Tag: Vintage Watch

Timeless Luxury: The Top Five Most Opulent Watches of 2023

While some may consider a watch as a mere timekeeping device, others see it as a symbol of prestige and sophistication. If you’re curious about the priciest timepieces, this article is for you. From exquisite design to intricate mechanisms, these timepieces are the epitome of luxury. Scroll down to explore the craftsmanship, beauty, and exclusivity that define these expensive watches and make them the most coveted timepieces money can buy in 2023.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette for HK$203 million

precious timepieces

Ever wondered what the smallest mechanical calibre ever to be manufactured looks like. Look no further than Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 101 which was a miniature-sized dial created in the early 1920s allowing the watchmaker to make a diverse range of watch designs particularly feminine watches. One such watch that featured this tiny calibre is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette which has a strap made of white gold that is inlaid with 576 diamonds and 11 semi-precious crystals. As you would expect, this unique luxury watch is worth hundreds of millions with it being priced at US$26 million (HK$203 million.)

4. Breguet Grande Complication Marie Antoinette for HK$234 million

precious timepieces

Getting its name as one of the most intricate pocket watches, the vintage Breguet Grande Complication was a watch that was made-to-order to be gifted to Queen Marie Antoinette with the buyer requesting that the horology piece be made with as much gold as possible and complete with the highest number of features in it. Likewise, this 60mm watch consists of more than 800 parts and 23 complications and is made with 24-carat gold and sapphire. For those who would like to take a closer look at this prestigious watch, it is on display at the L.A. Mayer Museum but if you want to own one, you will need to put down US$30 million (HK$234 million.)

3. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime for HK$280 million

most expensive watches

Made especially for the Only Watch 2019 auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime made headlines when it received the highest hammer price at the eighth edition of the charity auction, making it one of the most expensive watches to be ever auctioned and making it the third year, the horology brand held on to this coveted position. There are many factors that set this rendition of the Grandmaster Chime apart. It is a two-faced watch consisting of a 48mm dial on either side and boasting a total of 20 different complications and five different chiming options. Moreover, the watch is made of stainless steel which is an uncommon choice for watches that are particularly instilled with various complicated features. During the auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime fetched an astonishing price of ₣31 million (HK$280 million.)

2. Graff Diamonds The Fascination for HK$ 313 million

most expensive watches

Taking a spot among the most expensive watches ever to be made is the London-based jeweller Graff Diamonds with a diamond-covered timepiece called The Fascination. As the name suggests, the watch is fittingly fascinating as it is complete with 152.96 carats of white diamonds and a detachable pear-shaped diamond that can be switched with the watch dial or worn as a ring after attaching it to a shank. Above all, this three-in-one piece consisting of the rarest and the finest diamonds is also a reflection of the brand’s highly appreciated watchmaking techniques and precision in revealing the time. If you wish to own The Fascination timepiece by Graff Diamonds, it will cost you US$40 million (HK$ 313 million.)

Also Read: Engagement watches are the new engagement rings

1. Graff Diamonds Hallucination for HK$430 million

most expensive watches

One glance at the Graff Diamonds Hallucination and anyone will notice why this watch has ranked as one of the most expensive watches since its launch at the 2014 Baselworld. The timepiece is literally covered with 110 carats of various fancy-coloured diamonds in different cuts. Laurence Graff, the founder of Graff Diamonds, even described this extravagant timepiece as a “celebration of the miracle of coloured diamonds.” With the myriad of diamonds being over the top, it can be easy to miss the relatively small pink Quartz dial that is also embellished with pink diamonds around it. Though the dial may not be the first thing to catch people’s attention, it certainly deserves high recognition for being able to tell the time very accurately, not needing a power reserve and not needing to be wound constantly. The Graff Diamonds Hallucination is priced at US$55 million (HK$430 million).

The do’s and don’ts of vintage watch repairs

Vintage wristwatches – timepieces typically made before the ’80s – are hugely prized and popular investment items for haute horology enthusiasts. Indeed, well-preserved older timepieces with strong provenances have yielded stunning auction results across the globe. A case in point is actor Paul Newman’s 1968 Rolex Daytona, which sold in 2017 for a staggering US$15.5 million.  Due to their age, though, many of these collectibles show signs of wear and tear, ranging from scratched crystal to broken parts. But collectors should be aware of exactly how vintage watch repairs affect the overall timepiece if they want to maintain the integrity and value of their precious timepiece, as one wrong move could see their investment significantly devalue. 

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine philipps
Image from Philipps

The value of original parts

Highly sought-after vintage timepieces were typically made for a particular purpose (or purposes) and often have a significant place in history. In an article posted by major international auction house Sotheby’s, watch collectors prize vintage watches because they represent monumental horological moments and are often part of major technological breakthroughs. Take, for example, the the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, designed for the Everest expedition in 1953, the first watch to reach Mount Everest’s 8,848m summit. So, it makes sense why original parts, although flawed or damaged, can carry significant value for a vintage timepiece. For instance, signs of ageing like scratches can offer a unique story, and replacing those parts during vintage watch repairs would be akin to changing its history, and ultimately, its value. 

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine quill and pad
Image from Quill & Pad

The three most important parts to a vintage watch

First and foremost, if you aren’t sure whether replacing a broken part would benefit or devalue a vintage watch, don’t do it. Once it’s done, it can’t be undone, and there is no way to return its value. Here are other points to note when contemplating vintage watch repairs:

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine classic watch repair (2)
Image from Classic Watch Repair

The crystals

When the crystal of a watch is severely cracked or damaged, repairing it is important. It is the first defense in protecting the most important parts of the watch – the dial, hands, and movement – from external substances that could cause irreparable damage to the movement, surely affecting the value of the watch. 

Water-resistant gaskets

Similar to the crystal, gaskets are also an important part of the watch’s protective system. If a gasket is not restored or replaced, it will become damaged, brittle or flattened over time, creating a weak spot for the watch and potentially allowing dirt and other particles to enter and adversely affect its internal mechanisms.

Hands and dials

The dials and hands are always two factors of the watch that collectors look at when considering the value of a timepiece, particularly in the case of complex creations with multiple apertures. Replacing the dials and hands not only affects the aesthetics of the watch but also drastically brings down the value of it. The only exception to replacing the hands of a vintage timepiece, according to a watch specialist at Christie’s, is if the replacement part is age-appropriate, authentic and equally as rare as the watch itself. For example, a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 from 1954 with a mirror dial from the early ’60s would be more likely to retain its value. Alternatively, an experienced watchmaker may be able have an alternative solution to prevent further deterioration while keeping its original part, and therefore maintaining the integrity of the original model.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine watchtime

Finding an experienced watchmaker to service replacement part

Although it is recommended that vintage watch repairs should be handled by the original brand’s service centre, it isn’t a guarantee that they can even accept them. In some cases, parts that require repair are either rare or have ceased to be produced, thus hindering their ability to refurbish them. In these instances, you can still opt for an independent watchmaker, one specifically experienced in the precepts of proper watch restoration work. Here are a few recommendations:

DM2 Watch Service

Berne Horology

Classic Watch Repair

 

Feature image from Classic Watch Repair