Tag: Fragrance

Do essential oils really work? Here’s what science says

What does a whiff of cinnamon do to you? Does it flood your mind with memories of Christmas at grandma’s? Does the smell of frying onions make you long for your mother’s comfort food? Or the sugary pungency of Victoria’s Secret body spray spark a flurry of teenage nostalgia? Aromas have a powerful way of uplifting the mood and taking us on an emotive journey.

The sense of smell is such a commanding memory trigger. I fondly remember the fresh woody aroma in Dad’s car when he drove me home for the holidays, the scent of the crisp, cotton shirts and pristine jackets he donned for work. The acetone-like smell of his final hours at the hospital when he hovered between life and death is an unsettling memory I’d like to wipe out, but it’s intertwined so deeply with emotions. The fact that you can smell your way back in time has made aromas big business.

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Fragrance, of course, is a historic commercial success story, while the ancient treatment of aromatherapy has been catching up of late – it was a US$1.6 billion global industry last year, according to market research database Grand View Research. The soothing wellness movement can be applied to a wide array of ailments, from acne to asthma to anxiety, migraine to myopia, and the common cold to, supposedly, even cancer. Touted as a cure-all because of its spectacular growth, aromatherapy is simultaneously viewed amid a waft of hype, misinformation and controversy.

In the United States, aromatherapy has generally escaped Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations and has attracted obsessive multilevel marketing by often untrained housewives. Do its benefits really run deeper than the superficial? Are any of its many impressive claims actually legitimate?

Also Read: The wonderful healing benefits of essential oils

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Exacting Extraction
Aromatherapy involves the extraction of oils from plants, flowers or herbs through a complex distillation process that encapsulates the ‘essence’ of their natural source, and the subsequent use of these essential oils for therapeutic purposes. Essential oils are derived primarily from leaves, roots, bark and flowers, and sometimes from dried seeds, fruit peel and resin, and they can be 50 to 100 times more potent than the oils occurring naturally in these plants. Diffuse the oils in air and they engage the respiratory system by inhalation to reach the brain; mixed with a carrier oil and dabbed onto the skin, they work by absorption through the dermis into the bloodstream.

Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, alleviating pain or just sensationally aromatic, essential oils have been key to a multitude of alternative treatments since the earliest times. Ancient Egyptians used them as part of the mummification process.

More recently, Coca-Cola and Pepsi became the biggest consumers of food-grade essential oils after discovering the secret scent it gave to their sodas. Disseminating into the public consciousness over the past four decades, they’ve taken the wellness industry by storm.

Also Read: Eye Yoga – The latest wellness craze but does it work?

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Heart & Soul
Does aromatherapy work?

Depends on who you ask and your definition of ‘work’. Supermodel Miranda Kerr advocates consulting a scent specialist to address all your emotional needs. After all, a blend of four essential oils helped her deal with post-breakup depression and find love again by “activating the heart chakra”. Earth goddess Gwyneth Paltrow is obviously one of the biggest advocates of aromatherapy. Pop star Kesha is a doTerra fan and religiously uses its essential oils to invite positivity into her life. She tweeted: “They make me feel so peaceful.” Sceptics, on the other hand, view it as a vain wellness obsession of the wealthy and a potentially dangerous marketing gimmick.

More than 150 essential oils are used in aromatherapy, and each has a distinct character, chemistry and consequence.

Rosemary, for instance, is deemed to be purifying, tea tree oil is antibacterial, chamomile is invigorating, and lavender soothes the senses. Enter a luxurious spa and within moments you are enveloped by a sense of calm, a momentary balance; smell coffee and you’re instantly jolted into focus. Aromatherapy has proven benefits of awakening the mind, calming the nerves, de-stressing tired muscles and treating conditions like eczema, psoriasis and bruising.

Also Read: Aromatic wonders: Boutique perfume houses you probably haven’t heard of…

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Absence of Science
Out of the 150 types of essential oils in the market, only ten have been have examined by researchers in long-term, peer-reviewed clinical trials, and the results are modest. Yes, a waft of peppermint oil eases headaches and sharpens concentration for many, but its effectiveness is not guaranteed; indeed it may provoke an adverse reaction in some. Scientific studies have found little or no concrete evidence that aromatherapy can treat severe ailments and conditions like depression, hypertension, ADHD, autism, dementia and cancer.

So how have companies like Young Living and doTerra been able to make lofty claims about the curative potential of their products and become multi-billion-dollar megabrands? The answer lies in the intelligent positioning of essential oils in the largely unregulated wellness industry. Oils can be used as drugs, cosmetics or household items, and by slotting them into the grey area between perfumes and medicines they don’t directly fall under the purview of the FDA. Hence, as long as companies avoid marketing their oils in the ‘drug’ category, they can get away with outlandish assertions using abstract words like ‘vitality’ and ‘balance’. The big brands will have panels of attorneys on hand to ensure that their labelling claims remain vague and within legal bounds.

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The production of pure essential oils is a resource-intensive process. One million rose petals are required to make an ounce of rose oil, which treats skin conditions like eczema. Frankincense oil, billed to promote cellular health and immunity, costs hundreds of thousands of dollars per barrel. Yet in a packed field of independent distributors and money-making marketing pyramids, it is hard to be sure you are getting the genuine potent product. It may soothe your furrowed brow if you keep the following points in mind:

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Cheap trick
Extracting essential oils is an exacting process. Quality, purity and authenticity do not come cheap, so if the price is too good to be true, it is probably a scam.

Label envy
The common and Latin name of the plant used to extract the essence should be stated on the label, along with other essentials like the carrier oil (used to dilute the essential oil so that it can be applied to the skin) and the date and place of production. It’s a definite red flag if one of these is missing. 

Pure at heart
Avoid perfume or fragrance oils; these contain chemicals. For aromatherapy to be at all effective, you need a single, pure essential oil. 
Bottle check
Pure essential oils generally come in sealed bottles of dark glass with a maximum volume of four ounces. Light and heat can hamper purity, so if you’re buying a transparent bottle, it’s probably a knock-off.

So, just to be 100 percent clear, essential oils do not cure cancer or any serious medical ailment, but if they bring you some relief and respite, peace of mind and a little TLC, that’s certainly something to sniff at.

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

Also Read: Bathing Graces: Bath oils to bless your body with

Scentsible choice: Fragrance aficionados are turning to niche perfumes

 

When French perfume house Editions de Parfums hit the market in 2000, it was a game-changer. Here you had no celebrity endorsements, no marketing gimmicks and no-frills packaging. Presented in a minimalist bottle with a simple black label strapped across the centre, the scent is left to speak for itself.

While Editions is still considered niche, it became so sought after that it eventually caught Estée Lauder’s attention. The beauty powerhouse acquired Editions about two years ago, and other niche labels have been snapped up just as fast by major corporations. Most recently, niche perfumer Maison Francis Kurkdjian was bought by luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. Beyond the mundane business of mergers and acquisitions, one thing is clear: Niche is in, and bigname brands are out.

French perfume expert Axelle Frachon believes this is smart business, but the ample options also make it an exciting time to be in the market for a new fragrance.

 

 

The shift to niche was predicted long ago by Editions de Parfums founder Frédéric Malle, who recognised that perfume makers were tired of churning out commercialised scents that depended on celebrity endorsements to sell. Consumers were bored, too.

“The fragrance industry almost died because of all the celebrity fragrances,” Malle says, explaining that Europeans were so underwhelmed by the available choices that many stopped wearing perfume altogether. What modern, fragrance-savvy men and women really want is quality – and it’s a factor they’re unwilling to compromise on. “Slowly but surely, they are coming back to us because … there are some very good collections,” Malle says.

From the get-go, Malle took a different approach to perfume-making. He eschewed fancy bottles and brand ambassadors, instead opting to celebrate the hitherto unknown perfume makers who bring his ideas to life. Each fragrance bears the name of the individual perfumer who created it.

“They think only of images and not of the perfume,” Malle says of mainstream perfumers. The cheaper the perfume, the fancier the bottle … We have different quality standards. It’s a different level – the ultimate luxury in perfume.”

 

 

Aside from Editions, there’s no shortage of self-proclaimed niche perfumes on the market right now, but beware of brands that use it solely as a buzz word. For those wondering how to separate the professionals from the amateurs, Frachon has a few recommendations. Paul Emilien (UK) and Histoires de Parfums (France) both make high-quality fragrances, Frachon says. If a quintessentially French eau de parfum is what you seek, even more options await. “The perfumes of Nicolaï are elegant, chic and easy to wear,” says Frachon. “I also enjoy the richness of Parfum d’Empire, the beautiful raw quality of Les Indémodables and the humour and edginess of État Libre d’Orange.”

For brands that are more readily accessible in Hong Kong, pop into IFC Mall to sample scents by French label Diptyque or British perfumer Penhaligon’s. Parfumerie Trésor in Sheung Wan (G/F, 18 Upper Station Street) is the best shop in the city for niche fragrances, Frachon says.

Although the perfume industry is closely associated with France, other brands around the world have proven to be formidable competitors. Byredo, founded in Sweden in 2006, has taken the niche market by storm with its seductive scents and innovative application methods.

In addition to a traditional spray bottle, Byredo also makes scents in powder form that can be applied with a brush. The fragrances are certainly unique, too. The Bibliothèque (library) scent, available in perfume and candle form, captures the essence of old books through a blend of peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli and vanilla.

Gypsy Water, “a glamorisation of the Romany lifestyle”, is a bohemian blend of bergamot, juniper berries, lemon, pepper, pine needle, amber, vanilla and more.

 

 

Another alternative perfumer is Jo Malone, which is particularly popular in Hong Kong. One of the brand’s newest colognes, English Oak, comes in two varieties: redcurrant and hazelnut. Although most of Jo Malone’s colognes tend to be perceived as masculine, they aren’t specifically marketed to men – and indeed, many women enjoy wearing the brand’s floral fragrances.

Unisex scents have been picking up steam in the industry and are now considered “quite trendy”, according to Frachon. “I think this trend is following a social evolution towards more equality. People don’t want to be defined according to their sex anymore,” she says. “Furthermore, fragrant raw materials don’t have sex. It’s our culture that considers woody notes more masculine than floral ones. In the Middle East it’s very common for men to wear rose perfumes, for example.”

Like Editions de Parfums, Jo Malone was acquired by Estée Lauder, which also owns Le Labo. In a similar vein, Byredo and Diptyque are owned by the same investment firm, and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s are both Puig brands.

Being bought by a larger company allows niche brands to greatly expand their distribution network, all while retaining their own ethos – for now at least. Established perfume houses are capitalising on the niche trend in other ways, too.

“Even the big traditional brands are launching their ‘niche’ style ranges,” Frachon says. “Think about the Hermessences from Hermès, or Les Exclusifs de Chanel, and what about the new fragrances from Louis Vuitton? Are they niche or not?” Frachon leaves it up to consumers to decide, but notes that shoppers “can find a lot of variety on the perfumery market” right now.

While the major maisons like Chanel and Dior are still king in Hong Kong, more and more people are beginning to appreciate the nuances and complexity of fragrances, contributing to the growing demand for more personalised perfumes. This has fuelled the popularity of brands that offer bespoke perfume-making services which tailor a scent to a customer’s preferences and personality.

Frachon’s French Elixir in Hong Kong works with a few independent perfumers to create customised fragrances. Perfumers get to know clients’ preferences by having them smell raw materials, and they also try to get a feel for the client’s personality and needs. After a perfume is created, clients receive a sample and have the chance to make adjustments as they see fit.

“Perfume is about creating magic – making people dream with just a spray,” Frachon says. “It’s about bringing some luxury into your daily life.”

The perfume industry’s embrace of sugar, spice and everything niche has made shopping for fragrances a more playful experience, with surprises at every turn. Are you a Mister Marvelous (Byredo) or the perfect Portrait of a Lady (Editions de Parfums)? If you’re unsure, let your nose lead the way.

 

Text: Emily Petsko

Chanel’s new fragrance pays tribute to its founder with celebratory sensorium

 

Chanel recently hosted a private event at The Annex in Hong Kong to unveil its new fragrance named after its iconic founder, Gabrielle Chanel.

Created by perfumer Olivier Polge, the fragrance is the latest in the list of tributes that Chanel has paid to its creator Coco Chanel throughout the year, starting with the ‘Coco before Chanel’ high jewellery collection and the Gabrielle bag earlier in 2017.

Using multi-faceted mirrors and walls decorated with Coco Chanel’s celebrated quotes as well as scented niches designed for taking in the aromatic ingredients of the perfume, the private space provided a way to experience the perfume using all the senses beyond just scent alone.

As is usual with any Chanel party, a lot of celebrities turned up to show their support for the brand. Some well-known faces included Joey Yung, Hins Cheung, Tracy Chu, Elva Ni, Anjaylia Chan, Angela Yuen, Zelia Zhong and Evelyn Choi.