Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Perfectly encapsulating its tagline, “the future of Swiss watchmaking,” the pioneering horology brand Zenith has a rich history that has shaped its success today mainly due to the futuristic mindset that prevails among its watchmakers.

In fact, the idea for Zenith’s iconic Pilot line emerged back in the late 19th century, even before the first flight, with its founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s belief that humankind would reach the sky one day. With such an outlook and dedication to aviation, the Pilot line was created as one of the first watches for pilots.

Since then Zenith has continued to hold onto this heritage while simultaneously adapting to contemporary trends to launch a series of Pilot watches through the centuries.

Newly added to this line is the Pilot Automatic with two renditions – stainless steel and ceramic – released at the Watches and Wonders 2023. This newly-designed timepiece is complete with a rounded 40mm case with a black opaline dial with luminescent numbers using the Super-LumiNova technology, a flat-top bezel and an angular large-sized crown.

While the stainless steel version is vertically satin-brushed and comes with two interchangeable straps in brown calfskin leather and black cordura-effect rubber, the ceramic ones have a matte finish and are accompanied by a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap. The dial also has the words pilot engraved on it, a word that was trademarked by Zenith in 1904.

The most notable aspect of the new Pilot Automatic is the 6’o clock mark which is replaced by the date and has a bold white dash on top of it to mimic the artificial horizon instrument seen on aeroplanes thus showing off the horologist’s aviation spirit.

Beyond its physical aspects, the watch has a winding mechanism that uses an open and blackened oscillating weight similar to the artificial horizon instrument and boasts an El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement which gives the instrument its 60-hour power reserve when it is wound fully.

Another equally fascinating watch in the Pilot series is the newly-released chronograph timepiece Pilot Big Date Flyback which is embedded with a newly-developed version of the El Primero 3600 calibre, the El Primero 3652 calibre which is particularly made with the pilots’ requirements in mind by including two distinctive features – the big date and the flyback function.

With a dial that is slightly bigger than the Pilot Automatic – precisely 42.5mm, the brand dropped two versions of the Pilot Big Date Flyback also in stainless steel and ceramic. Its watch dial is an ode to the brand’s iconic El Primero Rainbow from 1997 with its bright orange minute and seconds hands and an oversized date display. Similar to the Pilot Automatic, the Big Date Flyback also come with exchangeable watch straps and has a quick-release mechanism too allowing watch wearers to effortlessly change the straps.

In addition to the Pilot collection, Zenith also launched three other unisex watches – Defy Revival Shadow, Defy Skyline Ceramic and Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic – as part of its DEFY Revival line at the Watches and Wonder 2023. The new pieces are a modern revival of the original DEFY model released in 1969.

The Defy Skyline Ceramic, for instance, has a flat top bezel with an octagonal-shaped black ceramic case that gives the watch its bold appeal. The watch’s case and straps – available in rubber and ceramic – are manufactured with metals and alloys that give the watch its unhinged quality which ensures that watch wearers need not worry about scratches or the watch losing its vibrant new look.

In terms of its technical aspects, the gadget is inbuilt with an automatic high-frequency El Primero 3620 manufacture movement and the first-ever 1/10th of a second indicator.

Click here to explore Zenith’s newest watches, launched at the Watches and Wonders 2023.

Watch Mania – Explaining the desire for the watch masterpiece

The recent online acquisition of a remarkable Patek Philippe has caused something of a stir in the watch-collecting community. Fetching US$5,815,300, the watch was the most valuable timepiece ever sold online globally and the most expensive object ever sold online at Christie’s Asia. This astronomical price for a Grand Complications Sky Moon Tourbillon has left some industry insiders wondering how high prices will go.

Buoyed by this massive headliner, the online watch sale at Christie’s Hong Kong in March proved a success with total sales comfortably exceeding US$8 million. Alexandre Bigler, Vice President and Head of Watches at Christie’s Asia Pacific believes this achievement is indicative of a vibrant market for watches across the world. He further opines that the sale cements Hong Kong’s status as an international epicentre for watch collecting.

He also attributed the success to the diverse selection of collectible watches. “Not only did we offer rare timepieces from reputed brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin, but also iconic designs from other highly-sought after brands like Gerald Genta, Andersen, Hublot, A. Lange & Söhne., and Jaeger Le-Coultre.”

But just what is it that drives buyers to collect watches and pay such sky-high prices? Kenneth Or, founder of Hong Kong-based Ken’s Watches, a supplier of new and second-hand premium watches since 2002, says that for some, it is simply a hobby, just like any other pastime that gives pleasure, such as collecting arts or wine or cars or jewels.

But there are also financial motives. “It is now considered to be a kind of investment tool as well,” he notes. “Watches have their own value. A watch not only keeps its value but sometimes its value might also be increased as time passes by. One can enjoy collecting something they love while they know they can always get the money back.”

Or also believes the market is readily accessible for the avid watch lover. “Moreover, the international watch market is very mature nowadays. It is easy and convenient to sell a watch and get the money back,” he adds.

What drives up the value of a watch and makes it collectible depends on numerous factors, according to Or. “It is about the brand, the watch design and style, popularity in the market, production volume, demand in the market, and if there are any stories behind the item. All these criteria support the value of a watch and make it a collectible one.”

Technical complexity
Christie’s Bigler believes the value of some premium watches is derived from their historical significance, reflecting such things as technological advancements and design trends of their time. Some collectors also have an astute appreciation of the painstaking craftsmanship and technical expertise confined to a miniature work of art on the wrist.

As a case in point, he sees the price-busting Patek Philippe watch as one of the revered manufacturer’s most intricate and impressive creations. “ The reference 6002G seems to effortlessly combine immense mechanical complication with amazing aesthetics and readability,” he says.

“This inspirational double-face grand complication with hand-made blue cloisonné and champlevé enamel dial was launched in 2013 to replace the first Sky Moon Tourbillon model, reference 5002, launched in 2001 and formerly the most complicated wristwatch in the world.

“Boasting 12 complications, reference 6002G is housed in an extraordinary sculptural 44mm white-gold case entirely hand-chased and engraved with almost three-dimensional elegant scrolls which takes Patek Philippe’s master craftsmen over 100 hours to achieve,” he says. “In this superlative horological work of art, rare handcraft skills are combined with a mechanical tour-de-force, representing the very highest level of watchmaking and artistry.” Watches such as these will always retain their value. Bugler advises clients to only acquire watches they feel truly passionate about.

Take Your Time to Rediscover the City – A Sensory Journey by the Oriental Watch Company

The Oriental Watch Company launched an advertisement campaign that encourages people to admire Hong Kong around them with four of their senses – sight, aroma, sound, and taste.

Naming the campaign Take Your Time to Rediscover the City, the bespoke horology brand has collaborated with Omelette Digital Agency to release four different videos each targeting a particular sensory organ.

One video titled Take Your Time to Listen has veteran tram driver Captain Luk Wenwei taking the viewers on a tram ride while he asks everyone to set aside their phones and pay close attention to the different sounds that the vehicle makes.

He adds that ding ding which is an onomatopoeia that is commonly associated with transport is not the only thing you can hear. There are other sounds like the coins shaking around in the money box and the tram moving on its tracks.

Another video called Take Your Time to See features Wu Chi-Kai who has been crafting neon lights since he was 18.

While pointing to the radiating beauty of these neon lights, he also reminds people that these lights are not very common as they used to be. Hence, he asks people to observe the city around them and snap a photo whenever they see a neon light as it is definitely something special.

For the tasting video, which is called Take Your Time to Taste, the Oriental Watch Company invited the Tsui brothers of the Milktealogy project who discuss Hong Kong’s buzzing tea culture which is locally referred to as the Cha chaan teng culture.

Then, for aroma, audiences see Jonathan, who co-owns an aromatherapy brand, in the Take Your Time to Smell video.

In this clip, he mentions the different smells people come across in just a single street in the city. He advises everyone to concentrate on the different scents as they can be pretty therapeutic.

This new campaign, which is an extension of the brand’s previous one Take Your Time, strives to bring out the charms of Hong Kong where the watch company gets its roots from.

Click here to learn more.

7 stunning ladies’ watches to buy in 2022

Today, the world of high-end wristwatches is almost predominantly the domain of men, yet it was the fairer sex that should be credited with their actual creation. Up until the 19th century, it was still the norm for gentlemen to carry pocket watches in their jackets, while ladies made do with smaller iterations worn as necklaces, belts or brooches. But then a few intrepid women began wearing timepieces on their wrist as both a time-tracking gadget as well as a fashion accessory, birthing an entire new category of watches.

Time of Your Life 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022_gafencu_watch

Interestingly, the first-ever ladies’ wristwatch dates back to 1810, when Breguet created a pocket watch attached to a bracelet, customised for the Queen of Naples, Caroline Murat. Several decades later, Patek Philippe followed suit, crafting its first wristwatch for Hungary’s Countess Koscowicz. Fast forward to times more contemporary, and these wrist adornments have overtaken pocket watches to become by far the most popular means of keeping time, with ever more women seeking out intricate timepieces that both dazzle the eyes and boast precision engineering under the hood. Below, we highlight seven of the latest crop that deserve special mention.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium
(Price on request)

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 1 Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium-gafencu_watch

First up is Van Cleef & ArpelsLady Arpels Planétarium, part of the maison’s latest Sous Les Étoiles high jewellery collection. Deftly blending the arts of watchmaking and haute joaillerie, this gem-studded creation – which took a staggering 1,370 hours of work to complete – features an array of diamonds, spessartite garnets and coloured sapphires across its acreage. The dial proper, meanwhile, boasts a planetarium in miniature, displaying the real-time orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth and its moon around the Sun.

Rolex Lady-Datejust 28
(Price on request)

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 1 Rolex Lady-datejust 28-gafencu_watch

Another bejewelled statement timepiece is Rolex’s new Lady-Datejust 28. Housed in a 28mm case, every visible inch of this latest iteration is swathed in glistening diamonds, be it the dial, bezel, case or its President bracelet. Powering this sparkling avatar is a Calibre 2236 self-winding mechanical movement, replete with a patented Syloxi silicon hairspring that is ten times the precision of traditional options when exposed to sudden movement.

Vacheronn Constantin Égérie 
HK$505,000

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 1 Vacheron Constantin Egerie_gafencu_watch

Similarly boasting a diamond-studded aesthete are two versions of the Égérie by Vacheron Constantin – one crafted from 18K white gold and the other in 18K 5N pink gold. For both, some 877 shimmering diamonds can be found across its dial and 35mm case, while its fascia has also been given a rather avant-garde rotating date aperture within a sub-dial at 2 o’clock.

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938
HK$392, 200

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 1 Breguet rene de naples 8938_gafencu_watch

Also featuring a rather unusual diamond-set dial in the series is Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8938, whose fascia is oval-shaped rather than circular. The precious stones, in this instance, have been set using the rarefied snow technique, which utilises differently sized gems in order to fully cover the dial and obscure the material underneath. The off-centre hours chapter, meanwhile, can be found at 6 o’clock, and the watch is available in multiple choices of white gold with blue straps or rose gold with orange straps.

Chopard 2021 Happy Sport 33mm
HK$192,727

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 1 Chopard Happy Sport_gafencu_watch

For a more athletic model, there’s Chopard’s 2021 Happy Sport 33mm, replete with the collection’s signature ‘dancing diamonds’ that roam between its dial and sapphire crystal covering. Interestingly, its new 33mm case was created using the golden ratio in relation to its Chopard 09.01-C automatic movement, and is available in the buyer’s choice of Lucent Steel A223, ethical 18K rose gold, a two-tone version and a more luxurious, diamond-studded model.

Blacpain Villeret Quantième Complet
HK$153,500

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 bllacpain villeret quantieme complet-gafencu_watch

Exemplifying the blue-and-white motif, meanwhile, is the 38mm Villeret Quantième Complet from Blancpain. Its all-white dial – encircled by a diamond-set bezel – boasts a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, while the inbuilt annual calendar complication means you can accurately track the day, date and month. Functional yet sophisticated, its flexibility is further enhanced with a choice of five interchangeable straps.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura
HK$688,008

Time of Your Life_ 7 stunning ladies' watches to buy in 2022 jaeger lecoultre rendez-vous dazzling moon lazura-gafencu_watch

Not to be outdone, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also introduced a lunar-inspired creation – the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura. Where Blancpain’s model is all understated elegance, this is an unashamedly outré design made to attract attention. To start, 36 large diamonds and 72 smaller grain-set stones grace its bezel in double-ring formation. Then there’s the deep lapis lazuli dial, graced with a further 68 diamonds ringing a sub-dial at 6 o’clock that houses a delicate star chart and a mother-of-pearl moon phase indicator. Blending haute horology with high-end jewellery-making with true aplomb, this is one statement timepiece that will surely find favour with discerning female collectors.

Seven standout timepieces from the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction

The biennial Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute-horology enthusiasts. Now in its ninth iteration, it was founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charity, the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM). The heartbreaking diagnosis of his five-year-old son, Paul, with the Duchenne strain of the disease inspired Pettavino to champion this worthy cause; Paul succumbed to the condition in 2016 at age 21.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently worthy 70 million euros since its inception), the exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces. This year, the auction featured 53 unique lots crafted by 54 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which go under the gavel in Geneva on 6 November. Here, we highlight seven particular standouts.

F.P. Journe FCC Blue (CHF 4.5 million)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_F.P. Journe FCC Blue

First to the table is F.P. Journe’s unusual FCC Blue, inspired by a conversation with famed US director Francis Ford Coppola, who once asked the watchmaker if it would be possible to tell time using a literal human hand. Seven years later, a mechanical marvel with an automaton-powered blue hand taking place of pride on its open-worked fascia, was born. Each of the five fingers extend or retract to display the hours, while minutes are relayed via a peripheral disc.

David Candaux D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique (CHF 150,000)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_david_candaux_saturno

Another collaborative effort takes the form of the D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique. The joint brainchild of watchmaker David Candaux and contemporary artist Mikki Saturno, this titanium timepiece features a purple bi-planar flying tourbillon at the top of its dazzling dial. The jewel in its crown, however, is undoubtedly the glorious artwork that covers the rest of its face – a miniature design wholly developed and hand-painted by Saturno himself. Interestingly, whether viewed from the front or the rear, the DC7 is among those rare watches that are perfectly symmetrical along the vertical axis.

Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition (CHF 320,000)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_krayon

A similarly artistic dial graces the Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition by Swiss watchmaker Krayon – in this instance, inspired by Impression, Sunrise by noted impressionist painter Claude Monet, albeit in a mosaic style. Underneath the hood beats a hand-wound prototype calibre C030 movement, and in an impressive engineering feat, the 39mm stainless-steel creation can even be adjusted to calculate the sunrise and sunset times of the winning bidder’s chosen locale.

Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch (CHF 200,000)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_jacquet_droz

Yet another multihued creation is on offer from Jacquet Droz – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch. Rather than comprising a single piece of enamel, its kaleidoscopic plique-à-jour dial is actually a composite of multiple differently coloured and shaped cells, all held in place by gold wire cloisons. Housed in an 18K red-gold case, its Jacquet Droz 2625SQ self-winding movement is enticingly visible through its caseback.

Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch (CHF 480,000)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_zenith

Taking the rainbow motif to new heights is the Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch by Zenith. Housing an El Primero 9020 movement, rainbow PVD coats its bridges and watch hands, and the hour markers are burnished in a special rainbow varnish. This unique 46mm sapphire-crystal creation also comes with a special Felipe Pantone watch box autographed by the artist.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch (CHF 620,000)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_MB&F_Panda_Only

Taking inspiration from the fauna of Planet Earth, meanwhile, is independent label MB&F’s HM10 Panda Only Watch, which, as its name implies, boasts a case contoured to mimic the bamboo-eating mammal. Powered by an in-house HM10 calibre movement, the two black eyes are inhabited by aluminium time-displays, while the teeth indicate the power reserve. Its top is coated with black and white lacquer reminiscent of the animal’s fur coat, while a matching strap completes its panda appeal.

Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype (CHF 2.1 million)

collectors at the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction_gafencu_time_watches_richard_mille

Finally, there’s Richard Mille’s RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype. Named after the eponymous F1 racing driver, the timepiece proudly sports his red and white colours, as evidenced by the white and red Quartz TPT case, a proprietary composite materials that is particularly shock resistant. Fitted with a calibre CRMA7 movement and its lightest straps ever, this innovative watch packs a visual punch without ever weighing down the wrist.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction)

Miss Time: The wonder that is the world of women’s watches…

Once, not too long ago, the world of haute horology was dominated solely by masculine designs, with their ‘lesser’ female counterparts at best an afterthought. With the rise of womankind across the workforce – and indeed, in every other aspect of contemporary life – leading watch manufactures have risen to meet growing demand for ever more complex femme-focused timepieces. Of the latest such models on offer, seven in particular deserve special mention.

gafencu miss time women's watches Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding

Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding
The first of these comes in the form of Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918, the latest iteration of a timepiece created in celebration of Napoleon’s younger sister, Caroline Murat. Knowing her to be a long-time admirer of the brand and a haute horological enthusiast, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the original, with its distinctive oval dial, very much in her honour. Burnished with a mother-of-pearl dial, its scarlet-hued appeal stems from its oversized Arabic numeral hour markers, ruby pusher and red alligator leather straps. Adding an extra element of allure are the 117 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn its bezel, with the entire timepiece powered by a self-winding calibre 537/3 movement, clearly visible through its wholly transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

gafencu miss time women's watches Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918

Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918
Another red-dominant watch has comes courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, with its Égérie Self-Winding model similarly fitted with a diamond-studded bezel and red leather straps. In this instance, however, this particular haute horology master has opted to craft the case and hour markers in a lush pink gold, creating quite a contrasting effect. Adding to its appeal, an unusual off-centre subdial – also encircled by glistening diamonds – between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock serves as the date indicator. The Égérie is also available with black straps and in a stainless steel-white gold incarnation.

gafencu miss time women's watches Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models

Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models
For a flexible yet chic everyday option, meanwhile, you could do far worse than check out famed watch manufacture Rolex’s new line of Oyster Perpetual creations. Available in either a 41mm or a more subtle 36mm edition, both come adorned with dials in a veritable array of vivid colours, ranging from black and green to far brighter coral, turquoise blue and candy pink models. All come with the latest Calibre 3230 movement – which was just unveiled last year – as standard, and are rounded out with the brand’s iconic Oyster bracelet.

gafencu miss time women's watches Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition

Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition
Next on our list is a more outré interpretation of the truly femme-focused timepiece – the Joséphine Aigrette from luxury brand Chaumet. With no buckle or clasp to be seen, instead it comes enticingly equipped with an assortment of leather or satin bracelet straps, additions that elegantly grace any wrist. The dial proper, meanwhile, has been crafted in a unique tear-drop shape and imbued with a striking minimalist appeal, with its sole adornments consisting of miniature hour and minute hands, as well, of course, as the brand’s distinguished logo.

gafencu miss time women's watches Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette

Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette
Serving up another stunning creation – albeit one with a starry twist – is haute couture label Hermès’ newly unveiled Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs. Inevitably bringing to mind thoughts of a twinkling night sky, its pale mother-of-pearl dial has been sprinkled with 87 blue sapphires and 68 white diamonds, an adornment that extends to the bezel. Underneath the hood, meanwhile, beats a calibre H1837 self-winding movement, powering a date indicator at 6 o’clock and a beautiful moon phase indicator at the top half of its fascia.

gafencu miss time women's watches Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider
Similarly embodying an off-centre motif is Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition, which marks the first time the maison has offered this grand complication in a smaller 38mm diameter lady-friendly version. A past master at crafting super slim timepieces, Piaget has clearly not skimped on precision engineering this time around either. Sitting pretty on its sunray-engraved mother-of-pearl dial is an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at 2 o’clock, which is mirrored by an hour-and-minute counter that together form a lucky figure ‘8’ and infinity symbol. Limited to a release of just 88 pieces, a diamond-studded bezel completes its elegant appeal.

gafencu miss time women's watches Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs

Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs
For those in search of a true statement piece, our final recommendation – the Excalibur Spider by Roger Dubuis – is truly a must. Crafted in a dazzling collision of high-octane racing lines-meets-haute horology, this avant-garde gold and white creation truly exemplifies cutting-edge watchmaking for women. With a dial punctuated by a star-shaped motif, the jewel in its crown is undeniably its flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, a feature that has elegantly displayed via the clever incorporation of a delightful open-worked aesthetic. Deftly balancing beautiful form with precision-engineered function, it’s sure to appeal to any watch-loving fashionista.

Auto Winders: Check out these latest high-octane car-watch collaborations

Both cars and watches have long had a special place in the hearts of refined gentlemen of means, and with good reason. The two owe their origins to pressing needs for convenience and precision, with each now treasured as epitomising a true fusion of precision engineering and enduring elegance. Given their shared heritage and matching aspirational feel, car-watch partnerships were all but inevitable. Indeed, many such strategic car-watch brand alliances have proved fruitful and long-lived, while yielding some truly stunning designs…

Latest car-watch timepieces

In celebration of its three-decade collaboration with the Mille Miglia race – a 1,600km-long classic car rally held in Italy each year – Chopard has launched the Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition. Here, the requisite tachymetre bezel and chronograph pushers set the rallying tone, while its generous 44mm fascia allows for easy legibility. The self-winding movement, meanwhile, provides ultra-precise time measurements, which are said to be accurate to an eighth of a second. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, perforated leather straps – reminiscent of the texture of driving gloves – complete a truly vintage look.

Car-watch - Chopard's Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition

An equally grand race-inspired timepiece comes courtesy of Bremont, with its historic partnership with Jaguar, a fellow British brand, having culminated in the launch of the limited-edition Jaguar D-type. A knowing homage to Jaguar’s hugely successful D-type – the car that won the gruelling Le Mans 24 Hours race from 1955 to 1957 – the 300bHp of its original engine is given a knowing nod by the fact that just 300 pieces are to be produced. Set on blue racing calf-leather straps, the 43mm blue-dialled bi-compax timepiece features a tachymetre scale, an effective contrast with its brushed nickel sub-dials. Sporty yet sophisticated, its racing pedigree is more than apparent at even the most cursory of glances.

Car-watch - Bremont's Jaguar D-type
Bremont’s Jaguar D-type

Taking a similarly heritage-centric approach is Breitling’s Bentley-channelling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition. Designed to celebrate the motoring marque’s 100th anniversary, the left side of the case bears the same Bentley engraving that graced the dashboard of the iconic 1929 Bentley Blower. With both the stainless steel and rose gold models featuring a white printed tachymetre scale on a unique brown elm burl dial, its classic appeal is undoubtable.

Car-watch - Breitling's Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition
Breitling’s Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition

A more contemporary approach, meanwhile, comes in the memorable form of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, the latest timepiece on offer from Hublot and Ferrari, the self-styled supercar marque. In place of the former’s traditionally angular designs, this flyback chronograph is the very epitome of aerodynamic curvature. Available in titanium, King Gold or 3D Carbon, the watch’s beautifully open-worked fascia proudly displays Ferrari’s famed prancing horse at 12 o’clock, while also highlighting its recessed Calibre UNICO HUB1280 movement. Hybrid black rubber-Schedoni leather straps and a convex case design round out its automotive appeal.

Car-watch - Hublot's Classic Fusion Ferrari GT
Hublot’s Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

In an unusual move, TAG Heuer and Aston Martin have taken the symbiotic nature of car-watch partnerships to a whole new level, with the former’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019 timepiece and the latter’s DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition on offer as one all-inclusive car-watch package. More specifically, the purchase of any of the new sportscars – available in a limited edition of just 50 – will see the lucky owner also walk away with TAG’s latest chronogram. Obviously inspired by the car it namechecks, the marque’s all-new design includes several unambiguously DBS accents, notably its grille-motif hexagonal cut-out fascia and embossed leather straps, while a hint of red detailing adorns its otherwise all-black finish.

Car-watch - TAG Heuer's Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019

Revving proceedings up several gears, avant-garde watchmaker Roger Dubuis has teamed with Lamborghini and tyre brand Pirelli to create its undeniably eclectic Excalibur One-off. Blending the expertise of the three partners in their individual areas of excellence – haute horology, adrenaline-driven performance and precision engineering – this truly superlative chronogram perfectly balances aggressive athleticism with aesthetic appeal. Its delightfully open-worked fascia, meanwhile, reveals its purpose-built RD 106SQ movement, as well as its double flying tourbillon and a jumping hours display at 12 o’clock – all structured to resemble the engine of the Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar that provided the original inspiration.

Car-watch - Roger Dubuis' Excalibur One-off
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur One-off

The most recent members of the car-watch collaborators club – renowned Swiss haute horology house Jacob & Co. and legendary hypercar company Bugatti – though, may just prove to be the most outré. The first fruit of this partnership – the Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition – is nothing short of overwhelming, in terms of both size and complexity. It comes with a decimal repeater as standard, as well as a racing-themed “fuel” power reserve indicator and stunningly intricate dual triple-axis sequential high-speed tourbillons. With each individual watch carrying a price tag of US$500,000, the exclusivity of this 39-piece release is heightened yet more by the fact that it is only purchasable by Bugatti owners.

Car-watch - Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co.
Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Rare 1830 pocket watch by Edouard Bovet up for auction

It’s no secret that China and Hong Kong are the very heartlands of the world of haute horology, home to the keenest collectors and the biggest buyers. How, though, did this fixation with the world’s finest Swiss timepieces begin? The answer is engagingly simple – it’s all down to the bold ventures of one young enterprising precision engineer – Edouard Bovet.

Rare 1830 Edouard Bovet watch fetches top dollar at auction

Back in 1818, Edouard Bovet, a Swiss-born apprentice watchmaker working at London’s Magniac company, was transferred to Guangzhou in a bid to drive the sale of Swiss watches across China. Quickly gauging the size of the potential market, in 1822, he formed his own company – Bovet Fleurier – a luxury watch manufacturer specialising in high-quality timepieces for the Far East market.

The rare Edouard Bovet pocket watch still remains in near-mint condition

Now, one of his hugely-rare watches – an 1830-made Bovet Fleurier centre seconds pocket watch – has come up for sale via the Hong Kong branch of Heritage Auctions. Encased in 18K gold, with figures of Venus and Cupid painted on translucent blue enamel, its near-mint condition is expected to help it fetch staggering figures, if certain horology experts are to be believed.

Closing Time: We bid farewell to some of 2018’s most wonderful watches

From extraordinary extraterrestrial-oriented timepieces to the very nattiest nautical designs, 2018 has been quite a year in the world of high-end horology. With the nights rolling in and with many of us gradually growing befuddled at the thought of the festivities to come, what better than to take a timely trot through the final push of wonderful watches that made the Year of the Dog quite so great? 

2018's final push of wonderful watches
2018’s final push of wonderful watches

With the worlds of marine exploration and fine watchmaking sharing a long and intertwined history, it’s perhaps unsurprising that the tail-end of 2018 saw several renowned chronograph creators once again opt for a maritime motif. Taking point in this timepiece tsunami, of course, was Omega with its updated and upsized (42mm) Seamaster Diver 300M seen as glad tidings for all.

Omega's Seamaster Diver 300M
Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M

Coming with a Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement – one fashioned entirely from non-ferrous materials in a bid to insulate its precision mechanism from any adverse magnetic influences – as standard, it also features an enhanced helium escape valve design, ensuring that it will remain fully waterproof up to 50m down even should the valve open accidentally.

Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown by Breitling
Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown by Breitling

Holding steady on our oceanic overview, the next maritime masterpiece came courtesy of never-less-than-breathtaking Breitling, with the all-new Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown marking the marque’s first collaboration with Outerknown, the California-based sustainable outerwear manufacturer. In addition to its durable, eco-friendly straps, this unashamedly athletic timepiece features a striking DLC-coated black steel case housing a Breitling Calibre 13 mechanical movement. A deep blue dial, complete with Super-Luminova-coated hour and minute hands and a shock-resistant uni-directional bezel, round out its distinctive devil-may-care dive-watch design. 

Tag Heuer's Aquaracer Carbon
Tag Heuer’s Aquaracer Carbon

Never one to be outdone, Tag Heuer’s own oceanic offering is equal parts H2O and 007, with its superspy stylings targetted more at a leisure-minded lagoon liquid luncher than a five-fathoms-down hardy ocean-bed explorer. Despite its aesthetic aspect, the watch – the Aquaracer Carbon – is still guaranteed to be water-resistant to a depth of 300m. With its black PVD-covered titanium case, carbon fibre bezel, fetching ‘carbon effect’ fascia and black textile straps, this is a watch to flaunt rather than to float about with.

Happy Fish by Chopard
Happy Fish by Chopard

In a timely reminder that all things maritime are not a solely male preserve, Chopard, meanwhile, fetchingly fused the very finest attributes of high-end jewellery and haute horology to fashion the limited-edition Happy Fish. With its delightfully dippy designation, its Happy Diamonds twirl atop an elegant deep blue mother-of-pearl dial, bedecked with a coruscating coral fish motif, making this a very savourable slice of ladylike luxury.

Patek Philippe's Twenty~4 Automatic
Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 Automatic

Another traditionally macho marque looking to pique the interest of the burgeoning number of women watch collectors is Patek Philippe, with the latest expression of its iconic Twenty~4 model – the all-new Twenty~4 Automatic – said to be the first-ever diamond-set steel model manufactured with the madame in mind. In another first, this classic 36mm timepiece comes fitted with a self-winding movement, a sweeping second hand and a dominant date aperture at 6 o’clock. With a staggering 208 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds gracing its bezel and lugs, this is one clear statement accessory.

Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days by IWC
Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days by IWC

For the more manly collectors on the lookout for a classic design, the latest iteration of IWC’s Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days surely merits serious consideration. For this decidedly regal revamp, the signature Portofino look has been refreshed with a slate grey fascia, which pairs compellingly with the brand’s debuting grey-suede straps. Undoubtedly the biggest plus though is its 59210 calibre movement, which twinkles enticingly beneath the transparent sapphire crystal caseback even as it delivers pin-point precision for up to eight days. 

Parrot Minute Repeater pocket watch by Jaquet Droz
Parrot Minute Repeater pocket watch by Jaquet Droz

For a truly vintage look, though, discerning wanters of wonderful watches should check out Jaquet Droz’s new Parrot Minute Repeater. Exquisitely crafted in commemoration of the watchmaker’s 280th anniversary, this one-of-a-kind adornment boasts the brand’s signature Bird Repeater automaton in the form of gloriously-bejewelled macaws perched on its cover, both of which chirp and chime while winding. Blending time-honoured horological artisanship, including enamel inlaying and exquisite gemwork, with cutting-edge precision engineering, this peerless package has a US$1 million price tag – irresistible, though, if you want to end the year in true style.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

 

Salon de TE: Haute horological highlights from HK’s premier watch show

If the watch lover in your life was a little more on edge than normal last month, it could just be that they were a trifle agog at the prospect of HKTDC’s Salon de TE winding its way back into town. Such anticipation would be entirely understandable given that this sixth iteration of Hong Kong’s premier showcase for all things haute horological welcomed 140 of the world’s leading watch brands, all keen to parade their wares across the event’s four-day run.

Highlights from Salon de TE

For 2018, the Salon de TE showfloor was divided into four themed zones – Chic & Trendy, Renaissance Moment, Wearable Tech and, the centrepiece of the entire event, the World Brand Piazza, with the latter once again sponsored by Prince Jewellery & Watch. It was the Piazza, of course, that was the first port of call for all the most clued-up chronophiles.

Grande Seconde Tribute by Jaquet Droz
Grande Seconde Tribute by Jaquet Droz

One of the first things likely to have caught their eye was the Grande Seconde Tribute, Jaquet Droz’s ode to minimalism and classical design. In a knowing nod to one of the marque’s classic pocket watches of yesteryear, its hour-and-minute dial encompasses the upper half of its Grand Feu enamel fascia, while a larger seconds counter dwells below. Available in a limited edition of just 88 pieces, this is a future collectors’ item in waiting.

Senator Cosmopolite by Glashutte Original
Senator Cosmopolite by Glashutte Original

Another marked move towards minimalism at Salon de TE came courtesy of Glashütte Original in the form of its newly-available Senator Cosmopolite. With a diameter of 44mm, it’s not a small watch. Yet, despite the expansive acreage, its matte white dial remains engagingly uncomplicated, while still being home to an intriguing combination of complications. The most engaging of these is, arguably, its facility to gauge your transit duration across 36 individual time zones.

The Sextant by Juvenia
The Sextant by Juvenia

Less jet-setting and more maritimely was Juvenia’s latest retooling of The Sextant, a timepiece that made its global debut back in the 1940s. The latest incarnation of this most iconic of watches sees it upsized from 34mm to 40mm and housed in an eye-catching rose gold case. As ever, its most endearing aspect remains its miniaturised dial-mounted sextant, cunningly reinvented as bespoke hour, minute and second hands.

Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P by Piaget
Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P by Piaget

Salon de TE was also notable for the number of debuting timepieces that eschewed traditional dials in favour of open-worked fascias. Pre-eminent among these was Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P – the very last word in ultra-thin wrist regalia. The total depth of its face, movement and case weighs in at just 4.3mm.

Vanguard S6 Yachting by Franck Muller
Vanguard S6 Yachting by Franck Muller

Never one be outdone, Franck Muller’s Vanguard S6 Yachting could be inadequately summed up as open-face styling-meets-open-sea readiness. This, of course, would not do justice to its fetching compass motifs, ocean-blue skeletonised dial and 18K rose gold Cintrée Curvex case.

For its own dalliance with all things dial-less, Zenith chose to showcase its precision engineering prowess in the Defy Zero G, the perfect platform for its proprietary Gravity Control gyroscopic mount technology – a fiendishly innovative system that ensures the movement stays ever horizontal, negating the effects of gravity and delivering timekeeping of a seldom-sustained accuracy. Complex, yet avant garde, it’s unthinkable that any sector save haute horology could sponsor such a precept.

Defy Zero G by Zenith
Defy Zero G by Zenith

Perhaps the most visually striking piece on display at Salon de TE, though, was Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia Solar Planets. Not content with mere earthly glory, the venerable Swiss marque set its sights on winning the space race by transforming this timepiece’s dial into a self-contained solar system.

Astronomia Solar Planets by Jacob & Co.
Astronomia Solar Planets by Jacob & Co.

Mounted on a fastidiously fashioned differential gear system, the hour-and-minute dial (together with a bejewelled mini-Earth and seven precious stone planets) all rotate around a central 1.5 carat citrine sun. Coming complete – but, of course – with a gravitational double-axis tourbillon, this out-of-this-world wristwatch is the finest fusion of haute joaillerie and high-end horology you are likely to find on any class M planet.

From the masterfully minimalist to the intergalactically innovative, this year’s Salon de TE offered visitors an illuminating introduction to all the very finest in the world of contemporary chronometers. Should you have been foolhardy enough to have failed to pop in, take heart from the fact that the 2019 event is but 11 months away. Perhaps best make a note.

Text: Tenzing Thondup