The Roe Down: Handcrafted with feeling, Artifact presents artistic yet approachable caviar-infused Japanese cuisine

Tucked away below Central’s traffic horns and meandering pedestrians – along what has become the go-to canteen of people in stilettos and navy suits – is Artifact, a newly opened upscale chef’s table Japanese restaurant uniting the different variations of caviar with fine dishes. Paired harmoniously with jet-fresh ingredients flown directly from Japan, this whole caviar experience is savoured at a deep-blue upholstered 14-seat dining counter and ultra-sleek contemporary speakeasy bar set within a casual basement food hall. These diverse concepts converge in the creative mind of Chef Sato Kiyoshi, whose vision has brought eccentric Japanese cuisine to the energetic epicentre of Hong Kong – in the depths of BaseHall 02 in Jardine House.

It is the quality of food and ingredients presented in a delectable style that sets Artifact apart from the hundreds of other Japanese restaurants scattered around the city. In true Japanese fashion, calling in an artisanal expert like Chef Kiyoshi was an important puzzle piece in its realisation. Scrimping on quality is never an option for the head chef, who says of his edible masterpieces: “It’s a combination of texture, foundation, ingredients and balance. For me, a perfect dish is always driven by a feeling or an inspiration.”

artifact

The speakeasy bar offers separate and interchangeable menus; it is only at the chef’s table that a single menu is strictly adhered to, omakase-style. However, with an intricacy based upon ‘shun’ – the Japanese philosophy of seasonality – the menu adapts constantly to fold in the finest produce on the market. “We are an ingredients-focussed restaurant, so the menu changes according to what is the best for the season,” says Kiyoshi. “From the first menu to the next one, for instance, we changed chocolate and coffee dessert to milk and ginger, and wagyu to tenderloin.” It is often said that we eat with our eyes first. At Artifact, the food looks just as good as it tastes and all the dishes are pretty spectacular. And so, the caviar chronicle begins. With a name defined as a handmade object or the remains of one, Artifact takes pride in the craftwork that goes into the construction of each tasting menu – both for its four-course lunch and eight-course dinner.

Also Read: Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

 

 

The four-course set embraces appetisers of Miso Cheese with Baerii Caviar, and Namerou, Goma and Kaluga Caviar, followed by a choice of entrée between Polmard Beef with Kaki Potato and Obsiblue Prawn with Ginger Orange Ponzu and Oyster. For the main course, there are options of Hokkaido Pork, Carrot and Wakami; Toothfish, Kabocha and Razor Clams; or Wagyu with Maitake and Soy, along with a traditional Tamago Kake Gohan (Japanese egg and rice) to accompany the meal and a seasonal dessert to wrap it up.

Caviar is central to the dinner journey, where the dégustation menu includes highlights such as Namerou and Goma with Kaluga; Takoyaki and Rakkyo with Ossetra; and Carabineros with Smoked Miso Cream and Baerii. Kinmedai, Kabu and Yuzu is another wonderful course. If the caviar rush becomes too much, a carefully curated wine list spans an international selection of Champagnes, rosés, whites and reds to cool racing minds and calm overworked taste buds.

The ambience is chic and bustling, catering to smart mid-towners in need of a Japanese fix. The act of sitting around a counter enhances the Artifact experience, as Kiyoshi elaborates: “We aim to offer the best dining experience as we can with the counter dining setting. It gives me and my team more opportunities to interact with customers. Diners can also see what’s brewing behind the kitchen and the preparation that goes into each dish.”

The truth of these words is evident as human connections extend from those relaxed at the counter enjoying their food to everyone labouring diligently within to create it. In a city like Hong Kong, where life whizzes by at almost twice the speed of a watch’s tick, Artifact stands apart because warmth, style and artfulness abound throughout the entire place. It lives in the buzzy dining room, the service, the interiors and, above all, in the sumptuous, well-considered meals. It is a scene and a dining room you want to lean into, linger over and – without question – indulge in.

artifact

Artifact, Shop 5 and 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong. +852 6468 8762. artifactbar.com

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Artifact)

Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Fusion is a term that has been bandied about in culinary circles for a long time and remains as divisive as its definition is broad. Some deem the entire category as gimmicky and unimaginative, focusing more on style than substance. For its proponents, however, it is a creative reimagining of beloved cuisines that blend two disparate traditions into a synergistic whole.

It is exactly with this spirit in mind that Pazzi Isshokenmei opened its doors in Central’s new lifestyle hub H Queen’s. In particular, the expansive 6,000-square-foot eatery deftly blends Italian ingredients and techniques with the flavours of traditional Japanese izakaya. Even the name reflects its dual roots, with ‘pazzi’ meaning ‘crazy’ in Italian, and ‘Isshokenmei’ being the culturally significant Japanese term for ‘doing something difficult with all one’s might’.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_

The brainchild of Philip Chow – a 20-year veteran of Hong Kong’s bustling F&B scene – this bold new restaurant is, as its promotional materials aptly claim, “a marriage between boundary-pushing creativity and laser-like precision that manifests in exquisite flavour pairings and fastidious plating”.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu

Our lunchtime tasting began with a visually stunning plate of Pink Prawn Tartare. Laced with edible flowers and healthy dollops of caviar, the tartare proper features fresh pink prawns tossed in yoghurt to enhance its inherent creaminess. Imparting elements of tartness are slivers of green apple and refreshing Japanese cucumber, with the base sauce of ponzu and shiso leaf oil adding a welcome tanginess to the proceedings.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_pink_prawn_tartare

Though small in size, the second appetiser – Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian starter of veal and sardines – was equally pleasing to the eye. Here, super slim medallions of veal are topped with chunks of tuna and a light mayonnaise, with the accompanying crouton cubes and cucumber slices bequeathing each mouthful with a delightful crunch.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_vitello_tonnato

Then the first main of Lobster Spaghetti hoves into view. The freshly made pasta is tossed in a delicious lobster sauce – made all the richer by a long, slow-cooking process – though the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the succulent cooked lobster that tops the dish. Packed with oceanic accents, this is a surefire hit for any fan of this beloved shellfish.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_lobster_spaghetti

Next to arrive was another seafood pasta course – Crab Tagliolini. In a nod to the restaurant’s East-meets-West inspiration, the prime Japanese pairing of crab and miso is given an Italian spin here. Thin strands of tagliolini – made fresh daily – are laden with generous helpings of shredded crab meat, while caramelised onions and miso-rich gravy elevate the dish further by adding an umami-packed punch to each mouthful.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_Miso Crab Tagliolini

Our final course looked beyond the bounds of Italian and Japanese culinary traditions to that of France. Duck Confit is fronted by two perfectly-cooked ‘steaks’ of duck; the meaty morsels are melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the crispy skin bestows a delectable edgy bite. Accompaniments of potato stacks and beetroot salad further enhance this truly soul-satisfying dish.

From start to finish, every plate in our tasting menu was a symphony of stunning flavours and arresting visual appeal. By taking the best of Japanese and Italian culinary traditions, Pazzi creates something far greater than the sum of its parts, tantalising taste buds and eyes in equal measure. In the end, this is truly fusion cuisine at its finest.

 

Pazzi Isshokenmei. (852) 2555 0666. 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central. 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Father’s Day Weekend: A gastronomical treat for the leading man in your life

Treat the leading man in your life to Lan Kwai Fong’s top Italian and Japanese restaurants this Father’s Day weekend.

What better way to celebrating the leading man in your life than to spoil him with a sumptuous gourmet meal to mark the upcoming Father’s Day. Set right in the heart of the city’s wine and dine hotspot, Lan Kwai Fong offers a diversified selection of Father’s Day Menus courtesy of LKF’s most notable and talented culinary teams. From contemporary Italian delights at Aria and Ciao Chow to mouth-watering steak dinners at Kyoto Joe to a special dad-cantered Omakase menu at Tokio Joe, make this Father’s Day an occasion to remember for dear Father on the coming June 20.

gafencu magazine luxury lifestyle dining taste aria Lan Kwai Fong Italian and Japanese Father's Day weekend

A contemporary Italian fare at Aria
Getting Father’s Day afternoon started with a sophisticated contemporary Italian fare at Aria will surely be a treat for dads come June 20, especially with Chef Andrea Zamboni’s revamped menu featuring a slew of creative iterations of modern Italian cuisine, such as the Poached Boston Lobster in Sardinian Style with Tomatoes, Onion and Lemon; Japanese Wagyu A4-8 Rib Eye and Milk-fed Lamb with Friar beard and Liquorice; as well as a range of house-made pasta with Beef Bolognese and Chitarra with Braised Oxtail Ragout; All with a panoramic view of LKF skyline in the backdrop.

In addition, each dad dining on Father’s Day will receive a complimentary glass of special cocktail ‘Per te Papà’ (Gin, Coffee and Cocoa infused Campari, Vermouth and Dark chocolate).

Price: From HK$990 /person + 10% service charge
Location: 24/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2804 1116 / ariaitalian.com

 gafencu magazine luxury lifestyle dining taste Chia Chow Lan Kwai Fong Italian and Japanese Father's Day weekend

A scrumptious Italian brunch at Ciao Chow
What better time to get the family together to celebrate the man of the house than over brunch, especially if the offerings are as irresistible and scrumptious as Ciao Chow’s delightful brunch buffet. Presenting a long list of over 25 types of Italian delicacies from salad bar, carving station and dessert corner, and the house’s not-to-be-missed signature Neapolitan Pizza with VPN certification cooked-to-order courtesy of Executive Chef John Leung and his special Father’s Day touch.

Price: HK$488 /person + 10% service charge
Location: G/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2344 0005 / ciaochowlkf.com

gafencu magazine luxury lifestyle dining taste kyoto joe Lan Kwai Fong Italian and Japanese Father's Day weekend

Mouth-watering wagyu beef at Kyoto Joe
Treat your sushi-loving father to an ultra chic sushi fare at the Izakaya-themed Japanese restaurant Kyoto Joe. Offering an all-new all-you-can-eat dinner offering prepared by Chef Dow and his talented kitchen team. Presenting new and irresistible wagyu items specially for the carnivorous dads such as the Kobe Beef Roll, Saga Wagyu Tataki and Saga Wagyu Hot Pot.

The menu includes unlimited Hero Sushi Rolls, Salads/Appetizers, Sashimi and Robatayaki Grill (available for both brunch and dinner buffets) along side an optional free flow alcohol packages (HK$298) and a complimentary set of Tanai Kogen Ginrou IPA and Ginrou White Beer for a memorable Father’s Day gift.

Price: From HK$528 /adult, HK$280 /child + 10% service charge
Location: 23/F California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2804 6800 / kyotojoe.com

gafencu magazine luxury lifestyle dining taste tokio joe Lan Kwai Fong Italian and Japanese Father's Day weekend

A modern Omakase journey at Tokio Joe
New school dads who are too cool for the norm will surely be impressed with the curb-side Omakase-style Tokio Joe and their newly launched Father’s Day lunch and dinner  menus for that special man in your life. Executive Chef Wah highlights the natural flavours of the premium ingredients he sources with a touch of modern flare.

Featuring the Tuna Salad, Wagyu Tataki, Joe’s Appetizer Trio and A5 Saga Beef Inaniwa Udon, alongside a complimentary glass of Hakurakusei Junmai Ginjo, as the latest of their offerings. Not to mention, dads dining on the Father’s Day will receive a complimentary set of AJB Co. Nozawa Black Stout and White Wheat Beer.

Price: From HK$529 /per person (lunch); From HK$1,100 /person (dinner) + 10% service charge
Location: 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2525 1889 / tokiojoe.com

 

For more information visit www.lankwaifong.com. 

Enso Good: Delicious Japanese yakitori and stunning ocean views…

Just 30 years ago, the now decidedly-vibrant Kennedy Town district was anything but a happening locale. In fact, it was a rather unattractive, largely residential area and home to way more than its fair share of factories and wholesale markets, as well as a less than convivial abattoir. Since then, however, this once undesirable locale has undergone a complete transformation, making it now – arguably – one of the city’s premium F&B destinations in town. Indeed, even the most cursory of visits here will highlight the wide-range of cuisines available within its precincts – including French, Mexican, Lebanese, Japanese and far more besides.

It’s small wonder, then, that it was the location of choice for the proprietors of Ensō, a brand-new yakitori – a uniquely Japanese take on skewered dishes – eatery, which has only recently welcome its first paying patron. Although officially still in its soft opening phase, the word-of-mouth with regard to the compact and bijou 28-seat restaurant is already very positive, a consequence of both its menu choices and its stunning views out across Victoria Harbour.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views…

When it comes to making a first impression, its interior is reassuringly sleek and clean. Venturing a little further in, would-be diners are treated to the enticing sight of the restaurant’s signature skewers being openly prepared. Although comparatively uncapacious, larger groups can be accommodated among its booths, that is if they manage to navigate their way past its alluring display of wall-to-wall alcohol (although still awaiting its drink license, this remains an impressive statement of intent).

Such diversion aside, though, the true star here – and rightly so – is the food. Keen to acknowledging this, owner Renee says: “I wanted to create a neighbourhood restaurant that focuses on serving good food, with an emphasis on choosing great ingredients and delivering top-notch customer service. Above all, I want to ensure our diners will always want to come back for more.”

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views…wagyu
Eager to see if her words were borne out by the fare on offer, our first dish – a sumptuous serving of Wagyu Beef (A5) – couldn’t arrive too soon. Regarded by true gourmands as the undisputed epitome of all things bovine, this particular platterful saw the beautifully-marbled slices of beef cooked to a perfect medium-rare. Ably enhancing its inherent flavours yet further, meanwhile, were an array of condiments – pink salt, garlic chips, whole grain mustard and a soy sauce foam – that defiantly added an extra delightful dimension to every forkful.

Next to arrive tableside was the Mixed Chicken Platter. Rather than opting simply for the standard chicken cuts – legs, thighs, breasts – this decidedly bold dish actually treats the more daring diner to an epicurean exploration of the less-feted parts of the bird – to wit, the liver, gizzard, heart, skin, soft bone, neck, wing and tail. Thankfully, despite this unorthodoxy, there’s something on the platter to suit every taste. Fans of foie gras, for example, will enjoy the rich decadence of the liver, while the soft bone boasts an interestingly crunchy texture. The most unusual though, is undoubtedly the chicken tail skewer with its striking gelatinous and fatty texture.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… wagyu and chicken skewers
In the case of the next course – the Minced Chicken Stick – its rather innocuous appearance definitely belied the flavourful punch packed into every bite. The meat proper is, apparently, hand-ground to a secret recipe, with the grill then imparting its own deliciously smoky legacy. The highlight, though, is the accompanying dipping Japanese egg yolk and soy sauce, which adds a luxuriant layer of creaminess.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… lamb rack
For its part, the penultimate platter, Lamb Rack, comprised two Australian lamb chops accompanied by whole-grain mustard and a verdant mint sauce. Once again showcasing the chef’s skills, the meat came wholly unadorned save for a sprinkle of salt and pepper, ensuring its inherent flavours shone through, with the refreshing sweet mint sauce cutting through any lingering oiliness.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… hokkaido butter scallop
It’s with some reluctance we then moved onto the Hokkaido Butter Scallops, but only because we knew it was the concluding course. Undeniably a guilty pleasure, the buttery sauce enhanced (while simultaneously tempering) the oceanic accents of the mollusc, allowing its sweet tenderness to shine through. As with the day’s other dishes, it again showcased the chef’s deft understanding of the delicate interplay between each ingredient the notes imparted by grilling over an open fire – undoubtedly two of the many reasons why Ensō could well be K-Town’s next Big Thing.

 

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Top Omakase sushi restaurants in Hong Kong

Suchic: The chicest sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio

Typically, izakayas – Japan’s singular take on the more informal form of hostelry – are seen as smoky, rowdy drinking dens, places where the food takes a back seat to the serious business of boozing. Many, however, now boast more of a 21st century ethos, something that one intrepid Hong Kong restaurant is looking to capitalise on by offering a vibrant range of delicious and delicate Nipponese dishes. The establishment in question of course, is Silencio, one of the best-kept secrets on the sixth floor of Central’s LKF Tower.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio Chef Sato Kiyoshi

Having first opened its doors two years ago, it is now under new management in the form of recently-arrived Executive Chef Sato Kiyoshi, a Japanese-born culinary whizz who earnt his spurs with stints in Australia, London, Singapore as well as back in his homeland. Acknowledging the impact his international experiences have had on his personal style, he says: “Thankfully, I had the opportunity to work under some true masters, and I think their passion for experimenting with flavours and improvising with ingredients made a strong impression on me. Their creative spirit and culinary flair is something I strive to recreate for all the diners who come to Silencio.”

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio seasonal otoshi

Eager to see this philosophy in action, we began our tasting with a beautifully plated amuse bouche – Seasonal Otoshi. Here, set atop a bed of seaweed, could be found three spherical raw seafood bites with scallop and multiple cuts of tuna. The former was, undoubtedly, the most unusual of these and came with green apple and topped with a subtle apple dashi jelly as a refreshingly tangy palate cleanser.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio tuna trio

Then it was on to the first appetiser – Tuna Trio. As the name suggests, this take on nigiri sushi saw three cuts of tuna – a sliver each of a lean akami, a medium-fat chutoro and a fatty otoro – layered atop each other on a bed of rice. A deft balancing act, each mouthful allowed for comprehensive appreciation for the myriad flavours of this much-coveted fish dish. A dash of soy sauce the sole accompaniment, it imparted delightful umami notes to each biteful.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio Aki – Pomard beef tartare

Staying with the cold course motif, next to arrive was the Aki – Pomard beef tartare topped with medallions of pear and radish, all served with an intriguing black rice cracker. A veritable study in textures, the subtle meatiness of the beef was, in turn, enhanced with the sweetness of the pear and juiciness of the radish, with the accompanying creamy hollandaise sauce imparting a touch of richness to proceedings.
Then, with more than a hint of flourish, Chef Sato served up the most visually stunning plate of the session – Sakura. Taking its cue from the eponymous flower that is so well loved by the Japanese, the dish featured flowering petals of pink, purple and white radish, all laid upon squared cubes of tuna. Underpinning this was a unique sauce, comprising nori seaweed oil and a paste reduced from last year’s crushed cherry blossom petals. Undeniably tart, this ceviche-esque dish once again showcased the chef’s indisputable knack for integrating strong flavours into surprisingly nuanced plates.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio wagyu

The final savoury course then took its turn on the table in the form of Wagyu, a decadent steak dish featuring perfectly-cooked slivers of medium-rare beef presented amid a white garlic cream and a dense black garlic jus. Brimming with rich umami flavours, the dual garlic sauces nevertheless allowed the melt-in-your-mouth morsels of beef to shine through, with the accompanying chives and makomotake – a type of fungal root – bringing an added layer of crunchiness.

gafencu japanese izakaya sushi and wagyu at Central’s Silencio hokkaido dessert
To round off our tasting, Chef Sato once again dipped into the rich cuisine-related traditions of his homeland serving up the distinctly snowy winter-themed dessert, Hokkaido. Startlingly monochromatic, this all-white treat forefronted brown butter ice cream atop a Hokkaido milk cream base, all topped with crunchy dehydrated milk crackers. Comprising a veritable torrent of textures, this deliciously creamy concoction once again showcased the chef’s signature style pairing visually arresting plating with a riot of flavours. All, of course, balanced to perfection.

Suschic: Stylish sea-to-table sushi proves The Araki has arrived

There’s long been a special place in the heart of many of Hong Kong’s most discerning diners for one particular dish – sushi. Indeed, the city’s culinary landscape is dotted with a plethora of establishments serving up this uniquely Japanese cuisine at pretty much every imaginable price point. When it comes to Michelin-starred sushi standouts, however, the Fragrant Harbour boasts just three – three-starred Sushi Saikon, two-starred Sushi Saito and one-starred Sushi Wadatsumi.

Change, though, is in the air, with Mitsuhiro Araki – the only Japanese chef to ever attain much coveted Michelin treble-star status in both London and Tokyo – having now opened an outpost in Asia’s World City. His bold new venture – The Araki – is an exclusive 12-seat restaurant and can be found tucked in to the old stablery, part of Tsim Sha Tsui’s refurbished Heritage 1881 compound.

araki

Discreet by design, Chef Araki’s Hong Kong debut dinery was conceived as a homage to Edomae sushi, a style developed in Tokyo-some 200 year ago as a means of keeping seafood fresh long before the invention of refrigeration. This saw the canny cooks of the day resorting to infusions of salt, miso and soy sauce as a way of ensuring their fine produce remained perfectly edible long after it had been caught. It’s a time-honoured tradition and one said to yield far more in terms of texture, flavour and sheer melt-in-the-mouth satisfaction than the solely raw seafood-on-rice approach favoured by many contemporary establishments.

Accordingly, when dining at The Araki, guests should expect a multi-course omakase menu, one continuously customised to make best use of the day’s finest freshly-caught ingredients. In one telling break with tradition, however, Araki personally oversees the inventorying, visiting the wet markets daily to source the best local seafood and specifying regular deliveries of certain fish found solely in Japanese waters.

Outlining his culinary philosophy, he said: “While people always assume the best quality seafood must come from Japan, that is not the case for every ingredient. As the ocean doesn’t recognise national boundaries, it is important to build relationships with local fisherman wherever you are in the world, whether that’s Japan, the UK or Hong Kong. That is the only way to ensure you always get the very best seafood.”

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Eager to see how his approach pans out in practice, we pretty much pounced on our tasting fingers as soon as they appeared. To be fair, we were only following orders as we had been briefed that every item of sushi would be served directly onto the wooden countertop – with the requisite wasabi and sauce already applied – and should be consumed (using one hand only) within seconds of its arrival.

Appropriately enough, the first to be table-topped was the Tuna. As Araki is a world-renowned tuna master, our expectations were high. Fortunately, his truly delicious nigiri more than delivered – all melt-in-the-mouth morsels of tuna carved lovingly from the fish’s exquisitely tasty neck region.

araki

Next to tempt our taste buds was Young Snapper, sourced fresh from the local wet markets and beautifully tender thanks to its relative infancy. Creamy yet firm, its flavours were enhanced with a dash of Thai lime, giving it a refreshingly citrusy aftertaste.

Barely had we completed this memorable course when the next locally-sourced sushi offering – Mantis Shrimp – took its on-table turn. Rather than being served raw, it was instead lightly poached, with only a dash of soy sauce to enhance its inherent sweetness. Boasting a somewhat crunchy texture, its cooked flesh was  wonderfully counterpointed by the subtly tangy rice and came in sharp contrast to its raw counterpart.

Perhaps the most stunning course of all, though, was the Ebi Oboro with Prawn Crumb. Another cooked dish, here the ebi prawn came wrapped in oboro, a surprisingly soft, crumbly shrimp paste created by grinding prawns for hours on end. Together, they form a delectably cohesive whole, with the sweet crunch of the prawn and smoothness of the oboro merging synergistically before serenading your taste buds with their joyous unity.

araki

From start to finish, Chef Araki’s passion and mastery over his craft was never less than wholly evident. From the undeniably high quality of the ingredients – “I check the eyes, gills and firmness to make sure each fish is perfect. If it’s not 100 percent, it’s not going to make the cut” – and flawlessly precise seasonings to the intimate atmosphere of the dining experience, every aspect of The Araki’s omakase tasting is exceptionally well orchestrated, with each individual dish striking a deliciously different note. Small wonder, then, that you currently have to book several months in advance should you want to check out Chef Araki for yourself.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Images: The Araki

Restaurants serving the best brunch menus in 2020

Starting with a mouthwatering appetiser to the delicious main course and ending it with a sweet dessert, brunch is usually not just a meal but an entire experience. And if you’re in the mood for some culinary indulgences, we, at Gafencu, have put together a list of restaurants that are offering some of the best brunch menus with a plethora of culinary traditions to pick from.  

aqua

brunch menus

Bringing the best dishes from the Italian and Japanese cuisine to your table is modern restaurant aqua‘s Because Gold Room Brunch. With the restaurant’s Roma kitchen choices like the Antipasto Italiano to the delicacies like Hamachi and Kampachi from its Tokyo kitchen, you are in for a treat. Along with the meal, a free flow of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne option is also available for you to sip while enjoying the fine-dining establishment’s stunning vistas across Victoria Harbour. For discerning diners with a confirmed sweet tooth, the new Gold Room experience, situated in a separate room where you enter by showing a golden card, is the main reason you should not miss the brunch at aqua. Be it the macaroon tree or the chocolate fountain, the dessert room looks and feels like a fairy tale. Moreover, the restaurant is also offering a special limited-edition dessert ‒ Gold Ingot Tiramisu on January for the Chinese New Year. This new brunch menu is available from 12:00pm to 3:00pm on weekends and public holidays until January 31, 2020. www.aqua.com.hk

Location: aqua, 29 + 30F, One Peking, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Price: HK$688 per person + 10% service charge. Champagne free-flow packages from HK$588 per person. 

Lobster Bar and Grill

brunch menus

Popular for its contemporary European cuisine, the Island Shangri-La’s high-end restaurant Lobster Bar and Grill serves an extravagant weekend brunch menu ‒ Lobster Boil that brings the taste of New Orleans to your plate. Meant to be eaten in the traditional way ‒ diving in with your fingers first ‒  the dishes are served straight from the cooking pot on the table. Moreover, tipplers can also enjoy the Bloody Mary crafting session, along with live music by a Cajun band. With unlimited flow of dishes like whole Boston Lobster, Short Neck Clams, Blue Mussels, Razor Clams, this brunch is an entertaining meal, to say the least. Available from 12:00pm to 2:30pm on every Sunday, the brunch comes with free-flow of selected Veuve Clicquot Champagne, Young Master Beer, Bloody Mary cocktail and juices. Click here or contact via email (lbandgrill.isl@shangri-la.com) or phone (+852 2820 8560) to make your reservation. 

Location: Level 6, Island Shangri-la, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong

Price: HK$898 per person + 10% service charge

Statement

brunch menus

An experience that combines the art of tableside carving with soul-satisfyingly meaty meal is the Britannia Brunch by the British restaurant Statement. From the Tai Kwun-set culinary outpost’s signature dishes like Roast British beef with Yorkshire pudding to the vegetarian favourites like the Impossible™ beef, spinach & mushroom Wellington with chimichurri, the menu is filled with mouthwatering choices. Besides the Salt-baked fish of the day which can be shared among two to four people for an additional charge of HK$228 is an absolute delight for seafood lovers. For desserts there are various pudding options including the British sticky toffee pudding and more. Available from 12:00pm to 3:00pm on weekends and public holidays, Britannia brunch comes with a free-flow of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne, wine and choice of cocktails. www.statement.com.hk

Location: Statement, Police Headquarters, Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

Price: HK$628 per person 

Tapas Bar

brunch menus

Known for its classic dishes that are enjoyed best when eaten shared, Tapas Bar serves the Tapas Brunch that comes with a range of Spanish treats. The menu includes the restaurant’s exclusive dishes like the tuna and watermelon ceviche, the traditional Spanish tortilla and more. Along with the dishes, the wine bar is obviously serving a free-flow of alcoholic drinks. Served from 1:00pm to 4:00pm on Sundays, this brunch takes place in an al fresco setting.

Location: 64 Mody Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Price: HK$590 + 10% service charge per person

Honjo

brunch menus

Known for its simple recipes that allow the flavours of the ingredients to stand out, the Japanese restaurant Honjo is offering a new brunch menu. Featuring a variety of sashimi, sushi, maki and oyster dishes created by Executive Chef Miguel Huelamo, the menu is sure to be a heavenly treat for all the pescatarians out there. The brunch also includes some Japanese starters and main dishes like Baked Chicken with buttered mushrooms. Moreover, this family-friendly meal also includes a dessert station in the end. Available from 12:00pm to 2:30pm on weekends and public holidays, the brunch is accompanied by a free-flow of alcoholic drinks including sake, wines and cocktails. www.honjo.hk

Location: 1/F, Hollywood Centre, 77-91 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Price: HK$468 per adult + HK$198 for free-flow alcohol and HK$98 per child

Chaiwala

brunch menus

If you love the rich taste of Indian delicacies, Chaiwala’s The Holi Brunch menu is right up your radar. The newly updated menu includes street food favourites like Bhel Puri, Papdi and Aloo Chana. Following it for the main course, there’s an enticing array of dosas, biryanis and tikkas  from which you can choose one. With curries being a very important part of the Indian cuisine, the restaurant offers great options including Kerala Fish Curry, Saag Paneer, Old Delhi Butter Chicken and more. Along with all these dishes, there is a free-flow of alcohol and the sweet yoghurt drink Lassi in three flavours ‒ classic, mango and banana. This family-friendly brunch is available from 12:00pm to 2:30pm on weekends and public holidays. www.chaiwala.hk

Location: No. 43-55, Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong

Price: HK$298 per person + HK$180 for free-flow alcohol package + HK$120 for Lassi

Temakeria (TMK)

brunch menus

Unlike most restaurants, Temakeria, one of Hong Kong’s favourite punk-themed eateries, offers two brunch menu options ‒ Light and Ravenous – so you can choose whatever whets your appetite. While the Light menu will suit the tastes of anyone who wants a light repast paired with delicious drinks, the Ravenous one will be loved by those who have suitably prepared to feast their hearts out. The selected food for these brunch menus include Karaage, Edamame, Wagyu Tataki and more. Moreover, there is an amazing list of hand roll choices, all mouthwatering, the only dilemma will be having to choose. Similar to the other Pirata Group restaurants ‒ Honjo and Chaiwala, TMK also serves the brunch menus from 12:00pm to 2:30pm on weekends and public holidays. www.tmk.hk

Location: Shops G & H, G/F and M/F, Hollywood Centre, 77-91 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Price: HK$198 per person for the Light menu and HK$288 per person for the Ravenous menu

Check out the new signature dishes at Brazilian-Japanese restaurant Uma Nota

The SoHo-based hipsterish eatery, Uma Nota, which brings Brazilian-Japanese street food to upmarket Hong Kong, has just launched ten new dishes this summer, all under the able stewardship of Chef Gustavo Vargas.

For the uninitiated, São Paulo, one of the most famous cities in Brazil, is home to one of the largest populations of Japanese expats, who over the decades have shaped Brazilian cuisine, especially its street food culture in a way that is unique to the region. Thankfully, now gourmands can savour an even-wider range of dishes from this unique cuisine owing to the culinary team at Uma Nota.

Uma Nota
Polvo Teriyaki

Eager to taste-test their enhanced menu, we started with a range of appetisers. The first up was Dadinhos de tapioca – deep-fried cheese cubes with tapioca granules meant to be consumed with a spicy dip. Simultaneously crunchy and chewy, these nibbles proved to be just the kind of appetite-building starters that we needed for the next dish, which was the Croqueta de linguica. This proved to be delightfully crispy on the outside with the soft pork and potato filling inside giving it a creamy texture that melted in our mouths. 

However, the true highlight of this section was the Polvo teriyaki – pan-fried octopus and sweet potato with house-made teriyaki sauce. A simple dish in itself, the sweetness of the potato complemented the salty-sweetness of the sauce. The best part, however, was the perfectly charred octopus whose smokiness elevated the dish further.

In the skewers section, the beef skewers were sumptuous in themselves, but made even more delicious with the addition of with farofa, a kind of Brazilian crumb made with toasted flour. After the beef cubes had been dipped in the spicy sauce and coated with farofa, let’s just say they disappeared from our plates at the speed of light.

Uma Nota
Robalo – signature dish at Uma Nota

Of the mains, the Robalo Assado em Folha de Bananeira was a hearty affair definitely meant for sharing. Consisting of a sea bass fillet roasted inside banana leaves with fried banana, farofa and a fresh salad of red onion, tomato and coriander, it was perfectly steamed and given an added zing with the addition of the fresh onions and tomatoes. However, the fish had fine bones in it, which marred the overall experience of an otherwise finely executed dish. Those looking to give proteins a break may also like the Berinjela – a roasted eggplant with miso, goat’s cheese and cashews. Silky smooth with just the right amount of crunchiness coming courtesy of the cashews, there’s really nothing not to like about this dish.  

Almost in a food coma by this time, we decided to give the desserts a break, but with the servers assuring us that both the Brazilian cheesecake and the black sesame mousse are innovations worth checking out, maybe that’s enough reason to go back to Uma Nota sometime soon. Very soon.

38 Peel St, Central. +852 2889 7576. www.uma-nota.com
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Kagura offers rare Mirai beef in an authentic farm-to-table experience

Admit it, there is something soul-satisfying about grilling meat over an open fire. Hence, to channel this primordial instinct, we have everything from barbeque to yakiniku, the Japanese equivalent of meat-grilling, all of which are immensely popular among Hong Kong diners, who are notorious for their love of all things meaty. Now, all such meat enthusiasts can make a beeline for Elements mall in Kowloon, where Japanese yakiniku restaurant Kagura is serving up Mirai, a form of rare beef from Hokkaido, which is at least as delicious as the famous Wagyu. 

Kagura

So what makes this Mirai beef so special anyway? According to Haruyoshi Kashiwaba, the owner of Kagura, it’s because the meat comes from Kagura’s own farm, Oakleaf in Hokkaido. Cattle at Oakleaf are fed with high-quality fodder and are kept in a comfortable, clean and spacious environment, resulting in a meat that’s tender, finely marbled and highly aromatic. No wonder then that the restaurant’s Hokkaido-based outlet already has a loyal client base, something that Mr. Kashiwaba is eager to recreate in Hong Kong, Kagura’s only overseas location.

Kagura

From what we tasted during our recent visit to Kagura in Hong Kong, it shouldn’t be a difficult job at all. To encourage guests to fully indulge in the succulent meat, Kagura serves up an array of uncommon parts of the Mirai beef, like flank – which has rich flavours and thick fibres – or the bottom flap – which is aromatic with fine marbling. Diners can also try the Rump in Pot, which comprises marinated strips of meat between the cow’s ribs that are rich in marbling and rich in flavours. But in order to have the full range of flavours, it’s best to order the Assorted Mirai Beef Rare Parts Yakiniku Platter, a fulfilling combination of texture and taste that will satiate even the most discerning meatophile in you.

Yakiniku Kagura
Shop 1086, 1/F, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon
+852 2682 3913

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Heartwarming dishes and fiery showmanship liven up winters at Uoharu

From the time it opened in October last year, Uoharu – the first overseas branch of the popular Tokyo-based izakaya – has been clear in its mission of recreating a slice of Japan in the heart of Central. Indeed as you take in the dimly lit interiors after entering through a door with a deliberately low ceiling (so that you have to bow down to enter, thereby showing respect in Japanese culture), you’d be forgiven if you thought you had accidentally been transported to an eatery in Kyoto’s famous Gion district.

Uoharu
Uohara’s minimalist interiors

Now with Uoharu’s winter menu, which introduces five new heartwarming dishes, the feeling of being embraced by Japanese tradition is even more heightened than ever. But even before we taste-tested the new additions to the menu, our interest was already piqued by the first appetisers, the disarmingly simple platter of seasonal fruits and vegetables called Otoshi, served with a warm savoury anchovy sauce that blended perfectly with the slightly sweeter flavours of the veggies.

Uoharu
Karubi with bone

Eager to try the rest of the dishes, we then dove into the next dish Karubi with bone – a thoroughly meaty affair slow-cooked for three hours to give you that exquisite melt-in-the-mouth sensation.

But our tryst with meaty matters was far from over with the next dish – Wagyu Foie Gras Sukiyaki – which featured A4 Wagyu beef from Kagoshima and Hungarian Foie Gras as the star ingredients – proving to be a delectable combination of tender and tasty sensations on the palate.

Uoharu
Wagyu Foie Gras Sukiyaki

Seafood lovers would also have much to look forward to at Uoharu, with the Crab Croquette Rice and the Premium Seafood Steamed Egg both turning out to be creamy  affairs packed with marine flavours. However, the show-stealer in the ‘seafood’ category was undoubtedly the Grilled Whole Tai with Japanese Arima Sansho Pepper, a whole sea bream grilled with house-made soy sauce. Thanks to the light pepper seasoning, the full flavours of the fish were enhanced even further, creating a veritable tango on our taste buds.

Uoharu
Grilled Tai fish with Japanese pepper – a signature at Uoharu

At Uoharu, the showmanship is far from over though. On certain evenings, the guests are treated to a ‘fish grilling performance’, a visually stunning performance in which the head chef flash-grills a fish in an otherwise darkened room, while being cheered on by his colleagues and assembled diners alike. Indeed, if you’re planning to visit Uoharu anytime soon, don’t be alarmed if the lights turn off suddenly, instead grab your phone and turn on Instagram Live, because the action’s just about to start…

Address: 7/F, M88 Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington Street – Central 
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay