Even as we remain gripped in the throes of an ongoing pandemic, the high-fashion houses around the world have bravely marched on, presenting enchantingly elaborate new collections to herald the arrival of warmer days. A refreshing breather from the presiding gloom, these latest lines are awash with bold prints, dazzling colours and stunning silhouettes that are playful and hopeful in equal measure.
Balenciaga
In a true study of silhouettes, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia juxtaposes form-fitting numbers – think skintight leotards and thigh-high leather boots – with a gamut of airy, ruffled ensembles, be it a black ballgown or a shimmering Space Age dress. Clever colour choices also enhance the visual playfulness of the collection, while beautiful beadwork and thoughtfully appointed accessories lift the overall appeal to a new level.
Bottega Veneta
Stripes, shimmering sequins and splashes of colour herald the arrival of spring at Bottega Veneta. Puffer jackets are still in evidence to ward off the last remnants of winter chill, but are outsmarted by fun, skin-baring creations in verdant green and pretty purple. Sexy and svelte yet eminently accessible, there are pieces here for every occasion, be it a sporty day out, an afternoon tea party or a fancy evening soirée.
Burberry
“Because of the way women have had to fight, there’s a lot of masculinity going on. Now, it feels like women are being sexy again,” notes Burberry Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci. And in response, his SS22 collection has refocused the sartorial lens on the instinctive attraction of animal prints and playful patterns. This lighter, rawer mood also translates to an array of cut-out creations, skintight silhouettes and sheer separates that embrace sensuality at every turn.
Chanel
Undeniable joie de vivre imbues Chanel’s latest womenswear catwalk show. Much of the line embodies beach chic, with plenty of bikini bottoms, bralettes and skimpy shorts. Elsewhere, the brand’s iconic suits are also on prominent display, albeit with a summery, high-hemline twist, while sheer, breezy tops and gowns impart a flirtatious twist to the collection. Bright and fun without skimping on an iota of style, these ensembles perfectly capture the playful spirit of the season.
Dior
Gone are the airy kaftans and Bedouin-inspired turbans of yesteryear, and in their place this season are edgier, bolder garments informed by a distinct punk rock motif. Here, monochromatic tops in neon yellow, blue and orange are interspersed with boldly patterned bralettes, skirts and jackets for a powerful visual punch. Then there’s the requisite all-leather ensemble and a fluorescent pink-on-black boxer uniform embodying a distinct streetwear ambience.
Dolce & Gabbana
Women who dare to bare will love the latest offerings from Dolce & Gabbana. Featuring bold animal prints, dazzling colours and a whole host of lingerie-esque numbers, this is one collection that does not shy away from showing some skin. Oversized shoulders, shimmering sequins, lacy shirts and see-through silhouettes are also proudly on display, entrancingly enveloping the female form while revealing just enough to leave you wanting more…
Etro
Sleek club couture and ’60s hippie chic collide in spectacular fashion under the discerning eye of Womenswear Creative Director Veronica Etro this spring/summer season. Embracing a more casual vibe are flowing, open kaftans and prismatic paisley prints, contrasted by bolder numbers such as sexy thigh-slit maxi skirts and a wide array of bosom-baring, barely-there bralettes. Unapologetically brazon, flirtatiously feminine, you’re free to bare what you dare.
Fendi
Reflecting a central motif of movement, Fendi’s newest collection stands as a tribute to the multifaceted forms of the modern woman. Simple monochromatic ensembles are elevated with skin-baring cut-outs, rigidly structured lines or flowing fabrics that swish around the silhouette. Elsewhere, the brand’s more colourful creations – ranging from pale pastels to bold neon hues – add a welcome visual pop to proceedings.
Giorgio Armani
An ethereal aura permeated Giorgio Armani’s SS22 catwalk show. Sweeping see-through dresses burnished in pretty pastels call to mind ephemeral fairies, while swishy balloon trousers and cropped tops are reminiscent of Middle Eastern genies. Disrupting this otherworldly vibe, meanwhile, are more structured pieces, ranging from a rigidly constructed pink-on-white suit set to a more sombre black-and-white ensemble.
Givenchy
For his debut haute couture collection as Givenchy’s Creative Director Matthew Williams channelled a ’40s-inspired silhouette. Think tucked-in waistlines, sculpted shoulders, column dresses and an eruption of ruffles. A ready-to-wear collaboration with New York-based artist Josh Smith, meanwhile, yields interesting imagery, including strange balloon smiley faces gracing ripped leggings topped by an eye-popping printed shirt.
Gucci
As Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele readily admits, he once had dreams of becoming a costume designer. Hence, his latest seasonal line pays homage to the fantastical garments of Hollywood films. Running the gamut from Space Age creations – shimmering silvery fabrics made into suits or glamorous ballgowns – to sexy, sweeping dresses that exemplify effortless boudoir chic, its outré impact is undeniable.
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Hermès
Pondering how women will eventually emerge in the post-pandemic world, Hermès Creative Director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski deftly balances comfort and practicality with a subtle sensuality for her SS22 collection. Crafted with the maison’s signature attention to detail, relaxed bralette-and-drawstring trouser combos are juxtaposed with more rigidly structured dresses and coats that evoke an aura of casual elegance.
Loewe
Even the most cursory of glances reveals that geometric experimentation and interpretation are the key motifs of Loewe’s latest Spring / Summer creations. Emphasising a three-dimensional silhouette, strongly structured metallic corsets and protruding waistlines war for attention with flowering cowls and swaying shawls and gowns. The use of a riot of textures and prismatic colours heightens this overall effect for good measure.
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Louis Vuitton
Designed to be ‘le grand bal of time’, Louis Vuitton delves into the past and pays tribute to the evolving nature of fashion across time in its SS22 line-up. From 19th-century-inspired, elaborately embellished hip-girded gowns to the sexy, sequined dress that recalls the Roaring Twenties to oversized blazers and cropped baggy shorts of ’90s streetwear chic, it’s a magical journey through the sartorial styles of yesteryear.
Saint Laurent
Svelte and sophisticated for the spring and summer seasons, Saint Laurent embraces the warmer weather with an array of sexy styles. Drawing attention firmly to the chest, peek-a-boo bralettes and bosom-baring numbers dominate. In contrast to these figure-hugging creations are rigid shoulders and formal blazers informed by the tenets of masculine tailoring, and crafted with the boldly feminine, confident modern woman in mind.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Transporting audiences to a remote desertscape, Design Director Guillaume Meilland’s debut womenswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo is rife with sleek turbans, flowing fabrics and voluminous silhouettes. Featuring a subtle palette of white, brown, black and beige, this muted line focuses all attention on the superb detailing of the garments on display, be it navel-baring fabric twists or fluttering fringes on pencil skirts.
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Stella McCartney
Embracing spring in all its blooming glory, Stella McCartney’s newest offerings are a joyous celebration of fresh colours. From a neon blue leotard paired with an olive trench to a ruffled lime jumpsuit with geometric prints, outré is truly the name of the game. Elevating proceedings further is a treasure trove of textural fabrics – shiny sequins, green mesh, bold ruffles – that provides a deft showcase of McCartney’s designer know-how.
Valentino
Instead of a singular theme, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli focuses on ‘making a shift, embracing a new generation, a new world’ this season. So, his creations are as broad as can be imaginable for a single collection. Sexy fluorescent mini-dresses embody nightclub chic, while bralette/skirt combos serve as perfect poolside pieces. Continuing this disparate motif, casual cowls and denim separates rub shoulders with ethereal, flowing gowns. In short, there’s something for every fashionista…
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