Enamel Polish: Intricately crafted grand feu dials take timepieces into another dimension

Enamel timepieces represent some of the most elegant and beautiful models available in the high-end watch market. The process of constructing an enamel dial is time-consuming and expensive. It involves fusing soft glass – usually made from silica – onto a metal substrate in an oven heated to about 800°C – hence the term grand feu enamel – and delicately applying layers of enamel powder by paintbrush onto a wafer-thin metal disc.

It is a temperamental material that may emerge from the oven with imperfections. Successive coats and multiple firing cycles are required for a uniform surface – the need for five or more layers of enamel is usual. Yet, the watch dials can be just a millimetre thick, if not thinner. The craft takes years of practice and often renders each dial unique.

A fine example of a dazzling enamel watch is Vacheron Constantin’s recent addition to its Métiers d’Art collection. Tribute to Explorer Naturalists embraces, in fact, four models each released in 10-piece limited editions and designed as a tribute to the scientific discoveries of the Voyage of the Beagle in the early 1830s. The dexterity of the master engravers and enamellers comes to the fore in the aesthetics of richly decorated grand feu miniature enamel dials displaying scenes from four locations along the coast of South America, where Charles Darwin encountered previously unknown plants and animals.

Encased in a 41-mm diameter 18-carat white or pink gold case and featuring a jumping hours and minutes display, each scene took a master enameller four days of meticulous craftsmanship to compose, using fine pigments on a two-level dial. For instance, the white-gold Cap-Vert model concentrates on the Cape Verde stop (January 1832), with the upper dial displaying the HMS Beagle in the centre, viewed from the stern, while the lower dial on the right enthrals with a montage of colourful flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Breguet’s Classique Dragon 7145 celebrates the Chinese zodiac with the powerful dragon exotically embellishing a distinctive dial composed of red grand feu enamel with gold applied – a perfect combination to bring out the majesty of the auspicious creature. Utilising a Calibre 502.5 self-winding movement housed in a rose-gold case, the watch is limited to eight pieces and blessed with a power reserve of 45 hours.

Chopard often calls upon the power of the enamellist to highlight the aesthetic qualities of a watch. Take its Imperiale in 18-carat ethical white gold, which has two enamel colour tones gracing the dial. Most noticeably, a deep, luscious blue-green enamel sets the tone of this feminine watch, which is encircled by white enamel-filled arabesques formed out of a raised white-gold decorative fillet. Its elegance is enhanced by a shower of padparadscha sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, as well as gilded openwork dagger-shaped hour and minute hands. A seamless alligator strap in blue-green or pink comes with a white-gold buckle set with diamonds.

Representing a first for the minimalist Louis Erard Le Régulateur model, an edition just off the blocks has a dial made with grand feu enamel. Unlike a traditional dial, an enamel dial comes without the risk of fading and the unalterable hue here is a slightly speckled ivory colour. It is the handiwork of the Donzé Cadrans workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The hours counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock come in two-colour enamel detail, fused together by the final firing. Crafted in polished stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is limited to 99 pieces, underscoring the exclusivity of enamel-dial watches.

Dedicated to métiers d’art, Geneva-based Taos has a range of one-of-a-kind watches that employ the luxuriousness of enamel. The Euphorie is dressed in a grand feu paillonné enamel dial, achieved through a multiple overlay of gold and silver paillons and enamel emanating from multiple firings. Its bold colour code comprises red, orange and black. The self-winding VOP318 calibre movement was developed exclusively by Swiss manufacturer Télôs for the independent watchmaker. The pretty Floréal model has a silver, blue and pink dial with a miniature flower painting etched out of mother-of-pearl placed on paillonné enamel. Delightful petals are formed out of cloisonné enamel.

The pink-gold Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ timepiece was released by Jaeger-Lecoultre in homage to the ancient crafts of enamelling and engraving. Both the dial and case back are composed of grand feu enamel in such a pure black hue that they required five or six layers of enamel to ensure the depth of colour is retained. This was a lengthy process as each new layer necessitated another round of firing and cooling – meaning the process took many days, eventually culminating in a half-day of polishing. Other notable features include the dragon etched out of pink gold and set among golden clouds on the reverse side of the case and the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually wound Calibre 822 movement.

Limited to 50 pieces, Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar entered its second 12-year cycle this year with a new addition utilising full-fired grand feu enamel for its dial. Marking a first for this unique grand complication series that boasts both a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase, it pairs red gold with a green enamel dial for a striking colour code. The patented under-lug correctors that facilitate finger-tip changes of the calendar are also worthy of remark. Another nifty mechanism protects from damage if settings are adjusted during automatic changes.

Cartier’s latest Crocodile Jewellery watches utilise the aesthetics and magical beauty of enamel to full effect. Graded enamel is used to recreate a sculptural creature in the guise of a crocodile which coils menacingly around the case and dial. The crocodile’s bright emerald eye, its scaly skin and slick curves crafted from enamel portray depth and realism and harmonise with the hues emanating from diamonds and gemstones adorning the timepiece. Besides a crocodile and a crocodile-cum-zebra, there are numerous other iterations of these bewitching, bejewelled animal watches that cannot fail to capture the imagination.

Seiko’s Presage SPB403J1 model in the Craftmanship Series features an enamel dial as part of its attributes, wedged in a 40.2-mm case made of stainless steel with super-hard coating. Its dual-curved sapphire crystal glass is daubed with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. Powered by a 6R55 automatic manually wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, it is water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and has a see-through case back.

Geneva Invention: Showcasing the new crop of imaginative timepieces to watch and wonder

Watches and Wonders is the year’s standout event in the world of horology, a time when many watchmakers release new offerings to an eager public fascinated by the elegance, beauty and mechanical sophistication on display. The Geneva gathering also serves to reinforce the signature statements of the top manufactures.

Take Cartier, which pulled out all the stops to supplement existing collections with intriguing tweaks and exciting alternatives. A highlight was the exotic appeal of a different creature joining its menagerie of Animal Jewellery watches. The new timepiece is a breathtaking convergence of the aesthetic beauty of a zebra and a crocodile. This mythical multi-striped creature – a figment of the imagination – wraps itself around a lozenge-shaped dial of diamond pavé or black lacquer. The coiled design of the case, crafted from white, yellow or rose gold, is variously studded with green tsavorite garnets, rubies or black spinel, and each stripe is meticulously lacquered by hand.

The eighth iteration of the prestigious Cartier Privé line is a reworking of the Tortue watch, first introduced in 1912. Three hour-and-minute versions have a slimmer profile and are noticeably lighter than the original model while retaining significant design details including apple-shaped hands and a rail track following the curves of the iconic tortoise-shaped case. Collectors will surely crave the Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, available in platinum with a silvered opaline dial or yellow gold with a grained gold-finish dial. The monopusher chronograph graced the Tortue in 1928 and again in 1998, with the new version retaining many of the features of the reinterpreted model, such as the hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangle motifs at the corners of the dial, though subtle changes enhance the harmony of a cabochon-ruby crown set in precious metal. The movement is just 4.3 mm thick, and rhodium-plated Roman numerals, and the azure effect of the two chronograph counters distinguishes the dial.

New and innovative Santos timepieces were also introduced, in particular a Dual-Time model and the Santos-Dumont Rewind that can tell the time backwards via an inverted set of Roman numeral indices appearing counter-clockwise around the dial.

Rolex presented two new 18-carat-gold versions of its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller watch for sophisticated jetsetters, both fitted with the supple five-piece-link Jubilee bracelet in precious metal for the first time. One model has an Everose-gold band distinguished by a slate dial with a sunray finish, while the yellow-gold bracelet of the other contrasts with an intense white satin-finish dial. Both have hands featuring highly legible Chromalight, which emits long-lasting luminescence and a blue glow. The brand has also made subtle updates to its GMT-Master II model.

Following three years of development, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted new Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (38 mm) and Lady Jour Nuit (33 mm) models at Watches and Wonders. In a simply beguiling effect worthy of the Poetic Complications collection to which these timepieces belong, their dials display a diamond-paved moon in continuous pursuit of the sun across a sky studded with stars. They are cased in white gold and diamonds, offer a self-interchangeable alligator-leather strap, and are powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that rotates a disk once every 24 hours. Aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl, white gold, yellow gold and diamonds dress the dial, with the larger watch encrusting its sun with yellow sapphires.

In another enchanting creation, two plique-à-jour enamel butterflies flutter among swaying flowers caught by a summer breeze on the face of the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch. The extraordinary dial of the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée watch depicts flowers used as a bed by a fairy after they are picked in the day (Jour Enchanté) version.

Patek Philippe unveiled a total of 11 new iterations, most notably a full production model of the innovative watch that was released as a limited edition last year with a world-first feature – a date display synchronised with local time. Utilising the patented differential system of its self-winding calibre 240 HU C movement, the World Time Ref 5330G-001 has a dial of blue-grey opaline with the date shown on its periphery.

When Ulysse Nardin first released the Freak, it was considered revolutionary for eschewing the traditional watch dial, hands and crown in favour of an orbital flying one-hour carousel and a balance wheel, hairspring and escapement made of silicon. For the Freak S Nomad, the hour disc that sits behind the ‘spaceship’ movement features a sand-dune-like diamond guilloché pattern with CVD (chemical vapour disposition) coating.

Of particular note among a slew of watches introduced by Grand Seiko during Watches and Wonders is the Sport Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275. Released in homage to the 9R Spring Drive movement and limited to 700 pieces, its startling feature is a radiant colour-changing dial. Taking inspiration from the glowing colours emanating from the peaks of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range half an hour before and after sunrise, the watch face seems to strike a different hue depending on the viewing angle – a feat achieved by the brand’s patented ‘Optical Multilayer Coating’ system.

Another watch whose dial nods to nature’s beauty is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, fully crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold. The Bernina Grey colour of the brass dial, achieved by galvanic treatment, is inspired by the gorgeous hues and natural splendours of the Alpine rocks, while its sunburst stamping reminds of the iris of the noble bird of prey. The chronometer-certified movement with flyback function boasts three separate patents.

Roger Dubuis premiered four watches at Watches and Wonders including the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, which comes in a blaze of powerful colours befitting its name. The brand’s signature flying tourbillons are contained within a 45 mm pink-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback, while the pink gold bezel is set with 72 stones comprising red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. A further nine glistening stones in hues inspired by the sunrise embellish the dial of this watch, which is limited to just eight pieces.

Panerai also unloaded numerous new timepieces during the goings-on at Geneva. The 44 mm Submersible Quaranta Quattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech, blessed with a blue sun-brushed or white matte-grained dial, is forged from the innovative Ti-Ceramitech material created at the watchmaker’s Neuchâtel lab. This titanium ceramisation process delivers a supremely tough and hardy timepiece that is nonetheless 44% lighter than steel.

Time & Tide: Models for aqua men and women to sail accurately into the sunset

Sailing is one of the most intense outdoor pursuits and watches designed to cope with the rigours of the highly competitive sport need, at the very least, to be hardwearing and waterproof. Better still, they should possess ultimate accuracy, countdown timers for the start of each race, and tools to indicate tide level. An essential compass, a barometer showing air-pressure variation and multiple time zones are also worthy attributes.

Rolex’s association with the world of sailing stretches back to the 1950s, and its Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master series is considered essential regatta gear by many. The timepieces have a range of features tailored to the demands of sporting life on the ocean wave. For instance, the bidirectional 60-minute graduated bezel, hewed from either gold or platinum or fitted with Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic, is marked by polished graduations and numerals which are raised to enable the wearer to read time intervals, for instance between two buoys, accurately.

The sailing watches come with either a paramagnetic escape wheel (calibre 2236) or a Chronergy escapement (calibre 3235) movement. The latter has strong anti-magnetic properties and is known for its high energy efficiency. Crucially for sailing, its Parachrom hairspring made of a paramagnetic alloy not only strengthens resistance to shocks but also enhances stability under variable temperature conditions. This stability is ably supported by high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.

The dials feature large hour markers and broad hands filled with luminescent material that boosts legibility under all sailing conditions by emitting a glow lasting longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. The scratchproof sapphire crystal features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for the ultimate in visual enhancement. Bracelets are equipped with patented Oysterlock safety clasps to prevent accidental opening, which could be critical in a racing environment.

Omega’s 45.5 mm Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph watch pays homage to the turquoise colours of Emirates Team New Zealand, which will compete at the America’s Cup in Barcelona in August. Contrasting the deep black that dresses the rest of this large model, the aqua hue appears on the indicator hand, subdial ring, minute track, number 12 and seconds, brushed black ceramic pushers, helium escape valve and Omega logo on the crown. A countdown indicator with a flagged start appears at 3 o’clock.

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of gravity seen in standard vertically held timepieces of the era. The excellence of his chronometers at sea was lauded by the French navy. Joining Breguet’s seafaring line, the Marine Tourbillon 5577 pays tribute to the early invention of the manufacture with an ultra-thin tourbillon positioned at 5 o’clock and rotating in 60 seconds – the traditional concept that acts to cancel out gravitational errors. Water resistant to 100 metres and constructed of materials that provide resistance to corrosion and wear, plus gravitational fields, the self-winding movement with peripheral oscillating weight is visible through a sapphire caseback.

The spirit of exploration and designing watches that can withstand the most challenging and inhospitable of environments lies behind the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Collection. The latest addition to the line – Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Exploration – features a sfumato iced-blue glacier-patterned dial created using a special layered technique called gratté boisé that involves more than 30 steps. Here it creates the impression of staring at the oxygen-free blue-toned Antarctic ice. In a reaction to this harsh environment for which the watch was designed, the titanium case is devoid of oxygen internally, preventing oxidisation and fogging. The components are thus rendered far more durable to foster long-lasting precision.

Another interesting attribute is a complication of turning Northern and Southern hemisphere globes at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock with a 24-hour scale and day and night indication, meaning it is possible to see the time anywhere across the globe quickly and easily.

Chopard’s Happy Ocean is a chic water-sports model with a steel and 18-carat rose gold case. Aided by a rose gold screw-down crown, it offers water resistance all the way down to 300 metres, where visibility is assisted by applied gilded hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova. As expected of this watch line, its galvanic-treated wave-pattered blue dial features five dancing diamonds.

Ulysse Nardin has had a long association with marine chronometers and continues to craft timepieces suitable for the ardours of the ocean. Two recent additions, Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure, offer increased durability and increased usage of recycled materials to nurture the health of the ocean by reducing plastic waste. The former’s central case, bezel, caseback and movement mount are manufactured from 95% recycled steel, while its side case and caseback ring meld 60% Nylo recycled fishing nets and 40% Carbonium upcycled carbon fibre from the aeronautics industry.

New red gold or grade 23 titanium watches bring lustre to the Blancpain 42 mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique diving line. The red gold version has undoubted aesthetic appeal, while grade 23 titanium provides a sporty look; it is also lightweight yet robust with anti-scratch and anti-corrosion qualities.

Timepieces from Harry Winston’s Ocean Collection are specifically designed to facilitate adventurous activity. Some come with cases hewed from zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy developed by the house which is ultra-lightweight and possesses anti-corrosion and anti-scratch properties. The dials of the 36mm models feature ocean-sourced mother of pearl. Water resistant to 100 metres, their Swiss-made movements display functions to track the time with the utmost precision.

The IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month comes in two versions, boasting either red or blue luminescence on the dial and hands. Water resistant to 10 bars, they feature a Ceratanium case and caseback ring, black dial, black hands and black rubber strap with Ceratanium pin buckle. Based on a special titanium alloy, this material is forged to IWC’s specifications and offers enhanced hardness and scratch resistance, making it suitably desirable for rigorous outdoor activities on the water.

Green Hands: Applauding watches embodying the power of jade – and other viridescent beauties

Jade green watches have a treasured quality attached to their aesthetic beauty. The ornamental mineral has long been prized for its translucence and durability; in Chinese culture, jade is thought to convey nobility, longevity and protective power. Here we pay homage to outstanding watches inspired by jade or rendered in other stunning shades of green.

H. Moser & Cie certainly understands the value-enhancing elegance and subtlety of jade stone and its striking colour. The dial of the recently released Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade model is made of 100% natural Wyoming jade that is untreated from its original source and exudes a subtle purity. Its appeal is enhanced by the fact that the Swiss watchmaker chose a jade with a concentrated olive tone.

Furthermore, the simplicity of the uncluttered dial highlights the fantastic hue of the natural stone. Hour and minute hands come with luminescent inserts, and only three red gold-faceted indices dot the dial of a timepiece devoid of any logo. Its bare, green good looks also serve to magnify the technical excellence of the one- minute flying tourbillon with skeletonised bridges visible at six o’clock. This Streamliner Tourbillon is limited to just 100 pieces, with each translucent jade dial hewn from semi-precious natural stone and precision cut using CNC (computer numerical control) technology.

Giving each model subtle differences in shading and marking, the process also meticulously preserves the structure of the jade; each slab is pared down into slices 1 to 1.2 mm thick, then hand polished to project the splendid natural colour.

The watch is equipped with the manufacture’s HMC 804 automatic movement, which boasts an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, a three- day minimum power reserve and double hairsprings that alleviate the effect of gravity and reduce friction. Dressed in red gold, the 40mm-diameter case is topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal and the integrated bracelet has a three-blade folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.

Cartier’s limited-edition Santos-Dumont XL model is embellished with jade Roman numerals. A beaded crown set with a jade cabochon adds to the allure of a watch backed by a calibre 430 MC mechanical movement.

It also features a rose gold case, guilloché-effect dial, and rose gold-finished steel apple-shaped hands. A green alligator-skin strap adorned with a traditional ardillon buckle of rose gold complements the jade green touches on the Roman numerals. For those measuring, XL here means 46.6 mm from lug to lug and 33.9 mm wide.

One version of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex comes with a dazzling dial cut from green aventurine – a stone thought to promote a sense of well-being. A bezel studded with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds encircles the arresting dial, whose hour markers are also diamond-set.

The calibre 3255 movement facilitates the display of the day, date, hours, minutes and seconds concurrently. As is standard with all Day-Date models since their launch in 1956, this timepiece has a three-piece link design President bracelet crafted from a precious metal, in this case 18-carat Everose gold.

A 41-mm 18-carat pink gold bezel circling a black ceramic case is the perfect counterpoint for the deep- green enamelled aventurine dial of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. This mesmerising effect is heightened by components that are hand-finished through satin brushing and polishing. Similarly, pink gold hour markers and hands beautifully complement the smoky green of the dial.

In the same vein, the dial’s compelling colour serves to highlight the flying tourbillon cage at six o’clock. Illusions of depth and light are created by a manufacturing process repeated multiple times, in which layers of glass sand are mixed with water, laid onto crushed aventurine glass, and then heated to more than 800oC in a dedicated oven. Resting above the dial, a glare-proof double-curved sapphire crystal accentuates this beautiful play of light.

Hublot produced only 100 Big Bang Unico Green Saxem watches, a robust 42 mm model that catches the eye. Case, caseback and bezel are all crafted from the brand’s fetching green Saxem alloy, a mix of sapphire aluminium oxide and rare-earth mineral.

The dial, made of black transparent composite material, is brightened by luminescence on its hands and indices in the same shade of green. The colour coding is amplified by a transparent green rubber strap, which comes with a titanium buckle clasp. Equipped with the in-house HUB 1280 movement, this self-winding flyback column-wheel chronograph has a power reserve of about 72 hours.

A beautiful dark-green dial is the distinguishing visual hallmark of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva, a bold 18-carat lime gold model limited to just 28 pieces and based on the historic calibre from 1923. In an intriguing technical innovation, the satinated and polished gold unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph.

The dial sports beige luminescent green-coated hour and minute hands, a green-coated seconds hand, a gold-coated chronograph minute hand with a green tip, and a green chronograph seconds hand. The colour story is further augmented by an interchangeable green alligator- leather strap with a lime gold pin buckle.

Two of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle hand-wound watches are an envious dark green, each showcasing a beautiful sunburst-decorated dial encased in 18-carat pink gold. The smaller version (33mm) is a sparkling standout, having a bezel populated by 54 brilliant round diamonds.

The caseback is transparent crystal, the dial has gold applied hour markers and hands, and the matching dark-green Mississippiensis alligator-leather strap with calfskin lining is fastened by a pink gold pin buckle.

In charming contrast to the white engraved dial, the distinctive green alligator leather of its bangle strap adds to the appeal of the ultra-feminine Joséphine Aigrette oval-faced timepiece from Chaumet. The Maison’s emblematic V-shaped aigrette is rendered in rose gold and brilliant-cut diamonds on this gem of a watch.

To celebrate the colour that symbolises prosperity, renewal and progress, the new dial of Vulcain’s Chronograph 1970s comes in a hue that evokes the iconic British racing green. The eye- catching design of the sunburst dial with its white or black indexes contrasts well with the leather or crocodile-pattern strap.

Out of Pocket: Contemporary watches on a chain – or car dashboard – to wear or display with pride

The history of modern watchmaking began with the classic pocket watch so beloved by people of a certain standing in society and releasing them from the constraints of the public clock tower. These timepieces undoubtedly held a particular charm and are now much sought after by collectors. Many top manufactures continue to roll out fine pocket watches for their growing legion of admirers.

Cartier, which first turned its hand to such watches in 1853, now produces the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch. Set in a frame hewed from rock crystal with traces of black obsidian and white gold, it is powered by a 9506 automatic movement comprising 578 parts including 44 rubies in a skeletonised style that allows admirers to view its mechanical sophistication – minute repeater, flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar – and elegant aesthetics.

Coming in two versions, the white-gold model has a beaded crown set with a cabochon-cut sapphire, a colour picked up by blued-steel apple-shaped hands, while the other iteration dazzles with 263 baguette-cut diamonds on its case, 111 baguette- cut diamonds on its dial, and a diamond on the crown for a grand total of 27 carats.

Among IWC’s contemporary pocket watches is a precious homage to its original Pallweber pocket watch released in 1885. The limited-edition Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” timepiece evokes the original pocket watch but comes with large digital hours and minutes displayed in windows.

The instrument, which is attached to an 18-carat red-gold chain, boasts a red-gold case and a white lacquered dial with black-printed white display discs and blued seconds hands. Its convex glass sapphire has an antireflective coating on both sides. Even when the pocket watch is closed, the time can be read thanks to two windows in the spring cover.

Blancpain’s standout pocket watch is the ultra-slim Montre De Poche Demi-Savonnette, a Métiers d’Art creation available in three variants. Classically elegant, its white grand-feu enamel dial is ensconced within a 9 mm-thick red-gold case that measures 44.5 mm in diameter. Resplendent through the sapphire caseback, the 151B manual movement – which is only 2.2 mm thick – has 40 hours of power reserve.

A one-of-a-kind piece of high jewellery and haute horlogerie, The Ultimate Quadri Tourbillon pocket watch by Harry Winston has four independent tourbillons on its dial that rotate counterclockwise in 36 seconds. It is adorned with an 18-carat white-gold chain and 254 baguette- cut diamonds on a matching case, while its calibre HW4703 movement is also blessed with 95 jewels.

In fact, the total gem-setting for this collector’s item amounts to 272 baguette-cut diamonds of about 27 carats as well as an emerald-cut diamond and a brilliant-cut ruby.

Among 12 pocket watches displayed last year as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection at Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon was the “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001, adorned with wood marquetry, hand engraving and champlevé enamel. The image of a leopard emerges from the darkness on its caseback – a wonderful artistic creation derived from different species of wood with varying colours, textures and veining.

The spectacle is complemented by a pattern of tropical foliage inset with black enamel hand-engraved on the border of the caseback, the bezel on the dial side and the bow. The black-tinted tulipwood dial stands in beautiful contrast to a crown embellished with a yellow sapphire.

In homage to its 1932 pocket chronograph, Omega produced three editions (100 pieces each) of the Olympic Pocket Watch 1932 Rattrapante Chronograph utilising unassembled chronograph movement kits that had been in storage for 80 years.

These timepieces come in 18-carat yellow, white and red gold to mimic the colours of the Games’ gold, silver and bronze medals. The original 1932 pocket chronograph was used as a stopwatch in the Los Angeles Olympics that year.

A particularly novel reinterpretation of yesteryear’s timepiece is the Hublot MP-03 Pocket Watch, which takes the traditional hanging pendant- type format but morphs the case into the shape of a bullet. Time is told by a horizontal tourbillon with three rotating wheels visible through the case aperture. The watch can be worn as a necklace or attached to a bag, belt and wrist strap.

Vacheron Constantin has created a bespoke timepiece at the behest of a client who adores fine watches and luxury cars. While boasting aesthetic similarities to a pocket watch, Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon fits into the fascia of a motorcar – the Rolls- Royce Amethyst Droptail to be exact.

Its mechanical self-winding movement has a bi-retrograde display with the instantaneous return of the hours and minutes, reminiscent of the sweep hands on traditional speedometers. These hands are made of titanium, while the case is stainless steel, the main plate brass rhodium opaline, and the dial sapphire crystal.

Panerai’s Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica 59mm was released in a special limited edition of 50 pieces and retains the brand’s water- resistance tradition, plunging securely to a depth of 30 metres. Its chain, likewise, has a nautical appearance. A sapphire case reveals the skeletonised P.2005/S calibre with a six-day power reserve, a version of Panerai’s first in-house tourbillon movement launched in 2007. Interestingly, 12 rods link the case to the movement, giving the impression the latter is suspended in the centre of the device.

Special supports can transform the pocket watch into a table clock once the attached chain is removed – which is detached with ease simply by pressing a small button. The single links of the chain itself are linked by universal joints which guarantee greater resistance and at the same time provide maximum flexibility. The chain is attached to the case by a skeleton device shaped like the characteristic bridge that protects the winding crown of other Panerai timepieces.

Dragon Layers: The fantastic beasts of the Chinese zodiac breathe new life into watch design

February 2024 heralds the Year of the Dragon, the magical animal with a massive presence in Chinese mythology and culture that projects power and commands reverence. Many fine watchmakers have released timepieces paying homage to the Dragon, a popular symbol of nobility, prosperity and wisdom, as well as good luck.

Arnold & Son, a manufacture with roots dating back to 1764, marks this auspicious new phase of the traditional Chinese calendar with the limited-edition Luna Magna Red Gold ‘Year of the Dragon’, which comes in two versions. A quite spectacular feature is the intricately hand-engraved dragon in 18-carat red gold which adorns either a large pietersite (blue with veining) or onyx (smooth and black) dial. All the elements of the dragon as it wraps around the dial – scales, claws, whiskers and horns – point to the three- dimensional globe showing the phases of the moon that distinguishes the Luna Magna collection. The white opal hour dial is enhanced with additional Super- LumiNova, while an indicator of the moon’s age is displayed on the case back.

Another high-end watchmaker celebrating the Year of the Dragon is Corum, which releases two versions of the Bubble 47mm model. One depicts a dragon hovering above the dial between clouds, while the other looks deep into the dragon’s eye – with the 8mm-thick sapphire dial acting as a magnifying glass for both versions to surreal effect. The eerie appeal of the fantastical dragon eye on the Bubble 47 Dragon Eye is amplified by meticulous hand-crafting of the exquisite details. Both models are limited to 88 editions, have stainless-steel cases with black PVD treatments, and are equipped with the CO 082 automatic movement that possesses a power reserve of 42 hours.

Harry Winston presents a glittering take on the divine symbol of power that is the dragon. The slim 18-carat-gold case of the Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm sees 118 brilliant-cut diamonds set in two rings framing a dial embossed with an imposing figure of an imperial red dragon – considered a colour of luck, joy and passion. The stones then slope via two rose-gold bands towards a gold crown positioned unconventionally at noon and distinguished by a white pearl. The dial itself is blessed with 39 brilliant-cut diamonds, where they form an inner circle beside the red lacquer dragon, which swirls within clouds of white mother-of-pearl. A pearl in the mouth of the dragon symbolises wisdom or, perhaps in this case, the perpetual cycle of life. A further 17 diamonds dress the rose gold buckle that fastens the red alligator leather strap.

A different shade of red is used to enhance the Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon by IWC Schaffhausen, issued in a limited production of 1,000 pieces. Burgundy decorates a dial set with gold-plated hands and appliques, and colours one of two strap alternatives – burgundy rubber or black calfskin – that offer different looks for the wearer. The mythical beast in question appears at the back of this stainless- steel watch. The IWC-manufactured calibre 69355 movement can be observed through the sapphire caseback and its gold-plated rotor amazingly takes the visual form of an intricate dragon.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ uses the back of the signature swivelling case of the Reverso range – first launched in 1931 – for the depiction of a dragon in the midst of clouds tinged with a golden hue. Some 80 hours of painstaking work by a master engraver with 10 types of chisels went into creating the beautiful creature. Set against a background of glossy black grand feu enamel, the pink gold dragon appears to take on a 3-D effect, seemingly ready to leap off the caseback. Opaque black grand feu enamel graces the dial on the front of this elegant reversible timepiece, meaning the two surfaces appear in harmony.

Vacheron Constantin has been paying homage to the Chinese annual animals since 2012, and as the 12-year cycle comes full circle with the Year of the Dragon, the maison has brought out two 25-piece Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions. Powered by the calibre 2460 G4 offering about 40 hours of power reserve, the watch is crafted from either platinum or 18-carat pink gold and has a transparent sapphire crystal caseback. With enamelling and engraving skills to the fore, the dial features a hand-engraved pink-gold dragon that demonstrates the meticulous precision of the artisan, such as the fine detail of its scales and a hand-engraved pearl. Each measures 40mm in diameter and comes with a deep blue (platinum version) or brown (pink gold) grand feu enamel dial and alligator leather strap.

The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon by Roger Dubuis ushers in the Lunar New Year with what appears to be a 3-D dragon. The visual interpretation is certainly in the eyes of the wearer, given the abstract design and freedom of expression bestowed by a creature crafted from 27 separate pieces of brass. The dragon boldly stands out via pink-gold polished surfaces surrounded by black lacquer. Enriching the surrealism and powerful symbolism of this watch is the image of another dragon that appears to flow within the sapphire crystal of the caseback. Here, the lower flying tourbillon of the Monotourbillon Calibre RD512SQ skeletonised movement uses materials far lighter than stainless steel, and its mechanical excellence only enhances its aesthetic appeal.

Chopard marks the arrival of the auspicious animal with the release of the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon, featuring a dial hand-crafted in Japan by an artisan skilled in the urushi lacquer technique. Each dial took at least 20 hours to refine using this painstaking ancestral process. Encased in a combination of 18-carat rose gold and glare-proof sapphire crystal, a spectacular red- and yellow-coloured dragon appears to float high in the clouds, elevating the timepiece to majestic heights.

The mythical hand-sculptured 5N rose gold dragon coils its way around Ulysse Nardin‘s skeletonised X structure of their Blast Tourbillon Dragon.

Light Fantastic: Dials can defy the dark with a touch of super-luminescent razzle-dazzle

Watches that glow in the dark offer the wearer reassurance they will be able to read the time even under most trying of circumstances. Many of the prestigious brands paint the hands and dial of their timepieces with a special pigment that gleams by absorbing and then reemitting light. Unfortunately, the first so-called lume watches derived their luminescence from radium, a radioactive material, and were discontinued, but the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution now used to coat key parts of the watch face is considered completely safe.

Rolex has long enjoyed a reputation for producing watches with that extra special glow. Indeed, some of their early pocket watches made for the military were painted with luminous material. Today’s collections use Super-LumiNova, which first came to light in 1933, or the brand’s proprietary Chromalight technology, which debuted in 2008, for luminescence.

The Chromalight display of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, for instance, is designed to offer excellent legibility in all circumstances. The blue glow emitted in dark conditions lasts for about eight hours, while in daylight a distinctive bright white hue emanates from the watch. The new Explorer, a collection made famous by Himalayan expeditions, is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel.

Luminescence is a critical attribute for divers’ watches in murky underwater conditions. The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge sports an array of features to combat such an environment, including patented case architecture with a sealed Triplock crown set to withstand extreme pressure and Chromalight display with superb luminescence to enhance underwater legibility.

The need for outstanding visibility has also played an important role in the design of Bell & Ross watches. The Lum collection, launched in 2017, is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation where readability and luminosity are key. Dials, numerals, indices and hands are highly legible day and night due to their Super-LumiNova coating.

In recent years, models have emitted a range of colours, from the intense green glow of the BR 03-92 Grey Lum to others exhibiting a pale yellow luminescence. The most recent iteration, the BR-X5 Green Lum, is crafted from titanium and an innovative photo-luminescent composite material, LM3D. So, unlike in previous iterations, it is the 41mm case that glows fully in the dark, serving to magnify the dial – replete with luminous hour and minute markers, hands, date and power-reserve indicators – and give the watch a surreal look.

Launched in 2010, the youthful, avant-garde brand of Ressence takes a minimalistic approach to watch design. Its latest release, the Type 1° M, features engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova on a convex German silver dial. The glow effect is enhanced by a greater range of colour codes than previously seen (M stands for Multicolour), with green, blue, yellow and red appearing on the hour, minute, second and weekday discs respectively in a beautiful contrast with the light grey dial. Its unique Ressence Orbital Convex System module is driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre. Notably, there is no crown – time-setting and winding are accomplished via a retractable lever on the caseback.

Breitling has recently updated its Avenger range, and the new B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission, powered by the Breitling calibre 01, has Super-LumiNova-coated indices, numerals and hands on a carbon fibre dial of all-black, or yellow with chronograph counters in black. The numerals are particularly legible. A ceramic bezel and case, with a titanium caseback, crown and pushers, round off a super-strong design.

Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition pays tribute to the America’s Cup and defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The visually striking timepiece combines the turquoise hue of the team logo with the deepest black, while the distinctive green glow emitted in the dark by the white Super-LumiNova adds to the feast of colours. Its power comes from Omega’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in Summer Blue, meanwhile, joins a line in homage to a world-record dive of 2019. When UV light is directed at the lacquered dial, the words “Omega was here” are revealed.

One of the hallmarks of a Roger Dubuis timepiece is its superb luminescence, exemplified by the kaleidoscope of colours emanating from the synthetically grown spinels – graded from red to blue, and coated with Super-LumiNova – on the dial of the eye-catching Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. This dazzling combination of colour and light bounces off the 42mm Eon gold case and bezel set with curved synthetic sapphires.

Capturing the free-spirited movement of the sea and the creatures who dwell within it, Seiko has added a “Whale” model to its Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive Limited Edition collection. The automatic diver’s watch features a bright white dial and bracelet and contrasting black hands and case. The bezel, hands and indices are coated with LumiBrite for practical and aesthetic reasons.

A skeletonised chronograph has joined the TAG Heuer Monaco range. It comes in a choice of three different colours powered by the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The distinctive skeleton dial, a first for the line, is housed in a tough grade 2 titanium case. In another innovation for the model, the date window (along with the indices and hands of the watch) are embossed with Super- LumiNova, ensuring brilliant legibility even in low light.

Chopard’s new ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ features oversized 6 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals which are enhanced with black SuperLuminova© – thereby meeting motorsports’ inherent legibility requirements.

Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones

For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.

The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.

Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.

For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.

The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.

Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.

Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.

The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.

Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.

Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.

Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.

Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.

Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.

Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.

Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.

By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.

Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.

Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.

Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser & Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.

Also Read: Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

For many avid collectors, there is a timeless charm about watches with the look and feel of classics. Couple that with a desire for the increased sophistication of modern technology and you have the underlying demand worldwide for vintage-inspired timepieces.

Some watchmakers tap into this combined love for the old and the new by reissuing cherished models with technical tweaks that add finesse and superior performance. Take Vacheron Constantin’s reissue of the famous 222, which itself was launched in 1977 to celebrate the 222nd anniversary of the manufacture. This contemporary reinterpretation nevertheless maintains the cultural heritage of the original model which heralded entry into the ‘sporty- chic’ watch category.

The Historiques 222 ‘Jumbo’ re-edition keeps the 1977’s monobloc tonneau-shaped countenance and 37mm diameter but comes with minor changes. Certain modifications have better readability and increased comfort in mind, such as offsetting the date window from the outer rim of the dial, or the Super-LumiNova coating of the hands and hour-markers, while the 18-carat yellow gold vertical satin-finished bracelet promises enhanced ergonomics. With a caseback designed to reveal its operation, Vacheron Constantin’s own Calibre 2455/2 movement was specially developed for this Historiques revival and delivers superior precision; the calibre’s oscillating weight has been etched with the original 222 logo.

Cartier’s famous Tank was launched over a century ago and the Maison has various collections that pay homage to a watch that dispensed with the traditional round-shaped dial. In 1921, the Tank Cintrée stunned the watch-buying public with slender, slightly curved rectangular lines that hug the wrist. Cartier has released several so-called Rééditions of past watches that mimic the original format as much as possible.

A centenary edition of the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold was released in 2021, and now Cartier is returning with another re-edition of the elegant original in platinum. Refinements are numerous; amongst others, a 6.03mm-thick case and brancards with finishes that are polished on the verticals and matte on the horizontals. The watch retains its faith in the Cartier heritage, sporting a movement with manual winding, rail tracks, Roman numerals, an eggshell dial and apple-shaped blued hands.

Breitling is another watchmaker that has released vintage-inspired models that hark back to earlier timepieces. This year sees new iterations of the 1953 Ref. 765 AVI, an aviator’s watch that famously came with a rotating 12-hour bezel for recording flight times. The original AVI incited a 46mm timepiece – the Super AVI – released in 2021, and now the beloved predecessor spawns another complicated imitation, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42.

Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang

The new watches retain the distinctive colour schemes and design codes of the original that nod to classic aircraft in aviation history. The Classic AVI Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang in 18-carat red gold is the standout.

The mysteries behind the wandering hours mechanism inspired Audemars Piguet to introduce the Starwheel watch in 1991. With interesting historical roots, the unusual timekeeping system stems from a request in the 17th century from the insomnia-suffering Pope Alexander VII for a silent, easy-to-read night clock. The solution presented to the pontiff involved a device lit from the inside where the quarter-hour marks appeared in a semi-circle in an aperture. Progressively, the silent wandering hours system developed in pocket watches with the minutes being graduated for greater precision. The mechanism remained hidden and its popularity waned. Upon being rediscovered by Audemars Piguet in 1989, intense development saw the wandering hours complication return from 1991 to 2003 in a watch that revealed its magnificent mechanism on the dial – named the ‘star wheels’.

A revived Starwheel reference in splendid black ceramic and 18-carat white gold joined the bold Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection late last year, utilising the next-generation self-winding Calibre 4310. An ultra-contemporary tribute to traditional watchmaking, and equipped just with a seconds hand, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel indicates the time using three discs that point to a 120-degree scale graduated with 60 minutes.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5261R- 001 Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar

The recent release of the Ref. 5261R-001 Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar by Patek Philippe adds another dimension to the Aquanaut Luce collection and hints at the past by featuring the manufacture’s patented Annual Calendar mechanism from 1996. Rooting back to the 1990s Aquanaut, this most recent addition to a line styled for women’s wrists is powered by the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S QA LU. The inversion of the annual calendar creates an unusual display: date at 6 o’clock, moon phases at 12 o’clock, both in apertures, while day is displayed at 3 o’clock and month at 9 o’clock in subdials. Among other Patek Philippe watches rocking a retro vibe, the Ref. 5172G Chronograph Salmon Dial oozes vintage charm with its opaline rose-gilded dial and gold hours/minutes hands.

Taking inspiration from one of the first Rolex watches to be fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the newly released Perpetual 1908 is another timepiece paying homage to traditional watchmaking. Its 9.5mm-thick case, crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, houses a Calibre 7140 mechanical movement offering bidirectional self-winding via a perpetual rotor.

The release of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel brings with it a connection the watchmaker’s past and its moon- landing legacy. The recreation of the Calibre 321 movement has the specifications of the original.