Tag: High jewellery

The sensual dual-appeal of transformable jewellery

Since the early days of the last century, transformable jewellery has been the staple of many of the world’s foremost luxury brands. This has seen such luminaries as Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels create some of the most technically complex items in their long histories.

Boucheron New Maharajah transformable necklace
Boucheron New Maharajah transformable necklace

While popularised in the 20th century, such items first appeared almost 100 years ago, at a time when such inventive jewellery was strictly the province of royalty. With many weighty items worn solely on specific occasions, it fell to a number of regally-approved jewellers to tweak several royal favourites, allowing them to be worn across a variety of different engagements.

Cartier Imperio transformable necklace
Cartier Imperio transformable necklace

This saw items created with mix-and-match reassembly as a fundamental part of the design. It was a conceit that was soon to enter the mainstream. With the aid of clips, clasps and brackets, today’s jewellery-adept buyers can easily transform a large item into several complementary smaller ones, frequently cross-matching them with other styles or marques.

Van Cleef & Arpels ZIP transformable necklace

Given their facility for a chameleon-esque shift from mood to mood, occasion to occasion and role to role, it’s not difficult to see why the contemporary woman has such an affinity with these fluid adornments. After all, what better symbol could there be for her own multi-faceted engagement with the demands of 21st-century life?

Bloomin’ Marvellous: A cornucopia of spring-inspired jewelleries

As cool weather gives way to warmer climes and the seductive scent of spring begins to emerge, it’s time to turn our attention once more to that most consistently alluring of seasonal trends – floral jewellery.

Indeed, Mother Earth has long inspired the leading haute joaillerie maisons of the world, leading to the creation of some truly stunning garden-themed creations – Chopard’s decadent Red Carpet Collection 2021 choker and the Manhattan Party necklace by Bulgari, to name but two.

It would be folly, however, to assume that such flower-inspired jewellery has only recently become in vogue. Indeed, such adornments date back to many ancient civilisations, and have traditionally been worn in such elaborate ceremonies as Indian weddings. More recently, this trend has been adopted by the West, with summer brides opting for veils adorned with floral headpieces in a bohemian chic style.

Today, however, the floral fad is used not just for weddings but for every imaginable occasion, great or small. What’s more, they come in a riot of hues, shapes and sizes, making them just the perfect addition be it to subtly enhance your outfit of the day or grab attention at your chosen soiree.

Also Read: Flower Power: Sparkling high-end jewellery inspired by nature

Flower Power: Sparkling high-end jewellery inspired by nature

Since time immemorial, humans have been enamoured with all things floral. Embraced as symbols of everything from new life and fertility to passion and romance, their natural beauty has entranced and enchanted at every turn. Small wonder, then, that they are a constant, never-ending source of inspiration behind the timeless creations of countless high-end jewellery brands.

Floral Trend 

In fact, so strong is this floral love affair that many iconic marques have actually adopted their own flower emblems. Take, for instance, Dior and Piaget, who have both selected the rose as their blossom of choice and unveiled entire collections dedicated to the thorny blossom. Elsewhere, there’s Chanel and the camellia, Chaumet and the hydrangea, and so forth.

Also read: Rainbow hues in high-end jewellery for the colourful customer

Featuring a startling array of colours, shapes and sizes, this nature-inspired leitmotif is flexible to the extreme. Some flower designs are subtle, demure, and perfectly suited for everyday wear. However, the other end of the spectrum accentuates precision jewellery-making at its very finest, using a smorgasbord of precious and semi-precious gemstones and skilled craftsmanship to portray all the inherent beauty of flowers in truly dazzling style.

 

Also read: Talented Hong Kong jewellery designers you have to checkout

Haute Joaillerie houses embrace stunning rainbow hues in their designs

In contemporary times, the rainbow has come to symbolise hope and new beginnings, so it’s no surprise that haute joaillerie houses the world over have embraced this motif during the current Covid-dominant times. Gone are the days when single-colour styles were in vogue, and in their place are a veritable treasure trove of prismatic designs, pieces that unabashedly embrace a multi-hued appeal.

Subtler creations are imbued with an ombré effect, one that utilises precious gemstones of similar colours to create a graduated look. A prime example of this is the stunning necklace from premium Japanese brand Tasaki’s latest High Jewellery collection, and Tiffany & Co.’s Colors of Nature necklace.

More outré designs that truly reflect the kaleidoscopic nature of rainbows, meanwhile, are also on offer from such luxury labels as Bulgari, with its vivid, gem-studded Multicolore necklace, and Boucheron’s multifaceted ring.

  1. Boucheron ring
  2. Bulgari Multicolore necklace
  3. Piaget Extraordinary Lights earrings
  4. Harry Winston Sparks earrings
  5. Robinson Pelham Synchronicity Rainbow Ray Inner ring
  6. Rosior multicolour earrings
  7. Tasaki High Jewellery necklace
  8. Tiffany & Co. Colors of Nature necklace

 

Ring It In: Attention-grabbing cocktail rings for that special occasion

The Roaring Twenties heralded a time of enormous change, with women of the world over fighting for equality and freedom as never before. Reflecting this changing mindset, the traditional norms of jewellery-wearing were also turned on its head. Replacing the demure designs of yesteryear were a plethora of attention-grabbing creations that were as unapologetically bold as they were beautiful – and none more so than cocktail rings.

  1. Harry Winston Dancing Flames ring
  2. Harry Winston Sweet Heart ring
  3. Chopard Red Carpet Collection 2021
  4. Chanel Collection No.5 Diamond Stopper ring

These items of haute joaillerie first came into being during the US’ Prohibition Era, when trailblazing women attended illegal cocktail parties and soirées dressed to the nines. Jewellery, of course, played its part in announcing the status of a lady, and fashionistas would purposely don large gem-studded rings on the hand they used to sip their illicit tipple of choice. This, unsurprisingly, birthed the term ‘cocktail ring’.

  1. Piaget Extraordinary Lights ring
  2. Chaumet Torsade de Chaumet ring
  3. Van Cleef Arpels Iwamoto ring
  4. Bulgari Ruby Metamrphosis ring

Today, these gorgeous bijouterie may not have the same political significance as during its inception, but they nevertheless remain a surefire method of ensuring you snare any passing gaze. Adorned with oversized diamonds, rubies, sapphires and other precious stones, these conversation starters will never go out of style, be it as unabashed symbols of wealth and power or simply an easy ice-breaker at your next fancy do.

  1. Buccellati Iris ring
  2. Cartier Parhelia ring
  3. De Beers Namib Wonder open ring
  4. Hermès Lignes Sensibles ring

L’Odyssée de Cartier: A haute joaillerie journey 150 years in the making

For over a century and a half, Cartier, the most eminent of high jewellery brands, has wowed the world with its stunningly intricate designs. Now, the maison is inviting its legion of fans to explore L’Odyssée de Cartier, a unique journey into its rich heritage, one that represents a creative dialogue between its past, present and future. Divided into individual chapters, each features a short film that traces the influences that birthed the quintessential Cartier style of today.

L'Odyssée de Cartier - Chapter 1

Chapter One of L’Odyssée de Cartier; explores the rise of Jeanne Toussaint, the legendary French lady and fashion icon who revolutionised contemporary jewellery to be seen as a symbol of fierce independence and intelligence for women everywhere. This trailblazer was also the mastermind who birthed the brand’s now-iconic Panthère emblem.

L'Odyssée de Cartier - Chapter 2

Chapter Two then transports the audiences to Cartier’s historic New Bond Street locale in London, highlighting the unique British influences that have shaped its heritage.

L'Odyssée de Cartier - Chapter 3

Onwards to Chapter Three, and the setting shifts to Russia in an exploration of the stunning Slavic-inspired artistry that birthed such iconic creations as the Garland style and the Ballets Russes.

L'Odyssée de Cartier - Chapter 4

Then the environs change once more in Chapter Four, travelling to the Persian Gulf to showcase the beautiful architecture, symbols and Islamic motifs that have informed Cartier’s signature geometric flair.

Start your own digital L’Odyssée de Cartier journey now by viewing the videos of Chapters One through Four of L’Odyssée de Cartier today at http://www.cartier.hk.

Rubies: Precious stone provenance is key to not being a ruby rube

While diamonds have long been said to be a girl’s best friend, it is the far rarer rubies that are now being seen as true objets de désir, both as alluring scarlet-hued adornments and as coveted collectors’ items.

Chopard Magical Setting ruby & diamond ring

Proving their desirability in the haute joaillerie market, one ring-set ruby– the Maniraja, unearthed from a legendary Myanmarese mine and weighing in at a colossal 13.26 carats – sold for a whopping HK$81.7 million at a Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong a few years ago.

King Fook Jewellery ruby and diamond necklace

While its sky-high price may seem astonishing, it is worth bearing in mind that rubies command the highest per-carat price of any coloured gemstone. In fact, their precise colour is a hugely important factor in their value – the deeper the hue, the more coveted the ruby, with the exact shade of the very finest variety being somewhat unpleasantly likened to “the blood of a freshly-killed pigeon”.

Bina Goenka X Gemfields earrings

More recently, their rarity and the continued growth in demand have led to inferior lab-created alternatives being ever more widely available. Sounding a word of warning in this regard, Elena Basaglia, manager of Gemfields, a London-based gemstone supplier, said: “Lab-created rubies have a very similar look to the natural ones and it is very difficult to differentiate between the two, especially with an untrained eye. As a result, it’s essential to check the provenance of any rubies you may buy. Ideally, purchase only from trusted outlets, allowing you to be sure both that it has been sourced responsibly and that they are of the stated quality.”

Nuò by Cindy Yeung Majestic Collection white gold necklace, earrings and ring

She adds: “Since production began at Gemfields’ operated ruby mine in Mozambique, the supply of responsibly sourced, high-quality rubies has become more dependable, allowing jewellers more freedom to create ruby jewellery, inspiring consumers and meeting the increased demand for these exquisite gemstones.”

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Cartier launches HK debut of all-new COLORATURA collection

Long lauded as one of the pre-eminent purveyors of haute joaillerie designs, luxury label Cartier has raised the bar for high-end bejewelled accessories even higher with the Hong Kong launch of its all-new COLORATURA collection.

Cartier Coloratura Collection 1

Said to be driven by a universal curiosity, the 450 pieces that comprise the new collection have been inspired from all four corners of the globe, be it the vibrant colours of India, the subtle palettes of Japan or the staccato shades of Africa. Heralded as a true celebration of diversity, it offers an expansive array of precious gemstones set in intricate designs that are dynamic, vibrant and a true sensorial exploration and celebration of colour.

Cartier Coloratura Collection 2

To introduce its adoring legion of local fans to its COLORATURA creations, Cartier is hosting a grand exhibition at the ultra-luxury Rosewood Hotel Hong Kong from now until 5 May. The showcase will also afford attendees an opportunity to experience first-hand the precious objects from its Cartier Tradition Collection, Cartier Fine Watchmaking Collection and Panthère de Cartier high jewellery pieces.

What’s more, on the evenings of May 3rd and 4th, Cartier will invite a veritable who’s-who of Hong Kong’s high society to partake in a special viewing of the spectacular COLORATURA collection with not one but two Gala Dinners. To catch a sneak peek of this stunning high jewellery line, check out the video below…

                        

A Touch of Clasp: The bejewelled brooch is back in a big way…

While, for many, the word “brooch” conjures up a rightly-lost world of coy maiden aunts with the most vanilla of embellishments pinned in one corner of a bosom-banishing blouse, this most uncouture of clothing clasps is no longer on its last gasp. Indeed, it has now become something of a badge of honour among the more fashion forward….

Whether set with diamonds or decked with sapphires, the brooch is the jewellery du jour
Whether set with diamonds or decked with sapphires, the brooch is the jewellery du jour

Actress Uma Thurman, for one, was spotted wearing a fine 1948 Cartier diamond peacock specimen at a recent ball, while the Spring/Summer 2018 runways have been awash with Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton variants of this increasingly in-vogue costume adornment. Indeed, whether pinned to a parting, nestling along the neckline or used to judiciously jazz up a jacket, brooches are clearly the jewellery du jour.

It’s an odd turnabout for an item that was initially prized more for its utility than for its aesthetic qualities. Back in the Early Bronze Age for instance, it was an essential asset when it came to locking a loose loincloth in place or reducing the potential for embonpoint embarrassment.

In contemporary couture, though, a time when cold-proofing a codpiece is no longer a priority for many designers, the once-humble brooch has taken its rightful place in the premier league of personal adornments. Let’s now pin our hopes on it staying that way.

Text: Hira Desai

Prohibition-era statement rings make a modern comeback

With its origins dating back to the 1920s, statement rings – or “cocktail rings” as they were more seditiously known – were, initially, less of a finger adornment and more of a handy gesture of Prohibition disapproval that wearers wore to signal their lack of solidarity with the total teetotalness that was imposed across the US from 1920 to 1933. 

Statement rings date back to the Prohibition era
Statement rings, or ‘cocktail rings’, date back to the Prohibition era

At a time when a G&T was seen as the crystal meth of the day, speakeasies – discreet dive bars – were the places to be seen at (except by the authorities) with this judiciously-displayed jewellery a covert sign that the wearer was an off-the-grid quaffer, one of a clandestine crew of high-fashion imbibers.  

Typically sported on the right hand, the cocktail ring was clearly no wedding band and had usually been bought by the bearer herself, a convention that lives on to this day.

Many of the rings boasted an unusually high setting, so as to ensure an unmissable sparkle, something further enhanced by the use of multifaceted stones. Their latter-day descendants range from the bold to the beautiful, taking in bling-worthy conversation starters en route. So, why not pay tribute to the secret society of suave soave lovers of yesteryears with a clandestine commemoration of top-secret tippling at its very finest?

Text: Hira Desai