Tag: Restaurant

High Table Stakes: Are the number of best restaurant trophies awarded today muddying the chef’s soup?

Chef-humanitarian and 2024 Nobel Peace Prize nominee José Andrés famously defended the relevance of culinary awards, saying: “I love what it’s done elevating the profession.” If chefs are the new rock stars, there’s now a stage for them, their ideas and causes. Certainly, awards for chefs and their restaurants have received greater scrutiny in recent years, since they are now held responsible for wider changes. Any award must, by definition, condense multiple servings of exceptional skill and intricacy into a shortlist consisting of one choice per category, a single No. 1 or ‘Restaurant of the Year.’ For the eating and travelling public, who don’t spend all day (and night) discussing restaurants professionally, these honours are practical distillations.

What began as an evaluation of ‘best’ and excellence has expanded to include more than simply food and service. These days, any organisation that bestows culinary gongs must take responsibility for humanitarian causes and industry trends. Too much wokeness? Maybe. But in these times of instant communication, being overly informed is preferable to not giving any care at all.

More awards mean more chances. Awards are inherently limiting – there are only so many categories to spotlight, so many new names, women and people of colour who can be singled out without sacrificing integrity or lengthening the duration of the gala presentation.

So, is another round of chef awards really necessary? Similar to how there is no one ultimate authority on international film, there is no one body that has exclusive rights dishing out culinary honours, though three of the most well- known worldwide – Michelin, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and the James Beard Foundation – still live up to the clamour they receive.

Working wonders

Dining awards are a fantastic way to promote a restaurant and raise employee morale. They also bring in new consumers and increase the number of repeat patrons. First off, the press attention for the winners is immense as the awards are advertised in local media, and local and international media will report on the event and publish chef profiles and dining features, which in turn feed the restaurant’s own marketing machine. Awards such as Diners’ Choice by Chope frequently work with influential local and media figures to announce the winners, generating publicity that will benefit the lucky recipients.

Another gain is that it attracts diners outside of the usual clientele. Dining awards target locals who will patronise the restaurant business. Appearing on an awards list ensures more awareness and, for the winners, may result in free entitlements such as email marketing, social media postings and blog articles. For example, each Diners’ Choice restaurant winner in Singapore and Hong Kong is entitled to marketing credits, posts on Facebook and Instagram, and web and app placements to drive traffic into the dining room.

It also brings in tourists. When searching for ‘Best restaurants in (country name)’, one will undoubtedly find a list by a top travel or local publication of enticing places to dine. Many of these listicles are penned by food journalists who want to put a country on the world map, selecting restaurants that have internationally recognised awards.

The buzz beyond

Culinary award-giving bodies not only exist to celebrate excellence in the world of food and dining but also strive to make a positive impact on society. Through their philanthropic initiatives, they aim to address pressing social issues, promote sustainability, foster diversity and inclusion, and encourage responsible practices.

Exhibit A: the Michelin Guide collaborating with StreetSmart to combat homelessness in the UK. Diners at participating restaurants have the option to donate £1, which is added to their bill.

Funds collected through this initiative are then distributed to specialist charities that assist those living on the streets, catering to their basic needs and providing resources, mentoring and skills training. By covering StreetSmart’s operational costs, sponsors ensure that every penny raised directly benefits those in need.

The James Beard Awards in the US, which promote and nurture talent, sustainability and diversity, are another example of awarders extending their remit beyond the plate. The New York-headquartered James Beard Foundation provides scholarships and mentorship programmes to aspiring chefs and food professionals, fostering education and empowering the next generation of culinary talent. It also promotes sustainability by encouraging farm-to-table sourcing and reducing food waste, thereby minimising the industry’s environmental impact. In addition, the James Beard Awards recognise chefs from diverse backgrounds, celebrating their contributions to American cuisine and highlighting the importance of diversity and inclusion in the culinary world.

Launched in 2022 to honour top chefs, restaurants and culinary destinations, the World Culinary Awards aim to encourage culinary tourism, cultural exchange and collaboration among chefs worldwide. Such initiatives not only elevate industry standards but also promote cross-cultural understanding and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.

Launched in 2022 to honour top chefs, restaurants and culinary destinations, the World Culinary Awards aim to encourage culinary tourism, cultural exchange and collaboration among chefs worldwide. Such initiatives not only elevate industry standards but also promote cross-cultural understanding and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.

The Good Food Awards, established in 2002 by the UK publication The Good Food Guide, recognises products that achieve a harmonious balance between superior taste and responsible practices. Winners meet rigorous environmental and social responsibility standards, showcasing their commitment to building strong, healthy communities through good food. By honouring craftsmanship, flavour and sustainability, the Good Food Awards inspire consumers to make conscious choices and support businesses that prioritise ethical and sustainable practices.

Food for thought

Awards are fun too – though those chefs whose dreams of earning a Michelin star were crushed this year may not agree. They celebrate the industry as a whole and recognise people who are great at what they do, whether they are actually the best or not.

What does ‘best’ even mean? The 46-year- old baker who makes the freshest bagels every morning in a shop along the Kennedy Town tramway; the 77-year-old owner of an excellent sisig restaurant in Pampanga in the Philippines; and the mother and daughter who have served egg waffles beside the Macau Cathedral since the ’80s, to name just a few, all deserve to be called the best.

As Nobel nominee Chef Andrés would say: “Women are the ones who feed the world. Not big male chefs and not even famous female chefs… but everyday women. If awards become too exclusive, it loses the magic effect. And while we, restaurant chefs, feed the few, at the end of the day, all others who feed the many should be recognised the same.”

Food has the power to bring people together, and by embracing culinary inclusivity, we can create a more diverse and inclusive society. So, let’s celebrate the power of food and use it as a tool to connect, learn, and grow together. And are culinary awards good things? As long as the quest for a medallion does not get in the way of the central job – serving the people.

Sparkling Water: An Architect of flavours, Chef Ilaria Zamperlin showcases her passion for culinary artistry

The majority of us will, of course, prioritise the food when choosing a place for dinner. For some, though, the locale plays an equally important role in the overall dining experience; hence these restaurants frequently become attractions unto themselves. In the bustling city of Hong Kong, where culinary experiences abound, Aqua stands tall as an iconic destination – letting diners not only savour artistic dishes but also drink in exceptional sceneries.

At this awe-inspiring 17th-floor haven nestled almost atop H Zentre on the tip of Tsim Sha Tsui, diners are immersed in the unparalleled elegance of Italian cuisine, with its rich heritage and sophisticated flavours, while simultaneously meandering into the captivating realm of Japanese gastronomy, where tradition and innovation harmoniously coexist.

Aqua – Main Dining Room

Aqua recently made waves in gastronomic circles with the announcement of a new Executive Chef, Ilaria Zamperlin. With her arrival, the storied Hong Kong culinary landmark embarks on a new chapter, blending Italian and Japanese cuisines under the watchful eyes of separate master chefs. As the first female chef to helm the Italian kitchen, Zamperlin brings her architectural background and two decades of culinary expertise to Aqua with the promise of a compelling dining experience.

“I think that cooking is very much like architecture; it’s all about laying down the perfect foundation,” she says. “At school, I would study different designs and prepare a series of sketches just for one project. I still do that with cooking. Precision and attention to detail are very important because my kitchen needs to replicate the same dishes every day. We need to make sure the foundations of the dish are there every time.”

Confit Suckling Pig, Carrots & Tropea Red Onion Puree and Balsamic Glazed Pear

Known for her ‘elevated Italian simplicity’, the chef has introduced a collection of Italian dishes on a new à la carte menu that moves from Rome to Tokyo. Among the many edible arts are appetisers of sweet Alaskan king crab dressed with caviar and green apple, and Sicilian red prawn carpaccio married with sea urchin and egg yolk emulsion.

Dover Sole Mugniaia Style, Carrot Puree, Crispy Leeks, Lemon and Caper Sauce

Pasta highlights include Braised duck ravioli and the Sicilian classic Tortelli ‘norma’, stuffed with creamy eggplant and served with the holy tricolour of Italy’s flag expressed through basil, aged ricotta and date tomato confit. Awash with deep flavours of the sea is the vibrant Champagne and lobster bisque risotto served tableside with baby squid, scallops and red prawns. A main of Dover sole, prepared in the mugnaia manner, is accompanied by crispy leeks, carrot purée and an enticing sauce of lemon and capers.

Tortelli ‘Norma’ with Eggplant, Aged Ricotta Sauce, Confit Date Tomatoes and Basil

With new creations like seared squid with prawn tempura roll; salmon, yellowtail, tuna and cream cheese roll with caviar; and homemade Abalone isoyaki with sea grape and tiger prawn sushi, Aqua’s Japanese kitchen, led by Executive Chef Iwahashi Tastuya, also offers a refreshing take on seafood.

The intimate low-lighting and laid-back atmosphere of the restaurant calls out for cocktails and thankfully, Aqua Spirit’s glamorous rooftop bar is happy to supply. There’s also something about the mirrored glass foyer, embellished with modern light fixtures, that feels very titillating, and the dining hall, full of pomp, buzzes with energy until closing. All these factors are reflected in this new Aqua menu.

Aqua – Garden Terrace

“The ingredients, the shape, the texture – honestly, there are so many components that go into one dish,” expounds Zamperlin. “For me, sparking curiosity is key when it comes to making the perfect dish. Sometimes, it can be a simple recipe, but the aroma of fresh ingredients and the presentation can spark intrigue and surprise from the moment it touches the table to the first bite, leading to satisfaction.”

Boundaries fade away on a gastronomic journey that transcends borders and cultures. Seamlessly blending Eastern and Western, Aqua allows diners the freedom to curate their own culinary adventure, where each bite tells a story of harmonious fusion.

Aqua, 17/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 3427 2288. aqua.com.hk

Rice Rhapsody: In a city where rice is life, Sushi Haru’s Chef Hirokuni Shiga orchestrates a masterful omakase

As Asians, we tend to gravitate to a bowl of piping hot rice to satisfy our hunger at any time of the day. But there’s the undeniable draw of something more, for which sushi, Japan’s heart of culinary offerings, sparks an entirely new love affair. The presence of countless establishments paying homage to the intricacies and revelations of Japan’s heart of culinary offerings underscores the Hong Kong craving for raw fish atop vinegared rice.

Taking over the hinoki wood dining counter of just exactly eight seats, Chef Hirokuni Shiga is flexing his faultless sense of taste at the intimate setting of Sushi Haru, at the top of Wyndham Street in Central. This humble master of Edomae sushi began his career at his family’s kappo-style restaurant and it wasn’t until he was in his early 20s that, at the invitation of his father’s friend, he had his first encounter with omakase sushi. He began an apprenticeship, and from then on, his imaginative culinary creations have captivated diners.

”What I think makes us stand out is that I am able to incorporate everything I have learned in kappo and kaiseki dining into the dishes I serve,” says Shiga, who doesn’t shy from sharing his own story from behind the counter. “For example, depending on the piece of fish I am serving, I use different types of rice and details like this help to shape the guest’s experience.”

Both Hong Kong and Japan are known for wearing their history as a badge of honour. Although it may seem that tradition and modernity are forever in flux, Sushi Haru manages to pay homage to the past while expressing a contemporary vibe. The Zen aesthetic is further enhanced by a display of minimal-themed, charcoal- based framed drawings and a grey and brown colour combination – the only two hues evident throughout the restaurant.

But of course, there’s the sushi, the main star of the show, as well as the chef showing off his knife skills while finely slicing a selection of seafood. His kitchen balances flavour and subtlety without coming off at all gimmicky and then splashes of vivid, varied colour are served dish after dish. Think akami (lean red tuna), shiromi (white fish), nimono (simmered fish), kai (shellfish), ika (squid), tako (octopus), ebi (shrimp), kani (crab) and gyoran (fish roe).

But of all these sensational toppings, it’s the hikarimono (silver-skinned fish) that Shiga names as his personal favourite. “I am most proud of our kohada [gizzard shad] and kasugo [young sea bream] because, although they are the most labour- intensive, the hard work can be tasted in the result,” he says. “Oftentimes, in the world of sushi, a true test of a sushi chef is in how they prepare kohada.”

There’s also good news for newcomers to East Asia who have yet to master chopsticks. “You can eat with your fingers or you can use chopsticks,” he adds, smiling. The dexterous chef also beguiles his audience with his step-by-step method of assembling a perfectly shaped sushi, which involves gently pressing the fish onto the rice.

In between exquisite bites, sake and beer add a smooth, subtle sweetness to the night’s bouquet of flavours. Shiga, who is often caught raising a glass or two with his audience, also brings a citrusy kick via a fruit-infused sake to the table.

“Sushi, if you are to just look at it, is not too complicated, but the amount of care that is put into it should always be reflected on the faces of your guests,” he emphasises. “That is when you know you have succeeded.”

The looks of joyous satisfaction around the table as our omakase feast concludes is a testament to both Sushi Haru and Chef Hirokuni Shiga’s triumph. Rice will always be appealing anywhere on this side of the world, but Sushi Haru truly goes far beyond satisfying a craving.

Sushi Haru, Mezzanine, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2111 1450

Photos: Jack Fontanilla / Sushi Haru Video: Jack Fontanilla

Whey Ahead: Chef Barry Quek puts an astonishing new spin on Singaporean fusion at Whey

With one Michelin star under his belt, or apron, Barry Quek is one of a new generation of Asian chefs trained in European cuisine who are reclaiming the tropes of Singaporean fusion food. By honouring the various cultures that coexist in his homeland, incorporating new ingredients and embracing the curiosity of crossover, Quek’s reinterpretations of traditional fare celebrate his Lion City heritage in exciting, emotional and unexpected ways.

An elegant play on the humble rattan as a reflection of his regionally inspired cuisine is unmissable upon stepping into Whey, his smart restaurant in Central. The woven expanses of rattan represent the craft, the human touch and the vernacular – all qualities that resonate with his dining concept. Domed rattan along the ceiling is juxtaposed with brass accents, and oak veneers compliment the overall tonality while bringing a sense of intimacy to the space.

“The idea for this restaurant is to pay homage to my Hokkien roots,” says Quek. “Growing up, I really enjoyed eating my mom’s homemade food. Both the ambience and the food I prepare here are reflections of my own upbringing.”

Echoing the interior design conviction of realising new, meaningful encounters with old, modest materials, the recently launched spring menu is the real star of this gastronomic show. Its prologue, Ang Mo Kio, which is Hokkien for tomatoes, is presented as a tomato tartlet. Inside a thin, crispy shell are layers of semi-dried tomatoes and fermented tomato jelly, a whole, softly pickled cherry tomato, and basil oil. The tart is then garnished with a variety of herbs and edible flowers, such as oregano and ginger flower powder.

The restaurant also considers sustainability, and this eco-aware ethos is perfectly exemplified by its name. The liquid leftovers after milk has curdled is called whey and is frequently thrown away. Chef Quek, however, sees it as just the component to modify and enhance dishes and cocktails. Food waste is reduced by using every possible ingredient in inventive creations and unheard-of combinations.

Enter Spring Peas and Mackerel. Plated in a wooden bowl and surrounded by fresh and raw vegetable garnishes, this dish showcases fresh spring peas and unripe strawberries. These are paired with slightly torched mackerel, whose salty, flaky meat further amplifies the delicate sweetness of the produce and the accompanying creamy whey sauce. A drizzle of leek oil brings it all together with a subtle earthy undertone.

Most notable for the smoke wafting from the dry ice used in its presentation, Di Har is stacked to let diners experience textures in each bite, from the calamansi jelly and mousse base to the shrimps and caviar on top. It is followed by a creamy soup of White Asparagus, which is given a jolt of texture from the chewy bamboo clams and the roasted candlenuts.

Asked how Whey stands out from its competitors, Quek confidently claims that Whey’s Brioche makes his kitchen distinctive. He says: “When eaten together with the rich, silky buah keluak emulsion, the combination is a one-of-a-kind experience that keeps diners coming back for more.”

Served on a no-fuss white porcelain plate, Threadfin Fish is grilled over charcoal until the skin is crispy. A velvety layer of potato mousse, spring-onion oil, coconut XO sauce and sambal chilli acts as a surprise number underneath.

Ji Fan, Whey’s interpretation of Hainanese chicken rice, is a new main addition inspired by his grandmother’s Chinese roots. A refined version of a Singaporean staple, Dry Curry Laksa Mee is elevated by baby shrimp and grilled abalone, with each noodle strand soaking up the rich, aromatic laksa sauce.

Peanut Ice Cream reimagines essential components of achar salad to produce an unconventional flavour combination from fresh and fermented pineapple, peanut praline bits and chillies.

Through these edible cultural elements, its modern glass-panel partitions and Scandinavian blinds, Whey captures the sophisticated confluence of East and West. It is this well-executed convergence that not only bestows its unique flair but also cleverly represents the diverse cultural makeup of the Central neighbourhood.

Location: Whey, UG/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: +852 2693 3198.

Photos: Whey, Video: Jack Fontanilla

Chef-owner of Table by Sandy Keung on conscious seasonal cuisine

Chef-owner of seasonal-based restaurant TABLE, Sandy Keung not only puts consciousness in her cuisine, but is also leading the way for a healthier, more sustainable way of eating.

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Sandy Keung in a Cara cutout pleated crepe jumpsuit by Alice + Olivia, courtesy of THE OUTNET

Could you tell us about your background before opening TABLE by Sandy Keung?

I grew up in Hong Kong but moved to New York for school. I was a trained accountant and a hedge fund manager. I moved to Vietnam to do investment for the hedge fund before moving back here after three years. I became CFO for a listed company before leaving finance to open TABLE by Sandy Keung.

When did your passion for cooking begin?
When I was living in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, I had a large apartment with a gorgeous view and a beautiful kitchen. I would often entertain friends and colleagues and cook for them. I would get compliments for the dishes I prepared, and thought to myself, ‘perhaps this is something I could do as a profession’.

What made you decide to take the plunge?
I started to really enjoy cooking. So, I decided to test the waters. If things didn’t work out, I always had my finance background to fall back on. I volunteered to work in a French restaurant in Ho Chi Minh to see if it was really something I could adopt as a profession. In 2014, I left my career and CFO position and started Table by Sandy Keung.

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What is the concept behind the restaurant?
When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and it wasn’t reflective of my own upbringing and background. So, I thought, ‘why don’t I just focus on the ingredients instead’?

I decided to start an ingredient-based cuisine where we take ingredients that are in season and apply the best treatment and cooking method for them. I realise that this is quite a Hong Kong approach. After all, we are a melting pot of different things.
I think over the years people have gotten used to eating seasonal items from all over the world. To me, eating seasonally is also eating locally-sourced ingredients. I believe when you choose something that is in harmony with your environment, it contributes to your wellbeing – that is the true purpose of eating seasonally.

I guess as my culinary journey evolves, I’ve become more conscious about sustainability and going back to my roots – reflecting on what seasonality means, and what it means to eat seasonally. I explored traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and the principles of man and nature in harmony. In TCM, we believe that besides eating certain things that will contribute to our general well-being, there are also certain parts of the body – internal organs – that match with that particular season. For example, in summer it’s actually best for us to nourish the heart, so we should eat something that is cooling to combat the heat and lower the blood pressure.

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Sandy Keung in a Net Sustain one-sleeve cady maxi dress by ESSE Studios, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER

What does this perspective mean for Table?
I’m taking Table a step further. Instead of just ‘Ingredient-based Cuisine’, I now define it as ‘Conscious Ingredient-based Cuisine’. It’s more than just the ingredients, we are more conscious of every step of the process involved, from intention to environment to the people. I realised that it is difficult to ask people to order a lot of vegetables, especially when you go to a seafood restaurant like mine. So, what I have started doing is incorporating seasonal local vegetables that Hongkongers have grown up with and are familiar with, such as bitter melon, winter melon and wax gourd (which are cooling for the body during the summer season) and added them into our daily soup or as part of an amuse bouche, so diners don’t really have a choice. [laughs]

This is not to say that we shouldn’t eat meat or seafood, but we do need ingredients that balance and nourish the right part of our body and mind, which is my way of gently pushing my guests to have a healthier and more balanced meal. Also, these are ingredients that you probably won’t see in a western restaurant. I like to think that this makes Table by Sandy Keung’s cuisine uniquely Hong Kong and uniquely Sandy’s.

“When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and not reflective of my own upbringing” background”

Table by Sandy Keung treats its shellfish via depuration. Why is this important?
Depuration is actually a popular process of using non-thermal techniques to purify seafood naturally. This basically provides the shellfish with a cleaner and more appropriate environment, with the right temperature, pH level and salinity. This way the shellfish can naturally filter their metabolic waste and accumulated pollutants – offering cleaner and safer seafood for eating.
Considering that the city imports over 90 percent of live seafood from Europe, North America and other places far and near via “dry” shipping, for the time it takes the shellfish to arrive into the city, it is essential, in my opinion, that we do depuration upon arrival. Otherwise, it’s like not having a shower or going to the bathroom for three days.

Unfortunately, it is a process that isn’t well known in Hong Kong yet. Although they are used in modern swimming pools, such as those in hotels, or in high-end recreational fish aquariums, they aren’t used for food safety, which comes as a surprise to me since it is very common in Europe for water and shellfish treatment to improve food safety.

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Sandy Keung in a ruffled silk-organza blouse by ZIMMERMANN, courtesy of THE OUTNET; Babette organic cotton-blend twill wide-leg pants by Iris & Ink, courtesy of THE OUTNET

You also founded Good BBQ. Could you tell us more.
Good BBQ is a chain of siu mei restaurants (Hong Kong-style roast meat). I love siu mei and I would love to see this local favourite expand beyond our borders. We are actually opening a location in London in the near future which is very exciting, as I get to see this iconic Hong Kong dish reach other cities.

Do you have any advice for those planning to enter the F&B industry?
In any change you wish to make, ask yourself if this is something you can imagine yourself doing as a job. It’s one thing to enjoy doing something, it’s something entirely different when you have to do it for work. My advice is to try it out, before you decide.

Is there any particular memory that reminds you of your purpose as a chef?
There was one occasion during the pandemic when dining out was under strict restrictions. One of our regular customers had wanted to cheer up his elderly mother for not having been out for a long time. He had wanted to treat her to our signature crab rice on a Sunday, but because we were closed. So, he had asked our manager if he could pick up the dish the day before and be given instructions on how to reheat it instead. Instead, I told him to ask the guest, if he was truly serious about coming in on a Sunday, I would come in to cook the dish for him to pick up on the day. I feel joy and am grateful being able to be an instrument for a son to show love to his mother, or for people to share happiness through my food.

On a bad day, what is your go-to comfort food?
I like unwinding after a long day of service, especially after the Christmas rush, with some caviar. It’s like a little pat on the back for a hard day’s work.

What dish best represents Hong Kong?
I think siu mei dishes like roasted goose, roast pork and barbeque rice are iconic staples of Hong Kong and perfectly represents the city.

Thank you.

 

Interview by: Roberliza Eugenio; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Jackie Chan; Hair and Make up: Heti Tsang; Venue: Arclinea FSS and Officine Gullo Flagship Store @ESSERE

Piece Meal: A delicious multi-course omakase at Sushi Yonjugo

Walking along the bustling sidewalks of Soho’s Staunton Street, you’d be forgiven for overlooking the minimalist wood facade of Sushi Yonjugo, the newest Japanese eatery courtesy of Infinity Entertainment Group. But don’t let its subtle entrance fool you, because inside you’ll find one of the finest omakase restaurants to be had in the SAR. And, as any discerning diner is aware, this is quite a claim indeed.

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Helming the small, brightly appointed 9-seater is Chef Milton Lau, a 35-year veteran of the art of Edomae-style sushi who has honed his craft with stints in Japan, Italy, the US and Australia. Under his guidance, the ever-changing tasting menu offers even experienced epicureans new culinary treats with every visit. For the uninitiated, omakase (roughly translating to ‘leave it up to you’) is a Japanese meal where each and every dish is selected by the chef without any set menu.

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To ensure the consistency of his high-calibre offerings, Chef Lau is up well before the sun. “I speak to Japan’s best producers at 4am every morning and make sure that the high-quality ingredients are transported to our restaurant by 10am,” he explains. What results is an expansive experience that spans some 18 to 19 separate courses, available for both lunch (HK$1,580 per person) and dinner (HK$2,280 per head).

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Charismatic and attentive, the personable chef started off our own tasting with the impressively plated Hanasaki Crab. A deliciously refreshing appetiser that’s just perfect to beat the summer heat, it featured chilled shredded meat topped with whole slivers of crab laced enticingly with a rich roe sauce that imparted a lovely rich texture – a guaranteed hit with any fan of this luxurious shellfish.

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Next to arrive was the Tuna Jaw, an unusual section of what is perhaps the most popular sushi fish in the world. Rather than being served raw, the jaw, in this instance, was thoroughly cooked, doing away with the strong oceanic notes and replacing them with a gelatinous, almost meaty consistency that was as surprising as it was welcome. Accompanying the plate was a selection of condiments – lemon, spicy shredded radish, lemon and soy sauce – all heightening the tuna’s inherent flavour with aplomb.

Following this, we were served a series of freshly prepared sushi. Once again, Chef Lau revealed the depth of his seafood knowledge, eschewing commonly found fish in favour of more exotic fare. First, there was the Baby Sardine Sushi, a buttery and creamy concoction that emanates just a hint of smoky bitterness. Then, we sampled the Baraccuda Sushi, whose freshly grilled flesh was given a dash of richness thanks to a sprinkle of dried egg roe. Rounding out the trio was the Omi Wagyu Sushi, all melt-in-your-mouth umami goodness.

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Last but certainly not least, the final standout of our tasting was undoubtedly the Italy-inspired Tuna Carpaccio. Light and refreshing, it possesses a tangy creaminess that is somewhat tempered with the judicious addition of seaweed rolls. A self-confessed homage to his years in Italy, this unique fusion of East-meets-West is proof positive that experimentation – when done well – can yield results far greater than the sum of its parts.

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G/F, 35B Staunton Street, Central.
(852) 3689 1045
sushiyonjugo.com

 

(Text and photo : Tenzing Thondup)

Two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club unveils sumptuous new tasting menu

Amid the hustle and bustle of Central’s busy streets comes a fine-dining Cantonese cuisinary that has elevated the city’s traditional fare to new heights. We are speaking, of course, of Ying Jee Club, the two Michelin-starred restaurant located on Connaught Road’s Nexxus Building. Part of the ZS Hospitality Group – which owns four other Central-set restaurants including Lee Lo Mei, Moi Moi and Sakana No Aji – it recently upped the epicurean stakes even further with the unveiling of an all-new seasonal tasting menu.

Two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club interiors

Personally curated by Chef Siu Hin Chi, the culinary genius who has collected 15 Michelin stars in the past decade, the new tasting menu at Ying Jee Club serves up seven separate courses that each boast a unique flavour profile. Yet, when taken as a whole, the experience is nothing so much as an homage to the very best of Cantonese culinary traditions and ingredients.

The line-up opened with Chilled Sliced Sea Whelk with Jelly Fish and Caviar, Wok-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu Beef with Scallion and Soy Sauce. A two-part appetiser that blends succulent seafood morsels with heartier bites of melt-in-your-mouth beef, it deftly showcased Chef Siu’s ability to create dishes that are far greater than the sum of their parts.

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Then it was onto back-to-back lobster courses. First up was Baked Lobster with Cheese and Garlic, which sees baby lobsters baked in a heavenly garlicky concoction and topped with cheese. An umami bomb from start to finish, it served as a perfect counter point to the next dish – Steamed Whole Lobster with Egg White and “Hua Diao”. Here, subtlety was the name of the game, with the steamed egg custard and lobster bites enhanced and sweetened with the judicious use of hua diao, a traditional Chinese yellow wine.

To follow, and in a knowing nod to local appetites, was Braised South African Abalone with Pork Belly and Vegetable in Oyster Sauce. Once again, Chef Siu’s adept handling of his ingredients sees the tender pork belly and delicate abalone merge to form a superbly mouth-watering dish.

Ying Jee Club new tasting menu 2

Next to hove into view was Poached Fish Maw with Wolfberry in Chicken Broth, a deliciously wholesome dish that called nothing to mind so much as a childhood favourite reborn – albeit with a fine-dining twist – before the final savoury course arrived tableside: Fried Rice with Barbecue Pork, Roast Duck, Shrimp, Crispy Conpoy and Vegetables. Boasting an amalgam of flavours and textures that came together in a uniquely cohesive manner, this was Cantonese comfort food at its very finest.

To end proceedings on a truly sweet note, the beautifully presented Ying Jee Dessert was unveiled. From the flaky Lotus Seed Paste Puff and Glutinous Dumpling to the decadent Double Boiled Bird’s Nest with Almond Juice, it served as the perfect sampling platter to satiate the sweet tooth of even the most discerning diner.

Ying Jee Club new tasting menu wine pairing

The new seasonal tasting menu at Ying Jee Club is priced at HK$1,980 per person. Oenophiles can also opt for the wine pairing menu for an additional HK$600 as well.

Ying Jee Club. Shop G05 G/Fl & Shops 107~108, 1/Fl, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd Central.(852)2801 6882. www.yingjeeclub.hk

Dear Lilly opens on IFC mall rooftop after success of Ophelia, Iron Fairies

Ashley Sutton is on a roll. After making his Hong Kong debut nearly two years ago with Ophelia, he has since opened successful establishments J.Boroski, Iron Fairies and Yojimbo in partnership with Dining Concepts. It looks like the man has got a winning formula to answer the often-fickle tastes of 852 denizens. Let’s take a look at his latest venture Dear Lilly, which Gafencu visited last week on its soft opening.

Dear Lilly features Sutton’s characteristic intricate designs, this time a floral wonderland of old photographs, vintage perfume bottles and antique typewriters

The Setting

Dear Lilly’s glass-walled saloon replaces the former Zentro Loft on ifc mall’s rooftop. We were first impressed by the stunning view as we approached the spot, and then inside, by the the elaborate interiors. It was a bit difficult to reconcile the two at the beginning, as both compete for your attention with equally-matched charm.

Sutton obviously tapped his romantic side when coming up with the theme here: prints of love letters from times gone by serve as placemats to your meal (ahem, Dear Lilly). Countless bouquets of dried flowers take up the whole ceiling space. You can even make like Alice in Wonderland climbing into a super-sized jewellery box: that’s the effect you get when getting into the intimate booths housed inside the heart-shaped steel structures. (Fun fact: It apparently took Sutton over two years to recreate his cousins’ old metal jewel boxes large enough to fit people into).

Trinkets hang from the kinetic ceiling at the bar

Eat and drink

We began with cocktails: all pretty as a picture, but some teetering dangerously on the sweet side. 1920s French tipples are the stars of the show here, featuring spirits and liqueurs the likes of lillet blanc and swizzled calvados. 

Food – contemporary European cuisine – was surprisingly well executed compared to the fare at Sutton’s other bars. The Tuna Poke (HK$138) won our palates with its laudable mix of sweet onion vinaigrette, avocado and scallions. The 12-hour Slow Cooked Octopus (HK$128) and honey-glazed Prime Beef Short Ribs (HK$138) are also excellent starter choices.

Vegetarians won’t feel left out with Dear Lilly’s textured Curly Kale Salad (HK$128) and wholesome Mezze Platter (HK$178). The former comes in a rainbow of guilt-free ingredients: quinoa, dry seeds and red radish with orange vinaigrette. The latter features delicious Middle Eastern staples: hummus, baba ganoush, tzatziki, falafel, marinated olives, and grilled halloumi with pita bread.

Dear Lilly offers both a set lunch and an a la carte menu; the set lunch is available as either a two or three-course meal. 

Of the mains, the unanimous favourite was the Wild Mushroom Risotto (HK$178) of black truffle and parmesan. Personally, however, I loved the Puttanesca Pappardelle (HK$188) as I have a weakness for anchovies. If you’re really hungry, don’t hesitate to get the hefty Grill Cornfed Chicken (HK$168) at seriously good value. 

The verdict

Sutton and Dining Concepts decided to make a gamble when they prioritised aesthetic over potential profitability in this ambitious project – a rare and brave decision in Hong Kong’s cutthroat F&B scene. Rather than packing the space with as much dining area as possible, they decided to go with outrageous design elements that aligned with the artist’s vision. Bravo, we say to that.

Dear Lilly definitely got the right mix in for the food menu, but we’re afraid so much going on might detract from the nuances that would otherwise be highlighted. The drinks, meanwhile, need a bit more refining; cocktails look beautiful, but taste-wise, the team could use a hand from the folks at J.Boroski. Other than that, we can’t complain; rather, we’ve made a note to come back and check it out in daylight. We certainly want to see the place again in all its light-washed glory. 

Dear Lilly, Shop 4010, Podium Level 4, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong. 

 

Words: Julienne C. Raboca

FUMI Opening Party: Japanese food culture comes to California Tower

Allan Zeman and Kuninori Matsuda, Consul General of Japan in Hong Kong, welcomed VIP guests and the media to FUMI’s launch party last January 18, 2018. The Japanese restaurant officially opened its doors on the 15th of January, inviting diners to enjoy seasonal menus, many created by celebrity guest chefs from Japan. 

The Japanese character for ‘culture’ was incorporated in FUMI’s name, a nod to the concept’s vision of educating and promoting traditions from the land of the rising sun. The restaurant is planning to host Japanese dance performances, calligraphy demonstrations, sake tasting classes and talks on culinary heritage in the coming year. Watch this space for a restaurant review coming soon!

 
6/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, 30 – 36 D’Aguilar St, Central, Hong Kong. Mon-SAT, 11:30-15:00; 18:00-23:00 info@fumihk.com. (852) 2328 3302. www.fumihk.com

Of Spices and Spirits: Deng G Bistro & Baijiu Bar (Wan Chai)

For the fourth instalment of our Date Night series in Wan Chai (see our last one here), we head to Chengdu Bistro & Baijiu Bar Deng G. The Sichuan specialist celebrated its first anniversary since making its debut in September last year; Gafencu takes stock of where it is a year after it opened its doors.

Best for out-of-towner / traveller dates: Deng G

If your date is looking to try Chinese flavours, Deng G is a flexible and fun venue to go on a culinary adventure. The unassuming setup in Wan Chai’s up-and-coming neighbourhood is divided into two parts: downstairs for the Noodle Workshop and Baijiu Bar, while upstairs for Classic Sichuan dining with plush private room options.

What vibe you want for your night out is completely up to you, but we definitely have some recommendations as to what’s on offer.

For those unfamiliar with the intricacies of regional Chinese cuisine, Sichuan province is famous for its unique and characteristic Mala sauce. Mala involves simmering ingredients with peppercorns, chillies and various spices in oil. The effect is distinguished from Indian or Mexican spices by a mouth feel that is more numbing than burning in sensation.

Think you can handle the heat? Then by all means order from the Mala section of the menu. We had the Deep-fried Fish in Mala Sauce (HK$168), deliciously crisp with heaps of white rice. As Deng G is the only Baijiu** bar in Hong Kong, you might also want to pair your dish with a Baijiu cocktail concocted by award-winning mixologist Héktor Monroy.

A milder but equally delicious recommendation is the Kung Pao Chicken (HK$118), a sweeter dish filed under the “Lychee” (spicy and sweet) section of the menu. Other sections cover “Home” flavours (rustic farmhouse cooking), Sweet & Sour, Pepper Salt and Yu Xiang (aromatic/fragrant) among others.

**Editor’s Note: The infamous Baijiu is a strong, clear distilled spirit, usually with 40-60% alcohol content. It’s fermented from sorghum, rice or other grains. Often characterized and misunderstood as a hard-to-drink liquor, Baijiu can be as complex as a fine whiskey, judged on its colour, aroma and taste.

Deng G is part of the Elite Concepts Dining Group. 2/F 147 Queen’s Rd East, Wan Cha.i (852) 2609 2328. www.elite-concepts.com/en_US/dengg

Stay tuned for our final instalment of the Wan Chai Date Night series coming soon: the stylish and elegant Fishsteria just down the road!

Text: Julienne C. Raboca