Blanc-Buster: UK-sourced Sauvignon Blanc sweetens the senses
Upon returning to the UK from Hong Kong, Fiona Shiner surprised many by opting out of her legal career in favour of a risky winemaking venture in the Cotswolds, a picturesque part of southwest England. More boldly still, she later opted to nurture Sauvignon Blanc, a grape varietal with little or no record of being successfully grown in the area.
It was a gamble that paid off. Indeed, her 2021 Sauvignon Blanc took both the highest score and the highest award in the Unoaked category at the most recent Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters event.
“News of the award triggered an amazing amount of interest in the wine. After two of the busiest weeks in our history, we have sold out of the 2021 vintage entirely,” says Shiner.
After leaving Hong Kong, she and her family settled in Woodchester Valley, an area of outstanding natural beauty set on steep limestone slopes. As a wine lover, she was more than aware that England was surprising many with its world-class sparkling wines and Bacchus was beginning to make a reputation for producing quality still-white wines. She wondered if the local land – poor grade arable – would support her own oenophile aspirations.
After conducting research into the area’s wine-making heritage, she discovered it had been home to vineyards as far back as the time of the Domesday Book (circa 1085 AD). As a result, the temptation for her to create a new vineyard far outweighed the lure of a return to the law and, so, she planted her first acre in 2007.
On the basis of her initial plantings in 2007- 2013, she quickly established that her vineyards were capable of producing good quality wine. In 2015, she then took the big plunge and planted 2,000 Sauvignon Blanc vines, a grape variety she was a particular fan of.
“The risk was that England is a very cool climate in viticulture terms and Sauvignon Blanc ripens later than a number of varietals, such as Bacchus, that we use for our still wines, so would it ripen fully in England?” says Shiner.
As it turned out, 2021 brought particular challenges. While the summer temperature was more or less average for England, heavy rain was widespread although Woodchester Valley vineyard escaped the worst. A warm, sunny spell throughout September and October, however, pretty much saved the day.
Outlining what she sees as underpinning her success, she says: “Sauvignon Blanc is an expressive variety which manifests itself in different ways. Our wine expresses classic cool climate Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavours. I also believe the limestone soils bring a vibrancy to the wine and add a bright acidity.”
For the 2021 vintage, the best description almost certainly came courtesy of the Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters judges. Summing up the wine, they concluded: “It starts with an intense gooseberry nose, building up to reveal undertones of ripe lemon. On the palate, there is a bright, taut acidity and a juicy mouthfeel. Very well-balanced, there’s just a hint of sweetness on the finish, which is long and textured. A very engaging wine and perfect for matching with asparagus or goat’s cheese.”
As a wine, Chianti is as essential to Italian cuisine as extra virgin olive oil. Indeed, there are few pleasures as distinct as a tart, spicy, herbaceous Chianti wine paired with a plate of sliced prosciutto (cured ham) or one of your favourite pasta dishes.
Once traditionally served in a basket-encase bottle, the Chianti is considered to be one of the best wines to be served with a meal. A blended red from the Chianti region of Tuscany, it is made primarily with a thin-skinned grape called Sangiovese, which is found only in this particular part of central Italy.
Known for its mouth-watering acidity and coarse tannin, the grape bestows a transparent ruby hue and flavours of black and red cherry. With such a savoury blend, the wine can be paired easily with food as its high acid level cuts through the richer fatty dishes and stands up well to tomato sauces. Other popular Chianti pairings include pizzas and such meaty fare as a well-seasoned steak.
In addition to the Sangiovese grape, Chianti may contain traces of other red grapes, notably Canaiolo and Colorino, as well as such white grapes as Trebbiano and Malvasia. It is, however, the Sangiovese grape that dominates while also being seen as the most authentic embodiment of the Chianti terroir.
As with many fine wines, Chianti is subject to many requirements and has spawned a number of variations. There are, for instance, several categories of Chianti that vary depending on how long it has been aged as well as in accordance with the precise sub-region of Tuscany it originated from.
In many ways, it is the ageing process that determines exactly how an individual Chianti might taste. For example, “Chianti” is aged for six months and has a young and tart taste, while “Superiore Chianti” is aged for a year and has a taste that is smoother and more acidic. “Riserva”, meanwhile, is aged for two years, and the “Gran Selezione” is aged for more than two years and is used in such top-of-the-range Chianti wines as “Chianti Classico”.
Chianti wine also has several sub-regions. The original is Chianti Classico. Each subregion or subzone has different minimum ageing requirements, which is said to be an indication of quality. Variations in soils and elevations; and proximity to the sea also give rise to the distinct flavours of a particular wine.
Colli Senesi: Aged for 6 months
Colline Pisane: Aged for 6 months
Montalbano: Aged for 6 months
Montespertoli: Aged for 9 months (minimum)
Classic: Aged for a year (minimum)
Rufina: Aged for a year (minimum)
With its highly acidic, tarty-juicy attributes, this ruby red wine with flavours of cherry and earth, Chianti is the ideal accompaniment for a diverse array of dishes. To fully appreciate this, though, it is highly recommended that you try it for yourself.
Wine & Investments: An interview with Auctioneer Simon Tam
Food lover, passionate scuba diving instructor, wine expert, Christie’s alumni, founder of Aeos Auctions – Simon Tam is a man of varied experiences and a wealth of knowledge. We caught up with the seasoned auctioneer to learn about his craft and relish in his lively character…
Was there one particular glass or moment that sparked your love of wine?
I come from a family of restaurateurs and grew up in our restaurants in Australia – good food, good wines, good company, laughter and conversations were the norm for me. I often thought to myself, ‘What an interesting industry to get into.’ My surroundings made me adventurous with food and wine. I love trying new tastes, and the sights, sounds and smell of a working kitchen have always fascinated me – they still somehow evoke the deepest part of my memories. When you’re surrounded by food and wine as a child, it leaves an impression.
Infamously, I not only tried wine for the first time at 13, but also spiked it with Coca-Cola! It was the early ’80s, and I happened to ‘borrow’ a bottle of 1961 Château Lafite from my mother’s cellar and had my first sip. I instantly loved the smell, though not so much the taste. The moment I added Coke, I knew it was going to be my life-long poison [laughs].
I was in high school when I first made wine. My friends and I had a pact that in the winter holidays we would teach skiing and in summer we’d make wine. That was a turning point for me, and I haven’t looked back; I think wine is the only thing I know.
How did your journey evolve from opening Hong Kong’s first wine school back in 1996 to founding Aeos Auctions last year?
Amazing. The wine industry is a melting pot of generous, kind, and funny people from different cultures and parts of the world. I’ve been very fortunate with mentors in my career and my decades of professional experience which have prepared me for running an auction house – it’s been a fulfilling, fun learning journey.
Tell us about your 10 years at Christie’s and how this shaped you today as an auctioneer?
[In 2010] I was the first Chinese appointed as the Head of Wine at Christie’s in Hong Kong. I started with the China market, which was growing rapidly in the fine-wine sector; it was a great honour to be heading the ever-expanding China team, and then my role grew to head wine for the whole of Asia.
As an organisation, Christie’s is amazing – the client service experience is second to none, people are passionate about their jobs, and there’s an incredible amount of knowledge and expertise in all departments. I am grateful for the rich learning environment I got to be in. I discovered that the business of auctions is exhilarating – it gave me butterflies each time the gavel came pounding down on the podium.
What are the best as well as the worst aspects of your profession?
The best aspects of the wine and auction industries are the people – the passion, the motivation that drives people to understand, taste and collect wine is exemplary. It doesn’t get mundane – no two days are the same; there’s always something new to learn and some of the best, most colourful and kindest people I’ve met in life are wine lovers.
The worst part, I would say, is an empty bottle [laughs]. But there’s always another one…
“There’s always something new to learn [in the wine industry] and some of the best, most colourful and kindest people I’ve met in life are wine lovers”
Any underrated wines which people should know about and appreciate?
Now, I am tasting and drinking a lot of New Zealand Pinot Noir – it’s one of my favourite grapes; Sauvignon Blanc may be New Zealand’s calling card, but the country has built a formidable reputation for handling this Burgundy grape remarkably well. Winemakers there have been mastering this fickle grape from more than 20 years, and I am absolutely smitten. The region’s cool climate gives an impressive and eclectic depth, purity, freshness, complexity and exoticness to the variety.
You’ve been in the industry for more than 30 years. Can you reveal the best business advice you’ve ever received?
I’ve been mentored by several people at different times in my career, and everyone had something valuable to say, but the advice that stood out for me was from my mother. She said, ‘Treat everyone the same way – a janitor or a CEO.’ That’s the most beautiful life lesson for me; when you are capable of doing anything in life, the least you can do is treat people with kindness. It has certainly helped me make a lot of genuine friends in and out of this industry.
Jacket, button-up shirt, pants and shoes by Brunello Cucinelli
What denotes a fantastic food and wine pairing?
Now we’re talking! I grew up in an environment of food, wine and laughter, but I took it ahead and decided to explore how Asian food pairs with wine – an Indian sabzi, Thai green curry, Vietnamese pho, chilli-laced noodles… Asian food runs a gamut of flavours, and the standard wine rules don’t always apply. Sometimes red meat and red wine work, sometimes white meat and white wines work, but the world is so much more diverse than that.
Some of my pairings are unorthodox – I love spicy food and instead of drowning out the chilli, I want the wine to exaggerate the drama. If I wanted my wine to dull or flatten the spice, I might as well have bland food, no? I also feel that the finest food and wines should be reserved for the highlight moments of your life, so for weekends and regular get-togethers find wines that fit your lifestyle and match the occasion.
“Some of my pairings are unorthodox – I love spicy food and instead of drowning out the chilli, I want the wine to exaggerate the drama”
Since you’re so passionate about food and wine, is opening a restaurant in the pipeline?
Hospitality is in my blood and I love the industry, but much to my parents’ disappointment, none of their three boys carried on the family business. I like the idea of having my own restaurant, but it’s way too much hard work – whenever everyone else is chilling and having their downtime, like Christmas or New Year, you’re working. I’ve lived that life and made a conscious decision to have some balance.
Tell us about your other passions.
That would be underwater photography and scuba diving. I am an accomplished scuba diving instructor but, wait for it, I can’t swim. I am extremely skilled in water; I know my buoyancy, but I just can’t swim long laps. Being underwater is paradise – it’s such a thrilling and a humbling experience; a true realisation that the universe is majestic and you’re a tiny, tiny part of it. Both underwater photography and scuba diving bring balance and a diverse perspective to my above-ground life.
What brings you happiness in life?
Laughing with my son. He’s 15-years-old, remarkably intelligent – I can’t take credit for that – has a very good sense of humour and is a gorgeous human being. I just love being with him, laughing with him, and we have a delicious time together.
Jacket, button-up shirt, pants and shoes by Brunello Cucinelli
What are your vices?
I can’t be left alone in a supermarket – I just can’t be trusted with a wallet and a shopping cart! I am an obsessive, impulsive kitchen and gadget shopper. I absolutely love to cook and entertain – in fact, I eat out only for work purposes – so I cannot do without a fully functional pantry. And when I’m in a supermarket, there’s always this urge to buy extra for dinner with friends, or an impromptu party at home…
If you could have any wine with any cuisine tonight, what would it be?
I would drink my own wine. I made it before leaving Australia and my godparents have kept a stock, pair it with my godmother’s Brien Stew and Suet pudding. It’s outrageously delicious! Reliving my childhood, my happiest days, while sipping my own wine – now that’s home for me.
Thank you.
(Interview by: Nikita Mishra; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Kes Lei Venue: Aeos Auctions Office)
Gin Genies: The rise and rise of Hong Kong craft gins
Applying for a license to distil gin in Hong Kong was almost unheard of a decade ago. Clearance to craft a distinctive local take on the ubiquitous juniper-flavoured spirit is almost like a mission to Mars. It involves an elaborate, arduous, and frustrating journey marked by mountains of red tape and approvals from more than seven government departments.
“High taxes were, and still are, another hurdle – while beer and wine have been duty-free since 2008, spirits above 30-percent alcohol content are taxed at a whopping 100-percent. Experimenting with a small batch of gin at home is also taxed and invites bureaucratic scrutiny.”
(Photo courtesy of Two Moons Distillery)
Stirring Up a Storm
Hong Kong had just two craft beer-makers in 2013. How the tide has shifted – ferociously, some might say. Today, the city is awash with the earthy, exotic output of some 35 artisan brewers and distillers. Gweilo Beer, which began in a spare bedroom, now operates from a US$5 million high-tech brewery in Fo Tan.
Amid a global ‘ginnaissance’ fuelled by millennials seeking a lighter, more aromatic craft drink of choice, it was only a matter of time before Hong Kong’s passionate gin lovers turned to distilling. Gweilo Gin arrived in 2019, distilled in London using the lead hop from their Pale Ale. Gin parties, gin parlours and ginvent calendars are taken very seriously here – gin is now glorious.
(Photo courtesy of NIP Distillery)
Types of Homegrown Gins
There are two distinct types of ‘local’ gin. Artisan brands such as Perfume Trees, Fragrant Harbour and Bauhinia are distilled abroad but infused with local botanicals to encapsulate the true essence of Hong Kong in a bottle. Then, there’s the gin of micro-distilleries based in the city – NIP and Two Moons, to name just the two – which offer unique, intrinsically local, and unconventional flavours of this resurgent spirit.
In an increasingly crowded market, we asked Dimple Yuen, founder of local micro-gin distillery Two Moons, on what makes a good gin: “Of course, taste is deeply personal; gin is an easy ‘starter drink’. Gin & Tonic is a lot of people’s first spirit. Premium gin has to sippable, not too harsh or rough on the palate and one that is a reminder of personal stories. With gin, it’s not only about the flavour or the aromas on your nose but the experience behind each sip.”
(Photo courtesy of Two Moons Distillery)
That said, there are some basic boxes which all go-to pours must tick – the gin should be smooth in a G&T, blend in a martini and be memorable enough to be sipped straight, again and again. If it is diversity and freshness you seek, then try those from copper stills on Hong Kong soil.
Like Two Moons, Jeremy Li and Nick Law of NIP received their liquor manufacturer’s licence in 2019. An abbreviation of ‘not important person’, their gin is a highly refined, deliciously nuanced spirit made of 21 botanicals that celebrates the grit, perseverance and spirit of the underdog. Since neither founder has a beverage background, the name they chose has greater resonance and the quality of their craft is even more remarkable.
Two Moons
(Photo courtesy of Two Moons Distillery)
Established by Dimple Yuen and Ivan Chang in 2019, Two Moons has made a splash in the craft gin space due to the care and precision shown in creating each 100-bottle batch by hand. The taste is young and experimental, so unless you are a die-hard traditionalist, get ready to be blown away by the youthful vitality of the founders who infuse the best botanicals into their premium spirit.
They are even forthcoming with their proprietary recipe. “We want to be completely transparent and share the flavours so you might enjoy them as we do,” says Yuen. If a spirit-tasting tour is up your alley, pop by their distillery for a feel of their bespoke flavours – Two Moons is the first local gin maker to accommodate visitors.
Toast to the new Year of the Tiger with the opulent Louis XIII
Ring in the Lunar New Year with a toast to welcome the 2022 Year of the Tiger. Serving as a symbol of wealth and happiness, what better way to raise your glass in celebration of a new beginning with close friends and family than with a luxurious imbibe, by the venerable Louis XIII.
Unparalleled in skill, knowledge and quality, the celebrated cognac maker puts out a sumptuous and deliciously tantalising cognac — a testament of the brand’s more than 140 years of experience in the mastery of producing one of the world’s most desirable and sought-after imbibes.
However, Louis XIII’s undeniably indelible flavours don’t come without the painstaking crafting process of each of its cognac. The distillery, since Louis XIII’s inception in 1874, have had generations of wine cellar experts curate a staggering array of eau de vie made from grapes grown in France’s Grande Champagne region.
These experts select from over 1, 200 different eau de vie – some younger, while some date back centuries – to create a harmonious blend of rich flavours. Over 250 disparate aromas are incorporated together, resulting in a vivid freshness of passion fruit and spice of ginger to rich notes of candied plumbs; giving the tipple its common comparison to drinking a sumptuous sip of perfume.
Even while the focus of carefully distilling decadent cognacs, equal attention is paid to the bottling process as well, ensuring the finished product is fit for the eponymous French king the brand takes its name from. As such, each bottle is lovingly handcrafted by artisans of one of two French royal crystal workshops – Baccarat or Saint Louis – transforming the containers into glorious works of art fit to present as the perfect gift for the Lunar New Year.
Call to join the LOUIS XIII Society: Hong Kong: +852 37109396
Macau: +853 2871 9699
Louis XIII: The perfect present for loved ones this gifting season
With the holidays just around the corner, there are more than a few reasons to raise your glasses to in celebration. While home-bound with close friends and loved ones this time of the year, a toast to togetherness and new beginnings comes complete with the perfect winter imbibe to share or gift this season, the venerable Louis XIII.
Boasting over 140 years of experience, the luxury cognac maker boasts unparalleled skill, knowledge and sheer savoir-fair in creating deliciously tantalising cognacs, that few can match up to — it’s small wonder, then, that it makes for the most desirable and sought-after of presents.
Making moments into memories, the root of the indelible flavours of Louis XIII lie in the painstaking brewing process each cognac undergoes. Since the master distiller’s founding in 1874, generations of wine cellar experts have amassed and curated a staggering array of eau de vie made from grapes grown in France’s Grande Champagne region.
To ensure the ultimate blend, these experts select from over 1,200 different eau de vie – some younger, some dating back centuries – to create a synergistic whole. Over 250 disparate aromas are instilled within, ranging from the vivid freshness of passion fruit and spice of ginger to rich notes of candied plumbs. Small wonder, then, that drinking Louis XIII has been compared to drinking perfume.
Even as great care has been taken in distilling the cognacs, equal attention is paid to their bottling to ensure the finished product is fit for the eponymous French king the brand takes its name from. As such, each bottle is lovingly handcrafted by artisans of one of two French royal crystal workshops – Baccarat or Saint Louis – transforming the containers into glorious works of art. Epitomising cognac-making both without and within, Louis XIII makes for the perfect present to gift that special someone this festive season.
Call to join the LOUIS XIII Society: Hong Kong: +852 37109396 Macau: +853 2871 9699
Organic, natural, biodynamic wines, explained
We dream of purity in a world where progress has left its toxic imprint on our land and food supply. Answering the call for nature, the organic movement has infiltrated our food, fashion, lifestyle choices and our choice of tipple, too. Indeed, there is a growing backlash against lab-grown yeast, grapes drenched in pesticides, and unwarranted tinkering that alter the natural taste of wines.
From New York to Hong Kong, bars and restaurants offering organic, biodynamic and natural wines are flourishing – they fit the urban millennial mindset of a holistic, authentic and environmentally enriching lifestyle. But what makes a wine tick all the right responsibly produced boxes these days?
Organic Origin
Organic wine is made from grapes grown and harvested without any kind of synthetic chemicals. This method allows nature to take its course and grapes to express their full flavour. Only indigenous yeast is used in fermentation, and there’s little to no preservatives.
Roughly 1,500 to 2,000 vintners adhere to organic practices. “According to industry research, consumption of organic wine will reach about one billion bottles by 2023,” says Matt Ayre, a wine advisor for Vivant, an interactive platform connecting responsible winemakers and imbibers. “That’s a huge jump from 400 million in 2013 – clearly, people want to know what’s in their glass.”
Biodynamic Diversity
Biodynamic wines stem from a certified holistic and experiential approach to farming that pushes the natural expression of grapes and minimises manipulation in winemaking. Much attention is paid to elevating biodiversity, crop rotation, thoughtful cultivation, harvesting and fermentation according to the astrological calendar. The mystical nature of biodynamic winemaking may raise eyebrows, but it is believed these efforts translate into richer soil, healthier grapes, and full-bodied, truer, more earthy wines.
Natural Beauty
The back-to-basics movement in winemaking has been fermenting since the ’70s. Much like midwives, these vintners are minimally involved and watch from the fringes.
There is no dependence on modern machines or manipulation in natural wines. It is manually crushed, and fermentation occurs artlessly with ambient yeast. The wines are not filtered, so might appear cloudy, and in the absence of additives, stability can be an issue. Nothing is added to the fruit, and nothing is taken away; taste ranges from experimental, hideous to ethereal.
Lack of Transparency
Natural wine is a vague term without any universal guidelines in place. Some naturalists add a modest amount of sulphite at the bottling stage, others completely avoid it, but none puts a permissible number on it. The vagueness of the concept and the fact that ‘natural’ is both a lifestyle and a food category has allowed these wines to become hip in a way organic and biodynamic wines have not.
With no legal principles in place for labelling, a vintner’s faith is indispensable – the wine can taste authentically superior, acidic, oxidised or plain cider, all in the name of ‘natural’. For proponents of a more sustainable way of life, organic, biodynamic and natural are not just wine buzzwords – they are essentials in creating a responsible yet rad identity in a world full of cookie-cutter chardonnays.
(Text: Nikita Mishra)
Champions of the Cape: Spotlighting South African Wines
You slink into a posh restaurant – nibbles arrive, conversations flow, no one has quit alcohol or gluten, and all is well with the world. You peruse the lengthy wine list, ponder, cudgel your brain, give up and, almost on autopilot, order a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.
There are more than a thousand varieties of wine, and while glorious, timeless creations are born in Italy and France, that doesn’t justify getting stuck in a wine rut. Personally, I find the innocuous task of navigating newer choices perplexing. If it weren’t for the man in the sharp suit (the sommelier) throwing me a recommendation, I’d stick to my tipple of choice. Frankly speaking, finding solutions to global warming over dinner seems simpler than unlocking a new wine spectrum.
The world of wine is equal parts enormous and confusing. Vitis vinifera, the most common species of grapevine, can thrive from the northern tip of Sweden to New Zealand’s South Island, spanning a number of countries in between – each region enhancing the flavour with its own diversity, individuality and complexity.
South African Dream
When wine loyalists become curious enough to branch out, South Africa is one exhilarating wine region they should raise a toast to. Regions in the cooler coastal belt around Cape Town – like Stellenbosch, Paarl and Constantia – underscore the belief that the country is destined to be the next big wine trend.
At the end of apartheid in the ’90s, the climate – both political and geographical – was ripe enough to re-ignite 350 years of viticulture history. South Africa re-entered the global winemaking market and made a splash. It is home to a plethora of prestigious wineries, but over the past couple of years, the industry has suffered challenges of biblical proportions, not just due to Covid-19.
Hamstrung Hemisphere
Even before the virus’ rampant spread, the local economy was already on crutches, battling a 30 percent unemployment rate and a national crisis of alcohol abuse. Pandemic-induced restrictions were a crippling blow to producers still finding their feet abroad.
In March 2020, the South African government left more than 300,000 employees dependent on the wine industry for their livelihood in the lurch by announcing an overnight lockdown and a blanket ban on domestic and international sales of alcohol. By then, the winemakers were up to their elbows in grape skins as the closure occurred at the peak of the annual harvest.
Exports were halted for five weeks and the domestic market shut down for over two months. The resumption of alcohol sales in June 2020 meant little given an endless cycle of prohibitions and abrupt closures that followed. Wine tourism, accounting for nearly 40 percent of the turnover of family-owned boutique wineries, came to a standstill. The toll on winemakers, both big and small, was immense, and this depression has continued into the second year. The industry body, Wines of South Africa, pegs collective losses at a massive US$417 million.
The silver lining in all this overarching gloom? The sheer beauty of South African wines: the characterful saline notes of the whites imparted by a stunning climate and terroir; the deep, deliciously dry reds; the authentic, unpretentious sweet Moscato – against all odds, winemakers in the country are producing gloriously complex wines that are worth tracking down.
Know Your Wines
A lot of innovative blending happens in South Africa. Prior to 2014, the white grapes Clairette and Muscat d’Alexandrie were traditionally used in brandy, but Clairette Blanche is proof that inspiration and technique can strike up delicately earthy, ethereal, fruity wines that boast an almost heady perfume.
Pinotage is uniquely South African. An interesting crossing of pinot noir and cinsaut, it’s the one that made them famous post-apartheid. Developed by a Stellenbosch professor in 1925, the blend tastes nothing like its parents and remains a favourite of wine lovers the world over.
Aiming for a big, boisterous wine or a lively crowd-pleaser? Try Kanonkop Pinotage. Sommelier-approved, it commands a modest price for its quality, plethora of ripe blackberries, black cherries and attractive minerality.
Thanks to the ingenuity of their boutique producers and an admirable perseverance amidst adversity, South African wines excel in variety, character and expression. Whether delicate, elegant or racy, they stand the test of time.
(Text: Nikita Mishra; Photo: Springbok Wines )
Cin Cin: Prosecco Rosé is a thing and here’s all the lowdown
Your favourite colour and your favourite drink have a baby. In the Instagram-fuelled, novelty-seeking world, the result has success written all over it.
Some wines are masterpieces of science, intuition and magic; others are feats of marketing and intelligent branding. Prosecco rosé drives the market in the second category.
As a rosé recruit and not a fan of pinkifying things, I had pre-conceived notions about this sparkly peachy drink. It came across a fussy middle child of the grape family. Not sophisticated enough to be red, not airy enough to be white. But the pandemic happened and it shook the drinking landscape. The tide shifted; cocktail culture flourished; wine-appreciation intensified. After the tumult that was 2020, the dawn of 2021 demanded a new drink – something celebratory, chilled and cheerful, a crowd-pleaser – Prosecco rosé ticked all the right boxes. The misunderstood offspring splashed onto the global drinking scene and affixed its crown. Bottomless brunches everywhere around the world just got an upgrade.
Lady In Pink
It’s hard to believe that pink Prosecco is a new thing.
Prosecco with its fruity sparkly profile has become enormously popular in the last decade. To explain “enormously popular”, in 2018 the drink which took the brunch world by rage, sold more bottles than Champagne for the first time in modern history. The growth has been unstoppable since then.
Rosé with its bright pastel, floral and moreish appeal is Instagram gold – it’s a day drink, one with a tang of the exotic, evoking long, boozy lunches, conjuring fantasies of yachts and posh beach holidays. No one sips Rosé in run down cafes or dreary office parties. It represents a very liberal, lavish, trust-fund lifestyle and who doesn’t pine for that.
Marry the two wines and it’s a marketing dream –it’s like selling the Champagne lifestyle on a Gatorade budget. But till October 2020, rosé and Prosecco were not allowed to mingle, that’s when the Prosecco DOC Consortium in Italy, updated its rules and officially allowed the two hottest drinks of the planet to merge. Prosecco rosé hit the bar shelves and ice buckets in January 2021.
There was no dearth of sparkling pink wines in the marke. In fact, more than half of Italy’s 350 Prosecco producers have unofficially been toying with the pink version for years but tight EU regulations meant that none could be labelled Prosecco, only white wines were allowed to bear the title. So, this is all very exciting for Prosecco fans.
Prosecco is a wine region in North-eastern Italy and the style of fizzy wine made from the Glera variety of grapes. The best produce comes from the traditional belt in the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene area and even though it’s not a patch on the chicness and complexity of Champagne (that would be an unfair comparison!), the finer varieties of Prosecco have a fresh briskness, lightness, a soft charm all it’s own.
The official decree mandates that true Pink Prosecco must maintain a strict production criteria –
It should be made from 85% white Glera’s variety of grapes, blended with a maximum of 10-15% of the red Pinot Noir grapes to give it that intensely beautiful salmon hue which patrons find irresistible.
The secondary fermentation process must take place by in a tank by the Charmat method for a minimum of 60 days to introduce carbonation (that’s twice the amount required for regular Prosecco).
The final product can only be Brut Nature (very dry) or Extra Dry (actually sweeter) styles and vintage-dated.
The Consortium suggests up to 30 million bottles be produced annually from the 2019 or the 2020 harvest, that means one in every 16 bottles of prosecco on the shelves will be rosé.
The alcohol content is a modest 11% – won’t make you feel guilty for opening a bottle for a Monday lunch or buying into that ‘Rosé All Day’ lexicon. Cin-cin!
Beyond Port: Dipping into Portugal’s formidable red wines
Port, the fortified wine, may be Portugal’s most famous alcoholic export, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that it’s the only one available. In fact, for a relatively small country, the range of red wines produced in this European nation is quite remarkable. If you want powerful red showstoppers, heading to the Douro Valley is your best bet. For rich, fruity styles, the Alentejo is a solid option, and those in search for softer reds with plenty of fresh acidity should peruse the offerings from Dão.
This breadth of grape varietals is, perhaps, unsurprising when you consider that the region has been producing wines for over four millennia. The Tartessians are believed to have cultivated the first vineyards along the Tagus river around 2,000 BC. When the Phoenicians reached the area, they brought with them grape varieties and winemaking techniques from the Middle East and Carthage.
The Douro in the north is Portugal’s flagship red-wine region, but while it is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, its fame has historically been due to it being the home of Port. Over the last two decades, however, the Douro’s red table wines found huge favour with discerning oenophiles across the globe – all without relying on the big-hitting red grape varietals like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah commonly favoured by illustrious French winemakers.
No, in the Douro you’ll find intense, characterful wines with an almost inky richness made from local varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. An excellent example is Vinhas do Sabor 2017 from Vale D. Maria – the recipient of a silver medal from the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) that year – which displays hefty black fruit and a hint of cedar.
Other regions in the country are also making their presence felt, however. There’s been a shift in recent years towards wine drinkers looking for more freshness and elegance, and few regions do this better than Dão, which boasts a dramatic landscape of granite mountains and pine forests.
In recent years, the global reception of this European nation’s vintages has experienced a staggering surge. Just in the US alone, the ten-month period between January and October 2020 saw sales volume increase by 17 percent, while market value also soared some 15.9 percent from the same time frame in 2019. The UK saw even more phenomenal growth, with a whopping increase of 28.4 percent in volume and 24 percent in market value, according to the country’s promotional body, ViniPortugal. If you’re eager to sample some of Portugal’s fine wines yourself, the following recommendations are a good place to start…
RED ALERT Vinhas do Sabor 2017, Vale D. Maria, Douro
A supersized wine with enormous fruit and a fantastically integrated massive tannic structure offset by wonderful acidity. Prune, black fruits and a whiff of cedar.
Quinta de S. Francisco 2017, Sanguinhal, Óbidos
Attractive sour cherry and wild strawberries with floral hints. The fresh, wonderfully delineated palate enjoys a long fine finish with a charming lead pencil and savoury fruit character.
Barca-Velha 2011, Casa Ferreirinha, Douro
Elegant and complex, with prominent spices such as pepper, balsamic notes, cedar and tobacco box, red fruits such as ripe plum, slate and high quality, well integrated wood.
