Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.

Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.

Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.

Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.

Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.

By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.

Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.

Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.

Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser & Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.

Also Read: Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

When it was invented in the twilight years of the 18th century, the tourbillon was lauded as a revolutionary piece of horological engineering. Created to turn the escapement and balance wheel continuously within a rotating cage, it negated the effects of gravity on the commonly worn pocket watches of the era and thus ensured the heightened precision of the timepiece.

Today, with wristwatches now dominant, tourbillons are no longer critical to maintaining timekeeping precision. Yet, they continue to grace high-end wrist adornments as a testament to a watchmaker’s skilled craftsmanship. Here, we highlight seven recent creations that have eye-catchingly incorporated this mechanical marvel.

1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

First is Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A stunning ode to fine watchmaking, this statement timepiece features a staggering 16 complications, including calendar and astronomical indications as well as a minute repeater. The tourbillon proper takes pride of place at six o’clock on the front dial, while sidereal time is displayed at the back. The 47mm case is also etched with intertwining grapes and vines as a tribute to the Roman god of wine.

2.Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition

Another prime example of haute-horological skill comes courtesy of Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition. Based on the prize-winning La Esmeralda pocket watch that debuted at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, its blue enamel dial similarly features three dominant gold bridges, with the tourbillon positioned at the bottom. The equine inspiration of yesteryear has also been revived in this 18-piece limited edition, with two hand-engraved galloping horses straddling the dial. A further three horses punctuate the blue enamel caseback, which opens to reveal the GP09600-1506 self-winding movement underneath.

3.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked

For a more streamlined – though no less mechanically impressive – design, look no further than Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked. Produced to mark the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this 41mm stainless-steel timepiece is burnished with the brand’s first self-winding flying tourbillon open-worked movement – the Calibre 2972 – showed off to perfection by its skeletonised motif. Eschewing any unnecessary elements, it boasts an almost industrial appeal.

4.Bulgari Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon

Similarly boasting an open-worked aesthetic – though with a sleek blue on platinum and white gold vibe – is Bulgari’s Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon. Visible beneath its fascia is the hand-wound calibre BVL428 movement, replete with a tourbillon minute repeater whose chiming is the product of three hammers and gongs. In a smart move, the grille-like accents on its dial are designed to have as few obstructions as possible in order to allow clear passage of sound from within.

5. MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra

Bulgari also teamed up with renowned independent label MB&F to create the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra. Blending high-end horology with haute joaillerie, this opulent design – available in white or red gold and limited to 20 pieces each – sees the eponymous flying tourbillon take centre stage beneath a distinctive domed dial. The pavéd diamond hour-and-minute subdial, meanwhile, is propped against it at a slant. Almost every visible inch of this bejewelled creation is carpeted with gemstones, as the likes of topaz, amethyst, tsavorite and tourmaline punctuate the plentiful diamonds.

6. Bovet Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN

Another exquisite limited-edition wrist implement is Fleurier-based Bovet’s Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN – the reimagining and the abbreviations involve a grade 5 titanium case coated in black Diamond Like Carbon. Its fascia features two subdials (a 10-day power reserve indicator on the left and another with a date aperture and model number on the right), while the tourbillon is visible at six o’clock. Just eight pieces each of six colourways – blue, salmon, turquoise, violet, green or yellow – will be made.

7. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon

Rounding out our list of top tourbillon designs is Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon – a collaboration with French graffiti artist Gully. Here, his interpretation of the Excalibur Monotourbillon’s iconic star motif is evidenced by abstract angular accents, some in a riot of colourful accents. It’s a deft touch, as the multihued touches also spell out his name, with the ‘U’ neatly ringing the tourbillon in question. Adroitly fusing haute horologerie with street art, this outré timepiece playfully explores new bounds of watchmaking without ever once skimping on precision engineering.

Inner Vision: Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces

As true watch enthusiasts already know, the movements of any high-end timepiece are paragons of precision engineering, painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate parts to produce a mechanism far greater than the sum of its parts. Unlike most of wristwatch history, the past few decades have seen the rise of an enticingly open-worked aesthetic – that of the transparent skeleton dial. The mechanical wonders of these intricately-designed movements are no longer hidden beneath the dazzling dials that draw the eyes.

Below, we highlight seven latest models that merit your full attention.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches — PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition by Glashütte Original

First to the table is Glashütte Original’s all-new PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition. Part of a 25-piece limited release, this particular iteration features a platinum case and a stunning hand-engraved dial with an off-centre small-seconds subdial boasting skeletonised hour and minute hands, an elegant moon phase indicator and a beautiful flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the automatic Calibre 93-12 movement’s off-centre skeletonised rotor, an oscillating mass crafted from 21K gold. Emblazoned across a screw-mounted stainless steel plaque are the words “Flying Tourbillon”.

Another stunning skeleton design comes from high-end marque Piaget in the form of its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. As to be expected, the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this new creation measures just 2mm in depth. In spite of its minimal footprint, this mechanical standout comprises 167 individual components. Due to space constraints, the traditional hour-and-minute dial has been innovatively reworked and placed under the bridge. Here, the hour hand has been replaced with an off-centre rotating disc, while the minute hand works in the usual way.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (3) — HYT’s H5 Red

A more outré open-worked design comes from independent watchmaker HYT’s new H5 Red. Combining art, precision mechanical engineering and the brand’s signature fluid technology – which uses liquids flowing through ultra-thin capillaries to portray time – this limited-edition release has been burnished with an eye-catching red motif. Beneath its domed sapphire crystal case of this mammoth 48.8mm creation lies the skeleton dial, enticingly ringed red fluidic hour markers. Perforated red rubber straps complete its avant-garde appeal.

Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic by Hublot

Swiss watch manufacturer Hublot, meanwhile, is embracing the digital age whole-heartedly with its limited-release Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic. Targetting its legion of China ‘Hublotistas’, just three pieces of this attention-grabbing skeletonised timepiece were released, exclusively through the Hublot WeChat Member Centre. Featuring an eye-catching rectangular design that is iconic of the Spirit of Big Bang collection, it is powered by a new HUB1233 Calibre movement that offers a staggering 10-day power reserve.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (5) — Free Bridge Infinity Edition by Girard-Perregaux

A similarly black-dominant open-faced creation comes from Girard-Perregaux in the form of its Free Bridge Infinity Edition. Crafted from steel but finished with a layer of extra-durable DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, this 44mm wrist adornment is burnished with skeletonised dauphine-style hands, while the hour markers lie suspended above the skeleton dial proper. Adding a dash of colour to its aesthetic are the pink gold hour markers that ring its fascia.

Also utilising a black-on-rose-gold motif is the latest revamp to Jaquet Droz’s much-loved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Stunningly minimalist, its stark design is transparent from both sides, drawing all attention firmly to the fully suspended gear train, skeletonised bridges and open-worked oscillating weight. This latest iteration also comes fitted with plasma ceramic – a first for the brand – which imbues it with robustness as well as a unique metallic glow.

“Skeleton dials allow you to view the marvellous movements of these watches”

Rounding out our list of outstanding skeleton dial watches is Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. Surely a tribute to the brand’s renowned skill in crafting the most intricate of wristwatch designs, it comes replete with a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, this statement timepiece sets a new benchmark for the complexity allowed by such open-worked designs.

Wrist Candy: Four fabulous watches that caught our eye at SIHH 2019

It’s no secret that the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch fair kicks off the watch industry’s annual calendar each year. Last month, the 29th iteration of the illustrious showcase kicked off in Geneva, with some of the world’s leading watchmakers unveiling some serious showstoppers in a bid to be the Brand with the Best Watch. From the hundreds of newly launched timepieces, here are four fabulous watches that particularly caught our eye at SIHH 2019.

SIHH 2019: Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night and Day Jewellery watch — *Jaeger-LeCoultre –* *Rendez-Vous* *Night and Day Jewellery*

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery

Watch-minded women were not left wanting at SIHH 2019, with a veritable slew of wrist candy designs up for grabs. Of these, perhaps Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery is worth a more serious look-see. Created with an eye-catching diamond-and-mother-of-pearl conceit, the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock further burnishes its sophisticated appeal. Fitted with an automatic movement, both pink and white gold models of this 36mm timepiece are equally chic – a fitting addition to the wrists of any femme fashionista.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Imperial Tiger

Long known for its dedication to precision handcraftsmanship and creative flair, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin did not disappoint at SIHH 2019. Several stunning one-of-a-kind additions to its Mécaniques Sauvages range were unveiled, each boasting a unique combination of wood marquetry and ‘bas-relief’ artisanal designs, paired enticingly with a majestic animal motif. Among these models, it was perhaps the Les Cabinotiers Imperial Tiger that truly stood out, with the eponymous golden tiger perched mid-prowl atop a rockface and surrounded by foliage.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur One-Off

Roger Dubuis, with its penchant for all things avant garde, pulled back the curtains on its all-new Excalibur One-Off. The latest instalment of its successful partnership with Italian motoring marque, Lamborghini, this sporty chronogram was inspired by the recently-launched Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar. Boasting clean lines, an aggressively-styled fascia and bezel in a bold red-black theme, the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the double flying tourbillon placed at 4 and 8 o’clock.

Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos

Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux, meanwhile, opted to look beyond terra firma to the cosmos as inspiration for its Bridges Cosmos. Heralded as being ‘a new dialogue between earth and sky’, this outré timepiece is aptly fitted with two globes – a miniature Earth and a micro star chart – that take centrestage on its generously spacious dial. If that weren’t enough, this all-encompassing creation also boasts a tourbillon and a second time zone indicator as well, a move sure to inspire interest from even the most discerning haute horlogerie enthusiast to peruse the veritable treasure trove of horological designs to bless SIHH 2019.

Planetarium Watches: Capturing the beauty of our cosmos in a wrist-sized package

Planetarium watches have long been star attractions in haute horology circles. Given humanity’s enamourment with the almost otherworldly nature of our cosmos, who could say no to the option of carrying a mini solar system on your wrist? Although they may seem like a modern creation, planetarium watch mechanisms existed long before its current wristwatch form.

Passement's 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock — *Passement’s 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock*

In days before the Age of Enlightenment (a.k.a. the 18th century), the use of planetariums were limited exclusively to those of a scientific bent exploring the secrets of the solar system. But as humanity become more informed and cultured, the uppermost strata of society began to take a benign interest in these fascinating mechanisms.

They spawned a series of intricate timepieces that tracked the progression of celestial bodies – a novel and cutting-edge idea at the time. French watchmaker Passement’s 1765 Louis XV Tellurian Orrery Clock, commissioned by the French royal court, was one such example. This table-top clock featured an accurate representation of the Earth and moon revolving around the sun.

Christiaan van der Klaauw's Satellite du Monde — *Christiaan van der Klaauw’s Satellite du Monde*

In more modern times though, planetarium watches have been shrunk down to portable sizes thanks to advents in watchmaking technology. Many of these advancements can be attributed to the works of one man – Christiaan van der Klaauw. The Dutchman – a giant in the world of haute horology – started his eponymous brand over 40 years ago, specialising exclusively in designing astronomical complications.

His Satellite du Monde, released in 1996, was the first real planetarium wristwatch. The rather busy dial featured an astrological complication which indicated, in real time, where noon was falling on our planet.

CVDK Planetarium - the world's smallest planetarium watch — *CVDK Planetarium – featuring the world’s smallest planetarium complication*

Three years later, he wowed the world by unveiling the CVDK Planetarium, the smallest planetarium complication ever made. Miniaturised down to sub-dial size, the beautiful face showed the real-time orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around our sun.

Aside from in-house designs, his atelier has lent its expertise to other timepiece manufacturers. One such example is the custom-made mechanism that adorned Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planetarium which was unveiled at SIHH earlier this year. (Read our feature on this watch and other SIHH highlights here.)

*Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium*

That’s not to say that CVDK holds a monopoly over planetarium watches. Other brands have also attempted to put these astrological complications into their designs. One brand that’s reaped fantastic results is Girard-Perregaux. In addition to having not one, not two, but three flying tourbillons, its Planetarium Tri-Axial Tourbillon features a mini-Earth that completes one rotation every 24 hours.

*Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri Axial*

Planetarium watches don’t often surface on the market. They’re extremely complicated, time-consuming and difficult to produce. But when they do emerge, they’re lauded by the haute hologerie world and watch enthusiasts without fail.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: Antiquorum, CVDK, Van Cleef & Arpels, Girard-Perregaux