Gaia Ristorante continues to impress with elevated Italian cuisine

If there was ever a Hong Kong locale that called to mind the charm of a Roman piazza, it is surely the open plaza abutting Central’s Grand Millennium Plaza. How fortuitous, then, that nestled amid the lush foliage and grandiose staircases lies one of the city’s most iconic Italian restaurants – Gaia Ristorante. Having first opened its doors just over two decades ago, this grand dame of the SAR’s F&B scene has more than held its own through the never-ending waves of new eateries that have risen and fallen and risen again across the intervening years.

So, in a city where restaurants open and close at the drop of a hat, what’s the secret to Gaia’s outstanding longevity? “While our offerings are not that different from many other Italian eateries in the city, after more than two decades, we’ve put together a very solid offering. We focus on fresh ingredients and classic recipes that have been tried and tested with discerning diners over the years,” explains owner Pino Piano. “More importantly, we listen to our customers’ feedback. Some of our patrons have been coming back to us for two generations now, and if they’d like something tweaked slightly, we are more than happy to accommodate them.”

Affable and charming, Naples-born Piano is a stalwart of the industry who has seen the evolution of the city’s dining scene first-hand. Recalling Gaia’s early days, he says: “Things were totally different when we first began. We were the first restaurant to introduce al-fresco dining to the central business district. Up until that point, outdoor dining could only be found farther afield in Sai Kung or the outlying islands.”

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gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-artichoke — Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-fritto — Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga

Eager to sample the fare that has enchanted the city since 2001, we begin our tasting with two appetisers – Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia and Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga. The former is an ancient Roman-Jewish dish of flowering artichoke hearts that are boiled then deep-fried. Crisp on the outside and deliciously succulent on the inside, it’s an enticing opening act. The latter starter of fried calamari and red prawns is equally delicious. Each morsel here is lightly battered and fried before being sprinkled with anchovy salt, with an optional squeeze of lemon deftly cutting through the inherent oiliness of the dish.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-spaghetti — Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti

Continuing with the seafood motif, our next course of Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti arrives tableside. Topped with a juicy, generously sized Mediterranean red king prawn, the underlying spaghetti is cooked to al-dente perfection and ladened with smaller shelled prawns as well. The sauce, too, merits particular mention, with the tanginess and slight piquancy of the spicy cherry tomatoes serving as the perfect foil for the oceanic accents of the dish.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-manzo-wagyu — Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso

Onto the mains, we begin with the decadent Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso, featuring a sliced slab of wagyu sirloin accompanied by asparagus and Romanesco broccoli. Cows at the Mayura farm in Australia are given a chocolate-laden diet that is said to enhance the tenderness and flavour of their beef. Umami-laden and melt-in-your-mouth soft, this is guaranteed to be a hit with any meat-minded diner.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-spigola in crosta di sale alle — Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina

With our waistlines getting dangerously tight, the final course hoves into view: a beautiful plate of Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina (an oven-baked sea bass accompanied by lemon and chives). The fish in question is, as Piano explains, first deboned then coated in a salt-and-egg white crust before being baked in the oven – a deft move that sees all its inherent flavours retained. Once unpacked, a dash of lemon and a sprinkling of chopped chives are all the garnishes required. A delicious blend of crunchy skin and fall-off-the-bone tender flesh, it’s small wonder that this signature dish has been on the menu since Gaia’s inception.

Gaia Ristorante. Unit 01-05, G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Central. (852) 2167 8200

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Also Read: Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Fusion is a term that has been bandied about in culinary circles for a long time and remains as divisive as its definition is broad. Some deem the entire category as gimmicky and unimaginative, focusing more on style than substance. For its proponents, however, it is a creative reimagining of beloved cuisines that blend two disparate traditions into a synergistic whole.

It is exactly with this spirit in mind that Pazzi Isshokenmei opened its doors in Central’s new lifestyle hub H Queen’s. In particular, the expansive 6,000-square-foot eatery deftly blends Italian ingredients and techniques with the flavours of traditional Japanese izakaya. Even the name reflects its dual roots, with ‘pazzi’ meaning ‘crazy’ in Italian, and ‘Isshokenmei’ being the culturally significant Japanese term for ‘doing something difficult with all one’s might’.

The brainchild of Philip Chow – a 20-year veteran of Hong Kong’s bustling F&B scene – this bold new restaurant is, as its promotional materials aptly claim, “a marriage between boundary-pushing creativity and laser-like precision that manifests in exquisite flavour pairings and fastidious plating”.

Our lunchtime tasting began with a visually stunning plate of Pink Prawn Tartare. Laced with edible flowers and healthy dollops of caviar, the tartare proper features fresh pink prawns tossed in yoghurt to enhance its inherent creaminess. Imparting elements of tartness are slivers of green apple and refreshing Japanese cucumber, with the base sauce of ponzu and shiso leaf oil adding a welcome tanginess to the proceedings.

Though small in size, the second appetiser – Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian starter of veal and sardines – was equally pleasing to the eye. Here, super slim medallions of veal are topped with chunks of tuna and a light mayonnaise, with the accompanying crouton cubes and cucumber slices bequeathing each mouthful with a delightful crunch.

Then the first main of Lobster Spaghetti hoves into view. The freshly made pasta is tossed in a delicious lobster sauce – made all the richer by a long, slow-cooking process – though the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the succulent cooked lobster that tops the dish. Packed with oceanic accents, this is a surefire hit for any fan of this beloved shellfish.

Next to arrive was another seafood pasta course – Crab Tagliolini. In a nod to the restaurant’s East-meets-West inspiration, the prime Japanese pairing of crab and miso is given an Italian spin here. Thin strands of tagliolini – made fresh daily – are laden with generous helpings of shredded crab meat, while caramelised onions and miso-rich gravy elevate the dish further by adding an umami-packed punch to each mouthful.

Our final course looked beyond the bounds of Italian and Japanese culinary traditions to that of France. Duck Confit is fronted by two perfectly-cooked ‘steaks’ of duck; the meaty morsels are melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the crispy skin bestows a delectable edgy bite. Accompaniments of potato stacks and beetroot salad further enhance this truly soul-satisfying dish.

From start to finish, every plate in our tasting menu was a symphony of stunning flavours and arresting visual appeal. By taking the best of Japanese and Italian culinary traditions, Pazzi creates something far greater than the sum of its parts, tantalising taste buds and eyes in equal measure. In the end, this is truly fusion cuisine at its finest.

Pazzi Isshokenmei. (852) 2555 0666. 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Giovanni Pina: Newest Italian restaurant in Central

Following the successes of his K11 Musea and Nina Mall outlets, renowned Italian pastry chef Giovanni Pina has pulled back the curtain of a new, eponymous flagship bakery-cum-restaurant in Central. The latest, and swankiest, Giovanni Pina will allow the city’s eager epicureans to sample both sweet and savoury Italian flavours in a modern setting.

Pina is not only a 40-year veteran baker with countless international accolades to his name, he’s also the third generation of a century-old lineage; his grandfather first opened a small pastry shop in the northern Italian town of Trescore Balneario in, yes, 1920. The grandson’s latest offering features interiors inspired by aristocratic European castles of old. Featuring wooden accents, plush purple upholstery and a massive chandelier, the 40-seat eatery affords patrons direct views of the open kitchen. This is where the culinary magic happens, where the chef’s now-famous traditional-meets-contemporary style is on full display.

Eager to savour the results of this fusion of old-meets-new experimentation, our own tasting began with a classic Italian appetiser – Burrata and Seasonal Tomato Salad with Basil infused Balsamic Vinegar Dressing. The inherent creaminess of the fresh buffalo cheese is enhanced by the tartness of the accompanying tri-coloured baby tomatoes, while the house-pickled black garlic imparts a delicious hint of umami to the proceedings. Refreshing yet decadent, it is elevated further by the basil-infused balsamic vinaigrette, which imparts a welcome earthiness.

Next to arrive was Handmade Pappardelle with Porcini Ragu with Pan-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu Sirloin. Fronted by melt-in-your-mouth slivers of Kagoshima A4 Wagyu and perfectly al dente home-made pappardelle pasta, the star ingredient here is undoubtedly the porcini ragù. This sauce is truly a labour of love, requiring porcini mushrooms to be soaked overnight before being simmered with three additional types of Japanese mushrooms and short ribs for over four hours. Thick and brimming with flavour, it bequeaths a delicious richness to the Tuscan-style pasta while also tempering the fattiness of the meat.

We then sampled another signature dish of the restaurant – Pan-fried Jumbo Scallops & Asparagus Risotto. A deft display of Chef Pina’s ability to create a dish far greater than the sum of its parts, the risotto is creamy without being overwhelming, thanks to interspersed slivers of asparagus. Topping the all-white affair are two generously sized scallops, which are further garnished with heaped helpings of black caviar. It’s an indulgent and decadent affair, but with a measure of subtlety that allows its oceanic accents to shine through on the palate.

Scarcely had we finished our risotto when a platter of Black Truffle Scrocchiarella hovered into view. Once tableside, the maître d’ garnished the dish with shavings of fresh black truffle. For the uninitiated, scrocchiarella – the crunchy one in Italian – is the Roman take on pizza dough and delivers an authentic thin-crust style of pizza. In this instance, the bread base was light, airy and chewy, while the aromatic truffle and rich cheese combination raised it to the level of pure satisfaction. This, unsurprisingly, is comfort food at its finest.

Given Chef Pina’s legendary reputation as a pâtissier, no trip to the restaurant would be complete without sampling some of his sweeter bakes, so it was no surprise that the final course of our expansive tasting menu came in the form of a dozen Pasticcini Mignon, or mini pastries. As beautiful as they were delicious, it was an endless selection to choose from, but no chore to identify our favourites. We settled very happily indeed on the pistachio cream, pine nut and almond tarts, which were fresh and flavourful with just a hint of sweetness.

Giovanni Pina. G/F, Two Chinachem Plaza, 135 Des Voeux Rd, Central. (852) 2811 9888.
(Photos: Giovani Pina 1920)

Casa in Point: Sai Ying Pun’s homely cucina offers a hearty Italian fare

Most eateries that feed the legendary epicurean appetites of Hong Kong’s urbanites are concentrated in high-density residential and business hubs like Central, Wanchai and Causeway Bay. It’s a daring spirit indeed who opts to eschew these hotspots in favour of a more off-the-beaten-path locale, but such is the case of one new Italian restaurant – Casa Cucina & Bar – that has popped up in a less frequented stretch of Sai Ying Pun.

Nestled on the corner of Connaught Road and Western Street, this highway-fronting three-storey venue was, by the admission of chef-owner Anthony Cheung, something of a gamble. “I originally wanted to open an eight-seat pasta bar, but in the end, the amazing rent of this location was just too tempting to resist,” he explains. Despite its capacious footprint, however, there’s something distinctly homely and welcoming about Casa’s interiors, where warm pinks, beige and orange embrace the 66 seats.

The food is also wonderfully hearty and accessible, focusing more on small family-style sharing platters rather than hefty mains and carbohydrates. “I want diners to experience Italy in my dishes,” says Cheung, “but I want to do it with my own unique style, with an emphasis on high-quality produce and a dash of Hong Kong mixed in as well.”

Eager to see his philosophy in practice, we begin our tasting with a cold appetiser, Scallop Carpaccio. A refreshing opening act, the creaminess of the thick slivers of raw scallop is enhanced with crunchy bites of seaweed and fried garlic. Cutting through the oceanic accents is a dash of pineapple juice, which imparts a hint of sweetness.
Next up is Duck Ragu Pappadelle, a Casa signature. The poultry is painstakingly braised in its own jus, while the perfectly al dente pasta enjoys a special richness thanks to the judicious addition of chicken liver parfait and cocoa powder. Soul satisfying without being overwhelmingly heavy, this is truly comfort food at its finest.

Then, a platter of Lamb Rack hovers into view, featuring three perfectly cooked ribs atop a bed of Cajun-spiced potato wedges. The New Zealand grass-fed lamb’s melt-in-your-mouth factor is, apparently, the result of careful preparation in the oven. It is the accompanying Madeira- and green peppercorn-infused sauce, though, lifts the flavour profile of the entire plate, bequeathing it with a memorable tingly spiciness.

Chef Cheung then shifts the focus back to the ocean with Cod Acqua Pazza – literally ‘cod in crazy water’. His particular iteration of the traditional fish stew, long a staple in coastal Italy, sees the fish in question braised alongside clams in a tangy blend of clam juice, tomatoes and olives. In keeping with the rustic nature of the dish, the accompanying slices of bread can be then dipped into the soup after the seafood has been consumed.

Although our appetites are already well and truly satiated, we manage to make room for the concluding course, Tofu Panna Cotta. Here, the traditional panna cotta is coated with red sugar – a staple topping for Hong Kong’s iconic ‘tofu fa’ dessert – and a splash of soy flavour, which meld to impart an umami-filled caramel sauce. Deceptively simple, it is perhaps this singular dish that best showcases Chef Cheung’s personal style and culinary vision, harmoniously fusing flavours from both East and West for a memorable dessert that’s far greater than the sum of its parts.

Casa Cucina & Bar
Shops 8 & 9, 158A Connaught Road West, Sai Ying Pun.
(852) 2887 9666
casacucina.hk

Father’s Day Weekend: A gastronomical treat for the leading man in your life

Treat the leading man in your life to Lan Kwai Fong’s top Italian and Japanese restaurants this Father’s Day weekend.

What better way to celebrating the leading man in your life than to spoil him with a sumptuous gourmet meal to mark the upcoming Father’s Day. Set right in the heart of the city’s wine and dine hotspot, Lan Kwai Fong offers a diversified selection of Father’s Day Menus courtesy of LKF’s most notable and talented culinary teams. From contemporary Italian delights at Aria and Ciao Chow to mouth-watering steak dinners at Kyoto Joe to a special dad-cantered Omakase menu at Tokio Joe, make this Father’s Day an occasion to remember for dear Father on the coming June 20.

A contemporary Italian fare at Aria
Getting Father’s Day afternoon started with a sophisticated contemporary Italian fare at Aria will surely be a treat for dads come June 20, especially with Chef Andrea Zamboni’s revamped menu featuring a slew of creative iterations of modern Italian cuisine, such as the Poached Boston Lobster in Sardinian Style with Tomatoes, Onion and Lemon; Japanese Wagyu A4-8 Rib Eye and Milk-fed Lamb with Friar beard and Liquorice; as well as a range of house-made pasta with Beef Bolognese and Chitarra with Braised Oxtail Ragout; All with a panoramic view of LKF skyline in the backdrop.

In addition, each dad dining on Father’s Day will receive a complimentary glass of special cocktail ‘Per te Papà’ (Gin, Coffee and Cocoa infused Campari, Vermouth and Dark chocolate).

Price: From HK$990 /person + 10% service charge
Location: 24/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2804 1116 / ariaitalian.com

A scrumptious Italian brunch at Ciao Chow
What better time to get the family together to celebrate the man of the house than over brunch, especially if the offerings are as irresistible and scrumptious as Ciao Chow’s delightful brunch buffet. Presenting a long list of over 25 types of Italian delicacies from salad bar, carving station and dessert corner, and the house’s not-to-be-missed signature Neapolitan Pizza with VPN certification cooked-to-order courtesy of Executive Chef John Leung and his special Father’s Day touch.

Price: HK$488 /person + 10% service charge
Location: G/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2344 0005 / ciaochowlkf.com

Mouth-watering wagyu beef at Kyoto Joe
Treat your sushi-loving father to an ultra chic sushi fare at the Izakaya-themed Japanese restaurant Kyoto Joe. Offering an all-new all-you-can-eat dinner offering prepared by Chef Dow and his talented kitchen team. Presenting new and irresistible wagyu items specially for the carnivorous dads such as the Kobe Beef Roll, Saga Wagyu Tataki and Saga Wagyu Hot Pot.

The menu includes unlimited Hero Sushi Rolls, Salads/Appetizers, Sashimi and Robatayaki Grill (available for both brunch and dinner buffets) along side an optional free flow alcohol packages (HK$298) and a complimentary set of Tanai Kogen Ginrou IPA and Ginrou White Beer for a memorable Father’s Day gift.

Price: From HK$528 /adult, HK$280 /child + 10% service charge
Location: 23/F California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2804 6800 / kyotojoe.com

A modern Omakase journey at Tokio Joe
New school dads who are too cool for the norm will surely be impressed with the curb-side Omakase-style Tokio Joe and their newly launched Father’s Day lunch and dinner menus for that special man in your life. Executive Chef Wah highlights the natural flavours of the premium ingredients he sources with a touch of modern flare.

Featuring the Tuna Salad, Wagyu Tataki, Joe’s Appetizer Trio and A5 Saga Beef Inaniwa Udon, alongside a complimentary glass of Hakurakusei Junmai Ginjo, as the latest of their offerings. Not to mention, dads dining on the Father’s Day will receive a complimentary set of AJB Co. Nozawa Black Stout and White Wheat Beer.

Price: From HK$529 /per person (lunch); From HK$1,100 /person (dinner) + 10% service charge
Location: 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central
For bookings: +852 2525 1889 / tokiojoe.com

For more information visit www.lankwaifong.com.

A Cut Above: Tosca di Angelo is no leaning tower of pizza

It’s admittedly hard not to immediately be wowed when stepping into Tosca di Angelo, the one Michelin-starred Italian fine-dining establishment that resides on the 102nd floor of Kowloon’s International Commerce Centre and forms part of the ever-stately Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. Upon entering the restaurant, its floor-to-ceiling windows offer sweeping views across the city’s iconic skyline – and it’s perched some 450m high – making it quite a sight.

Back 10 years ago, when it first opened its doors, it held the record for being the highest Italian restaurant in the world. Whether that’s still the case or not, given it has held onto its Michelin star for eight years running, you might be forgiven for assuming the view is but a sideshow to the majesty of the culinary creations found within, all of which are prepared under the auspices of Chef Angelo Agliano.

Having helmed the restaurant for three years, he sums up his vision for Tosca di Angelo thus: “I come from Sicily, but I’ve had experience across the world, including Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong. So, I want to serve dishes that reveal these international accents, but whose souls are unequivocally Italian, albeit with a fine-dining twist.”

Eager to see Chef Agliano’s philosophy in practice, we made haste to explore our first tasting course – Fassona Beef Carpaccio with Light Mustard, Artichoke and Arugula. Here, the slivers of meat – exceptionally lean beef from the prized Fassona cattle of Italy’s Piedmont region – were surprisingly delicate yet full of flavour. Accompanied by aged parmesan cheese shavings and crunchy artichokes (for added texture), the meatiness of the dish has been deftly enhanced by a beef jelly that takes three days to condense.

Next to arrive was the Mezzi Paccheri with Sicilian Red Shrimp and Basil Pesto Sauce, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Crowned with two jumbo Sicilian red shrimps, this pasta dish is all creamy goodness and umami delight, with its strong oceanic accents somewhat tempered by the refreshing pesto sauce. Within each paccheri (large ring-shaped pasta, served al dente) lay smaller morsels of red shrimp, ensuring that every bite yielded notes of the sea.

Prior to the arrival of the next course – Risotto “Acquerello” with Hokkaido Sea Urchin, Sundried Tomatoes and Black Truffle – we had been told that no less an authority than the late French gastronomic giant Joel Robouchon had deemed Agliano’s risotto to be the best he’d ever tried. That high praise seemed, if anything, inadequate if our experience was anything to go by. Decadently laced with fresh Hokkaido sea urchin and a heaped mound of black truffle shavings, the creamy risotto almost melted in the mouth. In a bid to cut through its richness, the judicious addition of tangy sun-dried tomatoes imparted a delightful tanginess to the proceedings. In short, it was extravagance on a plate.

Then it was on to the secondi – Red Star Grouper in Matalotta Fish Soup with Olive, Capers and Cherry Tomato. It’s a dish particularly close to Agliano’s heart and one said to be an homage to the hearty fish stews of his Sicilian childhood. In deference to local tastes, however, it does come burnished with bamboo-steamed red grouper, long the favoured fish of the city’s discerning diners. Breaking with the convention of using freshly-caught grouper – “Fresh fish are too tense, they need a few days in the fridge for the flesh to relax and become supple,” explains the chef – the soft texture of this three-day-chilled fillet has been enhanced with a quintessential Sicilian fish soup, replete with a tangy combination of capers and cherry tomatoes.

Finally, with scarcely any room left, we rounded off our tasting with some Traditional Tiramisu with Coffee Granita. A decidedly modern take on that most classic of Italian desserts, the cake’s coffee-soaked sponge was replaced with a fresh espresso granita served on the side. It’s an innovative approach and one that grants different nuances to each mouthful, once again showcasing Chef Angelo’s unique ability to blend classic traditions with contemporary techniques, producing dishes with truly mouth-watering – but undeniably Italian – flavours that will continue to charm and captivate the city’s epicureans.

Tosca di Angelo. 102/Fl, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd West, Tsim Sha Tsui. (852) 2263 2270. www.ritzcarlton.com

Harmonious Fusion: East-meets-West dining at Italian restaurant Aria

Defying the Covid-19 adversity and the great odds in a very hostile environment, 54-seater Italian restaurant, Aria, in Lan Kwai Fong boldly opened its doors for business in July, and is now well on its way to carving a prominent niche in Hong Kong’s highly-competitive dining landscape. Led by bubbly 35-year-old Michelin-starred Italian executive chef, Andrea Zamboni, Aria treats diners to a refreshing culinary adventure like no other. Drawing from over 20 years of highly-rated restaurant experience across Italy and Asia, his expertise is very much a product of inspiration and mentoring from the legendary Gualtiero Marchesi, who is widely regarded as the father of modern Italian cuisine and the first chef in the country to receive three Michelin stars, as well as from other virtuoso chefs in different parts of the world.

Conveniently nestled on the 24th floor of Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower, Aria provides a cozy and elegant ambience, conducive to fine dining with close associates or loved ones.

“We take great pride in both our signature dishes, as well as our own creations that we offer week after week, which truly delight our customers as they keep on coming back, looking for more new dishes that they have not seen or tasted before,” says Chef Andrea. Though it is a daunting challenge to constantly come up with fresh culinary treats that will suit the taste of the highly-discriminating palate of Aria’s patrons, he isn’t the least perturbed. After all, he draws from 10 solid years of mentorship from Michelin chefs across Italy plus 11 years of culinary experience in Asia, eight in Shanghai and other cities in China and three in Hong Kong.

“One of our greatest strengths is the depth and breadth of the top-notch fresh ingredients that we procure no more than 24 hours from the source in Italy, other Europe countries and elsewhere in the world,” he says. A case in point are premium winter-time white truffles from Italy which he adroitly employs to enhance and adorn his various culinary wonders.

“We procure fresh, top-notch ingredients from the source in less than 24 hours ”

Keen to sample his culinary creativity, we kicked off our tasting.

The Jerusalem Artichoke Risotto with Hairy Crab and White Truffle marks an auspicious start as it immediately whets your appetite for more exotic culinary offerings. Fusing the iconic and seasonal hairy crab with prominent Western culinary delights, particularly white truffle and Risotto, is most innovative and creative.

“There are no hairy crabs in Western cuisine and I thought this element plus white truffle will be welcomed by diners in the city,” says Chef Andrea of the dish.

Next, the Uovo all’Uovo… Tribute to Chicco Cerea, which features prime-quality caviar and white truffle topping, isn’t just exotic as it serves more as a rare treat that any food connoisseur will certainly savour. It comprises scrambled Livornese hen’s egg from Tuscany at the bottom, poached quail egg, Ikura, Baeri caviar from the Royal Caviar Club and Alba white truffle shavings. A tuille dentelle adds texture to the dish.

Then arrived the Scampi with Foie Gras. Chef Andrea says he owes a lot to his signature dish as it first got him noticed by Michelin in 2010. Using duck foie gras from France that is cooked medium rare, he pairs it with scampi, caramelised pumpkin puree and white truffle shavings.

Stripe Sandwich with Caviar and White Truffle is a curious but sumptuous and harmonious mix of the East and West. Placing a high premium on interacting and gaining fresh culinary insights from his small crew, as well as Aria’s diners, he embraced a Japanese-inspired rendition of a sandwich dish which prominently features succulent prime Australian beef wedged between two slices of fine Italian bread.

When in Shanghai, the most iconic and ubiquitous dish that automatically comes to mind is definitely the must-have Xiao Long Bao. Chef Andrea’s intimate rendition of this archetypal dish comes in the form of Andrea’s Ode to Xiao Long Bao that again marks a harmonious meeting of the East and West.

The next time you fancy Italian food, it’s always best to go for an adventurous, gratifying and fun-filled gastronomic experience, and Aria happens to deftly tick all those boxes in spades.

Aria, 24/F, California Tower, 30-36 D’Aguilar St, Central. (852) 2804 1116. info@ariaitalian.com

Explore the unique pairing of Japanese and Italian cuisine with Chef Tabuchi

We check out the unique culinary craft of Chef Tabuchi of S’accapau, who brings together the best of Japanese and Italian ingredients in a beautiful blend!

Chef Tabuchi taps into his Japanese heritage and Italian experience in his culinary creations

While quite a few Hong Kong restaurants have been offering a fusion of Japanese and French cuisine – some of them even making it to Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 list – fusing Japanese and Italian cuisine has been something of a novelty so far. And that is exactly what Chef Taku Tabuchi has been attempting to do in his Tokyo-based modernist restaurant S’accapau.

Hong Kongers were in luck last weekend with Chef Tabuchi cooking up a cultural storm of sorts at The Mira, Hong Kong, over 8 and 9 June, using his signature techniques that blend the best of his Japanese heritage and his Italian culinary experience.

Chef Tabuchi’s creations are easy on the eye and on the palate

For two nights only, Chef Tabuchi prepared a special six-course menu featuring elements from both Japanese and Italian cuisine, such as yellowtail with fennel and flowers, a trio of sliders, summer flounder with classic Italian sausage, and fregola with flying squid, sea urchin, white shrimp and Asari clams and mussels.

To accompany the delectable dishes was a handpicked selection of wines specially curated by sommelier Seju Yang. The boutique picks included a flinty and refreshing Schloss Johannisberg, Gelblack Feinherb Riesling from Rheingau and a modern Senkin Yamadanishiki hand-made sake. The wine and food pairings were however elevated to the next level by the perfect palate cleansers – the Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino waters.

Sommelier Seju Yang’s drinks pairing menu has its share of uniqueness

The entire menu will be available for tasting WHISK, The Mira till 23 June from Monday to Saturday at dinner. The menu is priced at HK$890 for six courses, and HK$480 more for six glasses of wine pairings.

Booking enquiries: 2315 5999 or dining@themirahotel.com

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Review: Osteria Marzia serves up Italian coastal comforts

Osteria Marzia specialises in fresh seafood — Osteria Marzia’s menu showcases delicious coastal Italian flavours

Certain extremists in the dining community believe that a successful meal begins and ends on the plate. They’re prone – between sighs of exasperation – to say things like, “Interior design? Please, I just want something fresh, authentic and unceremonious!”

For those culinary ascetics, Osteria Marzia – the latest concept from Black Sheep Restaurants – is sure to trigger sensory overload.

Situated on the ground floor of the revitalised Fleming Hotel, the restaurant pays homage to the maritime cultures of the Italian peninsula. Support columns are tiled in a dozen multihued blues while orbs reminiscent of a gondola’s prow arc above the banquette seating.

The staff, outfitted in Breton-striped tops and stark white trousers, appear to have emerged from the fever dreams of Wes Anderson: less Sicilian fisherman, more Steve Zissou. It’s handsome, whimsical and utterly ambiguous, giving little hint of the cuisine to follow.

Thankfully, any identity crisis suffered by the dining room doesn’t extend to the kitchen, where Chef Luca Marinelli prepares rustic and refreshing dishes that pay homage to three regions in southern Italy: Campania, Puglia and Sicily. Marinelli, himself from the northwestern region of Lombardy, is clearly passionate about the country’s coastal traditions, but not enslaved to them.

His first course, a hamachi crudo (raw seafood), reflects this mentality. The popular Japanese jack fish is accompanied by delicately sliced cherry tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil and basil. Marinelli prepares his fish in the style of carpaccio, with its buttery texture offset by the tomatoes and basil. Purists may scoff at this use of old country cooking in service to Japanese fish, but the next dish – a second crudo of red prawns – proves a comforting and familiar sight.

The crustaceans, freshly stripped of their carapaces, are imported from Puglia, accompanied only by a touch of Sorrento lemon. The translucent flesh, alternating between briny and sweet, is rich in adenylate – a common source of umami. These prawns are bound to please Hong Kong’s seafood lovers, especially since the staff at Osteria Marzia encourage patrons to devour the heads and savour the bisque-like flavours found within.

Though light and bright flavours dominate, Marinelli has taken special care to ensure some heavy hitters feature on the menu. The pasta chitarra – so called for the guitar-esque tool used to cut the egg pasta into square-shaped strands – is made daily in-house. It’s tossed with red sauce (reminiscent of fra diavolo) and generous mouthfuls of American lobster.

Both seafood and condiment fuse in a harmony of flavour, with the lobster’s buttery and fleshy qualities never overpowering the dish. However, this has merely been a preview to the main event – selections dalla griglia (from the grill).

Osteria Marzia finds its muse in grilled proteins. The restaurant’s appearance falters in its attempt to approximate a Sicilian getaway, yet that imagery leaps from the plate when the swordfish palermo arrives. The region’s proximity to the Adriatic Sea has lent her many culinary influences, not least of which is the Sicilian affinity for swordfish. Every morsel is rich and flaky – saved from undue unctuousness by a liberal dosage of capers.

Any meal at Osteria Marzia is an event. From the suspiciously photogenic staff to the seemingly endless supply of complimentary limoncello, it is the kind of restaurant that lives and dies by its larger-than-life personality.

For those who are overly serious about food (and food alone), the atmosphere might prove a little too boisterous. That would be a shame, though, because if you can get past the theatre of it all, the core of Osteria Marzia is universal: fresh, rustic, elegantly simple seafood.

Text: Randalph Lai
Photos: Gigi Ip, Osteria Marzia

OSTERIA MARZIA
A: G/F The Fleming, 41 Fleming Road, Wan Chai
T: (852) 3607 2253
W: osteriamarzia.com.hk

Taste Test: Chef Catarsi debuts at Nicholini’s with white truffle tasting menu

There’s a new chef in town, or at least, at Nicholini’s Restaurant. Hailing from the Tuscan town of Livorno, Chef Riccardo Catarsi brings his signature mix of classical flavours and modern culinary techniques to the Conrad Hotel’s Italian outlet.

In a stroke of luck for the city’s foodies, Chef Catarsi’s arrival coincides with the start of Alba white truffle season. It comes as no surprise, then, that his debut seasonal tasting menu spotlights the pungent, earthy delicacy.

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Chef Catarsi has taste buds dancing from the start with his robust Pan-fried Scallops with artichokes, purple potatoes, salmon roe, sea urchin sabayon and white truffles.

Catarsi then steps off the throttle with a subtle Turbot fish course, only to ramp it up again with the visually and flavourfully arresting Tortello with Foie Gras, parmesan cream, veal juice and white truffles.

The main course is a Veal Tenderloin with green asparagus, chestnut cream, potato-and-beetroot mayonnaise and white truffles. There’s some intriguing textural interplay here, but ultimately the dish seems a tad too complex and heavy.

The final dish, though, is a true truffle treat. The Café & Topinabur features an unusual Jerusalem artichoke gelato with coffee biscuits, fresh passion fruit and white truffle shavings. Deceptively delicate, it was the perfect endnote to Chef Catarsi’s creative gastronomic seasonal menu.

The White Truffle Tasting Menu is available at Nicholini’s until mid-December this year. The four-course menu costs HK$1,488, while the six-course option is priced at HK$1,888. A-la-carte specials are also available.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Gigi Ip