Andes Aromas:Wines from Argentina’s high-altitude heaven come to earth with fresh fruit and minerality

Argentina has regained its position as one of the world’s premier winemaking regions. The practice initially developed in the 19th century, fuelled by the skills and knowhow of wine-loving immigrants from Spain and Italy. In 2023 Argentina ranked as the eighth-largest wine producer globally.

Most of the viticulture lies in the western expanse of the country, in the foothills of Andes. It is the pours from the northwest of this vast South American country that particularly appeal to Constanza Cabello, Wine Development Manager in Hong Kong of 67 Pall Mall, which operates private members’ clubs for wine lovers in various locations throughout the world. “My favourite wine regions of Argentina are found in the north,” she says. “Valles Calchaquies, Quebrada de Humahuaca and Valles Templados – the wines from this area are, in my opinion, terroir wines.”

High respect

Here, in the provinces of Catamarca, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy, are some of the world’s highest-planted vineyards. Those in the Calchaqui Valleys, the most prolific of the north’s wine regions, soar in altitude from 1,500 to 3,100 metres.

A number of factors drives the essence of the wines produced in the northern highlands. “What really determines the style of wine are the high-altitude vineyards, the poor soils with different kinds of minerals, and the number of sunny days – around 300 per year in the case of Cafayate [in Salta],” says Cabello. “However, without doubt the human factor is the most important,” she opines, referring to the many years of human capital accrued in a knowledge bank of the finer techniques of winemaking.

Indeed, in Cabello’s eyes, the social aspect of this northern corner of Argentina is the overriding element nurturing the quality of its wines. It contributes significantly to the excellence demonstrated in the art of viticulture while harnessing its cultural life in general. “I believe this region is the essence of Argentina, the last living cultural spot that we have, that can show who we are, and where we came from,” she stresses of her homeland.

Criolla of the wild

The seasoned wine professional spotlights the leading varietals grown up high, including Malbec and some Tannat, as well as the white Torrontés, one of the Criolla group of native Argentinian grapes. She points to an increasing number of single-variety Criolla wine emerging from the area in recent years.

“One of my favourite producers is Francisco Puga y Familia, a small winery owned by ‘Paco’ Puga, a renowned winemaker in the region,” shares Cabello. “He holds a small vineyard in Tolombón, south of Cafayate [in the Calchaqui Valleys] and is full of passion and love for his terroir.”

She praises the Francisco Puga y Familia Corte de Blancas ‘Viejos Parrales’, a blend of Torrontés, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc from old pergola vineyards, explaining that Torrontés is a very aromatic grape which infuses this wine with notes of white flowers and fresh white grapes. “It is something to try and give a chance to the white wines coming from Argentina!” she enthuses.

Her other go-to winery is Bodegas El Bayeh, located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley. The family-run enterprise is devoted to crafting small batches of landscape wines reflecting the ravine’s terroir. Respecting the environment to achieve wines of purity and expression, they practise sustainable viticulture through the growth of healthy grapes, natural fermentation and minimal intervention in the winemaking process.

Finding the plot

“El Bayeh Pequeños Parceleros de la Quebrada is a single-region Criolla from different villages within the Quebrada de Humahuaca,” notes Cabello. These are old-vine Criollas, planted more than 100 years ago and cultivated by local villagers on plots of varying altitudes.

“Criolla enters the category of light-body fresh wines, something not generally associated with Argentinian production at the moment,” she reveals. “This is a local grape variety of fresh fruit infused with mineral notes and fresh acidity” able to express the minerality of the diverse soils found in the northern reaches of the country.

Sardinian Splendour: Old vines in remote Mamoiada yield wines that are now on the lips of the world

Sardinia has a long history of viticulture, but its reputation within the wine community has only recently borne fruit. The wooded, mountainous island off the west coast of Italy offers a myriad of microclimates conducive to the production of a wide variety of fine pours. It forms one of 20 Italian wine regions and numbers among the most beautiful in the country.

Part of the reason the island’s winegrowers previously flew under the radar is that for many years they made blending wines for other regions, according to Jacopo Bacci of Bacci Wines, a family company with extensive interests in Tuscany and beyond. He says successful wineries have now discovered the potential of the Sardinian terroir and the world is taking notice.

Bacci praises the geographical diversity of the island, believing it offers enterprising producers the potential for picking and developing their wine preference. “What is very interesting about the Sardinian terroir is that you find a large variety of soils and elevation that link to the different exposures, making this land a great place where you can build your wine style,” he reveals.

Isolation thanks

In Mamoiada, a remote village in the central eastern province of Nuoro, winemaking has been practised for centuries. The locals – many of whom are centenarians in this renowned ‘Blue Zone’ of exceptional longevity – can count the numerous blessings of their location, including the existence of rare heritage vines that date back more than 100 years. The area’s isolation saved it from phylloxera that ravaged the vineyards of Europe in the 19th century.

Among Sardinia’s more than 100 indigenous grape varieties, Cannonau takes precedence here. This red grape flourishes in the rocky granitic soil situated from 400 metres to 900 metres above sea level. There is also a small production of white Granazza.

Bacci echoes the uniqueness of Mamoiada as a hub for winemakers. “It is a small wine area of around 350 hectares located at 700 metres above the sea level. The granitic soil and high elevation give Cannonau a unique finesse and complexity,” he says, while also highlighting the grand old age of the vines.

Individual style

The breadth of offerings even in such a small area means it is difficult to pinpoint a particular taste profile. “From my experience in the region, the Cannonau from Mamoiada doesn’t have a standardised taste; every producer has his own style.” he explains. “Mostly, the wines are produced from a single parcel with natural fermentation, so it is really difficult to describe a flavour profile for all the region.”

One of the wines Bacci has come to appreciate during tastings in the area is Vike Vike Cannonau di Sardegna. “The wine is a little bit closed at first, but after a few minutes you can get the flavours of raspberry and roses with peppery notes,” he notes. “The vintages that I have tried are all full-bodied but not over mature. The taste is balanced with a good long final and very good tannins.”

Age of excitement

The Bacci family produces its own wine in Mamoiada, Blue Zone, an exciting project which he says is now yielding encouraging results. It has presented challenges, particularly the inability to work the vineyards by machine. Every process is done by hand or using cows, and production is limited to 3,000 bottles a year using Cannonau grapes from different parcels of historic vineyards located at 800 metres above sea level.

“We have decided to respect the old way of cultivating the vineyard, even trying to be more accurate to ensure the vines an extra-long life,” says Bacci. Theirs is a wine style more oriented to freshness, so they harvest early, use spontaneous fermentation to highlight the indigenous flavours, and are light with the wood.

“At the nose, Bacci Blue Zone has aromas of violets, peaches, oranges and blackberries. Everything is very fresh,” he notes. “The structure of the wine is medium- to full-bodied with a good component of fresh fruit and light spiciness. The finish is fresh, long and slightly savoury.”

High Italian: Alta Langa’s reputation for producing some of the best bubbles outside of Champagne is rising

Born on the slopes of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti provinces in Piedmont, north-western Italy, the wines of Alta Langa have fizzed into prominence in recent years. The Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG, created in 2011, is a relative newcomer in the region and the first to make quality sparkling wines from the ‘Champagne grapes’ of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the traditional method popularised by the great French houses.

Erika Abate, Export Manager of Enrico Serafino, a fine producer of Alta Langa sparkling wines as well as the renowned Piedmont reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, has spent her whole adult life sampling the area’s vinicultural delights. She says the wines here exude an elegant character with a certain “over-the-top potential” that is best appreciated by a discerning palate. The hillside soils in this higher part of the Langhe wine region also allow the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to express their full potential.

“The Alta Langa is the only area where sparkling wine production has a minimum elevation of 250 metres above sea level, 30 months’ minimum ageing on lees and mandatory vintage on the label,” she notes, referring to the defining characteristics of this fast-rising bubbly and the shortest time it must be left in contact with leftover yeast sediment prior to secondary fermentation.

Perfect pedoclimate

Abate points out that grape varieties with exceptional potential need perfect conditions in which to grow. “The two varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, have adapted so well in some areas of Piedmont, testifying to the fact that this is exceptional land not only for red wines but also for sparkling wines,” she says.

In the pursuit of excellence in the Alta Langa appellation, the soil-exposure-altitude mix that creates a vineyard’s pedoclimate must be studied carefully. Analysis of soils that can be difficult to cultivate and optimisation of the region’s unique climatic conditions are essential to get the best results from the Pinot Noir grape – a process often requiring specific experience and expertise in the Méthode Traditionelle. “Each stage of the ‘method’ offers opportunities but also great risks,” she notes.

Seabed sediment

She explains that soil origin is key to winemaking success in the wider Piedmont region. “The sedimentary soil of the Langhe originates from the Ligurian-Piedmontese Tertiary Basin that was created from the collision of the European and African plates,” she reveals, indicating that sediments can now be found which developed on the seabed between 12 and five million years ago during the Miocene era.

“Over this time, the sea and the basin conditions changed dramatically and these changes are visible in the rock layers and the various geological formations. The presence of fish fossils and planktonic microorganisms, visible because of shifting soils, shows the richness of life and gave birth to its natural treasures.”

Varietal character

The main wines produced in Piedmont are the Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera reds, along with some extraordinary whites such as Gavi and Arneis, and sparkling Alta Langa. “My favourite wines are from the Alta Langa, Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Gavi appellations,” shares Abate. “I love the Alta Langa for their elegance, crispy acidity and the freshness that these wines can maintain over the years.”

The uniqueness of pours derived from numerous grapes also appeals. “I love Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cortese because these are very terroir-sensitive grapes with a pleasant acidity and minerality, and a unique personality giving harmony to the other elements.”

Abate praises the skilled winemakers in her favourite appellations for coaxing the best qualities from the soil and grapes. “They are bringing out varietal character of these grapes with an extraordinary longevity and tannins that are typical indicators of age ability. Moreover, they are great wines to be paired with food and always give a sense of place whenever you are,” she enthuses.

Fine China: Chinese wine producers have upped their quality to challenge the French classics that inspired them

Wine produced in China received an initial boost when prestigious French names brought their expertise and financial clout to the table 40 years ago. Since those early days, winemaking in the mainland has grown considerably; it is now noted for its variety and, increasingly, its quality.

Crucial backing

Just Wong, Executive Director of Beverage Operations at Wynn Macau, attributes the remarkable growth of the Chinese wine industry over the past decade to central government investment in the major wine regions in the late 1990s. He also highlights an upshot of professional expertise over recent years, such as at universities, enabling new generations of wine-industry professionals with easier access to information, knowledge and expertise. “The market primarily targets mainland Chinese consumers who are adventurous and open to try new products, including a younger consumer group,” he says.

Award Wynners

Last year, the luxury Macau hotel hosted the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards, which served as a platform for wine experts from various regions in China to collaborate, exchange knowledge and promote Chinese wines on a larger international stage. Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 from Ningxia was the competition’s brightest star, garnering the Best Wine of China Trophy. Its quality so impressed during rigorous judging that it was also awarded the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia.

Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021, also from Ningxia, won two trophies, Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco-Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 from Hebei was hailed as Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China.

Bettering the French

According to Master of Wine Richard Hemming, the quality of wine in China is clearly improving, especially at the top end of the market. “This is thanks to significant investment, plus the increasing experience of producers,” he says. “With every vintage, they are learning more about what works best for their terroir.”

Like the vast majority of the so-called New World wines, most of the best wines from China are produced according to classic European techniques. “I’ve been in blind tastings where Chinese wines have beaten established French classics, so there is no question that the excellence is already there,” states Hemming, who also serves as Head of Wine for Asia at 67 Pall Mall, a group of private members’ clubs exclusively for wine lovers. This uplift in the quality of Chinese output comes at a time when global wine output is falling and competitive pressures are intensifying – market dynamics which could affect the growth of the industry. “I think growth will continue but at a slower rate,” opines the Singapore-based MW. “Around the world, consumption is falling and global trade outlooks are uncertain, so there is understandable caution about investing in wine production. Even so, the individual passions of producers will ensure that new, exciting wines continue to emerge from China.”

Pick of the crop

Given that so many Chinese growers are making great wines in numerous different styles, Hemming does not have a single favourite wine from the country. “I’ve tasted more wine from Ningxia than anywhere else, which shows that quality can be achieved in everything from classic bottle-fermented sparkling to expressive Pinot Noir to powerful Bordeaux blends,” he says. The superb wines of Ao Yun and Célèbre underscore Yunnan’s reputation as a region of great potential. “The former combines forthright black fruit with impressive earthy complexity as it ages, while the latter offers an orchard-full of fruit as well as a gastronomic chalkiness that bears comparison with some of the best of Burgundy,” says Hemming.

Lombardy Sparkle: Franciacorta’s quality bubbles are sparking a real buzz in the wine world

Located in the province of Brescia in Lombardy, Italy, the spectacular wine region of Franciacorta has blossomed into one of the gems of global viticulture. This tiny area is famed for the quality of its sparkling wines, whose most enthusiastic devotees say are a match for some of the finest Champagnes. It is exactly 30 years since these remarkable bubbles – produced using the traditional method – were awarded full DOCG classification, Italy’s top rank of wine-producing regions.

Though the area is situated in southern Europe, which is generally blessed with a warm climate, many of the vineyards are planted near the southern shores of Lake Iseo in the foothills of the Alps. Temperatures here are dampened by cold air descending from the mountain slopes, preventing the fruit from over-ripening in the sun. The lakeside locale is crucial in moderating this effect, providing a micro-climate suited to making some of the world’s best sparkling wines. Ultimately, the unique geography of the area enables the high level of acidity required for top-quality fizz.

Sparkling star

Alex Wai, Sommelier at Grissini, one of Hong Kong’s most prestigious Italian restaurants, reveals the area’s rolling hills were shaped by glacial action. He praises its glacial moraine soil, comprising gravel and sand over limestone, as ideal for the cultivation of grapes.

Wai says the reputation of the Franciacorta wine region has surged over recent years. He is fond of Franciacorta’s graceful ‘blanc de blancs’ style bubbles, which showcase the unique regional style. His favourite, though, is Essence Noir produced by Antica Fratta.

Describing the character of this wine, he notes: “It is a pure expression of Pinot Nero from the Franciacorta area – complex on the palate but offering an underlying elegance in style.”

Ancient modernity

The Antica Fratta project was launched in 1979 by Franco Ziliani, who pioneered the first Franciacorta winery, Guido Berlucchi. Desiring to create a new high-quality sparkling wine that would be distinct from the original estate and not interfere with existing operations, Ziliani drew upon the splendours of the newly renovated 19th-century cellars of a beautiful villa in the Fratta area of Monticelli Brusati.

Realising his vision, Antica Fratta has evolved to produce superior sparkling wines. The delicate Essence Satèn is particularly noteworthy, being made entirely from white grapes – Chardonnay, albeit with the allowance of some Pinot Bianco.

“Our Essence line is a vintage wine that has spent a minimum of three to four years in contact with the yeast before its dégorgement, and more than a year in bottle,” says Cristian Maddelana, a leading Italy-based wine consultant who has long advised the estate.

Black magic

In Franciacorta like other regions around the world, the pervasive effect of climate change and warming temperatures is threatening the fine balance that enables great wines to be produced. Careful management of the vines and harvest times has been necessary to maintain quality, but one side effect has been that black grapes such as Pinot Nero now fare better than before. Antica Fratta now produces a ‘blanc de noirs’ style made entirely from this famous Bourgogne varietal (where it is called Pinot Noir), the aptly named Essence Noir.

Maddelana says the production at the Antica Fratta estate is now focused on this style made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. “This technical characteristic, combined with the terroir-driven expression of the Pinot Noir from our region, makes the wine creamy and structured on the nose, with a golden colour, yet expressing with freshness and finesse on the palate – all of this underpinned by its minerality and acidity,” he enthuses.

Down to Earth: Coonawarra’s terrific terra rossa is at the root of its world-class wines

The Coonawarra region has played a major role in the transformation of Australia’s wine industry over recent decades. It is situated in the southeast corner of South Australia on the Limestone Coast with the tiny town of Coonawarra at its heart.

The region has garnered a fine reputation for producing Cabernet Sauvignon wines. “It is a region that has often been compared to Bordeaux in terms of its climate, in terms of its temperature, its growing degree days,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.

The area possesses a cooler climate compared to much of Australia and since the sea is only about 60 kilometres away, it falls under a maritime influence. However, it is the soil in the Coonawarra wine region that is widely considered its defining characteristic – and the reason why it has become so adept at making outstanding wines.

Top soil

Italian for red soil, Coonawarra’s famed terra rossa is a permeable light clay over a weathered limestone base that drains well, providing ample air for the vine roots to thrive.

Dutton shares that Penfolds has dug a soil pit in one of its Coonawarra vineyards to view and analyse the amazing soil profile in finer detail. “Across all of the different layers, you’ve got this lovely warm red terra rossa – red soil, a dust almost,” she says.

“This soil profile gives a real sense of place for all wines from Coonawarra and it’s distinctive,” she explains, crediting its unique makeup for the area’s ability to produce premium wines. “These are A-grade wines at the top end of the tree,” she enthuses.

Big three

Aside from Penfolds wines produced in Coonawarra, Dutton admires the output of Wynns Coonawarra Estate and wines from Katnook Estate, especially their recent “very strong” vintages. Receiving her seal of approval, she states: “These are wines that are in my own cellar. They’re probably the big three for me.”

“One of the winemakers that I really admire in Coonawarra is Sue Hodder, the Chief Winemaker for Wynns,” she says. “Wynns are famous for making medium-bodied Cabernets, in particular, that are elegant, a little bit lighter, less heavy and less tannic, but still capable of ageing.”

Dutton also admires the way Hodder has continued to push boundaries and get better and better for Wynns.

Vine age

A recent addition to the Penfolds collection is a particular favourite – the 2021 Bin 180 released to mark the estate’s 180th anniversary. “It is a blend of both Cabernet and Shiraz blocks, which were both planted in the ’60s and ’70s,” she elaborates. “So not only are they planted in the unique terra rossa soils of Coonawarra, but they’ve got vine age on them now as well.

“For wines made from older vines, it’s a little bit like people sometimes – with age you’ve got wisdom, you’ve got character. They are unafraid to express themselves at that stage,” she explains. “The old vine material; a quintessential Australian blend; and the fact that it’s from Coonawarra – this is the trio that brings Bin 180 together.”

Bonded by soil

Coonawarra wines are tied by a common thread, according to Dutton. They are bonded by the region’s unique soil profile and its influence on the tastes and aromas of the wines produced.

“[When describing these wines] I often talk about brick dust in terms of texture – more of a powdery, dusty tannin profile rather than too chalky or blocky for the bigger tannins,” she emphasises. “I also see a lot of savoury notes come through from Coonawarra. By savoury, I mean non-fruit descriptors. I might talk about cured meat, pink peppercorn, dried herbs, sage [and] bay leaf.”

Freedom to Rhone: From Hermitage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there’s plenty to savour in this red valley

The beautiful Rhône wine region in southern France has been making wine since the Roman times and its reputation has blossomed over recent years. Stretching down from Vienne to Avignon and carpeted with vineyards, this famous valley has two separate sub-regions with distinct viticultural traditions – the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône.

Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône are two completely different regions, insists Master of Wine Richard Hemming, speaking of one of his favourite winemaking areas. “The north is famous for making reds from Syrah, usually unblended, while the south blends more than a dozen different varieties to make a wide range of styles – including, most famously, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,” he says.

The two sub-regions are noted for having contrasting climatic conditions, thus affecting the types of grapes that will thrive.

Continental influences in the north can produce harsh winters and warm summers, while in the south the weather patterns are governed by a Mediterranean climate, with milder winters and hot summers.

Power play

Singapore-based Hemming, who serves as Head of Wine, Asia, for the 67 Pall Mall group of wine-loving private members’ clubs, is quite forthright in the appeal of the region’s wines. “The Rhône is all about power, but that doesn’t necessarily mean full-bodied,” he says. “Syrah from the north has intense black fruit but can be surprisingly perfumed too, with peppercorn and violet aromas.”

Comparing the northern wines with the tastes and aromas of its sister sub-region, he notes: “In the south, flavours are more like ripe red fruit, with sweet spices and often a herbal scent which is attributed to garrigue – the herbal scrub that grows naturally in and around the vineyards.”

The vast majority of wines are red, though both the north and south also produce whites, and he reveals that these are growing in popularity and prominence. “It’s this eclectic variation in styles that makes the Rhône such a rich region to discover,” he says.

Rhône reasons

According to Hemming, there is no one single overriding reason why the Rhône wine region produces such outstanding wines. “Like all great wine regions, it’s a combination of factors,” he says, citing its long winemaking tradition and evolving combination of variety, soil and climate.

Sense of mystery

He opines that some factors are simply unknowable, and pinpoints an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the Northern Rhône by way of example. “There is a degree of mystery: why does Hermitage create the most complex Syrah in the world? There’s no single answer to this kind of question – and it’s that which keeps us coming back for more.”

Hemming says the “humble” Côtes du Rhône appellation produces the most important wine in the region in terms of sheer volume. “In both red and white – and even rosé – for my money this is the best-value classic wine you can find.” One of his favourite tipples from the valley is Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône red, which has been his long-standing “bargain weekday treat”.

World class

When considering the reputation of a wine, he cites Châteauneuf-du-Pape as the most famous red of the Southern Rhône, due to its global recognition. “However, Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, both from the Northern Rhône, while much smaller in size, are also world-renowned among wine lovers,” he adds.

“[Domaine Jean-Louis] Chave Hermitage represents the best-of-the-best for Syrah and is still good value if you compare it to top Burgundy and Bordeaux,” he enthuses. “For an undiscovered choice, I love the reds of Duché d’Uzès, a blend of Syrah and Grenache from the Southern Rhône.”

Super Tasmanians: Grapes from the island state have transformed Australian Chardonnay and gripped the wine world

Being situated at a far more southerly latitude has blessed Tasmania with a cooler climate and rendered it much distinct from other areas of viticulture in Australia. This gives the wines made in the island state unique characteristics compared to those across the country’s continental landmass. Popular grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

“In between Tasmania and Antarctica is nothing except for the Antarctic Ocean, so it’s an incredibly cool climate, which is fantastic for Chardonnay, in particular, but Pinot Noir and sparkling wine production as well,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.

Southern cool

Explaining its attraction for viticulturalists, she notes: “What people should really understand is that whilst Tasmania is cool and lies to south, it’s actually still quite dry, which are perfect conditions for growing grapes.”

She opines that the best examples of Australian Chardonnay herald from Tasmania. These super Tasmanian whites stand in contrast to the rest of Australia’s winemaking history with Chardonnay.

“Once upon a time, like 20 years ago, maybe more, our Chardonnays were incredibly ripe. They were buttery, often quite deep in colour and full of oak, and rarely would they age,” she says. “The big shift that happened in the Australian wine industry is we started to look at some cooler climate regions for that variety.”

Full pleasure

Dutton believes the cool climate of Tasmania and the dry conditions that lead to fairly safe growing seasons are a brilliant match for Chardonnay. “We get Chardonnay wines that are full of grip and structure, but also finesse and elegance,” she says. “[Chardonnays] should be intense; they should be full, but they should also show restraint and raciness, and Tasmania does that.”

Penfolds has vineyards in the prime wine regions of South Australia including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley and Coonawarra. It also owns vineyards in northern and southern Tasmania and partners with growers in the state. More than 85% of grapes in some vintages of its flagship Yattarna Chardonnay are sourced from Tasmania. Though technically not labelled as hailing from Tasmania, the state “has played more and more a pivotal role in this Yattarna production”.

Citrus and cream

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay is one of her favourite wines and she quickly recalls its beautiful, mouthwatering combination of tastes. “I always see this lovely what I call citrus curd, like lemon meringue pies, lemon tarts and lime tarts, where you’ve got both citrus and creaminess all coming together at once,” she says. “We often talk about the nougat with Yattarna, and I see it as still being quite fresh, almost like a pistachio nougat that comes through for the wine.” She also highlights the excellence of the Tasmanian Chardonnays emanating from Pooley Wines in the Coal River Valley and Derwent Estate in the Derwent Valley, both located in southern Tasmania, not far from the capital, Hobart.

Tannic grip

“These are wines that I really admire for the phenolic grip, their structure, and by that I mean how the wine feels in terms of shape in the mouth,” she says. “You don’t want anything that is too buttery. You don’t want anything that is too soft or oily, but you also don’t want anything that’s too firm and tight.” She likes to talk about the bones of a wine – the skeleton, its structure, the framework that is holding it together. “Both of these wines have this amazing structure. Indeed, all three of my favourites share the common thread that they are built for age-ability,” she says.

Barossa Ambrosia: While the whites entice, red is the valley in Australia’s most revered wine region

Steeped in winemaking history, the Barossa Valley is home to some of Australia’s most renowned wineries and vineyards. Located northeast of Adelaide in South Australia, the storied region was planted by English and German settlers and boasts remarkable old vines dating back to the 1840s.

“Community is very much at the heart of this region, and it is the combination of community spirit, old-world vines and generational family grape growers that really makes it special for me,” says Con Simos, Research and Development Manager at Casella Family Brands, Australia’s largest family-owned wine company.

Winemaker’s paradise

He says: “It’s blessed with diverse terroir, including eight major types of soil, a range of altitudes and some of Australia’s oldest vines.” Embracing both warm-climate and cool-climate growing conditions and a diverse range of soils “makes it ideal for producing a wide variety of wines, from powerful, full-bodied reds to elegant white wines. The Barossa Valley is a winemaker’s paradise!”

Those rich, full-bodied wines are Shiraz, for which the region has garnered a prodigious reputation around the globe. “The age of its Shiraz vines adds a layer of heritage and depth, contributing to their distinctive character and longevity,” says Simos. He also notes that the Eden Valley sub-region produces phenomenal Riesling. Cooler temperatures in this elevated locale contribute to the crafting of vibrant, aromatic Rieslings with a unique expression of the terroir.

Sensational Shiraz

But it’s the world-class Shiraz that continue to grab the headlines. Peter Lehmann’s Stonewell, for instance, stands alongside Penfolds and Henschke as pillars of excellence in the Barossa Valley. “Red wines like the revered Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace highlight the depth, complexity and age-worthiness that have made Barossa wines legendary on the global stage,” says Simos.

First up of Simos’ favourite Barossa pours is one of the names under the Casella Family Brands umbrella, the 2017 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz. “The secret to Stonewell Shiraz is the outstanding quality of what our founder, Peter Lehmann, refers to as ‘little black jewels’ – grapes drawn exclusively from low-yielding vineyards that produce sparse bunches with tiny, but intensely flavoured fruit,” he notes.

Cool class

Simos suggests the 2017 vintage will be remembered for its exceptional elegance and purity of fruit. “The palate is rich with fine, pure tannins – an abundance of blueberry, violet, earth and clove. Long and blue-fruited, it demonstrates a cool vintage in the Barossa while retaining stereotypical fruit ripeness and intensity.” He adds: “The oak is seamlessly integrated, almost imperceptible.”

Stonewell Shiraz is an ideal pairing for rich meat dishes like roast beef, he proffers, and is equally enjoyable alongside cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, aged Cheddar and Grana Padano.

Another recommendation is 2018 Penfolds St Henri, which has seductive dark fruit and sweet plum aromas with dark chocolate and graphite. He hails its “inky and sinuous palate with plentiful ripe blackberry and mulberry, fine chalky tannins, superb mid-palate viscosity and underlying chinotto and roasted walnut notes”.

Rounding off his top three most-desired tipples is Henschke 2021 Tappa Pass. A resplendent dark crimson with violet hues in the glass, its fragrant nose opens to ripe plum, black cherry, blueberry, rose petal, anise and mace, with hints of black pepper, cedar, sage and charcuterie. “The palate is rich, plush and complex with blue fruit, mulberry, violets and plum, balanced by layers of fine velvety tannins delivering great depth and length,” he praises.

California Cleaning: Napa Valley has a depth of fruit beyond its star Cabernet Sauvignons

Napa Valley famously came to global prominence when its pours delivered outstanding results at the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976. Previously considered a winemaking backwater, this beautiful slice of California is now regarded as one of the world’s winemaking hotspots.

Robert Biale’s family has been involved in the area since the 1900s and he is still intimately connected with the wines produced here. “Napa Valley is a big name yet a very small place: it is 30 miles by five miles and sits one hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge with 47,000 planted acres and only 4% of California grapes,” he says.

The region benefits from cool nights and ocean breezes along with morning fog that combine to produce moderate temperatures. “Napa contains half of the world’s soil groups which allow multiple varieties to thrive,” adds Biale.

Zinfandel standouts

Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes are now most common, with Cabernet Sauvignon the king of the valley. This was not always the case, however. Prior to 1970, it was the heritage varieties of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah that populated Napa, having been planted from the mid-19th century.

Though Biale savours many Cabernets, like those from Spottswoode and Mayacamas, and Chardonnays such as Stony Hill and HdV, he much prefers the local Zinfandels because of their versatility for food pairing, their bright, fresh yet rich qualities, and their mouthwatering flavours.

Describing the tastes and aromas of his own Zinfandels from Robert Biale Vineyards, he highlights the layered notes of blackberry preserves, raspberry, violet, cocoa, anise and cherry wood on the nose, with flavours of plum, black cherry, baking spices, dried herbs and pomegranate. “They offer rich fruit, delicate acidity and a structure defined by well-ripened, fine-grained tannins,” he says.

Sunny highs

Richard Bischoff, a Certified Sake Professional, is also enthusiastic about Napa Valley wines. “For fans of Bordeaux wines, Napa is a place where fruit can reach its full potential, largely due to the sunny weather,” he says. Certainly, its dry Mediterranean climate and large diurnal shift from daytime highs to night-time lows allow the grapes to ripen slowly and keep their acidity.

Bischoff highlights the geographical dispersion of wines produced in the region, with the hotter northern Napa ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, and the cooler Los Carneros area better for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

“If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, then the Carneros region in southern Napa is a wonderful place for Burgundian-style wines, due to its proximity to the ocean breezes from the northern end of San Francisco Bay,” he stresses. “Napa wines tend to express the best combination of weather and terroir.”

Full fruit

For Bischoff, it is the fuller flavours of Napa wines compared to other regions that is the main characteristic of their superior quality. “Cabernets, to me, tend to really show flavours of blackberries, cherries and other dark fruits,” he says.

“The Sauvignon Blancs show aromas and flavours of tropical fruits, such as mango and pineapple, and are delicious on a hot summer day, while the Chardonnay can be full and rich, with aromas and flavours of lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanilla, especially if aged in French oak.”

He likes the elegance of the Biale Zinfandel, especially its iconic Black Chicken label. Another preferred choice is Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, which he praises as “just amazing”. He also believes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from Clos du Val are fantastic expressions of the region.