Tag: Van Cleef & Arpels

Out of the box: Sophistication and emancipation unleashed

The term “box” really doesn’t do justice to the sophistication of the vanity cases, jewellery receptacles and lipstick containers of times bygone. Artfully fashioned from gold or platinum with enamel-set precious stones or mother-of-pearl, such admirable accommodations were as finely-crafted conceits as any of the items of haute joaillerie sported by the most discerning ladies of the day.

While, aesthetically, these distinctly ladylike accessories were veritable masterpieces of creativity and technique, their origins are intriguingly enmeshed with one of the great turning points in feminist history. First coming to the fore during the Art Deco movement of the ’20s and ’30s, they made manifest the growing sense of independence among the more modish ladies of the day. Throughout World War I, after all, a huge number of women had answered their country’s call in a variety of roles. Once hostilities ceased, it was all but impossible to persuade them to adopt solely their more homely responsibilities.

Along with the acceptance that expectations and roles had been forever changed came a sense of joie de vivre, an exuberance that permeated many aspects of the lives of the women of the day. As they started to enjoy their newfound freedom, it became de rigueur to wear make-up and even to smoke in public. It was around this time that bejewelled boxes and cigarette holders made their debut, becoming a symbol of social enfranchisement and sophistication in pretty much equal measure.

 

*The jewellery boxes shown here are exhibited at L’ECOLE at K11 Musea until 9 February 2020. Free    Admission.

Right Dangle: Geometric jewellery greater than the sum of their parts

When Euclid, the famed classical Greek scholar, first stumbled upon the concept of geometry in ancient Athens, it was such a revolutionary breakthrough in the field of science that no subsequent feat of engineering or architecture could have been ever possible without the use of this particular mathematical discovery.

But while geometry is all but an academic pursuit for the maths-minded scholar, thankfully, the reach of geometric design has spread well beyond the groves of Academia. Not only are geometric patterns instrumental in shaping almost every possible modern structure, it suffices to say that these designs have been equally adaptable to apparel, accessories and even jewellery.

Their appeal, specifically in the world of haute joaillerie, has proved to be timeless. While outré, exceptional, eye-catching pieces are perhaps more suited to special occasions, it is the simple, classic geometric patterns of everyday jewellery that we can rely on time and again. Not only do their minimalist lines lend themselves well to every occasion, be it formal dinners or casual soirées, their basic shapes – ovals, squares, triangles – combine harmoniously to create jewellery items that are far greater than the sum of their parts.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Aroma Therapy: Four new perfumes for this season

With summer well and truly on us, the haute perfumers have launched a range of new perfumes this season, of which we have shortlisted four new aromas you just can’t do without…

Green has long been synonymous with freshness, so luxury label Gucci naturally gravitated towards this particular hue for packaging for its new limited-edition Gucci Flora Emerald Gardenia fragrance. The green colour is not only apt for its container, but is also emblematic of its carefully-curated contents, all ripe with fruity and floral notes, layered on a soft woody base.

Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani has expanded its Gioia perfume collection with the addition of LIGHT di Gioia, an add-on aroma that ably encapsulates the citrusy and musky notes of nature.

For its part, YSL Beauté has chosen to infuse the delicate floral notes of violet into its latest offering, Grain de Poudre. It is, however, the subtle hints of subsidiary sage, coriander and pepper that make its aroma quite so complex and timeless.

The parfumiers at Van Cleef & Arpels, too, have looked to add another classic fragrance – Sandalwood – to their Collection Extraordinaire. As its name suggests, this is one aroma that harnesses the ageless appeal of sandalwood, enhanced with a hint of mandarin and fig milk.

Sweet Spot: Haute haute joaillerie accessories as dandy as candy…

Your cravings for sweets may be satisfied this season without the worry of making a trip to the dentist, as haute joaillerie accessories from luxury brands such as Cartier, Chopard and Piaget have all the latest offerings for those who believe that the sweeter things in life are meant to be worn, rather than eaten.

From Left:
Extremely Piaget Collection necklace in 18K white gold with emerald-cut yellow diamond and pavé white diamonds by Piaget
Volants Noirs et Blancs ring in white gold with diamonds, spinels and opals by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sunny Side of Life cuff-watch in 18K white gold with diamonds and a lapis lazuli dial; Sunlight Journey earrings in 18K white gold with oval-cut opals, sapphire beads and diamonds, both by Piaget

High Jewellery Collection cuff in 18K yellow gold set with yellow and white diamonds;
High Jewellery Collection white gold and aluminium necklace set with rubies, both by Chopard

From left:
Les Galaxies de Cartier ring and necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, yellow and blue sapphires, and fire opals; Les Galaxies de Cartier bracelet in 18K white gold with black Tahitian pearls, all by Cartier
From left:
Mille Miglia Racing Colours stainless steel watch by Chopard
Cartier Santos Dumont watch in 18K gold with steel case by Cartier

From left:
Attrape Moi ring in 18K white and pink gold with diamonds, sapphires, Mandarin garnets and aquamarines by Chaumet
Carré de Sator necklace in white gold set with diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, chrysoprase and turquoise; Apollon Butterfly clip in white, pink and yellow gold set with pink sapphires, diamonds and mauve; Gâteau d’Amour ring in white gold set with diamonds, spinels and coral; Two Butterfly Between the Finger ring in yellow gold set with lapis lazuli and diamonds, all by Van Cleef & Arpels
Piaget Polo 42mm stainless steel watch; Limelight Garden Party collection ring in 18K white gold set with oval-cut pink tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds, both by Piaget
From left:
Josephine Aigrette Imperiale earrings and necklace in 18K white gold with pavé diamonds and pear-shaped pigeon blood rubies; Hortensia
“Aube Rosée” secret watch in 18K pink gold with diamonds, opals, pink opals, pink tourmalines and pink sapphires, all by Chaumet
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere watch in satin-finished bronze case by Montblanc (limited to 1858 pcs)

Duallery: Transformable jewellery in haute couture

Since the early days of the last century, transformable jewellery has been the staple of many of the world’s foremost luxury brands. This has seen such luminaries as Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels create some of the most technically complex items in their long histories.

Fleur Graphique necklace set with diamonds, onyx and emeralds, with black lacquer, on white gold, from which the centrepiece can be separated

While popularised in the 20th century, such items first appeared almost 100 years ago, at a time when such inventive jewellery was strictly the province of royalty. With many weighty items worn solely on specific occasions, it fell to a number of regally-approved jewellers to tweak several royal favourites, allowing them to be worn across a variety of different engagements.

The central element can be detached from the GRAFF yellow and white diamond necklace and worn as a brooch

This saw items created with mix-and-match reassembly as a fundamental part of the design. It was a conceit that was soon to enter the mainstream. With the aid of clips, clasps and brackets, today’s jewellery-adept buyers can easily transform a large item into several complementary smaller ones, frequently cross-matching them with other styles or marques.

The Piaget pendant can be worn separately as a brooch

The owners of such ubiquitous items can also rejoice in the intrinsic added value of their purchases. According to Christie’s, that most British of auctioneers, once under the gavel, such items can easily command a premium of between 20 and 30 percent more, compared to non-transformable trinkets.

Detachable pendant by Mikimoto

Given their facility for a chameleon-esque shift from mood to mood, occasion to occasion and role to role, it’s not difficult to see why the contemporary woman has such an affinity with these fluid adornments. After all, what better symbol could there for her own multi-faceted engagement with the demands of 21st century life?

Text: Hira Desai

Green-eyed: Luxury accessories with an enviably natural look

It’s no secret that choosing the perfect luxury accessories can make or break your overall look. If you’re a loss for just which jewellery pieces to choose, fear not. The Gafencu style team has carefully curated a selection of the latest accessories that will surely have your friends green-eyed with envy.

Beautiful luxury accessories from Chanel

From left – Cactus de Cartier 18K yellow gold rings, necklace and earrings with precious and semi–precious gemstones and diamonds, all by Cartier

Hermes and Chopard serve up some beautiful luxury accessories

From top – Cape Cod steel watch with diamonds, Kelly Chaine yellow gold tie necklace and double tour bracelet, all by Hermes; Happy Hearts 18K rose gold rings with moving diamonds and precious stones, Happy Sport stainless steel watch with moving diamonds, all by Chopard

Necklaces and open bangles from Piaget

From left: Possession 18K pink gold necklaces and open bangles with diamonds and cabochons, all by Piaget

Watches by Piaget and accessories from Chopard

From left: Possession 18K pink gold watches with diamonds by Piaget; Happy Hearts 18K rose gold long necklace, bracelet and earrings with moving diamonds, Happy Diamonds 18K rose gold pendant with moving diamonds, all by Chopard

Van Cleef & Arpels presents an arresting array of luxury accessories

From Left: Bouton d’Or yellow gold necklace, rings and earrings; Vintage Alhambra 20-motif long necklace and 2-motif earrings, all by Van Cleef & Arpels

Photos: Neville Lee
Art Direction & Styling: San Wong

SIHH Highlights: Our favourite timepieces from the Geneva watch fair

Every year, a select band of haute horology enthusiasts set off, pilgrim-style, to explore the wonders of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva’s annual and highly-exclusive watch-fest.

SIHH Highlights

Set two months before the mighty Baselworld, the January-held SIHH gives all true chronographic aficionados their first opportunity to get a sense of how the year is likely to sit in the annals of all things timepiece.

And, if the 2018 event was anything to go by, the next 12 months are set to prove vintage for all those rightly mesmerised by fine mechanical movements. Overall, a staggering number of designs, with intricacy and intrigue matched in equal parts, made their debut in Switzerland’s second city. While it would be folly to try and list all of the event’s highlights in one brief article, a few items clearly merited particular mention.

JLC Reverso Tribute Duoface

Resurrected, re-invented classics always receive a warm welcome at the SIHH with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Duoface proving no exception. Reviving the marque’s iconic flippable Reverso face – a feature that debuted back in 1931 – the new model fetchingly mounts that self-same flipping mechanism on twotoned leather straps by Casa Fagliano, the rightly-famed Argentinean bootmaker.

Its slate-grey front dial ably displays hours, minutes and seconds, while its silvered Clous de Paris guilloché back features an additional day-night indicator. With the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched into its caseback, it simply couldn’t be more of a collectors’ item.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive

Ulysses Nardin, too, opted to immerse itself in its own regal past, taking its Diver Deep Dive model – one of the most famous manifestations of its legendary prowess in the nautically-engineered sector – to a whole new level. Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, this high-performance timepiece makes full use of the company’s proprietary UN-230 movement, while flaunting its maritime credentials through hammerheads on its crown guard, dial counter and caseback.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Ornementale

Vacheron Constantin, meanwhile, chose to revisit its more recent past with a comparatively swift upgrade to its 2005 masterpiece – the Tour de l’Ile. This fresh take – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication ‘Ornementale’ – is simply audacious and boasts 16 unique complications.

While its front dial – resplendent with a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and sunrise/sunset indicators – is fulsome enough, its true beauty can be found on the caseback, where a dizzying array of astronomical complications await. At its very epicenter lies a fascinating sky chart, richly encircled by season, zodiac and moon phases indices.

A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tribute to Walter Lange

Despite such worthy contenders, the timepiece that truly topped the tribute list was A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Homage to Walter Lange. More than just a touching homage to the brand’s late chairman, it’s also a fastidious reinvention of the jumping seconds complication, an innovation first introduced more than 150 years ago.

VCA Lady Arpels Planetarium

Moving from the celebratory to the more outré, this year’s SIHH featured a timely treat for watchloving women the world over in the sprightly form of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planétarium. This diamond-studded 38mm white gold watch features miniaturised models of Mercury, Venus and the Earth, all orbiting around a centrally-set ‘sun’ in real time.

Richard Mille RM 53-01

For its part, Richard Mille opted for something a little more gentlemanly, with its RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough proving an apt ode to the world of that true Sport of Kings – polo. Created in partnership with Donough, one of the sport’s finest practitioners, the RM53-01 is supremely smash-resistant and boasts a striking suspended tourbillon in its open-faced dial.

MB&F and Stepan Sarpanova MoonMachine 2

Overall, though, if pushed, it would have to be conceded that the most unconventional timepiece on show came courtesy of Stepan Sarpaneva, an independent Finnish watchmaker, and MB&F, one of Switzerland’s more progressive ateliers, and took the unmistakable form of the MoonMachine 2.

Acknowledged as experimental high-end watchmaking at its very best, its futuristic open-worked dial and distinctive trapezium-style bezel was only topped by its projected moon phase display, something of a first in the world of haute horology – and something that proved an apt reward for the many who found their way to the 2018 SIHH in search of something truly timeless.

 

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Bejewelled beauties: Our top 5 picks ahead of Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction is taking place in Hong Kong on 3 April. Whether an avid jewellery collector or a gem connoisseur, this one’s a bidding war that you can’t afford to miss. Here we spotlight on five exquisite pieces that – in our opinion – are worth fighting for.

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Ruby, Diamond and Emerald Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels
Lot 1778

A classic bejewelled brooch in Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature extravagant style, the piece is estimated to fetch between HK$2,200,000-2,800,000. A beautiful swan in 18-carat gold, it features brilliant-cut diamonds with ruby feathers and an emerald eye, all brought to life by Van Cleef & Arpels’ exquisite craftsmanship, and is signed by the haute joaillerie maison.

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Fancy Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring
Lot 1776

As gem connoisseurs would be only too aware, blue diamonds happen to be the most-sought after diamond category after red diamonds. So it should come as no surprise that this beautiful ring starring a fancy blue diamond worth 14.18 carats is estimated to go under the gavel at anywhere between HK$46,200,000 and HK$60,000,000. The surrounding bezel of pink diamonds mounted in platinum and 18-carat pink gold adds to the supreme value of the piece.

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring
Lot 1621

With the craze for yellow diamonds on the rise, this exquisite ring – which boasts a brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 15.69 carats as its centrepiece – will probably be snapped up only after a closely contested battle. Add to that the two heart-shaped GIA-certified D-colour diamonds each weighing 1.01 carats, and the platinum and 18-carat yellow gold real estate of the ring, and we have a big scorer that’s estimated to fetch between HK$5,500,000-6,500,000.

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, Cartier
Lot 1505

Featuring six prancing diamond horses created out of pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds, with emerald eyes, this Cartier bracelet is expected to fetch anything between HK$320,000-480,000. Set in 18-carat white gold and 165mm long, this one’s sure to gallop to glory in the auction ring.

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction

Diamond and Gem Set Necklace, Dior
Lot 1628

With a sizeable pear-shaped diamond worth 5.82 carats as its central anchor, this link chain necklace is a floral affair with coloured gemstones including rubies, sapphires, yellow sapphires, pink sapphires and emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted on 18-carat white gold. Signed and case-stamped by Dior, this fetching piece is estimated to bring around HK$950,000-1,800,000.

To check out the full catalogue of Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction, click here.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Planetarium Watches: Capturing the beauty of our cosmos in a wrist-sized package

Planetarium watches have long been star attractions in haute horology circles. Given humanity’s enamourment with the almost otherworldly nature of our cosmos, who could say no to the option of carrying a mini solar system on your wrist? Although they may seem like a modern creation, planetarium watch mechanisms existed long before its current wristwatch form.

Passement's 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock
Passement’s 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock

In days before the Age of Enlightenment (a.k.a. the 18th century), the use of planetariums were limited exclusively to those of a scientific bent exploring the secrets of the solar system. But as humanity become more informed and cultured, the uppermost strata of society began to take a benign interest in these fascinating mechanisms.

They spawned a series of intricate timepieces that tracked the progression of celestial bodies – a novel and cutting-edge idea at the time. French watchmaker Passement’s 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock, commissioned by the French royal court, was one such example. This table-top clock featured an accurate representation of the Earth and moon revolving around the sun.

Christiaan van der Klaauw's Satellite du Monde
Christiaan van der Klaauw’s Satellite du Monde

In more modern times though, planetarium watches have been shrunk down to portable sizes thanks to advents in watchmaking technology. Many of these advancements can be attributed to the works of one man – Christiaan van der Klaauw. The Dutchman – a giant in the world of haute horology – started his eponymous brand over 40 years ago, specialising exclusively in designing astronomical complications.

His Satellite du Monde, released in 1996, was the first real planetarium wristwatch. The rather busy dial featured an astrological complication which indicated, in real time, where noon was falling on our planet.

CVDK Planetarium - the world's smallest planetarium watch
CVDK Planetarium – featuring the world’s smallest planetarium complication

Three years later, he wowed the world by unveiling the CVDK Planetarium, the smallest planetarium complication ever made. Miniaturised down to sub-dial size, the beautiful face showed the real-time orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around our sun.

Aside from in-house designs, his atelier has lent its expertise to other timepiece manufacturers. One such example is the custom-made mechanism that adorned Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planetarium which was unveiled at SIHH earlier this year. (Read our feature on this watch and other SIHH highlights here.)

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium

That’s not to say that CVDK holds a monopoly over planetarium watches. Other brands have also attempted to put these astrological complications into their designs. One brand that’s reaped fantastic results is Girard-Perregaux. In addition to having not one, not two, but three flying tourbillons, its Planetarium Tri-Axial Tourbillon features a mini-Earth that completes one rotation every 24 hours.

Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri Axial
Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri Axial

Planetarium watches don’t often surface on the market. They’re extremely complicated, time-consuming and difficult to produce. But when they do emerge, they’re lauded by the haute hologerie world and watch enthusiasts without fail.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: Antiquorum, CVDK, Van Cleef & Arpels, Girard-Perregaux

SIHH 2018: Our top five favourite watches from the prestigious watch event

SIHH – one of the most prestigious events in the calendar for watchmakers – sees industry specialists and watch lovers alike troop down to Geneva each year to witness the freshest crop of timepieces. Apart from releasing new models, the event is also an effective platform for predicting the latest trends of the year.

This year was no different. But among the titans of the horology world, a few stood out for a variety of reasons. Here’s our round-up of the top five timepieces that you need to watch out for!

SIHH 2018

Triple Split by A. Lange & Söhne

Full credit goes to A. Lange & Söhne for creating the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that simultaneously measures additive and comparative times for as long as twelve hours. With Triple Split, the haute horology house has outdone its previous record-holder Double Split. With precise rattrapante minute and hour counters, the Triple Split multiplies the measuring range of the rattrapante function by a factor of 24. Simply put, the Triple Split is accurate enough to compare the times of two opponents in a Formula 1 race down to the second.

SIHH 2018

Reverso Tribute Duoface by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Continuing its partnership with celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a 100-piece limited-edition Reverso Tribute Duoface mounted on signature Casa Fagliano two-tone cordovan leather straps. Taking off from the Duoface concept, the watch features two contrasting dials with different time zones.

Painstaking craftsmanship marks its every aspect, from the hand-applied hour markers with Dauphine hands to the Art Deco-inspired minute track. The handcrafted leather strap, with its unique patina and finishes and the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched on its case back seal the deal for this understated masterpiece.

SIHH

Diver Deep Dive by Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin carries on its love affair with the sea with the Diver Deep Dive, its most robust diving watch yet, with water resistance up to 1000 metres! Like its immediate predecessor, the Diver Deep Dive is powered by in-house calibre UN-320, featuring an escape wheel configuration and a patented silicium lever. Nautical influences are obvious in the choice of colour and design: 15 blue hammerheads swim on the dial, with a bright red one on the crown guard and another one on the dial counter. There’s even a hammerback stamped on the caseback!

SIHH 2018

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’ by Vacheron Constantin

Inspired by what was the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 2005: the famous Tour de l’Île by Vacheron Constantin, the makers have recreated their stupendous feat yet again in Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication ‘Ornementale’. Displaying 16 separate complications in a relatively miniature package, the timepiece highlights Vacheron Constantin’s tour de force in both miniaturising and engineering. The complications are mostly astronomical, and features – in addition to hour and minute counters – 11 other functions such as minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, etc.

Lady Arpels Planétarium by Van Cleef & Arpels

In keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ elaborate creations, the Lady Arpels Planétarium – a part of the maison’s Poetic Astronomy Universe – simulates the planetary system on the limited surface of a wristwatch! Our most dazzling watch on the list, all its features, from the diamond-bedecked bezel and strap to the miniature planets made of precious stones revolving on the bright blue dial, are designed to inspire awe. But the most arresting part of the watch lies in its concept of imprecision. Devoid of hands, the watch revels in a state of perfect imprecision. While other watches seek to divide time to its minutest fraction, this one is a reminder of the enigma of time.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay