Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.

Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.

Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.

Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.

Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.

By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.

Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.

Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.

Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser & Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.

Also Read: Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Even though they seem the very epitome of contemporary design, skeletonised dials have been around for centuries. Indeed, they date back to the eighteenth century when André Charles Caron – clockmaker to King Louis XV of France – first eschewed all the window dressings of a timepiece to afford clear views of the intricate machinery beneath. Since then, the open-worked aesthetic has charmed haute horology enthusiasts the world over, be it to exemplify a minimalist theme or spotlight avant-garde stylings. Below, we highlight seven superlative new examples of this transparent motif.

Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu cartier

First up is Cartier’s 100-piece Privé Tank Chinoise, the latest avatar of the iconic design first launched exactly a century ago in 1922. As its name suggests, it embodies a distinct Oriental allure. Ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and housed in a platinum case, its fascia is dominated by vertical and horizontal bars inspired by the traditional architecture of ancient Chinese temples. Peeking out beneath these stripes are the inner workings of the brand’s new 9627 MC manual-winding movement, the elaborate stylings of which can be better viewed through its transparent caseback.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu h moser & cie

Next to the table is the ultra sleek Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton from Swiss manufacture H. Moser & Cie. Blending minimalism and extravagance in equal measure, graceful anthracite PVD-finished bridges hold the hour-and-minute Funky Blue fumé domed subdial at 12 o’clock, contrasted beautifully with the timepiece’s pièce de résistance – a one-minute flying tourbillon – on the bottom half of its fascia. Visible underneath is the automatic calibre HMC 811 movement, which churns out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu montblanc

From Hamburg-headquartered Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58. Available in a limited release of 58 pieces, this blue-on-steel creation pays tribute to the maison’s historic Minerva manufacture – a famed watchmaking facility known for its specialisation in precision-engineered chronographs and folded into the brand in 2006 – by ‘unveiling’ one of its handmade movements beneath its open-worked dial, in this instance, the MB 16.29 calibre. The traditional transparent caseback, meanwhile, has been replaced with a beautiful engraved relief of the aforementioned Villeret factory.

Piaget Polo Skeleton

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu piaget

For a more slimmed down finish, though, look no further than Piaget’s latest Polo Skeleton. Unsurprisingly for a label that holds several records in crafting hyper-thin designs, its latest offering boasts one of the world’s thinnest mechanical movements: the skeletonised 1200S1, which measures a scant 2.4mm. Injecting an element of sparkle to proceedings, its 42mm white gold case is graced with a staggering 1747 brilliant-cut diamonds across its dial, bezel, case and bracelet. Deftly fusing high-end watchmaking with haute joaillerie know-how in one attractive package, this is a timepiece that will surely ensnare any passing gaze.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu chopard luc

Opting for a wholly transparent aesthetic, meanwhile, is Chopard’s new LUC Full Strike Sapphire. To fully enhance the chiming function of this minute repeater watch, its entire case has been fashioned from a translucent sapphire case, with its crystal gongs similarly crafted from that same material. At the heart of its skeletonised fascia beats the 533-part calibre LUC 08.01-L movement that boasts five new patents to achieve the clarity of its sounding of the hours, quarters and minutes.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu roger dubuis

A more outré example of the open-worked motif comes courtesy of Roger DubuisExcalibur Monobalancier EX0953, whose sharp geometric lines and sand-blasted finishing gives it an almost industrial appeal. Housed in a 42mm Eon gold case ringed with 60 round-cut diamonds, it affords direct views of the RD 720SQ calibre movement underneath. The ruby accents of the mechanism, meanwhile, are perfectly accentuated with purple calf-leather straps.

Rebellion T-500 Titanium

Bare-faced Glory The timeless allure of skeletonised dials watches gafencu rebellion t500 titanium

The final entrant on our list is none other than the T-500 Titanium by Swiss watchmaker Rebellion. Exuding an undeniable avant-garde aura, this rectangular timepiece’s see-through dial perfectly displays its unusual timekeeping mechanism. Under the curved sapphire dome, the 380-part manual winding vertical movement and six barrels that charge its jaw-dropping 420-hour energy reserve is on full display. Further underscoring its race car-esque appeal, the traditional hour-and-minute indicators have been eschewed in favour of two parallel rollers at the centre of its fascia. Available in the buyer’s choice of blue, red, orange, green or black, it’s the perfect choice for watch enthusiasts enamoured with a bit of experimental horology.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Prime Time: The best watches from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve

For some 20 years now, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) has been seen as one of the world’s preeminent haute horology events. Dedicated to celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art around the world, its annual awards presentation spotlights the most stunningly innovative and precision-engineered timepieces created by both major brands and independent manufacturers. This year, for the first time, a new body – the GPHG Academy, an assembly of 350 key watch industry specialists – determined the winners. In all, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with seven of the most outstanding showcased below… 

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine piaget Altiplano ultimate concept

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prize

Taking home this year’s top prize, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept was the product of six long years of development by the brand’s in-house Research and Innovation division. Just 2mm deep, it is said to be the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. In order to facilitate its super-slim design, its case and movement have been merged into one, alongside an integrated winding crown and ultra-thin sapphire crystal. Turning traditional watchmaking conventions completely on their head, Piaget eschewed the use of gold in favour of a new, doubly strong cobalt-based alloy for specific machine components. It also crafted a lightweight mainspring barrel and created a patented ‘staggered’ winding stem as a means of accommodating the dial’s off-centre position.

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine charles girardier's tourbillon signature mysterieuse fleur de sel

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

Embodying undeniable beauty and mechanical creativity, Charles Girardier’s Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse <<fleur de sel>> was the clear winner in the Ladies’ Complication Watch category. A welcome addition to the ever-burgeoning ranks of complex femme-focused timepieces, its blue enamel dial comes punctuated with a diamond-studded tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an intriguing rotating automaton burnished with the brand’s emblem at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a CG1809 calibre self-winding mechanical movement, complete with a 46-hour power reserve. 

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine greubel forsey's hand made 1

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

Snapping up the Men’s Complication Watch Prize is Swiss haute horology label Greubel Forsey’s aptly-named Hand Made 1. Intriguingly, 95 percent of the wristwatch – including the hairspring – was made solely by hand-operated tools, with each unit requiring some 6,000 hours of work to complete. Featuring an almost industrial aesthetic, its open-worked dial is entirely unblemished, save for the hour and minute hands and an attention-grabbing tourbillon, with the words ‘HAND MADE’ proudly emblazoned at the 6 o’clock mark.

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine ferdinand berthoud's fb 2re.2

Chronometry Watch Prize

Taking home the Chronometry Watch Prize for the second year running was Ferdinand Berthoud, this time around with its FB 2RE.2. Supposedly inspired by the Marine Clock No.6 (crafted in 1768 by the legendary French watchmaker who gave the brand its name), its technically superlative design boasts an original movement that combines the fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir powering the deadbeat seconds display on its enamel dial. Available in 18K white gold or yellow gold, both iterations of this rare chronograph are limited to just 10 pieces.

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine vecheron constantin's overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton, the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize, meanwhile, is a fine tribute to the brand’s renowned expertise in crafting the most intricate of ultra-thin wristwatches. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, its skeleton dial features a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar – one that requires no adjustment until 1 March 2100 – all powered by a cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. 

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine parmigiani fleurier's hijri perpetual calendar

Innovation Prize

Injecting a welcome dash of Islamic culture to proceedings was the Innovation Watch Prize winner  – the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, which came courtesy of luxury Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier. Rather than relying on the Gregorian calendar commonly used for crafting perpetual calendar complications, this innovative take on the  technology is, instead, derived from the Hijri (the Islamic lunar calendar) – something of a first in terms of the marque’s wristwatch output. Housed in a platinum case, its slate dial is further embellished by all-Arabic moonphase, hour, minute, date and month all indicators.

Prime Time The best watches from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve gafencu magazine h. moser & cie's endeavour cylindrical tourbillon h. moser & cie x MB&F

Audacity Prize 2020

Completing our round-up of the best of the best GHPG winners is Schaffhausen-headquartered H. Moser & Cie, with its Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F finding much-deserved success in the Audacity category. Designed in partnership with MB&F, this outré wrist adornment is fronted by a fume (or gradated) dial tilted at 40 degrees under a sapphire crystal dome at 6 o’clock. The top of its blue-to-black fascia, meanwhile, is burnished with a one-minute flying tourbillon.

Hammer Time: One-off watches hit HK before Only Watch Charity Auction

Unique luxury timepieces were displayed in Hong Kong before heading to the Only Watch Charity Auction. Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad, dissects eight of the best ones.

Only Watch has become a much anticipated fixture of the high watchmaking scene. Taking place every two years, 2017 plays host to the seventh edition since Luc Pettavino called this auction to life in support of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM), which battles the rare Duchenne strain of the disease. Pettavino’s son, Paul, who died from the condition last year at the age of 21, inspired the former to take up the charitable cause.

Collectors will find rarities here that can be had nowhere else and, better yet, all proceeds go toward research for this neuromuscular disease. Over the course of six auctions in 12 years, Pettavino has raised more than HK$235 million for the cause. For brands big and small alike, the publicity that comes along with the world tour preceding the auction makes it worth every cent to donate a specially-made, one-off watch.

Immediately following the world tour exhibiting the pieces, which hits Hong Kong 23-24 October, the auction will take place on 11 November in Geneva under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. Here are eight highlights from the auction suiting a cross-section of tastes – each watch unique in its own right.

Patek Philippe’s Reference 5208T-010 is an obvious investor’s choice. With its chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar and minute repeater, it’s an extremely collectable watch that’s likely to increase in value over the years – especially as it has a titanium case, a metal rarely used at Patek Philippe.

With a high estimate of more than HK$8 million, this is the auction’s top lot, and it comes with a complimentary visit to the workshops plus a private lunch with Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern.

If you’re looking for artistic merit, the titanium-encased Armin Strom Manual Hunt Slonem Edition for Only Watch is a perfect fusion of art and mechanical excellence. New York artist Hunt Slonem – best known for his Neo-Expressionist practice – has decorated the watch front with references to his critically-acclaimed series of rabbit paintings using a transfer process.

In addition to this watch, the winning bidder will receive a hand-signed original artwork from the artist entitled Rex – a 46cm by 31cm oil painting created using metal pigmented paint. High estimates surpass HK$150,600.

The minimalist, however, would be drawn to H. Moser & Cie’s Venturer Concept Only Watch – the ideal acquisition for lovers of simple yet striking pieces (high estimate: HK$240,200).

The finely finished, manually wound movement features a funky red balance bridge and an unusual red fumé dial – subtle references to the flag of Monaco, the birthplace of this auction and the home of AMM.

Offering a taste of the rare and unique is Fabergé’s Visionnaire Chronograph, presented in a sporty black and yellow outfit called “If life gives you lemons” (DLC-treated titanium).

Expected to sell for up to HK$383,000, this is a chronograph like no other. It’s able to provide both time and chronograph measurements using only hands that extend from the centre of the dial thanks to an innovative automatic movement by Agenhor.

Sure to put a smile on your face, the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatiente Only Watch Edition (high estimate: HK$448,200) incorporates the whimsy of a novel complication in the “impatient” countdown hour, but does so in masculine grey titanium. The latter aspect is surprising, considering that the French powerhouse rarely utilises the high-tech metal to house its timepieces.

The Laurent Ferrier x Urwerk Arpal One LF-UR1 (high estimate: HK$570,450) offers an opportunity to own a unique watch borne out of a collaboration between two brands with styles on opposite ends of the spectrum. This timepiece doubles the fun with its wandering hours, sand-blasted satellites and exclusive polished alloy called ARPAL+ (specifically developed for this unique watch), making it a visceral feast for the senses.

For lovers of rare semi-precious stones, Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Off-Centered Cuprite could be just the ticket with its minimalist dial crafted in ultra-rare cuprite, an oxide mineral with a vibrant red hue that gives away its origin as a minor ore of copper.

It is combined with red gold hands and subdial outlines matching the precious metal case for an overall graceful and unique appearance. In contrast, the watch’s high-tech mechanical movement with silicon balance spring can be viewed from the back. Its high estimate comes in at HK$330,600.

Our last timepiece is a treat for fashionistas everywhere: the Chanel J12-XS (high estimate: HK$366,700). Crafted in white gold, black ceramic and onyx with baguette-cut diamonds and embroidered calfskin, it is effortlessly chic. As the cherry on top, the winning bidder will be granted passage to Chanel’s ready-to-wear fashion show in March 2018.

Haven’t found your dream watch yet? Discover all 50 timepieces at www.onlywatch.com. Each and every piece was either specifically made for this auction, or is a one-off version of an iconic model.

Text: Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad

The Only Watch Charity Auction will be held on Saturday, 11 November at 2:30pm (Geneva time).