Vidigueira in the Alentejo region of Portugal has been cultivating wines since the Roman times. Attesting to the deep-rooted nature of viticulture in this area, the name Vidigueira itself nods to the Portuguese word for vine (videira). This signifies how this beautiful area has wine enmeshed deep in its soul.

Vidigueira is the favourite Portuguese wine region of Pedro Ribeiro, a wine-industry professional for more than 20 years. “It’s a place where tradition and innovation meet in a very special way,” he says. “The landscape is typically Alentejan – warm, open, with gently rolling hills – but there’s a certain energy to the wines here that really stands out.”

His lifelong mission has been to understand the nuances of viticulture. “My focus has been on understanding how place, process and people shape the character of a wine – and few places demonstrate that as clearly as Vidigueira,” adds the winemaker.

Time of the Clay

Ribeiro points out that the area is particularly known for its use of clay amphorae, or talhas, a traditional method of winemaking dating back 2,000 years. Destemmed and crushed grapes are put into these large vessels to begin fermentation, a process which occurs spontaneously given the indigenous yeast in the fruit.

Their output is undoubtedly enriched by the underlying volcanic soils in the region, and the influence of the Atlantic Ocean to the west, which plays a powerful role in the sub-region’s microclimate.

Here, the warm Mediterranean climate is cooled, especially during harvest, by breezes off the Atlantic that are stopped in their tracks by the Serra do Mendro – the hills which separate the Alto Alentejo (high country) and the Baixo Alentejo (low). Ribeiro also notes the effects of a poor but well-drained schist and granite soil, and a long-standing tradition of winemaking that values both heritage and experimentation. “This balance allows for bold, expressive wines, but also for more elegant and refined styles – especially when traditional techniques like amphora ageing are used,” he says.

Branco and Tinto

Vidigueira produces both reds and whites, though as Ribeiro suggests, it is particularly known for its whites made from the Antão Vaz grape that “thrives in the heat and gives structured, mineral wines”.

“On the red side, grape varieties like Trincadeira, Tinta Grossa and Moreto are commonly used, often resulting in wines that are rich yet fresh, especially when aged in amphorae,” he enthuses.

Respect for Tradition

Ribeiro has no hesitation when asked to name his preferred Vidigueira tipple. “Without a doubt, my favourite is Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto,” he says, enthusiastically of the winery he co-owns located between Vidigueira and the municipality of Cuba in Baixo Alentejo.

He believes his blend of Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez grapes is imbued with the qualities that make Vidigueira wines unique and the area so blessed with quality pours. “It’s a wine that captures the essence of the region – the purity of fruit, the respect for tradition, and the subtle complexity that amphora ageing brings,” he notes.

Ribeiro does raise a glass to other local wines, however. “I’m also a fan of amphora-aged wines from producers like XXVI Talhas who continue the legacy of talha winemaking with integrity,” he adds.

Fruit Forward

Describing his favourite wine, he identifies a distinct fruitiness in its aromas and taste: “The Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto offers vibrant red fruit – cherry, raspberry – but with an earthy, slightly herbal note from the amphora.”

Elaborating on how the soothing microclimate plays a part in the character of the wine, he says: “There’s a beautiful freshness, even in a warm region like Vidigueira, and a soft, almost clay-like minerality that makes it feel very alive. The texture is supple, the tannins gentle, and the finish often lingers with a slightly savoury, wild herb character.”

Brunello di Montalcino reds from picturesque Tuscany are now some of the most sought-after wines in the world. The region has a long-standing tradition of viticulture, but its reputation for quality has really blossomed in the last few decades. At the core of this output is the Sangiovese Grosso grape, a varietal which thrives in the unique microclimate and soils of the area.

In Montalcino, a small, scenic hill town south of Siena surrounded by about 30,000 hectares of rolling hills, cultivation of grapes and olives has been practised for centuries. “The vineyard area of Montalcino is relatively small, only about 3,000 hectares where Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino are produced,” explains Margherita Mascagni, Sales Manager of Argiano, one of the region’s traditional estates. “What is special about Montalcino is that the purity of Sangiovese has been preserved in the appellations and this gives the wines a distinctive character.”

Sangiovese Savvy

As with any winemaking region, there is a combination of factors which make Brunello di Montalcino so prized. These are particularly favourable for the preservation of the purity of the local Sangiovese grape, known for its larger (grosso) berries. “Montalcino is so good because it has a special richness and variety of soils and microclimate which can express the sensitivity of Sangiovese,” notes Mascagni. Though wines of different styles are produced in this small area, “all express the best potential of the Sangiovese varietal”.

The rich composition of the soil is key in the depth of the Brunello di Montalcino flavour profile – a mixture of clay, limestone and marl. It is on the southern- and southwestern-facing slopes of the region’s vineyards that the grapes can fully ripen. Many are located at high altitude – between 200 and 600 metres above sea level – and thus enjoy a cooler climate. This helps to preserve the natural acidity of the grapes, aiding the balance and natural longevity of the wines.

Age Matters

The area produces two main wines, the flagship Brunello, and Rosso di Montalcino. The Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) was only established in 1984, partly to generate cash flow for the local estates since this wine can be released onto the market earlier: only a minimum of six months in oak barrels and one year ageing in total are required. It is made from 100% Sangiovese grown in the same region as the longer aged (two years in oak, four years total), more established and more prestigious Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) reds.

According to Mascagni, Rosso boasts “the youngest, freshest expression” and is blessed with a “very easy drinking style”. On occasion, some producers will make only this wine instead of allocating some of their grapes to Brunello, especially in less than ideal vintages.

Similarly, Brunello comprises exclusively Sangiovese grapes, with no foreign varietals allowed in its production. Mascagni highlights how this wine has more structure and ageing potential, though she does point out that “most Brunellos are elegant and quite enjoyable when young”.

Brilliant Brunellos  

With its historic hill settlements, undulating terrain and dense lush forests, Mascagni not only adores the scenery in this part of Tuscany, but also the elegant Sangiovese wines that emerge from its cellars. Founded in 1580, Argiano is one of the oldest wine producers in Italy and she is partial to its style of Brunello particularly in recent years, with its “gentle extraction of tannins and expression of the limestone in the soil with a lot of savoury mineral taste and fresh fruit”.

After much deliberation, she names the estate’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo as her favourite wine. It has a special floral touch at the nose, which makes it “always very recognisable in tastings, even right after the harvest”.

She notes, enthusiastically: “Old vines of 60 years give the wine a unique complexity of aromas, like Mediterranean orange-peel notes. Its soil of oceanic marl imparts a long, savoury finish and very elegant tannic structure.”

Sardinia has a long history of viticulture, but its reputation within the wine community has only recently borne fruit. The wooded, mountainous island off the west coast of Italy offers a myriad of microclimates conducive to the production of a wide variety of fine pours. It forms one of 20 Italian wine regions and numbers among the most beautiful in the country.

Part of the reason the island’s winegrowers previously flew under the radar is that for many years they made blending wines for other regions, according to Jacopo Bacci of Bacci Wines, a family company with extensive interests in Tuscany and beyond. He says successful wineries have now discovered the potential of the Sardinian terroir and the world is taking notice.

Bacci praises the geographical diversity of the island, believing it offers enterprising producers the potential for picking and developing their wine preference. “What is very interesting about the Sardinian terroir is that you find a large variety of soils and elevation that link to the different exposures, making this land a great place where you can build your wine style,” he reveals.     

Isolation thanks

In Mamoiada, a remote village in the central eastern province of Nuoro, winemaking has been practised for centuries. The locals – many of whom are centenarians in this renowned ‘Blue Zone’ of exceptional longevity – can count the numerous blessings of their location, including the existence of rare heritage vines that date back more than 100 years. The area’s isolation saved it from phylloxera that ravaged the vineyards of Europe in the 19th century.

Among Sardinia’s more than 100 indigenous grape varieties, Cannonau takes precedence here. This red grape flourishes in the rocky granitic soil situated from 400 metres to 900 metres above sea level. There is also a small production of white Granazza.

Bacci echoes the uniqueness of Mamoiada as a hub for winemakers. “It is a small wine area of around 350 hectares located at 700 metres above the sea level. The granitic soil and high elevation give Cannonau a unique finesse and complexity,” he says, while also highlighting the grand old age of the vines.

Individual style

The breadth of offerings even in such a small area means it is difficult to pinpoint a particular taste profile. “From my experience in the region, the Cannonau from Mamoiada doesn’t have a standardised taste; every producer has his own style.” he explains. “Mostly, the wines are produced from a single parcel with natural fermentation, so it is really difficult to describe a flavour profile for all the region.”

One of the wines Bacci has come to appreciate during tastings in the area is Vike Vike Cannonau di Sardegna. “The wine is a little bit closed at first, but after a few minutes you can get the flavours of raspberry and roses with peppery notes,” he notes. “The vintages that I have tried are all full-bodied but not over mature. The taste is balanced with a good long final and very good tannins.”

Age of excitement

The Bacci family produces its own wine in Mamoiada, Blue Zone, an exciting project which he says is now yielding encouraging results. It has presented challenges, particularly the inability to work the vineyards by machine. Every process is done by hand or using cows, and production is limited to 3,000 bottles a year using Cannonau grapes from different parcels of historic vineyards located at 800 metres above sea level.

 “We have decided to respect the old way of cultivating the vineyard, even trying to be more accurate to ensure the vines an extra-long life,” says Bacci. Theirs is a wine style more oriented to freshness, so they harvest early, use spontaneous fermentation to highlight the indigenous flavours, and are light with the wood.  

 “At the nose, Bacci Blue Zone has aromas of violets, peaches, oranges and blackberries. Everything is very fresh,” he notes. “The structure of the wine is medium- to full-bodied with a good component of fresh fruit and light spiciness. The finish is fresh, long and slightly savoury.”