Healing Hands: The tick-tock masters who can repair all parts of your beloved watch

A watch is a very personal item and the journey to owning it can take several months. If it falters, however, modifications or repairs can be difficult, as only a handful of shops offer bespoke servicing. Watch restoration is an opportunity to bring a beloved model back to life and onto your wrist. We make the job of finding a master watchmaker to repair your wrist reward easier by curating a list of premium service centres in the city.

Classic Watch Repair

Based in Central, Classic Watch Repair is a one-stop service centre with more than 20 years of experience. The team is adept at repairing and restoring any timepiece, both mechanically and aesthetically. Besides standard watch repairs, they specialise in reviving exterior parts that are not generally covered by a brand service.

Michael Young, founder of Classic Watch Repair, is a vintage watch restoring legend. A mechanical engineer by training, he began his watch ‘fixation’ as a collector of Rolex models 40 years ago. Frustrated that Rolex wouldn’t repair or restore the cases, bracelets, dials or hands of his treasured timepieces, Young learned to do it himself. His meticulous restoration work and vintage-watch servicing have earned him a solid reputation around the world and the nickname ‘the Rolex bracelet magician’. classicwatchrepair.com

MisterChrono

Over the past 10 years, MisterChrono has made its mark through in-depth knowledge of the watchmaking industry and partnerships with watch repair and service specialists in Paris, Hong Kong and Singapore. These masters of high-quality workmanship have the necessary tools to carry out both routine maintenance and minor repairs as well as a complete overhaul of your watch. Moreover, if you are looking for specific advice, they will be able to answer your questions and guide you.

Giving an initial analysis and repair quotation as soon as you enter the shop in Central, the team offers a wide range of services from changing a battery and replacing the crown to fixing the hands or polishing the case. They recommend mechanical watches receive a full service every five years. This begins with the dismantling of the watch and the movement, followed by a thorough ultrasonic cleaning and inspection of all components and the replacement of any damaged or worn parts. The movement is then reassembled using the manufacturer’s specified oils and lubricants with a full calibration of the regulating mechanism. The watch case and bracelet are cleaned, and if requested, can be polished and refurbished. The service concludes with rigorous quality control and testing for 72 hours – including for pressure- and water resistance – and a final visual inspection of the watch. misterchrono.hk

Oriental Watch Company

As well as being a leading watch retailer, Oriental Watch Company offers a professional watch service experience. Designed and run by accordance with Swiss and German watchmaking standards, its in-house repair workshop in Sheung Wan is equipped with cutting-edge instruments including a water-resistance testing machine, a watch-movement analyser, the Chronoscope S1 high-quality watch-testing instrument and the Cyclomotion watch winder.

This abundance of outstanding hardware is utilised by staff with an average of 20 years of experience in watch repairing, with the majority having previously worked for haute horlogerie brands. Their most experienced master watchmaker has served in the industry for more than four decades. All potential restoration projects will be fully evaluated and discussed with the client before work commences. orientalwatch.com

Hong Kong Ruigang Watch Group

At the Tsim Sha Tsui flagship store of Hong Kong Ruigang Watch Group, trained watchmakers set about the task of lovingly restoring vintage timepieces. A thorough inspection of the watch movement identifies any damaged or worn parts, and should a new or replacement part not be available, they will refurbish the old part or machine a new part from scratch. Their dedicated dial department offers varying degrees of dial restoration, from adding luminosity to hour indexes and hands to repainting the entire watch face.

Hong Kong Ruigang also specialises in professional polishing and finishing to a watch’s original factory specifications. Going beyond normal polishing on a buffing machine, their technical polishing service using specialised tools results in a crisp edge that, in essence, is a reshaping of the case. For owners of popular models like Rolex or Omega, replacing scratched or damaged sapphire crystal isn’t usually a problem, but for vintage, bespoke and small- production watches, precious new glass can be custom-made to fit. They also undertake steel- and gold-band restorations by carefully removing each link and rebuilding it before re-assembling the bracelet. mbwxzx.hk

Prices for the services described here vary according to the intricacy of the restoration and the bespoke technicalities required by individual timepieces. Consultations can be booked online, although walk-in clients are also entertained. These watch-repair companies are, in short, trusted doctors for your cherished chronometers.

Light Fantastic: Dials can defy the dark with a touch of super-luminescent razzle-dazzle

Watches that glow in the dark offer the wearer reassurance they will be able to read the time even under most trying of circumstances. Many of the prestigious brands paint the hands and dial of their timepieces with a special pigment that gleams by absorbing and then reemitting light. Unfortunately, the first so-called lume watches derived their luminescence from radium, a radioactive material, and were discontinued, but the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution now used to coat key parts of the watch face is considered completely safe.

Rolex has long enjoyed a reputation for producing watches with that extra special glow. Indeed, some of their early pocket watches made for the military were painted with luminous material. Today’s collections use Super-LumiNova, which first came to light in 1933, or the brand’s proprietary Chromalight technology, which debuted in 2008, for luminescence.

The Chromalight display of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, for instance, is designed to offer excellent legibility in all circumstances. The blue glow emitted in dark conditions lasts for about eight hours, while in daylight a distinctive bright white hue emanates from the watch. The new Explorer, a collection made famous by Himalayan expeditions, is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel.

Luminescence is a critical attribute for divers’ watches in murky underwater conditions. The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge sports an array of features to combat such an environment, including patented case architecture with a sealed Triplock crown set to withstand extreme pressure and Chromalight display with superb luminescence to enhance underwater legibility.

The need for outstanding visibility has also played an important role in the design of Bell & Ross watches. The Lum collection, launched in 2017, is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation where readability and luminosity are key. Dials, numerals, indices and hands are highly legible day and night due to their Super-LumiNova coating.

In recent years, models have emitted a range of colours, from the intense green glow of the BR 03-92 Grey Lum to others exhibiting a pale yellow luminescence. The most recent iteration, the BR-X5 Green Lum, is crafted from titanium and an innovative photo-luminescent composite material, LM3D. So, unlike in previous iterations, it is the 41mm case that glows fully in the dark, serving to magnify the dial – replete with luminous hour and minute markers, hands, date and power-reserve indicators – and give the watch a surreal look.

Launched in 2010, the youthful, avant-garde brand of Ressence takes a minimalistic approach to watch design. Its latest release, the Type 1° M, features engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova on a convex German silver dial. The glow effect is enhanced by a greater range of colour codes than previously seen (M stands for Multicolour), with green, blue, yellow and red appearing on the hour, minute, second and weekday discs respectively in a beautiful contrast with the light grey dial. Its unique Ressence Orbital Convex System module is driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre. Notably, there is no crown – time-setting and winding are accomplished via a retractable lever on the caseback.

Breitling has recently updated its Avenger range, and the new B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission, powered by the Breitling calibre 01, has Super-LumiNova-coated indices, numerals and hands on a carbon fibre dial of all-black, or yellow with chronograph counters in black. The numerals are particularly legible. A ceramic bezel and case, with a titanium caseback, crown and pushers, round off a super-strong design.

Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition pays tribute to the America’s Cup and defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The visually striking timepiece combines the turquoise hue of the team logo with the deepest black, while the distinctive green glow emitted in the dark by the white Super-LumiNova adds to the feast of colours. Its power comes from Omega’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in Summer Blue, meanwhile, joins a line in homage to a world-record dive of 2019. When UV light is directed at the lacquered dial, the words “Omega was here” are revealed.

One of the hallmarks of a Roger Dubuis timepiece is its superb luminescence, exemplified by the kaleidoscope of colours emanating from the synthetically grown spinels – graded from red to blue, and coated with Super-LumiNova – on the dial of the eye-catching Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. This dazzling combination of colour and light bounces off the 42mm Eon gold case and bezel set with curved synthetic sapphires.

Capturing the free-spirited movement of the sea and the creatures who dwell within it, Seiko has added a “Whale” model to its Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive Limited Edition collection. The automatic diver’s watch features a bright white dial and bracelet and contrasting black hands and case. The bezel, hands and indices are coated with LumiBrite for practical and aesthetic reasons.

A skeletonised chronograph has joined the TAG Heuer Monaco range. It comes in a choice of three different colours powered by the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The distinctive skeleton dial, a first for the line, is housed in a tough grade 2 titanium case. In another innovation for the model, the date window (along with the indices and hands of the watch) are embossed with Super- LumiNova, ensuring brilliant legibility even in low light.

Chopard’s new ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ features oversized 6 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals which are enhanced with black SuperLuminova© – thereby meeting motorsports’ inherent legibility requirements.

Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones

For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.

The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.

Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.

For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.

The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.

Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.

Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.

The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.

Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.

Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.

Depth Charge: Underwater watches that go below and beyond sports needs

Diving the depths of the oceans requires skill and daring and the ability to assess the passing of time. Submerging with the right watch is crucial and the latest watertight instruments provide timely assurance and robust good looks for adventurers.

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date epitomise the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first diver’s wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). A version with a date function, the Submariner Date, followed 16 years later. Contemporary models can plunge securely to 300 metres.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert – in black, blue or green, depending on the version – that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode.

Omega’s ocean story began with the Omega Marine in 1932, the world’s first diver’s watch available to civilians. Characterised by its double case design sealed with cork, the superb water resistance of that timepiece paved the way for the brand’s diving future.

To survive the toughest conditions, Omega created a Concept Ultra Deep watch in 2019 that included indestructible features, such as a case completely machined out of forged grade 5 titanium, robust ‘Manta lugs’ that provided an innovative way of securing the watch to its strap, and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design.

The release of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep collection last year allowed all underwater enthusiasts to feel like a professional aquanaut. Seven models, measuring 45.5mm in diameter and water-resistant to 6,000 metres (20,000 feet), are led by a bold version crafted in sand-blasted and forged grade 5 titanium.

Blancpain claims the honour of introducing the first modern dive watch 70 years ago. Revolutionising watchmaking, the Fifty Fathoms was conceived by passionate scuba diver Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then the brand’s CEO.

The 50th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms saw the arrival of a contemporary version, and 20 years later, the homage continues in a new model, the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa, with a high-tech instrument that makes it possible for the first time to measure up to three-hour immersion times. Designed to meet today’s technical diving requirements, the bezel boasts a three-hour scale that is linked to a special hand that completes one full turn in three hours.

The Panerai story is one of innovation in the service of creating tools for marine adventure. The newly released Submersible QuarantaQuattro is water resistant as far down as 300 metres, thanks to the patented crown-protecting device that is inextricably linked to the Italian watchmaker’s history. A unidirectional rotating bezel to measure submersion time and metallic appliques filled with white SuperLumiNova make the watch an indispensable diving instrument.

The first diving watch Bremont ever produced was the 43mm Supermarine 500, back in 2009. This robust timepiece met the criteria of brand co-founders Nick and Giles English – beautifully engineered, practical in design and also tied to its strong aviation heritage. A new entrant to the range is the Supermarine S501, which has drawn direct inspiration from the S301 released in 2017. The more vintage feel was a big differentiator within this series and it has proved incredibly popular. The thicker crystal case was critical to ensure the watch could still reach depths of 500 metres.

Swiss watchmaker Doxa developed the SUB 200 C-Graph II to fulfil the role of a tool watch on high-risk submersions such as cave dives. With a more contemporary diameter of 42mm and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm, it offers the same functionality and features as its larger 45mm sibling presented in 2020 and is also made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel.

Seiko has introduced a diver’s watch that commemorates five of the world’s highest peaks by Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura. On the textured dial of the Prospex 1970 Diver’s The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition is an image of the contours of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

Face Time: Delightful dial styles for discerning haute horology investors and collectors

Through the ages, many of the finest watchmakers have frequently sought inspiration from the worlds of art and fashion. Typically, this has led to powerful graphic imagery being incorporated into the delightful dial styles of some of the most memorable high-end precision timepieces. At present, numerous such high-concept horological high points merit particular attention.

First up, there is the third watch in Chopard’s L.U.C Skull One series, an exclusive collection inspired by Día de los Muertos – Mexico’s infamous Day of the Dead festival. Available as a 25-piece limited edition, its bold, high-concept design embodies the marque’s hallmark creativity and innovation, while also remaining a prime example of horological excellence. Its centrepiece is a vivid, pop art-inspired Mexican calavera – the annual festival’s unmistakable skull motif – presented in bright flashes of colour and surrounded by a 40mm black beadblasted, DLC-coated stainless-steel case.

In essence, the L.U.C Skull One Calavera Pop Art is a striking blackened stainless-steel watch powered by an exquisite, hand-finished mechanical movement. Defined by its uncompromising and iridescent homage to the Day of the Dead’s timeless rituals, its dial features a transferred skull motif in punchy hues of blue, red, orange, green and yellow, giving the watch an unashamedly non-conformist, pop-art feel.

Second up is something of a departure for Hermès, with the forefronting of its new Super H brand hero motif akin to a horological Bat-Signal in the sky above a stunning graphic representation of Paris. The timepiece in question – the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg – ably fuses the world of pop art with the French capital’s iconic skyline and is available in two limited edition series, each comprising 24 highly distinct, exquisitely wrought watches. The singular style of the range, meanwhile, is largely derived from a celebrated silk scarf designed in 2014 by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an award-winning French artist.

On its highly distinctive dial, the Eiffel Tower stands out against a sky streaked with clouds and studded with aventurine stars, while a beam of light (fashioned from Super-LumiNova) projects out from the unmistakable monument. It is surrounded by a hand-drawn, micropainted embodiment of Parisian life, with its multi-layered rendering bestowing a grimy canvas-like finish.

Also Read: Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Equally enchanting is the fourth iteration of Roger Dubuis’ Urban Culture Tribe collection – the Excalibur Liu Wei Monotourbillon (MT). Keen to make this edition supremely special, the marque granted renowned sculptor and illustrator Liu Wei access to its fabled inner sanctum – the Manufacture itself. It was within its venerable walls that the much-admired artist set about reinterpreting the astral signature of the iconic Excalibur MT. Opting for a complex composite of multi-coloured lines, Liu delivered a stylised, bustling, digitised statement piece, which reinvented the original Excalibur MT as a beguiling blend of clashing colours and pulsing lights that uniquely captures the modern urban world.

Building on this, the brand then opted to enhance the hour markers with black SuperLuminova, creating a vivid glow-in-the-dark effect, which is most strikingly apparent under UV light. In a further refinement, the Roger Dubuis and Swiss Made logos have been accentuated with powdered SuperLuminova for the first time, an innovation that sees this element of the timepiece shift through three different colour variants – silver by day, green by night and blue under UV light.

Moving on now to something equally engaging for the lady who loves fine timepieces, the Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection, with its eternally elegant embrace of Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, was unashamedly conceived as a paean to discerning femininity.

Daintily engraved in the style of Burano lace, the dial of the Égérie Creative Edition sees five enchanting elements expertly superimposed to create a dial of rare distinction. Re-deploying an ancient decorative technique and executed by the marque’s master guillocheur on venerable 100-year-old equipment, the pleated tapisserie motif sits on a silver base, a fine counterpoint to the black enamel.

Commenting on the inspiration for the piece, Christian Selmoni, the brand’s Style and Heritage Director, said: “During the course of Vacheron Constantin’s long history, many of its finest timepieces have been inspired by embroidery and lace motifs, particularly those drawn from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. More recently, lace has inspired our Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – French lace timepiece combining guilloché work, Grand Feu enamelling and gem-setting.”

Finally, for this month, we turn to the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon Pasha de Cartier watches. Developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the first of these features a delicate moon-phase movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue star-strewn planisphere, a striking contrast to the typically bold design of a Pasha de Cartier watch.

(Text: Neil Dolby)

Speed against Time- Best Racing watches for living life on fast track

A test of speed against time, the creation of racing watches is truly an exciting feat. Although it rose to prominence in the mid-90s, its inception dates back to 1821 – the invention of the first racing chronograph. Crafted for the passionate horse racer Louis XVIII, its evolution has since been adjusted to serve racers of all types, including car racers.

Racing watches boast features that distinctly stand out from other timekeepers. Notably, the tachymeter scale and high-contrast angled dial that track every split second of the wearer’s journey for the former, while the latter allows wearers to check the sweeping seconds of the watch’s hand without having to take your hands off the wheel.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the most famous racing watch of all time. Named after the Daytona International Speedway in Florida, the timepiece was introduced as a racing chronograph in 1963 and became especially popular after being worn by actor and enthusiastic racing driving Paul Newman, who had his own collection of Cosmograph Daytona models. The tachymetric scale on the bezel provides excellent legibility, making the Daytona the ideal instrument for measuring speeds of up to 400 units per hour, either in kilometres or miles. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and remains on the front line of classic sports chronographs even after almost six decades.

The Omega Speedmaster, on the other hand, was one of the first chronographs to have a tachymeter scale etched onto the bezel instead of the dial on the original 1957 model. It has since shifted to the edge, improving readability. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in particular, though a tribute to Neil Armstrong and mankind’s first steps on the moon, was originally a traditional racing watch with a perforated leather racing strap and a dial featuring a checked racing-style minute track.

Meanwhile, the Mille Miglia by Chopard flaunts a new, sleek, grey-and-blue dial design and exceptional functionality. The 2022 iteration, a limited edition of 1,000 stainless steel pieces and 250 dual-tone versions with 18-carat ethical rose gold, marks its position as the official timekeeper of the annual Brescia to Rome round trip, with the race logo engraved on the caseback that houses its automatic cam-lever-integrated chronograph, built on Valjoux 7750’s architecture.

Lauded for its uncommonly high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has put out an optimised version of the Chronomaster Sport. Building on its revolutionary one-tenth of a second chronograph display, its newest sports edition is replete with a broad, super-legible ceramic bezel, a tri-compax dial in matte black and matte white, and a 60-hour power reserve.

After a successful collaboration with Lamborghini, Roger Dubius is laying strong foundations in the Motorsport industry by joining hands with Formula 1 tyre supplier Pirelli, while sharing a piece of victory with its wearers. The Excalibur Spider Pirelli straps are made with rubber inlays from the Pirelli Formula 1 tyres of actual winning vehicles, also featuring the Cinturato intermediate pattern. Taking as much time as it takes to change a tyre at a F1 pit stop (three seconds), the straps comes off and on just as quickly. Within its titanium casing is a self-winding movement of 28,800 bph and a power reserve of up to 60 hours. However, the model is limited to only 88 pieces per colourway, while the crown and bezel are also interchangeable with the brand’s first ever automatic skeleton.

Reputed for producing automobile-inspired racing watches, Tag Heuer’s Monaco collection is another firm favourite for Formula 1 racecar drivers, though its original 1969 design was the world’s first square-case water-resistant automatic chronograph. Its latest edition, powered by the Heuer 02 calibre movement with a reserve of 80 hours, features the same square-form in a masculine 39mm stainless-steel case.

Another classic timepiece embodying the spirit of a racing cars is Hublot Fusion Ferrari GT, made in collaboration with Ferrari’s head designer Flavio Manzoni. Featuring Hublot’s UNICO HUB1280 flyback openwork movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, its design is a brilliant combination between traditional Swiss watchmaking and cutting-edge technology. Created as a limited 500-piece series, it arrives in Titanium, King Gold and 3D carbon. It’s black rubber strap is made of Schedoni leather which is known to be used in Ferrari’s Maranello GT cars, while its dynamic design boasts an intricate skeleton dial.

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

dive-watch-Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Panerai

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

dive-watch-Oris-Aquis-New-York-Harbor-Limited-Edition-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Oris

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

dive-watch-IWC-Aquatic-Automatic-gafencu — Photo: IWC

A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 — Photo: Rolex

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

Sky’s the limit for Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual watch collection

On 30 May 2022, Rolex unveils its latest creations. The watchmaker subsequently invited Gafencu to public showing of its fine new range in Hong Kong on 31 May. One of the first things you notice when you pick up a Rolex wristwatch is the heft. The sturdiness a testament to consummate craftsmanship.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-Air-King — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King

The first watch we examined was the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King. This superb timepiece celebrates the pioneers of aviation and encourages those that wear it to take command of their own destiny. The dial inspired by aircraft instruments but the 2022 iteration also it incorporates new features. The dial is now easier to read and achieves better balance due to the addition of a ‘0’ before the ‘5’ on the minutes scale, while a crown guard and straight sides have also been included. These evolutions confirm the Air-King’s place among the brand’s Professional models.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-GMT-Master II — Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

The next was based on a Rolex classic – the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Since its creation in 1955, the GMT-Master has seen some of the greatest moments in aviation history – as varied as the first intercontinental flights to world speed records to Concorde testing. Feats that are underscore human endeavour as much as they are to technological excellence. The GMT-Master II builds on this legacy.

This new iteration of the timepiece incorporated several innovations. It required moving the winding crown to the left side of the watch case and the date aperture to 9 o’clock, as well as modifying the date disc – adjustments that also led to greater precision in the testing process carried out during final controls. The Cerachrom bezel insert is in green and black, a striking colour combination that is exclusive to this watch.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-Yacht-Master-40 — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

The final timepiece put forward for our consideration was the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40. The new Yacht-Master 40 harnesses elements of the ocean, the sky and the sun. The bezel, set with diamonds and sapphires in hues of blue, silver and pink, is inspired by the aurora borealis and the first blush of dawn. The palette of hues is accentuated by the 46 diamonds that adorn the lugs and crown guard. An absolute stunner.

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Cartier_Masse mysterieuse — (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40

Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_patek_philippe_antiplano_ultimate_concept — (Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Jaeger_lecoultre_master_hybris_artistica_calibre — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre)

Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.