Heart & Sole: The shoe fits KIBO’s Natalie Chow very well as she kick-starts zero-waste Hong Kong retailing

In the vibrant city of Hong Kong, where consumerism has long been synonymous with high-rises and luxury malls, one woman is revolutionising the shopping landscape by infusing sustainability into the heart of retail. Natalie Chow, the visionary co- founder of sustainable sneaker-maker KIBO (K!BO in branding parlance), is leading the charge to redefine the shopping experience, placing environmental consciousness at the forefront.

From the get-go, it was important to Chow that her marketing and message did not make consumers feel bad about their shopping and lifestyle choices while offering them a guilt-free planet-friendly alternative. The savvy businesswoman is aware that there are a lot of unexpected implications associated with the food, clothing and accessories we use and own – consequences that affect not just animals but also society and the environment. She is keen to stress that the objective isn’t guilt, even when discussing the appalling circumstances people endure in fast-fashion factories or the catastrophic effects of animal husbandry on the planet.

“I was always drawn to beautiful things and advertising was actually what I really wanted to get into; hence, I started studying marketing,” says the University of Melbourne alumnus. “I did both marketing and psychology, which are extremely correlated. I think the human brain is fascinating, and quite often we make irrational choices, and I wanted to understand how people make choices every day, and what influences them to do so.”

Equal footing

Chow chooses to wear independent brands for our shoot, as a way to support the local creative scene. Arriving back from a 4-hour Singapore-to-Hong Kong flight, she looks fresh and ready to pose in the hallways of PMQ, where fellow start-up projects and businesses reside.

“Was I there for Taylor Swift? I wish!” she exclaims, breaking into laughter. “But no, I was in Singapore for a sneaker convention. The sneaker world is still a man- dominated industry – surprise, surprise! When I started my own business, I realised how big of a gender gap there is out there in other industries, especially in the start-up space.”

Denim top and skirt by Vincent Li Studio & sneakers by KIBO

While the majority of sneaker firms were started by men, KIBO was conceived, is run, and the products are designed, by women. Men have long controlled the shoe industry, which is reflected in the preponderance of masculine designs and styles. Conversely, KIBO was created with a heavy emphasis on equality, which is understandable given that it is backed by a sizable female community.

Green path

Chow’s journey towards becoming a trailblazer in sustainable fashion is rooted in her early life and background. Born in Hong Kong, she and her two sisters were raised in Australia by their mother, and she developed a deep appreciation for the unique blend of culture, energy and commerce in the city they lived in. She traces her connection with nature back to her childhood, recalling that she separated the household recyclables from the age of seven.

“I believe this is a journey for myself, and for everyone out there too,” she says. “When I started there was no such thing as ESG (environmental, social and governance) and now it’s mandatory for many companies. The framework and the bar have become clearer over the years, so in both the corporate world and schools, there are standards to comply with and a goal to achieve. As for myself, I have learnt the different credentials in material sourcing, GRS (Global Recycled Standard), BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative), FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and so on, and how to make decisions in production.”

Driven by a desire to effect change, Chow dedicated herself to understanding the complexities of sustainability in fashion. She immersed herself in extensive research, exploring alternative materials, ethical production methods and the concept of circular fashion. Through her studies and personal experiences, she realised she had a unique opportunity to create a brand that could challenge the status quo and inspire others to embrace sustainable fashion.


One step at a time

KIBO, meaning hope in Japanese, was founded in 2019 and was officially launched in 2020, with the goal of giving life and waste new hope. ‘Kind to the planet and kind to your feet’ is their promise, as Chow and her team employ materials that would otherwise end up in landfills, such as leather scraps from manufacturers, recovered post-consumer plastic waste, and most recently, imitation leather made from apple waste.

“I was on maternity leave when my husband [KIBO co-founder Simon Chow] and I started to brainstorm. At that time, we noticed there really was a gap as well as an opportunity in the sneakers space and I guess that’s how the seed was planted,” she recalls. Her husband’s family runs a shoe- manufacturing company.

“Moreover, as a mother of two, I wanted to pursue something meaningful and purposeful that my kids would grow up and be proud of. Sustainability has to encompass ethics and transparency, otherwise, it’s quite meaningless. Since we have an edge of having relevant backgrounds in this industry, we decided to take this leap of faith.”

As the introductory lines on the KIBO website spell out, ‘the ! is a reminder to do things differently. The fashion industry needs to change and tackle big issues such as climate change and modern slavery.

And that’s only possible if we adapt ourselves and unite as a community. Because we know that every small step goes a long way.’

Walk the walk

Through her brand’s ethical practices and commitment to transparency, she has successfully challenged the conventional notion that fashion and sustainability are incompatible. But she is far from settling, and will continue to improve.

“Problem-solving has been a skill that I was fortunate to have adopted with my previous work experiences, but being a brand founder has taken it to the next level just because we have problems to solve every single day. From production hiccups to liaising with partners, both soft skills and hard skills are required such as managing my own time and analytical skills,” she says.

T shirt by KIBO, skirt by Vincent Li Studio & sneakers by KIBO

By making conscious consumerism accessible and stylish, KIBO has inspired a broader movement towards a more sustainable future for Hong Kong’s retail industry. Its success serves as a testament to the power of idealists to effect meaningful change, reminding us that a person can go into an industry they are passionate about without compromising their beliefs.

As Chow emphasises throughout our conversation, sustainability and style can indeed go hand in hand. But behind it all is a drive to connect with consumers through her shoes. She considers fashion a service industry. When she’s working on a collection, she is thinking about how a KIBO piece should make you feel: confident, comfortable, alive and effortless.

“It’s timely that this is for the April issue,” she says, her eyes lighting up. “Earth Month; let’s do it right!”

Interview, Text and Art Direction by: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Brands: KiBO and Vincent Li Studio

Sneaker Revolution: Spotlighting Hong Kong’s custom sneaker artists

These days, it seems that sneakers carry more cultural weight than even the once most desirable and feted brand names. With luxury brands such as Loewe, Versace and Alexander McQueen now joining the line up of high-end sneakers and collaborations between the luxury world and the biggest name in sports footwear creating a cult following. Yes, we too are coveting the recent Gucci-Adidas and -Balenciaga tie-in.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

This generation of footwear aficionados might not be able to name a single Basquiat or Warhol masterpiece but they will tell you in a heartbeat how much a pair of Yeezy sneakers will resell for. The sub-culture of sneaker collection has risen to such heights that its fandom could possibly rival even Carrie Bradshaw’s undying love of collecting designer heels.

But as the hype of sneaker collection continue to rise, it’s no longer enough to get the rarest or most trend-setting pair of kicks. These days, customised sneakers are all the rage. Creatively conceptualised to reflect the wearer’s taste and style, custom-designed sneakers go above and beyond the range of what retail stores can offer. These unique creations give its wearers a personalised pair of sneakers that they can proudly walk in and call their own.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Bridging the gap between designer shoes and bespoke footwear are custom sneaker designers. These artists turns run-of-the-mill canvas footwear into one-of-a-kind custom sneakers. Coming from a background in fine arts, graphic design and fashion design, the diversity of sneaker customisers add a youthful and modern style that many younger generations seek. Out of the box and statement-bearing, these custom sneaker designers are hand-drawn and -painted, each pair is matched to the style and personality of the customer, making no two designs ever alike – an appealing factor that many fashion enthusiasts and shoe collectors love.
Read on as Gafencu spotlights the sneaker revolutionaries in Hong Kong to turn to for your bespoke sneaker fix.

Creative Kicks

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Tapping into the niche market is Hong Kong sneaker illustrator 199xCustom, who specialises in animation characters and cartoons – particularly Japanese anime. She first tried her hand at sneaker customisation after a disappointing search for a design that was not available in the market. She subsequently turned to her passion for drawing to create her own, eventually turning fan art creations into an artistic interpretation of sneaker customisation.

“There are actually several different categories of customisation. I specialise in painting and using an airbrush, which generally requires a wide range of brushes, airbrushes, and pigments”, explains the artist.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Anime characters and cartoons account for a large part of her work because it is a unique market not available at a retail level. However, her artistic flare and edgy style stretches beyond animation. Her original designs also range from incorporating elements of Japanese fine art, like ukiyo-e, to create an embroidered dragon and tiger pattern on the mesh body of a Yeezy 350 sneaker.

A pair of customised sneakers could cost anywhere from hundreds to thousands of Hong Kong dollars. Depending on the complexity of each design, the tools and materials required – which often cost a few hundred Hong Kong dollars to purchase as well, (and ultimately) the time it takes to complete each project, prices can vary but the result will, more often than not, reflect in quality and creativity.

Back in Time

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Photo courtesy of Simple Union

However, the service of sneaker customising isn’t simply picking up a paintbrush and stenciling a printout. It takes, creativity, skill and passion for art and the process it takes to create a unique concept that will set it apart from everything else already on the market. Other sneaker customisers such as Simple Union, a handcraft brand that customises shoes and other accessories, go beyond just painting and airbrushing. “‘Enjoy Simplicity, Enjoy Life’ is the motto the brand follows’’, says artist and founder FK.

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Photo courtesy of 199xCustom

Putting a close focus on the materials is key to Simple Union’s unique designs, they combine traditional culture and craftsmanship with quality materials. The brand is also known for using Italian leather and rare fabrics from Japan, such as old Japanese Katazome, an ancient method of fabric dying, weaving and stenciling – often flowers and bird motifs – that dates back to the Meiji era of the late 1800s.

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Photo courtesy of Simple Union

Each design is an original concept that adds a bespoke touch that off-the-rack shoes can’t offer. But Simple Union also accepts commissions by customers, if both the artist’s style and customer’s taste are a good match. On some occasions, the brand would be approached to customise products for other brands and stores as part of a workshop experience or event.

Sustainable Spirit

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Photo courtesy of K!bo

Another brand that puts materials on the forefront of their products is pioneering sustainable sneaker brand K!BO. “The name K!BO means hope in Japanese”, says Natalie Chow, co-founder of the Hong Kong sustainable sneaker brand.

Adding a new line of products to their range, the footwear brand will be offering exciting new selections of customised sneakers to thrill fashionistas throughout summer. They will provide a range of limited-edition designs, as well as exciting customisation options that will allow customers the liberty to add their own touch of style to their bespoke footwear.

Photo courtesy of K!bo
Photo courtesy of K!bo

Expected to start with a HK$1280 price tag, the initial stages of the new line of products will offer customised pre-order options that will allow customers to get closely involved in the design process, such as including unique and fun patterns and selecting recycled leather with graphic prints, as a way to personalise their #GuiltFreeKicks to show off this summer.

 

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio, Photos courtesy of 199xCustom, Simple Union and K!bo)