Category: Watches

Material World: Watchmakers turn to cutting-edge materials for new creations

Quill & Pad co-founder Ian Skellern explores the growing utilisation of exotic materials in crafting high-end timepieces and selects seven medallists of outstanding merit.

While we are still waiting for the 21st century to deliver on long-promised flying cars and paperless offices, the world of haute horlogerie is experiencing something of a tech evolution. Innovative and exotic materials are increasingly being used to craft cases, dials and even movements, much to the delight of watch enthusiasts who’ve grown tired of the same old, same old.

Take Italian jewellery powerhouse Bulgari for example. The brand is perhaps best known for ultra-thin watches – and holds world records in this category – but the masculine Octo Retro Maserati models are more casual and suitable for everyday wear. While a more luxurious pink gold Maserati GranLusso model exists, it’s the GranSport version that stands out – not for its steel case but for its black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating. DLC is a hard-wearing and scratch-resistant treatment that, together with the black dial, contrasts nicely with the highly legible retrograde minutes and jumping hours.

Next to diamonds, the second hardest material is scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which is why it takes Hublot weeks to sculpt the complex case parts for its Big Bang Unico Sapphire − including the case band, bezel and caseback − from solid blocks of sapphire crystal.

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, says the transparent case “reveals the soul of the watch – the Unico movement – and an absolute transparency extending to the strap, which has become invisible”.

“Beyond the symbolism and the play on words, the Big Bang is laying itself bare. It has nothing to hide and everything to show,” he says.

While the fine watchmaking category usually encompasses mechanical wristwatches, when it comes to high-precision mechanical movements, quartz-regulated watches cannot be beat. Breitling’s Chronospace Evo B60 features a SuperQuartz oscillator that is more than 10 times as accurate as standard quartz, boasting accuracy within 10 seconds per year (compared to 15 seconds per month).

The Evo B60 is a sporty flyback chronograph that’s capable of measuring from one-tenth of a second to 24 hours. But what qualifies the B60 for this list is its lightweight but strong grade 5 titanium case, which despite its generous 43mm size feels quite comfortable on the wrist.

Montblanc’s 1858 Collection, meanwhile, looks to history for inspiration. Taking a page from the famous Minerva chronographs of the 1930s, what makes the Automatic Dual Time model so interesting isn’t just its useful second time zone function, but also its bi-metal steel/bronze case.

Bronze is a traditional alloy made from copper and tin that develops a rich patina (tarnish) in open air, which may also turn skin green. To avoid this, Montblanc offers a caseback in steel, while the bezel and crown are forged from beautiful bronze.

With bronze covered, we work our way up the podium to gold. Some may question what’s so innovative about Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Extra Thin in yellow gold – one of the most traditional gold alloys.

Yellow gold (3N shade) was once the most popular precious metal alloy for watch cases, but the warmer pink gold (4N) and red gold (5N) came into fashion over a decade ago, causing yellow gold watches to virtually disappear. With its striking blue dial complementing the case, the Royal Oak Extra Thin reminds us why yellow gold was so popular in the first place.

When it comes to exotic materials, few can hold a candle to the C-SMC carbon case of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur-Aventador S, made in collaboration with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. We reluctantly gloss over the skeleton movement (modelled on the engine of the Lamborghini Aventador) with its deadbeat seconds and twin 90-degree opposed balances linked via differential, each beating at 4Hz for higher precision, to focus on the carbon fibre case.

While carbon fibre is a relatively new material in the luxury watch world, Lamborghini has decades of experience using it in motor racing, and it shows. The watch’s impressively-sized 45mm case is remarkably lightweight.

Titanium, meanwhile – especially grade 5 titanium – is considered by many to be the best when it comes to high-tech materials and alloys, thanks to its widespread use in aerospace, aviation and medical devices. However, it’s not what you use but how you use it that counts, and titanium has rarely looked better than it does on F.P. Journe’s Octa Sport Titane. Some may baulk at wearing such a beautiful watch for playing sports, but the lightness of the titanium case and aluminium movement make the combination a sheer pleasure.

With the watch industry sharing technology with rockets and super sports cars, the results are bound to break new ground in a discipline often considered traditionalist. And as long as we continue to live in a material world, it’s only fitting that our watches rise to the occasion, serving as sterling examples of man’s mastery of the elements.

Text: Ian Skellern

Paradise Regained: Jaquet Droz’s new watch creates a mini Garden of Eden

Known for its elaborate decorative watches, Jaquet Droz has once again stunned the world of horology with its latest model, The Tropical Bird Repeater watch.

Inspired by Gauguin’s Post-Impressionist paintings, the watch depicts, on its dial, an exotic landscape, a Garden of Eden-like terrain, with each detail of flora and fauna depicted painstakingly.

At the heart of this Garden of Eden, amidst a realistic waterfall, is a hummingbird hand-carved and hand-engraved with meticulous craftsmanship by the maison’s top artists. A one-of-a-kind animation in watch-making history, its wings beat up to forty times a second, making it a piece of moving art. All other details, including a peacock, whose plumes open and close, a toucan that emerges at 3 o’clock to open its beak, a flight of dragonflies, whose wings glow in the dark, are equally jaw-dropping.

The timepiece is, however, not just a great looker; it’s high on performance as well. With features like the minute repeater powered by Jaquet Droz RMA89 movement and a power reserve of 60 hours with an oscillating frequency of 3 Hz, the watch is a collectible on all counts.

Limited to just eight pieces, this is one paradise a true connoisseur can’t afford to lose!

Historic Horology: A look at Breguet’s storied past and modern triumphs

The latest edition of Breguet, Watchmakers since 1775 has just hit the shelves. Author and historian Emmanuel Breguet – a direct descendant of the company’s founder – announced the book release at an intimate event in Hong Kong last week.

The original tome was published in 1997 and gained such popularity among horology enthusiasts that it quickly sold out. Now watch lovers have a second chance to get their own copy.

The well-illustrated watch book allows readers an intimate peek at the life of founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. It also traces the French brand’s extraordinary rise from humble beginnings to royal watchmakers to its current international success. The latest edition also covers new acquisitions to the Breguet Museum and developments that have occurred since the last publication.

Mr Breguet also treated guests to a rare display of early 19th century antique timepieces. Each item boasted a rich provenance and was brought in from the Breguet Museum just for the occasion.

The new book – whose full title is Breguet. Watchmakers since 1775. The life and legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) – is now available at all Breguet boutiques worldwide.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Class Act: Chopard’s new watch is a fine balance of form and function

Paying tribute to historical pocket watches created by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860, Chopard has recently launched the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru, the only tonneau-shaped watch wound by automatic movement.

Designed for the modern connoisseur, the watch draws analogy from Grand Cru wine, known for its craftsmanship and premier quality. Just like the Grand Cru wine, which follows rigourous certifications, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru too is attested by Poinçon de Genève, a top Swiss agency for certifying horological excellence.

Featuring an 18-carat rose gold strap and a white porcelain type dial with bold Roman numerals, the watch is as unpretentious as it gets. With nicely balanced proportions, the finishing of its case and movement, the micro-rotor winding feature, this is a must-have for the modern epicurean gentleman.

Priced at HK$174,000, the watch is now available at select Chopard boutiques at ifc Mall, Landmark Prince’s, Ocean Terminal, etc.

Check out the who’s who at Chanel’s Code Coco launch party

 

Chanel’s recent cocktail party for the launch of its iconic watch CODE COCO at ArtisTree saw support from Hong Kong’s top fashionistas and socialites. Hong Kong’s favourite diva Sammi Cheng, K-pop idol Krystal, popular faces Tracy Chu, Charmaine Fong, Kearan Pang, Angela Yuen, Rosa Maria Velasco, and Yvette Kong were in attendance. Also spotted were prominent socialites like Candice Chan, Jacqueline Chow, Ruth Chao, Ming Ho, Catherine Chiu, Vanessa Wong and Sherie Kong.

Paying tribute to first timepiece “Première” 30 years ago, Chanel’s latest offering CODE COCO is at once a jewel and a watch. Featuring the 2.55 handbag clasp, a quilted motif and diamonds, the watch lives by all the codes of the maison.

Chopard is a click closer now, thanks to Net-A-Porter

Eyeing the Happy Diamonds collection from Chopard? It’s even easier to get hold of your favourite piece of jewellery now, with Chopard launching on global luxury online retailer, Net-A-Porter, earlier this month.

Talking about the partnership, Chopard’s co-president Caroline Scheufele says, “Chopard is proud to work alongside such an influential retailer and looks forward to what will no doubt be a great success!”

Featuring an array of lighthearted jewellery in 18-carat rose and white gold, including Chopard’s iconic Happy Hearts range, the collection on Net-A-Porter boasts some of Chopard’s most easily recognisable pieces worldwide.

In the watch section, Net-A-Porter also features one of Chopard’s bestsellers, the Happy Sport watch. Combining steel and moving diamonds in an elegant design, this watch has already won the hearts of Chopard loyalists across the globe.

Net-A-Porter’s Global Buying Director Elizabeth Von Der Goltz is obviously delighted at this collaboration. She said, “Net-A-Porter is thrilled to be launching a truly exquisite collection from an iconic house. Chopard’s signature Happy Diamonds is the playful and innovative core of its jewellery and watches collection. We expect the brand to become an instant hit with our customers globally.”

Racing Time: Cars star Paul Newman’s watch on the block

In many ways, the vintage collectible watch market owes its existence to the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona. Named after the late Hollywood icon who voiced the part of Doc Hudson in Cars, these now discontinued variations of the classic Cosmograph Daytona gained prominence in 1972 after Newman began sporting the watch while indulging his penchant for auto racing.

Although the majority of Newman’s Daytona collection resides with his immediate family, 2017 marks the first time any such pieces will be available to the public. Once gifted to James Cox – teenage boyfriend to Newman’s daughter, Nell Potts – the current Reference 6329 Daytona is slated to be sold at Phillip’s New York auction on 26 October.

The watch possesses historic provenance and rare features. Originally given to Newman by his wife of 50 years, Joanne Woodward, the caseback of this timepiece is engraved with a loving declaration urging the Cool Hand Luke star to “Drive Carefully, Me”. The cream dial, weathered by a gentle patina, has not been restored since the watch was originally manufactured.

Cox recalls Newman’s acerbic wit when the latter gifted the timepiece to him in 1984: “Here’s a watch. If you wind it, it tells pretty good time”. For contemporary collectors, it tells something more – a pretty remarkable story.

Glitterati spotted at dazzling exhibition by Larry Jewelry and Marvella

Asia-based jewellery maison, Larry Jewelry, and French fine jewellery and watch brand, Marvella, recently came together to host a joint exhibition in which they displayed the choicest selection from their high jewellery and watch collections.

The collections of the two houses complemented each other in a harmonious way, as both brands are united by a common thread of skilled craftsmanship and elegant designs.

While Larry Jewelry showcased its dazzling diamond collection, Marvella displayed some unique watches from its Blanc de Blanc, Jardin and other collections.

A bunch of socialites turned up at the venue to show their support for the brands. Familiar faces included Real Ting, Ruby Lam, Michelle Chua, James Shing, Kirk Yip, Amanda Lui, among others.

Franck Muller’s 25th anniversary HK exhibition was a star-studded success

To mark its 25th anniversary, legendary Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller launched a five-day exhibition at Hong Kong’s Harbour City.

Dubbed “The Legend of Time”, the showcase kicked off with an exclusive star-studded cocktail party well attended by industry insiders, local celebrities and discerning collectors.

Brand ambassadors actor Julian Cheung and actress Myolie Wu were also on hand to celebrate the special occasion.

Guests were treated to live watch-making demonstrations that highlighted the intricacy and beauty of haute horology culture.   

The exhibition also showcased some of the brand’s most iconic watches from its 25-year history. The collection was displayed in a specially designed gear wheel-themed time tunnel that guests would meander through.

The night ended on a high note with the unveiling of Franck Muller’s latest collection of timepieces flown in from Switzerland exclusively for the event.

Blue is the warmest colour: Vacheron Constantin’s exhibition reveals Hong Kong at dusk

 

World-renowned watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin, recently hosted the “An Invitation to Travel: Blue Hour, Hong Kong” Overseas Exhibition to celebrate its iconic Overseas watch collection.
French photographer Romain Jacquet-Lagrèze scouted eight distinctive locations of Hong Kong and captured their unique beauty at the twilight hour of dusk. Whether it’s the illuminated skyline of the Victoria Harbour or the rural stilt houses of Tai O, the common destinations of the city reveal themselves in a new ‘blue’ light through Romain Jacquet-Lagrèze’s lenses. These photographs serve as a reference to Vacheron Constantin’s range of Overseas watches that are perfect for the modern jetsetter.
Be it the Overseas Chronograph for the gentlemen or the Overseas Small Model for the ladies, the watches perfectly complement both formalwear and casualwear, thanks to their interchangeable straps. For the world traveller, the timepiece displays no less than 37 different time zones, including those that are offset by a half hour or quarter hour in relation to UTC time.