underlying spaghetti is cooked to al-dente perfection and ladened with smaller shelled prawns as well. The sauce, too, merits particular mention, with the tanginess and slight piquancy of the spicy cherry tomatoes serving as the perfect foil for the oceanic accents of the dish.

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Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso

Onto the mains, we begin with the decadent Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso, featuring a sliced slab of wagyu sirloin accompanied by asparagus and Romanesco broccoli. Cows at the Mayura farm in Australia are given a chocolate-laden diet that is said to enhance the tenderness and flavour of their beef. Umami-laden and melt-in-your-mouth soft, this is guaranteed to be a hit with any meat-minded diner.

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Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina

With our waistlines getting dangerously tight, the final course hoves into view: a beautiful plate of Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina (an oven-baked sea bass accompanied by lemon and chives). The fish in question is, as Piano explains, first deboned then coated in a salt-and-egg white crust before being baked in the oven – a deft move that sees all its inherent flavours retained. Once unpacked, a dash of lemon and a sprinkling of chopped chives are all the garnishes required. A delicious blend of crunchy skin and fall-off-the-bone tender flesh, it’s small wonder that this signature dish has been on the menu since Gaia’s inception.

Gaia Ristorante. Unit 01-05, G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Central. (852) 2167 8200

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

 

Also Read: Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.

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Also Read: Japanese-Italian on your mind? Read our review of Pazzi Isshokenmai

This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.

The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.

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Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.

 

Also Read: Caviar etiquette done right

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Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.

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Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.

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Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.

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Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”

Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.

Clarence. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 3568 1397. clerancehk.com

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

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Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Fusion is a term that has been bandied about in culinary circles for a long time and remains as divisive as its definition is broad. Some deem the entire category as gimmicky and unimaginative, focusing more on style than substance. For its proponents, however, it is a creative reimagining of beloved cuisines that blend two disparate traditions into a synergistic whole.

It is exactly with this spirit in mind that Pazzi Isshokenmei opened its doors in Central’s new lifestyle hub H Queen’s. In particular, the expansive 6,000-square-foot eatery deftly blends Italian ingredients and techniques with the flavours of traditional Japanese izakaya. Even the name reflects its dual roots, with ‘pazzi’ meaning ‘crazy’ in Italian, and ‘Isshokenmei’ being the culturally significant Japanese term for ‘doing something difficult with all one’s might’.

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The brainchild of Philip Chow – a 20-year veteran of Hong Kong’s bustling F&B scene – this bold new restaurant is, as its promotional materials aptly claim, “a marriage between boundary-pushing creativity and laser-like precision that manifests in exquisite flavour pairings and fastidious plating”.

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Our lunchtime tasting began with a visually stunning plate of Pink Prawn Tartare. Laced with edible flowers and healthy dollops of caviar, the tartare proper features fresh pink prawns tossed in yoghurt to enhance its inherent creaminess. Imparting elements of tartness are slivers of green apple and refreshing Japanese cucumber, with the base sauce of ponzu and shiso leaf oil adding a welcome tanginess to the proceedings.

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Though small in size, the second appetiser – Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian starter of veal and sardines – was equally pleasing to the eye. Here, super slim medallions of veal are topped with chunks of tuna and a light mayonnaise, with the accompanying crouton cubes and cucumber slices bequeathing each mouthful with a delightful crunch.

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Then the first main of Lobster Spaghetti hoves into view. The freshly made pasta is tossed in a delicious lobster sauce – made all the richer by a long, slow-cooking process – though the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the succulent cooked lobster that tops the dish. Packed with oceanic accents, this is a surefire hit for any fan of this beloved shellfish.

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Next to arrive was another seafood pasta course – Crab Tagliolini. In a nod to the restaurant’s East-meets-West inspiration, the prime Japanese pairing of crab and miso is given an Italian spin here. Thin strands of tagliolini – made fresh daily – are laden with generous helpings of shredded crab meat, while caramelised onions and miso-rich gravy elevate the dish further by adding an umami-packed punch to each mouthful.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_Miso Crab Tagliolini

Our final course looked beyond the bounds of Italian and Japanese culinary traditions to that of France. Duck Confit is fronted by two perfectly-cooked ‘steaks’ of duck; the meaty morsels are melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the crispy skin bestows a delectable edgy bite. Accompaniments of potato stacks and beetroot salad further enhance this truly soul-satisfying dish.

From start to finish, every plate in our tasting menu was a symphony of stunning flavours and arresting visual appeal. By taking the best of Japanese and Italian culinary traditions, Pazzi creates something far greater than the sum of its parts, tantalising taste buds and eyes in equal measure. In the end, this is truly fusion cuisine at its finest.

 

Pazzi Isshokenmei. (852) 2555 0666. 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central. 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Chueca makes Spanish tapas more inventive

To say that Hong Kong has a saturated dining scene would be something of an understatement, so for a restaurant to set itself apart from the crowd is a major challenge indeed. Chueca, a newly opened modern Spanish tapas restaurant tucked at one end of Gough Street in Central, does just that.

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Ably helmed by Chef Jordi Vallés, a Spaniard whose impressive CV includes stints as Executive Chef with the Aqua and Pirata dining groups, Chueca offers a deft blend of casually chic ambiance and authentic, flavour-packed dishes that have found favour among even the most discerning of the city’s eager epicureans. “We don’t claim we are a fine-dining establishment,” says Vallés of this winning formula. “Yet, every one of our dishes is a high-quality offering that takes the rustic flavours of Spain and gives it a refined touch. We source many of our ingredients directly from there to ensure our cuisine is truly authentic.”

“In spite of the richness of the ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a melt-in-your-mouth lightness”

Named after a bustling district of central Madrid, Chueca has a verandah-like frontage set with a long marble countertop for an al-fresco dining experience. The airiness is also reflected in the interiors, which boast wood and brass accents with a splash of aquamarine for good measure. The overall effect is refreshingly well balanced, providing a welcoming atmosphere from the outset.

Eager to begin our own tasting, we dove right into an appetiser of Gambas Al Ajillo. A quintessential Spanish dish, the fresh tiger prawns were deep fried in delicious garlic-laden olive oil, with a sprinkling of chilli imparting a slight piquancy. Indulgent without being overwhelmingly greasy, it was a worthy opening act.

Next to arrive was Chef’s Canelón, one of Chueca’s signatures. For the uninitiated, a canelón is a pasta roll stuffed with a variety of ingredients that is typically eaten during the festive season. In this instance, though, the traditional recipe has been upscaled to feature a smooth truffle-and-meat stuffing, surrounded by generous shavings of black truffle. Rounding it off is a delectable porcini béchamel sauce that adds a creaminess to proceedings. In spite of the richness of the disparate ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a cohesive melt-in-your-mouth lightness.

The cook then offered a sneak peek at the eatery’s upcoming Christmas menu with an appetiser of Foie Gras Royale. Although a deceptively small portion upon first viewing, its size has been specifically chosen to balance the decadence within; atop each thin sliver of bread, hidden beneath shavings of black truffle, is a rich foie gras concoction that will more than satiate any hunger pangs.

Next to arrive was perhaps Chueca’s most popular main, a sharing platter of Lobster Rice. A true labour of love, the crustaceans are delivered fresh each day and the heads simmered for hours to create a delectable broth, which is then used to cook the rice, onions, tomatoes and tiny morsels of squid. The finishing touch is a perfectly cooked whole lobster. Awash in oceanic accents without ever once overwhelming the senses, the shellfish’s flavours permeate throughout. It’s a guaranteed favourite of any seafood-loving gourmand, and perfect for enjoying with loved ones.

Finally, with our waistlines getting uncomfortably tight, a dessert of Flan de Nata – a Spanish take on crème caramel – hovered into view. Sweet without being cloying, the flan is a creamy, custardy plate of mouth-watering goodness, with the accompanying medley of diced fruits injecting a welcome tartness and an extra textural element to the dessert. Simple yet delectably delicious, it was the perfect note to end our flavour-packed tasting.

 

Chueca. G/F, 8-10 Gough Street, Central. (852) 2703 0810. www.chueca.hk

 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Revamped Bombay Dreams opens at a new location with a new menu!

In Hong Kong’s ever-changing dining scene, where restaurants so readily fall foul of high rents, shifting fads and fickle appetites, Bombay Dreams is truly a rarity. Unpretentious and understated, its delicious, authentic Indian fare has nevertheless held epicureans in sway for almost two decades. Now, this stalwart of the SAR’s competitive F&B industry has embarked on the next chapter of its journey, moving just a short distance to a new location in Central’s Winning Centre.

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Sandip Gupta, Founder of Bombay Dreams

The restaurant, which was originally founded in 2003 by Sandip Gupta, is now managed by S&S Hospitality, a new firm spearheaded by Gupta and his partner that operates 11 other restaurants in the city. In spite of his expansive portfolio, however, Bombay Dreams holds a special place in his heart as the first outlet he ever opened.

Speaking of its evolution over the years, he explains: “When we first launched Bombay Dreams, it was right after SARS, so it was challenging to say the least. Then, we weathered the global financial crisis of 2007, followed by the coronavirus pandemic over the past two years. Through it all, we strove to deliver Indian food of the highest calibre, and were fortunate to be rewarded with a loyal following of diners.”

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Reflecting on its long-lived success, Gupta muses: “Honestly, I don’t think it would have been possible without the passion of myself and the entire team. Many of our staff here now were with us from our earliest days, and I believe that the loyalty and trust we’ve built over the years have allowed us to persevere through every challenge. I don’t think there’s any hidden secret or short cut to our success. At the end of the day, it’s all about hard work, patience and determination.”

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Boasting a larger square-footage than its previous locale, the new interiors are awash with red and gold accents, while an abundance of natural light imparts a welcome airiness. The alcoholic offerings, too, have been upgraded to feature an expansive wine list and India-inspired cocktails, as well as an impressive whisky wall. That’s not to say, however, that equal emphasis hasn’t been placed on the food menu, as our own tasting revealed.

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To kick things off, we sampled an appetiser of Palak Patta Chaat. This contemporary take on the beloved Indian street food sees a deep-fried spinach leaf replace the traditional crackers as the base layer. Featuring boiled potatoes and green beans topped with yoghurt and tamarind sauce, it was refreshing and addictive in equal measure.

Also Read: Chaat serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India

Gafencu_taste_restaurant_review_bombaydreams_Shahi Galouti Kebab

Then came Shahi Galouti Kebab, a dish that was originally commissioned by an ancient, ageing Lucknow ruler who wished to enjoy his favourite meat in a style that required less chewing. Wonderfully spiced without being overwhelming, the lamb kebabs in this rendition were all melt-in-your-mouth goodness.

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Next up were two mains that had been painstakingly cooked in Bombay Dreams’ ginormous tandoor ovens: Adrakh Ke Panje and Tandoori Pomfret. The former is fronted by marinated lamb chops that were sous vide for five hours before finishing in the tandoor. Its fall-off-the-bone texture was delightfully tender, with an added dash of lemon juice bringing a welcome acidity.

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The fish dish, meanwhile, was similarly succulent. Sampling bites with each of the various condiments – mint chutney, lemon, and fresh and pickled onions – gave every mouthful a different flavour. Keep in mind, though, that this fish is bone-in, so diners, ageing or not, would be wise to proceed carefully.

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With scarcely any room left, we dove into the concluding course, a dessert of Gajar Ka Halwa. An amalgam of shredded carrots, sugar and milk slow cooked to a mushy consistency, this is a dish – much like many Indian desserts – that will satiate even the sweetest of tooths.

 

Bombay Dreams, 1/F, Winning Centre,
46 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2811 9888.
www.sandshospitality.com/portfolio/bombay-dreams

 

Also Read: Northern Delights: Scrumptious Scandinavian dishes at Hjem

Northern Delights: Scrumptious Scandinavian dishes at Hjem

Following the fantastic reception of the city’s first stylish Burmese restaurant, Club Rangoon, its owners at F&B group Common Abode have shifted gears to introduce yet another relatively unfamiliar culinary concept in the form of Nordic eatery Hjem. Tucked along Hollywood Road near Man Mo Temple, this homely, welcoming new restaurant serves up authentic Nordic flavours alongside healthy beverages that are perfect for stressed-out urbanites to pick up on the go.

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Hjem, which means ‘home’ in Norwegian (and pronounced ‘yem’ in English), lies particularly close to the heart of the group’s co-founder, Elin Fu, who grew up in the Scandinavian country. She explains, “Hjem is a way of keeping home close to me wherever I may be. Food can be a very personal thing; taste can evoke certain memories and can be an instigator of new experiences. I wanted to share with guests the same comfort that I felt growing up with Nordic cuisine.”

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In line with this vision, simple, farm-to-table offerings are the order of the day, typified by the selection of smørrebrød, open-faced sandwiches with a base of robust rye bread and an array of toppings – quite literally Hjem’s bread and butter.
Our own tasting started with a trio of smørrebrød. Arctic Prawn Smørrebrød sees a heap of mayonnaise-coated prawns plucked from the region’s icy waters and placed on a bed of boiled eggs. Hearty yet refreshing, the inherent richness of this cold dish is deftly tempered with the addition of crunchy medallions of baby radish. Generous dollops of salmon roe, meanwhile, elevate the texture of each bite with a burst of flavour.

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Image courtesy of Hjem

We then dove into the Herring Smørrebrød. A staple fish in northern European diets, the herrings here are not smoked, salted or pickled as one might expect, but marinated in a pungent mustard dressing. The epitome of a love-it-or-hate-it cold sandwich – some diners may be put off by the topping’s strong aroma – it nonetheless offers unique insight into the tastes of Scandinavia.

Rounding out our platter was the warm Pork Belly Smørrebrød. Here the slivers of perfectly cooked pork belly are reminiscent of Korean samgyupsal in their preparation, all fatty goodness. To cut through the oiliness, the meat is grounded by a bed of tangy pickled red cabbage, with the accompanying fresh slivers adding a delightful crunch to proceedings. A note for the uninitiated: the smørrebrød are hugely filling despite their diminutive size, and even just one of these open-faced creations will likely satiate your appetite.

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Image courtesy of Hjem

If, however, you’ve yet to hit your limit, sampling a plate of Hjem’s Meatballs wouldn’t be amiss. The very definition of comfort food, the juicy meatballs are complemented by creamy mashed potato and umami-laden gravy. Once again, a balancing of flavours to avoid overpowering the taste buds is achieved: a spoonful of lingonberry sauce bequeaths each mouthful with a delightful tanginess that lingers long after the morsel slips down the throat.

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Image courtesy of Hjem

Alongside these comforting culinary treats, no visit to Hjem would be complete without sampling the coffees and healthy drinks on offer. From Nordic teas to kombucha spritzes, there’s something to tempt every wellness-minded diner. A star turn here is Honey Golden Milk Latte, a caffeine-free concoction that has ground turmeric as its key ingredient. Creamy with just a touch of sweetness, it is the perfect tipple to beat the heat when served over ice. Sit back and feel that invigorating Nordic breeze.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine at Club Rangoon

In  a city that has come to be largely dominated by Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese culinary hotspots, one particular eatery is bravely looking to bring a very different gourmet experience to Hong Kong connoisseurs. Nestled in the slopes of Central’s Aberdeen Street, Club Rangoon is unique in being the only Burmese restaurant in the whole of the SAR. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine gafencu magazine club rangoon chef Nelson cheque

The brainchild of Nelson Htoo, a native of Yangon, Club Rangoon reflects his desire to introduce the culinary traditions of his homeland to Hong Kong’s more discerning diners. Expanding upon the thinking behind this passion project, he says: “With this restaurant, I don’t just want to introduce locals to the recipes my mother and grandmother swore by when I was growing up, I also want to provide a genuine taste of Burmese culture.” In line with this, the dark, plushly-upholstered interior of the eatery is adorned with a plethora of Myanmese images, including many photos of Htoo’s own family.

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine gafencu magazine club rangoon Samusa

Turning to the cuisine itself, we commenced our tasting odyssey with the Mutton Samusa, a hugely popular snack in Myanmar, it also has legions of foodie fans in neighbouring India and Nepal. The dish sees lightly spiced morsels of mutton wrapped in flaky pastry and delivers a surprisingly light finish despite being deep-fried. The accompanying mint sauce – similarly subtle – heightens the samusa with a lovely aromatic tang. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine club rangoon Village Style Egg Curry Bites gafencu magazine

Next to be served were the Village Style Egg Curry Bites, with each boiled egg topped liberally with deep-fried peas and caramelised onions. A study in restraint, rather than overwhelming the taste buds, the curry serves to enhance the flavours of the melt-in-your-mouth onions, while the crunchy peas add another layer of texture. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine club rangoon Ohn No Khout Swel (Burmese style coconut noodles) gafencu magazine

Then the first of our mains – Ohn No Khout Swel (Burmese style coconut noodles) – arrived tableside. Built on a base of chicken curry and coconut soup, the egg noodles are seasoned with liberal drizzles of sesame oil and chilli oil. Undeniably a feast for the eyes, its visual appeal was matched by its rich, hearty flavours, with the thicker consistency of the sauce finding the sweet spot when it comes to the optimal noodle-to-condiment ratio. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine gafencu magazine club rangoon Mohinga

Scarcely had we finished than the next course put in an appearance – a piping hot bowl of Mohinga. This noodle soup concoction is widely considered to be the national dish of Myanmar and, as such, is an essential part of the Burmese diet. Traditionally consumed at breakfast time, mohinga is equally at home in the country’s fine-dining establishments as in its street-side hawker stalls. In Club Rangoon’s take on this iconic classic, the rice noodles are diced into bite-sized pieces and eaten with a soup spoon rather than chopsticks. The star of the particular show, though, is the catfish broth, an intense soup redolent with lemongrass, ginger and a hint of chilli that embodies comfort food at its very best. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine club rangoon A Mel Thar Dan Bauk, a Burmese-style beef biryani gafencu magazine

Scarcely pausing for breath, it was then on to the A Mel Thar Dan Bauk, a Burmese-style beef biryani inspired by Htoo’s grandmother’s own recipe. Unlike typically heavier Indian biryanis, the rice-and-vegetable bed here is simply seasoned, making it the perfect foil for the delectably tender beef cheeks. Slow cooked for 12 hours, their delicious softness is further enhanced by a tomato and dried shrimp sauce and a coating of crispy fried shallots, with the resultant combination packing a powerful umami punch.

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine gafencu magazine club rangoon Burmese Tea Ice Cream

Although almost sated by the delicious meal proper, we had just enough space for dessert – Burmese Tea Ice Cream. Described as ‘an ode to the tea culture of Burma’, this particular after proved more than a little reminiscent of Hong Kong’s own famed milk tea, though, perhaps surprisingly, not that sweet. The banana and cashew crumble – made in-house by Head Chef Karisa Cheque – and banana pudding, however, more than made up for that, upping the sugar content of the dish by several notches. 

Mayanmore Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine club rangoon gafencu magazine

Well aware of its pioneering positioning as the sole Burmese eatery in Hong Kong, Club Rangoon still goes the extra mile to ensure the authenticity of its dishes. Beyond that, though, it all but guarantess that every item on its menu isn’t just tasty, but also wholesome, hearty and welcoming, ensuring diners retain only the fondest memories of their encounter with this undeservedly rare culinary tradition.

Club Rangoon. 33 Aberdeen Street, Central. (852) 2503 3077. www.clubrangoon.com.hk 

Set sail on an epic culinary journey at The Ocean by Olivier Bellin

            

 

          

 

When one particular Michelin-star-winning French chef looked to open a new restaurant in Asia, Hong Kong was his preferred location from the off. It is, after all, a city that prides itself on its gourmandry. His instincts proved sound, with his eatery, The Ocean by Olivier Bellin, even bagging a coveted Michelin star in 2018.

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin
Chef Olivier Bellin

Clear as to just what sets The Ocean by Olivier Bellin apart, the venerable chef now says: “Essentially, our team aims to create beautiful products, each highlighting its intrinsic properties, while combining that with the finest traditions of Breton cuisine, which always looks to fuse the very best that the land and the sea have to offer. With each dish, we look to bring out all the most rarefied nuances of Brittany.”

Indeed, sticking to his avowed mission to bring out the best of Breton cuisine, Chef Bellin’s carefully-curated menu serves up a bespoke blend of maritime and earthly delights. Indeed, with our palate aptly piqued, we immediately plumped for the five-course degustation menu…

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin
Chaud-froid of cauliflower and parmesan ice cream

The very first instalment turned out to be the engagingly entitled Ocean Breeze – a chaud-froid of cauliflower and parmesan ice cream, served with squid ink jus. With the crunchiness of the cauliflower complementing the softness of the ice cream, the tone was more than set for the rest of the tasting, with expectations now running high – partly on account of the accompanying Champagne Thiénot Brut N.V., which enhanced each individual flavouring.

Next up, Sea Anchor – a pan-seared coral Brittany langoustine, beetroot and buckwheat tartare and black pudding – exemplified Bellin’s land-meets-sea leitmotif. While the freshness of the langoustine belied sundry maritime influences, the earthy aromas of the beetroot tied the whole dish together in a veritable symphony of flavours – a sensation heightened yet further by the paired Domaine Elian Da Ros, Coucou Blanc 2014.

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin
Brittany langoustine, beetroot and buckwheat tartare

Of the mains, it was easy to understand just how the Deep Sea – a lightly cooked Brittany blue lobster with brioche and pork head veil, curry sauce, apple and grapefruit condiments – has become the restaurant’s signature serving. Testifying to the special place it has in his own heart, the proud chef said: “In the Deep Sea, we have tried to optimise the natural deep flavours of the Brittany blue lobsters by contrasting them with land elements.”

Again blending the chef’s favoured elements with consummate ease, this was a dish that was both mild and complex, a sentiment only elevated by the sweetness of the lobster and then given fresh depth by the accompanying condiments. The full-bodied red wine – Domaine Georges Vernay, Viognier, Le Pied De Samson 2016 – proved to be an inspired pairing.

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin
Brittany blue lobster with brioche and pork head veil

The dessert, by comparison – the somewhat intriguingly designated Decompression – was a relatively simple affair, blending apple texture with vanilla ice cream. What it lacked in complexity, though, it made up for in terms of fulsome flavours. Ideal for those without too much of a sweet tooth, it may not be a wholly decadent affair, but it brought the whole meal to a more than satisfying conclusion.

Aside from the quality of the cuisine, a visit to The Ocean makes one other thing more than apparent – this is not the kind of place to duck into for a quick nibble. No, this is one establishment that you simply have to savour, leisurely working your way through its magnificent menu, while the city buzzes below.

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin. Shop 303-304, L3, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong (to be relocated to Central in early 2019). (852) 2889 5939. www.theocean.hk

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay