Rise of the Titans: Watches crafted from titanium meld lustrous, lightweight allure with great strength

Used by the finest watchmakers for more than 50 years, titanium is blessed with many highly desirable characteristics. While possessing the hardness of stainless steel, titanium is far lighter and it offers excellent resistance to corrosion and hypoallergenic qualities. Sophisticated craftsmanship enables the metal’s precise honing into cases and bracelets of the desired specifications. Its range of hues provides an appealing – and much utilised – extra layer of versatility, too

A combination of strength, lightness and rust resistance explains why titanium is widely used in other precision industries including the automotive, aerospace and marine sectors. Medical instruments, like quality watches, benefit from its skin-friendly properties. Pure, grade 2 titanium or the harder, grade 5, a titanium alloy including vanadium and aluminium, is the metal of choice in watchmaking.

Vacheron Constantin utilised the noble qualities of the metal in a new all-titanium version of the Overseas Tourbillon. By incorporating the robust, featherweight and hypoallergenic qualities of grade 5 titanium into its Overseas catalogue, the Maison gave a further fillip to the sporty and hard-wearing characteristics of the collection.

Unveiled at last year’s Watches and Wonders, the new timepiece is distinguished by the aesthetics of its translucent blue-lacquered dial – emblematic of the line – featuring a sunburst satin-finished base complete with velvet-finished flange. Given the rigidity of the material, the titanium-hewn case, bracelet, crown and bezel required extremely careful workmanship. Powered by the in-house, ultra-thin, self-winding Calibre 2160, the watch is further enhanced by a tourbillon regulator visible at six o’clock through an aperture in the dial.

Chopard has also harnessed the outstanding resistance and aesthetics of this metal to accentuate the signature qualities of some of its finest watches. For instance, the ultra-thin Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT (technical titanium) in grade 5 titanium radiates a darker hue than steel and attributes like lightness of feel and supreme resistance to corrosion will strike a chord with outdoor sports enthusiasts.

Its latest limited-edition L.U.C Full Strike, meanwhile, utilises the enhanced qualities of ceramicised titanium to house its famous minute-repeater movement. Achieved by the oxidation of the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures, ceramicised titanium is even harder than grade 5 titanium and in no way compromises the quality of chime emitted from the solid sapphire gongs attached to a sapphire crystal resonator. Joining other special editions crafted from gold, steel, platinum and sapphire respectively, the anthracite hue of its ceramicised case contrasts beautifully with a verdigris (grey-green) brass dial with a finely frosted centre.

A brand with strong aviation roots, Longines has recently added a model adorned with titanium to its Pilot Majetek range. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition pairs a 43mm cushion-shaped case in grade 5 titanium with a signature bidirectional rotating bezel with Starting Time Indicator – details, along with the recessed dial at six o’clock, that betray a flying tradition. At back, the inhouse calibre L893.6 offers high resistance to magnetism and the case is engraved with the words “Pioneer Edition / One of 1935”.

Maurice Lacroix combines the fine qualities of both grades of this light metal for its new 42mm Aikon Automatic and 44mm Aikon Automatic Chronograph timepieces. Some sport dials of incredibly rich colours that perfectly offset the titanium hues of the case, while an intriguing interplay of finishes between grade 2 and grade 5 is also conjured.

Richard Mille uses the tensile and aesthetic properties of the grade 5 alloy to enhance and project the taut features of its RM 17-02 Manual Winding Tourbillon. The showcase tourbillon movement is housed in a titanium case; skeletonised baseplate and bridges come in the same choice of metal with black PVD treatment. In a show of modern and technical sophistication, the finely textured satin-finished alloy accentuates the three-part tonneau shape and line configuration of the timepiece.

Krayon’s workshops in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, have released their first titanium watch in the form of Anywhere Aurora. Powered by the Calibre C030 movement designed by brand founder Rémi Maillat, this ultra-slim watch weighs just 50g thanks to its titanium construction and the light but super-hard material is shaped and polished assiduously by hand.

The smooth glow of the shimmering case contrasts superbly with an emerald-green dial that changes radiance – from pale to iridescent tones – according to the angle of the sun’s rays. This feat is enabled by an Atomic Layer Deposition process, which coats the dial with ultrathin films of select compounds that can interact with the light. Underscoring the technical marvels of this watch, a peripheral ring around edge of the dial is split into day (mother-of-pearl white) and night (deep green) sections which change length as the days pass and seasons change – a masterstroke that can be altered as the wearer moves around the globe.

A satin-finished and polished titanium case, case back and bezel sets off the masterful visual imagery of Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon. An amazing three-dimensional, multi-level dial recreates the traditional Chinese paper-cutting art of Chen Fenwan, morphing the watch face into a silhouette of a dragon. This fantastical motif continues its journey along the scale-like marquetry bracelet.

By introducing the Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver watch, Angelus embellishes its Chronodate range with a new tone-on-tone colour scheme. Bezel, bracelet, folding buckle, crown and monobloc middle case are all crafted from titanium, projecting a grey hue which extends into the sunray-brushed ‘magnetic silver’ dial. The design of the latest timepiece is deliberately configured to offer enticing colour contrasts.

Ressence’s Type 3 Eucalyptus watch features a unique titanium dial in an attractive soft green hue and a futuristic look. Backed by a patented automatic movement offering 36 hours of power reserve, its 44mm case – also crafted from grade 5 titanium – is partly filled with oil to ensure that the floating hands-free dial can be read from all angles through indicators for days, seconds, minutes and hours. A textile strap is fashioned from plush Alcantara.

Platinum Pinnacle: Watchmakers exhibit a rare show of strength when crafting collectibles from this coveted metal

Watches crafted from platinum have rightly earned an exalted reputation for utilising perhaps the most prestigious metal in the high-end market. Ensuring striking aesthetics in luscious silvery tones, the gorgeous metallic finish combines well with many hues. Indeed, such is the lustre of platinum watches that they are often reserved for special-edition pieces. In addition, the superior strength, denseness and durability of this rare metal compared to gold make its manufacture an engineering and technical masterclass, while offering incredible versatility.

Take the new Platinum Edition Excalibur Monobalancier released by Roger Dubuis. The maison has been able to channel the durable and visually appealing qualities of platinum to mould a highly expressive timepiece that will stand the test of time. Emanating a vivid mint green colour, it features a striking skeletonised design with many signature elements and intricate line patterns. The expertise required in the making of the piece explains its exclusivity, as just 30g of platinum can be extracted from 10 tonnes of mineral, necessitating ultra-high fusion temperatures and engineering expertise. 

Powered by the RD720SQ automatic self-winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the watch comes in a 42mm case with an open caseback crafted from platinum PT950 – the highest quality of platinum used in jewellery and prized in watchmaking for its outstanding anti-allergenic quality and resistance to tarnishing. Its eye-catching dial has a green lacquered double surface flange incorporating engraved minute track and transferred texts, as well as polished rhodium-plated hour markers.

Marking a first for the brand, Arnold & Son has leveraged the supreme qualities of 950 platinum in its latest Globetrotter release. The 45mm case of the limited-edition Globetrotter Platinum resonates with the magnificence of the precious metal, while the marvellous central globe pays tribute to the 18th-century maritime roots of John Arnold, the esteemed English watchmaking pioneer. The in-house automatic A&S6022 movement is decorated with a circular-grained and NAC (N-Acetylcysteine)-treated main plate that sits well with the colour and character of the platinum case. The bridges of the movement are also NAC-finished, and exhibit chamfered and polished Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre. 

The Globetrotter’s signature terrestrial globe has rhodium-plated and polished continents with matt detailing on the mountain ranges, and hand-painted blue lacquer and powdered mother-of-pearl oceans and shores. A blue alligator-leather strap complements the graduated shades of blue that distinguish the three-dimensional dial.

Patek Philippe’s Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases is the headline attraction of a completely new collection. Etched out of platinum into a shape exhibiting a signature square with rounded corners, the 45mm watch has polished sides on the bezel and case flanks that contrast with the vertical satin-brushed finish of the front of the case and bezel. The timepiece is blessed with the new and outstanding calibre 240 PS CI J LU movement, with six patents required to achieve its instantaneous grand date complication. However, one enduring feature, and a hallmark of all the brand’s platinum models, is the 0.02-carat diamond set into the bezel at six o’clock – which is baguette-cut for the first time. A platinum Cubitus fold-over clasp fastens the navy blue strap with cream stitching. 

Czapek & Cie’s aim when introducing the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition was to use platinum in an unexpected way. Released to celebrate the 70th anniversary of luxury retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the watch boasts a distinctive mirrored dial hewed from a single silicon wafer with its surface polished perfectly smooth and shiny before PVD platinum coating is applied. Limited to just 38 pieces, it is powered by the in-house Calibre SXH5 with a micro-rotor made from recycled 950 platinum. A bimetallic case and bracelet crafted from a blend of steel and yellow gold is designed to complement the mirrored dial.

Vacheron Constantin’s vision is to harness the qualities of platinum for its finest collections – such as the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. The precious metal is used extensively in the latest addition to this range, namely the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and Wonders and limited to just 50 pieces. Watch case, crown, dial, buckle and strap stitching – made of braided silk and platinum thread – are all endowed with the noble 950 platinum material. The inhouse manual-winding Calibre 3200 movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.      

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Lange 1, Swiss maison A. Lange & Söhne has released new versions including an elite platinum model bearing a black onyx dial and limited to 300 pieces with edition number engraving. Meanwhile, a new iteration of the Little Lange 1 housed in a 950 platinum case comes in a 150-piece edition. The manufacture’s calibre L121.1 drives both models.    

The attractive openworked design of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum watch intentionally conjures up a magnificent play on light. The skeletonised, polished and sandblasted oscillating weight of the in-house PF777 movement offers a captivating contrast with the sandblasted and satin-finished Milano blue dial, a phalanx of sharp angles and visual interplay. The polished and satin-finished case crafted from platinum 950 with knurled bezel adds to the spectacle and ensures an even distribution of weight for the timepiece. 

When Breitling decided to reissue the historic AVI 1953 Edition, it also released two limited-edition precious-metal versions, one in platinum with just 153 iterations (a statement which is proudly engraved on the case) and another in rose gold numbering 253 pieces. While the new versions stay true to the renowned aviation roots of the original model, they are now water resistant to 300 metres and omit the ‘GENEVE’ lettering on the surface of the dial surface. Super-LumiNova also ensures luminescent numerals, hour and minute hands. 

Hublot’s Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto Platinum is a limited-edition watch featuring a dial made from genuine Berluti-patinated Venezia leather with embossed indexes. The strap is also fashioned from this exclusive brown leather along with black rubber in a combination that projects a fine contrast to the polished platinum case and bezel. The self-winding HUB1100 movement is secured by a satin-finished platinum caseback featuring brand-related engravings.    

Geneva Watch Craze: As is always the case, the timely annual event unveils a host of dazzling models and dynamic movements

Top players in the world of horology took time to showcase exciting new creations under the magnifying spotlight of avid collectors from near and far at the latest edition of Geneva Watch Days. Some brands ventured into innovative collaborations or considered this eclectic display of novel timepieces the ideal opportunity to present quirky designs. For others, this early autumn celebration of watchmaking ingenuity fell conveniently on landmark anniversaries and therefore represented an ideal moment for the provision of iconic new releases.

Take one of the six founding brands of the inaugural Geneva Watch Days in 2020, Breitling, which is marking 140 years since its 1884 founding. At this august congregation of the great and the good, the watchmaker introduced three new limited-edition versions of models deeply significant to its heritage that feature – in a first for a brand renowned for its aviation classics – a perpetual calendar chronograph movement. Utilised in new Premier, Navitimer and Chronomat timepieces, the in-house B19 movement boasts a solid-gold rotor for the anniversary as well as a perpetual calendar to chart the complexities of leap years and differing month lengths. An attractive moonphase display also embellishes the watches.

Each of the new iterations retains many of the features that have made the collections so desirable to watch aficionados over the years. The Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary model, for instance, has distinctive yet familiar Arabic numerals, while the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary watch sports a beautiful contrast between its signature slide-rule in black and its fetching 18-carat red-gold dial. Likewise, the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary comes with many of its traditional characteristics but also a skeletonised dial, marking another landmark for Breitling.

Three of the Bulgari watches at the fair encompass a disruptive musical element inspired by a collaboration with world-renowned conductor Lorenzo Viotti. The precocious musical talent has helped to craft a distinctively dissonate chiming sound for these reinvented timepieces. Their horological acoustics are achieved through a devilish musical interval known as the tritone, which offers an unsettling soundscape often harnessed by classical composers. The so-called ‘Devil’s interval’ is perfect for creating dramatic tension – plus tantalisingly alerting a watch owner to the precise time at regular intervals via this unique tonal quality.

Powered by a BVV800 manufacture manual-winding mechanical movement with Grande and Petite sonnerie, the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon automatically chimes all the hours and quarters, and can be set to repeat the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. Four gongs and hammers chime the quarters in dissonant notes. For the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, the modified BVL428 calibre means that three notes are emitted on the quarters. Last and least complicated is the two-gong Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon. All three are crafted from different materials to create striking nuances in the chords.

Another novel collaborative effort, this time between Swiss watchmaker Gerald Charles and the world of motorcycling in the guise of Ducati, spawned an entirely new creation at Geneva, the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916. Limited to 250 pieces, this eye-catching timepiece pays homage to the iconic Ducati 916 motorcycle, using superlight and resistant materials familiar in road racing, and displaying time on an open-worked Ducati wheel at the centre of the case. Nodding to the brand’s founder, Gérald Genta, who favoured the complication, a jumping hours calibre indicates the hours on this skeletonised wheel.

Coming in a limited run of 88 pieces, the upgraded Oil Pump model released by Jacob & Co. in Geneva retains its signature bobbing motion to imitate an oil derrick, but this visual treat can now come to life on demand via a pusher at one o’clock and lasts for a mesmerising 35 seconds. Housed in a smaller 44mm case of 18-carat rose gold and sapphire, a single-axis flying tourbillon allows for a more compact design but in no way compromises the intricately crafted effects of the gold-plated derricks, barrel and pipelines on the dial.

By releasing a new civilian version of the Type XX Chronograph in gold and ceramic, Breguet acted on stated intentions to continue to expand the line with different sizes and materials while staying true to its aviation roots. Innovations in this 42mm rose-gold model include a gold bezel with a bidirectional ring crafted out of ceramic, a substance never used before by the manufacture. The elegant sunburst blue dial has three counters with a snailed motif to add depth, and the self-winding Calibre 728 movement – realised just last year and visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback – ensures operational smoothness.

Swiss brand Carl Suchy & Söhne added to its Belvedere collection with golden-looking Champagne and deep-red Bordeaux variants, providing dazzling novel colour schemes designed to entice new admirers. A notable feature of the timepieces is the gold-plated oscillating rotor embellished with micro-engraving of the façade of Vienna’s Belvedere palace. A moving date window enhances a dial whose concave rhodium-plated indexes are filled with SuperLumiNova.

Another collaboration unveiled at Geneva was the remarkable Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke. Independent Swiss brand Louis Erard has gained a reputation over the years for partnerships that defy the norm, and joining forces with Stefan Kudoke has unleashed a timepiece in four variations evoking many signature elements of the German watchmaking maestro’s handiwork. For instance, distinctive three in-line hands on frosted or mother-of-pearl dials; a rhodium-plated railway-track chapter ring and counter rings; and typical Kudoke colour schemes are all notable features.

Blancpain took the opportunity to release new variants in the Villeret collection with a colour code inspired by the Vallée de Joux fir trees, a luscious canopy near the manufacture’s operations. The Extraplate, Quantième Complet, Quantième Phases de Lune and Tourbillon Carrousel all sport beautiful hues of green while retaining the traditional codes of the line.

Geneva Watch Days saw Favre Leuba make a bold statement by releasing, among others, six new Chief references – three for the Chief Chronograph and three for the Chief Date. The ongoing reinvigoration of the 287-year-old brand sees design reinterpretations of a modernised retro style from the 1970s melded with updated contemporary aesthetics. Also, inserted at their heart are intricate movements from Manufacture La Joux-Perret.

Clearly Superior: Tough as they come, sapphire watches cut a distinctive transparent dash on the wrist

The fantastic qualities of sapphire have been used to enrich high-end watches for many years. Sapphire crystal, whether natural or synthetic, is one of the hardest substances on earth, almost as hard as diamonds. Synthetic sapphire is formed by crystallising pure aluminium oxide at exceedingly high temperatures to form a single crystal structure that is transparent, virtually scratch-proof, and so hard that expensive tools are required to cut and polish it.

Nevertheless, major names in watchmaking are harnessing sapphire’s desirable qualities to produce innovative timekeeping instruments that push boundaries. Ultimately, sapphire crystal is favoured because of its clarity, durability and longevity, scratch-resistance, anti-reflective properties and high-temperature tolerance. Most often it appears as a protective crystal dome over the watch face and a transparent caseback to showcase the movement, but it can also be utilised for the entire watch case, the bezel, and on the hands to protect against shock.

Hublot has used all the fine qualities of sapphire to create the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu watch. In this visually stunning creation, celebrity Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi of Sang Bleu studio has transposed his three-dimensional geometric craftsmanship onto a new iteration of the famous watch, imparting depth, transparency and aesthetic distinctiveness. The complexities of the polygonal tattooing necessitated machining sapphire that stretched the technology to its limits. Despite this, the Big Bang spirit remains intact, including its 42mm diameter and barrel shape. Sapphire features prominently, from the dial, with the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph clearly visible, to its case and bezel.

It takes more than 100 hours of work for the incised, chiselled, angled and faceted features of this watch to be machined into the hardness of the demanding sapphire material. Amazingly, the only non-transparent elements of the timepiece are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp.

Hublot has also released a Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire watch, with its seven-barrel, 14-day power reserve movement, in an alluring “glacier blue” shade. The novelty is based on a new chemical formula that retains the brilliant, luminous, transparent and resistant qualities of sapphire while also acting as a magnifier for the emblematic barrel of the timepiece.

Limited to 25 pieces a year, Armin Strom’s Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple watch has a grey-toned off-centre dial utilising transparent sapphire crystal. Only seen in the Ultimate Sapphire editions, this material brings out the elegance of the purple main plate handcrafted in the atelier of Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen with a guilloché-engraved barley-grain motif. This vibrant hue adds additional panache to a range noted not only for its transparency but also for being the first automatic watch endowed with an equal-force transmission integrated into the mainspring barrel, providing consistent power transmission and ensuring constant precision.

Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 Sapphire White from Swiss tourbillon watchmaker Bianchet is noted for being the first sapphire crystal case to integrate rubber seams into its construction. This remarkable fusion of materials and technology specifically made for this watch affords an unerringly clear perspective of the intricate movement housed within the softly curved tonneau case. In a timepiece limited to 21 pieces, the titanium-made components of the flying tourbillon appear to float – a trick of the ball-bearing mechanism – and are arranged under the principles of the Fibonacci spiral.

Harry Winston’s Ocean Biretrograde Diamond Waves Automatic 36mm model also utilises an open, transparent caseback made of sapphire crystal to reveal the intricacies of its HW3302 movement. This addition to the Ocean Collection has a white beaded mother-of-pearl dial set with streams of baguette-cut diamonds (51 in total) and baguette-cut blue sapphires (33). These precious embellishments to the watch face allude to the aquatic spirit of the collection and the movement of waves.

Limited to just eight models, HYT’s Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires timepiece fuses innovative tourbillon design utilising a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees with the aesthetic allure of sapphire gemstones in its construction. Three strikingly coloured and rotating sapphire gemstones – in fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – guard the periphery of the conical tourbillon while also serving to magnify the watch’s breathtaking heartbeat. Six slightly smaller sapphires rest within the tourbillon’s brackets, further elevating the attraction of the animated display, which is boldly encased in rose gold and black titanium and protected by a sapphire crystal dome.

Dressed with anti-reflective coating, the tough, translucent and scratch-resistant sapphire that forms the 45mm case and caseback of the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Ice Blue watch by Bell & Ross is derived by melting alumina powder to temperatures exceeding 2,000°C. With aesthetics influenced by aeronautics, a dial composed of skeletonised faceted sapphire contrasts with the boldness of a blue anodised steel skull that sports a mocking smile. The mechanical BR-CAL.209 movement boasts a 48-hour power reserve and animates the skull and jaw of this remarkable 25-piece edition.

Utilising a case cut from a block of a standout material called NanoSaphir, the Tiny Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Chameleon watch by ArtyA exhibits a stunning light show on the wrist. While all the time maintaining clarity, its colour shifts in response to changes in ambient light. Treatments designed to alter the material’s optical properties mean that this high-tech, tinted synthetic sapphire will change from amber-orange to bright green depending on whether it is exposed to natural or artificial light.

Sapphire blue CVD coating distinguishes the striking dial of the Chronoswiss Delphis Sapphire watch, which also catches the eye with its three-dimensional construction and hand guilloché. Limited to just 50 pieces, it features the signature elements of the range – jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and oversized onion crown – in a case protected by double anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The transparent crystal extends to the satin-finished screwed-down caseback, further enhancing its durability and water-resistance qualities.

Multi-coloured precious sapphires embellish an exquisite iteration of Damiani’s Margherita Watch. This line of secret watches dazzles with a design derived from the shape of daisies.

Dynamic Ceramic: The high-tech watch material that offers scratch protection and a wearable lightness of being

Ceramic watches can project style and sophistication while possessing strength and endurance. The strong, light, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic ceramic is usually created from powders like zirconium dioxide, zirconium oxide and yttrium that are pressed into shape and fired at extremely high temperatures. Add to this the elegance embodied in the material itself and these timepieces are among the most versatile in the market and are much sought after.

Take Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, which for the first time offers all-ceramic options, with a bracelet made of patented black ceramic and case also hewn from this sturdy material. Two of the iterations bring contrasting colour to the dial in splendid shades of blue or green, a quite beautiful effect magnified in the light by the striking gradient and sunburst finish of the watch face. This is a sublime marriage of the strength of ceramic and the poetic reproduction of the brand’s statement moon-phase complication at six o’clock.

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range – introduced in 1956 by Blancpain as a diver’s watch that could be worn daily – has long been associated with cutting-edge timekeeping. All of the high-tech material is manufactured in Switzerland for environmental reasons, and it offers comfortable durability; the ceramic is an incredible five times harder than stainless steel. Meticulous craftsmanship enhances the line’s aesthetic qualities via its satin finish, as does the workmanship involved in the alignment of the bracelet links.

Omega has long appreciated the fine qualities of ceramic watches, whose lightweight and scratch-resistant properties suit arduous sporting activities while offering an elegance ideal for the chronograph. Just last year, the brand released the Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey model crafted using silicon nitride ceramic for the 45.5mm case, patented Naiad Lock screw-down caseback and bezel ring.

It represented an innovative step in the world of watchmaking, since this compound – two times lighter than zirconium ceramic – had never previously featured to such an extent on an Omega watch. An added benefit aside from its super toughness is its lightness, so it feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Grade 5 titanium used by the aerospace industry dresses the bezel body, sand-blasted dial and folding clasp of the rubber strap, enhancing durability without loading on much additional weight.

A pioneer in black ceramic watches, Hublot has been changing the game over recent years with the introduction of a slew of brightly coloured variants. Models in vibrant red, blue and a striking yellow hue have successively been released. The latest is the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, like the others a coloured transparent ceramic achieved through the incorporation of pigments. To do this, zirconium oxide is heated to 1,700°C for colouration, while intense pressure renders only the colour pigments visible. Complex in-house R&D development has mastered every colour, resulting in a patented ceramic that is durable and scratch-resistant.

This latest Unico Ceramic, like the others, has a uniform hue with a mirror polish over the exterior components, including the dial counters and hands. Limited to 250 pieces and powered by the brand’s flyback chronograph movement, the 42mm-diameter timepiece is blessed with many of the signature features of other Big Bang models, such as a column wheel at six o’clock, bicompax layout, silicon escapement and skeleton architecture.

Roger Dubuis harnesses the material’s advantages by presenting two new black ceramic watches in the Excalibur family. A highly complex manufacturing process was required to ensure that the signature shapes of these timepieces were not compromised – the final grinding of hard material took 10 times longer than usual and demanded extreme craftsmanship. As a res ult, the 45mm case, bezel and crown of the Excalibur Monobalancier Black Ceramic edition are extremely resistant to marks of any kind. Housed within the case of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic is the RD108 calibre and two signature tourbillons rebuilt with lighter materials.

By employing the benefits of both titanium and ceramic, Chopard grabbed collectors’ attention this spring with a new L.U.C Full Strike watch in ceramicised titanium, a material derived from oxidising the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures using electro-plasma technology. Aside from coming in an attractive anthracite colour, the 42.50mm ceramicised titanium case boasts superior hardness and shock-resistance properties, as well as lightness of weight. A verdigris brass dial with a finely frosted centre offers distinctive contrast.

A limited-edition release inspired by the design of stealth aircraft, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic watch by Bell & Ross cuts a discreet avant-garde statement on the wrist. Worn with a rubber strap, the 42mm high-tech ceramic case is characterised by sharp edges, visually creating a 3-D effect and offering water resistance to 50 metres. The Swiss-made BR-CAL.383 automatic movement comes with a 48-hour power reserve. Also measuring 42mm in diameter, the recently released BR 03 Diver Black Matte Ceramic exudes a contemporary sporty appeal. A unidirectional rotating bezel in black ceramic with 60-minute scale circles the standout square case in the same material.

The bezel of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is a gleaming 24-hour graduated monobloc of two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. These special ceramic materials developed exclusively by the brand not only exhibit hues of rare intensity, they also are inert, virtually scratchproof and cannot corrode. Numerals coated with platinum applied via PVD (physical vapour deposition) serve to enhance the visibility of the moulded, recessed graduations.

Panerai embraces the modern marvels of the material in the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic 44mm Ceramic. A Swiss-made P.9010 automatic mechanical movement with a three-day power reserve drives the timepiece, which is crafted from high-tech and exceptionally sturdy ceramic derived from a complex process in its manufacture. It has the signature features of the iconic Lumina range, including crown with protective shield for time adjustments and manual winding.

The peak of sporty endurance, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere CARBO₂ 0 Oxygen Limited Edition watch is distinguished by a black ceramic bi-directional rotating bezel sitting on a titanium case devoid of oxygen. Creating the CARBO₂ case involves an engineering process that ensures extreme resilience at high altitudes with no danger of fogging or oxidisation.

Good as Gold: From red to lime to ‘magic’, a watch hewn from a golden hue radiates success 

Luxurious gold watches undoubtedly carry an air of distinction and grace. Many believe these golden masterpieces of craftsmanship will somehow bring success and good luck, such is the distinctiveness of their charming colours. Another essential quality is their timelessness; these are some of the most elegant timepieces in the high-end market, and no fluctuations in the vagaries of fashion can diminish their intrinsic appeal. Indeed, their allure elevates any style of attire while projecting power.

The beautiful contrasting effect of colour tones that gold can inspire is surely what drove Vacheron Constantin to render four pink-gold models – chronograph, dual time, date in case diameters of 41mm and 35mm – from its Overseas Collection with a new green dial, a colour never used in the range before. The sheer intensity of this luscious, lacquered deep-green dial featuring a sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange magnifies the splendour of its pink-gold case. This contrast was specifically designed to bring a new signature aesthetic to the brand’s sporty-chic watches. The new dial colour also enhances the legibility of the Super-LumiNova-treated pink-gold hour markers and hands.

The four models utilise self-winding calibres with a 22-carat pink-gold oscillating weight featuring the collection’s emblematic compass rose. The 18-carat 5N pink-gold case matches wonderfully with the integrated pink-gold bracelet whose polished and satin-brushed links, secured by a pink-gold triple-blade quick-release folding clasp with push-pieces, subtly reveal the Maltese cross.

Chopard emphasises that its recent addition of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in 18-carat rose gold is crafted from an ethically-sourced alloy – indeed all the brand’s models since July 2018 have taken the ethical-gold route, smelted at its own precious metals foundry.

The rose gold extends to the 44mm case that is water resistant to 100 metres, 8mm crown engraved with the compass rose, bezel with eight screws set at a tangent, and tapered in-house bracelet of wide links with satin-brushed sides, polished central cap, triple folding clasp and safety pushers. These myriad gold features offer a pleasant contrast to the bernina grey of a dial achieved by galvanic treatment – a colour palette evoking the Alpine landscape. Powered by the Chopard 03.05-C movement, the watch excites with its technical prowess of a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock whose hand makes semi-instantaneous jumps and an aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock that also jumps semi-instantaneously.

Swiss master Gerald Charles has just released the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon featuring a hand-hammered dial of pure uncoated 18-carat rose gold. It takes years of experience and fine craftsmanship to create these types of dials, and the hours of endeavour required results in only two per month emerging from the workshop.

Limited to just 50 pieces, each model is a unique statement with its face offering a homogenous feel and fine texture as well as durability and resistance. Interesting technical accomplishments include a blue bezel in grade 5 titanium with specialised coating derived from the aeronautical industry, and a 60-seconds flying tourbillon with a tourbillon cage, also in titanium, designed by Octavio Garcia and representing the Gerald Charles logo. The tourbillon also has a surgical-grade stainless steel case and a gold tourbillon bridge, all combining to create surreal three dimensional contrasts.

Hublot presents two new watches in its Square Bang Unico collection which utilise the properties of its scratch-resistant 18-carat gold known as Magic Gold.

Retaining the signature geometry of the iconic modern series, both the Square Bang Unico Magic Gold and Square Bang Unico Ceramic Magic Gold are crafted from a solid block, with the signature large bezel with six H-shaped screws forming a stunning statement piece. ‘Magic gold’, which has been certified as 18-carat gold, has extraordinary hardness and scratch-resistance qualities above standard gold – meaning these watches offer both durability and the lustre of the precious metal.

This year Rolex harnesses the luxurious qualities of gold via two new 18-carat additions to its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller series.

Utilising the signature Calibre 9002 movement, a mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding properties via a perpetual rotor, these world-traveller watches feature a Jubilee bracelet in a precious metal for the first time – either the brand’s Everose gold paired with a slate dial or yellow gold juxtaposed with a white dial. Distinguished by polished centre links, satin-finished outer links with polished edges and ceramic inserts, the bracelet’s Easylink comfort extension link allows the option of an extra 5mm in length. The gold caseback, which is hermetically screwed down to achieve waterproofing to 100 metres, is edged with fine fluting. The precious metal also graces the hour markers, hands and bezel.

Last year Montblanc launched two versions of the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva boasting an innovative bezel-activated chronograph.

Just 28 watches were manufactured with an 18-carat lime-gold bezel – compared to 100 pieces in white gold. A click of the unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph, which stops with a second click, and is reactivated by a third push. The crown is fluted in lime gold and sports the Montblanc emblem in relief, and the dark green dial has beige luminescent Arabic numerals and indexes coated in gold.

Another standout gold watch duo can be found at Audemars Piguet. The new 34mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding timepieces reveal ‘Crystal Sand’ finished dials in 18-carat white or yellow gold that sublimely set off the frosted finish of the hammered gold case and bracelet with folding clasp. In a distinctive touch of contrast, the yellow-gold version has white-gold applied hour markers and hands. For each, the brand signature is applied on the dial in the same gold tone as the decorations.

Part of the Villeret collection, Blancpain’s Quantième Perpétuel Phases de Lune is resplendent in a 40.3mm red-gold case. Powered by the Calibre 5954.4 automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the moon-phase complication displayed on the opaline dial accurately tracks the lunar cycles of the month, while the perpetual calendar indicates the correct date for a century without manual intervention.

Housed in a case made of 18-carat rose gold, the Ocean Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mmLimited Edition by Harry Winston ramps up high-jewellery bling with scores of glistening baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds totalling more than 38 carats. Buttressed by its gold base, the glittering dial is further highlighted by a moon-phase disc coated with blue varnish and a yellow-gold moon cabochon crafted by hand.

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TIME commence 2024

Superb watch & clock fair a must-see event

Register now for free admission

Always guaranteed to attract watch enthusiasts and industry players from around the world, the 43rd Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, together with the 12th Salon de TIME, will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center (HKCEC) from 3-7 September 2024.

The parallel events are jointly organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd.

The fairs will return in EXHIBITION+ hybrid model, complemented by the “Click2Match”, an online smart business matching platform that will operate on 27 August – 14 September, providing a convenient and efficient platform for traders to connect.

World’s premier timepiece event – Be on Time

As the world’s premier timepiece event and one of Hong Kong’s mega events, the fairs provide a one-stop trading platform for the industry. Centred around the theme “Be on Time”, the fairs present an extensive selection of premium watches across various categories – from luxury and high-fashion designs to technologically-advanced and sustainable models. The diverse lineup also includes collaborative branded timepieces, limited editions, customised watches, and creations by independent watchmakers, offering buyers a dynamic and comprehensive sourcing experience.

Categories of Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair

For example,“Pageant of Eternity” displays a variety of high-end collection of exquisite finished watches. Other exhibiting categories consist of “Complete Watches”, “Pre-owned Watches”, “Clocks”, “Machinery & Equipment”, “OEM Smart Watches”, “Packaging & Display”, “Parts, Components & Accessories” and “Trade Services”, making it convenient for buyers to source.

Salon de TIME

Salon de TIME features renowned watch brands and designer collections in five themed zones: World Brand Piazza, Chic & Trendy, Craft Treasure, Renaissance Moment, and Wearable Tech. Salon de TIME is open to trade buyers and public visitors for the five-day physical fair period this year. Celebrity events, watch parades and lucky draw sessions will be arranged. Selected items are also available for sale.

Five themed zones of Salon de TIME:

• World Brand Piazza, the major highlight will display limited editions and rare timepieces of numerous international prestigious brands;

• Chic & Trendy features trendsetters and fashion-driven watch brands, including Ice-Watch (Belgium), Infantry (Japan), ROMAGO (Switzerland) and Bruce Lee (US);

• Craft Treasure showcases mechanical watches and flawless craftsmanship of jewellery-laden watches, including Anpassa (Hong Kong), Memorigin (Hong Kong) and SAGA (US);

• Renaissance Moment showcases classic and elegant watch brands originated in Europe, such as, Pierre Lannier (France), Gagà MILANO (Italy) and Solvil et Titus (Switzerland). Among them, the Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion (SIWP), International Luxury Group (ILG) and Francéclat will showcase various outstanding independent watch labels;

• Oskron (Germany) in Wearable Tech will bring an array of smart watches with dynamic technology.

Highlighted Watches:

Watch of the Year: Barista Collection

Brand: STEPPER

Country/Region: Hong Kong

Milano x Change MXG3118 Men’s Wristwatch

Brand: Milano x Change

Country/Region: Italy

SPACE WATCH

Brand: SAGA

Country/Region: USA

MASSA DUE WATCH

Brand: AIGNER

Country/Region: Germany

WP4 Black Green

Brand: WATCHPEOPLE

Country/Region: Switzerland

Chronograph Analog Watch – For Men LC07319.360

Brand: Lee Cooper

Country/Region: UK

Captivating Events & Activities

An array of watch parades, seminars, buyer forums and networking events will be held during the fair period to present the latest market insights and inspiration to industry players and facilitate business interaction. On 3 September, representatives of major watch associations around the world will gather at the Hong Kong International Watch Forum to discuss the global trade performance, forecast the market trends for the coming year, and foster the global watch industry towards sustainability.

At the Asian Watch Conference on 4 September, a market research analyst from Euromonitor will reveal the latest outlook for the watch industry, while a representative from Huawei Device BG will share insights on the prospects of wearable technology. Leadership representing the brand of Pierre Lannier and France Horlogerie will outline the emerging trends shaping the fashion watch industry.

Watch & Clock Design Competition

To promote exchange in local watch and clock design as well as fostering creativity, the HKTDC, Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Associations Ltd. and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd. have jointly organised the 41st Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition again this year.

Student and Open groups

Under the theme of “Talent Moment” for the student group and “Go Beyond Innovation” for the open group, winners will be announced at the fair and winning pieces will be displayed during the fair at Hall 1 Concourse. Newly introduced this year is the “The Made-to-Sell Award” which will be presented to the student group entry demonstrating exceptional marketability. The winning entry will be manufactured under guidance of the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and will be officially launched in the retail market at HKTDC Design Gallery.

Enamel Polish: Intricately crafted grand feu dials take timepieces into another dimension

Enamel timepieces represent some of the most elegant and beautiful models available in the high-end watch market. The process of constructing an enamel dial is time-consuming and expensive. It involves fusing soft glass – usually made from silica – onto a metal substrate in an oven heated to about 800°C – hence the term grand feu enamel – and delicately applying layers of enamel powder by paintbrush onto a wafer-thin metal disc.

It is a temperamental material that may emerge from the oven with imperfections. Successive coats and multiple firing cycles are required for a uniform surface – the need for five or more layers of enamel is usual. Yet, the watch dials can be just a millimetre thick, if not thinner. The craft takes years of practice and often renders each dial unique.

A fine example of a dazzling enamel watch is Vacheron Constantin’s recent addition to its Métiers d’Art collection. Tribute to Explorer Naturalists embraces, in fact, four models each released in 10-piece limited editions and designed as a tribute to the scientific discoveries of the Voyage of the Beagle in the early 1830s. The dexterity of the master engravers and enamellers comes to the fore in the aesthetics of richly decorated grand feu miniature enamel dials displaying scenes from four locations along the coast of South America, where Charles Darwin encountered previously unknown plants and animals.

Encased in a 41-mm diameter 18-carat white or pink gold case and featuring a jumping hours and minutes display, each scene took a master enameller four days of meticulous craftsmanship to compose, using fine pigments on a two-level dial. For instance, the white-gold Cap-Vert model concentrates on the Cape Verde stop (January 1832), with the upper dial displaying the HMS Beagle in the centre, viewed from the stern, while the lower dial on the right enthrals with a montage of colourful flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Breguet’s Classique Dragon 7145 celebrates the Chinese zodiac with the powerful dragon exotically embellishing a distinctive dial composed of red grand feu enamel with gold applied – a perfect combination to bring out the majesty of the auspicious creature. Utilising a Calibre 502.5 self-winding movement housed in a rose-gold case, the watch is limited to eight pieces and blessed with a power reserve of 45 hours.

Chopard often calls upon the power of the enamellist to highlight the aesthetic qualities of a watch. Take its Imperiale in 18-carat ethical white gold, which has two enamel colour tones gracing the dial. Most noticeably, a deep, luscious blue-green enamel sets the tone of this feminine watch, which is encircled by white enamel-filled arabesques formed out of a raised white-gold decorative fillet. Its elegance is enhanced by a shower of padparadscha sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, as well as gilded openwork dagger-shaped hour and minute hands. A seamless alligator strap in blue-green or pink comes with a white-gold buckle set with diamonds.

Representing a first for the minimalist Louis Erard Le Régulateur model, an edition just off the blocks has a dial made with grand feu enamel. Unlike a traditional dial, an enamel dial comes without the risk of fading and the unalterable hue here is a slightly speckled ivory colour. It is the handiwork of the Donzé Cadrans workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The hours counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock come in two-colour enamel detail, fused together by the final firing. Crafted in polished stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is limited to 99 pieces, underscoring the exclusivity of enamel-dial watches.

Dedicated to métiers d’art, Geneva-based Taos has a range of one-of-a-kind watches that employ the luxuriousness of enamel. The Euphorie is dressed in a grand feu paillonné enamel dial, achieved through a multiple overlay of gold and silver paillons and enamel emanating from multiple firings. Its bold colour code comprises red, orange and black. The self-winding VOP318 calibre movement was developed exclusively by Swiss manufacturer Télôs for the independent watchmaker. The pretty Floréal model has a silver, blue and pink dial with a miniature flower painting etched out of mother-of-pearl placed on paillonné enamel. Delightful petals are formed out of cloisonné enamel.

The pink-gold Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ timepiece was released by Jaeger-Lecoultre in homage to the ancient crafts of enamelling and engraving. Both the dial and case back are composed of grand feu enamel in such a pure black hue that they required five or six layers of enamel to ensure the depth of colour is retained. This was a lengthy process as each new layer necessitated another round of firing and cooling – meaning the process took many days, eventually culminating in a half-day of polishing. Other notable features include the dragon etched out of pink gold and set among golden clouds on the reverse side of the case and the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually wound Calibre 822 movement.

Limited to 50 pieces, Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar entered its second 12-year cycle this year with a new addition utilising full-fired grand feu enamel for its dial. Marking a first for this unique grand complication series that boasts both a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase, it pairs red gold with a green enamel dial for a striking colour code. The patented under-lug correctors that facilitate finger-tip changes of the calendar are also worthy of remark. Another nifty mechanism protects from damage if settings are adjusted during automatic changes.

Cartier’s latest Crocodile Jewellery watches utilise the aesthetics and magical beauty of enamel to full effect. Graded enamel is used to recreate a sculptural creature in the guise of a crocodile which coils menacingly around the case and dial. The crocodile’s bright emerald eye, its scaly skin and slick curves crafted from enamel portray depth and realism and harmonise with the hues emanating from diamonds and gemstones adorning the timepiece. Besides a crocodile and a crocodile-cum-zebra, there are numerous other iterations of these bewitching, bejewelled animal watches that cannot fail to capture the imagination.

Seiko’s Presage SPB403J1 model in the Craftmanship Series features an enamel dial as part of its attributes, wedged in a 40.2-mm case made of stainless steel with super-hard coating. Its dual-curved sapphire crystal glass is daubed with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. Powered by a 6R55 automatic manually wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, it is water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and has a see-through case back.

Geneva Invention: Showcasing the new crop of imaginative timepieces to watch and wonder

Watches and Wonders is the year’s standout event in the world of horology, a time when many watchmakers release new offerings to an eager public fascinated by the elegance, beauty and mechanical sophistication on display. The Geneva gathering also serves to reinforce the signature statements of the top manufactures.

Take Cartier, which pulled out all the stops to supplement existing collections with intriguing tweaks and exciting alternatives. A highlight was the exotic appeal of a different creature joining its menagerie of Animal Jewellery watches. The new timepiece is a breathtaking convergence of the aesthetic beauty of a zebra and a crocodile. This mythical multi-striped creature – a figment of the imagination – wraps itself around a lozenge-shaped dial of diamond pavé or black lacquer. The coiled design of the case, crafted from white, yellow or rose gold, is variously studded with green tsavorite garnets, rubies or black spinel, and each stripe is meticulously lacquered by hand.

The eighth iteration of the prestigious Cartier Privé line is a reworking of the Tortue watch, first introduced in 1912. Three hour-and-minute versions have a slimmer profile and are noticeably lighter than the original model while retaining significant design details including apple-shaped hands and a rail track following the curves of the iconic tortoise-shaped case. Collectors will surely crave the Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, available in platinum with a silvered opaline dial or yellow gold with a grained gold-finish dial. The monopusher chronograph graced the Tortue in 1928 and again in 1998, with the new version retaining many of the features of the reinterpreted model, such as the hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangle motifs at the corners of the dial, though subtle changes enhance the harmony of a cabochon-ruby crown set in precious metal. The movement is just 4.3 mm thick, and rhodium-plated Roman numerals, and the azure effect of the two chronograph counters distinguishes the dial.

New and innovative Santos timepieces were also introduced, in particular a Dual-Time model and the Santos-Dumont Rewind that can tell the time backwards via an inverted set of Roman numeral indices appearing counter-clockwise around the dial.

Rolex presented two new 18-carat-gold versions of its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller watch for sophisticated jetsetters, both fitted with the supple five-piece-link Jubilee bracelet in precious metal for the first time. One model has an Everose-gold band distinguished by a slate dial with a sunray finish, while the yellow-gold bracelet of the other contrasts with an intense white satin-finish dial. Both have hands featuring highly legible Chromalight, which emits long-lasting luminescence and a blue glow. The brand has also made subtle updates to its GMT-Master II model.

Following three years of development, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted new Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (38 mm) and Lady Jour Nuit (33 mm) models at Watches and Wonders. In a simply beguiling effect worthy of the Poetic Complications collection to which these timepieces belong, their dials display a diamond-paved moon in continuous pursuit of the sun across a sky studded with stars. They are cased in white gold and diamonds, offer a self-interchangeable alligator-leather strap, and are powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that rotates a disk once every 24 hours. Aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl, white gold, yellow gold and diamonds dress the dial, with the larger watch encrusting its sun with yellow sapphires.

In another enchanting creation, two plique-à-jour enamel butterflies flutter among swaying flowers caught by a summer breeze on the face of the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch. The extraordinary dial of the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée watch depicts flowers used as a bed by a fairy after they are picked in the day (Jour Enchanté) version.

Patek Philippe unveiled a total of 11 new iterations, most notably a full production model of the innovative watch that was released as a limited edition last year with a world-first feature – a date display synchronised with local time. Utilising the patented differential system of its self-winding calibre 240 HU C movement, the World Time Ref 5330G-001 has a dial of blue-grey opaline with the date shown on its periphery.

When Ulysse Nardin first released the Freak, it was considered revolutionary for eschewing the traditional watch dial, hands and crown in favour of an orbital flying one-hour carousel and a balance wheel, hairspring and escapement made of silicon. For the Freak S Nomad, the hour disc that sits behind the ‘spaceship’ movement features a sand-dune-like diamond guilloché pattern with CVD (chemical vapour disposition) coating.

Of particular note among a slew of watches introduced by Grand Seiko during Watches and Wonders is the Sport Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275. Released in homage to the 9R Spring Drive movement and limited to 700 pieces, its startling feature is a radiant colour-changing dial. Taking inspiration from the glowing colours emanating from the peaks of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range half an hour before and after sunrise, the watch face seems to strike a different hue depending on the viewing angle – a feat achieved by the brand’s patented ‘Optical Multilayer Coating’ system.

Another watch whose dial nods to nature’s beauty is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, fully crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold. The Bernina Grey colour of the brass dial, achieved by galvanic treatment, is inspired by the gorgeous hues and natural splendours of the Alpine rocks, while its sunburst stamping reminds of the iris of the noble bird of prey. The chronometer-certified movement with flyback function boasts three separate patents.

Roger Dubuis premiered four watches at Watches and Wonders including the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, which comes in a blaze of powerful colours befitting its name. The brand’s signature flying tourbillons are contained within a 45 mm pink-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback, while the pink gold bezel is set with 72 stones comprising red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. A further nine glistening stones in hues inspired by the sunrise embellish the dial of this watch, which is limited to just eight pieces.

Panerai also unloaded numerous new timepieces during the goings-on at Geneva. The 44 mm Submersible Quaranta Quattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech, blessed with a blue sun-brushed or white matte-grained dial, is forged from the innovative Ti-Ceramitech material created at the watchmaker’s Neuchâtel lab. This titanium ceramisation process delivers a supremely tough and hardy timepiece that is nonetheless 44% lighter than steel.

Time & Tide: Models for aqua men and women to sail accurately into the sunset

Sailing is one of the most intense outdoor pursuits and watches designed to cope with the rigours of the highly competitive sport need, at the very least, to be hardwearing and waterproof. Better still, they should possess ultimate accuracy, countdown timers for the start of each race, and tools to indicate tide level. An essential compass, a barometer showing air-pressure variation and multiple time zones are also worthy attributes.

Rolex’s association with the world of sailing stretches back to the 1950s, and its Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master series is considered essential regatta gear by many. The timepieces have a range of features tailored to the demands of sporting life on the ocean wave. For instance, the bidirectional 60-minute graduated bezel, hewed from either gold or platinum or fitted with Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic, is marked by polished graduations and numerals which are raised to enable the wearer to read time intervals, for instance between two buoys, accurately.

The sailing watches come with either a paramagnetic escape wheel (calibre 2236) or a Chronergy escapement (calibre 3235) movement. The latter has strong anti-magnetic properties and is known for its high energy efficiency. Crucially for sailing, its Parachrom hairspring made of a paramagnetic alloy not only strengthens resistance to shocks but also enhances stability under variable temperature conditions. This stability is ably supported by high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.

The dials feature large hour markers and broad hands filled with luminescent material that boosts legibility under all sailing conditions by emitting a glow lasting longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. The scratchproof sapphire crystal features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for the ultimate in visual enhancement. Bracelets are equipped with patented Oysterlock safety clasps to prevent accidental opening, which could be critical in a racing environment.

Omega’s 45.5 mm Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph watch pays homage to the turquoise colours of Emirates Team New Zealand, which will compete at the America’s Cup in Barcelona in August. Contrasting the deep black that dresses the rest of this large model, the aqua hue appears on the indicator hand, subdial ring, minute track, number 12 and seconds, brushed black ceramic pushers, helium escape valve and Omega logo on the crown. A countdown indicator with a flagged start appears at 3 o’clock.

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of gravity seen in standard vertically held timepieces of the era. The excellence of his chronometers at sea was lauded by the French navy. Joining Breguet’s seafaring line, the Marine Tourbillon 5577 pays tribute to the early invention of the manufacture with an ultra-thin tourbillon positioned at 5 o’clock and rotating in 60 seconds – the traditional concept that acts to cancel out gravitational errors. Water resistant to 100 metres and constructed of materials that provide resistance to corrosion and wear, plus gravitational fields, the self-winding movement with peripheral oscillating weight is visible through a sapphire caseback.

The spirit of exploration and designing watches that can withstand the most challenging and inhospitable of environments lies behind the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Collection. The latest addition to the line – Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Exploration – features a sfumato iced-blue glacier-patterned dial created using a special layered technique called gratté boisé that involves more than 30 steps. Here it creates the impression of staring at the oxygen-free blue-toned Antarctic ice. In a reaction to this harsh environment for which the watch was designed, the titanium case is devoid of oxygen internally, preventing oxidisation and fogging. The components are thus rendered far more durable to foster long-lasting precision.

Another interesting attribute is a complication of turning Northern and Southern hemisphere globes at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock with a 24-hour scale and day and night indication, meaning it is possible to see the time anywhere across the globe quickly and easily.

Chopard’s Happy Ocean is a chic water-sports model with a steel and 18-carat rose gold case. Aided by a rose gold screw-down crown, it offers water resistance all the way down to 300 metres, where visibility is assisted by applied gilded hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova. As expected of this watch line, its galvanic-treated wave-pattered blue dial features five dancing diamonds.

Ulysse Nardin has had a long association with marine chronometers and continues to craft timepieces suitable for the ardours of the ocean. Two recent additions, Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure, offer increased durability and increased usage of recycled materials to nurture the health of the ocean by reducing plastic waste. The former’s central case, bezel, caseback and movement mount are manufactured from 95% recycled steel, while its side case and caseback ring meld 60% Nylo recycled fishing nets and 40% Carbonium upcycled carbon fibre from the aeronautics industry.

New red gold or grade 23 titanium watches bring lustre to the Blancpain 42 mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique diving line. The red gold version has undoubted aesthetic appeal, while grade 23 titanium provides a sporty look; it is also lightweight yet robust with anti-scratch and anti-corrosion qualities.

Timepieces from Harry Winston’s Ocean Collection are specifically designed to facilitate adventurous activity. Some come with cases hewed from zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy developed by the house which is ultra-lightweight and possesses anti-corrosion and anti-scratch properties. The dials of the 36mm models feature ocean-sourced mother of pearl. Water resistant to 100 metres, their Swiss-made movements display functions to track the time with the utmost precision.

The IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month comes in two versions, boasting either red or blue luminescence on the dial and hands. Water resistant to 10 bars, they feature a Ceratanium case and caseback ring, black dial, black hands and black rubber strap with Ceratanium pin buckle. Based on a special titanium alloy, this material is forged to IWC’s specifications and offers enhanced hardness and scratch resistance, making it suitably desirable for rigorous outdoor activities on the water.