Dynamic Ceramic: The high-tech watch material that offers scratch protection and a wearable lightness of being

Ceramic watches can project style and sophistication while possessing strength and endurance. The strong, light, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic ceramic is usually created from powders like zirconium dioxide, zirconium oxide and yttrium that are pressed into shape and fired at extremely high temperatures. Add to this the elegance embodied in the material itself and these timepieces are among the most versatile in the market and are much sought after.

Take Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, which for the first time offers all-ceramic options, with a bracelet made of patented black ceramic and case also hewn from this sturdy material. Two of the iterations bring contrasting colour to the dial in splendid shades of blue or green, a quite beautiful effect magnified in the light by the striking gradient and sunburst finish of the watch face. This is a sublime marriage of the strength of ceramic and the poetic reproduction of the brand’s statement moon-phase complication at six o’clock.

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range – introduced in 1956 by Blancpain as a diver’s watch that could be worn daily – has long been associated with cutting-edge timekeeping. All of the high-tech material is manufactured in Switzerland for environmental reasons, and it offers comfortable durability; the ceramic is an incredible five times harder than stainless steel. Meticulous craftsmanship enhances the line’s aesthetic qualities via its satin finish, as does the workmanship involved in the alignment of the bracelet links.

Omega has long appreciated the fine qualities of ceramic watches, whose lightweight and scratch-resistant properties suit arduous sporting activities while offering an elegance ideal for the chronograph. Just last year, the brand released the Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey model crafted using silicon nitride ceramic for the 45.5mm case, patented Naiad Lock screw-down caseback and bezel ring.

It represented an innovative step in the world of watchmaking, since this compound – two times lighter than zirconium ceramic – had never previously featured to such an extent on an Omega watch. An added benefit aside from its super toughness is its lightness, so it feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Grade 5 titanium used by the aerospace industry dresses the bezel body, sand-blasted dial and folding clasp of the rubber strap, enhancing durability without loading on much additional weight.

A pioneer in black ceramic watches, Hublot has been changing the game over recent years with the introduction of a slew of brightly coloured variants. Models in vibrant red, blue and a striking yellow hue have successively been released. The latest is the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, like the others a coloured transparent ceramic achieved through the incorporation of pigments. To do this, zirconium oxide is heated to 1,700°C for colouration, while intense pressure renders only the colour pigments visible. Complex in-house R&D development has mastered every colour, resulting in a patented ceramic that is durable and scratch-resistant.

This latest Unico Ceramic, like the others, has a uniform hue with a mirror polish over the exterior components, including the dial counters and hands. Limited to 250 pieces and powered by the brand’s flyback chronograph movement, the 42mm-diameter timepiece is blessed with many of the signature features of other Big Bang models, such as a column wheel at six o’clock, bicompax layout, silicon escapement and skeleton architecture.

Roger Dubuis harnesses the material’s advantages by presenting two new black ceramic watches in the Excalibur family. A highly complex manufacturing process was required to ensure that the signature shapes of these timepieces were not compromised – the final grinding of hard material took 10 times longer than usual and demanded extreme craftsmanship. As a res ult, the 45mm case, bezel and crown of the Excalibur Monobalancier Black Ceramic edition are extremely resistant to marks of any kind. Housed within the case of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic is the RD108 calibre and two signature tourbillons rebuilt with lighter materials.

By employing the benefits of both titanium and ceramic, Chopard grabbed collectors’ attention this spring with a new L.U.C Full Strike watch in ceramicised titanium, a material derived from oxidising the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures using electro-plasma technology. Aside from coming in an attractive anthracite colour, the 42.50mm ceramicised titanium case boasts superior hardness and shock-resistance properties, as well as lightness of weight. A verdigris brass dial with a finely frosted centre offers distinctive contrast.

A limited-edition release inspired by the design of stealth aircraft, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic watch by Bell & Ross cuts a discreet avant-garde statement on the wrist. Worn with a rubber strap, the 42mm high-tech ceramic case is characterised by sharp edges, visually creating a 3-D effect and offering water resistance to 50 metres. The Swiss-made BR-CAL.383 automatic movement comes with a 48-hour power reserve. Also measuring 42mm in diameter, the recently released BR 03 Diver Black Matte Ceramic exudes a contemporary sporty appeal. A unidirectional rotating bezel in black ceramic with 60-minute scale circles the standout square case in the same material.

The bezel of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is a gleaming 24-hour graduated monobloc of two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. These special ceramic materials developed exclusively by the brand not only exhibit hues of rare intensity, they also are inert, virtually scratchproof and cannot corrode. Numerals coated with platinum applied via PVD (physical vapour deposition) serve to enhance the visibility of the moulded, recessed graduations.

Panerai embraces the modern marvels of the material in the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic 44mm Ceramic. A Swiss-made P.9010 automatic mechanical movement with a three-day power reserve drives the timepiece, which is crafted from high-tech and exceptionally sturdy ceramic derived from a complex process in its manufacture. It has the signature features of the iconic Lumina range, including crown with protective shield for time adjustments and manual winding.

The peak of sporty endurance, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere CARBO₂ 0 Oxygen Limited Edition watch is distinguished by a black ceramic bi-directional rotating bezel sitting on a titanium case devoid of oxygen. Creating the CARBO₂ case involves an engineering process that ensures extreme resilience at high altitudes with no danger of fogging or oxidisation.

Out of Pocket: Contemporary watches on a chain – or car dashboard – to wear or display with pride

The history of modern watchmaking began with the classic pocket watch so beloved by people of a certain standing in society and releasing them from the constraints of the public clock tower. These timepieces undoubtedly held a particular charm and are now much sought after by collectors. Many top manufactures continue to roll out fine pocket watches for their growing legion of admirers.

Cartier, which first turned its hand to such watches in 1853, now produces the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch. Set in a frame hewed from rock crystal with traces of black obsidian and white gold, it is powered by a 9506 automatic movement comprising 578 parts including 44 rubies in a skeletonised style that allows admirers to view its mechanical sophistication – minute repeater, flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar – and elegant aesthetics.

Coming in two versions, the white-gold model has a beaded crown set with a cabochon-cut sapphire, a colour picked up by blued-steel apple-shaped hands, while the other iteration dazzles with 263 baguette-cut diamonds on its case, 111 baguette- cut diamonds on its dial, and a diamond on the crown for a grand total of 27 carats.

Among IWC’s contemporary pocket watches is a precious homage to its original Pallweber pocket watch released in 1885. The limited-edition Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” timepiece evokes the original pocket watch but comes with large digital hours and minutes displayed in windows.

The instrument, which is attached to an 18-carat red-gold chain, boasts a red-gold case and a white lacquered dial with black-printed white display discs and blued seconds hands. Its convex glass sapphire has an antireflective coating on both sides. Even when the pocket watch is closed, the time can be read thanks to two windows in the spring cover.

Blancpain’s standout pocket watch is the ultra-slim Montre De Poche Demi-Savonnette, a Métiers d’Art creation available in three variants. Classically elegant, its white grand-feu enamel dial is ensconced within a 9 mm-thick red-gold case that measures 44.5 mm in diameter. Resplendent through the sapphire caseback, the 151B manual movement – which is only 2.2 mm thick – has 40 hours of power reserve.

A one-of-a-kind piece of high jewellery and haute horlogerie, The Ultimate Quadri Tourbillon pocket watch by Harry Winston has four independent tourbillons on its dial that rotate counterclockwise in 36 seconds. It is adorned with an 18-carat white-gold chain and 254 baguette- cut diamonds on a matching case, while its calibre HW4703 movement is also blessed with 95 jewels.

In fact, the total gem-setting for this collector’s item amounts to 272 baguette-cut diamonds of about 27 carats as well as an emerald-cut diamond and a brilliant-cut ruby.

Among 12 pocket watches displayed last year as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection at Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon was the “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001, adorned with wood marquetry, hand engraving and champlevé enamel. The image of a leopard emerges from the darkness on its caseback – a wonderful artistic creation derived from different species of wood with varying colours, textures and veining.

The spectacle is complemented by a pattern of tropical foliage inset with black enamel hand-engraved on the border of the caseback, the bezel on the dial side and the bow. The black-tinted tulipwood dial stands in beautiful contrast to a crown embellished with a yellow sapphire.

In homage to its 1932 pocket chronograph, Omega produced three editions (100 pieces each) of the Olympic Pocket Watch 1932 Rattrapante Chronograph utilising unassembled chronograph movement kits that had been in storage for 80 years.

These timepieces come in 18-carat yellow, white and red gold to mimic the colours of the Games’ gold, silver and bronze medals. The original 1932 pocket chronograph was used as a stopwatch in the Los Angeles Olympics that year.

A particularly novel reinterpretation of yesteryear’s timepiece is the Hublot MP-03 Pocket Watch, which takes the traditional hanging pendant- type format but morphs the case into the shape of a bullet. Time is told by a horizontal tourbillon with three rotating wheels visible through the case aperture. The watch can be worn as a necklace or attached to a bag, belt and wrist strap.

Vacheron Constantin has created a bespoke timepiece at the behest of a client who adores fine watches and luxury cars. While boasting aesthetic similarities to a pocket watch, Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon fits into the fascia of a motorcar – the Rolls- Royce Amethyst Droptail to be exact.

Its mechanical self-winding movement has a bi-retrograde display with the instantaneous return of the hours and minutes, reminiscent of the sweep hands on traditional speedometers. These hands are made of titanium, while the case is stainless steel, the main plate brass rhodium opaline, and the dial sapphire crystal.

Panerai’s Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica 59mm was released in a special limited edition of 50 pieces and retains the brand’s water- resistance tradition, plunging securely to a depth of 30 metres. Its chain, likewise, has a nautical appearance. A sapphire case reveals the skeletonised P.2005/S calibre with a six-day power reserve, a version of Panerai’s first in-house tourbillon movement launched in 2007. Interestingly, 12 rods link the case to the movement, giving the impression the latter is suspended in the centre of the device.

Special supports can transform the pocket watch into a table clock once the attached chain is removed – which is detached with ease simply by pressing a small button. The single links of the chain itself are linked by universal joints which guarantee greater resistance and at the same time provide maximum flexibility. The chain is attached to the case by a skeleton device shaped like the characteristic bridge that protects the winding crown of other Panerai timepieces.

Speed against Time- Best Racing watches for living life on fast track

A test of speed against time, the creation of racing watches is truly an exciting feat. Although it rose to prominence in the mid-90s, its inception dates back to 1821 – the invention of the first racing chronograph. Crafted for the passionate horse racer Louis XVIII, its evolution has since been adjusted to serve racers of all types, including car racers.

Racing watches boast features that distinctly stand out from other timekeepers. Notably, the tachymeter scale and high-contrast angled dial that track every split second of the wearer’s journey for the former, while the latter allows wearers to check the sweeping seconds of the watch’s hand without having to take your hands off the wheel.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the most famous racing watch of all time. Named after the Daytona International Speedway in Florida, the timepiece was introduced as a racing chronograph in 1963 and became especially popular after being worn by actor and enthusiastic racing driving Paul Newman, who had his own collection of Cosmograph Daytona models. The tachymetric scale on the bezel provides excellent legibility, making the Daytona the ideal instrument for measuring speeds of up to 400 units per hour, either in kilometres or miles. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and remains on the front line of classic sports chronographs even after almost six decades.


The Omega Speedmaster, on the other hand, was one of the first chronographs to have a tachymeter scale etched onto the bezel instead of the dial on the original 1957 model. It has since shifted to the edge, improving readability. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in particular, though a tribute to Neil Armstrong and mankind’s first steps on the moon, was originally a traditional racing watch with a perforated leather racing strap and a dial featuring a checked racing-style minute track.

Meanwhile, the Mille Miglia by Chopard flaunts a new, sleek, grey-and-blue dial design and exceptional functionality. The 2022 iteration, a limited edition of 1,000 stainless steel pieces and 250 dual-tone versions with 18-carat ethical rose gold, marks its position as the official timekeeper of the annual Brescia to Rome round trip, with the race logo engraved on the caseback that houses its automatic cam-lever-integrated chronograph, built on Valjoux 7750’s architecture.


Lauded for its uncommonly high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has put out an optimised version of the Chronomaster Sport. Building on its revolutionary one-tenth of a second chronograph display, its newest sports edition is replete with a broad, super-legible ceramic bezel, a tri-compax dial in matte black and matte white, and a 60-hour power reserve.

After a successful collaboration with Lamborghini, Roger Dubius is laying strong foundations in the Motorsport industry by joining hands with Formula 1 tyre supplier Pirelli, while sharing a piece of victory with its wearers. The Excalibur Spider Pirelli straps are made with rubber inlays from the Pirelli Formula 1 tyres of actual winning vehicles, also featuring the Cinturato intermediate pattern. Taking as much time as it takes to change a tyre at a F1 pit stop (three seconds), the straps comes off and on just as quickly. Within its titanium casing is a self-winding movement of 28,800 bph and a power reserve of up to 60 hours. However, the model is limited to only 88 pieces per colourway, while the crown and bezel are also interchangeable with the brand’s first ever automatic skeleton.

Reputed for producing automobile-inspired racing watches, Tag Heuer’s Monaco collection is another firm favourite for Formula 1 racecar drivers, though its original 1969 design was the world’s first square-case water-resistant automatic chronograph. Its latest edition, powered by the Heuer 02 calibre movement with a reserve of 80 hours, features the same square-form in a masculine 39mm stainless-steel case.

Another classic timepiece embodying the spirit of a racing cars is Hublot Fusion Ferrari GT, made in collaboration with Ferrari’s head designer Flavio Manzoni. Featuring Hublot’s UNICO HUB1280 flyback openwork movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, its design is a brilliant combination between traditional Swiss watchmaking and cutting-edge technology. Created as a limited 500-piece series, it arrives in Titanium, King Gold and 3D carbon. It’s black rubber strap is made of Schedoni leather which is known to be used in Ferrari’s Maranello GT cars, while its dynamic design boasts an intricate skeleton dial.

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

Bare-faced Chic: Tracking the rise of the irresistible skeleton dial

As any watch enthusiast will only too willingly inform you, the movement of a high-end timepiece represents the very pinnacle of precision engineering, with each one painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate pieces to produce something that is far greater than the sum of its many parts. For much of horological history, however, these mechanical wonders have been secreted away, stashed beneath the dazzling dials designed to ensure that the true engine room is seldom glimpsed by the eyes of the uninitiated.

Rise of skeleton dial watches

Thankfully, the last few decades have gone some way towards remedying this, largely on account of the rise of the temptingly transparent skeleton dial. Here, the emphasis is on leaving the watch’s fascia wholly unadorned and see-through on one or both sides, allowing the inner workings of these high-end chronograms to be easily – and continually – observed. While many of the manifestations of this particular trend are undeniably marvellous, seven of the current crop are particularly memorable…

Skeleton dial watches - Breguet's Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

First up is Breguet, the innovative Swiss marque credited with creating the world’s first tourbillon, which recently unveiled the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. Here, the open-worked fascia acts to emphasise the super-slim 3mm-thick Calibre 581 movement powering its new self-winding tourbillon, one that is said to be 50 percent lighter than any of its predecessors. Housed in a fluted rose gold case, this wonderfully slim watch’s carriage weighs in at just 0.29g.

Skeleton dial watches - Piaget's Emperador Coussin 1270S
Piaget’s Emperador Coussin 1270S

Elegant super-slim design is also the stock in trade of Piaget, as exemplified by the wafer-thin skeletonised lines of its tourbillon-incorporating Emperador Coussin 1270S. Measuring just 5.05mm, its Calibre 1270S movement was custom-built to fit its cushion-shaped white gold case. Here, the skeleton dial reveals the inner workings of its motor and tourbillon, as well as an off-centre four o’clock hour-and-minute subdial.

Skeleton dial watches - Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold
Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold

A more minimalist translucent offering comes courtesy of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Red Gold, which once again sports the brand’s classic black-on-rose-gold motif. Pride of place on its fascia goes to a smaller hour-and-minute subdial at 12 o’clock and a larger small seconds subdial at six o’clock, both of which overlap to form the brand’s iconic figure-eight emblem. Its transparent caseback, meanwhile, facilitates a fascinating view of the double barrels that house its 68-hour power reserve.

Skeleton dial watches - Hublot's Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue
Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue

Eschewing classic contours for a more athletic approach is Hublot, with this affectation made manifest in its recently-unveiled Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue. Released in a limited edition of just 100, this aggressively-styled chronogram is the marque’s first barrel-shaped model to incorporate blue occlusioned carbon fibre. With its spacious appearance belying its intricate construction, its knowing design provides an unhindered view of its debutante HUB6020 movement. The tourbillon proper, all the while, takes place of pride at six o’clock, while a five-day power reserve indicator can be found at eight o’clock.

Skeleton dial watches - Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin
Skeleton X Magma by Ulysse Nardin

Another bold carbon fibre creation is on offer from Ulysse Nardin in the unmistakable form of the Skeleton X Magma. Burnished in an eye-catching lava red, the process of combining carbon fibre with red, marbled epoxy resin is said to make each case quite unique. The skeleton dial here comes punctuated with a rectangle motif – anchored on the left and right by Roman numeral hour markers – through which its UN-371 movement is immediately discernible.

Skeleton dial watches - Zenith’s Defy Inventor
Zenith’s Defy Inventor

Those of an avant-garde disposition, meanwhile, should ensure they get to properly appraise Zenith’s Defy Inventor. Housed in a titanium case that incorporates a bezel fashioned from meteorite-derived Aeronith, the world’s lightest titanium-composite, the pièce de résistance of its open-work design is undoubtedly the Zenith Oscillato. A groundbreaking single silicon component, this comprises an all-in-one balance wheel, balance spring and lever, which is said to grant the movement unprecedented precision and stability. Regrettably, just 10 pieces of this cutting-edge chronogram are destined to ever see the light of day.

Skeleton dial watches - Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom
Dual Time Resonance Sapphire by Armin Strom

Arguably, superiority in the skeleton dial stakes this time around, though, must be accorded to Armin Strom, the independent Swiss maison credited with creating the world’s first-ever such watch. Intriguingly, its latest offering – the Dual Time Resonance Sapphire – features not one but two separate movements, each tethered to a different time zone, as well as the brand’s revolutionary Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects and synchronises the two mechanisms, ensuring chronographic precision is never compromised. Complete with a 24-hour indicator at six o’clock, its outsized all-sapphire-crystal case facilitates 360-degree observation of the outré movement within – a fitting evolution of the skeleton-dial wristwatch the marque pioneered more than 40 years ago.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Auto Winders: Check out these latest high-octane car-watch collaborations

Both cars and watches have long had a special place in the hearts of refined gentlemen of means, and with good reason. The two owe their origins to pressing needs for convenience and precision, with each now treasured as epitomising a true fusion of precision engineering and enduring elegance. Given their shared heritage and matching aspirational feel, car-watch partnerships were all but inevitable. Indeed, many such strategic car-watch brand alliances have proved fruitful and long-lived, while yielding some truly stunning designs…

Latest car-watch timepieces

In celebration of its three-decade collaboration with the Mille Miglia race – a 1,600km-long classic car rally held in Italy each year – Chopard has launched the Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition. Here, the requisite tachymetre bezel and chronograph pushers set the rallying tone, while its generous 44mm fascia allows for easy legibility. The self-winding movement, meanwhile, provides ultra-precise time measurements, which are said to be accurate to an eighth of a second. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, perforated leather straps – reminiscent of the texture of driving gloves – complete a truly vintage look.

Car-watch - Chopard's Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition

An equally grand race-inspired timepiece comes courtesy of Bremont, with its historic partnership with Jaguar, a fellow British brand, having culminated in the launch of the limited-edition Jaguar D-type. A knowing homage to Jaguar’s hugely successful D-type – the car that won the gruelling Le Mans 24 Hours race from 1955 to 1957 – the 300bHp of its original engine is given a knowing nod by the fact that just 300 pieces are to be produced. Set on blue racing calf-leather straps, the 43mm blue-dialled bi-compax timepiece features a tachymetre scale, an effective contrast with its brushed nickel sub-dials. Sporty yet sophisticated, its racing pedigree is more than apparent at even the most cursory of glances.

Car-watch - Bremont's Jaguar D-type
Bremont’s Jaguar D-type

Taking a similarly heritage-centric approach is Breitling’s Bentley-channelling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition. Designed to celebrate the motoring marque’s 100th anniversary, the left side of the case bears the same Bentley engraving that graced the dashboard of the iconic 1929 Bentley Blower. With both the stainless steel and rose gold models featuring a white printed tachymetre scale on a unique brown elm burl dial, its classic appeal is undoubtable.

Car-watch - Breitling's Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition
Breitling’s Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition

A more contemporary approach, meanwhile, comes in the memorable form of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, the latest timepiece on offer from Hublot and Ferrari, the self-styled supercar marque. In place of the former’s traditionally angular designs, this flyback chronograph is the very epitome of aerodynamic curvature. Available in titanium, King Gold or 3D Carbon, the watch’s beautifully open-worked fascia proudly displays Ferrari’s famed prancing horse at 12 o’clock, while also highlighting its recessed Calibre UNICO HUB1280 movement. Hybrid black rubber-Schedoni leather straps and a convex case design round out its automotive appeal.

Car-watch - Hublot's Classic Fusion Ferrari GT
Hublot’s Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

In an unusual move, TAG Heuer and Aston Martin have taken the symbiotic nature of car-watch partnerships to a whole new level, with the former’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019 timepiece and the latter’s DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition on offer as one all-inclusive car-watch package. More specifically, the purchase of any of the new sportscars – available in a limited edition of just 50 – will see the lucky owner also walk away with TAG’s latest chronogram. Obviously inspired by the car it namechecks, the marque’s all-new design includes several unambiguously DBS accents, notably its grille-motif hexagonal cut-out fascia and embossed leather straps, while a hint of red detailing adorns its otherwise all-black finish.

Car-watch - TAG Heuer's Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019

Revving proceedings up several gears, avant-garde watchmaker Roger Dubuis has teamed with Lamborghini and tyre brand Pirelli to create its undeniably eclectic Excalibur One-off. Blending the expertise of the three partners in their individual areas of excellence – haute horology, adrenaline-driven performance and precision engineering – this truly superlative chronogram perfectly balances aggressive athleticism with aesthetic appeal. Its delightfully open-worked fascia, meanwhile, reveals its purpose-built RD 106SQ movement, as well as its double flying tourbillon and a jumping hours display at 12 o’clock – all structured to resemble the engine of the Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar that provided the original inspiration.

Car-watch - Roger Dubuis' Excalibur One-off
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur One-off

The most recent members of the car-watch collaborators club – renowned Swiss haute horology house Jacob & Co. and legendary hypercar company Bugatti – though, may just prove to be the most outré. The first fruit of this partnership – the Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition – is nothing short of overwhelming, in terms of both size and complexity. It comes with a decimal repeater as standard, as well as a racing-themed “fuel” power reserve indicator and stunningly intricate dual triple-axis sequential high-speed tourbillons. With each individual watch carrying a price tag of US$500,000, the exclusivity of this 39-piece release is heightened yet more by the fact that it is only purchasable by Bugatti owners.

Car-watch - Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co.
Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Wholly watchable: Four brilliant watches this season

Any haute horology enthusiast looking to expand their collection should perhaps give Swiss watchmaker Breitling’s latest wrist candy, the Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Boutique Edition, a once-over. The first design to spawn from its partnership with online men’s style portal MR PORTER, this eye-catching timepiece boasts a sleek silver fascia ringed by an anthracite contrast chronograph. Fitted with an in-house calibre B01 movement, it’s limited to only 1,000 pieces, making this an almost instant collector’s item. www.breitling.com

Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Limited Edition

Swiss watchmaker Hublot celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival with four brightly coloured watches poetically called the Spirit of Big Bang collection. The open real estate of the watches reveal the HUB1770 hand-wound skeleton movement, charmingly enhanced by a quartz dial. The entire lunar cycle has been captured within the surface of these timepieces, thanks to two alternating moons visible through a semi-transparent, sand-blasted disc. A small seconds sub-dial sits pretty at 9 o’clock, with a large date display on a double analogue disc perfectly positioned between 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock accentuating its impression of depth and astronomy. www.hublot.com

Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase King – in pink

Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has added another stellar watch to its Fiftysix collection – the Fiftysix Tourbillon. Just 6mm thick and equipped with a 22- carat gold peripheral rotor, the movement is entirely visible thanks to a transparent caseback. According to the makers, apparently the tourbillon alone demanded more than 12 hours of meticulous work, thanks to its minute hand-crafted detailing. Each element of its distinctive design is a knowing nod to the original iconic Fiftysix model created in 1956. www.vacheron-constantin.com

Fiftysix Tourbillon

French haute jewellery house Chaumet‘s latest offering to haute horology comes in the form of three eye-catching models of jumping hours Complications Créatives watches designed by Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua. Set in white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, each of the watches evokes a lush picture of Africa. With giraffes, crocodiles, frogs, etc adorning the surface of the watches – each handcrafted and hand-engraved – the miniature real estate of the timepieces transforms us to a primitive world. www.chaumet.com

Tresors dAfrique – Éspiegleries – in blue

Nautical Timepieces: Marine-inspired watches for the seafaring collectors

Any contemporary haute horology enthusiast setting off for a spot of seafaring adventure is pretty much spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting the right watch to accompany them on their voyages. Indeed, whether you are looking for a current favourite, something a bit more new wave or a watch with hidden depths from established marques, you won’t be disappointed by these newest nautical timepieces.

New nautical timepieces to keep your eye on

With its long and storied history of producing first-class sailing watches, it is only sensible to make Rolex your first port of call. In particular, it is worth seeking out one of the venerable watchmaker’s more recent additions to its nautical range – the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II

From the outset, there’s no mistaking its bold maritime allegiance, grandly fore-fronted in both its ocean-blue Activated Ring Command bezel and its aquamarine small seconds dial. It even boasts the marque’s first-ever programmable countdown (complete with a mechanical memory), which neatly rings the small seconds dial.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo Edition
Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo Edition

Another standout amongst today’s nautical timepieces is Zenith’s all-new Defy El Primero 21 Porto Cervo. Taking its name from the beautiful North Sardinian luxury resort, this is a watch redolent with azure, translucent oceanic glory. Housed in a 44mm titanium case, it comes with a translucent white skeletonised dial and a fetching blue and white power reserve indicator. Released in a limited edition of just 25, if you don’t dive straight in, it will almost certainly be too late.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”

Omega has embraced its inner seafarer, bestowing a distinctly rugged and ready look on its new Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black “Volvo Ocean Race”, a celebratory model marking its longstanding role as official timekeeper to the Volvo Ocean Race. Specially constructed to withstand extreme ocean conditions, it boasts stark black straps, a ceramic casebody and an arresting red rubber / Liquidmetal bezel. Black ceramic dials also highlight each watch’s unique limited edition number – as if their look wasn’t exclusive enough.

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol-d'Or Mirabaud 2018
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018

Another sporty timepiece suitable for the most macho of mariners is Hublot’s Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud 2018. Eschewing traditional gold or steel on its designer dial, the watchmaker has opted instead for a startling black carbon fibre fascia, ably counterpointed by an innovative blue rubber-carbon fibre strap design. An apt celebration of the 80th edition of the Lake Geneva-based Bol d’Or Mirabaud – the world’s largest inland lake regatta – the watch is available in a limited edition of just 80.

Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady Automatic Calibre 9
Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady Automatic Calibre 9

More marine-minded mademoiselles, meanwhile, may be tempted by TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer Lady. While the marque’s DNA is more than apparent in the watch’s 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel and stainless-steel straps, a touch of novelty is evident in its white SuperLuminova-coated hands and hour markers, an embellishment that sees them glow whenever submerged.

Ulysse Nardin Freak Out of the Blue
Ulysse Nardin Freak Out of the Blue

Ulysse Nardin – a brand long-known to favour the more outré approach to haute horology – may tempt avant garde explorers with its aptly-named Freak Out of the Blue. Dispensing with the traditional crown in favour of a more svelte, open-worked fascia, anchor-shaped hands and an eye-catching ‘flying carousel’ tourbillon complete its look. Lest its coastline-eschewing credential be in any doubt, it even comes with sailcloth straps as standard.

Corum Admiral 45 Squelette
Corum Admiral 45 Squelette

Clearly not willing to leave the singular approach to nautical timepieces entirely to Ulysses Nardin, Corum’s marine-themed Admiral 45 Squelette embraces the naked, no-dial look in the marque’s own unique style. The latest addition to the Admiral collection, a range with a half-century heritage, the turquoise, yellow or red hues that accent the varied versions of this latest model bestow upon it a distinctly playful ambience.

With the movements of time and tide inextricably bound together in the human psyche, there’s an almost primordial joy to be had in the very finest examples of haute horology that so beguilingly marry the two. Fortunately, few of the world’s finest watchmakers are immune to the allure of such a union, ensuring that precision nautical timepieces are wholly unlikely to ever sink without trace.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Car-Watch Collaborations: The latest chapter of horology’s hottest trend

The collision between two of mankind’s greatest passions – motoring and watches – was a surprise to almost no one. After all, both were dedicated to pushing boundaries, setting records, and, most importantly, inciting that incurable burst of adrenaline in their enthusiasts. In recent times, though, the pace of new car-watch collaborations hitting the market has revved up significantly.

This hot horology trend has yielded some true standouts. Take, for example, Bulgari’s casual yet sporty Octo Retro Maserati GranSport, which is perfect for everyday wear. (Check out our extended review of this watch here.)

Bulgari's Octo Retro Maserati GranSport
Bulgari’s Octo Retro Maserati GranSport

On the more extreme end of the spectrum is the Excalibur Aventador S from Roger Dubuis. Modeled on the engine of a Lamborghini Aventador, it was crafted from the self-same carbon fibre favoured by the Italian supercar maker – a relatively new material in the world of haute horlogerie. It’s the perfect example of how car-watch collaborations have spawned innovative new techniques.

Lamborghini and Roger Dubuis' Excalibur-Aventador S
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur-Aventador S in partnership with Lamborghini

Equally grandiose avant garde is Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph. This particular timepiece was created in celebration of Ferrari’s 70th anniversary. With just 70 pieces made, it’s a true collectors’ piece.

Hublot's Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph
Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph

This brings us to the newest kids on the car-inspired watch block: Tag Heuer’s Formula 1 Aston Martin and Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin. Launched last week at the International Geneva Motor Show, these models were unveiled after an announcement that Tag Heuer was now the Official Partner, Official Timekeeper and Team Performance Partner for the Aston Martin Red Bull Racing team.

Tag Heuer's Formula 1 Aston Martin and Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin
Tag Heuer’s Formula 1 Aston Martin and Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin

At the event, Britain’s much-loved motoring company also revealed a brand new Vantage GTE boasting Tag Heuer’s signature colours. The car is set to compete in the upcoming 24 Hours of Le Mans race in June.

The Tag Heuer-Aston Martin relationship is just the latest in a series of car-watch collaborations, but if their new timepieces are anything to go by, it may just be one of the most fruitful.

Binge Watch: Seven standouts from Macau’s Masters of Time exhibition

Exploring the 450 watches of Masters of Time

Duty-free retailer DFS opened its ninth Masters of Time luxury watch exhibition in Macau in extravagant fashion. There were interactive pop-ups, whisky and caviar tastings, and live performances by Hong Kong songstress Jade Kwan and violin DJ Olivia Dawn.

But even without the flash and panache, it’s clear that DFS has its ear to the ground, following the latest haute horlogerie trends in a bid to give high-end watch collectors exactly what they’re looking for.

Over 450 pieces from 30 luxury brands were assembled for this year’s showcase, which runs until 28 February at T Galleria by DFS inside the Shoppes at Four Seasons.

Unique timepieces on show at Masters of Time

Christophe Chaix, Senior Vice President of Global Merchandising at DFS, says there is no real equivalent to Masters of Time. “Of course there are trade shows like Baselworld and SIHH, but there is no other exhibition like this in the world dedicated to the end consumer,” Chaix says.

His confidence is not misplaced. In just nine years, the annual exhibition has become one of Asia’s premier watch events, drawing collectors from China, Singapore, Australia and beyond.

In that time, discerning women collectors have become one of the industry’s fastest-growing segments. No longer satisfied with simple watches in frilly decorative packaging, the fairer sex is now demanding mechanical complications on par with their male counterparts. And Masters of Time has risen to the challenge.

4. Jacquet Droz Lady 8

One of the best models from its selection of women’s watches is Jaquet Droz’s Lady 8 Flower, a perfect blend of beauty and complexity. Fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, the design’s centrepiece is a lotus perched atop a blue sapphire-studded bezel. A press of the button opens its petals to reveal a faceted diamond briolette rotating on its axis.

Another women’s watch that may appeal to collectors is Breguet’s individually numbered and signed Tradition 7038, the first model for ladies in its Tradition collection. Although slightly on the large side at 37mm, it owes its unmistakable femininity to a diamond-set bezel, mother-of- pearl dial and white alligator leather strap.

5. Breguet's Tradition Dame 7038

While complex timepieces for ladies are still relatively rare, Masters of Time is a horological treasure trove for the discerning male collector.

Classic craftsmanship never goes out of style, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing to its strengths with the Master Gyrotourbillon 1. Boasting a dual-axis tourbillon movement, this elegant timepiece also shows the date and includes a perpetual calendar and an equation of time complication. The dial’s intricate mother-of-pearl lacework and aventurine stone marquetry evoke images of a clear night sky.

Heritage watches also feature prominently at Masters of Time this year, such as Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. Paying tribute to the brand’s nautical history, the handcrafted marquetry on its pine oak dial imitates a ship’s deck, while the arching minute hand resembles a ship’s boom. Add to that a visible flying tourbillon and this 18-piece model is a guaranteed conversation starter.

6. Ulysse Nardin's Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon

Another homage timepiece is Blancpain’s limited-edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The original Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 as the world’s first automatic diving watch, and fortunately, the current model retains that vintage vibe while still meeting modern divers’ needs with its uni-rotational bezel and water tightness indicator.

As far as contemporary timepieces go, sports watches are all the rage. In particular, partnerships between luxury car manufacturers and horology houses have spawned some interesting timepieces. Several are on show at Masters of Time, including Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Aventador S (featured in Gafencu’s November issue) and Hublot’s Techframe Ferrari 70 Years King Gold Tourbillon Chronograph.

8 Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45MM

The true feather in DFS’ cap, though, is the special edition Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Automatic Chronograph 45mm from Tag Heuer. This one-of-a-kind timepiece was created especially for Masters of Time, with its hands, hour markers and strap all outfitted in the luxury retailer’s signature red.

Sadly, this watch is no longer on the market, having been snapped up by an eager collector before the exhibition even began.

With so many watches on display, it’s hard to characterise Masters of Time in a singular way. Suffice it to say, a trip to the exhibition is an illuminating lesson in the sheer diversity that exists in the world of modern watchmaking.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: DFS