Autumn Appellations: Complement the new season with rich red wines, aromatic whites or earthy blends

As oppressive summer days give way to blasts of more pleasant autumn air, our palates and cravings undergo a subtle but significant shift. The light, crisp whites and rosés that refreshed us in the heat and humidity begin to feel out of place, making room for wines that mirror the season’s deeper, richer and more comforting qualities.

Autumn is a time of transition, and the best wines are those that bridge the gap between the bright energy of summer and the contemplative depth of winter. They are pours that offer warmth, complexity, and a perfect synergy with the heartier foods that begin to grace our tables.

When considering the ideal autumn wine, think of the sensory experiences of the season – the richness of mooncakes, the sweetness of hairy crab, and as colder weather strikes, the smoky scent of chestnuts roasting on the street and happy, bubbling hotpot. The wines that excel are those that can either complement or contrast these sensations beautifully.

Red Alert

For many imbibers, autumn is unequivocally red-wine time. But beware: the goal is warmth, not weight; complexity, not overpowering heaviness.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre – and the GSM blends – are quintessential autumn choices. Grenache offers a welcoming embrace of ripe red fruit – think strawberry, raspberry and red plum – but it’s the secondary notes that make it perfect for this time of year. Hints of white pepper, dried herbs (garrigue) and a subtle smokiness evoke a walk through an autumn forest. A Grenache-based Côtes-du-Rhône Villages or a Spanish Garnacha from Priorat offers fantastic value and versatility, pairing wonderfully with herb-roasted chicken, mushroom risotto and grilled sausages.

For cooler evenings, Syrah steps into the spotlight. The likes of Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph from the Northern Rhône present with dark berry flavours, black pepper, olive and smoky, bacon-fat notes. Australian Shiraz is juicier and more fruit-forward, often with a distinct liquorice and sweet spice character. Both styles have a warming, spicy core that is ideal with braised short ribs or barbecued meat.

As the undeniable king of versatility, Pinot Noir’s acidity cuts through the richness of autumnal dishes, while its earthy, fungal undertones are a direct echo of the season. A bottle from Oregon’s Willamette Valley or Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune has notes of cherry, cranberry, damp earth and clove. It is the ultimate pairing for a classic Thanksgiving feast, roast goose or wild mushroom dishes.

Crisp, Light White

To overlook white wine in autumn is to miss out on a world of profound pleasure. The key is to move away from lean, citrus-driven profiles toward wines with texture, weight and aromatic complexity. An oaked Chardonnay from California or Burgundy (Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet) is autumn in a glass. The tropical and stone fruit flavours are complemented by notes of toasted vanilla, baking spices and a creamy, buttered brioche quality. This is a magnificent match for roasted turkey with gravy, lobster bisque, or a simple, creamy pasta.

Don’t dismiss aromatic whites as solely summer sippers. A German Spätlese Riesling, with its balance of ripe peach and apricot against striking acidity, is sublime with sweet-and-sour pork. An Alsatian Gewürztraminer, with its explosive lychee, rose petal and ginger spice, can handle the most aromatic and complex dishes, from Moroccan tagine to Indian curry.

Orange Glow

Skin-contact orange wines offer a unique autumnal profile. White grapes fermented with their skins gain tannin, texture and profound flavours of dried orchard fruit, nuts, honey and tea. They are complex, earthy and incredibly food-friendly, especially with sweet potato or taro and hearty grains.

Ultimately, the best wine for autumn is the one that makes you feel content. It’s about finding a layered, intriguing pour that tells a story of the harvest and prepares the soul for the quiet introspection of winter. So, light a candle, uncork a bottle of something with a little spice and warmth, and let the autumn evening unfold.

Vintage Variables: The investment-worthy wines making a splash in the current climate

In a world of volatile markets and digital speculation, fine wine has emerged as a tangible, inflation-resistant and prestige-driven asset. According to the Fine Wine Investment Guide published by Cult Wines, wine offers low correlation with traditional markets, making it a hedge against economic downturns.

Cult notes that if your portfolio spread had been 35% Burgundy, 30% Bordeaux, 15% Italy, 10% Champagne, 7% Rest of the World and 3% Rhône held over five years, your best annualised return would have been just shy of 16%. From January 2004 to July 2024, the Bordeaux-heavy Liv-ex 100 grew by 272%, and the Liv-ex 1000 by 288%.

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a curious newcomer, here are the top bottles to invest in at the moment, along with a snapshot of the broader wine investment landscape.

Choice Terroir

Top-tier labels have yielded consistent historical returns, with intrinsic value driven by rarity, ageing potential and global prestige. Climate volatility has impacted harvests in Burgundy and Champagne, increasing scarcity and driving up prices for desirable vintages.

While Bordeaux and Burgundy reds still dominate the market, investors are expanding their vineyard horizons. Tuscany and Napa are the emerging stars alongside Rhône Valley names like Château Rayas and Jean-Louis Chave, and forays are being made into white Burgundy from Côte de Beaune like Coche-Dury and Leflaive. Spanish and South American wines are also gaining traction for their value and ageing potential.

Top Bottles

1. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti This Burgundy estate represents the pinnacle of wine investing. Its grand cru wines like Romanée-Conti and La Tâche are produced in tiny quantities and command astronomical prices. Vintages like 2010 and 2015 have appreciated from 12% to 15% over the past 12 months, driven by demand in Asia and scarcity because of climate-affected harvests. Price range: US$20,000–$100,000+.

2. Screaming Eagle This cult Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a benchmark in American wine investing. With limited production and elite status, it’s a favourite among US and Asian collectors. Prices have risen 13% over the past year. Price range: US$3,000–$10,000+

3. Masseto Known as the ‘Petrus of Italy,’ Masseto is a single-vineyard Merlot with both luxury appeal and ageing potential. The Super Tuscan has recently recorded gains of about 10%, fuelled by strong allocations across Europe and Asia. Price range: US$800–$1,500+

4. Château Lafite Rothschild A First Growth Bordeaux with a legacy of excellence, Lafite is a cornerstone of any serious wine portfolio. The 2024 release saw a 27% price drop, creating a rare buying opportunity this year. Price range: US$600–$2,000+

5. Dom Pérignon A prestige cuvée with global recognition, Dom Pérignon Champagne offers a more accessible entry point into wine investing. Vintages like 2009 and 2012 have shown resilience, even during broader market corrections. Price range: US$200–$500+

Cellar Musts

Newcomers to wine investment are delving into a wonderful world that can reap rich rewards on the palate and the pocket. Give careful thought to your strategy: direct ownership or a managed portfolio via an online platform such as Vinovest or WineFi. These have democratised access to wine investing – fractional ownership, AI-driven portfolio management and blockchain-based provenance tracking are enabling new money, often from younger wine collectors, to pour into the market.

It is important to focus on long-term fundamentals rather than short-term gains since most investment-grade wines appreciate significantly after five to 10 years. Store your purchases professionally – use bonded warehouses with temperature control and insurance – and monitor market trends. The fun – or possibly the pain – comes with tracking the performance of your high-yielding favourites through indices like Liv-ex Fine Wine 1000.

Fine wine is more than a luxury; it’s a strategic, resilient and culturally rich asset class. Whether you’re investing in a bottle of Romanée-Conti for long-term appreciation or diversifying with Champagne and Super Tuscans, the key is to buy smart, store well and stay informed.

Exalted Malts: Showing intoxicating fruit, floral and peat, Scotch whisky is a wonder sipped the world over

Scotch whisky is more than a spirit—it is a storied emblem of Scotland’s heritage, craftsmanship, and character. Known as the ‘water of life,’ Scotch expresses centuries of tradition, shaped by landscape, lore and a tireless commitment to quality.

Its roots date back to the 15th century, with the earliest written record in 1494 noting the allocation of malt to a friar named John Cor for distilling. From humble beginnings, Scotch whisky evolved into a world-renowned category defined by depth and nuance. With official regulation introduced in 1933 and the establishment of the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) in 1942, its standards have only been further safeguarded and refined.

Today’s producers continue the legacy with reverence and innovation, employing traditional methods alongside modern precision. According to SWA regulations, Scotch must be distilled in Scotland and matured in oak casks for no less than three years—though many are aged far longer.

Mash Hits

Scotch comes in several forms. Single malt whisky—made from 100% malted barley at a single distillery—is prized for purity and provenance. Single grain whisky includes other grains and may be distilled using continuous stills. Blended Scotch artfully combines malt and grain whiskies, achieving balance and approachability.

Production begins with malted barley, which is mashed in hot water to release fermentable sugars. The resulting liquid, or wort, is fermented into a low-alcohol wash. Distillation follows in traditional copper pot stills, separating impurities and concentrating flavour. The spirit is then transferred to oak casks—often ex-bourbon or sherry barrels—where time, wood and environment weave their magic.

Nuanced Notes

Scotch’s signature lies in its rich palette of flavours. Expect notes of dried fruits, vanilla, spice and honey, with smoky or peaty overtones in some regional expressions. The mouthfeel is typically silky, with a warming, lingering finish that invites contemplation.

Beyond taste, whisky connects deeply to Scotland’s terroir, traditions and economy. Each bottle is a snapshot of place and passion—something increasingly appreciated by whisky tourists who visit distilleries to savour the experience behind the dram.

Single Malt Supremacy

Among the many revered names in Scotch, these single malts embody heritage and acclaim:

• The Macallan: Celebrated for sherry cask maturity and notes of dried fruit, spice and chocolate.

• The Glenlivet: Benchmark Speyside smoothness, known for soft, orchard fruit character.

• Lagavulin: Intensely peaty and smoky, evoking the bold maritime soul of Islay.

• Laphroaig: Robust, with medicinal iodine tones and seaweed salinity.

• Glenfiddich: One of the world’s bestsellers, with floral, pear-like finesse.

• Oban: Balances coastal salinity with subtle smoke and stone fruit sweetness.

• The Balvenie: Honeyed and rich, made using traditional floor maltings.

• Highland Park: An Orkney gem blending heathered smoke with elegant sweetness.

• Ardbeg: Wildly peated, offering waves of charred oak, lemon and brine.

• The Dalmore: Luxuriously rich, with spiced fruit and sherry influence.

• Glenmorangie: Light, citrusy and often finished in innovative casks.

• Auchentoshan: Triple-distilled for an ultra-smooth, floral profile.

• Bruichladdich: From Islay with terroir at its core; styles range from delicate to powerfully smoky.

• Springbank: Campbeltown’s pride, known for earthy peat and restrained sweetness.

• Balblair: Focuses on vintage releases with deep fruit and balanced oak.

Personality Taste

To fully appreciate Scotch whisky’s depth, take time to explore the ritual of tasting:

Use a tulip-shaped or Glencairn glass to concentrate aromas. Swirl gently and nose the whisky, identifying layers of scent. Sip slowly, noting how it unfolds across the palate and lingers on the finish. A drop of water can open new aromas, softening heat and drawing out hidden notes. And for pairings? Consider complementary flavours like dark chocolate, salty cheeses or cured meats.

In every sip, Scotch whisky offers a journey—through history, place and craftsmanship. It is, quite simply, exalted.

Vinho Vidigueira: Often aged in amphorae, the pours from this part of Portugal are fresh and vibrant

Vidigueira in the Alentejo region of Portugal has been cultivating wines since the Roman times. Attesting to the deep-rooted nature of viticulture in this area, the name Vidigueira itself nods to the Portuguese word for vine (videira). This signifies how this beautiful area has wine enmeshed deep in its soul.

Vidigueira is the favourite Portuguese wine region of Pedro Ribeiro, a wine-industry professional for more than 20 years. “It’s a place where tradition and innovation meet in a very special way,” he says. “The landscape is typically Alentejan – warm, open, with gently rolling hills – but there’s a certain energy to the wines here that really stands out.”

His lifelong mission has been to understand the nuances of viticulture. “My focus has been on understanding how place, process and people shape the character of a wine – and few places demonstrate that as clearly as Vidigueira,” adds the winemaker.

Time of the Clay

Ribeiro points out that the area is particularly known for its use of clay amphorae, or talhas, a traditional method of winemaking dating back 2,000 years. Destemmed and crushed grapes are put into these large vessels to begin fermentation, a process which occurs spontaneously given the indigenous yeast in the fruit.

Their output is undoubtedly enriched by the underlying volcanic soils in the region, and the influence of the Atlantic Ocean to the west, which plays a powerful role in the sub-region’s microclimate.

Here, the warm Mediterranean climate is cooled, especially during harvest, by breezes off the Atlantic that are stopped in their tracks by the Serra do Mendro – the hills which separate the Alto Alentejo (high country) and the Baixo Alentejo (low). Ribeiro also notes the effects of a poor but well-drained schist and granite soil, and a long-standing tradition of winemaking that values both heritage and experimentation. “This balance allows for bold, expressive wines, but also for more elegant and refined styles – especially when traditional techniques like amphora ageing are used,” he says.

Branco and Tinto

Vidigueira produces both reds and whites, though as Ribeiro suggests, it is particularly known for its whites made from the Antão Vaz grape that “thrives in the heat and gives structured, mineral wines”.

“On the red side, grape varieties like Trincadeira, Tinta Grossa and Moreto are commonly used, often resulting in wines that are rich yet fresh, especially when aged in amphorae,” he enthuses.

Respect for Tradition

Ribeiro has no hesitation when asked to name his preferred Vidigueira tipple. “Without a doubt, my favourite is Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto,” he says, enthusiastically of the winery he co-owns located between Vidigueira and the municipality of Cuba in Baixo Alentejo.

He believes his blend of Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez grapes is imbued with the qualities that make Vidigueira wines unique and the area so blessed with quality pours. “It’s a wine that captures the essence of the region – the purity of fruit, the respect for tradition, and the subtle complexity that amphora ageing brings,” he notes.

Ribeiro does raise a glass to other local wines, however. “I’m also a fan of amphora-aged wines from producers like XXVI Talhas who continue the legacy of talha winemaking with integrity,” he adds.

Fruit Forward

Describing his favourite wine, he identifies a distinct fruitiness in its aromas and taste: “The Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto offers vibrant red fruit – cherry, raspberry – but with an earthy, slightly herbal note from the amphora.”

Elaborating on how the soothing microclimate plays a part in the character of the wine, he says: “There’s a beautiful freshness, even in a warm region like Vidigueira, and a soft, almost clay-like minerality that makes it feel very alive. The texture is supple, the tannins gentle, and the finish often lingers with a slightly savoury, wild herb character.”

Kings of the Hill: The profile of Brunello di Montalcino’s special Sangiovese has been elevated in recent years

Brunello di Montalcino reds from picturesque Tuscany are now some of the most sought-after wines in the world. The region has a long-standing tradition of viticulture, but its reputation for quality has really blossomed in the last few decades. At the core of this output is the Sangiovese Grosso grape, a varietal which thrives in the unique microclimate and soils of the area.

In Montalcino, a small, scenic hill town south of Siena surrounded by about 30,000 hectares of rolling hills, cultivation of grapes and olives has been practised for centuries. “The vineyard area of Montalcino is relatively small, only about 3,000 hectares where Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino are produced,” explains Margherita Mascagni, Sales Manager of Argiano, one of the region’s traditional estates. “What is special about Montalcino is that the purity of Sangiovese has been preserved in the appellations and this gives the wines a distinctive character.”

Sangiovese Savvy

As with any winemaking region, there is a combination of factors which make Brunello di Montalcino so prized. These are particularly favourable for the preservation of the purity of the local Sangiovese grape, known for its larger (grosso) berries. “Montalcino is so good because it has a special richness and variety of soils and microclimate which can express the sensitivity of Sangiovese,” notes Mascagni. Though wines of different styles are produced in this small area, “all express the best potential of the Sangiovese varietal”.

The rich composition of the soil is key in the depth of the Brunello di Montalcino flavour profile – a mixture of clay, limestone and marl. It is on the southern- and southwestern-facing slopes of the region’s vineyards that the grapes can fully ripen. Many are located at high altitude – between 200 and 600 metres above sea level – and thus enjoy a cooler climate. This helps to preserve the natural acidity of the grapes, aiding the balance and natural longevity of the wines.

Age Matters

The area produces two main wines, the flagship Brunello, and Rosso di Montalcino. The Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) was only established in 1984, partly to generate cash flow for the local estates since this wine can be released onto the market earlier: only a minimum of six months in oak barrels and one year ageing in total are required. It is made from 100% Sangiovese grown in the same region as the longer aged (two years in oak, four years total), more established and more prestigious Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) reds.

According to Mascagni, Rosso boasts “the youngest, freshest expression” and is blessed with a “very easy drinking style”. On occasion, some producers will make only this wine instead of allocating some of their grapes to Brunello, especially in less than ideal vintages.

Similarly, Brunello comprises exclusively Sangiovese grapes, with no foreign varietals allowed in its production. Mascagni highlights how this wine has more structure and ageing potential, though she does point out that “most Brunellos are elegant and quite enjoyable when young”.

Brilliant Brunellos

With its historic hill settlements, undulating terrain and dense lush forests, Mascagni not only adores the scenery in this part of Tuscany, but also the elegant Sangiovese wines that emerge from its cellars. Founded in 1580, Argiano is one of the oldest wine producers in Italy and she is partial to its style of Brunello particularly in recent years, with its “gentle extraction of tannins and expression of the limestone in the soil with a lot of savoury mineral taste and fresh fruit”.

After much deliberation, she names the estate’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo as her favourite wine. It has a special floral touch at the nose, which makes it “always very recognisable in tastings, even right after the harvest”.

She notes, enthusiastically: “Old vines of 60 years give the wine a unique complexity of aromas, like Mediterranean orange-peel notes. Its soil of oceanic marl imparts a long, savoury finish and very elegant tannic structure.”

Andes Aromas:Wines from Argentina’s high-altitude heaven come to earth with fresh fruit and minerality

Argentina has regained its position as one of the world’s premier winemaking regions. The practice initially developed in the 19th century, fuelled by the skills and knowhow of wine-loving immigrants from Spain and Italy. In 2023 Argentina ranked as the eighth-largest wine producer globally.

Most of the viticulture lies in the western expanse of the country, in the foothills of Andes. It is the pours from the northwest of this vast South American country that particularly appeal to Constanza Cabello, Wine Development Manager in Hong Kong of 67 Pall Mall, which operates private members’ clubs for wine lovers in various locations throughout the world. “My favourite wine regions of Argentina are found in the north,” she says. “Valles Calchaquies, Quebrada de Humahuaca and Valles Templados – the wines from this area are, in my opinion, terroir wines.”

High respect

Here, in the provinces of Catamarca, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy, are some of the world’s highest-planted vineyards. Those in the Calchaqui Valleys, the most prolific of the north’s wine regions, soar in altitude from 1,500 to 3,100 metres.

A number of factors drives the essence of the wines produced in the northern highlands. “What really determines the style of wine are the high-altitude vineyards, the poor soils with different kinds of minerals, and the number of sunny days – around 300 per year in the case of Cafayate [in Salta],” says Cabello. “However, without doubt the human factor is the most important,” she opines, referring to the many years of human capital accrued in a knowledge bank of the finer techniques of winemaking.

Indeed, in Cabello’s eyes, the social aspect of this northern corner of Argentina is the overriding element nurturing the quality of its wines. It contributes significantly to the excellence demonstrated in the art of viticulture while harnessing its cultural life in general. “I believe this region is the essence of Argentina, the last living cultural spot that we have, that can show who we are, and where we came from,” she stresses of her homeland.

Criolla of the wild

The seasoned wine professional spotlights the leading varietals grown up high, including Malbec and some Tannat, as well as the white Torrontés, one of the Criolla group of native Argentinian grapes. She points to an increasing number of single-variety Criolla wine emerging from the area in recent years.

“One of my favourite producers is Francisco Puga y Familia, a small winery owned by ‘Paco’ Puga, a renowned winemaker in the region,” shares Cabello. “He holds a small vineyard in Tolombón, south of Cafayate [in the Calchaqui Valleys] and is full of passion and love for his terroir.”

She praises the Francisco Puga y Familia Corte de Blancas ‘Viejos Parrales’, a blend of Torrontés, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc from old pergola vineyards, explaining that Torrontés is a very aromatic grape which infuses this wine with notes of white flowers and fresh white grapes. “It is something to try and give a chance to the white wines coming from Argentina!” she enthuses.

Her other go-to winery is Bodegas El Bayeh, located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley. The family-run enterprise is devoted to crafting small batches of landscape wines reflecting the ravine’s terroir. Respecting the environment to achieve wines of purity and expression, they practise sustainable viticulture through the growth of healthy grapes, natural fermentation and minimal intervention in the winemaking process.

Finding the plot

“El Bayeh Pequeños Parceleros de la Quebrada is a single-region Criolla from different villages within the Quebrada de Humahuaca,” notes Cabello. These are old-vine Criollas, planted more than 100 years ago and cultivated by local villagers on plots of varying altitudes.

“Criolla enters the category of light-body fresh wines, something not generally associated with Argentinian production at the moment,” she reveals. “This is a local grape variety of fresh fruit infused with mineral notes and fresh acidity” able to express the minerality of the diverse soils found in the northern reaches of the country.

Sardinian Splendour: Old vines in remote Mamoiada yield wines that are now on the lips of the world

Sardinia has a long history of viticulture, but its reputation within the wine community has only recently borne fruit. The wooded, mountainous island off the west coast of Italy offers a myriad of microclimates conducive to the production of a wide variety of fine pours. It forms one of 20 Italian wine regions and numbers among the most beautiful in the country.

Part of the reason the island’s winegrowers previously flew under the radar is that for many years they made blending wines for other regions, according to Jacopo Bacci of Bacci Wines, a family company with extensive interests in Tuscany and beyond. He says successful wineries have now discovered the potential of the Sardinian terroir and the world is taking notice.

Bacci praises the geographical diversity of the island, believing it offers enterprising producers the potential for picking and developing their wine preference. “What is very interesting about the Sardinian terroir is that you find a large variety of soils and elevation that link to the different exposures, making this land a great place where you can build your wine style,” he reveals.

Isolation thanks

In Mamoiada, a remote village in the central eastern province of Nuoro, winemaking has been practised for centuries. The locals – many of whom are centenarians in this renowned ‘Blue Zone’ of exceptional longevity – can count the numerous blessings of their location, including the existence of rare heritage vines that date back more than 100 years. The area’s isolation saved it from phylloxera that ravaged the vineyards of Europe in the 19th century.

Among Sardinia’s more than 100 indigenous grape varieties, Cannonau takes precedence here. This red grape flourishes in the rocky granitic soil situated from 400 metres to 900 metres above sea level. There is also a small production of white Granazza.

Bacci echoes the uniqueness of Mamoiada as a hub for winemakers. “It is a small wine area of around 350 hectares located at 700 metres above the sea level. The granitic soil and high elevation give Cannonau a unique finesse and complexity,” he says, while also highlighting the grand old age of the vines.

Individual style

The breadth of offerings even in such a small area means it is difficult to pinpoint a particular taste profile. “From my experience in the region, the Cannonau from Mamoiada doesn’t have a standardised taste; every producer has his own style.” he explains. “Mostly, the wines are produced from a single parcel with natural fermentation, so it is really difficult to describe a flavour profile for all the region.”

One of the wines Bacci has come to appreciate during tastings in the area is Vike Vike Cannonau di Sardegna. “The wine is a little bit closed at first, but after a few minutes you can get the flavours of raspberry and roses with peppery notes,” he notes. “The vintages that I have tried are all full-bodied but not over mature. The taste is balanced with a good long final and very good tannins.”

Age of excitement

The Bacci family produces its own wine in Mamoiada, Blue Zone, an exciting project which he says is now yielding encouraging results. It has presented challenges, particularly the inability to work the vineyards by machine. Every process is done by hand or using cows, and production is limited to 3,000 bottles a year using Cannonau grapes from different parcels of historic vineyards located at 800 metres above sea level.

“We have decided to respect the old way of cultivating the vineyard, even trying to be more accurate to ensure the vines an extra-long life,” says Bacci. Theirs is a wine style more oriented to freshness, so they harvest early, use spontaneous fermentation to highlight the indigenous flavours, and are light with the wood.

“At the nose, Bacci Blue Zone has aromas of violets, peaches, oranges and blackberries. Everything is very fresh,” he notes. “The structure of the wine is medium- to full-bodied with a good component of fresh fruit and light spiciness. The finish is fresh, long and slightly savoury.”

High Italian: Alta Langa’s reputation for producing some of the best bubbles outside of Champagne is rising

Born on the slopes of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti provinces in Piedmont, north-western Italy, the wines of Alta Langa have fizzed into prominence in recent years. The Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG, created in 2011, is a relative newcomer in the region and the first to make quality sparkling wines from the ‘Champagne grapes’ of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the traditional method popularised by the great French houses.

Erika Abate, Export Manager of Enrico Serafino, a fine producer of Alta Langa sparkling wines as well as the renowned Piedmont reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, has spent her whole adult life sampling the area’s vinicultural delights. She says the wines here exude an elegant character with a certain “over-the-top potential” that is best appreciated by a discerning palate. The hillside soils in this higher part of the Langhe wine region also allow the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to express their full potential.

“The Alta Langa is the only area where sparkling wine production has a minimum elevation of 250 metres above sea level, 30 months’ minimum ageing on lees and mandatory vintage on the label,” she notes, referring to the defining characteristics of this fast-rising bubbly and the shortest time it must be left in contact with leftover yeast sediment prior to secondary fermentation.

Perfect pedoclimate

Abate points out that grape varieties with exceptional potential need perfect conditions in which to grow. “The two varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, have adapted so well in some areas of Piedmont, testifying to the fact that this is exceptional land not only for red wines but also for sparkling wines,” she says.

In the pursuit of excellence in the Alta Langa appellation, the soil-exposure-altitude mix that creates a vineyard’s pedoclimate must be studied carefully. Analysis of soils that can be difficult to cultivate and optimisation of the region’s unique climatic conditions are essential to get the best results from the Pinot Noir grape – a process often requiring specific experience and expertise in the Méthode Traditionelle. “Each stage of the ‘method’ offers opportunities but also great risks,” she notes.

Seabed sediment

She explains that soil origin is key to winemaking success in the wider Piedmont region. “The sedimentary soil of the Langhe originates from the Ligurian-Piedmontese Tertiary Basin that was created from the collision of the European and African plates,” she reveals, indicating that sediments can now be found which developed on the seabed between 12 and five million years ago during the Miocene era.

“Over this time, the sea and the basin conditions changed dramatically and these changes are visible in the rock layers and the various geological formations. The presence of fish fossils and planktonic microorganisms, visible because of shifting soils, shows the richness of life and gave birth to its natural treasures.”

Varietal character

The main wines produced in Piedmont are the Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera reds, along with some extraordinary whites such as Gavi and Arneis, and sparkling Alta Langa. “My favourite wines are from the Alta Langa, Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Gavi appellations,” shares Abate. “I love the Alta Langa for their elegance, crispy acidity and the freshness that these wines can maintain over the years.”

The uniqueness of pours derived from numerous grapes also appeals. “I love Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cortese because these are very terroir-sensitive grapes with a pleasant acidity and minerality, and a unique personality giving harmony to the other elements.”

Abate praises the skilled winemakers in her favourite appellations for coaxing the best qualities from the soil and grapes. “They are bringing out varietal character of these grapes with an extraordinary longevity and tannins that are typical indicators of age ability. Moreover, they are great wines to be paired with food and always give a sense of place whenever you are,” she enthuses.

Fine China: Chinese wine producers have upped their quality to challenge the French classics that inspired them

Wine produced in China received an initial boost when prestigious French names brought their expertise and financial clout to the table 40 years ago. Since those early days, winemaking in the mainland has grown considerably; it is now noted for its variety and, increasingly, its quality.

Crucial backing

Just Wong, Executive Director of Beverage Operations at Wynn Macau, attributes the remarkable growth of the Chinese wine industry over the past decade to central government investment in the major wine regions in the late 1990s. He also highlights an upshot of professional expertise over recent years, such as at universities, enabling new generations of wine-industry professionals with easier access to information, knowledge and expertise. “The market primarily targets mainland Chinese consumers who are adventurous and open to try new products, including a younger consumer group,” he says.

Award Wynners

Last year, the luxury Macau hotel hosted the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards, which served as a platform for wine experts from various regions in China to collaborate, exchange knowledge and promote Chinese wines on a larger international stage. Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 from Ningxia was the competition’s brightest star, garnering the Best Wine of China Trophy. Its quality so impressed during rigorous judging that it was also awarded the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia.

Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021, also from Ningxia, won two trophies, Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco-Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 from Hebei was hailed as Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China.

Bettering the French

According to Master of Wine Richard Hemming, the quality of wine in China is clearly improving, especially at the top end of the market. “This is thanks to significant investment, plus the increasing experience of producers,” he says. “With every vintage, they are learning more about what works best for their terroir.”

Like the vast majority of the so-called New World wines, most of the best wines from China are produced according to classic European techniques. “I’ve been in blind tastings where Chinese wines have beaten established French classics, so there is no question that the excellence is already there,” states Hemming, who also serves as Head of Wine for Asia at 67 Pall Mall, a group of private members’ clubs exclusively for wine lovers. This uplift in the quality of Chinese output comes at a time when global wine output is falling and competitive pressures are intensifying – market dynamics which could affect the growth of the industry. “I think growth will continue but at a slower rate,” opines the Singapore-based MW. “Around the world, consumption is falling and global trade outlooks are uncertain, so there is understandable caution about investing in wine production. Even so, the individual passions of producers will ensure that new, exciting wines continue to emerge from China.”

Pick of the crop

Given that so many Chinese growers are making great wines in numerous different styles, Hemming does not have a single favourite wine from the country. “I’ve tasted more wine from Ningxia than anywhere else, which shows that quality can be achieved in everything from classic bottle-fermented sparkling to expressive Pinot Noir to powerful Bordeaux blends,” he says. The superb wines of Ao Yun and Célèbre underscore Yunnan’s reputation as a region of great potential. “The former combines forthright black fruit with impressive earthy complexity as it ages, while the latter offers an orchard-full of fruit as well as a gastronomic chalkiness that bears comparison with some of the best of Burgundy,” says Hemming.

Lombardy Sparkle: Franciacorta’s quality bubbles are sparking a real buzz in the wine world

Located in the province of Brescia in Lombardy, Italy, the spectacular wine region of Franciacorta has blossomed into one of the gems of global viticulture. This tiny area is famed for the quality of its sparkling wines, whose most enthusiastic devotees say are a match for some of the finest Champagnes. It is exactly 30 years since these remarkable bubbles – produced using the traditional method – were awarded full DOCG classification, Italy’s top rank of wine-producing regions.

Though the area is situated in southern Europe, which is generally blessed with a warm climate, many of the vineyards are planted near the southern shores of Lake Iseo in the foothills of the Alps. Temperatures here are dampened by cold air descending from the mountain slopes, preventing the fruit from over-ripening in the sun. The lakeside locale is crucial in moderating this effect, providing a micro-climate suited to making some of the world’s best sparkling wines. Ultimately, the unique geography of the area enables the high level of acidity required for top-quality fizz.

Sparkling star

Alex Wai, Sommelier at Grissini, one of Hong Kong’s most prestigious Italian restaurants, reveals the area’s rolling hills were shaped by glacial action. He praises its glacial moraine soil, comprising gravel and sand over limestone, as ideal for the cultivation of grapes.

Wai says the reputation of the Franciacorta wine region has surged over recent years. He is fond of Franciacorta’s graceful ‘blanc de blancs’ style bubbles, which showcase the unique regional style. His favourite, though, is Essence Noir produced by Antica Fratta.

Describing the character of this wine, he notes: “It is a pure expression of Pinot Nero from the Franciacorta area – complex on the palate but offering an underlying elegance in style.”

Ancient modernity

The Antica Fratta project was launched in 1979 by Franco Ziliani, who pioneered the first Franciacorta winery, Guido Berlucchi. Desiring to create a new high-quality sparkling wine that would be distinct from the original estate and not interfere with existing operations, Ziliani drew upon the splendours of the newly renovated 19th-century cellars of a beautiful villa in the Fratta area of Monticelli Brusati.

Realising his vision, Antica Fratta has evolved to produce superior sparkling wines. The delicate Essence Satèn is particularly noteworthy, being made entirely from white grapes – Chardonnay, albeit with the allowance of some Pinot Bianco.

“Our Essence line is a vintage wine that has spent a minimum of three to four years in contact with the yeast before its dégorgement, and more than a year in bottle,” says Cristian Maddelana, a leading Italy-based wine consultant who has long advised the estate.

Black magic

In Franciacorta like other regions around the world, the pervasive effect of climate change and warming temperatures is threatening the fine balance that enables great wines to be produced. Careful management of the vines and harvest times has been necessary to maintain quality, but one side effect has been that black grapes such as Pinot Nero now fare better than before. Antica Fratta now produces a ‘blanc de noirs’ style made entirely from this famous Bourgogne varietal (where it is called Pinot Noir), the aptly named Essence Noir.

Maddelana says the production at the Antica Fratta estate is now focused on this style made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. “This technical characteristic, combined with the terroir-driven expression of the Pinot Noir from our region, makes the wine creamy and structured on the nose, with a golden colour, yet expressing with freshness and finesse on the palate – all of this underpinned by its minerality and acidity,” he enthuses.