Wrist Pilot: High-fliers can reach for the skies with the latest heritage-inspired aviator watches

The concept of the aviation watches has a long and rich history, stretching back to the onset of the wristwatch just after the turn of the last century. A reliable pilot’s watch was considered a vital and necessary part of the navigational armoury for aviators in the early days of flight.

Louis Cartier is said to have created the first pilot’s watch – Santos de Cartier – in 1904 and in so doing gave famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont something he had longed for: the ability to tell the time whilst flying. Crucially, this allowed him to carry on manning the controls of his plane without having to look at his pocket watch – a revolutionary concept which meant that the rollout of the aviation watch and the wristwatch could be said to have gone hand in hand.

The modern Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece continues to imitate its heritage and engineering detail. The latest iteration features a skeleton movement which includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of an aircraft that soars over the globe. The wingspan reminds of a Demoiselle, the plane designed by Santos-Dumont himself. Also evoking the elegant early 1904 model are a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and a blue cabochon. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton comes in three metals headlined by the yellow gold and navy lacquer version in a prized limited edition.

pilot timepiece — Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42

Another luxury brand with a rich history in aviation watches, Breitling nods to the original 1953 Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot in its latest offerings. The Classic AVI collection uses a 42mm format moulded from the design codes established by the 46mm Super AVI, which itself was inspired by the pioneering Ref. 765 AVI. With the inclusion of a Breitling Calibre 23 chronograph movement, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 is a lighter version of the Super model in response to customer requests and comes without the brawny GMT complications. It comes in colour schemes which pay homage to four legendary aircraft – the Mustang, the naval Corsair, the Warhawk and the Mosquito.

Patek Philippe also dips back in time – though only eight years to the model’s origins in this case – for the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. The new Calatrava pilot’s watch comes with either a sunburst blue-grey or lacquered khaki green dial highlighted by white-gold applied numerals that are recessed and filled with luminescent coating. The skeletonised hand displays the home time while the solid hand indicates local time. Chronograph pushers are positioned at two and four o’clock, with enlarged correction push-pieces for local time at eight and 10 o’clock. Its white-gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire crystal case back, and the calfskin strap matches the dial – either grained navy blue or vintage-finish olive green with contrasting cream stitching.

aviation watches — IWC 388106 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

IWC has a long presence in the aviation sector, soaring back to the 1930s and 1940s, and is proud of its cockpit-instrument look. Essential characteristics of its modern aviator timepieces have remained loyal to the dial design and visual vibe of pre-Second World War models. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features a green dial with luminescent qualities and 10-bar water-resistant properties (100 metres to non-divers). It has a matching green rubber strap and an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 41 mm, making it suitable for slender wrists.

Zenith stated its early intention to be involved in the world of aviation when founder Georges Favre-Jacot saw the dawn of the aviation age and wanted his company to be part of it. It now offers a range of pilot’s watches including the Pilot Big Date Flyback, which boasts a black corrugated dial aid with large luminescent Arabic numerals, and the distinctive Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, distinguished by oversized Arabic numerals and powered by the EI Elite automatic manufacture movement. The Pilot Automatic is considered the template for Zenith’s new generation of pilot watches.

Also Read: Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Though a far cry from the precision ‘Time of Trip’ chronographs designed by Heuer and installed on airplane dashboards during the early years of aviation, the contemporary Tag Heuer Autavia still retains a classic feel. The Autavia COSC GMT pilot’s watch comes in steel with a blue sunray brushed dial and luminescent Super-Luminova hands and indexes.

Perhaps most notable within the Bremont collection of aviation models is the Bremont MB range, designed after ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker requested they create a pilot’s watch. The timepiece had to withstand rigorous testing comparable to the ejection seats. The limited-edition MBI is reserved for flyers who have successfully ejected from an aircraft using one of the company’s seats – other versions (MBII and MBIII) are available to all enthusiasts.

Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Perfectly encapsulating its tagline, “the future of Swiss watchmaking,” the pioneering horology brand Zenith has a rich history that has shaped its success today mainly due to the futuristic mindset that prevails among its watchmakers.

In fact, the idea for Zenith’s iconic Pilot line emerged back in the late 19th century, even before the first flight, with its founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s belief that humankind would reach the sky one day. With such an outlook and dedication to aviation, the Pilot line was created as one of the first watches for pilots.

Since then Zenith has continued to hold onto this heritage while simultaneously adapting to contemporary trends to launch a series of Pilot watches through the centuries.

Newly added to this line is the Pilot Automatic with two renditions – stainless steel and ceramic – released at the Watches and Wonders 2023. This newly-designed timepiece is complete with a rounded 40mm case with a black opaline dial with luminescent numbers using the Super-LumiNova technology, a flat-top bezel and an angular large-sized crown.

While the stainless steel version is vertically satin-brushed and comes with two interchangeable straps in brown calfskin leather and black cordura-effect rubber, the ceramic ones have a matte finish and are accompanied by a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The dial also has the words pilot engraved on it, a word that was trademarked by Zenith in 1904.

The most notable aspect of the new Pilot Automatic is the 6’o clock mark which is replaced by the date and has a bold white dash on top of it to mimic the artificial horizon instrument seen on aeroplanes thus showing off the horologist’s aviation spirit.

Beyond its physical aspects, the watch has a winding mechanism that uses an open and blackened oscillating weight similar to the artificial horizon instrument and boasts an El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement which gives the instrument its 60-hour power reserve when it is wound fully.

Another equally fascinating watch in the Pilot series is the newly-released chronograph timepiece Pilot Big Date Flyback which is embedded with a newly-developed version of the El Primero 3600 calibre, the El Primero 3652 calibre which is particularly made with the pilots’ requirements in mind by including two distinctive features – the big date and the flyback function.

With a dial that is slightly bigger than the Pilot Automatic – precisely 42.5mm, the brand dropped two versions of the Pilot Big Date Flyback also in stainless steel and ceramic. Its watch dial is an ode to the brand’s iconic El Primero Rainbow from 1997 with its bright orange minute and seconds hands and an oversized date display. Similar to the Pilot Automatic, the Big Date Flyback also come with exchangeable watch straps and has a quick-release mechanism too allowing watch wearers to effortlessly change the straps.

In addition to the Pilot collection, Zenith also launched three other unisex watches – Defy Revival Shadow, Defy Skyline Ceramic and Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic – as part of its DEFY Revival line at the Watches and Wonder 2023. The new pieces are a modern revival of the original DEFY model released in 1969.

The Defy Skyline Ceramic, for instance, has a flat top bezel with an octagonal-shaped black ceramic case that gives the watch its bold appeal. The watch’s case and straps – available in rubber and ceramic – are manufactured with metals and alloys that give the watch its unhinged quality which ensures that watch wearers need not worry about scratches or the watch losing its vibrant new look.

In terms of its technical aspects, the gadget is inbuilt with an automatic high-frequency El Primero 3620 manufacture movement and the first-ever 1/10th of a second indicator.

Click here to explore Zenith’s newest watches, launched at the Watches and Wonders 2023.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

Seven standout timepieces from the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction

The biennial Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute-horology enthusiasts. Now in its ninth iteration, it was founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charity, the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM). The heartbreaking diagnosis of his five-year-old son, Paul, with the Duchenne strain of the disease inspired Pettavino to champion this worthy cause; Paul succumbed to the condition in 2016 at age 21.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently worthy 70 million euros since its inception), the exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces. This year, the auction featured 53 unique lots crafted by 54 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which go under the gavel in Geneva on 6 November. Here, we highlight seven particular standouts.

F.P. Journe FCC Blue (CHF 4.5 million)

First to the table is F.P. Journe’s unusual FCC Blue, inspired by a conversation with famed US director Francis Ford Coppola, who once asked the watchmaker if it would be possible to tell time using a literal human hand. Seven years later, a mechanical marvel with an automaton-powered blue hand taking place of pride on its open-worked fascia, was born. Each of the five fingers extend or retract to display the hours, while minutes are relayed via a peripheral disc.

David Candaux D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique (CHF 150,000)

Another collaborative effort takes the form of the D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique. The joint brainchild of watchmaker David Candaux and contemporary artist Mikki Saturno, this titanium timepiece features a purple bi-planar flying tourbillon at the top of its dazzling dial. The jewel in its crown, however, is undoubtedly the glorious artwork that covers the rest of its face – a miniature design wholly developed and hand-painted by Saturno himself. Interestingly, whether viewed from the front or the rear, the DC7 is among those rare watches that are perfectly symmetrical along the vertical axis.

Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition (CHF 320,000)

A similarly artistic dial graces the Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition by Swiss watchmaker Krayon – in this instance, inspired by Impression, Sunrise by noted impressionist painter Claude Monet, albeit in a mosaic style. Underneath the hood beats a hand-wound prototype calibre C030 movement, and in an impressive engineering feat, the 39mm stainless-steel creation can even be adjusted to calculate the sunrise and sunset times of the winning bidder’s chosen locale.

Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch (CHF 200,000)

Yet another multihued creation is on offer from Jacquet Droz – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch. Rather than comprising a single piece of enamel, its kaleidoscopic plique-à-jour dial is actually a composite of multiple differently coloured and shaped cells, all held in place by gold wire cloisons. Housed in an 18K red-gold case, its Jacquet Droz 2625SQ self-winding movement is enticingly visible through its caseback.

Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch (CHF 480,000)

Taking the rainbow motif to new heights is the Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch by Zenith. Housing an El Primero 9020 movement, rainbow PVD coats its bridges and watch hands, and the hour markers are burnished in a special rainbow varnish. This unique 46mm sapphire-crystal creation also comes with a special Felipe Pantone watch box autographed by the artist.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch (CHF 620,000)

Taking inspiration from the fauna of Planet Earth, meanwhile, is independent label MB&F’s HM10 Panda Only Watch, which, as its name implies, boasts a case contoured to mimic the bamboo-eating mammal. Powered by an in-house HM10 calibre movement, the two black eyes are inhabited by aluminium time-displays, while the teeth indicate the power reserve. Its top is coated with black and white lacquer reminiscent of the animal’s fur coat, while a matching strap completes its panda appeal.

Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype (CHF 2.1 million)

Finally, there’s Richard Mille’s RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype. Named after the eponymous F1 racing driver, the timepiece proudly sports his red and white colours, as evidenced by the white and red Quartz TPT case, a proprietary composite materials that is particularly shock resistant. Fitted with a calibre CRMA7 movement and its lightest straps ever, this innovative watch packs a visual punch without ever weighing down the wrist.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction)

Fairer Secs: Making time for the ladies with these femme-focused timepieces

In the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were something an afterthought, largely uninspired designs with only the most basic of functions. They were, indeed, poor relations to the ever-more stunning, complex and precise pieces that constituted chap-oriented chronometers. This was, of course, because the majority of horological houses were solely preoccupied with churning out macho statement timepieces in the belief that men would always be the primary purchasers of high-end horological items.

That, of course, has all changed over the course of the last 10 years, with the more elegant lady watch-loving collectors now accounting for a significant proportion of international timepiece sales. As a consequence, the watchmaking industry has risen to the challenge of reinventing the outdated design aesthetics and mechanics that once characterised the watches-for-women sector. Indeed, gone are the days when petite, nondescript wrist accessories were deemed to suffice. In their place is a new generation of intricate, chronologically advanced mechanisms that are more than a match for their male counterparts in terms of stature. Of these, we’d recommend six femme-focused timepieces for your particular perusal…

Femme-focused timepieces - Breguet Marine Dame 9518 — Breguet Marine Dame 9518

First up is Breguet, with its all-new Marine Dame 9518 encapsulating a cool aquatic aesthetic. This is largely thanks to its beautifully hand-guillochéd wave-motif blue mother-of-pearl dial, fetchingly enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. Under the hood, the balance spring, escape wheel and lever have been ably crafted from ultra-lightweight silicon, with the self-winding Calibre 591A movement – visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback – extending to powering a date indicator. Water resistant to 50m, blue leather straps complete its memorably maritime appeal.

Femme-focused timepieces - IWC Portofino Automatic 34 — IWC Portofino Automatic 34

Another unusual design comes courtesy of renowned Swiss watchmaker IWC in the form of its defiantly distinct Portofino Automatic 34. Boasting an 18K 5N gold case ringed with 92 diamonds, its dial is all entrancingly silver-plated and fetchingly embossed, bestowing upon it a glamorously glittering sheen. Powering this 34mm style icon is a Calibre 35100 movement, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. Four other fresh-out-of-the-workshop models of the Portofino 34 are also available, all with an easy quick strap change system, giving wearers the option of matching a different look to their particular mood.

Femme-focused timepieces - Zenith Elite Moonphase — Zenith Elite Moonphase

Looking more aloft for inspiration, meanwhile, is Swiss manufacturer Zenith’s Elite Moonphase. With its silvery white dial burnished with a sunray-patterned motif, it comes neatly punctuated with a small running seconds hand at the nine o’clock slot. Housed in a slimly-elegant rose gold case and ringed with a diamond-set bezel, the jewel in its particular crown is undoubtedly its blue six-o’clock-set moonphase indicator.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto — Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto

In a departure from the usual circular case scenario, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a rectangular frame for its new Reverso One Duetto. Taking its inspiration from an earlier ’30s innovation, this red-hued hour-tracker was conceived with flexibility very much in mind. Its front face, restrained yet refined, is just about perfect for everyday wear, while its reverse side is all opulent elegance, led by a shimmering burgundy lacquered dial with the hour markers stretching outwards sunray-style.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart — Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart

Similarly opting for a bold scarlet style is the delicate Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart, the latest offering from Jaquet Droz. Available in a limited edition of just 28, it measures a mere 25mm in diameter, but its diminutive dimensions are more than made up for by the intricacies of its design. Ringed with diamonds and set in a rose gold case, this alluring piece of rococo wrist enhancement is crafted in the brand’s iconic figure-eight form. Its lower half is all minimal grace, with its ruby heart dial featuring solely hour and minute hands. The upper segment, by contrast, is all whimsical flourish, while housing a ruby ball bearing that swivels freely in line with any movement of the wrist.

Femme-focused timepieces - Panthère de Cartier Watch — Panthère de Cartier Watch

In the coveted number six slot on our list of femme-focused timepieces comes one of the most outré lady’s timepiece currently on offer – Cartier’s all-new Panthère de Cartier Watch, a tribute to the marque’s much-feted twin expertise in fashioning fine jewellery and watchmaking. The watch proper – a 22mm wide yellow gold case with a gem-set bezel and diamond hour marker – comes mounted with the inevitable bejewelled panther, an iconic Cartier emblem since 1914. Arresting, attention-grabbing and unabashedly conspicuous, it stands as an apt homage to the indomitable spirit of womankind.

One-of-a-kind watches to hit Only Watch Charity Auction 2019

The Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute horology enthusiasts the world over. Now in its eight iteration, the biennial event was first founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charitable organisation, the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM), which combats the rare Duchenne strain of the disease. It was the death of Pettavino’s son, Paul, who tragically succumbed to the condition at just 21, that inspired him to take up this worthy cause.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch Charity Auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently-worthy 40 million Swiss francs since its inception), this exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces from the world’s best-loved brands. This year, the auction will feature 50 unique lots crafted by 52 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which are set to go under the gavel in Geneva from 7 to 9 November. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding designs on offer.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked — Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked

First up is luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet with a unique white and rose gold Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked. This dual-tone interpretation of the model serves to heighten the architectural complexity and geometric shapes of the Code 11.59 layered case. Its central case, crafted from 18K rose gold and shaped in the brand’s iconic octagonal figure, sits sandwiched between an ultra-slim bezel, lugs and caseback, all burnished in a contrasting white gold hue. Its open-worked dial, meanwhile, provides an easy aperture through which to view the hand-wound skeletonised movement underneath.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Automatic — Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic

Another two-toned submission is an arresting blue and rose gold version of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic. While it’s a debut colour combination for the brand, this particular model already holds the distinction of being one of the world’s thinnest mechanical watches with a thickness of just 4.3mm. Indeed, it took the marque three years to bring this super-slim, open-worked design to life, with its watchmakers ultimately fashioning its Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P movement and case as one cohesive structure.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Jaquet Droz's Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch — Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch

For its part, Swiss haute horology label Jaquet Droz has also donated a superbly skeletonised watch to the charitable auction – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic for Only Watch. Taking pride of place on its fascia is a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, both overlapping to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. This unique rendition, though, sees its rail-track, hands and strap all furbished in a vibrant red in honour of the flag of Monaco, where AMM is headquartered.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Montblanc's 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019 — Montblanc’s 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019

Not to be outdone, Montblanc has produced the stunning blue-on-titanium 1858 Split Second Chronograph Only Watch 2019. The deep azure dial, lovingly crafted from blue agate, a hard semiprecious stone, stands in sharp contrast to the white-and-red double chronograph scale that rings it. Inspired by the marque’s ’30s-era military-style timepieces, a telemeter encircles its outer reaches, while a snail-shaped tachymeter dominates its central fascia. Powering the entire 44mm design is the hand-wound, hand-finished MB M16.31 movement, enticingly visible through its transparent caseback.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Zenith's El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch — Zenith’s El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch

Meanwhile, to mark the 50th anniversary of its iconic 1969 El Primero, Zenith has served up the El Primero A386 Revival for Only Watch. A millimetre-accurate reproduction of the original, the only updates to its 37mm fascia are the use of sapphire crystal instead of acrylic and a new transparent caseback. As part of its celebrations, Zenith is further offering its lucky buyer a series of luxurious experiences, including a VIP visit to its Le Locle Manufacture, a lifetime warrantee and even an invitation to be a guest at the El Primero 50th Anniversary closing event in Geneva.

Only Watch Charity Auction 2019 - Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 — Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010

Perhaps the most mechanically intricate design at the 2019 Only Watch Charity Auction, though, comes courtesy of Patek Philippe, the masterful marque behind some of the world’s most cutting-edge timepieces. Its submission this year, the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010, is a delightful stainless steel interpretation of the first modern grand-sonnerie in its current collection. It boasts a staggering 20 complications in all, including two world firsts – an acoustic alarm chiming at a preselected time, and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. Its patented reversible dual-dial case, meanwhile, has been burnished alternately in a striking black ebony and an unusual salmon pink hue. From start to finish, this expansively-acreaged statement timepiece stands as a tribute to the finest haute horological arts.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction

Bare-faced Chic: Tracking the rise of the irresistible skeleton dial

As any watch enthusiast will only too willingly inform you, the movement of a high-end timepiece represents the very pinnacle of precision engineering, with each one painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate pieces to produce something that is far greater than the sum of its many parts. For much of horological history, however, these mechanical wonders have been secreted away, stashed beneath the dazzling dials designed to ensure that the true engine room is seldom glimpsed by the eyes of the uninitiated.

Thankfully, the last few decades have gone some way towards remedying this, largely on account of the rise of the temptingly transparent skeleton dial. Here, the emphasis is on leaving the watch’s fascia wholly unadorned and see-through on one or both sides, allowing the inner workings of these high-end chronograms to be easily – and continually – observed. While many of the manifestations of this particular trend are undeniably marvellous, seven of the current crop are particularly memorable…

Skeleton dial watches - Breguet's Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 — Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

First up is Breguet, the innovative Swiss marque credited with creating the world’s first tourbillon, which recently unveiled the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. Here, the open-worked fascia acts to emphasise the super-slim 3mm-thick Calibre 581 movement powering its new self-winding tourbillon, one that is said to be 50 percent lighter than any of its predecessors. Housed in a fluted rose gold case, this wonderfully slim watch’s carriage weighs in at just 0.29g.

Skeleton dial watches - Piaget's Emperador Coussin 1270S — Piaget’s Emperador Coussin 1270S

Elegant super-slim design is also the stock in trade of Piaget, as exemplified by the wafer-thin skeletonised lines of its tourbillon-incorporating Emperador Coussin 1270S. Measuring just 5.05mm, its Calibre 1270S movement was custom-built to fit its cushion-shaped white gold case. Here, the skeleton dial reveals the inner workings of its motor and tourbillon, as well as an off-centre four o’clock hour-and-minute subdial.

Skeleton dial watches - Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold — Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold

A more minimalist translucent offering comes courtesy of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold, which once again sports the brand’s classic black-on-rose-gold motif. Pride of place on its fascia goes to a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds subdial at six o’clock, both of which overlap to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. Its transparent caseback, meanwhile, facilitates a fascinating view of the double barrels that house its 68-hour power reserve.

Skeleton dial watches - Hublot's Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue — Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue

Eschewing classic contours for a more athletic approach is Hublot, with this affectation made manifest in its recently-unveiled Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue. Released in a limited edition of just 100, this aggressively-styled chronogram is the marque’s first barrel-shaped model to incorporate blue occlusioned carbon fibre. With its spacious appearance belying its intricate construction, its knowing design provides an unhindered view of its debutante HUB6020 movement. The tourbillon proper, all the while, takes place of pride at six o’clock, while a five-day power reserve indicator can be found at eight o’clock.

Skeleton dial watches - Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin — Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin

Another bold carbon fibre creation is on offer from Ulysse Nardin in the unmistakable form of the Skeleton X Magma. Burnished in an eye-catching lava red, the process of combining carbon fibre with red, marbled epoxy resin is said to make each case quite unique. The skeleton dial here comes punctuated with a rectangle motif – anchored on the left and right by Roman numeral hour markers – through which its UN-371 movement is immediately discernible.

Skeleton dial watches - Zenith’s Defy Inventor — Zenith’s Defy Inventor

Those of an avant-garde disposition, meanwhile, should ensure they get to properly appraise Zenith’s Defy Inventor. Housed in a titanium case that incorporates a bezel fashioned from meteorite-derived Aeronith, the world’s lightest titanium-composite, the pièce de résistance of its open-work design is undoubtedly the Zenith Oscillato. A groundbreaking single silicon component, this comprises an all-in-one balance wheel, balance spring and lever, which is said to grant the movement unprecedented precision and stability. Regrettably, just 10 pieces of this cutting-edge chronogram are destined to ever see the light of day.

Skeleton dial watches - Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom — Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom

Arguably, superiority in the skeleton dial stakes this time around, though, must be accorded to Armin Strom, the independent Swiss maison credited with creating the world’s first-ever such watch. Intriguingly, its latest offering – the Dual Time Resonance Sapphire – features not one but two separate movements, each tethered to a different time zone, as well as the brand’s revolutionary Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects and synchronises the two mechanisms, ensuring chronographic precision is never compromised. Complete with a 24-hour indicator at six o’clock, its outsized all-sapphire-crystal case facilitates 360-degree observation of the outré movement within – a fitting evolution of the skeleton-dial wristwatch the marque pioneered more than 40 years ago.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Oversized Watches: Huge horology is now doing the rounds big time…

It’s no secret that, by and large, the world of haute horology is inherently conservative, strictly adhering to watchmaking traditions laid down generations ago. In some cases, this has even seen classic complications – step forward the tourbillon – prized long after they have become somewhat surplus to requirements. There is, however, one aspect of watchmaking that continues to evolve, one driven by both changing tastes and technology – the actual dimensions of a desirable timepiece.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the ever-dynamic wristwatch sector. When first introduced post-WWI for mass public consumption, the average men’s dial ranged from 28mm to 32mm in diameter. By the ’90s, 38mm was the norm. Today, 42mm is pretty much the standard, with only those above 45mm seen as oversized watches. While historically more petite, ladies’ watches have undergone a similar expansion and, for those keen to pick a premium plus-size model, thankfully, there are several prime specimens available.

With its eye firmly on distinctly feminine design, Bulgari has deftly fused the worlds of high-end jewellery and luxury watchmaking in the Serpenti Tubogas. Shaped to recall the coils of the eponymous creature that inspired it, its dominant 35mm curved-steel dial sits atop the serpent’s head – replete with a dazzling diamond-studded bezel and fascia – while its single-spiral steel-and-rose gold body bracelet extends down to wrap around the forearm.

Similarly taking the small-watch-expanded-setting approach is Cartier, whose all-new extra-large Panthère de Cartier Manchette model is equal parts jewellery cuff and chronometer. While the quartz movement is housed in a delicate 22mm x 19mm rose gold case, the watch itself is surrounded by a far chunkier 41mm rose gold-black lacquer linked bracelet. Available in a strictly limited edition of 50, it’s the perfect wrist adornment for any fashionable foray.

For discerning gentlemen collectors, meanwhile, there’s a veritable treasure trove of attention-seizing oversized watches on offer. First up is Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver, the Swiss marque’s inaugural silver-cased chronogram. Boasting a 45mm burnished silver dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, this pilot watch’s metal sheet-patterned fascia and rugged look is a knowing homage to the aviation aesthetics of a bygone age.

Another outré, outsized pilot’s watch comes courtesy of IWC, with its limited-edition 46mm Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire revealing a keen understanding of just what today’s aviators actually require. Fitted with an in-house Calibre 52615 movement, a perpetual calendar and a double moon display – allowing for accurate lunar positioning in both the northern and southern hemispheres – this eye-catching olive-bronze creation is a more-than-fitting tribute to the WWII British fighter plane that inspired it.

Eschewing high-altitude adventure in favour of deep-sea discovery, though, is Panerai with its Submersible Mike Horn Edition – 47mm. Inspired by the exploits of Mike Horn, the Swiss-South African explorer, in addition to being notably robust and water-resistant up to a depth of 300m, this wide and wonderful watch is also hugely eco-friendly. Its case, its crown, its bezel and the caseback all come crafted in the brand’s proprietary recycled EcoTitanium, while its reassuringly sturdy straps are fashioned from repurposed Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET).

Not to be outdone, Roger Dubuis sought inspiration from wintry Swedish landscapes for its gigantically-proportioned, limited-edition-of-eight, 47mm Excalibur Pirelli Ice Zero 2. Created in partnership with Pirelli, the top tyre folk, it has been designed to embody the hardy qualities required to endure extreme cold. For this particular outing, the marque’s iconic skeletonised dial comes punctuated with a brilliant double flying tourbillon, with its Calibre RD105SQ movement perceivable beneath, while its straps reference the steel nail-studded design of Pirelli’s Ice Zero tyres.

The undoubted governor of the gargantuan, the true master of oversized watches – this time round at least – is mighty MB&F, the much-admired architect of all things avant-garde and, in particular, the bold creator of the Horological Machine No.6 Final Edition. A formidable 52mm in diameter, this time-telling titan boasts a recherché rectangular biomorphic case fitted with five 360-degree spheres, with the bottom two marking hours and minutes, while taking pride of place in the middle is an intricate flying tourbillon.

Comprising 475 individual parts and 68 gemstones, only eight of these final iterations of this much-loved series are ever destined to see the light of day. Essentially, it’s a simply colossal, carefully curated and cunningly-crafted collectors’ item and a prime example of oversized watches – but, then, aren’t they all?

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Masters of Time X: Bringing in the biggest brands to the 10th anniversary

It was just 10 years ago that keen watch watchers worldwide were thrilled by the very first iteration of Masters of Time, a finely curated collection of highend timepieces that all but took over Macau for the weekend. For 2018, rechristened “Masters of Time X” in honour of its momentous anniversary, it was billed as being bigger and better than ever, with DFS – the Hong Kong-headquartered luxury travel retailer behind the show – promising something truly spectacular.

From the off, it was obviously a promise they were determined to keep. The sheer scale of the opening ceremony – complete with multisensory dining, body bending acrobatics, arts masterclasses and fine wine tastings – ensured no attendee walked away unawed before even a single timepiece took its first public bow. That’s not to say that, for even one precise and everso-accurately measured minute, the organisers had forgotten what it was all about, with the welcoming hijinks only a prelude to the mesmerising main course of all the very best in haute horology that was to follow.

Keeping to their avowed intent of outdoing all that had come before, this year, this most singular of showcases featured more than 450 fine distillations of the master watchmaker’s craft, with 30 brands in all represented.

While it is surely folly to single out just a few particular merit-worthy items from amid such illustrious company, there were seven especially splendid timepieces that demanded further coverage. Starting off with the traditional, for lovers of classical craftsmanship, IWC’s marvellously minimalist Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” was clearly created with you in mind.

Boasting a dazzling blue dial punctuated solely by jumping hours and minute displays (and a small hacking seconds sub-dial), the design is a clear homage to Josef Pallweber, the Austrian watchmaker who created this then-groundbreaking layout in pocket watch form back in 1883. Mounted on elegant black alligator leather straps and limited to just 500 pieces, this 45mm timepiece is sure to appeal to every gentlemanly collector.

Should you be a lady looking for an equally classical chronogram, the Altiplano-Piaget Rose has all but got your name on. The latest addition to Piaget’s super-slim Altiplano Collection, it’s blessed with an ultra-thin, hand-wound calibre 430P movement, all delightfully housed in a 38mm white gold case. A bejewelled pink Yves Piaget Rose – replete with 80 shimmering petals on a wood marquetry – takes centre stage on its mother-of pearl dial, a feature fetchingly ringed with a further 78 diamonds, gifting the piece the brand’s trademark haute joaillerie flourish.

Staying minimalist, but upping the bold and manly quotient, comes the latest offering from Ulysse Nardin – the Freak Vision Red. The first automatic watch to be ushered into the Freak Collection, it sports a superlight silicium balance wheel complete with nickel mass elements. An edition produced exclusively for Masters of Time attendees, its blue-dominant dial is further burnished with arrow-shaped minute and hour hands – all accented with DFS’ signature red hue – mounted on the escapement wheel in true tourbillon style.

Another edition created solely for this anniversary iteration of Masters of Time was Hublot’s simply iridescent Spirit of the Big Bang Sapphire Rainbow. Eschewing the conventional for the outré, its knowingly avant-garde design featured an open-worked skeletonised dial, revealing the marvels of its HUB4700 movement at even the most cursory of glances.

Never one to be outdone, a customised take on the Excalibur 42mm – the pride of the house of Roger Dubuis – also came complete with several bespoke touches, each a knowing nod to the event’s decennial incarnation. Most strikingly, its diamond-pavéd dial and bezel serve to enhance the stylised Roman numerals on its gem-studded fascia. In a tip of the cap to DFS, the 10 o’clock hour marker and the alligator leather straps of this automatic self-winding watch both showcase its now-unmistakable red accent.

Among the other craftily customised chronometers with a duly celebratory theme was Zenith’s Chronomaster DFS MOT X by Bamford Watch Department. Here, the Swiss marque’s Chronomaster had been customised by a London-based watch personalisation specialist, the dutifully namechecked Bamford Watch Department. With an El Primero Calibre 400 movement concealed within its stainless-steel case, this rare El Primero column-wheel chronograph is said to deliver a movement frequency of 36,000VpH – or, in layman’s terms, it can time an event to one-tenth of a second – making this the perfect watch for the time and motion obsessive in your household.

Even against such gallant and grand competition, though, it would be decidedly contrary not to honour the event’s true stand-out – Franck Muller’s Vanguard Crazy Hours DFS Exclusive (Hero Piece). Its appropriately-entitled diamond studded design features quirky non-sequential numbers – with the 10 o’clock hour marker highlighted once again – and the bold red of DFS emblazoned across its Vanguard bezel and leather strap stitching. With only five such watches ever set to be produced, limited special editions don’t get anymore limited. Or any more special.

Text: Bailey Atkinson and Tenzing Thondup

Nautical Timepieces: Marine-inspired watches for the seafaring collectors

Any contemporary haute horology enthusiast setting off for a spot of seafaring adventure is pretty much spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting the right watch to accompany them on their voyages. Indeed, whether you are looking for a current favourite, something a bit more new wave or a watch with hidden depths from established marques, you won’t be disappointed by these newest nautical timepieces.

With its long and storied history of producing first-class sailing watches, it is only sensible to make Rolex your first port of call. In particular, it is worth seeking out one of the venerable watchmaker’s more recent additions to its nautical range – the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II.

*Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II*

From the outset, there’s no mistaking its bold maritime allegiance, grandly fore-fronted in both its ocean-blue Activated Ring Command bezel and its aquamarine small seconds dial. It even boasts the marque’s first-ever programmable countdown (complete with a mechanical memory), which neatly rings the small seconds dial.

*Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo Edition*

Another standout amongst today’s nautical timepieces is Zenith’s all-new Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo. Taking its name from the beautiful North Sardinian luxury resort, this is a watch redolent with azure, translucent oceanic glory. Housed in a 44mm titanium case, it comes with a translucent white skeletonised dial and a fetching blue and white power reserve indicator. Released in a limited edition of just 25, if you don’t dive straight in, it will almost certainly be too late.

*Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”*

Omega has embraced its inner seafarer, bestowing a distinctly rugged and ready look on its new Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”, a celebratory model marking its longstanding role as official timekeeper to the Volvo Ocean Race. Specially constructed to withstand extreme ocean conditions, it boasts stark black straps, a ceramic casebody and an arresting red rubber / Liquidmetal bezel. Black ceramic dials also highlight each watch’s unique limited edition number – as if their look wasn’t exclusive enough.

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol-d'Or Mirabaud 2018 — *Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018*

Another sporty timepiece suitable for the most macho of mariners is Hublot’s Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018. Eschewing traditional gold or steel on its designer dial, the watchmaker has opted instead for a startling black carbon fibre fascia, ably counterpointed by an innovative blue rubber-carbon fibre strap design. An apt celebration of the 80th edition of the Lake Geneva-based Bol d’Or Mirabaud – the world’s largest inland lake regatta – the watch is available in a limited edition of just 80.

*Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady Automatic Calibre 9*

More marine-minded mademoiselles, meanwhile, may be tempted by TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer Lady. While the marque’s DNA is more than apparent in the watch’s 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel and stainless-steel straps, a touch of novelty is evident in its white SuperLuminova-coated hands and hour markers, an embellishment that sees them glow whenever submerged.

Ulysse Nardin – a brand long-known to favour the more outré approach to haute horology – may tempt avant garde explorers with its aptly-named Freak Out of the Blue. Dispensing with the traditional crown in favour of a more svelte, open-worked fascia, anchor-shaped hands and an eye-catching ‘flying carousel’ tourbillon complete its look. Lest its coastline-eschewing credential be in any doubt, it even comes with sailcloth straps as standard.

Clearly not willing to leave the singular approach to nautical timepieces entirely to Ulysses Nardin, Corum’s marine-themed Admiral 45 Squelette embraces the naked, no-dial look in the marque’s own unique style. The latest addition to the Admiral collection, a range with a half-century heritage, the turquoise, yellow or red hues that accent the varied versions of this latest model bestow upon it a distinctly playful ambience.

With the movements of time and tide inextricably bound together in the human psyche, there’s an almost primordial joy to be had in the very finest examples of haute horology that so beguilingly marry the two. Fortunately, few of the world’s finest watchmakers are immune to the allure of such a union, ensuring that precision nautical timepieces are wholly unlikely to ever sink without trace.

Text: Tenzing Thondup