From the Silk Road to couture gowns, silk has come a long way

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Silk. For centuries, people crossed deserts and scaled mountains to trade it. Opposing powers fought to control it. Traditionally used to make cheongsams, now we also buy it in the form of pyjamas, scarves and bath robes.

In modern times, silk has become synonymous with all things pleasing: soft sheets, chocolate mousse, smooth skin. The word itself promises unparalleled comfort and indulgence. But how did silk become so widely attainable, while still maintaining its luxury status and aspirational price tag?

The story of silk is one that dates back a long way. According to Chinese myth, silk was discovered by Chinese Empress Leizu about 5,000 years ago. Legend has it that the empress – wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor – was having tea under a mulberry tree one day when a silkworm cocoon dropped into her tea cup.
According to an account in the book Middlesex: “When (the empress) tried to remove it, she noticed that the cocoon had begun to unravel in the hot liquid. She handed the loose end to her maidservant and told her to walk. The servant went out of the (empress’s) chamber, and into the palace courtyard, and through the palace gates, and out of the Forbidden City, and into the countryside a half mile away before the cocoon ran out.”

While the tale of Leizu is rather charming, new scientific findings actually suggest that silk was discovered much earlier. Last January, scientists unearthed the earliest evidence of silk production to date – silk fibres contained in soil samples that had been excavated from tombs dating back 8,500 years in Jiahu, central China. Researchers suggested that people may have been buried in silk garments during that time. Shrouded in mystery, silk remained one of China’s best-kept secrets for centuries.

(FILES) This file photo taken on November 4, 2016 shows an Afghan man riding a horse overlooking Band-e-Amir lake, the first national park in Afghanistan in the central province of Bamiyan, which is a top tourist destination mainly for Afghan visitors. The Silk Roads, an ancient network of trade routes that crossed central Asia, were shaped by the nomadic movements of herders up to 4,000 years ago, a paper in this week’s Nature reveals. The study is the first to quantify the emergence of the Silk Roads both in terms of time and ecology, highlighting the role of non-urban societies in the development of one of the most extensive networks of biological and economic change in human history. / AFP PHOTO / WAKIL KOHSAR

While there are several varieties of silkworm throughout the world, the Bombyx mori species is the most widely used. Starting out as a blind moth that cannot fly, it lays about 500 eggs in less than a week, and dies shortly thereafter. After emerging from the eggs, the larvae – or caterpillars known as silkworms – feed on mulberry leaves. Then, after moulting several times, the silkworm excretes a fluid from its salivary glands, which forms a long thread that is hardened by a gum called sericin. It then spins the thread and encloses itself inside its cocoon for a few days.

To acquire the raw material, the cocoons are boiled in water during the ‘degumming process’ and the silkworms are killed, save for an important few that are kept alive by silk producers to propagate the species. The silk fibres are then unravelled and wound onto reels. It takes about 3,000 silkworms to produce just one pound of raw silk. Hence the Chinese proverb: “With time and patience the mulberry leaf becomes a silk gown.”

A model parades a creation from the Silk Road Star Cheng Yingfen collection designed by Cheng Yingfen at China Fashion Week in Beijing on October 29, 2015. AFP PHOTO CHINA OUT / AFP PHOTO / STR

In modern times, silk has courted controversy. Some animal rights organisations, like PETA, take issue with the number of silkworms sacrificed to produce silk. Thus, ‘peace silk’ emerged as a substitute – the manufacture of which does not involve the death of the silkworm. This, however, is a fairly new trend. Silk Road traders and, for that matter, the Chinese emperors who at one time forbade everyone else from wearing silk, were unlikely to have been too concerned about the dying wishes of the silkworm.

China’s early rulers reportedly wore white silk robes inside the palace, and yellow robes – the colour of the earth – outdoors. Eventually, silk trickled down to the higher classes of Chinese society and was fashioned into clothing and decorations. Through time, silk found a number of other applications. It was used in the production of musical instruments, fishing lines, bowstrings and a luxurious type of paper. It later became a valuable form of currency in its own right, and – along with bronze coins and grain – was traded for other goods.

Myths abound as to how China’s silk-spinning secrets spread beyond its imperial borders to Central Asia. One tale has it that around 500AD a Chinese princess married the King of Khotan (now present-day Xinjiang, northwest China), who told her that if she wanted to continue wearing silk dresses, she had to bring him some mulberry tree seeds and silk worms. So she smuggled them in her enormous headdress.

Silk ties rolled in a shop window display

Regardless of the veracity of the tale, historical evidence has revealed that the Silk Road, a trade route that emerged during the Han Dynasty around 200BC, was the main factor contributing to the spread of silk. The term ‘Silk Road’ was coined in 1877 by a German geographer who worked in China and created an atlas depicting a “relatively straight and well-travelled” route from China to Europe. However, contrary to popular belief, the Silk Road was not a single, unified road at all.

According to historian and author Valerie Hanson: “The ‘road’ was not an actual road but a stretch of shifting, unmarked paths across massive expanses of deserts and mountains. In fact, the quantity of cargo transported along these treacherous routes was small.”

The goods transported and traded along the now-famed route were not just limited to silk either. They also included spices, leather goods, metals, glass and other materials. The route began in Xi’an, China, and snaked westward through the 1,000-kilometre Gansu Corridor – wedged between the Qinghai Mountains and the Gobi Desert. After reaching Dunhuang in Gansu Province, traders could take one of three routes, one of which ran right through the desert. Then it was onward to the western borders of imperial China and further beyond to Central Asia, South Asia and the Middle East.

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Few traders actually traversed the entire route. Instead, it was much easier to have middle-men placed along the route, and the goods typically changed hands several times before ending up at their final destination. Silk found its way into the Roman Empire around 115BC, and even Julius Caesar was said to have owned silk curtains.

While China has more or less maintained its monopoly on the silk trade for thousands of years (at times, it fell behind Japan and other powers), the empire could not stop others from cultivating their own silk. The practice spread to Korea in 200BC, then to Japan, India, the Byzantine Empire and on to the Middle East. The Crusades brought silk to Western Europe, particularly Italy, which profited from the trade boom and also become the fashion capital that it still is today. After the invention of the spinning wheel and the Industrial Revolution in Europe, the rest, as they say, was history. Cotton eventually became cheaper to produce than silk, followed by other materials like nylon, which cemented silk’s status as a rare luxury good.

Silk_road_festival_at_Nasirabad_HunzaFor evidence of that fact, look no further than the array of high-end silk products currently on the market. A king-sized silk bed cover by Frette, for example, will set you back US$2,200 (HK$17,300). The Italian brand makes some of the world’s most expensive linens, which have been supplied to luxury hotels around the world, including the Ritz in Paris, the Danieli in Venice and the Peninsula in Hong Kong. The aforementioned silk bed cover displays a chromatic effect produced by yarn-dyed mixed silk jacquard, a process that colours each individual thread, giving the cover a lavishly luminous look.

Silk bathrobes can be even more expensive. Designer Tom Ford’s silk bathrobes – which are often limited editions – carry a price tag of US$4,000 to $6,000. They have been featured in a number of TV shows such as the vampire fantasy-horror True Blood as well as the James Bond films. Not to be outdone, a purple paisley bathrobe previously released by Italian designer Stefano Ricci – made of 100 percent silk and lined with cashmere – was priced at $5,415. But nothing compares to the price tag on antique Chinese robes. Silk robes from the Qing Dynasty can cost up to $10,000, while ones from the 17th century often cost up to $20,000.

511148592_b_effWhile silk has a reputation for being soft and delicate, the fibres that constitute the material are surprisingly strong and durable. This makes it useful in a number of more industrial products, such as electronic insulation coils, suture materials for medical use, military-grade parachutes and artillery gunpowder bags, tires and even prosthetic arteries.

China is once again the leading producer of silk at 146,000 metric tonnes per year. Along with the second largest producer, India, the two countries produce more than 60 percent of the world’s annual silk supply.

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So what’s next for silk? Scientists recently made a breakthrough by inventing a method to produce artificial spider silk that is both biodegradable and as strong as steel. The spinning process mimics the way that spiders produce the fibres naturally.

“In the future, this may allow industrial production of artificial spider silk for biomaterial applications or for the manufacture of advanced textiles,” said Dr Anna Rising, a member of the team of Swedish researchers developing the new method.

The continued mechanisation of silk production could render the good old silkworm obsolete – but that remains to be seen. For now, silk is very much part and parcel of the luxury industry, whether it be high fashion or five-star hotels. After all, if silk is fit for an emperor, it’s a material most definitely worth flaunting.

Text: Emily Petsko

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  169. Hey there would you mind sharing which blog platform you’re working with? I’m planning to start my own blog soon but I’m having a tough time making a decision between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your design seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something unique. P.S Apologies for getting off-topic but I had to ask!

  170. My spouse and I absolutely love your blog and find the majority of your post’s to be just what I’m looking for. Do you offer guest writers to write content for you? I wouldn’t mind writing a post or elaborating on a number of the subjects you write related to here. Again, awesome web log!

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  177. Awesome blog! Do you have any tips and hints for aspiring writers? I’m planning to start my own website soon but I’m a little lost on everything. Would you propose starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a paid option? There are so many choices out there that I’m totally confused .. Any recommendations? Cheers!

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  179. Wow that was strange. I just wrote an very long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyways, just wanted to say fantastic blog!

  180. Can I simply just say what a relief to uncover an individual who actually understands what they’re discussing on the internet. You definitely realize how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people must look at this and understand this side of the story. It’s surprising you aren’t more popular because you most certainly have the gift.

  181. May I just say what a comfort to find an individual who really understands what they’re talking about on the web. You actually realize how to bring a problem to light and make it important. More people should read this and understand this side of the story. I was surprised that you are not more popular given that you definitely have the gift.

  182. Aw, this was an incredibly nice post. Taking the time and actual effort to make a really good article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a whole lot and never seem to get nearly anything done.

  183. Right now it sounds like BlogEngine is the preferred blogging platform out there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you’re using on your blog?

  184. Currently it appears like BlogEngine is the top blogging platform available right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you’re using on your blog?

  185. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  186. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  188. Right now it sounds like BlogEngine is the top blogging platform out there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you are using on your blog?

  189. Wow that was strange. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyway, just wanted to say superb blog!

  190. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  191. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  192. At this time it sounds like Movable Type is the best blogging platform available right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you are using on your blog?

  193. Hello there, You’ve done an excellent job. I’ll certainly digg it and for my part recommend to my friends. I am confident they’ll be benefited from this website.

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  195. Currently it sounds like WordPress is the preferred blogging platform available right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you’re using on your blog?

  196. Hey there, You have done a great job. I will definitely digg it and for my part suggest to my friends. I am sure they’ll be benefited from this website.

  197. Currently it seems like Expression Engine is the top blogging platform out there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you’re using on your blog?

  200. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  202. Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t appear. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyways, just wanted to say great blog!

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  204. Aw, this was an extremely good post. Spending some time and actual effort to create a top notch article… but what can I say… I put things off a whole lot and don’t seem to get nearly anything done.

  205. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  206. Hello there, You have done a fantastic job. I’ll certainly digg it and in my opinion suggest to my friends. I am confident they’ll be benefited from this web site.

  207. Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an really long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyhow, just wanted to say wonderful blog!

  208. Aw, this was a very good post. Taking a few minutes and actual effort to make a superb article… but what can I say… I put things off a whole lot and don’t seem to get nearly anything done.

  209. May I just say what a comfort to uncover someone that really understands what they are talking about on the net. You actually realize how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people need to read this and understand this side of the story. It’s surprising you’re not more popular because you most certainly possess the gift.

  210. Aw, this was a very nice post. Taking a few minutes and actual effort to produce a superb article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a lot and never manage to get nearly anything done.

  211. Aw, this was an exceptionally good post. Finding the time and actual effort to make a top notch article… but what can I say… I put things off a whole lot and don’t seem to get anything done.

  212. Wow that was strange. I just wrote an incredibly long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Anyways, just wanted to say superb blog!

  215. Aw, this was an incredibly nice post. Taking the time and actual effort to make a great article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a lot and never seem to get anything done.

  216. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  218. Can I simply say what a relief to uncover someone who really understands what they’re talking about online. You certainly understand how to bring an issue to light and make it important. A lot more people have to look at this and understand this side of your story. I was surprised that you’re not more popular since you most certainly possess the gift.

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