Track Stars: Winning watches inspired by supercars past and present

The unrivalled technical and sporting centenary by presenting a special version of its excellence embodied in racing cars is a perfect bedfellow for luxury watches that seek the ultimate in performance standards. These are watches taking their inspiration from the high-octane world of motorsport and high-performance cars.

An extraordinary example is the RM UP- 01 Ferrari spawned by the now two-year-old partnership between Richard Mille and Italian carmaker Ferrari. Thousands of laboratory hours were spent refining a dashboard-like timepiece with total shock resistance and a super-slim 1.75-millimetre sleekness that remains true to the spirit of the marque. Remarkably, this perfectly flat watch retains complete internal movement within the case and boasts a baseplate and skeletonised bridges crafted of grade 5 titanium, a material specifically chosen for its lightness and toughness.

In homage to the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, which celebrated its 100th anniversary this year, Richard Mille has also released a limited-edition RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic. Crafted as per usual in the event’s colours, the 150 watches are flyback chronographs with a patented double oscillating pinion clutch mechanism to maximise performance.

Rolex marked the 24 Hours of Le Mans legendary chronograph adored by the late actor and racing driver Paul Newman. The new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona’s calibre 4132 movement allows for a 24-hour chronograph function (as opposed to the usual 12-hour count) in tribute to the race itself. In addition, the number ‘100’ in red ceramic stands out on the tachymetric scale of this 18-carat gold watch with a brilliant black dial.

Such is the affection and status of the Daytona watch that Rolex has updated the entire range on the occasion of its 60th birthday. All iterations utilise a new chronograph movement via the calibre 4131, with innovations including the patented Chronergy escapement which is resistant to strong magnetic fields, a cut-out oscillating weight and new finishes, especially on the bridges. The new- generation Cosmograph Daytona spans a range of materials from 950 platinum and Oystersteel to 18-carat Everose gold.

Roger Dubuis’ inspiration is the supercar designs of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse, and hot off the blocks, the watchmaker has just released a striking blue Excalibur Spider Huracán Sterrato following last year’s pulsating orange version. The new variation is housed in a 45mm carbon case engineered from a compound nine times lighter than gold – Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) Carbon – then topped by black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) titanium.

A rubber and camouflage pattern strap blends hues of blue and uses a Combined Vulcanisation process for a seamless look. The watch also has 60 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 50 metres. Meanwhile, a new Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph made its debut at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in July.

A month previously, just prior to the start of the annual 1000 Miglia race from Brescia and Rome and back in Italy, four new models of the ongoing Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph collection were unveiled by race sponsor and timekeeper Chopard. Made from Lucent Steel (eco-friendly recycled material more resilient than regular steel), the precision-engineered quartet comes in colours that nod to the paint jobs and interior finishes of the pre-1957 1000 Miglia racers – cherry red, grey blue, light green and racing black. A limited-edition version of the Mille Miglia GTS Chrono has also been released, featuring a large-diameter crown and ‘mushroom’ pushers to aid usage whilst driving.

TAG Heuer has also established a reputation for fine racing watches. With 2023 marking the 60th anniversary of the famous TAG Heuer Carrera, two new models hit the ground running: a Chronograph and Chronograph Tourbillon. The latter is its first ‘Glassbox’ model – domed glass encasing the dial and tachymeter bezel – featuring a tourbillon cage. Technical developments mean the tachymeter scale can now be read from a wider range of angles, whilst improved ergonomics of the stainless-steel case promise increased comfort.

The two new models come with a black or blue circular brushed dial respectively, and incorporate an evolved version of its automatic chronograph calibre, the Heuer 02, that offers bi- directional winding. The Monaco Chronograph and Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue are also TAG Heuer racing models of note.

Clocking into the 70th anniversary of the 1953 Le Mans race, Bremont has introduced a new Jaguar-inspired watch, the C-type, in homage to the car that won it. A stainless-steel case back features a decorative coin depicting a C-type hood badge and five stainless-steel screws with polished heads. It is water-resistant to 200 metres and boasts domed anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Other racy models in the Bremont showroom include the Jaguar MKI, the Williams Racing WR-22 and the WR-45.

Omega’s watches have long adorned the adrenaline-fuelled racetracks of the world and its famous Omega Speedmaster was considered of such a high technical standard that it was worn by Buzz Aldrin on his moon mission. Upgraded and slimmed- down versions of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 were introduced last year, powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9906.

These eight models can claim the iconic Omega column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a rhodium-plated bridge, as well as magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss.

Wrist Pilot: High-fliers can reach for the skies with the latest heritage-inspired aviator watches

The concept of the aviation watches has a long and rich history, stretching back to the onset of the wristwatch just after the turn of the last century. A reliable pilot’s watch was considered a vital and necessary part of the navigational armoury for aviators in the early days of flight.

Louis Cartier is said to have created the first pilot’s watch – Santos de Cartier – in 1904 and in so doing gave famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont something he had longed for: the ability to tell the time whilst flying. Crucially, this allowed him to carry on manning the controls of his plane without having to look at his pocket watch – a revolutionary concept which meant that the rollout of the aviation watch and the wristwatch could be said to have gone hand in hand.

The modern Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece continues to imitate its heritage and engineering detail. The latest iteration features a skeleton movement which includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of an aircraft that soars over the globe. The wingspan reminds of a Demoiselle, the plane designed by Santos-Dumont himself. Also evoking the elegant early 1904 model are a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and a blue cabochon. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton comes in three metals headlined by the yellow gold and navy lacquer version in a prized limited edition.

pilot timepiece — Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42

Another luxury brand with a rich history in aviation watches, Breitling nods to the original 1953 Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot in its latest offerings. The Classic AVI collection uses a 42mm format moulded from the design codes established by the 46mm Super AVI, which itself was inspired by the pioneering Ref. 765 AVI. With the inclusion of a Breitling Calibre 23 chronograph movement, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 is a lighter version of the Super model in response to customer requests and comes without the brawny GMT complications. It comes in colour schemes which pay homage to four legendary aircraft – the Mustang, the naval Corsair, the Warhawk and the Mosquito.

Patek Philippe also dips back in time – though only eight years to the model’s origins in this case – for the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. The new Calatrava pilot’s watch comes with either a sunburst blue-grey or lacquered khaki green dial highlighted by white-gold applied numerals that are recessed and filled with luminescent coating. The skeletonised hand displays the home time while the solid hand indicates local time. Chronograph pushers are positioned at two and four o’clock, with enlarged correction push-pieces for local time at eight and 10 o’clock. Its white-gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire crystal case back, and the calfskin strap matches the dial – either grained navy blue or vintage-finish olive green with contrasting cream stitching.

aviation watches — IWC 388106 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

IWC has a long presence in the aviation sector, soaring back to the 1930s and 1940s, and is proud of its cockpit-instrument look. Essential characteristics of its modern aviator timepieces have remained loyal to the dial design and visual vibe of pre-Second World War models. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features a green dial with luminescent qualities and 10-bar water-resistant properties (100 metres to non-divers). It has a matching green rubber strap and an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 41 mm, making it suitable for slender wrists.

Zenith stated its early intention to be involved in the world of aviation when founder Georges Favre-Jacot saw the dawn of the aviation age and wanted his company to be part of it. It now offers a range of pilot’s watches including the Pilot Big Date Flyback, which boasts a black corrugated dial aid with large luminescent Arabic numerals, and the distinctive Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, distinguished by oversized Arabic numerals and powered by the EI Elite automatic manufacture movement. The Pilot Automatic is considered the template for Zenith’s new generation of pilot watches.

Also Read: Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Though a far cry from the precision ‘Time of Trip’ chronographs designed by Heuer and installed on airplane dashboards during the early years of aviation, the contemporary Tag Heuer Autavia still retains a classic feel. The Autavia COSC GMT pilot’s watch comes in steel with a blue sunray brushed dial and luminescent Super-Luminova hands and indexes.

Perhaps most notable within the Bremont collection of aviation models is the Bremont MB range, designed after ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker requested they create a pilot’s watch. The timepiece had to withstand rigorous testing comparable to the ejection seats. The limited-edition MBI is reserved for flyers who have successfully ejected from an aircraft using one of the company’s seats – other versions (MBII and MBIII) are available to all enthusiasts.

Depth Charge: Underwater watches that go below and beyond sports needs

Diving the depths of the oceans requires skill and daring and the ability to assess the passing of time. Submerging with the right watch is crucial and the latest watertight instruments provide timely assurance and robust good looks for adventurers.

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date epitomise the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first diver’s wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). A version with a date function, the Submariner Date, followed 16 years later. Contemporary models can plunge securely to 300 metres.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert – in black, blue or green, depending on the version – that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode.

Omega’s ocean story began with the Omega Marine in 1932, the world’s first diver’s watch available to civilians. Characterised by its double case design sealed with cork, the superb water resistance of that timepiece paved the way for the brand’s diving future.

To survive the toughest conditions, Omega created a Concept Ultra Deep watch in 2019 that included indestructible features, such as a case completely machined out of forged grade 5 titanium, robust ‘Manta lugs’ that provided an innovative way of securing the watch to its strap, and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design.

The release of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep collection last year allowed all underwater enthusiasts to feel like a professional aquanaut. Seven models, measuring 45.5mm in diameter and water-resistant to 6,000 metres (20,000 feet), are led by a bold version crafted in sand-blasted and forged grade 5 titanium.

Blancpain claims the honour of introducing the first modern dive watch 70 years ago. Revolutionising watchmaking, the Fifty Fathoms was conceived by passionate scuba diver Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then the brand’s CEO.

The 50th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms saw the arrival of a contemporary version, and 20 years later, the homage continues in a new model, the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa, with a high-tech instrument that makes it possible for the first time to measure up to three-hour immersion times. Designed to meet today’s technical diving requirements, the bezel boasts a three-hour scale that is linked to a special hand that completes one full turn in three hours.

The Panerai story is one of innovation in the service of creating tools for marine adventure. The newly released Submersible QuarantaQuattro is water resistant as far down as 300 metres, thanks to the patented crown-protecting device that is inextricably linked to the Italian watchmaker’s history. A unidirectional rotating bezel to measure submersion time and metallic appliques filled with white SuperLumiNova make the watch an indispensable diving instrument.

The first diving watch Bremont ever produced was the 43mm Supermarine 500, back in 2009. This robust timepiece met the criteria of brand co-founders Nick and Giles English – beautifully engineered, practical in design and also tied to its strong aviation heritage. A new entrant to the range is the Supermarine S501, which has drawn direct inspiration from the S301 released in 2017. The more vintage feel was a big differentiator within this series and it has proved incredibly popular. The thicker crystal case was critical to ensure the watch could still reach depths of 500 metres.

Swiss watchmaker Doxa developed the SUB 200 C-Graph II to fulfil the role of a tool watch on high-risk submersions such as cave dives. With a more contemporary diameter of 42mm and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm, it offers the same functionality and features as its larger 45mm sibling presented in 2020 and is also made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel.

Seiko has introduced a diver’s watch that commemorates five of the world’s highest peaks by Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura. On the textured dial of the Prospex 1970 Diver’s The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition is an image of the contours of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs.

Blancpain unveils dazzling Ladybird watch collection

Blancpain has released The Ladybird collection of feminine watches to add another fine range to its long history of ladies’ watches stretching back to 1930.

The Ladybird Colors – lilac, peacock green, forest green, turquoise and midnight blue – feature on Roman numerals as part of the textured mother-of-pearl dial which is set with 70 diamonds. With two new small seconds and moon phase complications, by playing with colour combinations Blancpain has added a vibrancy to its collection, and variations of these colours are picked up on the straps of red or white gold models.

The ultra-elegant and colourful nature of these timepieces comes with jewellery designed to bring out mechanical watchmaking at its finest. Their individuality is underlined by the offset Roman numerals which are underscored by an inner ring adorned with delicately tapering gemsetting that is also on the small seconds and moon-phase indicators. At a diameter of 34.9 mm, the case of the new Ladybird Colors models contains diamonds amounting to more than two carats. This is high-end gemsetting in which each parameter is hand-adjusted.

These watches tick gently to the beat of Calibre 1163 for the small seconds version and Calibre 1163L for the moon-phase iteration. Endowed with a four-day power reserve and a silicon balance spring, they are designed to keep track of daily life with a blend of accuracy, comfort and style.

Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Perfectly encapsulating its tagline, “the future of Swiss watchmaking,” the pioneering horology brand Zenith has a rich history that has shaped its success today mainly due to the futuristic mindset that prevails among its watchmakers.

In fact, the idea for Zenith’s iconic Pilot line emerged back in the late 19th century, even before the first flight, with its founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s belief that humankind would reach the sky one day. With such an outlook and dedication to aviation, the Pilot line was created as one of the first watches for pilots.

Since then Zenith has continued to hold onto this heritage while simultaneously adapting to contemporary trends to launch a series of Pilot watches through the centuries.

Newly added to this line is the Pilot Automatic with two renditions – stainless steel and ceramic – released at the Watches and Wonders 2023. This newly-designed timepiece is complete with a rounded 40mm case with a black opaline dial with luminescent numbers using the Super-LumiNova technology, a flat-top bezel and an angular large-sized crown.

While the stainless steel version is vertically satin-brushed and comes with two interchangeable straps in brown calfskin leather and black cordura-effect rubber, the ceramic ones have a matte finish and are accompanied by a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The dial also has the words pilot engraved on it, a word that was trademarked by Zenith in 1904.

The most notable aspect of the new Pilot Automatic is the 6’o clock mark which is replaced by the date and has a bold white dash on top of it to mimic the artificial horizon instrument seen on aeroplanes thus showing off the horologist’s aviation spirit.

Beyond its physical aspects, the watch has a winding mechanism that uses an open and blackened oscillating weight similar to the artificial horizon instrument and boasts an El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement which gives the instrument its 60-hour power reserve when it is wound fully.

Another equally fascinating watch in the Pilot series is the newly-released chronograph timepiece Pilot Big Date Flyback which is embedded with a newly-developed version of the El Primero 3600 calibre, the El Primero 3652 calibre which is particularly made with the pilots’ requirements in mind by including two distinctive features – the big date and the flyback function.

With a dial that is slightly bigger than the Pilot Automatic – precisely 42.5mm, the brand dropped two versions of the Pilot Big Date Flyback also in stainless steel and ceramic. Its watch dial is an ode to the brand’s iconic El Primero Rainbow from 1997 with its bright orange minute and seconds hands and an oversized date display. Similar to the Pilot Automatic, the Big Date Flyback also come with exchangeable watch straps and has a quick-release mechanism too allowing watch wearers to effortlessly change the straps.

In addition to the Pilot collection, Zenith also launched three other unisex watches – Defy Revival Shadow, Defy Skyline Ceramic and Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic – as part of its DEFY Revival line at the Watches and Wonder 2023. The new pieces are a modern revival of the original DEFY model released in 1969.

The Defy Skyline Ceramic, for instance, has a flat top bezel with an octagonal-shaped black ceramic case that gives the watch its bold appeal. The watch’s case and straps – available in rubber and ceramic – are manufactured with metals and alloys that give the watch its unhinged quality which ensures that watch wearers need not worry about scratches or the watch losing its vibrant new look.

In terms of its technical aspects, the gadget is inbuilt with an automatic high-frequency El Primero 3620 manufacture movement and the first-ever 1/10th of a second indicator.

Click here to explore Zenith’s newest watches, launched at the Watches and Wonders 2023.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

World-time Watches cleared for take-off

As long-frustrated would-be travelers finally get the green light to globetrot once again, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment to reassess that most trusty of travel companions – the world time watch. Doing pretty much exactly what it says on the tin, these precision-engineered wonders tell you the time anywhere in the world just by glancing at the appropriate time zone indicator.

Typically, this involves viewing the outer chapter ring, located just within the bezel displaying the names of one (or more) cities for each of the 24 reference time zones. There are seven current models that we commend as worthy of your particular attention…

First up is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 (appropriately Hora Mundi is Latin for ‘World Time’). To be fair, this may be something of a controversial nomination, given that the watch is more truthfully a GMT model – one designed to display both local time and Greenwich Mean Time – rather than a true world timer. This quibble aside, the Ref. 5557 is a truly impressive wrist adornment.

Undoubtedly more of a true world time timepiece, however, is Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. The very first Patek to feature a finely integrated calibre CH 28-520 HU movement, its fetchingly designed salmon dial comes ringed with the requisite 24 cities’ names, while the time zone chapter ring is usefully burnished in black and white, making distinguishing night and daytime refreshingly straightforward.

Putting a playful spin on traditional aesthetics, meanwhile, is Bovet’s Orbis Mundi, which was launched to celebrate the maison’s recent bicentennial. Boldly incorporating a new manually wound in-house calibre 15BM01HU movement, the world time mechanism resides on the 12 o’clock subdial, while a window on the lower half of the aventurine dial allows for a fascinating view of the inner workings of the escapement below.

Marking a similar milestone for a rival marque is the blue-on-white Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer GMT Steel from OMEGA. This 15th anniversary edition features a luminous blue dial with all the requisite 24-city and 24-hour discs boldly depicted. Featuring a date aperture at 6 o’clock, the main attraction here is the gorgeously hand-enameled sapphire crystal world map at its heart.

Another artwork-themed creation comes courtesy of a canny collaboration between independent watchmaker Svend Andersen and famed Singaporean vintage watch collector Benjamin Chee: the Celestial Voyager Sunset over Cappadocia. Burnished in a similar white-and-blue motif, the timepiece’s dial is dominated by the iconic hot air balloons and picturesque vistas synonymous with its eponymous Turkish locale, all brought to life through painstaking cloisonné enameling work.

Standing in stark visual contrast is the black-dominant Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. In something of an ambitious move, this particular watch not only shows world time, but it can also indicate dual time, while also delivering a highly accurate recreation of the moon’s real-time waxing and waning, as well as its effect on the global tidescape.

All of these displays extend in continuous circles outward from the central, geocentric image of Earth as viewed from the North Pole. This complexity is elegantly packaged in a sleek combination of ceramic and blackened titanium.

Finally, we turn to the truly avant-garde in the notable form of the GMT Balancier Convexe, a recent release from the house of Gruebel Forsey. In an interesting counterpoint to our first candidate chronometer, this watch, too, is somewhat misnomered.

Rather than being a conventional GMT model, instead, it ambitiously incorporates a multitude of travel-related features, all separately arrayed across its distinctive dished fascia. Local time is indicated by two red arrow hands, while a second time zone sundial is propped on the left and a dominant 3D rotating globe ringed with the 24 time zones and cities is on the right, all of which are underscored by an inclined balance wheel at 6 o’clock.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Old Time Magic- Secondhand second-hands win out as the watch world rewinds

The haute horology industry is famously adept when it comes to innovation in both the materials and movements. Indeed, it is this very aptitude that sees it continually able to astound, astonish and engage discerning enthusiasts and collectors alike. Of late, seven such old time, timepieces have particularly distinguished themselves in one of the world’s many specialist sales rooms.

Leading the list is a 1967 Cartier Crash, which went for a highly-respectable US$1.5 million (roughly US$1.65 million when the buyer’s premium is factored in) when it went under the digital gavel at a recent online auction hosted by Loupe This, the California-based virtual watch vendor. To put this a little into perspective, when the watch actually debuted some 55 years back, it could have been yours for an eminently reasonable US$50. Perhaps its latter-day valuation owes much to its clear homage to Salvador Dali’s iconic The Persistence of Memory.

Only last year, another fine example of heritage horology made notable waves when it came up for auction – a 1957 OMEGA Speedmaster “Broad Arrow” Ref. 2915-1. The Speedmaster is rightly famed as the only model of watch ever to be worn on the moon, a distinction owed to the marque’s exclusive partnership with NASA. Its value, has also been heightened by the fact that it’s one of relatively few Omegas to not feature the brand’s seahorse emblem on its case back. All told, this was just one of the many factors (including its near pristine condition) that saw it fetch a staggering US$3.12 million.

Another piece worthy of due acknowledgment is the 1952 Rolex Bao Dai Ref. 6062, a classic timepiece historically commissioned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. It remained in the possession of the royal family until it was sold in 2002. Some 15 years later, it cropped up again and an anonymous buyer snapped it up for US$5.06 million, in the process setting a new record for the most expensive Rolex ever to be auctioned.

That record, however, only endured for some five months, before another Rolex – the 1968 ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona – soared past it in the record-breaking stakes. This latter watch, gifted to the eponymous actor by his wife within a year of its release, was the first Daytona to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel, while its dial came strikingly burnished in three different colours – black, white and red. Much beloved by the star, he eventually gifted it to his daughter’s then-boyfriend in 1984, who, in turn, sold it five years ago via Phillips New York for the princely sum of US$17.75 million. To date, it remains the most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold at auction.

Turning to pocket watches, the star performer here is the 200-year-old Breguet & Fils, Paris, No. 2667. A truly elegant 18K gold creation said to be the first-ever resonance watch fashioned by brand founder Abraham- Louis Breguet, it was sold in 1814 for roughly 5,000 French Francs (about US$750 in today’s money). By contrast, when it headlined a Christie’s auction a decade ago, it commanded a hefty US$4.69 million price tag.

The currently priciest vintage pocket watch, however, came courtesy of Patek Philippe in the form of its 1943 Henry Graves Supercomplication. Deemed one of the most intricate creations ever to exit a Swiss workshop, this 18K gold timepiece contains a truly impressive 24 complications. Commissioned by the eponymous Henry Graves Jr, the price he paid some 79 years back was the equivalent of US$15,000 today in value terms. Some eight years ago, though, when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva branch, it went up for nearly 1,600 times that figure – US$23.98 million.

Another vintage Patek worth a mention is the 1943-made Stainless Steel Ref. 1518, which, five years back, sold for some US$11.134 million. Sleekly-designed and with a diameter of just 35mm, it was the first timepiece to ever integrate both a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. Furthermore, only 281 Ref.1518s were ever made, with just four of these are burnished in stainless steel.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Roar into the Year of the Tiger with these luxury timepieces

As the Ox gives way to the Tiger, the world’s leading haute-horology houses are celebrating with an array of timepieces that pay tribute to the striped feline in question. Scroll below for seven stunning examples that merit particular mention.

Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm

First up is the whimsical, gem-studded Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm from renowned American jeweller Harry Winston. Featuring 57 twinkling diamonds on its bezel, lug tips and crown, its appropriately red-hued dial is fronted by two adorable tiger cubs with bejewelled eyes, red beaded mother-of-pearl stripes and peony ‘tattoos’. Visible through the rose-gold caseback is the automatic movement that develops a robust 68-hour power reserve, while a chic red leather strap completes its festive appeal.

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”

Another timepiece utilising the Chinese colour of good luck, happiness and success is IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”. Here, the striking burgundy dial – replete with hours, minutes and seconds displays and day and date apertures – is lovingly enveloped in a 41mm stainless-steel case. Underneath the hood is the in-house 69385 calibre movement and a specially-designed tiger-shaped rotor, all viewable through the transparent sapphire-crystal caseback.

Breguet’s 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger

For its part, Breguet unveils the 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger, whose fascia is adorned with a majestic tiger vividly brought to life through an intricate combination of bas-relief engraving and the brand’s iconic guilloché work. Adding to its super-slim sophistication, the 40mm rose-gold case boasts a depth of less than 5.5mm – a feat made possible by the ultra-thin, self-winding calibre 502.3 movement within. Just eight creations of this homage to fine artisanal watchmaking will be released.

Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Tiger

A similarly slim CNY-inspired design comes courtesy of Piaget, with the dial of its 38-piece limited-edition Altiplano Year of the Tiger also dominated by the fearless feline. In this instance, however, it is the arts of cloisonné and grand feu enamel that enable the creature to pop out from the shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial. Ribbons of gold are painstakingly used to create each miniature portion of the tiger’s body before enamel pigment is added in an effect that heightens its lifelike vivacity. In a further statement of elegant embellishment, brilliant-cut diamonds ring the white-gold case.

Also Read: Time to Go Green – Luxury Timepieces With Colour

Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger

Not to be outdone, Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger relies on not one but two separate enamelling techniques to capture the essence of the eponymous giant cat, which is envisaged ready to pounce under a dramatic midnight-blue sky. The first – champlevé – involves creating recesses that are then filled with enamel, while the second, termed paillonné, utilises tiny slivers of gold or silver leaf coated with translucent enamel to create a shimmering metallic effect. After hours upon hours of labour-intensive craftsmanship, each of the 88 pieces of this model is unique.

Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger

Turning to the ancient Japanese art of urushi lacquering, meanwhile, is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger. Powered by the L.U.C 96.17-L movement and crafted from 18K ethical rose gold, this 88-piece limited release depicts a tiger looking back towards a mountainous landscape. It’s an artistic image that is created through a months-long process of applying the sap of urushi trees (also known as lacquer trees) and tempering them into a hard consistency.

Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger

The final stop on our journey through the year’s outstanding Chinese Zodiac-inspired timepieces is Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger. Available in platinum with a blue dial or in rose gold with a brown dial (with 12 of each set to be released), just four apertures are visible on its 40mm fascia, displaying the hours, minutes, day and date. The rest of its expansive dial, meanwhile, is aptly dedicated to the Zodiac emblem of the year – a meticulously engraved prowling tiger whose eyes are firmly on its wearer.

Also read: Engagement Watches As New Engagement Rings! Read about the trend

Timepiece collection: Luxury skeleton watches to make a powerful statement!

As horological statement pieces, skeleton watches afford aficionados the opportunity to glimpse the precision-engineered movements beneath their transparent dials. Their origins can be traced back to mid-18th century France, and more specifically, to watchmaker André-Charles Caron who created a timepiece that eschewed all the usual window dressing on the dial, leaving a clear view of the mechanism underneath.

Since that moment of clarity, the popularity of skeleton-dial watches has only grown, with haute-horology houses now clamouring to create ever more intricate designs with an open-worked fascia. Here, we highlight seven of the latest crop that merit particular mention.

Rotonde de Cartier by Cartier

First in our list of stunning skeletonised creations is Cartier’s Rotonde de Cartier Astronomystérieux, one of a trio of limited editions that comprise the Rotonde de Cartier Precious Icon Set. Taking place of pride on its transparent dial is the floating Calibre 9462 MC movement suspended inside a tourbillon carriage. This enticing display is housed in a 43.5mm palladium case, encircled by an outer ring featuring Roman-numeral hour markers. Fitted with teal alligator leather straps, only five pieces of this guaranteed collector’s item will ever be made.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-one

Another limited release comes in the form of the newest avatars of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-one. The Swiss-headquartered watch manufacturer has, in fact, simultaneously released not one, not two, but three different versions – Black Ceramic Green, Black Ceramic Sky Blue, and Plasma Ceramic Yellow. All boast see-through dials that showcase the brand’s iconic ‘figure 8’ motif, with the hour-and-minute dial gracing its top half and a large seconds display located at the 6 o’clock position.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Saphire

Then, taking proceedings to dazzlingly transparent heights is Hublot’s Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire. Housed in a virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal case, its open-worked fascia is dominated by the HUB6035 automatic movement, which is suspended on three transparent sapphire bridges to give the appearance that it is floating in mid-air. If that weren’t enough, even its strap received the see-through treatment – a feat that required 165 separate components – providing this 30-piece limited release with a truly airy appeal.

Piaget Polo Skeleton by Piaget

To capture a sportier look, luxury maison Piaget has unveiled the Piaget Polo Skeleton, a 42mm creation available in either Piaget blue PVD or slate grey. It’s the first time the Polo has gone skeletal, and the brand, which is already renowned for crafting super-slim timepieces, has truly outdone itself. Indeed, the watch’s overall case depth measures just 6.5mm – a remarkable 30 percent thinner than earlier editions.

Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

A similarly lightweight feel comes courtesy of Hermès’ Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, a beautiful design crafted from ultra-light titanium. Not only does its skeletonised dial show off the super-slim Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, it’s also the perfect frame to view the double moonphase display at 6 o’clock.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton

Eschewing minimalism for a more outré effect is the 88-piece Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton from noted avant-garde manufacturer Roger Dubuis. Spawned from its ongoing partnership with tyre brand Pirelli, this 45mm black titanium model features an undeniable racing DNA, as evidenced in the tyre-shaped case that houses the RD820SQ automatic skeleton movement.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton

For the ultimate in statement timepieces, though, feast your eyes on Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. A master class in horological engineering, this 41.5mm white-gold creation houses one of the most intricate complications in the world of fine watchmaking – the perpetual calendar. The feat is all the more impressive given the open-worked design, which by its very nature requires the paring back of all but essential elements on the dial. Boasting supreme technical performance and stunning aesthetics, it truly sets a new bar for skeletonised watches.