Gin Genies: The rise and rise of Hong Kong craft gins

Applying for a license to distil gin in Hong Kong was almost unheard of a decade ago. Clearance to craft a distinctive local take on the ubiquitous juniper-flavoured spirit is almost like a mission to Mars. It involves an elaborate, arduous, and frustrating journey marked by mountains of red tape and approvals from more than seven government departments.

“High taxes were, and still are, another hurdle – while beer and wine have been duty-free since 2008, spirits above 30-percent alcohol content are taxed at a whopping 100-percent. Experimenting with a small batch of gin at home is also taxed and invites bureaucratic scrutiny.”

gin-genies-the-rise-and-rise-of-hong-kong-craft-gins-gafencu-two-moons-distillery — (Photo courtesy of Two Moons Distillery)

Stirring Up a Storm

Hong Kong had just two craft beer-makers in 2013. How the tide has shifted – ferociously, some might say. Today, the city is awash with the earthy, exotic output of some 35 artisan brewers and distillers. Gweilo Beer, which began in a spare bedroom, now operates from a US$5 million high-tech brewery in Fo Tan.

Amid a global ‘ginnaissance’ fuelled by millennials seeking a lighter, more aromatic craft drink of choice, it was only a matter of time before Hong Kong’s passionate gin lovers turned to distilling. Gweilo Gin arrived in 2019, distilled in London using the lead hop from their Pale Ale. Gin parties, gin parlours and ginvent calendars are taken very seriously here – gin is now glorious.

gin-genies-the-rise-and-rise-of-hong-kong-craft-gins-gafencu--botanicals — (Photo courtesy of NIP Distillery)

Types of Homegrown Gins

There are two distinct types of ‘local’ gin. Artisan brands such as Perfume Trees, Fragrant Harbour and Bauhinia are distilled abroad but infused with local botanicals to encapsulate the true essence of Hong Kong in a bottle. Then, there’s the gin of micro-distilleries based in the city – NIP and Two Moons, to name just the two – which offer unique, intrinsically local, and unconventional flavours of this resurgent spirit.

In an increasingly crowded market, we asked Dimple Yuen, founder of local micro-gin distillery Two Moons, on what makes a good gin: “Of course, taste is deeply personal; gin is an easy ‘starter drink’. Gin & Tonic is a lot of people’s first spirit. Premium gin has to sippable, not too harsh or rough on the palate and one that is a reminder of personal stories. With gin, it’s not only about the flavour or the aromas on your nose but the experience behind each sip.”

gin-genies-the-rise-and-rise-of-hong-kong-craft-gins-gafencu-two-moons-distillary-quinary — (Photo courtesy of Two Moons Distillery)

That said, there are some basic boxes which all go-to pours must tick – the gin should be smooth in a G&T, blend in a martini and be memorable enough to be sipped straight, again and again. If it is diversity and freshness you seek, then try those from copper stills on Hong Kong soil.

Also Read: Celebrating Cognac: France’s most luxurious spirit

NIP Gin

gin-genies-the-rise-and-rise-of-hong-kong-craft-gins-gafencu-nip-dry — (Photo courtesy of NIP Distillery)

Like Two Moons, Jeremy Li and Nick Law of NIP received their liquor manufacturer’s licence in 2019. An abbreviation of ‘not important person’, their gin is a highly refined, deliciously nuanced spirit made of 21 botanicals that celebrates the grit, perseverance and spirit of the underdog. Since neither founder has a beverage background, the name they chose has greater resonance and the quality of their craft is even more remarkable.

Two Moons

Established by Dimple Yuen and Ivan Chang in 2019, Two Moons has made a splash in the craft gin space due to the care and precision shown in creating each 100-bottle batch by hand. The taste is young and experimental, so unless you are a die-hard traditionalist, get ready to be blown away by the youthful vitality of the founders who infuse the best botanicals into their premium spirit.

They are even forthcoming with their proprietary recipe. “We want to be completely transparent and share the flavours so you might enjoy them as we do,” says Yuen. If a spirit-tasting tour is up your alley, pop by their distillery for a feel of their bespoke flavours – Two Moons is the first local gin maker to accommodate visitors.

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

Also Read: Rum-surgence: From sailors’ grog to premium spirit

Alcoholiday: The unstoppable rise of herb-infused, alcohol-free spirits

It’s a situation many of us are only too familiar with. You’re out on the razz with assorted chums and there’s alcoholic allure on every side. This time, though, you decide it’s best to demur. Maybe your medication makes it unwise, perhaps you’re down for a spot of designated driving or it could just be that over-indulgence is off your agenda for a little while. Whatever the spur, chances are you’re wondering what the best non-intoxicant is to help you while away the night.

Thankfully, over recent years, there has been an explosion in the options open to those with a self-imposed booze ban, most notably in the form of a wide variety of alcohol-free spirits. All but unknown even just six years ago, these sin-free spirits are now ubiquitous in many high-end bars and five-star leisure locales. The whole sector, though, owes a considerable debt to Seedlip Spice 94 – an aromatic distilled non-alcoholic spirit characterised by notes of bark, citrus and all spice – that debuted in Selfridges, one of London’s most upmarket department stores, in November 2015.

This intriguing beverage was created by Ben Branson, the founder of Seedlip, a London-based distiller of non-alcoholic spirits. Taking his inspiration from the The Art of Distillation, a 17th-century guide to distilling curative brews from sundry natural preparations, Branson purchased his own still and experimented with various self-grown herbs. Two years later, he’d mastered a six-week process – a blend of maceration, distillation and filtration – that yielded alcohol-free spirits with unique herbal flavourings.

“All but unknown six years ago, sin-free spirits are now ubiquitous in all the best high-end bars”

His first commercial venture was an instant – if unlikely – hit. Indeed, the first run of 1,000 handcrafted bottles of Seedlip Spice 94 sold out in three weeks, the second in three days and the third within half an hour.
Reflecting on those early days, he says: “It was surreal to see how demand grew. I launched it from my kitchen and I was the delivery driver, accountant, salesman, marketer, and manufacturer. Six years, later we sell in 37 countries, while there are now more than 125 products in the non-alcohol spirit category globally.”

Over the intervening years, the proverbial flood gates have well and truly opened, with the upstart herbal brand giving rise to a whole new drinking category. Inevitably, this has seen several other brands – notably fellow Brit brewer Lyre’s and US-based The Ritual – launching their own zero-alcohol herbal spirits.

The arrival of so many brands in the sector, however, does not mean that creating these distinctive beverages is in any way straightforward. Typically, it involves macerating the chosen botanicals – whether flowers, herbs, plants or seeds – until a base spirit has been produced, with the resultant mixture then distilled until all of the alcohol has been removed. At this point, the flavour-enhancing extracts are added in order to deliver the required tang. All in all, it’s a delicate process and one that necessitates keen judgment when it comes to ensuring both optimal flavour and a truly authentic drinking experience.

For those that manage to successfully steer their way through the many challenges of the production process, the rewards on offer are, indeed, substantial, In fact, according to data from Nielsen, the UK-headquartered market research giant, the no-alcohol beverage sector has grown by a massive 506 percent since 2015, with total related revenue expected to be some US$280 million over the next 12 months.
Inevitably, Hong Kong’s more discerning drinkers are among the many to have become beguiled by these ingeniously-crafted quaffs. With long-term teetotalers, the sober curious and the merely hangover-averse all on board, meeting the demand for pseudo-alcoholic beverages, with a full-flavour palate but no cognitive consequences, has become de rigueur for drinkeries throughout the city.

Is this, however, merely just a blip, with full-strength spirits just waiting in the wings, ready to resume their (seemingly) rightful centerstage spot? Maybe not. With wellness and health-consciousness looming increasingly large on the leisure landscape, it could well be that an alcohol-free libation truly is the spirit of the age.

Read more articles by clicking the below titles:

Sinlessly Delicious: These zero-alcohol cocktails are not to be mocked

A Taste for Teetotallers: Our favourite non-alcoholic spirits

Two Moons x Room 309 Presents Limited Edition Craft Gin: Five Flowers Tea Dry Gin

Taking full advantage of the city’s renewed love of all things gin, two of Hong Kong’s leading F&B names, Two Moons and Room 309, have come together to craft a very special limited-edition Five Flowers Tea Dry Gin. If that weren’t enough, they’re also offering three lucky buyers the chance to win a luxurious stay at the boutique hotel, The Pottinger Hong Kong.

Two Moons, Hong Kong’s first gin distillery, and Room 309, an exclusive bar within The Pottinger Hong Kong, come together in a unique partnership to combine the distillery’s award-winning Signature Dry Gin with an ancient remedy, Five Flower Tea, to incorporate a rich cultural heritage into the premium gin. The quality of its production is a reflection of the two brands’ pursuit for artistic elegance and sophistication. The formulation of the 12 selective botanicals in Two Moons’ Signature Dry Gin and the detoxifying Five Flowers Tea fuses into an experience refined for the palette.

The two sought-after brands have also generously offered HK$5,530 worth of exclusive giveaways to three lucky winners upon purchasing the limited herbal flavor-inspired spirit with a chance to win a premium experience of a lifetime at The Pottinger Hong Kong. The prizes included:

Grand Prize: A one-night staycation for two at The Pottinger Hong Kong, inclusive of an in-room service of two cocktails and snacks with compliments by ROOM 309 (worth HK$3,000)

2nd Prize: A private distillery tour for two at Two Moons Distillery in Chai Wan (worth HK$2,000)

3rd Prize: A 700ml bottle of Two Moon’s Signature Dry Gin (worth HK$530)

Sippin’ on Sustainability: John Anthony launches new zero-waste cocktails

While many establishments within the food and beverage sector are just now finding themselves adopting more environmentally friendly ethos, modern Cantonese restaurant John Anthony has been eco-driven from its very start. Giving a whole new meaning to green-thumbs, Executive Chef Saito Chau isn’t the only wiz when it comes to whipping up sustainable veggie dishes, as John Anthony’s mixology team composed of Katelyn Ix and Suraj Gurang, are also ensuring that the bar menu is a thing of zero-waste too.

john anthony zero-waste cocktails — Bay of Bengal

Drawing inspiration from the ancient Silk Road, John Anthony has crafted four house-infused Gin & Tonics and nine new Signature zero-waste cocktails all made from sustainable and locally foraged ingredients. Being home to one of Hong Kong’s largest collections of gin – over 400 and counting – bar goers can gaze aweingly at the four 12-litre transparent tubes that sit at the centre of the restaurants bar, which contain house-infused gins of shiso, strawberry, sun dried tomato and rhubarb.

Among those worthy of trying are the Bay of Bengal which has been infused with coconut washed gin, aveze, cardomom bitters. sandalwood tincture, spiced mango, lemon and Indian tonic – and is garnished with black pepper and a chickpea cracker. Clearly not your average drink, the cocktail’s taste is just a mighty as its ingredients list, as it perfectly balances its fruity flavours with the woody and floral notes from the sandalwood and spiced mango.

Also making our list of favourites – Uprooted – made with the combination of pandan vodka, tea-smoked ginger, lime, passion fruit honey and kaffrir lime tincture. The tea-smoked ginger proves to be the standout ingredient and it’s to no wonder as the plant has long been a flavour beloved for both its medicinal and culinary contributions in both Chinese and Indian culture. The pandan vodka also proved to offer something quite unique, a sure favourite for any adult with a still lingering sweet tooth.

John Anthony Hong Kong, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, (852) 2898 3788

An Unlikely Couple: HYC Bar and Lounge fuses shisha and gin

There are many shisha bars in Hong Kong, just as there are many gin parlors. However, the newly-opened HYC Bar and Lounge, has made the bold move to combine the two palliative pastimes in the stylish upscale atmosphere perched atop of the 22nd floor of Nathan Hill complex in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Within seconds of entering HYC Bar and Lounge, shisha supporters and gluggers of gin will be immersed in an inviting chic environment and doted on by its warm and knowledgable staff. The atmosphere of both the inside the bar and its rooftop lounge are near-perfect for an intimate romantic date or just a night out with friends to celebrate the end of the work week. Guests can gaze across the panoramic vistas of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island while enjoying this all-new nightlife hotspot’s many tantalising treats.

Any skeptic of shisha will surely have their ears perked as they hear about HYC’s commitment to providing Hong Kong with not only the most luxurious hookah on the market, but also the healthiest too.

Indeed, HYC has partnered with only the very best in shisha developers – American company Kaloud and Canadian company Shishabucks. Taking a more modern and healthy approach to the pastime, both Kaloud and Shishabucks have created technology that includes Heat Management Devices (HMD) for a cleaner experience. These devices work to remove the need for tinfoil (a noted health threat) while optimising flavours and increasing the quality of the smoke, providing guests with a smoother and more beneficial affair.

In addition to its assortment of health-conscious machines, Shishabucks and Kaloud also offer some of the most unique flavours on the hookah market, including white gummy bear, Hong Kong milk tea, and mint chocolate.

In addition to its allure as one of Hong Kong’s most luxurious and healthiest shisha venue, HYC Bar and Lounge is also home to an outstanding array of gin cocktails that pair perfectly with the light and smooth hookahs on the menu. The butterfly flower infused gin and yuzu tonic, for instance, is sure to be an instant classic. Among the cocktails to be admired is also the OKKURRR, which features the slightest hint of sweet passionfruit to balance the dryness of the Citadelle gin.

For guests who wish to create their own cocktail, HYC also offers a mix-and-match option with the added bonus of selecting a smokey sensory experience; our favourite being the Oak.

During the month of February, HYC will be serving an array of delicious promotional concoctions, including Hendricks gin + grapefruit tonic with dry rose smoke, and cucumber chill + Japanese Yuzu with fruitbase from 8-14 February.

HYC Bar and Lounge
22/F Nathan Hill
38 Hillwood Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui

Flash, Flush and Festive: The Most Expensive Spirits on the Market

Here at Gafencu we were very excited to hear that ‘The World’s Most Expensive Gin” has just gone up for sale for a mere £4000, at the Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge. British brand JamJar Gin has distilled its limited edition Morus LXIV from the leaves of an ancient mulberry tree and sealed it in handmade ceramic jars. Just in time for our Christmas party!

We reckon Morus LXIV is going to sell pretty well, especially as compared to many of the other big ticket bottles out there it’s an absolute bargain. If juniper isn’t your thing then have a look at the world’s most expensive…

… Cognac

Surely the ultimate Christmas tipple, the festive season is not complete without a bottle of the classiest of fortified wines. Camus, the world’s largest independent producers of cognac, released 1,492 bottles of Camus Cuvee 5.150, an extraordinary blend of five rare spirits from five different cognac-growing regions to celebrate their 150th anniversary in 2013. The US$5,000 price tag includes an individually numbered Baccarat crystal decanter and two matching tasting glasses.

… Tequila

At US$3.5 million per bottle, Ultra Premium Ley .925 Pasion Azteca is not for knocking back with salt and lime. This is a six-year-old sipping tequila, and while you’re sipping why not take a moment to take in the bottle. Designed by Mexican artist Alejandro Gomez Oropeza, the bottle is handcrafted from platinum and studded with diamonds. Best get some swish glasses to match.

… Vodka

Although the Billionaire Vodka brand sells its bottles for more, they have kept it locked up in bars and restaurants. However the good people at Hong Kong-based vodka brand Royal Dragon know that you might want to host your own Christmas cocktail party. And so for a mere US$5.5 million you can take home six litres of their silky smooth, charcoal distilled Eye of the Dragon vodka, which comes in a hand blown bottle decorated with 2 kilos of 18 karat gold and 620 karats of diamonds – including a round-cut yellow diamond pendant. The best part is of this show stopper is that your guests will be so enthralled by the bottle you probably won’t even have to talk to them.

… Whisky

We’re calling this one a tie. This is because, while Isabella Islay’s luxurious hand-crafted 40-year-old Original Scotch Single Malt Whisky is not to be sniffed at, it’s the bottle that really steals the show with an elegant white gold decanter studded with 300 rubies and 8,500 diamonds, which justifies the US$6.2 million price tag. However if you’re thinking more along the lines of “it’s what’s inside that counts” then keep an eye out for a bottle of this year’s Macallan’s Fine & Rare. Each year the distillery releases a small number of bottles containing its oldest and best whiskies from history. A steal compared to Islay’s bottle at approximately US$75,000.

Text by: Alice Duncan