Beautiful Burgundy: Showing both complexity and finesse, Bourgogne wines are among the world’s most coveted

Burgundy is one of the most prosperous regions of France, rich in culture, history and gastronomical delights. It is home to world-renowned wines that have soared in price and desirability over recent decades and particularly in the past two years. Pinot Noir (for reds) and Chardonnay (for whites) are the main grape varieties, though others are permitted.

The Bourgogne area comprises a patchwork quilt of myriad different terroirs, appellations and styles. According to George Lacey, Director and Head of Wine at Sotheby’s, Asia, this complexity previously put off consumers whose drinking experiences could be so variable from one producer or village to the next – but times have changed. “Collectors turned to Burgundy seeking elegance, finesse, a sense of individuality and precision, and discovered that the region could provide ethereal wines that show the epitome of these characteristics in spades,” he says.

Scarcity value

The vast range of styles and expressions is down to the great number of small, family-owned domaines, producing microscopic quantities of wine from very low-yielding vines.

As Lacey explains, this small supply then drives up the scarcity value of its wines and has caused a rapid ascent in prices of Burgundy wine. He notes: “As with so many luxury commodities, the harder Burgundy has become to find, the more people want to find it!”

Sense of place

Lacey says Burgundy has been at the forefront of winemaking innovation and experimentation and historic producers are located almost side by side with some of today’s most boundary-pushing, next-generation experimental vignerons. He believes Burgundy has the perfect climatic conditions for the ‘capricious’ Pinot Noir grape to flourish. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is much easier to grow. Expressing itself in an enormous range of styles, this varietal is an incredible vector for the romantic notion of ‘terroir’, or a ‘sense of place’.

Fantastic individuality

Picking a favourite wine is almost impossible for Lacey. “To generalise, the reds are often characterised by beautifully bright, fresh red fruit and floral aromas becoming more savoury as they age with softer, dried petal and ‘sousbois’ [undergrowth] flavours coming to the fore. For the whites, Chardonnay expresses a huge variety of styles within the region from rich, unctuous, nutty and buttery Meursault to steely, mineral and linear Chablis, and everything in between,” he says

“If I had to choose a favourite, then for whites it would be majestic examples of mature 20-year-plus Raveneau Les Clos or Coche-Dury’s Meursault – some of the greatest examples of Chardonnay in the world. For reds, it would have to be the great Musigny vineyard from either Domaine Mugnier or Leroy. These encounters are becoming ever rarer, but I have had some of my most magical drinking experiences with them – not just for Burgundy but any wine worldwide.”

Compelling paradox

“For me, what makes the very best Burgundy so magical is their ability to become what we call ‘paradox wines’,” says Lacey. “They have an ability to express both weightlessness and intensity, power and elegance, complexity and finesse.”

Alsace Class: Great whites and late-blooming sweet wines blaze a trail through the French region

Alsace in northeastern France has been officially recognised as an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wine region since 1962. It is home to the famous 170km Alsace Wine Route, a tourist hotspot that winds its way through the Vosges foothills and the Rhine plain, past colourful towns and villages and vineyards of Riesling and Gerwürztraminer. Alsace is noted for its dry and aromatic white wines, with these two grapes yielding many of its best.

Tristan Pommier, an expert sommelier who curates Clarence’s wine program, a restaurant in Central, says. “Alsace boasts a very dynamic and thriving wine scene that is renowned for its wide range of grape varietals, grand cru wines and terroir expressions,” he says.

Pommier spotlights several young Alsace winemakers who are now making their mark, in addition to established winemaking families with a long history in the region. The latter, including Zind Humbrecht, Valentin Zusslin and Josmeyer, can be found on Clarence’s wine list. Up-and-coming estates La Rogerie and La Grange de l’Oncle Charles are definitely worth a try and can also be poured at the restaurant.

Grand Cru diversity

Pommier believes Alsace has become one of the key winemaking regions in France due to its diverse array of grand cru wines. There are 51 vineyards classified as grand crus for their quality terroir and winemaking.

“In addition, Alsace offers a range of winemaking styles, from traditional to biodynamic, which allows for a wide variety of flavour profiles and wine types,” notes Pommier.

The dessert wines of Alsace, particularly the sweet ‘Vendange tardive’ or late-harvest wines, are highly regarded by connoisseurs. “One of the most unique aspects of Alsace’s winemaking industry is its production of sweet wines,” concurs Pommier. “Due to the semi-continental climate and great variety of soil types in Alsace, these wines have the remarkable ability to age gracefully over time, often improving in flavour and complexity as they mature.”

Youthful sensitivity

Clarence recently held a promotion of the region’s delights. “We thought it would be interesting to showcase the talents of promising young winemakers, such as the owners of La Grange de l’Oncle Charles, a couple who manage a 5.5-hectare vineyard that is co-planted with old, middle-aged and young vines that are regularly replaced to ensure they thrive in a diverse range of soils,” says Pommier.

Pommier also suggests why the wine is so appealing. “The winemakers take a sensitive approach to their craft, carefully considering the fruits, vines and ecosystem to produce elegant wines that possess their own unique subtle touch,” he says.

The tastes and aromas of these wines leave their mark: “One example is La Grange de l’Oncle Charles Mille Lieux, which is a blend of all 13 white grape varieties grown on various soils at the Domaine. After being fermented and aged for one year in barrels on lees, this wine is characterised by its lovely ripe stone fruit aromas, intense concentration and acidity, and a touch of salinity at the end of the palate.”

Cloudy Bay: A tete-a-tete on the New Zealand vineyard’s iconic wines

For centuries, the French regions of Bordeaux and then Burgundy dominated any discussion about the world’s best wines. However, the past few decades have seen something of a renaissance in New World vintages – a fact not lost on eager oenophiles looking to expand their horizons and their collections. Among the new crop of up-and-coming regions is New Zealand, with its crisp, flavoursome Sauvignon Blancs firmly leading the charge. Perhaps the most notable of these Kiwi vineyards is Cloudy Bay, located at the very tip of the nation’s South Island. We talk to Jim White, Technical Director of Cloudy Bay, to find out more…

What made you decide to move to New Zealand and join Cloudy Bay?

I was actually offered the role while working for the winery that started Cloudy Bay in 1985, Cape Mentelle in Margaret River. I’d visited Cloudy Bay a few years prior and fell in love with New Zealand then. It’s not every day that an opportunity arrives to be involved in grape growing and making wines at such an iconic winery as Cloudy Bay, so I jumped at the chance.

*Jim White, Technical Director of Cloudy Bay Vineyard*

What are some of the characteristics that set Cloudy Bay’s winemaking apart from its competitors?

We just try to make wines that speak of the soil, climate and people of our home in New Zealand, we strive for freshness, vibrant fruitiness and balance. The key to making our distinctive wines are in the vineyards, their terroirs and the detailed work that we do during the growing season. It’s what sets us apart from other New Zealand wineries, a fact that is particularly evident in our Sauvignon Blanc.

What would you say are the defining characteristics of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc?

The wine always has a core of citrus (limes, grapefruit), stone fruit (peach, nectarine) aromas and flavours with hints of passionfruit, the flavours explode in the mouth, and the finish is long and dry with refreshing acidity. In one word delicious. 2018 was the warmest season on record in Marlborough, meaning our earliest finish to harvest, only by one day. The weather conditions helped create a hugely aromatic Sauvignon Blanc with ripe flavours with intense, concentrated flavour.

Tell us a little bit about Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) and what it stands for.

AMW is a self-imposed quality standard covering grape varieties (100 percent Sauvignon Blanc), grape source (100 percent from Marlborough), vineyard yields and bottling in New Zealand to ensure consumers get the very best quality Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that the region is so famous for. It is an initiative of 45 of Marlborough’s quality focused producers who want to enhance the regions wine quality reputation.

Finally, what is your own personal favourite wine?

That’s a tricky one to answer as I love a diverse number of wines from around the world, as they say variety is the spice of life. If I had to choose one only to drink every day, it would be a toss-up between a great Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, from where, well anywhere really as long as it’s delicious!

Thank you.

Interview by: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Cloudy Bay