Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones

For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.

The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.

Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.

For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.

The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.

Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.

Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.

The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.

Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.

Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.

Artistic Luxury At Its Peak

Zao Wou-Ki’s highly-appreciated art piece 29.09.64, the rare Richard Mille watches, and more artistic luxury creations only prove that a brilliant creation will be worth [literally] millions on any given day.

Blue Art

Inner angst on a canvass

Renowned for his mastery of both the Eastern and Western artistic traditions and for successfully deploying both within one work – Zao Wou-Ki was undoubtedly one of the key figures of the 20th-century artistic milieu. His stature was more than recognised at a recent sale in Hong Kong, which saw one of his most celebrated works, 29.06.64, go for HK$278 million (US$35.5 million).

29.09.64 is a masterful example of Zao Wou-Ki’s oeuvre and dates from one of the most intense periods of his life in both artistic and personal terms. Dominated by a huge mix of distinct blue hues, the work depicts an immense battle with large dark brushstrokes while anchoring the composition are splashes of brilliant white against a central rusty orange motif. An animated and agitated composition, it has been taken as a projection of the artist’s inner angst and yearning for resolution.

This master artist’s work has long been celebrated for its facility to transcend geographical limits and embody a broad, rich cultural essence. His works are seen as driving spiritual renewal while inspiring philosophical reflections on the nature of life, history and the universe.

Also Read: Vibrant City: Hong Kong’s growing art scene

First Timer

Watch of cruiser casualty proves cash cow

Technical excellence, high performance and certain robustness have always been the defining characteristics of the Richard Mille range of luxury precision timepieces. These were in evidence from the very beginning and can be found in the RM001, the watch that started it all and that sold for US$2.3 million (HK$17.7 million) at auction late last year.

It was this striking 18K pink gold wristwatch, complete with its one-minute tourbillion, power and torque reserve indicators, that first put Richard Mille on the global Haute horology map. Worn by the eponymous brand founder himself, it was used as a test piece as he continuously sought to refine the technical and design aspects of his unique vision, ultimately paving the way for the much-loved traits that still define the brand to this day.

In all, there were only 11 of these very early Richard Mille watches ever made – five with a German silver baseplate and six with a titanium counterpart. Today, these models are particularly prized for showcasing the brand’s pioneering approach to the use of innovative materials, something that still remains at the very core of its approach to the watch market.

Violin Piece

A record bid for Man Ray photo

A photograph by Man Ray – one of the most celebrated visual artists of the 20th century and a leading figure in both the Dada and the Surrealists movements – sold for US$12.4 million (HK$96.9 million) when it recently came up for auction at Christie’s in New York. In the process, the picture in question – Le Violon d’Ingres – became the most expensive photograph ever to go under the gavel.

The photo was one of several on offer at The Surrealist World of Rosalind Gersten Jacobs and Melvin Jacobs sale and proved the event’s undoubted highlight. It saw a host of collectors compete to secure the finest items on offer from the collection of Rosalind Gersten Jacobs, an American fashion buyer and retail executive, and her husband, going on to assemble a notable collection of their works.

Le Violon d’Ingres was first published in the Surrealist magazine Littérature in June 1924 and featured Man Ray’s lover, Kiki de Montparnasse, in a pose first made famous by Ingres’ in The Valpinçon Bather (1808). Signed and dated in ink as Man Ray 1924 and stamped in red ink ‘original’ on the reverse, it has a detailed provenance and has long been acknowledged as an icon of the 20th-century art world.

Also Read: Best Bids Bulletin

Standing Incense

Aromatherapy on a stand

Burning incense and other feted aromatics has been a staple of the secular and religious life of China since at least the time of the Han Dynasty (BC 202). To facilitate this, incense burners were often ceremonially placed within imperial offices and private residences, while also being commonly found in places of worship or key outdoor venues. While not quite dating back to the earliest days of such practices, an eminently rare Huanghuali rectangular incense stand, complete with a serpentine panel and drawer, from 17thcentury Xiangji, still racked up a more than respectable HK$24.5 million (US$3.1 million) at a recent auction in Hong Kong.

A relatively unique item, it features a rectangular sectional stand, while its upper area boasts a green-serpentine stone panel within a thick frame with a beaded edge. This all rests on a central plinth set with decorative Taohuan panels, which are framed by pillared struts, with this neatly constructed unit also incorporating a drawer on one side. Part of the appeal of its elegantly curved stand is its clear association with Buddhism. Indeed, these were commonly placed in front of Buddhist images while the stands themselves featured arched outlines that artfully resembled Buddhist caves and pagodas.

(Text: Peter Chan)

7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

dive-watch-Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Panerai

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

dive-watch-Oris-Aquis-New-York-Harbor-Limited-Edition-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Oris

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

dive-watch-IWC-Aquatic-Automatic-gafencu — Photo: IWC

A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 — Photo: Rolex

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

Seven standout timepieces from the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction

The biennial Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute-horology enthusiasts. Now in its ninth iteration, it was founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charity, the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM). The heartbreaking diagnosis of his five-year-old son, Paul, with the Duchenne strain of the disease inspired Pettavino to champion this worthy cause; Paul succumbed to the condition in 2016 at age 21.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently worthy 70 million euros since its inception), the exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces. This year, the auction featured 53 unique lots crafted by 54 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which go under the gavel in Geneva on 6 November. Here, we highlight seven particular standouts.

F.P. Journe FCC Blue (CHF 4.5 million)

First to the table is F.P. Journe’s unusual FCC Blue, inspired by a conversation with famed US director Francis Ford Coppola, who once asked the watchmaker if it would be possible to tell time using a literal human hand. Seven years later, a mechanical marvel with an automaton-powered blue hand taking place of pride on its open-worked fascia, was born. Each of the five fingers extend or retract to display the hours, while minutes are relayed via a peripheral disc.

David Candaux D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique (CHF 150,000)

Another collaborative effort takes the form of the D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique. The joint brainchild of watchmaker David Candaux and contemporary artist Mikki Saturno, this titanium timepiece features a purple bi-planar flying tourbillon at the top of its dazzling dial. The jewel in its crown, however, is undoubtedly the glorious artwork that covers the rest of its face – a miniature design wholly developed and hand-painted by Saturno himself. Interestingly, whether viewed from the front or the rear, the DC7 is among those rare watches that are perfectly symmetrical along the vertical axis.

Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition (CHF 320,000)

A similarly artistic dial graces the Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition by Swiss watchmaker Krayon – in this instance, inspired by Impression, Sunrise by noted impressionist painter Claude Monet, albeit in a mosaic style. Underneath the hood beats a hand-wound prototype calibre C030 movement, and in an impressive engineering feat, the 39mm stainless-steel creation can even be adjusted to calculate the sunrise and sunset times of the winning bidder’s chosen locale.

Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch (CHF 200,000)

Yet another multihued creation is on offer from Jacquet Droz – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch. Rather than comprising a single piece of enamel, its kaleidoscopic plique-à-jour dial is actually a composite of multiple differently coloured and shaped cells, all held in place by gold wire cloisons. Housed in an 18K red-gold case, its Jacquet Droz 2625SQ self-winding movement is enticingly visible through its caseback.

Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch (CHF 480,000)

Taking the rainbow motif to new heights is the Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch by Zenith. Housing an El Primero 9020 movement, rainbow PVD coats its bridges and watch hands, and the hour markers are burnished in a special rainbow varnish. This unique 46mm sapphire-crystal creation also comes with a special Felipe Pantone watch box autographed by the artist.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch (CHF 620,000)

Taking inspiration from the fauna of Planet Earth, meanwhile, is independent label MB&F’s HM10 Panda Only Watch, which, as its name implies, boasts a case contoured to mimic the bamboo-eating mammal. Powered by an in-house HM10 calibre movement, the two black eyes are inhabited by aluminium time-displays, while the teeth indicate the power reserve. Its top is coated with black and white lacquer reminiscent of the animal’s fur coat, while a matching strap completes its panda appeal.

Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype (CHF 2.1 million)

Finally, there’s Richard Mille’s RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype. Named after the eponymous F1 racing driver, the timepiece proudly sports his red and white colours, as evidenced by the white and red Quartz TPT case, a proprietary composite materials that is particularly shock resistant. Fitted with a calibre CRMA7 movement and its lightest straps ever, this innovative watch packs a visual punch without ever weighing down the wrist.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction)

Highlights from Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Important Watches auction

While many were still dazzled by the National Day fireworks that lit up the sky in early October, the region’s haute horology enthusiasts were gearing up for yet another Major Event – Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Autumn Sale. As ever, this saw a horde of high-earning horologists gather in eager anticipation of bidding for one or more of the hundreds of timeless timepieces – from classic chronometers to wacky one-off watches – going under the gavel during the event’s Important Watches auction.

One of the most talked-about lots was undoubtedly Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon. Billed as the most mechanically-complex chronogram ever created by the legendary Swiss watchmaker, its eye-catching white gold case houses a staggering 12 complications, including a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, a moon phase, a sky chart and a minute repeater. Coming complete with a calibre 89 movement and a deep-blue dial, only five watches comprise this very limited edition.

Another key lure for big-spending bidders at Poly Auction Hong Kong was a collection of rare Zodiac-inspired timepieces from Vacheron Constantin. Dubbed the Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, each of the 12 pieces in the set features hand-carved masks as a cultural nod to the more baroque traditions that once prevailed in such far-flung locations as Tibet, Java, Gabon and the Congo. While otherwise unique, four incisions on the dial of each watch show the day, date, hours and minutes, with each design also featuring an engraved verse courtesy of Michel Butor, the renowned French writer.

Vacheron Constantin's Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Collection — *Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Collection*

Cartier is another marque that has had occasion to eschew the traditional dial style, as exemplified by its Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier – Cockatiel, one of this year’s other leading lots. With almost every inch of this limited-edition ladies’ watch dazzlingly decked with diamonds and sapphires, its look is heightened still further by the bejeweled rose gold cockatiel perched enticingly on its sapphire crystal case.

Cartier's Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier – Cockatiel — *Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier – Cockatiel*

Never one to be outdone, Jacob & Co.’s Brilliant Flying Tourbillon is another timepiece sure to set tongues wagging at Poly Auction Hong Kong’s Important Watches showcase. A staggering 330 baguette-cut pink sapphires grace this 18-piece limited release model’s case, crown and dial, while a further 346 brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the movement’s splint, with all of them eminently evident via its transparent caseback.

Equally alluring was an offering from Richard Mille – the Ref. RM003 AO Ti-CA. Taking its inspiration from Abu Dhabi’s Formula One track, this elegant wrist adornment features the Yas Marina Circuit’s signature white and blue hues on its inner bezel and straps, while a map of the race track keeps things interesting on its caseback. In keeping with the Swiss label’s love of all things outré, its entire tonneau-shaped case has been constructed from North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT) carbon, apparently a first in the world of watchmaking.

Another lot boasting the very finest horological craftsmanship was HYT (Hydro Mechanical Horologists)’s Skull – Guns N’ Roses Edition. Despite its status as something of a newcomer, having only entered the market in 2012, HYT’s trademark hydraulic movements have already won it legions of devoted followers, including Axl Rose, the lead singer of LA rockers Guns N’ Roses, who actually designed this piece. Featuring a dominant skull dial motif ringed by a water-filled capillary, its way of telling time sees the water level passing the corresponding hour markers as the day progresses.

Of course, it wasn’t all about recently-released avant garde timepieces, with several fine vintage watches that harked back to a far more understatedly elegant era also up for auction. Taking pride of place among these carefully-curated classics was a 1947 Rolex Cloisonné Enamel “Dragon”, featuring a unique cloisonné enamel dragon motif created in partnership with Stern Frères, the legendary Swiss dial maker. One of only five such watches ever created, this rare artefact has become somewhat synonymous with the very best of post-WWII horological precision engineering.

*Vintage 1947 Cloisonné Enamel “Dragon” by Rolex*

From bejewelled designs and outré models to historic timepieces from yesteryears, Poly Auction Hong Kong’s expansive Autumn Sale did indeed boast a fine selection of rare high-end watches, many of them guaranteed to tempt even the most discerning of collectors. It was a strategy that paid huge dividends for the auction house, with its total takings for the day said to be in the region of HK$900 million.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

SIHH Highlights: Our favourite timepieces from the Geneva watch fair

Every year, a select band of haute horology enthusiasts set off, pilgrim-style, to explore the wonders of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva’s annual and highly-exclusive watch-fest.

Set two months before the mighty Baselworld, the January-held SIHH gives all true chronographic aficionados their first opportunity to get a sense of how the year is likely to sit in the annals of all things timepiece.

And, if the 2018 event was anything to go by, the next 12 months are set to prove vintage for all those rightly mesmerised by fine mechanical movements. Overall, a staggering number of designs, with intricacy and intrigue matched in equal parts, made their debut in Switzerland’s second city. While it would be folly to try and list all of the event’s highlights in one brief article, a few items clearly merited particular mention.

Resurrected, re-invented classics always receive a warm welcome at the SIHH with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Duoface proving no exception. Reviving the marque’s iconic flippable Reverso face – a feature that debuted back in 1931 – the new model fetchingly mounts that self-same flipping mechanism on twotoned leather straps by Casa Fagliano, the rightly-famed Argentinean bootmaker.

Its slate-grey front dial ably displays hours, minutes and seconds, while its silvered Clous de Paris guilloché back features an additional day-night indicator. With the words “Limited Edition – One of 100” etched into its caseback, it simply couldn’t be more of a collectors’ item.

Ulysses Nardin, too, opted to immerse itself in its own regal past, taking its Diver Deep Dive model – one of the most famous manifestations of its legendary prowess in the nautically-engineered sector – to a whole new level. Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, this high-performance timepiece makes full use of the company’s proprietary UN-230 movement, while flaunting its maritime credentials through hammerheads on its crown guard, dial counter and caseback.

Vacheron Constantin, meanwhile, chose to revisit its more recent past with a comparatively swift upgrade to its 2005 masterpiece – the Tour de l’Ile. This fresh take – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication ‘Ornementale’ – is simply audacious and boasts 16 unique complications.

While its front dial – resplendent with a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and sunrise/sunset indicators – is fulsome enough, its true beauty can be found on the caseback, where a dizzying array of astronomical complications await. At its very epicenter lies a fascinating sky chart, richly encircled by season, zodiac and moon phases indices.

Despite such worthy contenders, the timepiece that truly topped the tribute list was A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Homage to Walter Lange. More than just a touching homage to the brand’s late chairman, it’s also a fastidious reinvention of the jumping seconds complication, an innovation first introduced more than 150 years ago.

Moving from the celebratory to the more outré, this year’s SIHH featured a timely treat for watchloving women the world over in the sprightly form of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planétarium. This diamond-studded 38mm white gold watch features miniaturised models of Mercury, Venus and the Earth, all orbiting around a centrally-set ‘sun’ in real time.

For its part, Richard Mille opted for something a little more gentlemanly, with its RM53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough proving an apt ode to the world of that true Sport of Kings – polo. Created in partnership with Donough, one of the sport’s finest practitioners, the RM53-01 is supremely smash-resistant and boasts a striking suspended tourbillon in its open-faced dial.

Overall, though, if pushed, it would have to be conceded that the most unconventional timepiece on show came courtesy of Stepan Sarpaneva, an independent Finnish watchmaker, and MB&F, one of Switzerland’s more progressive ateliers, and took the unmistakable form of the MoonMachine 2.

Acknowledged as experimental high-end watchmaking at its very best, its futuristic open-worked dial and distinctive trapezium-style bezel was only topped by its projected moon phase display, something of a first in the world of haute horology – and something that proved an apt reward for the many who found their way to the 2018 SIHH in search of something truly timeless.

Text: Tenzing Thondup