Classical Beauty: Follow in the fascinating footsteps of great Western thinkers on a tour of ancient Athens

Athens is known as the cradle of Western civilisation for good reason – full of classical, marble-pillared edifices to the foremost minds of ancient Greece, it is a place of importance and influence that lingers into the modern day. Here, ancient ruins form the magnificent backdrop to teeming markets, cafés and tavernas, a melting pot of cultures in a city that gained fame as a centre of art and literature, commerce and industry, and above all, philosophy and oratory. The ideas originating out of Athens, which spawned great thinkers thousands of years ago, are still discussed, debated and pored over today. Ultimately, this is a city like no other.

Acropolis wow

The world-famous Acropolis is one of the most iconic monuments in the whole of Greece as well as Europe, and perhaps the wider world. Open all year round, this jewel is quite simply a must-visit for its cultural significance and its broader architectural importance. Despite the wider urban sprawl, the temples on the ‘Sacred Rock’ of Athens still command an imposing presence, especially at night or viewed from the right angle – such as driving east on the so-called Sacred Way, otherwise known as Iera Odos, from Eleusis to Athens. Marvelling at its immense rocky bulk from Plaka – an old quarter clustering at the foot of the Acropolis, which itself is steeped with archaeological sites both large and small – is also awe-inspiring.

The most recognisable of the monumental structures is the Parthenon, whose decorative sculptures are considered by many as the epitome of ancient Greek classical art. Historically, it was presented as a magnificent ‘Temple to the Virgin’ in 438 BC, namely the goddess Athena, who was represented by a giant gold and ivory sculpture. The temple took nine years to complete and over the years has served as a church, a mosque and even an arsenal.

A portion of the Parthenon frieze, a stretch of sculpted figures that ran around the inner wall, now resides in the British Museum. These are known as the Elgin Marbles in reference to Lord Elgin who had negotiated a permit from sultan of the Ottoman Empire to remove “some blocks of stone with inscriptions and figures” in 1801; the exact terms of this deal remain a source of contention between the governments of Greece and the UK.

Ancient wonder

Sculptures left behind by Elgin are housed in the Acropolis Museum, situated below the Parthenon near the Akropoli metro station. Amazing authentic fragments are mounted at eye level in the museum, while the rest is a plaster cast awaiting a possible future – and campaigned-for – return to their original site. They are all displayed in the order in which they would have graced the Parthenon.

Containing a slew of treasures found in and around the Acropolis, this glittering all-glass museum offers great insight into the daily life of ancient Athens. The building harnesses natural light for the best presentation of these relics, and its glass floor allows visitors to gaze down at the site of an early Christian settlement. Marvel at the Peplos Kore, an Archaic votive statue retaining exquisite and intricate detail such as traces of paint visible on her eyes, lips and curly hair. Then delight in the form of another Archaic sculpture dating back to 570 BC – a bearded man carrying a calf as a sacrificial offering for Athena.

Theatre under the stars

Cut into the southern cliff face of the Acropolis is the enduring cultural legacy of the Theatre of Dionysus. Some 17,000 Athenians would amass on its tiered stone steps, entranced by dramatists like Aristophanes, Menander, Sophocles, Aeschylus and Euripides. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an immensely tall late addition to the Acropolis, often served as a venue for the enactment of ancient Greek tragedies. It now plays host to modern-day singers, dancers and actors during the glorious moonlit performances of the Athens Epidaurus Festival.

Below the Acropolis is another amazing heartbeat of the ancient world, the Agora, where the likes of Socrates, Aristotle and Paul the Apostle once held court. This marketplace with its council buildings, law courts and thronging streets formed the political focal point of ancient Athens from 600 BC, and some academics suggest it was where democracy breathed into life. An interesting historical nugget is that speeches made at the Agora were strictly timed using a water clock called a clepsydra.

The complex also contains the Stoa of Attalos, a world-class museum within a magnificent two-storey structure that was built by King Attalus of Pergamon between 159 and 138 BC, and reconstructed by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in the 1950s.

Sculpted splendour

Also well worth a visit is the National Archaeological Museum, considered one of the finest museums anywhere and packed full of great works spanning the Neolithic and Bronze Ages right up to the Roman era. Its Bronze collection boasts a breathtaking 460 BC sculpture of either Poseidon or Zeus, while its Hellenistic statuary exhibits the vigorous movement and sensuality characteristic of sculptures in this period.

Some of the works housed in the Museum of Cycladic Art – such as the early Bronze Age female marble statuettes – have inspired the artists of today. Fantastic Greek art from Neolithic times to the modern day can be admired at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, where more than 6,000 objects are displayed over four floors. Meanwhile, the Byzantine and Christian Museum showcases some 25,000 exhibits, offering a unique insight into Greek heritage.

Located southeast of the Acropolis is ancient Greece’s most colossal temple. The Temple of Olympian Zeus was conceived circa 515 BC by the tyrant Peisistratos, yet political turmoil delayed its completion until AD 131 under Roman Emperor Hadrian. Sixteen magnificent columns survive from the original 104.

Turning back the clock

At the Roman Agora, which supplanted the Greek Agora as the commercial and administrative centre during Roman rule, a stream ran down from the Acropolis to operate a water clock known as the Tower of the Winds. This superb octagonal tower was masterminded by Syrian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes in about 50 BC.

Remnants of the outer wall of ancient Athens can be seen at Kerameikos, providing a fascinating insight into life and death in this classical city. Used as a burial ground since the 12th century BC, this sacred place comprises a series of elaborate tombs, temples and roads, and even an ancient brothel.

Shop and graze

Moving onto modern attractions rooted in history, one of the liveliest and most colourful areas in Athens is Monastiraki. Located against the wondrous backdrop of the Acropolis, its bustling maze of alleys and pedestrianised streets encompass the remains of the aforementioned Greek and Roman agora and are brimming with shops, clubs, bars and taverns. A thriving area day and night, the Monastiraki neighbourhood take its name from the restored church in the centre of its lively square.

Perhaps Athens’ most popular shopping thoroughfare is Ermou Street, which starts from the west side of Syntagma Square and leads to Monastiraki. Lined with designer boutiques, coffee shops and department stores, it guides visitors down to a funky flea market where a row of souvenir shops awaits.

Edible art

Blessed with a wide range of Mediterranean influences, the culinary delights of Greece exhibit diverse flavours. Athens offers a great range of restaurants serving favourites from moussaka to grilled seafood to souvlaki (chicken, pork or lamb spit-roasted for hours) on a bed of vegetables. Varvakios Agora (Central Market) affords the ideal opportunity to sample some of the local Greek cuisine.

Spondi is considered one of Athens’ most sophisticated restaurants. Its exquisitely prepared haute cuisine may include signatures like crab with turnip, honey, tarragon and passiflora, and venison in Sarawak pepper crust.

Pages of Wanders: Undiminished by the digital age, libraries speak volumes about our shared history and thirst for knowledge 

Throughout history, libraries have served as centres for learning and debate, powering innovations and movements. The Renaissance saw a surge in libraries as they became hubs for the scholars and thinkers of the day. The modern public library movement, which began in the 19th century, democratised access to information, making education and literature available to all, regardless of socioeconomic status. 

Truly, libraries have long stood as bastions of knowledge, history and beauty, and their significance remains unwavering despite an increasingly digital world. However, as we look to the future, the challenge for these edifices lies in adapting to new technologies while maintaining their core values. Innovative libraries are already embracing digital advancements by offering hybrid services that combine physical and digital readings, e-books and online courses.

Moreover, sustainability is becoming a focus, with many libraries advocating eco-friendly practices within their buildings and programming. By prioritising green initiatives, modern-day bibliotheca can serve as model institutions for environmental stewardship.

Today’s bookworms can appreciate libraries not just for their highbrow collections, but also their breathtaking architecture that invites exploration and contemplation. From enchanting monastery libraries to sleek, modern book repositories, these sanctuaries offer unique cultural experiences and stunning aesthetics. Here, we browse around some of the most beautiful and most comprehensive libraries around the globe.

Admont Abbey Library, Austria

Nestled within a Benedictine monastery about 150 kilometres east of Salzburg, the Admont Abbey Library is a stunning example of Baroque architecture. While the original abbey building dates back to 1047, the grand library hall was completed in 1776. Some 70,000 volumes are displayed beneath breathtaking frescoed ceilings. A space for study but also a work of art, this is the largest monastery library in the world, with another 130,000 books stored in the full collection. A place of learning in a region known for its rich cultural and religious heritage, it embodies the spirit of the Enlightenment.

George Peabody Library, Baltimore, USA

Often cited as the most beautiful library in the world, the George Peabody Library in Baltimore features a stunning atrium with five tiers of wrought-iron balconies and Victorian décor. Connected to Johns Hopkins University, it opened in 1878, though the collection of more than 300,000 volumes first stemmed from the founding of the Peabody Institute in 1857. The architectural grandeur and meticulous arrangement of books provide an experience that is both visually captivating and intellectually enriching, fostering lifelong learning and community engagement.

Tianjin Binhai Library, China

A modern marvel, the Tianjin Binhai Library opened in 2017 and has quickly become an architectural icon. Its futuristic design is characterised by undulating white walls that create a flowing, interactive environment. Aptly named The Eye for its luminous sphere that serves as an auditorium, this library aims to inspire creativity and community. With a capacity of 1.2 million books, it is a key part of a splendid cultural centre in Tianjin that promotes literacy and innovation in a rapidly developing urban landscape.

Library of El Escorial, Spain

The Library of the Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, part of the royal site near Madrid, is a significant historic library founded by Philip II of Spain in the late 16th century. It houses a remarkable collection of manuscripts, texts and maps, many from the Renaissance period. The library’s austere Renaissance architecture contrasts with its rich interior, which echoes the intellectual pursuits of its time and serves as a reminder of the nation’s rich historical legacy.

Royal Library, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Royal Danish Library combines tradition with contemporary flair. Founded by Frederick III of Denmark in 1648 and expanding with a striking new building at its main site in 1999 – the Black Diamond – it collectively holds millions of books and numerous artifacts. Its location along the Copenhagen waterfront makes it a popular gathering place for both locals and tourists, with space for concerts and exhibitions. The Royal Library champions the idea that accessibility to knowledge is vital, encouraging public engagement through various cultural events.

National Library of Finland, Helsinki

The National Library of Finland is a treasure trove of cultural history; the oldest part of its Helsinki complex was built in 1844, though the library’s roots go back to 1640. This Neoclassical architecture, coupled with modern renovations, creates a harmonious blend of old and new. With a collection numbering more than three million items, it is the oldest and largest library in Finland, playing a crucial role in preserving Finnish literature and culture. 

Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

The main research library of the University of Oxford, the Bodleian Library is one of the oldest in Europe. Established in 1602, its stunning Gothic architecture, including the iconic Radcliffe Camera – a science library turned historic reading room – makes it a symbol of scholarly prestige. Housing more than 13 million printed materials, ‘the Bod’ also serves as a cultural heritage site, hosting exhibitions and tours that connect the public with academia. Its ongoing preservation efforts underscore the importance of maintaining libraries in the digital age.

Library of Trinity College Dublin, Ireland

Founded in 1592 in tandem with the university, Trinity College Dublin Library is the largest in Ireland, home to more than six million tomes including the Book of Kells – a masterpiece of medieval art detailing the four gospels of the New Testament. It is also famous for its Long Room, replete with rows of ancient books, a collection of marble busts and a magnificent barrel-vaulted ceiling. Committed to scholarship and public engagement, the library represents an essential intersection of education, history and culture, ensuring that the past remains accessible to future generations. 

Beitou Public Library, Taiwan

Built in a Taipei park as Taiwan’s first green library, Beitou Public Library is a shining example of how modern libraries can embrace sustainability and community focus. Opened in 2006, it was built with eco-friendly materials and harmonises with its natural surroundings. The library serves not only as a vital resource for the local community, but also as a model for environmentally conscious architecture. It illustrates the evolving role of libraries as spaces for learning and gathering in a modern context.

Rampur Raza Library, India

The Raza Library in Rampur, Uttar Pradesh, has a collection of 17,000 Indo-Islamic manuscripts and rare texts. A blend of Mughal and European architecture styles symbolising the confluence of cultures, the Rampur Raza Library is crucial for preserving India’s diverse heritage. It emphasises that libraries are pivotal in maintaining the historical narrative of a nation.

Minority Generosity: The Ruttonjees, a Parsi family, exemplify the diversity of Hong Kong benevolence

Along with other great philanthropic families in Hong Kong history, the Ruttonjees have left an indelible mark on the city. Their legacy has been amazing acts of giving and the establishment of vital charitable foundations. Through their generosity, their footprint on the social fabric is wide, deep-rooted and continues to this day.

The story of the Ruttonjee family, in many ways, mirrors that of Hong Kong – an epic tale of trade, entrepreneurship, philanthropy and, sometimes, overcoming huge adversity. They are Parsis, an ethnoreligious group originally from Persia (now Iran) that migrated to India, and their patriarch, Hormusjee Ruttonjee, arrived in Hong Kong from Bombay in 1884. He soon began trading in wine, spirits and provisions and founded the family company, H. Ruttonjee & Son, Ltd. Ruttonjee Hospital in Wan Chai, formerly Ruttonjee Sanitorium and dating back to 1949, is the most visible of the family’s many gifts to the city.

The Ruttonjees: Industry, Foresight & Charities, a coffee-table book launched earlier this summer, superbly documents their contributions to the success and well-being of the community. Aside from preserving their own family history for future generations, the tome is intended as a celebration of all those industrious families who have enabled Hong Kong’s rise, no matter their ethnicity or background. It will be placed in public libraries, providing insight to all on how and why the city has thrived.

Ethnic diversity

“Since 1842, numerous ethnic groups have contributed [to Hong Kong] and this should be highlighted to the young local population,” says fourth-generation family member Noshir N. Shroff. He cites the fine examples of many other Parsis in the early years of Hong Kong such as Sir Hormusjee Mody of brokerage company Chater and Mody, and Dorabjee Naorojee Mithaiwala, founder of the Kowloon Ferry Company (forerunner of the Star Ferry).

“The Indians have been traders for a long time and have contributed to the robust Hong Kong economy,” notes Shroff, while stressing that other ethnic minorities, including the Filipinos and the Nepalese, were also instrumental in Hong Kong’s growth over the last century, working alongside the local Chinese population and the British.

Entrepreneurial drive

It was Hormusjee Ruttonjee’s determination to succeed that most impresses Shroff as he surveys his rich family history. He particularly admires his great-great-grandfather’s entrepreneurial spirit, coming to Hong Kong by ship and venturing into segments of the market where he saw opportunities but had little knowledge.

This flair for business was inherited by Hormusjee’s son, Jehangir H. Ruttonjee, who struck out on his own, founding the Hong Kong Brewery and Distillery Ltd. The Sham Tseng brewery he opened in the 1930s was subsequently acquired and operated by San Miguel until 1996.

Noshir Shroff is proud of how Jehangir overcame the many obstacles standing in the way of his vision. He was able to gain not only the necessary water rights from the government but also the support of the villagers. In a testament to his business ethics, he rented their land, one parcel at a time, rather than buying it outright, thus affording them a regular annual income.

Winning hearts

Indeed, it was Jehangir’s sympathetic interactions with the locals all those years ago that, in part, initiated the family book. When its author, Carl Lau, was conducting his doctorate research in the Sham Tseng area, the Ruttonjee name was repeatedly mentioned by village elders.

Shroff retells the story: “The villagers recalled how they wanted a piece of land for a school and clinic, and were prepared to purchase this, but Jehangir told them he would not sell – he wished to give them the land.”

When Lau eventually met Shroff and his family, it was agreed that he would write a book about their history – not just their connection to Sham Tseng but their wider business and philanthropic endeavours.

Enduring hardship

The Japanese occupation of Hong Kong during the Second World War counts among the biggest challenges the Ruttonjee family would face. In these dark times, they housed and fed many fellow Parsis in their two Duddell Street buildings, with all welcome to shelter in the basement during air raids.

Although Jehangir’s prominence and reputation initially earned him the ear of the Japanese, his activities soon began to raise their ire. “Jehangir orchestrated a fundraising campaign for the maintenance and relief of British [civilians held in the internment camps],” relates Shroff. “That was a step too far for the Japanese and resulted in him and his son, Dhun, being imprisoned and brutally tortured.”

Following a turbulent post-war period with the collapse of the stock market and crop failures, Jehangir sold the brewery business to San Miguel ¬– and in characteristic fashion steered the money into numerous charity projects.

Charity after tragedy

The tragic passing of his two daughters, Tehmi in 1944 from tuberculosis, and some eight years later, Freni of cancer, shaped the direction of the family’s charitable legacy. “Despite the grief [of Tehmi’s death], Jehangir provided funds for setting up the Ruttonjee Sanatorium for those affected [by TB]. This building is now the home of Ruttonjee Hospital, a part of the Hospital Authority,” says Shroff, who is exceedingly proud of this project.

Establishing the Hong Kong Anti-Tuberculosis Association in 1948 – now named the Hong Kong Tuberculosis, Chest and Heart Diseases Association, and involved in the management of the Ruttonjee and Grantham Hospitals – has, Shroff believes, made a huge difference to the people of Hong Kong. “Commitment to the association has become a [Ruttonjee-Shroff] tradition with several family members serving on the board of directors,” he says.

After the death of his second daughter, Jehangir erected the Freni Memorial Convalescent Home for the rehabilitation of tuberculosis patients. “Decades later, once TB was in permanent decline, this building became the Freni Care and Attention Home for the aged,” explains Shroff. The 250-bed nursing home, the Rusy M. Shroff Dental Clinic and four Chinese medicine clinics come under the remit of the Hong Kong Tuberculosis, Chest and Heart Diseases Association.

Passing the baton

Jehangir Ruttonjee was also President of the Hong Kong Society for the Protection of Children from 1950-1955, patron of the Family Planning Association of Hong Kong and chair of the Hong Kong Model Housing Society. “He died in 1960, having donated HK$2 million over his lifetime, a considerable sum in those early days,” says Shroff.

Following the death of his son Dhun in 1974, the mantle as head of the family passed to Rusy Shroff, the nephew Jehangir had adopted along with siblings Beji and Minnie after their father was lost at sea during a typhoon in 1931.

Good deeds

The importance of religious faith cannot be underestimated in the family story. The Parsi community practise Zoroastrianism, one of the world’s oldest monotheistic religions. “The core teachings of Zoroastrianism are good thoughts, good words and good deeds. Charity plays a very big part here,” says Shroff.

Other Parsi families who came to Hong Kong in the 1800s used their fortunes for the good of the city. Hormusjee Mody’s largesse, for example, enabled the founding of the University of Hong Kong.

Shroff believes such acts of benevolence are the Hong Kong way. “Look at the number of charitable foundations established by our local tycoons,” he says. “They have profited by Hong Kong and are giving back. The favourite saying of my uncle, Rusy Shroff, was ‘To live is to give and forgive’.” In 2017, three months before Rusy Shroff passed away at age 100, he established the Rusy and Purviz Shroff Charitable Foundation, which has since given more than HK$200 million to charities in Hong Kong, mainland China and India.

Heritage Pilgrimage: Restored and ordinarily repurposed, Hong Kong’s remaining old buildings prompt trips down memory lane

In Hong Kong, it is not uncommon to demolish buildings that are only 30 years old (or younger) in order to make room for dazzling new office towers or public housing blocks. However, a new trend has evolved – turning grand buildings constructed during the 150 years of British colonial rule into hip places to dine, stay, and oddly enough, take in some culture. Escaping the fate of countless others that were destroyed, some historic buildings have survived to the present day and are prospering with a new life and purpose. While Hong Kong is famous for its contemporary skyscrapers, the city has more to offer.

Privately owned old buildings, on the other hand, might be difficult to preserve since owners may be able to request their demolition or redevelopment regardless of their historical legacy. Unless the property is declared a monument, the owner has the right to demolish it even if it is a graded building or demonstrates exceptional value. The government typically stays out of legal disputes between conservationists who want to preserve Hong Kong’s heritage and owners who can make money by replacing old with new. As a result, protecting these structures requires the help of the public who must stand up to stop heritage buildings from coming down.

Successful preservation projects are those that match the neighbourhood, do not cause an undue disturbance, and help society learn more about the past. The onus is on the government, the courts and the community to act more responsibly, recognise historic structures as a form of publicly owned treasure and take steps to prevent them from being hijacked by developers. We stop by seven restored buildings whose legacies can still be appreciated today.

1881 Heritage

The former Marine Police Headquarters that stood atop a hillock in the centre of Tsim Sha Tsui from 1884 to 1996 has been revitalised and reincorporated into the modern urban fabric of the neighbourhood. After considerable restoration and conservation work, a cultural and shopping landmark called 1881 Heritage, was created. Opened in 2019, it is home to upscale stores and restaurants, trendy bars, a heritage hotel and an exhibition hall where visitors can learn about the site’s history.

Blue House

A historic group of structures distinguished by their vivid colour has withstood the test of time. One cannot miss the Blue House, a four-house, four-storey balcony-type tenement block with a blend of Chinese and Western architectural elements situated in Stone Nullah Lane in the city’s Wan Chai neighbourhood. Built in 1922, this grade-one historic structure is an eye-catching example of a tong lau, or tenement building, commonly constructed in southern China and Southeast Asia in the late 19th century. The stunning blue exterior inspiring its moniker, the Blue House has come to represent a relatively uncommon Hong Kong success story in urban conservation. It received a Unesco Asia-Pacific Award of Excellence for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2017.

Court of Final Appeal

One of Central’s most recognisable structures provides a neo-classical visual contrast amid a sea of high-rises. Constructed in 1912, the Court of Final Appeal Building – also known as the Old Supreme Court Building – has been designated as a monument. The two-storey granite structure supported by ionic columns is also noted for the 2.7-metre-tall, blindfolded statue of Themis, the Greek goddess of justice and law, that surmounts its central pediment; below is a semi-circular window topped by a carving of the British Royal Coat of Arms. One may take a tour of the premises and watch court proceedings.

Lui Seng Chun

This magnificent corner tong lau shophouse, designed by architect W.H. Bourne, once housed a bone-setting business and the Lui family’s private dwelling. It is now a Declared Monument. Its architecture is characteristic of the period’s hybrid Chinese-Western design, with large verandahs that made it possible to live indoors and outside in the absence of air conditioning. Even though all of its neighboring structures were renovated, the home managed to endure. In 2012, it underwent restoration and was turned into a Chinese medical center. Don’t overlook the exhibition and herbal tea shop on the ground floor.

Tai Kwun

As one of the most expensive real-estate markets in the world, Hong Kong doesn’t waste any space – which is why finding a location like the Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts is so refreshing. This historic heritage regeneration project, which officially opened in 2018 along Hollywood Road in Central, boasts a sizable courtyard encircled by 16 buildings from the colonial era and lush trees set over six acres. The following year it won the Unesco Award of Excellence for Cultural Heritage Conservation. A unicorn in Hong Kong, it is a free, open and laid-back area that more than lives up to its promise of offering engaging artistic, cultural, culinary and shopping experiences. Arriving at Tai Kwun on any given day, one will find a calendar of events that includes changing exhibitions, art installations, performances, films, concerts and storytelling spaces as well as regular tours.

The Clock Tower

Standing 44 metres high, the Clock Tower was built as part of the Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus in Tsim Sha Tsui in 1915. The once-bustling station is now gone, but this red brick and granite tower is still standing as a graceful relic of the Steam Age. It was declared a monument in 1990, and certainly, the millions of Chinese immigrants who passed through the terminus on their way to start a new life in Hong Kong or another part of the globe would have found it a memorable landmark. The bronze bell that had chimed from 1921 to 1976 was restored to its rightful place in the tower in 2021 in honour of its centennial.

Western Market

The oldest market building still standing in Hong Kong, Western Market occupies a whole block between Connaught Road Central and Des Voeux Road Central in Sheung Wan. The red-brick Edwardian-style structure has a granite entrance and prominent corner towers; it was completed in 1906 and sold produce until 1988. Today, it is home to cafés, restaurants, curio shops and fabric merchants who were relocated from stalls in adjacent lanes after it was refurbished and reopened in 1991. Visitors to this historic site may want to travel here by another still thriving vestige of Hong Kong heritage – Western Market is one of Hong Kong Tramways’ seven terminuses.

Crocadu: Kakadu is rich in wildlife and aboriginal cultural history

Kakadu

A crocodile thrashing out of the water to strike its prey is just one of the countless awe-inspiring sights to behold at Kakadu. The huge national park in Australia’s Northern Territory has earned World Heritage status for its amazing natural beauty and a rich Aboriginal cultural history stretching over 50,000 years. There are some of the oldest-known rock paintings in the world, wildlife spotting opportunities galore, fantastic hiking and bushwalking, and superb boat cruises across luscious wetlands as the area protects an entire tropical river system. A crocodile thrashing out of the water to strike its prey is just one of the countless awe-inspiring sights to behold at Kakadu. The huge national park in Australia’s Northern Territory has earned World Heritage status for its amazing natural beauty and a rich Aboriginal cultural history stretching over 50,000 years. There are some of the oldest-known rock paintings in the world, wildlife spotting opportunities galore, fantastic hiking and bushwalking, and superb boat cruises across luscious wetlands as the area protects an entire tropical river system. 

Kakadu

The largest national park in Australia, Kakadu lies 150 miles east of Darwin, covers 20,000 sq. km, and is a mosaic of habitats teeming with plants and animals, red 500-foot escarpment cliffs, hidden swimming holes and magnificent views. The best time to visit is the dry season, which runs from May to October. Although some areas are closed due to flooding in the tropical summer, many fantastic sites like Burrungkuy (Nourlangie Rock), Ubirr and the Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water) wetlands can still be accessed wet or dry. Some seasoned visitors suggest Kakadu is at its best during the wet season when the waters are flowing in all their glory and the wetlands are lush and vibrant. A compromise could be to go just at the start of the dry season to get the best of both worlds. 

Kakadu

A 10-year master plan to grow culturally appropriate tourism is in full swing and was developed in consultation with Kakadu’s traditional owners, the Bininj/Mungguy people. This has reaped dividends already, including last year’s upgrade of the Cahills Crossing viewing area – one of the best places for crocodile spotting. Here, fearsome beasts reaching up to six metres in length, whose muscular tails can propel their body out of the water for a lunge of deadly effect, are seen in the greatest numbers towards the end of the dry season (August to November). 

Kakadu
A must-do for any visit to Kakadu is a sunrise-to-sunset cruise run by the indigenous-owned Yellow Water Cruises that follow the landscape of the Yellow Water Billabong and tributaries of the South Alligator River. A truly majestic experience, this drift across the lotus-covered floodplains provides one of the best bird-watching environments anywhere in the world. There are 300 different species, including blue-winged kookaburras, magpie geese, jabirus, parrots and many others. Catching a glimpse of crocodiles and buffalo on the floodplains is also common. 

Kakadu

The park has also gained a global reputation for its concentration of rock art sites, with some paintings dating back 20,000 years. The large rock outcrops and caves of Nourlangie and Ubirr are the most famous, and evidence suggests they have sheltered local tribes for the past 6,000 years. Most of the rock-art styles found in Kakadu are evident on the northern side of Nourlangie Rock. Reflecting the Bininj/Mungguy bond with the land, there are paintings of hunting and fishing, of local animals and human figures, including Algaihgo, the fire woman, who was revered as one of the first people to have created the world. 

Read the full interview in the April 2023 issue (pg: 138). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.  

The Archaeological Discovery That Unravelled The Story of A Lost Pharaoh

Tutankhamun

It was 1923 when Howard Carter, a British archaeologist and adventurer, had come across a burial site that had lain untouched since it had been dedicated to the memory of its revered occupant more than 30 centuries earlier. He had uncovered the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings. 

Tutankhamun, an 18th dynasty King thought to have died around 1323 BC, was buried with many of the accumulated testaments to his wealth and power in a royal necropolis. Its eventual uncovering delivered a unique treasure trove of past wonders.

Among the 5,000 priceless artefacts were a huge collection of ancient jewellery, commemorative statues, a disassembled chariot, weapons and royal regalia. There was a perfectly preserved mummy, with the long-embalmed body of the prince the first intact example ever to be found.

Also Read: Van Cleef & Arpels historic 1925 Egyptian-style jewellery

Tutankhamun

Long after the opening of the tomb, researchers completed a DNA analysis of the king’s body, allowing them to create a family tree spanning back five generations. The genetic tests also identified links with other mummies, including establishing that Akhenaten was his father, Amenhotep III his grandfather and Queen Tiye his grandmother. It was also determined that he ascended to the throne at the age of just nine following the death of his father. He also died young, being laid to rest in his entombment place when he was just 18.

Tutankhamun

Applying contemporary scientific techniques, including x-rays, CT scans and DNA testing, it was determined that Tutankhamun suffered from malaria as well as a number of other illnesses, while also having a cleft palate. He had also broken his leg shortly before he died. 

It has also been speculated that the boy-king had died in a chariot accident, largely as parts of his chest wall and ribs were missing. While he was tall, he was physically frail, with a crippling bone disease in his clubbed left foot. He was the only pharaoh shown to have been depicted seated while engaged in such physical activities as archery.

Unlike most mummies, whose hearts were preserved for the afterlife, Tutankhamun has no heart. Instead, he was provided with an amuletic scarab inscribed with a funerary spell. It could be a sign that Tutankhamun died far from home. By the time his body arrived at the undertaker’s workshop, his heart may have been too decayed to be preserved.

Tutankhamun

There were also rumours of a curse afflicting the tomb. Indeed, the locals popularised the notion of the “Curse of the Pharaohs,” claiming that the hieroglyphs on the tomb walls promised swift death to all those who disturbed King Tut. Giving some credibility to this, Carter’s patron, Lord Carnarvon, died four months after first entering the tomb, while a dozen more deaths were later attributed to the curse. 

Despite this, artefacts from the tomb have toured the world in several hugely popular museum shows, including the worldwide 1972-79 “Treasures of Tutankhamun” exhibition. 

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

Read the full version of the article in the February 2023 issue (pg: 116). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.  

Easter Getaways: Get your fill of culture, entertainment and history

The Easter holidays – lurking barely a month away – may just offer stressed out Hongkongers with the perfect opportunity to escape the coronavirus-laden confines of the Fragrant Harbour. Be it a solo trip to explore an ancient city, dancing the night away at Coachella or relaxing with a delicious glass of port in Portugal, here are some of our top recommendations for stress-free Easter getaways.

Istanbul, Turkey

Easter Getaways
Topkapi Palace

A city bustling with a strong historical presence is just one way to describe the Turkish capital city Istanbul. From the exquisite Topkapi Palace – where you can witness the enduring legacy of the Ottoman Empire – to Byzantine highlights like Aya Sofya, Basilica Cistern, Kariye Museum and Hippodrome, these ancient monuments offer an unforgettable experience for any self-confessed history enthusiast. Beyond just its ancient allure, there are some quintessential things that cannot be missed out. For instance, ride the Bosphorus ferries – connecting from the Eminönü district to the Black Sea – to enjoy a view filled with alluring parks, mansions and palaces. Similarly, there are hammams where you can enjoy a warm and soothing Turkish bath to loosen all your muscles – isn’t relaxing one of the main purposes of a vacation. Lastly, make sure to go to Beyoglu at least once – a district known for its best dining and wining options among locals and tourists. 

Toulouse, France

Easter Getaways

Located in the Southwest of France, Toulouse – also known as La Ville Rose (The Pink City) – takes something of a backseat to the more popular Paris. With beautiful pink bricks that give it its aforementioned nickname and colourful flowers blooming around the region, it is an ideal destination for both solo and group travels. The Occitane region’s capital also boasts some of the world’s best museums, cathedrals, monuments. Place du Capitole – the city’s main square, which abuts the city hall as well as the building that houses Salle des Illustres (Hall of the Illustrious) and Vieux Quartier (Old Quarter). The town’s friendly and flat lanes make it safe and easy to skate or cycle around – an activity enjoyed by many tourists and locals. With artistic churches and cathedrals like Basilique St-Sernin, Cathédrale de St-Étienne and Église Notre Dame du Taur, it is a promising destination to celebrate Easter.

Coachella Valley, California

Easter Getaways

What better time to visit California’s Coachella Valley than for Easter, which perfectly coincides with the dates of the art and music festival Coachella. Apart from that, venture onto the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, serving a 360° aerial view of the valley from more than 8,500ft, or try your hand at hiking the Indian Canyon trails, which vary from 1.2 miles to 12.3 miles. For a show-stopping experience, there is the Marvyn’s Magic theatre – described as “world-class entertainment” – to witness some phenomenal shows. Moreover, fauna aficionados will surely love The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens for its numerous interactive experiences, including feeding a giraffe and petting a kraal.

Porto, Portugal

Easter Getaways
Douro River

Porto – an up-and-coming touristic destination that makes the final entry on our list of Easter getaways – is where you can witness the perfect fusion of classic heritage and modern architecture. Known for manufacturing port (a type of fortified wine that takes its name from the national name), lining the banks of the Douro River are countless city’s cellars where you can get a first-hand tasting of this famous beverage. If you’re looking to explore the location’s ancient ruins, Ribeira district – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is well worth a detour, while Oporto’s Casa da Musica’s peculiar geometric construction and the 5D theatre – Look at Porto – let you view and experience Porto in a more contemporary light. Literature buffs, meanwhile, should head to Livraria Lello, a delightful bookshop famed as much for its neo-gothic and magic-inducing aura as its books. Moreover, don’t forget to grab a Francesinha – Porto’s emblematic sandwich.

Jewel Narrative: The extraordinary stories behind the world’s most sought-after gems

Jewels have always been a source of fascination, obsession and intrigue. Precious stones have been the inspiration for heist movies, romance novels and murder mysteries ever since we started putting pen to paper. In the case of these beguiling bedazzlers the truth is even stranger than fiction.

jewel-diamond-Nawanagar

The Nawanagar Necklace

In 1931, Jacques Cartier was commissioned by the Maharajah of Nawanagar to create a necklace formed of two strands of diamonds. Eight weeks later Cartier declared the arrangement “the finest cascade of coloured diamonds in the world”. The illustrious treasure featured seven of the rarest diamonds in the world, including the Ranjitsinhji diamond, and weighed six pounds. It mysteriously disappeared after the Maharajah’s death in 1933 and is presumed to have been broken down into smaller untraceable designs. If that sounds familiar it was also the fate that befell “Le Toussaint”, the fictional necklace which was the target of the grand heist in the movie Ocean’s 8, the design of which was based on this very necklace.

jewel-sapphire-Queensland

The Black Star of Queensland

In the 1930s, a boy called Roy Spencer was playing in a field near Anakie in Queensland Australia. He found a large, heavy greyish stone and carried it home with him, where it was used to prop open the porch door for the next nine years. Once Roy’s miner father Harry clocked that his doorstop might be worth a buck or two, he put it up for sale. It was eventually bought by Armenian jeweller Kazanjian who studied the stone for two months before cutting it. In cutting out the cabochon, Kazanjian lost 423 carats before finally revealing an immaculate six-pointed star within the stone – despite the lost carats, The Black Star remains the second-largest sapphire in the world. The stone now belongs to Swiss Gabrielle Grohe after she purchased it for her then-boyfriend Jack Armstrong. After they split Armstrong tried to claim ownership of the sapphire but couldn’t come up with the cash to buy Grohe out. 

jewel-diamond-moon-baroda-christies

The Moon of Baroda Diamond

Fewer gems can boast a more impressive lineage than the Moon of Baroda, which came from the very same Golconda mine which bore the Koh-I-Noor and the Hope diamonds. From the mine The Moon went to the Gaekwad family, the Maharajas of Baroda, who lent it to the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria for a period. It has been looted by Persian ruler Nadir Shah before being returned to Baroda and lent to Marie Antoinette before being bought by Meyer Rosenbaum in 1943. The diamond was finally cemented in pop culture history when it was lent by Rosenbaum to Marilyn Monroe so she could wear it in the iconic hit Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

But the extraordinary story of The Moon of Baroda is far from over. The pendant is coming up for auction at Christie’s Hong Kong on 27 November. Weighing 24.04 carats the canary yellow stone is estimated to go for a staggering HK$4-6 billion. Fancy!

Text: Alice Duncan