Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Perfectly encapsulating its tagline, “the future of Swiss watchmaking,” the pioneering horology brand Zenith has a rich history that has shaped its success today mainly due to the futuristic mindset that prevails among its watchmakers.

In fact, the idea for Zenith’s iconic Pilot line emerged back in the late 19th century, even before the first flight, with its founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s belief that humankind would reach the sky one day. With such an outlook and dedication to aviation, the Pilot line was created as one of the first watches for pilots.

Since then Zenith has continued to hold onto this heritage while simultaneously adapting to contemporary trends to launch a series of Pilot watches through the centuries.

Newly added to this line is the Pilot Automatic with two renditions – stainless steel and ceramic – released at the Watches and Wonders 2023. This newly-designed timepiece is complete with a rounded 40mm case with a black opaline dial with luminescent numbers using the Super-LumiNova technology, a flat-top bezel and an angular large-sized crown.

While the stainless steel version is vertically satin-brushed and comes with two interchangeable straps in brown calfskin leather and black cordura-effect rubber, the ceramic ones have a matte finish and are accompanied by a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The dial also has the words pilot engraved on it, a word that was trademarked by Zenith in 1904.

The most notable aspect of the new Pilot Automatic is the 6’o clock mark which is replaced by the date and has a bold white dash on top of it to mimic the artificial horizon instrument seen on aeroplanes thus showing off the horologist’s aviation spirit.

Beyond its physical aspects, the watch has a winding mechanism that uses an open and blackened oscillating weight similar to the artificial horizon instrument and boasts an El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement which gives the instrument its 60-hour power reserve when it is wound fully.

Another equally fascinating watch in the Pilot series is the newly-released chronograph timepiece Pilot Big Date Flyback which is embedded with a newly-developed version of the El Primero 3600 calibre, the El Primero 3652 calibre which is particularly made with the pilots’ requirements in mind by including two distinctive features – the big date and the flyback function.

With a dial that is slightly bigger than the Pilot Automatic – precisely 42.5mm, the brand dropped two versions of the Pilot Big Date Flyback also in stainless steel and ceramic. Its watch dial is an ode to the brand’s iconic El Primero Rainbow from 1997 with its bright orange minute and seconds hands and an oversized date display. Similar to the Pilot Automatic, the Big Date Flyback also come with exchangeable watch straps and has a quick-release mechanism too allowing watch wearers to effortlessly change the straps.

In addition to the Pilot collection, Zenith also launched three other unisex watches – Defy Revival Shadow, Defy Skyline Ceramic and Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic – as part of its DEFY Revival line at the Watches and Wonder 2023. The new pieces are a modern revival of the original DEFY model released in 1969.

The Defy Skyline Ceramic, for instance, has a flat top bezel with an octagonal-shaped black ceramic case that gives the watch its bold appeal. The watch’s case and straps – available in rubber and ceramic – are manufactured with metals and alloys that give the watch its unhinged quality which ensures that watch wearers need not worry about scratches or the watch losing its vibrant new look.

In terms of its technical aspects, the gadget is inbuilt with an automatic high-frequency El Primero 3620 manufacture movement and the first-ever 1/10th of a second indicator.

Click here to explore Zenith’s newest watches, launched at the Watches and Wonders 2023.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Cartier_Masse mysterieuse — (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40

Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_patek_philippe_antiplano_ultimate_concept — (Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Jaeger_lecoultre_master_hybris_artistica_calibre — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre)

Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.