Victoria Rises: Head northeast of stately Yarra Valley to discover many more amazing Australian wines

Situated in northeast Victoria, the Rutherglen wine region is steeped in winemaking tradition, with family wineries dating back 150 years. The wineries are located just a short drive from the small town of Rutherglen, whose great gastro pubs and wine bars now draw in visitors.

More than Muscat

Blessed with a stable warm and dry climate, the region is traditionally noted for its sweet fortified wine styles. Rutherglen winemaker Michael Murtagh says: “It’s home of the world’s greatest Muscats and big smooth reds,” he says. “These are deliciously rich fortified wines and lovely smooth red wines.” Bold, dark and tannic Durif is a regional speciality; Shiraz and similar varieties also thrive.

Murtagh co-owns Buller Wines, one of the Rutherglen producers “driving to welcome new, younger wine explorers with crunchy Pinot Grigio, Prosecco and Pinot Noir”. He adds: “We seek out the red clay loams for planting the vines as these provide good drainage and are deep and rich.”

Apart from the climate and soil, he notes two other influences that play a critical role in the Rutherglen success story. Firstly, there is ample water from the Murray River for supplementary irrigation in the dry summers to negate vine stress. The Great Dividing Range, a series of mountains, plateaus and rolling hills stretching more than 3,500 kilometres, also plays a part by “shedding cold air at night, giving us cool nights and mornings for the vines to recover and develop fruit flavours”.

Glory of the glen

One of his favourite wines for occasional indulgence is the Buller Wines 1968 Calliope Rare Frontignac. “The sheer depth and cleanness, along with the extraordinary rareness of our single vineyard and vintage Frontignac make it a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” he notes of this fortified wine.

Murtagh reveals that Muscats can be young or old depending on the winemaker’s plans. “The older Muscats are like Mum’s Christmas pudding, spice and raisins on the nose rich, while being vibrantly layered and textured on the plate – fantastic rare treats to be savoured,” he says. “The younger Muscats are fresher fruit styles showing the grape’s fruitiness and cleanness – enjoy with dessert or that last cup of coffee before bed.”

Wines of the King

Murtagh also highlights the King Valley, an hour’s drive south of Rutherglen. Its advantageous Great Dividing Range location supports two unique microclimates. “The valley is very fertile – high rainfall, rich valley-floor sedimentary soils, and amazing ancient volcanic lava steep ridges on each side,” he says.

The high-altitude ridges are particularly suitable for Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay table wine showing “fruit-forward peach and nashi pear with crunchy natural acidity”, as well as premium sparkling cuvées.

A benefit of being up on the ridge is constant air movement for disease control. The rising sun hits the canopy early, drying it out and stimulating vine photosynthesis. “The ancient lava flows are incredibly fertile but act as sponges releasing water easily and creating the right amount of irrigation for the vineyards,” he explains. The less fertile, slightly warmer east-facing slopes on the valley floor are the perfect environment for riper white wines and later ripening varieties like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

The high life

Pinot Noir is Murtagh’s favourite cool-climate wine, the higher-elevation vineyards of the King Valley yield, in his view, truly great Pinot Noir.

“These wines are not deep red but lighter than traditional Aussie reds; spice and dark cherry dominate the nose, with some oak flavour for complexity. The palate is filled with sweet cherry fruit up front, and in the high-extreme vineyards they show a beautiful clean acidic finish.”

Exalted Malts: Whisky produced in the Scottish Highlands raises the bar for tipplers the world over

Among other attractions, Scotland is known throughout the world for its wonderful Scotch whisky. There has been something of a renaissance of the industry over recent years, and now there are about 140 distilleries producing Scotch, which can be malt whisky (made from malted barley) or grain whisky (unmalted barley, wheat, rye, maize), or a blend of the two. It must be aged in oak barrels for at least three years upon distillation.

The most prized of the types of Scotch whiskies is single malt, which as the name suggests is whisky produced wholly from malt in one distillery. Malted barley produces a richer, sweeter tipple than the spicier, more robust drink of its not-malted-grain cousin.

High quality

“The Highlands offer dramatically beautiful locations that yield distinctively bold and elegantly balanced whiskies,” says Keith Archer of Seeking Infinity Limited, a luxury assets firm specialising in art and whisky.

Archer believes the area is perfect for making whisky for a variety of factors. “Due to the Gulf Stream, the Highlands have a milder, damp marine climate compared to other Scottish regions. Longer summers are also better for barley production,” he points out.

Highland distilleries are often ideally located, taking advantage of the many coastal and inland locations. “Rivers like the Spey, Ness and Orchy provide soft, mineral-rich water from granite, sandstone and schist rock, which is an exceptional water source for whisky distilleries,” explains Archer.

Whisky galore

He highlights the diversity of the Highland whisky makers, from those producing lighter inland malts to others that he describes as “more robustly ocean-influenced coastal renditions”.

“The Glenmorangie distillery produces whisky that elicits delicate citrus flavours like orange and lemon with hints of vanilla and tropical fruit,” he says of the distillery founded in 1843 in Tain, in the far north of Scotland.

Fettercairn is located in the foothills of the Cairngorm mountain range and produces a single malt whisky that is “rich and creamy with butterscotch, honey, white chocolate and toasted nuts”.

At Glengoyne, a distillery not far from Glasgow, they use a slower distilling process than other brands, resulting in a supremely smooth single malt. Archer describes this tipple as “honeyed, floral and vanilla-laced with heather, apples and pears”.

To characterise the whisky produced at GlenDronach, founded in 1826 and one of Scotland’s oldest licenced distilleries, he turns to a Christmas theme. “Its flavours are rounded and full-bodied with raisins, prunes, Christmas cake and a Sherry-wine influence,” he says.

At the foot of the Central Highlands, in the heart of the scenic Perthshire countryside, is the distillery of Aberfeldy. According to Archer, its whisky is “light-bodied and floral with notes of honey, orange peel and creamy vanilla”.

Singular form

He is most partial to the following trio of Highland spirits: The Dalmore, Royal Brackla and Deanston.

Produced for over 180 years, the Dalmore is known for its depth and finesse that hails from hand-selected casks. “Dalmore has a complex structure with dates, prunes, maple and Sherry-soaked raisins plus hints of smoke,” says Archer. Royal Brackla – which has the honour of being one of the few distilleries granted a Royal warrant – produces whiskies of “delicate complexity with a light peat influence and notes of honey, citrus and orchard fruit like pears”. The single malt produced by Deanston also emits fruity tones, while appearing floral and subtly smoky on the palate as well “with pear drops, plums and hints of bonfire”.

Top Of The Pops: Uncorking a bottle of Champagne is a slice of the finest things in life

Champagne is synonymous with sparkling wine the world over, but the uniqueness of its precious provenance is stringently protected. Only sparkling wine made and bottled in the Champagne region in the traditional method can be called Champagne and no other bubbles come close as symbols of luxury and celebration.

Sara Checchi, Group Head Sommelier and Beverage Manager of restaurant group Maximal Concepts, has always been intrigued by Champagne due to its unique history, terroir and production techniques. The 50 years from 1670 to 1720 were a turning point for the region as this was when specific techniques for making sparkling wines were developed. Legendary Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon played a significant role in perfecting the méthod Champenoise, or the traditional method, in which wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide and thus the effervescence essential for its sparkling quality.

Aside from the fascinating history of the area, Checchi also adores the beauty of the landscape, its villages and “the breathtaking panoramic view over the vineyards”. The hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne were added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2015.

Climate impact

Checchi says Champagne benefits from a unique combination of both oceanic and continental climatic influences, being neither too cold in winter nor too hot in summer, in which grapevines used in making the region’s famed pour – predominately Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – thrive.

The soil in the area, located 90 miles east of Paris, also contributes in an incisive way. “Deep in Champagne subsoil are layers of sedimentary rocks composed of chalk, marl and limestone. This type of subsoil allows for good drainage,” explains Checchi.

She does warn, however, that the continental influences can lead to freezing temperatures in winter, bringing frosts that can be devastating for the vineyards, and this occasional occurrence makes Champagne a challenging wine-growing area.

Salon salute

Asked for her Champagne of choice, Checchi unhesitatingly plumps for Salon. “It is definitely my favourite Champagne!” she exclaims. “It is produced from a single grape variety, namely Chardonnay, and comes from a single great terroir – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru in the Côte des Blancs.”

This exceptional Champagne is only made in years when conditions are perfect. “Salon is produced just in the best vintages; little more than 35 vintages were produced in a whole century!” she says. “Doubtless this is not a bottle for daily consumption because of its price and the difficulty of its availability in the market.”

The thought of this rare pleasure makes every sip of “the experience memorable, every single time I get the chance to drink it”. She believes the wine has a magical, almost potent effect: “If eternal youth exists, Salon definitely knows its secret recipe!”

Despite Salon’s rarity, Checchi has savoured the tipple on enough occasions to be able to compare different vintages. “Even though I have had the honour of drinking many vintages from the maison, the one that is still in my heart is Salon 1997,” she reveals. She was extremely impressed by its youth when she tasted it in January 2020, yet “the nose is complex”.

Describing some of the tastes and aromas of her favourite vintage, she enthuses: “The 1997 is wonderfully refined, its minerality complemented by hints of white flowers. A salty note enhances aromas of bread crust, brioche with a little hint of green apple, and hazelnut.” Her appreciation becomes more infectious as she describes the mouthfeel, which “shows the very essence of Salon, dynamic and energetic. The mousse [sparkling-wine foam] caresses the tongue with the sensuality of silk, and there are rich and persistent flavours of ripe peach, honey and smoked tea.”

Great Wine of China: Chinese producers are winning over the world with their vibrant pours

China has produced wine from grapes for centuries, and in recent years the vast country has become one of the world’s largest consumers of wine. The fruits of each winemaking region have their own distinct characteristics, and many local wineries have developed strong ties with overseas viticulturalists.

Master of Wine Fongyee Walker, co-founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting and a specialist wine educator, can attest to the fact that many regions in China are crafting great wine.

Walker singles out three notable regions producing wines of character: Shandong for their gentle quality shaped by a maritime climate; Shangri- La in northwest Yunnan for the magnificent scenery and the freshness and vibrancy of its wines; and Xinjiang because of the vivacity of the culture “and the wonderful food that goes so well with the rich wines from that desert sun”.

Elegant Shandong

Winemaking in Shandong centres around Yantai on the northwest coast of the peninsula. “Shandong produces lovely wine,” says Walker. “The granite soils and the sea breezes coming off the bay allow so much of its coastal region to produce elegant wines.”

As a white-wine lover – “though not necessarily typical wines” – she is particularly fond of the gentle Chardonnays emanating from there, while the elegant Cabernet Francs with hints of leafiness also appeal. She notes: “It’s all about elegance, a refreshingness brought by that maritime acidity.”

Yunnan fruit

The mountain vineyards in Shangri-La reach as high as 3,000 metres, creating huge diurnal variation and giving the wines vibrant acidity and a pureness to their fruit. “That diurnal swing, those cold nights with very sunny days high up in the mountains, bring refreshing but ripe flavours,” she says.

Shangri-La reds excite the palate: “They produce really gorgeous Cabernets with a depth of fruit and a really refreshing mouthfeel,” she notes, adding: “Their Pinot Noir is a potential great star.” And speaking of her favourite whites: “Their Chardonnays are different from the Shandong style, and they offer a vibrancy of pure orchard fruit.”

Xinjiang riches

As for Xinjiang, Walker believes the desert landscape and crystal-clear sunshine have a profound effect on the quality of the wine produced, noting there is a warmth and beautiful roundness and richness in the wines there. “It’s hot, but this means that the red wines are full of fruit, and they have this wonderful, healthy fruitiness to them with beautiful tannins,” she says.

When China-based Walker travels to Xinjiang, she looks forward to pouring these rich reds, particularly the Syrah-Merlot blend. “It is so full of fruit and wonderful with the roast lamb of the area.” She is also partial to an Italian Riesling-style wine infused with green tea, which she describes as “a unique and favourite wine of mine. It has an aroma of jasmine flowers exploding.”

Perfect pairing

When planning a visit to Ningxia in north-central China, another key wine-growing area, she thinks of their beautiful Marselan grapes and how well these wines go with roasted Tan Yang lamb. The local Tan species of lamb is, she opines, “one of the most delicious lambs of the world. What a perfect match!”

Grape achievements

Walker was on the distinguished panel of judges including three Masters of Wine and three Master Sommeliers at the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards held in Macau last month. Significantly, the event gives valuable feedback to those who don’t win trophies. “It provides a roadmap for producers all across China with different styles of wine – how to go forward, how to improve and bring their wine to new levels of quality,” she says.

Winners revealed!

Following the rigorous judging process, Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 was honoured with the coveted Best Wine of China Trophy. Its exceptional quality also earned it the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021 won two trophies, including Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 received the Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China titles.

Chinese Wine Month

Wynn is set to host ‘Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Month’ promotion in May, a celebration of Chinese wine excellence with a symphony of global gastronomy. Throughout the month, guests can experience specially curated wine pairing tasting menus at Wynn’s prestigious dining venues, including Chef Tam’s Seasons, Lakeview Palace, SW Steakhouse and Mizumi at Wynn Palace as well as Golden Flower, Wing Lei, Lakeside Trattoria and Mizumi at Wynn Macau.

For a casual alternative, visitors can also participate in tasting flights featuring the prizewinning wines at Wynn’s various bars, including Palace Reserve Club, Cinnebar, Bar Cristal and Wing Lei Bar.

Super Sicilian: Springing from vineyards aplenty, Sicily’s splendid indigenous grapes are setting the wine world alight

The island of Sicily has become one of the most important wine-growing regions of Italy. It is the country’s largest in terms of planting with some 98,000 hectares under vine. A total of 4.8 million inhabitants make it the most populous island in the Mediterranean Sea.

It is known throughout the world as the home of Mount Etna, one of Europe’s most active volcanoes – whose soils happen to be ideal for the growth of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio (both red) and Carricante (white) grapes. Indeed, Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties are now widely appreciated by connoisseurs, who decades ago would only look to the island for Marsala, its famous fortified wine.

Island of extremes

“If you had to sum up Sicily in just a few words, it’s an island of extremes,” says Italian wine specialist Keti Mazzi, founder of Certa Wine Club. “Rocky volcanic coastlines give way to white sandy beaches. Crumbling architectural treasures of the ancient world sit next to some of the most theatrical and perfectly preserved paintings of the Baroque. It’s a cliché, but in Sicily, there’s truly something for everyone.”

Already a top-tier wine region in Italy, a country which itself is the largest producer of wine in the world, Sicily is poised for a new phase of expansion, believes Mazzi, as wine enthusiasts look for new territories and unexpected flavours.

Volcanic boost

Its fertile soil is primarily the result of an ongoing series of volcanic eruptions, and this, coupled with a pleasant climate, means it is perfect for making wine. Mazzi notes: “A true microcosm of Italy, Sicily can be described as a ‘viticultural continent’. Sicily is a continent for wine!”

Today, Sicily is primarily recognised for its Nero d’Avola and Grillo grapes, two local red and white varietals respectively that thrive across the diverse soils and growing conditions of the island.

Creamy white

Grillo had been used exclusively to produce Marsala in the past – in northwestern Sicily, an area granted Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status – but now stars in some of Sicily’s most recognisable labels. “It delivers a refreshing, fragrant white wine with aromas of tropical fruit and a rich, creamy structure,” says Mazzi.

She says the Nero d’Avola grape variety is similar in style to Syrah: “It is Sicily’s most prolific red grape and produces a medium-bodied elegant wine with red fruit flavours, notes of pepper and a nice acidity.” Other common grape varieties on the island include Catarratto, Inzolia (both white) and Frappato (red).

Red beauty

Having spent several wonderful years in Sicily, the island is close to Mazzi’s heart and she is fond of many of its wines. Her ultimate tipple from the region, though, is Rosso del Conte, a flagship red from eighth-generation producer Conti Tasca d’Almerita in the central highlands. Its grapes originate from San Lucio, the first ‘grande vigna’ (large vineyard) created on the Tenuta Regaleali estate in 1959.

Mazzi loves the aromas emanating from this Sicilian beauty, indicating it retains a certain subtleness to its offering. She says: “On the aromatic level, Rosso del Conte never exaggerates in overripe notes while guaranteeing full phenolic ripeness.”

She believes the wine is a faithful expression of its terroir, recalling the high hills in the heart of Sicily, while a special signature appeal is that two grape varieties, Perricone and Nero d’Avola – which have a similar vegetative root – coexist.

Mazzi admires how the wine develops over time. “It is exuberant, vibrant and energetic in its youth, and with ageing develops a velvety touch without losing structure and flavour,” she says.

Hawke’s High: The lowland and coastal hills of New Zealand’s second largest wine region offer Bordeaux-style pleasures

Located on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, Hawke’s Bay has garnered a world-class reputation for the quality of its wines.

Famed for its fruity, earthy reds and full- bodied Chardonnays, Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine-producing regions and its second-largest.

Viticulture vitality

“Summers are typically dry and warm and are followed by long autumns and relatively mild winters. This results in lengthy and consistent growing seasons, which are vital to viticultural excellence,” says Daniel Cheung, a freelance consultant in the food & beverage industry.

This benign weather system underscored by numerous geologically-young soil types enriched by centuries of volcanic activity contributes to one of the wine world’s most versatile areas. “The region makes an impressive array of wines, most notably Rhône- and Bordeaux-style reds that have good ageing potential,” notes Cheung.

Top draws

Cheung finds Hawke’s Bay particularly intriguing as it offers something different aside from the “star export of crisp, flinty Sauvignon Blanc”.

Powerful, aromatic expressions of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are particularly highly regarded. “Equally remarkable are full-bodied and robust Chardonnays that have lots of ageing potential, says Cheung.”

Cheung has become fascinated by how Hawke’s Bay’s vignerons make the most out of a region underpinned by a coastal influence, while also dealing with the complex mesoclimates of a varied topography.

“They’ve always had a focus on quality and diversity, along with a rich history of winemaking innovations. Producers there know the importance of employing sustainable viticultural practices,” he says, also noting the region’s world-class aspirations.

Great Gravels

He believes the wines have a unique spirit to them that is uplifting. “A perfect example would be the incredible tale of the subregion known as Gimblett Gravels – 600 hectares in size, with a soil structure that is stony, with a distinctive minerality and a fine, dusty character,” he says.

“Though the area wasn’t used for growing vines until the early 1990s – it was saved by the rejection of a mining application – it has since quickly risen to prominence for producing rich yet elegantly structured red wines that rank among the finest in the world.”

Superior Syrah

Cheung has a particular fondness for two wines emanating from the region. First up is Le Sol 2019 from Craggy Range, which was awarded New Zealand’s Winery of the Year 2023 by the prestigious The Real Review. “This is a top- notch 100% Syrah that’s now an icon wine of the Gimblett Gravels subregion,” he says.

Describing the tastes and aromas of one of his favourite tipples, he identifies its “dark, fruity nose with a good amount of focus and peppery warmth. Rounded and generous on the palate with a great long finish, this is a seductive Syrah.”

Crisp Chardonnay

Produced by the pioneering Brajkovich family, Kumeu River’s Rays Road Chardonnay 2020 is another Hawke’s Bay favourite of Cheung. He enthuses of this cellar-worthy wine: “Crisp and mineral-forward, this single vineyard Chardonnay is crafted in a Burgundian style. The citrusy bouquet complements its refined linear character, all of which culminate in a reverberant finish.”

Langhe Lasting: The noble Italian winemaking area where age-worthy reds rule

The Langhe, located in northwest Italy, is a hilly area that has attained international recognition for its deeply embedded and longstanding winemaking culture. It is a key part of the Piedmont region, which is officially designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. In the Langhe, two of the world’s pre-eminent red wines, namely Barolo and Barbaresco, are made purely from the native grape of Nebbiolo.

Red heaven

Matteo Ascheri is president of the Consortium for the Protection of Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani, an organisation which helped secure DOC status for Barolo and Barbaresco in 1966, and then, in 1980, their elevation to DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), Italy’s highest classification of wines.

Sip of royalty

Hailed as ‘The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings’ some 175 years ago, Barolo is a grand wine with the noblest of histories. “It was sipped in the courts of Europe,” says Ascheri. “It is now made in 11 communes in the vicinity of Barolo village and is enjoyed the world over for its glorious dark red appearance and its fruity and spicy power.”

He likens these aromas and tastes that “develop over a long, captivating finish” to “red berries, cherries in liqueur and jam; roses and violets; and cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg and vanilla. Occasionally liquorice, cocoa, tobacco and leather can be discerned on the nose and palate, too.”

Barolo producers must age their wine for a minimum of three years before bottling. To qualify as Barolo Riserva, it has to be aged for at least five years. “The pride of many collectors’ cellars, Barolo is a prized wine that benefits from long ageing, with 10 or 20 years considered the norm,” notes Ascheri.

Fruits and florals

Barbaresco arose in the pretty village of that name about 50 years later. Domizio Cavazza, a Barbaresco native and the first head of the Enology School of Alba, organised a collective of growers in 1894 to make wine solely from the Nebbiolo grape. “Barbaresco lures wine lovers with a stimulating bouquet of fruits and florals – including raspberries, red-berry jam, geraniums and violets – as well as hints of green pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, hay wood, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla and even aniseed,” says Ascheri.

“It must be aged for two years in oak before bottling and earns the title of ‘Riserva’ after four years. The wines are at their smoothest and most nuanced when aged from five to 10 years, though the best vintages can lie for longer.”

Vintage appeal

Ascheri points out that bottles of both these wines from superior vintages are often purchased to be cellared and treasured as valuable collectibles. Connoisseurs seeking more tangible delights will be tempted to open them on special occasions, though. “Barolo and Barbaresco are natural accompaniments to rich, hearty dishes like braised meat, aged cheese and truffles – another of the Langhe’s great gastronomic gifts to the world,” he says. He is a strong advocate of their sublime qualities, stating: “Befitting their classification as premier, age-worthy red wines, the robust, full-bodied Barolo, redolent with dark fruit, earth and spice, and the elegant, red-fruited and floral Barbaresco make unique gifts to be laid down and enjoyed at their prime.”

Mouth by South West: A patchwork of hidden vineyards in the French Sud-Ouest offers a rich range of wines

Southwest France has a long winemaking tradition with ancient grape varieties that predate the Romans. Stretching out from the foothills of the Pyrenees, the broad area of two administrative regions – Occitania and Nouvelle-Aquitaine – has a varied landscape and a wide range of highly specific vineyards and winemaking.

The mosaic of vineyards in the South West France wine region produces sparkling, white, rosé and red wines, all with different profile characteristics, according to Nicolas Eyquem, Head Sommelier at Black Sheep Restaurants.

Eyquem adores the natural beauty of the Sud-Ouest and delights in the diversity of wines in the region from appellations that are generally less well known like Irouléguy in the Northern Basque Country, Gaillac. Monbazillac, Cahors and Madiran and Fronton.

Franckly drinking

Eyquem is particularly fond of the wines from Franck Lihour. Lihour makes wine in the Jurançon appellation, located between the Pyrenees and the ocean. The estate covers 55 hectares with meadows, woods, cereal crops and 12 hectares of certified organic vineyards.

“Franck made the choice to isolate the plots of vines to produce single-vineyard wine – one dry, one sweet and three plots yielding his Caubeigt, Memòria and Tauzy wines. These are made with native grapes such as Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and reintegrated Petit Courbu and Camaralet in the blends,” says Eyquem.

He also applauds Lihour’s winemaking vision, using native yeast and adding a few sulphites only at bottling to keep the purity and the tension of the wines.

Pyrenees pleasure

Highlighting the talent and versatility of Sud- Ouest winemakers, Eyquem describes the tastes and aromas of some of his favourite wines from vineyards spread across the region.

First up is Pyrénées-Atlantiques wines, which are produced inland from Biarritz in the foothills of the mountain range. “The dry white wines from Irouléguy, Jurançon and Béarn are lively, vibrant and aromatic with exotic citrus and apricot flavours,” he says.

Moving on to the south of the Dordogne wine region, he favours “the red wines from Madiran, made with the Tannat grape, and Cahors from Malbec. They are dark in colour, robust, sometimes rustic, and concentrated, with black fruit dominant and a touch of spice.”

Gaillac sparkle

At Gaillac, a commune in the Tarn department, a méthode-ancestrale sparkling wine is made with the Mauzac grape. “The result is a semi-sparkling style of wine with a touch of sweetness, combined with dried apple-peel flavours,” says Eyquem.

According to the sommelier, Marcillac made from the unique Fer Servadou grape is the most famous wine from the patchwork of small appellations in Aveyron in the Massif Central. “It’s a lovely light red, juicy and peppery.”

Bergerac delights

He then highlights the sweet-wine appellations of Bergerac, “Using Bordeaux [grape] varieties, Monbazillac, Saussignac and Rosette are generating botrytized wines that are mellow with candied apricot, vanilla and honey flavours,” he says. He heartily recommends these wines, which are proudly offered on his wine list.

Exultantly Tuscan: Hilly terroir, plentiful rain and super wines characterise the beautiful Italian region

Regarded as the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Tuscany is steeped in culture and boasts a beautiful landscape and climate that is ideal for making wine. With a strong regional identity, the capital is the magnificent Florence, while other fantastic places in this tourist haven include Pisa with its leaning tower, Siena, Lucca and Grosseto. With a long-established winemaking tradition, famous wines in Tuscany include the Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti and Morellino di Scansano reds and the white Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

Tuscany is a very hilly region, with elevated land constituting about two-thirds of the total area, much of which is used for agriculture. The western shoreline touches the Ligurian and the Tyrrhenian seas. It has a fairly mild climate, though further inland there are greater fluctuations in temperature and it can be very rainy at times, which has helped to develop fertile soil.

Magical landscapes

David Reali, who works for Italian food and wine importer Certa, hails his Tuscan homeland as his favourite wine region. He says: “It is named for the pre-Roman Etruscan inhabitants, and has magical inland and shore landscapes with amazing sandy or rocky beaches, mountains, hills and flat areas.”

He recalls fondly the area’s outdoors lifestyle, with locals relaxing over good food and wine, and explains why Tuscany, being packed with cultural attractions, draws so many tourists. “The weather is what I love most about my native region. Plus, the history of Tuscany, especially Florence; my city is called la Culla del Rinascimento [the cradle of the Renaissance].”

As Reali points out, winemaking is a world with infinite variants determined by soil, climate and vinification. Tuscany is a stellar Italian wine area for a variety of reasons. “It is a region with a temperate climate that has significant differences between areas, including variations in soil and various landscapes, which is really suitable for grapes,” he says.

Top crop

He highlights the topography as an important factor. “In Tuscany, 67% of the region is hilly, 25% mountainous and 8% flat. Numerous precipitations, mostly concentrated in spring and autumn, are perfect for the vineyards, although it is starting to be a challenge considering the world climate change.”

The proud Tuscan outlines the region’s wine crop. “The main red wines in Tuscany are Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, while white wines produced here are Trebbiano, Vermentino and Vernaccia.” The native Sangiovese grape – one of the 10 most planted grapes in the world – is the singular star of Brunello di Montalcino and the main component of Chianti Classico and Nobile di Montepulciano, three top wines to which Reali is particularly partial.

Sensational Sangiovese

Describing the tastes and aromas of his favourite wines from Tuscany, he elaborates: “The main characteristics of Sangiovese are red and black cherry, liquorice, black tea and nuances of violet aromas. If aged, it can offer aromas of leather, undergrowth and tobacco. It is typically dry with chalky tannins.”

The region’s famed Super Tuscans, which first emerged in Chianti in the 1970s, embrace non-indigenous grapes, often boldly blending Sangiovese with international varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah to create complex and highly structured wines.

Cool Chilean: Saluting the bright, mineral South American west coast whites born in mineral-rich soils

Perhaps a little surprisingly given its far-flung New World location, Chile has a long history of making wine. Production dates from the 16th century with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, while further developments in the mid-19th century saw the introduction of French wine varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carménère and Cabernet Franc.

Fantastic fourth

The 1980s saw a growth in the industry with improved fermentation techniques and the South American country is now firmly established on the winemaking map, with recent figures placing it as the world’s fourth-largest exporter of wine. Falling between the latitudes of 32°S and 38°S, the vineyards of Chile have been defined into several distinct regions since December 1994. Coquimbo in the north and the Central Valley areas of Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua are considered among the best.

Limarí Valley, a sub-region of Coquimbo, is one of Bernice Liu’s favourite wine regions. The Hong Kong actress, winemaker and Wine Maven platform entrepreneur (winemaven.io) clearly adores the quality of the viticulture emanating from the area. “This region is a pretty cool place for wines,” she enthuses. “It is where my Chardonnay comes from!” She makes Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnay in collaboration with Pagnel winery.

Chardonnay hooray

The main wines produced in the region are Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Liu believes the location has some distinct advantages for certain wines, stating: “Limarí Valley is one of the most prized areas for Chardonnay in Chile, with great soil and climate conditions. With it having a sea-to-soil likeness, fresher whites are able to be produced here.”

She cites Concha y Toro winery as an example of a famous producer of lovely white wines in the valley.

Roots and routes

Chile also has historical advantages that have cemented its winemaking tradition. As Liu points out, it was not affected by the phylloxera louse. Feeding on the roots and leaves of grapevines, these insects destroyed much of the wines worldwide in the late 19th century.

Mineral shine

There is good minerality in a soil that tends to be made of clay, silt and chalk in Limarí Valley. Due to a relatively moderate amount of rainfall, the vines on these mineral-rich soils are fed with drip irrigation, and this combination creates fresh wines with a notable mineral edge, a quality noted by Liu when describing her favourite wine from the region.

“Naturally, my Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnays are my favourites,” she says. “I love medium-bodied whites, with good natural acidity. With moderate amounts of clay soil, minerality shines through, and makes them a great food pairing wine, especially with Asian cuisine and the varied flavours from dish to dish.

Aromatic show

“The aromas and taste of these wines have hints of floral, vanilla, ripe stoned fruit and a bit of oak to ease the acidity. Minerality from the clay soil is also present,” she adds, again referring to the mineral edge in the wines of this region.

“The best part is that though they are served cold, the glass can be left to stand and the aromatics really start to show.”