Clarence: Reviewing the new modern French fine dining, because dinner is back on!

Chef Olivier Elzer has already made waves with L’Envol, his two-Michelin-starred establishment at The St Regis Hong Kong. Now, he embarks on a new culinary journey with Clarence, a more casual French-dining concept located on the 25th floor of Central’s H Code. While the former embraces the strictest tenets of fine dining, his latest outing – which is helmed by his protégé, Chef Simon So – offers innovative takes on French classics tempered by Asian techniques and traditions.

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Also Read: Japanese-Italian on your mind? Read our review of Pazzi Isshokenmai

This amalgamation is no accident. “With Envol, I know my guests come to sample true French fine dining, so the scope I have to experiment is rather limited. So, with Clarence, I wanted to really explore and create my own culinary concept – one that’s been informed by my own experiences across the world, and particularly in Asia,” explains Elzer.

The award-winning chef, whose impressive 27-year CV includes tenuring with famed chef Joël Robuchon and a collection of 23 Michelin stars, has lived in the Far East for the past 13 years.

gafencu taste french fine dining Clerance chef olivier elzer

Hence, the Clarence menu is punctuated with a sashimi-inspired raw bar, as well as such techniques as teppan (iron plate) grilling, steaming and charcoal smoking. Perhaps the most inventive of the listings are ‘Yakifrenchy’ dishes that utilise the Japanese robata grill to cook and flavour traditional French fare like frog legs and escargot. Chef Elzer’s diverse vision also encompasses the layout of the restaurant, which comprises three disparate areas – the wine cellar, the casual dining room and the bar.

 

Also Read: Caviar etiquette done right

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Eager to begin our own tasting, we start with a cold appetiser of Black Prawns / Tonka Bean / Lemon Peel. Beautifully plated on a bed of ice, the crustaceans are accentuated by tart sprinkles of lemon zest, while hints of vanilla emerge through the legume shavings. Creamy and crunchy in equal measure, this delicate portion serves as the perfect opening act.

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Next, we sample an array of skewers from the Yakifrenchy section of the menu. Ratatouille / Pesto sees such vegetables as courgettes and bell peppers grilled then basted in a rich pesto cream. A second vegetable skewer of Eggplant / Escabeche has generous slices of aubergine marinated in assorted spices then topped with beautifully caramelised onions. Juicy and sweet, this is one dish whose diminutive proportions belie its filling nature. The next two en brochettes are reinterpretations of French standards and perhaps our favourites of the selection on hand – the umami-laden Burgundy Snails / Garlic Parsley and the super succulent Frog Legs / Pastis / Tomato.

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Then, twin portions of Cooked Octopus / Uni Foam / Fresh Tomato / Lime hove into view. Constructed much like a savoury trifle, each layer of this dish reveals new ingredients and flavours. A sliver of tender cooked octopus rests atop a rich sea-urchin foam that heightens the dish’s oceanic accents. Underneath it all lies a bed of cubed tomatoes tossed in lime and more mollusc slices. The result is an ever-evolving creation where each mouthful yields different dynamics and nuances.

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Rounding out our visit to Clarence is a main course of Skate Wing / Teppan / Brown Butter / Spices. “This was inspired by an old French classic where the fish is paired with a burnt butter sauce, but it often overwhelmed the palate, so it’s dwindled in popularity,” says Elzer. “My vision with this dish is to use the oft-overlooked French skate wing and then to soften the effect of the butter, while infusing it with an array of spices to temper and complement the inherent tastiness of the fish.”

Grilled over a teppan and coated with spices, the delicate flesh of the skate wing can be paired, in turn, with roasted lemon or the decadent brown-butter sauce. Displaying the creative chef’s East-meets-West inspirations to their most satisfying effect, it’s a fantastic course for sharing with loved ones and a great example of sea-to-table dining.

Clarence. 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 3568 1397. clerancehk.com

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

Also Read: Support your neighbourhood restaurants – popular takeaway menus right now

Yung Kee: A new look at the iconic Cantonese eatery

In a city where restaurants rise and fall according to the admittedly fickle tastes of its discerning diners, Yung Kee is a singular success story. Indeed, the Cantonese eatery is something of an institution, having recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. Despite being internationally renowned today, its roots, however, are humble to the extreme.

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Newly renovated dining room at Yung Kee

Having begun as a dai pai dong in 1936, Yung Kee moved to a sturdier location in Wing Lok Street in 1942. Two years later, though, during Hong Kong’s occupation by the Japanese, the site was razed by US bombers and had to be rebuilt. Two decades on, Yung Kee finally found its forever home on Wellington Street, and to mark its landmark 80th year, the restaurant underwent significant renovations.

Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining
Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner of Yung Kee

“With the new refurbishment, we’ve ensured that each floor provides a different type of atmosphere to suit diners’ different needs,” says third-generation owner Yvonne Kam. “The ground floor is more for light dining, while the first floor has a ’50s / ’60s teahouse vibe. At the top is our formal dining area, replete with a stunning Dragon Phoenix Hall. We’ve even interspersed various pieces of memorabilia and artworks from Yung Kee’s past, so it’s almost like eating within a majestic living-history museum – one that has evolved alongside the city’s rapid culinary development.”

Multiple nods to the restaurant’s legacy are indeed to be found, from the painstakingly restored handcrafted Italian tiles that were fitted on the first floor in 1964 and the original signage that now graces the contemporary bar area, to the beautifully maintained gold-plated, traditional dragon and phoenix statues and custom-made art punctuating the second-floor grand hall.

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Yung Kee steamed shrimp and scallop dumpling

Amid this august environment, we kick off our own tasting with a duo of signature dim-sum dishes – Steamed Shrimp and Scallop Dumpling and Supreme Soup Pork Dumpling. The former encompasses delightfully delicate oceanic flavours, while the latter features a single oversized dumpling brimming with soup and a soft pork stuffing.

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Yung Kee Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet

Next to arrive is Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet, an updated combination of two disparate dishes. Here, the plump bird’s legs have been deboned then sewn up, so not one iota of flavour or moisture can escape. Roasted to perfection, each mouthful combines succulent meat with crispy skin. The fillets, meanwhile, are beautifully tender, with the accompanying asparagus slivers and lily bulb petals adding a welcome textural element.

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Yung Kee Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail

Another new addition to the menu then hoves into view – Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail. An elevated interpretation of a dim-sum favourite (shrimp toast), this particular iteration sees the base layer of bread covered with a decadent lobster tail, which is then sprinkled with sakura shrimp for a dash of added texture. Crunchy yet subtly flavoured, this is a guaranteed hit for any shellfish aficionado.

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Yung Kee Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose

Rounding out our delicious tasting is a return to that Yung Kee classic – Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose. “The secret behind our iconic roast goose is our Chinese charcoal grill,” explains Kam. “We have the last remaining one in the CBD area, as the government no longer issues new licences for them. By slow-roasting the goose in it, the meat retains a succulent flavour while simultaneously being given a uniquely fragrant smokiness.”

That’s not all, though. The bird in question is no ordinary goose. It’s a purebred black-maned Chinese goose, carefully chosen for its juicy flesh, which is then bathed in a secret marinade that locks in extra flavour. The result is an explosion of fat, meat and saltiness with every bite – a powerfully addictive combination that keeps you coming back for more. Small wonder, then, that this dish, more than any other at Yung Kee, has kept eager epicureans in thrall across the decades.

Yung Kee. 32-40 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2522 1624. yungkee.com.hk

 

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai

Fusion is a term that has been bandied about in culinary circles for a long time and remains as divisive as its definition is broad. Some deem the entire category as gimmicky and unimaginative, focusing more on style than substance. For its proponents, however, it is a creative reimagining of beloved cuisines that blend two disparate traditions into a synergistic whole.

It is exactly with this spirit in mind that Pazzi Isshokenmei opened its doors in Central’s new lifestyle hub H Queen’s. In particular, the expansive 6,000-square-foot eatery deftly blends Italian ingredients and techniques with the flavours of traditional Japanese izakaya. Even the name reflects its dual roots, with ‘pazzi’ meaning ‘crazy’ in Italian, and ‘Isshokenmei’ being the culturally significant Japanese term for ‘doing something difficult with all one’s might’.

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The brainchild of Philip Chow – a 20-year veteran of Hong Kong’s bustling F&B scene – this bold new restaurant is, as its promotional materials aptly claim, “a marriage between boundary-pushing creativity and laser-like precision that manifests in exquisite flavour pairings and fastidious plating”.

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Our lunchtime tasting began with a visually stunning plate of Pink Prawn Tartare. Laced with edible flowers and healthy dollops of caviar, the tartare proper features fresh pink prawns tossed in yoghurt to enhance its inherent creaminess. Imparting elements of tartness are slivers of green apple and refreshing Japanese cucumber, with the base sauce of ponzu and shiso leaf oil adding a welcome tanginess to the proceedings.

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Though small in size, the second appetiser – Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian starter of veal and sardines – was equally pleasing to the eye. Here, super slim medallions of veal are topped with chunks of tuna and a light mayonnaise, with the accompanying crouton cubes and cucumber slices bequeathing each mouthful with a delightful crunch.

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Then the first main of Lobster Spaghetti hoves into view. The freshly made pasta is tossed in a delicious lobster sauce – made all the richer by a long, slow-cooking process – though the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the succulent cooked lobster that tops the dish. Packed with oceanic accents, this is a surefire hit for any fan of this beloved shellfish.

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Next to arrive was another seafood pasta course – Crab Tagliolini. In a nod to the restaurant’s East-meets-West inspiration, the prime Japanese pairing of crab and miso is given an Italian spin here. Thin strands of tagliolini – made fresh daily – are laden with generous helpings of shredded crab meat, while caramelised onions and miso-rich gravy elevate the dish further by adding an umami-packed punch to each mouthful.

fusion_Japanese-Italian flavours come together at Pazzi Isshokenmai_philip_chow_central_dining-hongkong-gafencu_Miso Crab Tagliolini

Our final course looked beyond the bounds of Italian and Japanese culinary traditions to that of France. Duck Confit is fronted by two perfectly-cooked ‘steaks’ of duck; the meaty morsels are melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the crispy skin bestows a delectable edgy bite. Accompaniments of potato stacks and beetroot salad further enhance this truly soul-satisfying dish.

From start to finish, every plate in our tasting menu was a symphony of stunning flavours and arresting visual appeal. By taking the best of Japanese and Italian culinary traditions, Pazzi creates something far greater than the sum of its parts, tantalising taste buds and eyes in equal measure. In the end, this is truly fusion cuisine at its finest.

 

Pazzi Isshokenmei. (852) 2555 0666. 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central. 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Chueca makes Spanish tapas more inventive

To say that Hong Kong has a saturated dining scene would be something of an understatement, so for a restaurant to set itself apart from the crowd is a major challenge indeed. Chueca, a newly opened modern Spanish tapas restaurant tucked at one end of Gough Street in Central, does just that.

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Ably helmed by Chef Jordi Vallés, a Spaniard whose impressive CV includes stints as Executive Chef with the Aqua and Pirata dining groups, Chueca offers a deft blend of casually chic ambiance and authentic, flavour-packed dishes that have found favour among even the most discerning of the city’s eager epicureans. “We don’t claim we are a fine-dining establishment,” says Vallés of this winning formula. “Yet, every one of our dishes is a high-quality offering that takes the rustic flavours of Spain and gives it a refined touch. We source many of our ingredients directly from there to ensure our cuisine is truly authentic.”

“In spite of the richness of the ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a melt-in-your-mouth lightness”

Named after a bustling district of central Madrid, Chueca has a verandah-like frontage set with a long marble countertop for an al-fresco dining experience. The airiness is also reflected in the interiors, which boast wood and brass accents with a splash of aquamarine for good measure. The overall effect is refreshingly well balanced, providing a welcoming atmosphere from the outset.

Eager to begin our own tasting, we dove right into an appetiser of Gambas Al Ajillo. A quintessential Spanish dish, the fresh tiger prawns were deep fried in delicious garlic-laden olive oil, with a sprinkling of chilli imparting a slight piquancy. Indulgent without being overwhelmingly greasy, it was a worthy opening act.

Next to arrive was Chef’s Canelón, one of Chueca’s signatures. For the uninitiated, a canelón is a pasta roll stuffed with a variety of ingredients that is typically eaten during the festive season. In this instance, though, the traditional recipe has been upscaled to feature a smooth truffle-and-meat stuffing, surrounded by generous shavings of black truffle. Rounding it off is a delectable porcini béchamel sauce that adds a creaminess to proceedings. In spite of the richness of the disparate ingredients, Chef Vallés’ adroit touch ensures a cohesive melt-in-your-mouth lightness.

The cook then offered a sneak peek at the eatery’s upcoming Christmas menu with an appetiser of Foie Gras Royale. Although a deceptively small portion upon first viewing, its size has been specifically chosen to balance the decadence within; atop each thin sliver of bread, hidden beneath shavings of black truffle, is a rich foie gras concoction that will more than satiate any hunger pangs.

Next to arrive was perhaps Chueca’s most popular main, a sharing platter of Lobster Rice. A true labour of love, the crustaceans are delivered fresh each day and the heads simmered for hours to create a delectable broth, which is then used to cook the rice, onions, tomatoes and tiny morsels of squid. The finishing touch is a perfectly cooked whole lobster. Awash in oceanic accents without ever once overwhelming the senses, the shellfish’s flavours permeate throughout. It’s a guaranteed favourite of any seafood-loving gourmand, and perfect for enjoying with loved ones.

Finally, with our waistlines getting uncomfortably tight, a dessert of Flan de Nata – a Spanish take on crème caramel – hovered into view. Sweet without being cloying, the flan is a creamy, custardy plate of mouth-watering goodness, with the accompanying medley of diced fruits injecting a welcome tartness and an extra textural element to the dessert. Simple yet delectably delicious, it was the perfect note to end our flavour-packed tasting.

 

Chueca. G/F, 8-10 Gough Street, Central. (852) 2703 0810. www.chueca.hk

 

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Top restaurants for Christmas dinner in Hong Kong

Season’s feasting!

Holiday season is officially here which means it’s time for over-the-top parties, Christmas decors, checking out the festive displays and chalet’s around town, taking part in a bevvy of December activities. With so much to do and so much to celebrate around Hong Kong, if  planning a Christmas spread sounds like a daunting affair (we get you!) then book a table at one of the city’s incredible restaurants for an upscale extravaganza. 

Most of our picks below evoke Yuletide nostalgia – atmospheric, cozy with lots of holly and poinsettias… Christmas cheer, here we come…

Bostonian Seafood & Grill
The Langham, Tsim Sha Tsui

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(Photo courtesy: Langham Hotel)

Seafood lovers are spoiled for choice at Langham’s Bostonian Seafood & Grill this holiday season. Crustacean lovers can enjoy an indulgent premium seafood dining experience (HK$1,388 per person), starting off with a sumptuous sample of signature Lobster Bisque, Scallops, Oysters and Pan-fried Foie Gras, before moving on the main event: the Roasted Turkey or Char-grilled U.S Tenderloin Steak. For dessert, a selection of sweetened baked goods and desserts delight patrons with a truly festive Christmas eve dinner with loved ones. 

For more information: langhamhotels.com

The Tai Pan
The Murray, Central

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(Photo courtesy: The Muray)

For a traditional Christmas turkey dinner, The Tai Pan at The Murray serves up a decadent four-course Christmas eve dinner (HK$1,088) alongside deliciously seasonal and organic ingredients that elevate each dish with a kick. From the Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Sake glazed pineapple, crispy rice and micro leaves to a chestnut-sage stuffed Turkey or the umami-packed Sake-Marinated Cod Fish, and a Wine Pear with Chocolate ginger bread gateau for a strong festive finish, its Christmas eve spread is sure to leave diners satisfied with a lasting impression on their palate. The vibe is relaxed, the food, service and ambiance are all truly outstanding – one that is sure to make the festive experience ‘tai pan’, literally meaning ‘top class’.

For more information: niccolohotels.com

LPM Restaurant & Bar
Stanley Street, Central

(Photo courtesy: LPM Restaurant & Bar)

Taking up the prime spot on the busy Stanley Street, the 104-seater French Riviera inspired-menu at the elegant yet timeless, LPM Restaurant & Bar, short for La Petite Maison, will dazzle your Christmas one flavourful serving at a time. Launching a Christmas and a New Year’s menu, the highlight here is the ingredient-driven meals best enjoyed in a bright and cheerful by day, sultry and atmospheric by night ambiance. With locations in London, Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Hong Kong, a star feature here is the exact menu and same taste in all the signature dishes across the globe. Festive specials include Celeriac, Pears and Capers Remoulade Salad (HK$148); Burrata a la Truffle Blanche (HK$1,198); Rigatoni Maison a la Truffle Blanche (HK$1,198); and Grilled “Black Onyx” Sirloin Steak with mini Grillé mushrooms (HK$598).

The chefs are experts at what they do – the meal here has the drama, tenderness, buttery sweetness which a Christmas feast deserves – the mains are dazzling but will be outdone by the desserts and cocktails. The wine list is exquisite as its expansive, trust the well-read sommeliers to match one with each course and it will be rude to call it a night before tucking into the decadent divineness of their French toast. Blame us not if the meal leaves you craving for a sun-soaked French holiday!

For more information: LPM Restaurant & Bar

Giacomo
Crowne Plaza, Causeway Bay

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(Photo courtesy: Crowne Plaza Hotel)

The new Causeway Bay-set Giacomo offers the city’s eager epicureans with an Italian Christmas fare a 6-course Christmas Eve Degustation Menu (HK$2,480 per person). Its southern Italian flavours are even further highlighted in its signature Homemade Tagliolini with Piedmont Alba white truffle. For mains, the menu features a melt-in-your-mouth Mayura Beef Tenderloin from Australian chocolate-fed Wagyu, served with braised celery root and winter black truffle. To complete the experience, a fine wine pairing (HK$980) is highly recommended. 

For more information: cphongkong.com

Also Read: Christmas Weight Gain: Enjoy the food without the guilt!

Landmark Mandarin Oriental
The Landmark, Central

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(Photo courtesy: Landmark Mandarin Oriental)

Delighting true epicureans to a more modern take on the classic turkey and mash Christmas offerings, two-Michelin-starred contemporary French restaurant Amber serves up a succulent 8-course dinner menu (HK$2,498) that includes a decadent offering of meticulously prepared and deliciously created dishes that shine a clear light on why this sought after restaurant hits top spots in many Hong Kong gourmands’ list. Featuring an ensemble of flavours in dishes such as  Bone Marrow with sweet peas, shallots and black winter truffles ensemble of flavours, alongside the use of aka amadai with celeriac, wakame, dulse and yuzu for a true act of balancing flavours. 

For more information: mandarinoriental.com

Buenos Aires Club
LKF Tower, Central

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(Photo courtesy: Buenos Aries Club)

Meat-lovers rejoice to an authentic Argentinian Christmas feast at the lavish Buenos Aries Club. Offering a family-style Christmas spread, its Festín de Navidad sharing menu (HK$898 per person) starts its flight of mouth-watering entradas, while holding nothing back on the mains, featuring an 18oz chateaubriand General Pico Black Angus Prime Rib, served alongside a varied selection of classic side dishes such as mashed  potatoes, creamed corn, provoleta mac ‘n’ cheese, golf salad and and an optional Boston Lobster (HK$388) with chimichurri and lemon before finally rounding up the feast with a Spiced-baked Apple with vanilla ice cream for a truly winter holiday note. 

For more information: Buenos Aires Polo Club

181 Fortnum & Mason
K11 Atelier, Tsim Sha Tsui

festive dining 2021 christmas menu gafencu hong kong 181 fornum and mason
(Photo courtesy: 181 Fortnum & Mason)

For a quintessentially British affair this Christmas eve, 181 Fortnum & Mason offers its patrons a sophisticated festive menu to indulge in with your loved ones. Eschewing the Christmas set menus for an a la carte option, its Christmas eve menu features a glazed Norfolk Bronze turkey that will sit as the main attraction, and served with all the classic trimmings. Included on the menu is a chicken liver parfait with onion brioche and a Côte de Boeuf and a heartwarming Christmas Pudding and Apple and Blueberry Crumble to complete.  

For more information: fortnumandmason.com

Also Read: Christmas Bling: Luxurious decor to make your Christmas extra special

Your guide to hairy crab season in Hong Kong

Autumn does not mean pumpkin-spiced lattes for Hong Kongers (unlike the West) but calls for digging into copious portions of the steamed and meticulously prepared Chinese mitten crabs, Shanghai crabs or simply the hairy crabs. A delicacy in the Shanghainese cuisine, September to December is the peak time for this seasonal delicacy… Whether you’re a seasoned eater or new to the craze, we get all the lowdown on the these famed furry little fellows:

 

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Easily recognisable by its fuzzy claws, most shops offer the roes between 4 and 7 taels. Priced between HK$400 to HK$900 per piece, a crab between 5.2 and 6.8 taels (about 200g to 260g) is enough for an indulgent portion. 

Also read: Canton Fare – Top 30 Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong

Yangcheng, Jingsu, Thaihu or Hokkaido crabs?
The most famed and sought-after breed originates from the Yangtze River around Shanghai, usually in Yangcheng Lake and Jiangsu province. However, with the rising local demand for premium golden roes within China, supplies for neighbouring Hong Kong have dropped and prices have shot up.

To add to the troubles of dining aficionados, the issue of counterfeit hairy crabs from Yangcheng province is also big challenge, leading many to look to other countries such as Japan, for alternatives.

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Image from Nam Sam Yung Market

Japanese Hokkaido hairy crabs from the fresh waters of Ishikari River are safe and quality choice in place of Yangtze crabs. Unlike the richness of its Chinese counterpart, Hokkaido hairy crabs are lighter and more fragrant. Taihu Lake crabs from China, too, serves as a great alternative to the Yangcheng Lake breed, similar in quality and mouth-watering fragrant roes.

But if you do wish to go for the famed Yangcheng Shanghainese crab, be sure to look out for the anti-counterfeiting barcode attached to the crabs to verify its authentication. Hairy crab sellers are given something called the Shell Fish (Hairy Crab) Permit from the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department, do look out for the stamp before you crack open a feast. 

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Image from Nam Sam Yung Market

Where to get hairy crabs

Old San Yang
4 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay
For all things Shanghainese, this four-decade strong grocer has made a name for itself as one of the city’s go-to places for authentic Yangcheng and Taihu hairy crabs. Starting from 4 taels (HK$300 Up) and bigger, it is very popular among locals, especially during hairy crab season.

New Sam Yung Market
Hau Wong Road, Kowloon City
In Kowloon, Hau Wong Road is a popular for crab aficionados. Come autumn, the street is crowded with locals scurrying to grab the freshest batch available – offering Hokkaido as well as Jiangshu Shanghainese crabs – for at least HK$400 per 4.4 taels (166g).

Benson Crab & Wine
2 Min Fat Street, Happy Valley / info@benson.com.hk
An established wholesaler of hairy crabs since more than two decades, customers can enjoy wholesale price upon purchasing half or full baskets. It comes inclusive of 3 or 6 bottles of vinegar, ginger, sugar and perilla leaf to cook your own stress-free feast at home. Offering 58 pieces per bucket of 5 teals at $6,000 and 24 pcs of 6 teals at $3,900. Online orders are also available here. 

Revamped Bombay Dreams opens at a new location with a new menu!

In Hong Kong’s ever-changing dining scene, where restaurants so readily fall foul of high rents, shifting fads and fickle appetites, Bombay Dreams is truly a rarity. Unpretentious and understated, its delicious, authentic Indian fare has nevertheless held epicureans in sway for almost two decades. Now, this stalwart of the SAR’s competitive F&B industry has embarked on the next chapter of its journey, moving just a short distance to a new location in Central’s Winning Centre.

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Sandip Gupta, Founder of Bombay Dreams

The restaurant, which was originally founded in 2003 by Sandip Gupta, is now managed by S&S Hospitality, a new firm spearheaded by Gupta and his partner that operates 11 other restaurants in the city. In spite of his expansive portfolio, however, Bombay Dreams holds a special place in his heart as the first outlet he ever opened.

Speaking of its evolution over the years, he explains: “When we first launched Bombay Dreams, it was right after SARS, so it was challenging to say the least. Then, we weathered the global financial crisis of 2007, followed by the coronavirus pandemic over the past two years. Through it all, we strove to deliver Indian food of the highest calibre, and were fortunate to be rewarded with a loyal following of diners.”

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Reflecting on its long-lived success, Gupta muses: “Honestly, I don’t think it would have been possible without the passion of myself and the entire team. Many of our staff here now were with us from our earliest days, and I believe that the loyalty and trust we’ve built over the years have allowed us to persevere through every challenge. I don’t think there’s any hidden secret or short cut to our success. At the end of the day, it’s all about hard work, patience and determination.”

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Boasting a larger square-footage than its previous locale, the new interiors are awash with red and gold accents, while an abundance of natural light imparts a welcome airiness. The alcoholic offerings, too, have been upgraded to feature an expansive wine list and India-inspired cocktails, as well as an impressive whisky wall. That’s not to say, however, that equal emphasis hasn’t been placed on the food menu, as our own tasting revealed.

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To kick things off, we sampled an appetiser of Palak Patta Chaat. This contemporary take on the beloved Indian street food sees a deep-fried spinach leaf replace the traditional crackers as the base layer. Featuring boiled potatoes and green beans topped with yoghurt and tamarind sauce, it was refreshing and addictive in equal measure.

Also Read: Chaat serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India

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Then came Shahi Galouti Kebab, a dish that was originally commissioned by an ancient, ageing Lucknow ruler who wished to enjoy his favourite meat in a style that required less chewing. Wonderfully spiced without being overwhelming, the lamb kebabs in this rendition were all melt-in-your-mouth goodness.

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Next up were two mains that had been painstakingly cooked in Bombay Dreams’ ginormous tandoor ovens: Adrakh Ke Panje and Tandoori Pomfret. The former is fronted by marinated lamb chops that were sous vide for five hours before finishing in the tandoor. Its fall-off-the-bone texture was delightfully tender, with an added dash of lemon juice bringing a welcome acidity.

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The fish dish, meanwhile, was similarly succulent. Sampling bites with each of the various condiments – mint chutney, lemon, and fresh and pickled onions – gave every mouthful a different flavour. Keep in mind, though, that this fish is bone-in, so diners, ageing or not, would be wise to proceed carefully.

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With scarcely any room left, we dove into the concluding course, a dessert of Gajar Ka Halwa. An amalgam of shredded carrots, sugar and milk slow cooked to a mushy consistency, this is a dish – much like many Indian desserts – that will satiate even the sweetest of tooths.

 

Bombay Dreams, 1/F, Winning Centre,
46 Wyndham Street, Central. (852) 2811 9888.
www.sandshospitality.com/portfolio/bombay-dreams

 

Also Read: Northern Delights: Scrumptious Scandinavian dishes at Hjem

A fine Mediterranean dining experience at Salisterra

For over a decade, the top-most floor of The Upper House – the Admiralty-set five-star hospitality hotspot – was occupied by Cafe Grey Deluxe, the hotel’s all-day dining venue. At the end of 2020, however, it shuttered its doors for good and, in April, was reborn as Salisterra, a Mediterranean-inspired fine-dining establishment.

Boasting picturesque panoramas across Victoria Harbour, the new eatery is helmed by London-based, Michelin-starred Chef Jun Tanaka, with its everyday operations overseen by Chef de Cuisine Chris Czerwinski. As one might expect, opening a restaurant with an ongoing pandemic was a serious challenge. Explaining these obstacles, Czerwinski says: “With Chef Jun based in London and travel restrictions firmly in place, we had to open without his ever having tasted any of Salisterra’s dishes in person. It took a lot of Zoom conferences and frantic exchanges to make it happen.” 

“Nevertheless, the end result is something we’re truly proud of,” he continues, “and we strive to serve authentic Mediterranean-inspired flavours that showcase iconic dishes from the coastal regions of France and Italy.”

Eager to sample this culinary philosophy for ourselves, we tucked into our tasting menu with much anticipation. First to arrive was a cold appetiser of Flamed Saba Mackerel, a beautifully plated dish featuring six delicate slivers of fish garnished with refreshing pickled cucumbers and capers. 

Next to arrive was one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, the Langoustine Ravioli. This is, as Chef Czerwinski explained, a true labour of love, with the jus of the shellfish requiring hours upon hours to reduce to just the right consistency and condensed flavour, with the ravioli pasta also made fresh in-house daily. Within each dumpling lies a full langoustine and paired with a lush scallop mousse, with tart tomatoes balancing the dish’s oceanic accents.

Then, the Pickled Carrots with Coconut Yoghurt hoved into view. In a city as meat-obsessed as Hong Kong, it’s unusual to be served a vegetarian dish as a main course, but it definitely did not disappoint. Here, the slices of pickled carrots – all grown and harvested from The Upper House’s own organic garden – pack quite a visual punch, all purples, oranges and yellows. Hidden underneath is the coconut yoghurt, whose sweet creaminess perfectly ties in with the crunchiness of the carrots. A sprinkle of fried garlic, meanwhile, bequeaths the dish with a lovely umami finish. 

Scarcely had we finished when the next course Market Fish with Lemon Confit, Miso, Fennel and Radish – arrived tableside. Yet another of Salisterra’s signatures and a quintessential example of Mediterranean cuisine, the whole grilled snapper is heaped with thinly sliced slivers of pickled radish and turnips. A great sharing platter, local diners who prefer their seafood steamed or subtly flavoured may find it unusual. Nonetheless, it’s a refreshing, light main that leaves a strong impression. 

Finally, with our appetites nearly satiated, we concluded our tasting with a beautiful Fresh Strawberry Tartlette. Unlike the savoury part of the menu, this is truly rich decadence at its very finest, with the pastry filled with creme de patisserie, topped with a tartly sweet strawberry gel and capped with a white chocolate mousse. The attraction of this dessert is that – thanks to its disparate parts – every bite tastes slightly different, making each mouthful something of a gastronomic adventure. The accompanying scoop of strawberry sorbet is a deft addition, cutting through the tartlette’s richness  with aplomb. 

 

Salisterra. 49/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admirality. (852) 3968 1106. salisterra.thehousecollective.com

 

Enso Good: Delicious Japanese yakitori and stunning ocean views…

Just 30 years ago, the now decidedly-vibrant Kennedy Town district was anything but a happening locale. In fact, it was a rather unattractive, largely residential area and home to way more than its fair share of factories and wholesale markets, as well as a less than convivial abattoir. Since then, however, this once undesirable locale has undergone a complete transformation, making it now – arguably – one of the city’s premium F&B destinations in town. Indeed, even the most cursory of visits here will highlight the wide-range of cuisines available within its precincts – including French, Mexican, Lebanese, Japanese and far more besides.

It’s small wonder, then, that it was the location of choice for the proprietors of Ensō, a brand-new yakitori – a uniquely Japanese take on skewered dishes – eatery, which has only recently welcome its first paying patron. Although officially still in its soft opening phase, the word-of-mouth with regard to the compact and bijou 28-seat restaurant is already very positive, a consequence of both its menu choices and its stunning views out across Victoria Harbour.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views…

When it comes to making a first impression, its interior is reassuringly sleek and clean. Venturing a little further in, would-be diners are treated to the enticing sight of the restaurant’s signature skewers being openly prepared. Although comparatively uncapacious, larger groups can be accommodated among its booths, that is if they manage to navigate their way past its alluring display of wall-to-wall alcohol (although still awaiting its drink license, this remains an impressive statement of intent).

Such diversion aside, though, the true star here – and rightly so – is the food. Keen to acknowledging this, owner Renee says: “I wanted to create a neighbourhood restaurant that focuses on serving good food, with an emphasis on choosing great ingredients and delivering top-notch customer service. Above all, I want to ensure our diners will always want to come back for more.”

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views…wagyu
Eager to see if her words were borne out by the fare on offer, our first dish – a sumptuous serving of Wagyu Beef (A5) – couldn’t arrive too soon. Regarded by true gourmands as the undisputed epitome of all things bovine, this particular platterful saw the beautifully-marbled slices of beef cooked to a perfect medium-rare. Ably enhancing its inherent flavours yet further, meanwhile, were an array of condiments – pink salt, garlic chips, whole grain mustard and a soy sauce foam – that defiantly added an extra delightful dimension to every forkful.

Next to arrive tableside was the Mixed Chicken Platter. Rather than opting simply for the standard chicken cuts – legs, thighs, breasts – this decidedly bold dish actually treats the more daring diner to an epicurean exploration of the less-feted parts of the bird – to wit, the liver, gizzard, heart, skin, soft bone, neck, wing and tail. Thankfully, despite this unorthodoxy, there’s something on the platter to suit every taste. Fans of foie gras, for example, will enjoy the rich decadence of the liver, while the soft bone boasts an interestingly crunchy texture. The most unusual though, is undoubtedly the chicken tail skewer with its striking gelatinous and fatty texture.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… wagyu and chicken skewers
In the case of the next course – the Minced Chicken Stick – its rather innocuous appearance definitely belied the flavourful punch packed into every bite. The meat proper is, apparently, hand-ground to a secret recipe, with the grill then imparting its own deliciously smoky legacy. The highlight, though, is the accompanying dipping Japanese egg yolk and soy sauce, which adds a luxuriant layer of creaminess.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… lamb rack
For its part, the penultimate platter, Lamb Rack, comprised two Australian lamb chops accompanied by whole-grain mustard and a verdant mint sauce. Once again showcasing the chef’s skills, the meat came wholly unadorned save for a sprinkle of salt and pepper, ensuring its inherent flavours shone through, with the refreshing sweet mint sauce cutting through any lingering oiliness.

gafencu magazine dining taste Enso Good Delicious Japanese-style skewered chicken and stunning ocean views… hokkaido butter scallop
It’s with some reluctance we then moved onto the Hokkaido Butter Scallops, but only because we knew it was the concluding course. Undeniably a guilty pleasure, the buttery sauce enhanced (while simultaneously tempering) the oceanic accents of the mollusc, allowing its sweet tenderness to shine through. As with the day’s other dishes, it again showcased the chef’s deft understanding of the delicate interplay between each ingredient the notes imparted by grilling over an open fire – undoubtedly two of the many reasons why Ensō could well be K-Town’s next Big Thing.

 

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Wonton Wants: A guide to the city’s best-loved wonton noodle soup restaurants

From pan-fried versions to steamed avatars, dumplings are one of the most iconic and beloved dishes of Chinese cuisine. The Cantonese wonton, though, is a rather more unique offering that can be found throughout the city. Be they stuffed with crunchy shrimps, pork or vegetables, these hearty morsels hold a special place in Hongkongers’ hearts as being the epitome of comfort food. While they can be found on practically every street corner, only a handful merit recognition for their homey flavours and original recipes. Below are a few wonton noodle soup restaurants that top this list. 

The city's coveted wonton shops to try gafencu dining (2)
Image: Ho Hung Kee

Ho Hung Kee
One of the longest-standing wonton noodle soup restaurants in Hong Kong (founded in 1946), it has earned many accolades and even nabbed a coveted Michelin star during its seventy years of operation. Though its portions are on the smaller side,  their flavour-packed wontons filled with fresh crunchy shrimps pack a mighty punch, lovingly topped with al dente noodles in a lightly seasoned broth.
Price: HK$39 per bowl
Location: Causeway Bay

The city's coveted wonton shops to try gafencu dining mak's noodle
Image: Mak’s Noodle

Mak’s Noodle
A household name among local gourmands, this Central-set eatery is known to many as the grandfather of wonton noodle soup restaurants. Although first-timers may be deterred by the shockingly small servings, the establishment’s signature broth and delicious fish-and-shrimp wontons have seen it find favour across the board.
Price: HK$45 per bowl
Location: Central

The city's coveted wonton shops to try gafencu dining flickr
Image: chee hong via flickr

Lau Sam Kee
Whether it is wonton noodles in soup or wonton lo mein (where the noodles and a dipping soup are served separately), this eatery cooks up both to perfection. Set in the heart of Kowloon’s street food Mecca of Sham Shui Po, its wontons are made with a deliciously savoury pork and shrimp filling. The highlight, however, is the accompanying noodles. Being one of the few remaining places that makes their noodles by hand using the traditional method of Jook-Sing (bamboo hitting), Lam Sau Kee’s signature bouncy egg noodle is definitely a unique cultural treat.
Price: HK$34 per bowl
Location: Sham Shui Po

The city's coveted wonton shops to try gafencu dining

Mak Man Kee
Across its half-century legacy, this most eminent of wonton noodle soup restaurants has risen from humble beginnings as a street food cart to become one of Kowloon’s crowning culinary gems. Located on Parkes Street, Mak Man Kee is known for flavour-packed broths punctuated with wontons that are filled with shrimp, pork and Jinhua ham (a dry-cured ham). Each petite-sized bowl comes brimming with egg noodles and generously-sized wonton. 
Price: HK$36 per bowl
Location: Jordan

The city's coveted wonton shops to try gafencu dining flickr (2)
Image: city foodsters via flickr

Yuen Hing Long Noodle House
The delicious wontons served at this old-timey shop not only imparts a delightful shot of nostalgia, but also aims to satiate your appetite with nary a dash of MSG to be found. Located on Queen’s Road West, the wonton noodles here are served with an MSG-free pork bone broth that imparts a hint of sweetness to proceedings. Tucked between a pharmacy and a narrow alleyway, it’s easy to miss if you don’t watch your step. 
Price: HK$28 per bowl
Location: Shek Tong Tsui