Slim Pickings : Dimensions, mechanics and aesthetics find time for empowerment in the women’s watch world

Women’s horology is no longer a niche; it’s a movement. The industry is finally embracing the diversity, elegance and complexity of watch wearers with slimmer wrists. From mechanical marvels to artistic expressions, women’s timepieces are commanding attention with clever design, technical innovation and cultural relevance.

It’s a rapidly expanding market as more women become collectors, attend watch fairs, join forums and invest in timepieces. Online marketplace Chrono24 reports increased female engagement and purchases in the luxury segment, and social media communities for women are fostering dialogue and discovery. This cultural shift is reshaping watchmaking, encouraging brands to cater to women not just as consumers, but as connoisseurs.

Mechanical Mastery

Gone are the days when women’s watches were simply downsized versions of men’s models. Today, brands are investing in mechanical movements tailored for women, offering complications like moon phases, tourbillons and perpetual calendars in smaller, attractive proportions. Such timepieces reveal that women’s horology is more about innovation than decoration.

A case in point is Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, released in 2020 as the smallest tourbillon movement ever made. The BVL150 manual-winding calibre is only 3.65mm thick and was specifically designed to fit inside the brand’s unique drop-shaped, serpent-inspired case.

In another watch celebrating technical excellence while honouring feminine aesthetics, Chopard’s L.U.C Flying T Twin features a self-winding flying tourbillon in a 35mm case, proving haute horology can be both compact and powerful. The mechanical beauty of the movement’s two superimposed barrels, its high-precision adjustments and a stop-second function are gleaned through the open caseback and an aperture at six o’clock on the textured mother-of-pearl dial.

Aesthetic Appeal

While gem-set timepieces have long entranced jewellery lovers as a complement to their precious adornments, jewellery watches are no longer just ornamental. In the hands of the leading watch-making maisons, they are both functional and sophisticated.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ wondrous 2022 release, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier, combines poetic complications with floral animations, blending storytelling with horology. In this diamond- and sapphire-set masterpiece of ingenuity, a special module opens and closes 12 corollas on the dial in order to tell the time, and the scenery is renewed every 60 minutes.

Pavé diamonds encircle the slim, elongated oval ‘bathtub’ case of Cartier’s Baignoire Allongée, another example of a watch whose mechanical movement oversees a melding of elegance and engineering.

Dials have become a canvas for feminine creativity. Brands are experimenting with enamel, miniature painting and mother-of-pearl to create watches that reflect personal style and emotion. Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Hummingbird, for instance, showcases plique-à-jour enamel, a rare technique that creates stained-glass-like transparency. Dior’s Grand Bal Plume Précieuses, a vision in pink and mother-of-pearl, uses feathers and rotor-mounted decoration to evoke the movement and grace of a ballgown.

Appealing to collectors who appreciate beauty and craftsmanship in equal measure, these watches are wearable art, but they also tick with precision. More than accessories, they are expressions of identity, designed to resonate with women who value artistry and storytelling.

Small is Impactful

The trend toward smaller cases continues to gain momentum. Today, a watch designed for women typically measures between 28mm and 36mm in diameter, offering comfort and diminutive good looks without sacrificing presence.

Popping up in 2023, Tudor’s Black Bay 31 is a sleek, versatile option with automatic movement and a refined silhouette. Born in 1957, the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust remains a classic, chosen by generation of women as their go-to timepiece. Measuring just 28mm and coming in appealing shades including chocolate and aubergine, it’s a perfect fit for smaller wrists while maintaining the robustness and reliability of the larger Datejust models.

Timeless Voices of Reason

Women’s horology is now being shaped by female designers, ambassadors and collaborators. Brands are partnering with artists, athletes and entrepreneurs to create watches that reflect diverse perspectives. These partnerships bring fresh energy to the industry and empower women to see themselves reflected in the watches they wear.

Playfully challenging traditional norms, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury emerges as a Palette of Shadows, inspired by the Swiss artist’s favourite makeup colours. When actor Zoë Kravitz came on board as an Omega spokesperson, she endorsed the bold styling of the Constellation 28mm in steel with a striking blush rose dial.

Eco-consciousness is also influencing women’s watch design. Luxury brands are embracing sustainable materials and ethical sourcing, responding to the values of modern consumers – and it is often women who lead the charge to transparency and responsibility.

Horological Heritage & Health

Auction houses report rising interest in vintage women’s watches, especially those with mechanical movements and unique provenance. This revival reflects a desire for authenticity and connection to the past, as well as a growing appreciation for craftsmanship and timeless design.

First launched in 1955, then revived 55 years later, the Omega De Ville Ladymatic is beloved for its heritage styling. Cartier’s small Tank Must de Cartier model, its iconic rectangular face measuring 29.5mm by 22mm, is popular among collectors for its refined looks and a legacy that harks back to the early days of wristwatches.

Turning from history to modernity, smartwatches have evolved to meet the needs of women who want functionality without sacrificing fashion. First launched by Hermès a decade ago, Apple Watch Hermès combines tech with luxury, offering exclusive straps and watch faces. Garmin’s Lily is designed for those seeking health tracking within a petite profile. These watches blend digital convenience with aesthetic appeal, proving that smart can also be stylish.

Women’s horology is a vibrant, multifaceted domain. It’s about empowerment, elegance, and expression. Whether through mechanical innovation, artistic design or ethical luxury, today’s watches for women reflect the values and aspirations of those who wear them.

Horological Heatwave: Trendsetting timepieces light up summer with striking design and technical wizardry

Every year, the watchmaking world steps boldly forward, releasing timepieces that shimmer with originality and stir the soul as much as they track the moment. When work winds down in August and you glance at your watch as you laze in the sun, it’s a time of dazzling reflection. As you take stock of your life, consider your watch collection, too, and whether you crave a new addition or three.

The standout launches so far this year speak in colour, texture and motion. They range from towering feats of craftsmanship to independent upstarts making philosophical statements. Here’s a selection of nine newcomers that you may want to call your own.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Bushido Automata

Among Louis Vuitton’s most recent automata, the Tambour Bushido commands immediate reverence. Its sapphire dial, which boasts five animations, serves as a stage for a sword-wielding samurai, who unsheathes his katana on cue in a choreography of springs and gears. This isn’t just storytelling, it’s kinetic art.

Crafted in 18-carat rose gold, the watch is powered by an LV 525 calibre movement encompassing 426 components and a 100-hour power reserve – shown as the sun rising above Mount Fuji. Time is revealed by a nudge of the exquisitely engraved push-piece at two o’clock; indeed, from the dial to the buttons, engraving by hand took a grand total of 140 hours. Rooted in Japanese tradition, infused with Parisian luxury, and engineered with uncompromising finesse, the Bushido captures a rare alchemy of cultural homage and horological spectacle.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono ‘Pink’

With the Pelagos FXD Chrono ‘Pink’, Tudor steps into uncharted chromatic territory. Crafted in celebration of the 2025 Giro d’Italia cycling race, this chronograph swells with energy. Its robust carbon composite case is paired with a shock of vibrant pink – an unexpected gesture from a brand known for tool-watch restraint. From the matte-black face and pink-edged tachymeter scale to a black fabric strap with a rosy racing stripe, the new FXD Chrono is a compelling blend of tactical credibility and expressive freedom, where strength is loud and colour is confidence.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

Cartier rewinds to 1928 with the reissue of the Tank à Guichets, reviving one of the maison’s most enigmatic designs. Its charm lies in mystery – no hands, no dial, just two subtle apertures that reveal the hour and minutes in digital flickers. Concealing a new hand-wound 9755 MC jump-hour movement and realised in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum, the brushed metal façade offers minimalism wrapped in luxury. It’s less of a Cartier Privé watch and more of a whispered complication, perfect for those who prefer their statements sealed in silence.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow

This watch doesn’t tick – it dazzles. Moser’s Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow in steel unveils its beating heart through a fully openworked cushion-shaped dial, framed by a bezel ablaze with 60 multicoloured sapphires. The contrast between the raw mechanics of the skeleton automatic HMC 814 calibre showcasing a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock and the gem-set halo elevates it beyond mere ornament. It’s a technical masterpiece dressed with uninhibited joy. Here, precision meets pleasure with theatrical flair.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rainbow

On the subject of standout sapphire rings, Zenith injects whimsy into high-frequency timekeeping with the white-gold Chronomaster Sport Rainbow. Known for its one-tenth-of-a-second El Primero calibre, this version adds a multicoloured gem-set bezel that dances with light. The watch retains its sporty silhouette, but now carries a touch of mischief – reminding us that mastery need not be monochrome. It’s charisma in chrono form, made for wrists that embrace the mood of the moment.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson

Adventure breathes through every turn of this limited-edition Montblanc. The 1858 Geosphere Mount Vinson is built without internal oxygen, a feature borrowed from extreme mountaineering to prevent fogging under pressure. The icy dial echoes glacial terrains, while the dual hemisphere layout keeps global time within arm’s reach. Celebrating legendary Italian climber – and Montblanc brand ambassador – Reinhold Messner’s 1986 Antarctica ascent, it fuses physical endurance with mechanical innovation in a timepiece both rugged and refined.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding

Audemars Piguet continues to choreograph complexity within elegance. Its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watches wear their mechanical IQ with grace, integrating leap year, moonphase, date and day into a dial of serene symmetry – an intricate feat of engineering that looks effortlessly clean. In its 150th year, the manufacture reimagines the old, gifting the iconic collection with a new-generation self-winding calibre, the 7138, whose crown can now control all the subdials. Choose from either the classic pairing of steel with a blue dial or silky, solid sand gold, and slip on the latest Royal Oak while the sun shines.

Toledano & Chan B/1.2

Following up on last year’s B/1 breakthrough, independent watchmakers Toledano & Chan re-embrace their architectural edge. For the B/1.2, a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial brings dreamlike luminosity to the sculptural steel case that echoes the duo’s love of brutalist design. There’s tension here – between raw form and refined finish, between sharp angles and fluid light. The crown is on the left; the automatic movement a Swiss-made Sellita SW100; and the partners are based in New York and Hong Kong respectively.

Breitling Top Time B31

Breitling revs up nostalgia with the Top Time B31, a tribute to the freedom enjoyed with cruising the open road. Dial accents nod to vintage dashboards, while the manufacture’s new COSC-certified chronograph movement delivers modern precision beneath classic curves. A perforated calfskin strap reminds of racing gloves. With a contemporary campaign starring actor Austin Butler, the watch reconnects swagger with speed, proving that heritage, when driven by intent, never idles.

Watches of the Moment : Sunny colours, modern aesthetics, and eco-friendly materials define summer time.

Every year, the world of horology unveils exciting new developments, blending craftsmanship, technology, and artistic expression. As warm-weather fashion takes centre stage, watches step into the spotlight, embracing vibrant hues, lightweight materials, and innovative designs. This season’s timepieces celebrate elegance, functionality, and bold creativity, making them must-have accessories for summer adventures.

From sporty chronographs to refined classics, watch brands continue to push boundaries, releasing fresh styles that seamlessly merge aesthetics with advanced engineering. Whether it’s a vibrant statement piece, a collector’s treasure, or a sustainable innovation, summer watches reflect a spirit of exploration and sophistication.

Seasonal Colours and Lightness

As temperatures rise, bright colours and airy designs define summer watch trends. Many brands adopt pastel shades, shimmering gold tones, and sky-blue accents, bringing out the playful vibrancy of the season. Sporty chronographs with lightweight construction ensure comfort for days spent outdoors, whether on land or water.

Hublot’s latest collaboration with the Argentine Football Association (AFA), established in 2022, continues to celebrate the union with a trio of watches. Among them, the Big Bang Unico King Gold AFA stands out for its particularly summery aesthetic. The ceramic bezel and rubber strap echo the national team’s light-blue jersey, and the brand’s proprietary alloy emits a warm golden hue. This exclusive limited-edition timepiece also comes in titanium, while the Classic Fusion AFA, another standout, sports a navy-blue dial with a matching rubber strap.

Zenith takes sporty sophistication to new heights with its Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic, a fresh summer-themed addition to its collection. This timepiece is distinguished by its integrated case and bezel, featuring an openworked star-shaped blue dial that evokes the sky on a sunny day.

Elegance Meets Innovation

For those seeking refinement with modern sensibilities, watch brands offer timepieces blending artistry with cutting-edge engineering. Daniel Roth’s Rose Gold Tourbillon is a luxurious example, featuring a striking pink aesthetic and a display back that reveals the intricacies of its tourbillon movement.

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection exemplifies a harmony of elegance and functionality. The light-green dials of the Tonda PF Skeleton and Tonda PF Rattrapante infuse sophistication with summery freshness, creating watches that suit both formal occasions and relaxed settings.

Rolex takes innovation to another level with its new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller. This model boasts a high-frequency five-hertz movement, featuring the brand’s exclusive Dynapulse escapement and a glass caseback—an unprecedented feature in Rolex’s iconic lineup.

Grand Seiko continues to refine precision with the latest addition to its Evolution 9 series, the SLGB003. Equipped with the remarkable 9RB2 Spring Drive calibre, this ultra-fine accuracy (UFA) movement sets a new benchmark for precision, boasting an annual variation of plus or minus 20 seconds—an extraordinary feat for a mainspring-powered wristwatch.

Travel-Ready Timepieces

For those always on the move, watches that blend sleek design with practical features become essential companions. Nomos made a splash at Watches and Wonders this year with its Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, a travel-friendly model that remains surprisingly slim at only 9.9mm thick. Its attractive design and affordability make it an excellent choice for frequent travellers.

Other releases appeal to collectors who seek rare and exclusive pieces steeped in history and craftsmanship. Omega’s Olympic-themed novelties, unveiled last year, celebrate the spirit of international competition. Among them, the Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition seamlessly integrates the metals of Olympic medals—gold, silver (used for the dial), and bronze—into a refined vintage-inspired design. In addition to this stunning timepiece, selected Speedmaster Chronoscope models and a Seamaster Diver feature the interlocking Olympic rings engraved on the caseback and presented in commemorative packaging.

Sustainable and Future-Forward Designs

Environmental consciousness is shaping the future of horology. The shift towards eco-friendly materials has prompted brands to explore sustainable elements like bioceramic—a unique composite of ceramic powder and bio-based castor oil derivatives. This innovation aligns with the industry’s push for more durable and planet-friendly solutions.

Recycled metals and bio-based straps further enhance the eco-friendly ethos, contributing to a growing awareness of sustainability in watchmaking. Natural materials, such as stone dials, also add depth and uniqueness to watch designs. Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Rewind, adorned with a semiprecious carnelian dial, exemplifies this trend. Similarly, Piaget’s Andy Warhol model features blue meteorite and green malachite dials, celebrating the resurgence of natural elements in horology.

A Dynamic Future

As watchmakers explore sustainable innovations, vintage revivals, and expressive designs, the industry continues to evolve while honouring its heritage. Today’s timepieces offer a fascinating fusion of elegance, technological mastery, and artistic vision. Whether you seek investment-worthy collector pieces, a summer-ready accessory, or a forward-thinking design, this season’s watches reflect the dynamic and exciting future of horology.

Pocketbook Watches: Money is no object for serious collectors seeking a storied piece from the history of time

Collecting watches is a passion for many enthusiasts and a serious investment for others. Timepieces represent a blend of artistry, craftsmanship and history, celebrating the achievements of horology while providing a tangible connection to moments in time. As trends evolve and new models emerge, this fascination for watches continues to grow, and collectors never grow weary of wearing their hearts’ desire on their wrists.

Here, we spotlight some of the world’s most collectible watches, emphasising their importance in the realms of luxury, artistry and investment potential.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus was designed by the legendary Gérald Genta and introduced in 1976. As a luxury sports watch, it broke traditional design moulds with its distinctive octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Patek Philippe, a brand synonymous with excellence, ensures that the Nautilus line holds significant value. Certain models, especially the stainless-steel versions, have seen skyrocketing demand in secondary markets in recent years, making them highly collectible. The Nautilus embodies a combination of elegance and sporty appeal, appealing to a wide range of collectors.

Introduced in 1963 and initially designed for motor-racing drivers, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most recognised and coveted chronographs in the world. Its association with motorsports and its classic design have heightened its allure. Notably, the Paul Newman Daytona, named after the famous actor and racer who wore it, has achieved mind-blowing auction prices – Newman’s own watch gifted to him by his wife Joanne Woodward fetched a record-breaking US$17.8 million when it was sold in 2017. The melding of Rolex’s precision engineering with its status as a luxury brand makes the Daytona a hot item among collectors.

Launched in 1950 and originally designed for the Italian navy, the Panerai Luminor combines a rugged aesthetic with professional functionality. Its large case and luminous dial ensure legibility in extreme conditions, making it a favourite for diving enthusiasts. Limited editions and unique models often make waves in the collector’s market, driven by Panerai’s intriguing backstory and distinctive style.

Known as the ‘Moonwatch’, the Omega Speedmaster Professional has a unique place in history as the first watch worn on the moon; it graced the arm of astronaut Neil Armstrong during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Its robust design and precise chronograph function, which was tested by Nasa, secure its status among collectors. Limited editions and vintage Moonwatch models often fetch high prices at auctions, reflecting the Speedmaster’s legacy and appreciation among horological enthusiasts.

Audemars Piguet revolutionised the watch industry in 1972 by introducing the Royal Oak, a luxury sports watch made from stainless steel. Its unique octagonal bezel with eight decorative screws and tapisserie dial set it apart from traditional watch designs. The Royal Oak has remained in demand, especially its Offshore models introduced in 1993 and limited editions. Audemars Piguet’s relentless commitment to craftsmanship enhances this iconic timepiece’s status, making it a favoured choice among collectors.

The Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph was made famous by its association with Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans, and it remains a favourite among motorsport enthusiasts and collectors. Its square-case design with waterproof capability was a first for a chronograph, and it represents the pinnacle of 1970s style. Vintage Monaco models are highly sought after, particularly those associated with McQueen, making them a staple in many collectors’ portfolios.

Created in 1931, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is an iconic timepiece characterised by its unique reversible case, originally designed to protect the watch face during polo matches. With its Art Deco aesthetics and customisable dials, the Reverso appeals to collectors who appreciate both style and functionality. The ability to personalise the back of the watch adds to its charm, making certain limited editions incredibly desirable.

Established in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is hailed not only as the oldest watch manufacturer in continuous existence but also for crafting some of the most exquisite horological pieces. The Patrimony collection exemplifies elegance and simplicity, featuring classic round cases and refined dials. Limited editions and complicated models, such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, enhance their collectibility, appealing to serious watch enthusiasts.

Abraham-Louis Breguet is widely considered the father of modern watchmaking. The Breguet Classique series showcases the brand’s commitment to horological excellence with its intricate craftsmanship, guilloche dials and signature Breguet hands. Collectors admire Breguet for its historic significance and its place in the evolution of watch technology through its tourbillons and other complications.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is renowned for its oversized case and clear readability, originally designed for aviators. Since its debut in 1940, its distinctive marriage of engineering and style has ensured its desirability – first among German navigators in the Luftwaffe, and then with collectors around the world. Vintage models, especially those with specific case numbers or historical significance, often attract high bids at auction.

The Tag Heuer Carrera has a rich motorsport heritage that resonates with car enthusiasts and collectors alike. Initially introduced in 1963, its clean design and chronograph functionality have made it an enduring favourite. Limited editions, particularly those tied to racing events or high-profile collaborations, add to the model’s collectibility.

Richard Mille has made a significant impact on the luxury watch market since its inception in 2001. Known for innovative materials and avant-garde designs, its cutting-edge RM timepieces fuse high-performance technology with high fashion. Each model is meticulously crafted, often resulting in striking visuals and comprehensive engineering. The exclusivity and originality of Richard Mille watches have made them highly collectible among affluent individuals and watch enthusiasts.

Collecting watches is not just about owning timepieces; it’s about appreciating the rich history, craftsmanship and stories behind each model. From the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus to the innovative Richard Mille creations, the world of collectible watches is vast and varied. Generally speaking, collectors are drawn to these timepieces not only for their financial potential but for the deeper connections they forge with history, artistry and precise engineering. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a newcomer, the allure of collectible watches remains a captivating journey through time.

Geneva Invention: The annual lakeside unveiling by iconic brands sent ripples of wonder around the watching world

Billed as the largest watchmaking salon ever held in Geneva, this year’s Watches and Wonders was yet again the perfect timely opportunity for leading brands to showcase their latest novelties for watch enthusiasts to purr over. Some high-end watchmakers took the opportunity to release completely new models with bold new designs, while many latched onto the glare of publicity generated by the Geneva gathering to introduce iconic signature models with stylish new twists and technical upgrades.

Hublot used the grand stage of Watches and Wonders 2025 to honour the 20th anniversary of its revolutionary Big Bang collection via five new limited-edition 43mm chronographs. This exceptional quintet are crafted from materials closely associated with the pedigree of the Big Bang range, and highlight the innovative techniques required to achieve their harmonious fusion.

The Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic pays homage to the red ceramic model first released in 2018 and features a carbon chequerboard-patterned dial that provides striking juxtaposition with the vividly coloured high-tech material of the case and bezel. All the models retain the distinctive Big Bang silhouette with signature pinched lugs and a knurled bezel edge, while special enhancements include a gold oscillating weight and the Hublot 20th anniversary logo engraved on the crown.

Tag Heuer unveiled six additions to its Carrera Day-Date line, which is synonymous with motor sports, showcasing bold colours, elevated aesthetics and a three-dimensional dial design to improve legibility. It also released nine new iterations of its fabled Formula 1 driver’s watch, first conceived and released in the 1980s as a bright, colourful version of a diver’s watch that would appeal to a trendy, sophisticated clientele.

The new Formula 1 Solargraph models retain the design features of the original, albeit with slight modifications. They are now housed in 38mm cases that have been restructured to improve comfort and adopt the manufacture’s Solargraph movement that can harness the power of the sun to recharge itself.

Last month’s Geneva jamboree also saw Parmigiani Fleurier roll out many new additions, including a Slate Green version of the Tonda PF Skeleton. Encased in stainless steel, its luminous slate-green sandblasted and satin-finished openworked dial traps the light, illuminating the intricate calibre PF 777 movement in a magical dance of watchmaking artistry. Meanwhile, the dial of the Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm in Mineral Blue is blessed with a grain d’orge hand-guilloche pattern that underscores its soothing colour palette.

Patek Philippe ushered in a plethora of novelties including a new rose-gold version of its patented Annual Calendar, a wondrous mechanism revealed in 1996 that automatically adjusts the calendar indication for months of 30 or 31 days. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the Annual Calendar Moon Phases Ref. 4946R sees the warm tones of the gold complement a chestnut-coloured dial embossed with a vertical and horizontal satin-brushed finish in the shantung style. Rose-gold applied numerals and leaf-shaped hands with white luminescent coating impart extra finesse to the display. Days and months are indicated by hands, while moon phases and date are discerned through apertures.

Vacheron Constantin has embellished its Traditionnelle collection with three watches in 950 platinum. The Traditionnelle Openface trio – Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date, Tourbillon Retrograde Date and Complete Calendar – reveal fresh takes on the line’s signature openworked dial, a style which allows wearers to glimpse the sophistication of the movement within. The openwork embraces 18-carat gold intricately inserted with sapphire, and a hand-guilloché pattern motif inspired by the Maltese cross to mark the watchmaker’s 270th anniversary. The uniqueness of these individually numbered models is guaranteed by expert human craftsmanship that necessitates 10th-of-a-millimetre accuracy.

IWC Schaffhausen released 10 new models at Watches and Wonders, including an iteration of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 that will have motorsports and movie fans’ hearts racing – one with a signature green dial as sported by Brad Pitt’s character in the upcoming movie, F1. A new Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon ‘Le Petit Prince’, limited to 100 pieces and dedicated to the French aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, also debuted as part of an ongoing homage to the book of the same name. The blue ceramic case is matched by a blue dial and the calibre 51950 movement features a rotor in the form of the Little Prince atop his asteroid.

Montblanc’s new 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition watch takes its inspiration, and its robustness and durability, from a military monopusher from the 1930s. This fetching 100-piece, 44mm stainless-steel model features a dark-burgundy-hued sunray face with black counters. The dial is encircled by a tachymeter scale and a white-gold fluted bezel, while white luminescent Arabic numerals act to enhance legibility. The 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Chronograph in steel enhanced by a yellow-gold bezel is another attractive limited-edition newcomer. It is powered by the Montblanc Manufacture MB M17.26 movement, which has been flipped over and constructed upon pillars to reveal the full glory of its inner workings though the sapphire-crystal dial.

Another watch that seems to merge dial and movement into a single entity is Armin Strom’s Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Black Edition, released precisely in time for Watches and Wonders. Building on last year’s white gold model, its ARF22 movement with clearly visible hand-decorated components has a patented mechanism that ensures greater accuracy through two independent regulating systems connected by a resonance clutch spring. The 39mm steel case highlights the black beauty of the dial and mainplate.

Bremont debuted a trio of pilot watches to embellish its Altitude collection, with pride of place going to the MB Meteor, an upgraded iteration of the MB model. Specifically engineered to withstand the potentially huge pressure that occurs when testing an aircraft’s ejector-seat mechanism, its 42mm titanium case reduces weight and enhances durability, while the three-part Trip-Tick design offers a slimmer profile and trims the lug-to-lug distance to improve wearability.

Stone Age Allure: Dials precisely carved from semi-precious rocks reveal radiant hues and sheer elegance

First making waves in the 1960s, stone dials have made something of a comeback. With their stunning faces crafted from semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, jade and tiger’s eye these statement timepieces are exceedingly appealing to collectors. They are often unique, carved from a single block of stone and showcasing its natural variations. Their minimalist designs and bright aesthetics are other hallmarks that catch the eye.

To mark its 25th anniversary, Gerald Charles harnessed the power of stone for the first time in the dial of the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli, featuring the deep-blue metaphoric rock that was a favourite of company founder Gérald Genta. Carving the dial is an intricate process involving at least 24 hours of painstaking craftsmanship per watch. No two dials are exactly alike; each is cut by hand from raw stone down to an ultimate thickness of just 0.55mm, then polished by hand and machine to give the natural stone its ultimate sheen. Any faces exhibiting imperfections or not the desired hue are weeded out.

Mirroring the angled, asymmetric silhouette of the Maestro case – inspired by baroque motifs – presents further challenges when cutting of the dial, as does accommodating the hands and applied hour markers and drilling out the aperture for the date window. The lighter colour tones of the markers, the stainless-steel case and the brand logo embellished on the dial provide a striking contrast to the rich blue hues of the stone dial, the blue Colormix-coated bezel and the matching strap. Snug inside this 3.7mm-thick timepiece is the brand’s ultra-thin Swiss manufacture 2.0 calibre.

Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Atoll sports stone-cut dial crafted from chrysocolla housed in an 80% recycled stainless steel polished and satin-finished case. Limited to 100 pieces, uniqueness is ensured by each stone dial’s distinct and mesmerising patterns, with imagery alluring to lagoons, coral reefs and ocean vibes. Beautiful blends of blue and turquoise dotted with whisps of brown and black project an earthy elegance. A unidirectional rotating bezel set with 40 diamonds and 11 diamond indexes on the watch face add to the aesthetic appeal. Joining the brand’s Diver collection, the 39mm timepiece offers water resistance down to 300 metres and is powered by the UN-816 self-winding movement.

Three versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch boast dials cut from decorative stone: one of green aventurine distinguished by a crystallised surface; another made out of carnelian with its distinctive orange hue and panoply of patterned lines; and lastly a shimmering turquoise face threaded with natural veining. All three are embellished with diamond-set hour markers and Roman numerals ringed by a diamond-studded bezel. Each features the brand’s signature President bracelet with semi-circular three-piece links and the Calibre 3255 movement that activates the instantaneous day and date in apertures at 12 and three o’clock, and simultaneously the hour, minute and seconds hands.

Louis Erard’s Excellence Petite Seconde also offers connoisseurs three choices of colour-rich earthy materials – lapis lazuli, aventurine or malachite – for a stone dial pierced by a small-seconds disc at six o’clock. Limited to 99 unique pieces each, the three editions are pared down from rocks imbued with millions of years of history. The technical mastery of the stone marquetry involved in their creation is exemplified in the beautiful hues of the dials and their matching grained calf leather straps: gorgeous shades of blue lapis lazuli and aventurine, and malachite with a charming forest-green sheen.

L’Heure du Diamant watch by Chopard combines high-end jewellery with horological precision. One version of this feminine timepiece features a fetching malachite dial with hour markers and bezel resplendent in brilliant-cut diamonds whose transparency conjures a wonderful play of light. Measuring just 26mm in diameter, the ethical 18-carat rose-gold case houses the brand’s mechanical manual-winding 10.01-C movement.

Chaumet’s skilled artisans craft a glorious range of dials for the extraordinary Les Pierres de Rêve de Chaumet watch line, which exalts the exceptional qualities of ornamental stones and their powerful presence in Asian culture and poetry. Bezel and hinges adorned with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds frame decorative faces of yellow picture jasper, red picture jasper, mookaite jasper, rhodonite, pietersite, azurite, chrysocolla, dendritic agate and dendritic opal. The imagery on the dials conjures up vivid landscapes of vast deserts, forests, the depths of the oceans and so much more, with matching alligator straps accompanying these fantastical hues. These high-end timepieces are fitted with Swiss mechanical self-winding movements.

Limited to just five pieces, the Ocean Date Moon Phase Automatic 36mm watch by Harry Winston is undoubtedly elevated by its blue crystal opal dial. Eked out from the mining fields of Australia, this rare type of precious opal captivates further with its setting of 86 brilliant-cut diamonds and an emerald-cut diamond. A white-gold case festooned by 80 baguette-cut diamonds houses the HW3205 mechanical automatic movement.

Last year A. Lange & Söhne released Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 models limited to 300 and 150 pieces respectively in 950 platinum with a mesmerising black onyx face and matching strap. Debuting some three decades ago, the Lange 1 was noted for its distinctive off-centre dial design that represented a break from the norm. Encircled by a very slender bezel, the shimmering depth of the dark onyx gemstone in these new models perfectly highlights their sleek signature sub-dials with silver markings.

Parmigiani’s latest creation, the limited-edition Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue, has been developed with the so-called golden ratio guiding its proportions and dimensions. While not actually made of stone, the sandblasted dial radiates a stone-blue hue and a cool mineral feel, undoubtedly adding extra degrees of elegance to this prestigious watch. The words “Swiss Made”, “Parmigiani Fleurier” and “1 of 25” are engraved on the caseback.

Guilloche Guile: Decorative engravings created by a rose engine empower watches with mesmerising beauty

The fabulous geometric patterns of guilloché have intrigued high-end watchmakers for centuries. Engraving repeat straight lines or geometrical patterns on metal harks back to the 1500s, but it was Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) who instigated the decorative technique in watchmaking, hand-turning gold dials on a rose engine lathe – an instrument ideal for embellishing timepieces with complex and unique designs. Whether sunburst, barleycorn, clous de Paris (hobnail), tapisserie (flat-topped squares) or other ornamental motifs, these intricate, precise and sometimes overlapping engravings reflect the painstaking handiwork required in haute horlogerie.

A geometric pattern inspired by the spirals of a pinecone is the sole feature on the front of the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse bespoke watch, released in December by Parmigiani Fleurier in tribute to Michel Parmigiani’s birthday. Intriguingly, time is displayed at the back of the watchcase via rose gold hour and minute markers on a white jade chapter ring. It is also delivered acoustically through ‘cathedral’ gongs denoting the hours, quarters and minutes at the press of a button.

It is the splendid guilloché, though, that dominates this ‘secret’ minute-repeater watch. Meticulous craftsmanship transforms the fine engravings into a veritable visual feast and a sensory experience. Created by a master of guilloché, Yann von Kaenel, the ornamentation is imbued with the precision of the Fibonacci sequence and the golden ratio – a mathematical sequence that chimes with nature. The artisanal technique renders the translucent pastel-green grand-feu enamel of the case cover rich in detail and texture, displaying spiralling geometric patterns that allude to infinity while dazzling in a vibrant play of light.

Montblanc uses a special stamp to adorn its Star Legacy watches with guilloché. Two recent Automatic Date and Chronograph Day & Date models come with a fetching green dial embellished with an exploding star guilloché motif that replicates an aerial view of the Mont Blanc mountain. White luminescent rhodium-coated Roman numerals and sword-shaped hour and minute hands also highlight the watch face. Open casebacks offer glimpses of the movement within.

A salmon-coloured dial with a hand-guilloché central medallion and satin-brushed chapter ring distinguishes a standout edition of Chopard’s iconic L.U.C 1860 line. The breathtakingly beautiful hue of the gold dial perfectly complements the 36.5mm Lucent Steel case – a material composed of 80% recycled elements and treated as a precious metal. The hand-guilloché pattern radiates from the ornate Chopard logo at 12 o’clock and its symmetrical aspect lends a sense of balance and proportion to a sleek timepiece housing an ultra-thin L.U.C 96.40-L mechanical self-winding movement. As an additional decorative aspect, the bridges of the movement are adorned with the Côtes de Genève pattern.

Set in 18-carat white gold and framed by a slender bezel, Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art Les Univers Infinis watch face is a vision of majestic doves in flight rendered in contrasting hues of red and white. In this extraordinary ode to decorative horological arts, the gold base of the 40mm dial is crafted using engraving and champlevé enamelling techniques, with the overall décor further embellished with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds. The birds are enhanced by intricate hand-guilloché patterns in gold, while gold skeletonised hands denote the time.

Louis Erard demonstrates its command of the traditional metiers d’art for a second time with the Excellence Guilloché Main II watch. Featuring matte black varnish and a distinctly contemporary vibe, the interlocking square patterns of the diamond-like motif on the dial were realised in the time-honoured manner of hand guilloché using a rose engine. Each dial took several hours of painstaking and dexterous craftsmanship to complete and the machine even required the invention and manufacture of new cams. Powered by the Sellita SW261-1 automatic movement, this 42mm steel model is limited to 99 pieces.

Breguet’s Marine Tourbillion Equation Marchante 5887 gloriously captures the infinite precision and fine detail of intricate patterns weaved by master artisans. Housed in a 43.9mm platinum case, the aesthetics of its black-finish gold dial are enriched by hand-executed engine-turned decoration in the form of a hand-guilloché wave motif. This striking pattern is in keeping with the watchmaker’s nautical roots, as is the dial’s anchor-shaped retrograde hand denoting the date across an arc-shaped scale. Furthermore, the platinum peripheral oscillating weight of the automatic-winding calibre 581DPE, which displays a running equation of time and offers 80 hours of power reserve, is decorated with guilloché depicting the silhouette of the Royal Louis warship, while its single barrel is adorned with a hand-engraved compass rose.

German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne has elevated some recent additions to its Lange 1 line with eye-catching guilloché. Take the Little Lange 1 in 750 white gold, in which the signature grey dial pairs beautifully with the precious hue of its 36.8mm case. The patterns of the recessed guilloché dials are shimmering delights, their lines glistening like the spokes of a wheel as the watch hands rotate. Meanwhile, the diamond-set version of the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase creates the effect of snow falling on a winter’s day partly through multiple guilloché engravings on the dial.

Playing with matching colourful hues, Franck Muller added the Cintrée Curvex Nuance to its most distinctive line last year. Fronting a bidirectional automatic movement and framed by a signature curved, contoured case studded with diamonds, the striking dial is beautifully embellished with stamped guilloché in a sun pattern and 25 layers of lacquer; it also has a new sub-dial around the date aperture at six o’clock. Hand-sewn alligator-leather straps – hand-set with six brilliant-cut diamonds – are colour-coordinated with the numerals on the dial, a colour scheme giving the timepieces an undoubted visual appeal.

The aesthetics of Solar Aqua’s Prima Abyss are certainly enhanced by the radial guilloché pattern on the dial, which projects an enticing depth to the aspect of the watch. These three-level dials come in a variety of colours and sport Super-Luminova indexes and hands. Limited to 300 pieces and driven by customised F328 Peseux precision engines, the collection offers water resistance to a depth of 200 metres.

Snake under the Glass: A slew of imaginative watches slithers into view in time for Chinese New Year

High-end watchmakers show their wisdom by releasing auspicious additions to their collections to herald the Year of the Snake. Oozing charm and reverence in equal measures, this magnificent and mysterious creature plays well in these intricately crafted new designs that pay homage to the Chinese Zodiac, and avid collectors will revel in the amazing feats of horological innovation devised to celebrate Chinese cultural identity. Remember, it is the Wood Snake that has slithered into the spotlight for the first time since 1965, giving rise to a legion of agile, clever and courageous watch owners!

First up, Franck Muller has honoured the serpent by debuting an amazing-looking model, Silhouette CX Snake. This elegant 18-carat rose-gold watch succeeds in reflecting the sinuous nature of the reptile both as a motif on the dial and in a new asymmetrical case, which is an imaginative reworking of the Swiss manufacture’s statement Cintrée Curvex shape. The Silhouette CX’s curves and undulating lines mirror the writhing motion of the slippery snake on the watch face, where it appears in two dazzling swathes of tightly packed deep-green emeralds in the snow-setting technique. Hand-applied numerals on the sun-patterned guilloché dial are aligned with the unconventional dimensions of the watch design, as is the casing ring which houses the inhouse MVT FM 2038 movement. Embossed with a snakeskin texture, the hand-sewn serpentine-green calf-leather strap adds another touch to a timepiece that coolly captures the snake’s allure.

The Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Snake watch maintains Hublot’s tradition of reinterpreting models to mark the dawn of each Chinese New Year. A striking aspect of the timepiece, which is limited to just 88 pieces, is a dial illuminated by a three-dimensional gold-plated snake applique that wraps around the chronograph counters. Created with the aid of laser technology, this golden spectacle appears even more surreal as the dial is framed by a microblasted and polished black ceramic bezel engraved with snake-like scales. This look and feel extends to the rubber strap, thus achieving a sinuous, slithering whole. Typical of this line of watches, the self-winding skeletonised HUB4700 movement is clearly visible through the sapphire crystal of the open dial and display caseback.

Blancpain, similarly, has launched the next iteration of its ongoing homage to the Chinese calendar. Housed in a 45.2mm platinum case, Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2025 features a fetching green Grand Feu enamel dial with an assortment of indications displayed in Chinese character-inscribed sub-dials, including the five elements, celestial stems and leap month. Naturally, a wood snake is spied through the 12 o’clock aperture of the new Chinois Traditionnel watch. Artisans at Blancpain’s Métiers d’Art workshop, meanwhile, embossed the 22-carat white-gold rotor with an arresting image of a coiled snake, accompanied by the words ‘serpent’ and ‘wood’ in Chinese.

Odes to Chinese New Year appear at back and front of Longines’ Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake. The watch’s vintage ’50s-style sunray gradient dial is an auspicious red, while Beijing-based artist Wu Jian’an beautifully engraves the caseback with a serpent inspired by the Chinese folklore, Legend of the White Snake. The accompanying words, “2025 Year of the Snake – Limited Edition – One of 2025”, are also designed to bring good luck and fortune. An inhouse L888 automatic movement provides 72 hours of power reserve and 10 times the standard magnetic resistance.

The Reverso Tribute Enamel Snake, strictly limited and made to order, is the third timepiece in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Chinese Zodiac range. A snake motif has been chiselled onto the reverse side of the pink-gold watch case by an inhouse enameller using a modelled engraving technique. Requiring 10 different chisels and 80 hours of work, this painstaking process is made even more arduous by a surface of glossy black Grand Feu enamel rather than bare metal. The glowing black background – also used for the dial – perfectly contrasts with the intricate details of the snake’s body. Set in golden clouds, the serpent appears to shimmer and writhe with each movement of light.

Vacheron Constantin applies its mastery of enamelling and hand-engraving to pay tribute to Chinese culture through the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake watch. Limited to 25 pieces each in pink gold or platinum, the timely new edition celebrates the powers of the snake with a lifelike miniature picture of a majestic cobra atop a rock on the dial. The finest enamelling and engraving techniques render a sinuous ochre-coloured serpent with matching rock and foliage on the pink-gold version, while the platinum model sees snake and rock embellished in anthracite grey with green leaves. Keeping this rich decoration unobstructed, apertures rather than hands display the time, day and date.

A specially-designed serpent-shaped rotor is the highlight of the Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 Year of the Snake watch launched by IWC Schaffhausen. Its 37mm stainless-steel case also houses a striking burgundy dial that symbolises the vibrant colour of fire, which in the Lunar New Year tradition is matched by golden moon and stars and hands and numerals. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 32800 calibre with a reserve of 120 hours, the watch boasts two straps – black and burgundy.

Harry Winston ushers two gem-set limited-edition watches starring the snake into its Moments collection to celebrate the annual auspicious tidings. Crafted from rose or white gold, the Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm timepieces have a spectacular dial embellished with a red lacquered serpent writhing around in a lush garden – the exquisite detailing of the latter achieved through metal leaves painted in green on a beaded mother-of-pearl background. These timely arrivals are ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and backed by the Calibre HW2010.

A kaleidoscope of vibrant hues conjures the mood of the two watches released by Swatch to celebrate the ascendant Wood Snake. Blue and Golden Lithe Dancer and Golden Red Bamboo both come in special packaging matching their outstanding designs. The former, a Big Bold model, features a snake prancing across a dark-blue background, and the sleeker Skin Irony edition contrasts striking colours in an ultra-thin case.

Rise of the Titans: Watches crafted from titanium meld lustrous, lightweight allure with great strength

Used by the finest watchmakers for more than 50 years, titanium is blessed with many highly desirable characteristics. While possessing the hardness of stainless steel, titanium is far lighter and it offers excellent resistance to corrosion and hypoallergenic qualities. Sophisticated craftsmanship enables the metal’s precise honing into cases and bracelets of the desired specifications. Its range of hues provides an appealing – and much utilised – extra layer of versatility, too

A combination of strength, lightness and rust resistance explains why titanium is widely used in other precision industries including the automotive, aerospace and marine sectors. Medical instruments, like quality watches, benefit from its skin-friendly properties. Pure, grade 2 titanium or the harder, grade 5, a titanium alloy including vanadium and aluminium, is the metal of choice in watchmaking.

Vacheron Constantin utilised the noble qualities of the metal in a new all-titanium version of the Overseas Tourbillon. By incorporating the robust, featherweight and hypoallergenic qualities of grade 5 titanium into its Overseas catalogue, the Maison gave a further fillip to the sporty and hard-wearing characteristics of the collection.

Unveiled at last year’s Watches and Wonders, the new timepiece is distinguished by the aesthetics of its translucent blue-lacquered dial – emblematic of the line – featuring a sunburst satin-finished base complete with velvet-finished flange. Given the rigidity of the material, the titanium-hewn case, bracelet, crown and bezel required extremely careful workmanship. Powered by the in-house, ultra-thin, self-winding Calibre 2160, the watch is further enhanced by a tourbillon regulator visible at six o’clock through an aperture in the dial.

Chopard has also harnessed the outstanding resistance and aesthetics of this metal to accentuate the signature qualities of some of its finest watches. For instance, the ultra-thin Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT (technical titanium) in grade 5 titanium radiates a darker hue than steel and attributes like lightness of feel and supreme resistance to corrosion will strike a chord with outdoor sports enthusiasts.

Its latest limited-edition L.U.C Full Strike, meanwhile, utilises the enhanced qualities of ceramicised titanium to house its famous minute-repeater movement. Achieved by the oxidation of the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures, ceramicised titanium is even harder than grade 5 titanium and in no way compromises the quality of chime emitted from the solid sapphire gongs attached to a sapphire crystal resonator. Joining other special editions crafted from gold, steel, platinum and sapphire respectively, the anthracite hue of its ceramicised case contrasts beautifully with a verdigris (grey-green) brass dial with a finely frosted centre.

A brand with strong aviation roots, Longines has recently added a model adorned with titanium to its Pilot Majetek range. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition pairs a 43mm cushion-shaped case in grade 5 titanium with a signature bidirectional rotating bezel with Starting Time Indicator – details, along with the recessed dial at six o’clock, that betray a flying tradition. At back, the inhouse calibre L893.6 offers high resistance to magnetism and the case is engraved with the words “Pioneer Edition / One of 1935”.

Maurice Lacroix combines the fine qualities of both grades of this light metal for its new 42mm Aikon Automatic and 44mm Aikon Automatic Chronograph timepieces. Some sport dials of incredibly rich colours that perfectly offset the titanium hues of the case, while an intriguing interplay of finishes between grade 2 and grade 5 is also conjured.

Richard Mille uses the tensile and aesthetic properties of the grade 5 alloy to enhance and project the taut features of its RM 17-02 Manual Winding Tourbillon. The showcase tourbillon movement is housed in a titanium case; skeletonised baseplate and bridges come in the same choice of metal with black PVD treatment. In a show of modern and technical sophistication, the finely textured satin-finished alloy accentuates the three-part tonneau shape and line configuration of the timepiece.

Krayon’s workshops in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, have released their first titanium watch in the form of Anywhere Aurora. Powered by the Calibre C030 movement designed by brand founder Rémi Maillat, this ultra-slim watch weighs just 50g thanks to its titanium construction and the light but super-hard material is shaped and polished assiduously by hand.

The smooth glow of the shimmering case contrasts superbly with an emerald-green dial that changes radiance – from pale to iridescent tones – according to the angle of the sun’s rays. This feat is enabled by an Atomic Layer Deposition process, which coats the dial with ultrathin films of select compounds that can interact with the light. Underscoring the technical marvels of this watch, a peripheral ring around edge of the dial is split into day (mother-of-pearl white) and night (deep green) sections which change length as the days pass and seasons change – a masterstroke that can be altered as the wearer moves around the globe.

A satin-finished and polished titanium case, case back and bezel sets off the masterful visual imagery of Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon. An amazing three-dimensional, multi-level dial recreates the traditional Chinese paper-cutting art of Chen Fenwan, morphing the watch face into a silhouette of a dragon. This fantastical motif continues its journey along the scale-like marquetry bracelet.

By introducing the Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver watch, Angelus embellishes its Chronodate range with a new tone-on-tone colour scheme. Bezel, bracelet, folding buckle, crown and monobloc middle case are all crafted from titanium, projecting a grey hue which extends into the sunray-brushed ‘magnetic silver’ dial. The design of the latest timepiece is deliberately configured to offer enticing colour contrasts.

Ressence’s Type 3 Eucalyptus watch features a unique titanium dial in an attractive soft green hue and a futuristic look. Backed by a patented automatic movement offering 36 hours of power reserve, its 44mm case – also crafted from grade 5 titanium – is partly filled with oil to ensure that the floating hands-free dial can be read from all angles through indicators for days, seconds, minutes and hours. A textile strap is fashioned from plush Alcantara.

Platinum Pinnacle: Watchmakers exhibit a rare show of strength when crafting collectibles from this coveted metal

Watches crafted from platinum have rightly earned an exalted reputation for utilising perhaps the most prestigious metal in the high-end market. Ensuring striking aesthetics in luscious silvery tones, the gorgeous metallic finish combines well with many hues. Indeed, such is the lustre of platinum watches that they are often reserved for special-edition pieces. In addition, the superior strength, denseness and durability of this rare metal compared to gold make its manufacture an engineering and technical masterclass, while offering incredible versatility.

Take the new Platinum Edition Excalibur Monobalancier released by Roger Dubuis. The maison has been able to channel the durable and visually appealing qualities of platinum to mould a highly expressive timepiece that will stand the test of time. Emanating a vivid mint green colour, it features a striking skeletonised design with many signature elements and intricate line patterns. The expertise required in the making of the piece explains its exclusivity, as just 30g of platinum can be extracted from 10 tonnes of mineral, necessitating ultra-high fusion temperatures and engineering expertise.

Powered by the RD720SQ automatic self-winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the watch comes in a 42mm case with an open caseback crafted from platinum PT950 – the highest quality of platinum used in jewellery and prized in watchmaking for its outstanding anti-allergenic quality and resistance to tarnishing. Its eye-catching dial has a green lacquered double surface flange incorporating engraved minute track and transferred texts, as well as polished rhodium-plated hour markers.

Marking a first for the brand, Arnold & Son has leveraged the supreme qualities of 950 platinum in its latest Globetrotter release. The 45mm case of the limited-edition Globetrotter Platinum resonates with the magnificence of the precious metal, while the marvellous central globe pays tribute to the 18th-century maritime roots of John Arnold, the esteemed English watchmaking pioneer. The in-house automatic A&S6022 movement is decorated with a circular-grained and NAC (N-Acetylcysteine)-treated main plate that sits well with the colour and character of the platinum case. The bridges of the movement are also NAC-finished, and exhibit chamfered and polished Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre.

The Globetrotter’s signature terrestrial globe has rhodium-plated and polished continents with matt detailing on the mountain ranges, and hand-painted blue lacquer and powdered mother-of-pearl oceans and shores. A blue alligator-leather strap complements the graduated shades of blue that distinguish the three-dimensional dial.

Patek Philippe’s Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases is the headline attraction of a completely new collection. Etched out of platinum into a shape exhibiting a signature square with rounded corners, the 45mm watch has polished sides on the bezel and case flanks that contrast with the vertical satin-brushed finish of the front of the case and bezel. The timepiece is blessed with the new and outstanding calibre 240 PS CI J LU movement, with six patents required to achieve its instantaneous grand date complication. However, one enduring feature, and a hallmark of all the brand’s platinum models, is the 0.02-carat diamond set into the bezel at six o’clock – which is baguette-cut for the first time. A platinum Cubitus fold-over clasp fastens the navy blue strap with cream stitching.

Czapek & Cie’s aim when introducing the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition was to use platinum in an unexpected way. Released to celebrate the 70th anniversary of luxury retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the watch boasts a distinctive mirrored dial hewed from a single silicon wafer with its surface polished perfectly smooth and shiny before PVD platinum coating is applied. Limited to just 38 pieces, it is powered by the in-house Calibre SXH5 with a micro-rotor made from recycled 950 platinum. A bimetallic case and bracelet crafted from a blend of steel and yellow gold is designed to complement the mirrored dial.

Vacheron Constantin’s vision is to harness the qualities of platinum for its finest collections – such as the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. The precious metal is used extensively in the latest addition to this range, namely the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and Wonders and limited to just 50 pieces. Watch case, crown, dial, buckle and strap stitching – made of braided silk and platinum thread – are all endowed with the noble 950 platinum material. The inhouse manual-winding Calibre 3200 movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Lange 1, Swiss maison A. Lange & Söhne has released new versions including an elite platinum model bearing a black onyx dial and limited to 300 pieces with edition number engraving. Meanwhile, a new iteration of the Little Lange 1 housed in a 950 platinum case comes in a 150-piece edition. The manufacture’s calibre L121.1 drives both models.

The attractive openworked design of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum watch intentionally conjures up a magnificent play on light. The skeletonised, polished and sandblasted oscillating weight of the in-house PF777 movement offers a captivating contrast with the sandblasted and satin-finished Milano blue dial, a phalanx of sharp angles and visual interplay. The polished and satin-finished case crafted from platinum 950 with knurled bezel adds to the spectacle and ensures an even distribution of weight for the timepiece.

When Breitling decided to reissue the historic AVI 1953 Edition, it also released two limited-edition precious-metal versions, one in platinum with just 153 iterations (a statement which is proudly engraved on the case) and another in rose gold numbering 253 pieces. While the new versions stay true to the renowned aviation roots of the original model, they are now water resistant to 300 metres and omit the ‘GENEVE’ lettering on the surface of the dial surface. Super-LumiNova also ensures luminescent numerals, hour and minute hands.

Hublot’s Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto Platinum is a limited-edition watch featuring a dial made from genuine Berluti-patinated Venezia leather with embossed indexes. The strap is also fashioned from this exclusive brown leather along with black rubber in a combination that projects a fine contrast to the polished platinum case and bezel. The self-winding HUB1100 movement is secured by a satin-finished platinum caseback featuring brand-related engravings.