Tag: food

High Table Stakes: Are the number of best restaurant trophies awarded today muddying the chef’s soup?

Chef-humanitarian and 2024 Nobel Peace Prize nominee José Andrés famously defended the relevance of culinary awards, saying: “I love what it’s done elevating the profession.” If chefs are the new rock stars, there’s now a stage for them, their ideas and causes. Certainly, awards for chefs and their restaurants have received greater scrutiny in recent years, since they are now held responsible for wider changes. Any award must, by definition, condense multiple servings of exceptional skill and intricacy into a shortlist consisting of one choice per category, a single No. 1 or ‘Restaurant of the Year.’ For the eating and travelling public, who don’t spend all day (and night) discussing restaurants professionally, these honours are practical distillations.

What began as an evaluation of ‘best’ and excellence has expanded to include more than simply food and service. These days, any organisation that bestows culinary gongs must take responsibility for humanitarian causes and industry trends. Too much wokeness? Maybe. But in these times of instant communication, being overly informed is preferable to not giving any care at all.

More awards mean more chances. Awards are inherently limiting – there are only so many categories to spotlight, so many new names, women and people of colour who can be singled out without sacrificing integrity or lengthening the duration of the gala presentation.

So, is another round of chef awards really necessary? Similar to how there is no one ultimate authority on international film, there is no one body that has exclusive rights dishing out culinary honours, though three of the most well- known worldwide – Michelin, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and the James Beard Foundation – still live up to the clamour they receive.

Working wonders

Dining awards are a fantastic way to promote a restaurant and raise employee morale. They also bring in new consumers and increase the number of repeat patrons. First off, the press attention for the winners is immense as the awards are advertised in local media, and local and international media will report on the event and publish chef profiles and dining features, which in turn feed the restaurant’s own marketing machine. Awards such as Diners’ Choice by Chope frequently work with influential local and media figures to announce the winners, generating publicity that will benefit the lucky recipients.

Another gain is that it attracts diners outside of the usual clientele. Dining awards target locals who will patronise the restaurant business. Appearing on an awards list ensures more awareness and, for the winners, may result in free entitlements such as email marketing, social media postings and blog articles. For example, each Diners’ Choice restaurant winner in Singapore and Hong Kong is entitled to marketing credits, posts on Facebook and Instagram, and web and app placements to drive traffic into the dining room.

It also brings in tourists. When searching for ‘Best restaurants in (country name)’, one will undoubtedly find a list by a top travel or local publication of enticing places to dine. Many of these listicles are penned by food journalists who want to put a country on the world map, selecting restaurants that have internationally recognised awards.

The buzz beyond

Culinary award-giving bodies not only exist to celebrate excellence in the world of food and dining but also strive to make a positive impact on society. Through their philanthropic initiatives, they aim to address pressing social issues, promote sustainability, foster diversity and inclusion, and encourage responsible practices.

Exhibit A: the Michelin Guide collaborating with StreetSmart to combat homelessness in the UK. Diners at participating restaurants have the option to donate £1, which is added to their bill.

Funds collected through this initiative are then distributed to specialist charities that assist those living on the streets, catering to their basic needs and providing resources, mentoring and skills training. By covering StreetSmart’s operational costs, sponsors ensure that every penny raised directly benefits those in need.

The James Beard Awards in the US, which promote and nurture talent, sustainability and diversity, are another example of awarders extending their remit beyond the plate. The New York-headquartered James Beard Foundation provides scholarships and mentorship programmes to aspiring chefs and food professionals, fostering education and empowering the next generation of culinary talent. It also promotes sustainability by encouraging farm-to-table sourcing and reducing food waste, thereby minimising the industry’s environmental impact. In addition, the James Beard Awards recognise chefs from diverse backgrounds, celebrating their contributions to American cuisine and highlighting the importance of diversity and inclusion in the culinary world.

Launched in 2022 to honour top chefs, restaurants and culinary destinations, the World Culinary Awards aim to encourage culinary tourism, cultural exchange and collaboration among chefs worldwide. Such initiatives not only elevate industry standards but also promote cross-cultural understanding and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.

Launched in 2022 to honour top chefs, restaurants and culinary destinations, the World Culinary Awards aim to encourage culinary tourism, cultural exchange and collaboration among chefs worldwide. Such initiatives not only elevate industry standards but also promote cross-cultural understanding and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.

The Good Food Awards, established in 2002 by the UK publication The Good Food Guide, recognises products that achieve a harmonious balance between superior taste and responsible practices. Winners meet rigorous environmental and social responsibility standards, showcasing their commitment to building strong, healthy communities through good food. By honouring craftsmanship, flavour and sustainability, the Good Food Awards inspire consumers to make conscious choices and support businesses that prioritise ethical and sustainable practices.

Food for thought

Awards are fun too – though those chefs whose dreams of earning a Michelin star were crushed this year may not agree. They celebrate the industry as a whole and recognise people who are great at what they do, whether they are actually the best or not.

What does ‘best’ even mean? The 46-year- old baker who makes the freshest bagels every morning in a shop along the Kennedy Town tramway; the 77-year-old owner of an excellent sisig restaurant in Pampanga in the Philippines; and the mother and daughter who have served egg waffles beside the Macau Cathedral since the ’80s, to name just a few, all deserve to be called the best.

As Nobel nominee Chef Andrés would say: “Women are the ones who feed the world. Not big male chefs and not even famous female chefs… but everyday women. If awards become too exclusive, it loses the magic effect. And while we, restaurant chefs, feed the few, at the end of the day, all others who feed the many should be recognised the same.”

Food has the power to bring people together, and by embracing culinary inclusivity, we can create a more diverse and inclusive society. So, let’s celebrate the power of food and use it as a tool to connect, learn, and grow together. And are culinary awards good things? As long as the quest for a medallion does not get in the way of the central job – serving the people.

Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience

For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.

Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.

Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”

Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.

The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.

Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.

The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.

Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”

 

Auor. 4/F, no. 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai
(852) 2866 4888 auor.com.hk

 

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio Photos: Auor)

South african safari- famed for game reserves and the big five

A destination calling for a brave heart and a free spirit, South Africa offers an abundance of raw, wild nature. Ranking third in the world for biodiversity, the country is an animal and plant kingdom packed with more than 95,000 known species. It is undoubtedly the African continent’s most developed and popular place for holidays with more than 600 game reserves and safari parks, clear vast skies and beautiful beaches.
The ideal time to go on safari tours is during South Africa’s winter, between June and October, when it is cooler and drier where barer trees allow you to spot animals roaming for prey. Although the summer offers lusher sights, the thicker bush may hinder your view. The cold nights are perfect for bonfires and the mornings bring spectacular sunrises with the options of finding comfort at a luxury lodge or camping in the wilderness to experience the rugged landscapes.

Famous Five
With more than 600 types of reptiles and mammals and 800 species of birds, the country is most widely known for the Big Five – lion, leopard, rhinoceros, buffalo and elephant – that tourists tick off on their safari must-see list. These South African icons can also be seen on their bank notes, just in case one escapes you in the wild.
The best way to spot these animals in their natural habitat is by booking a safari tour with a seasoned guide. Long safari tours usually cover a wide-ranging area and may prove to be more expensive than planning and booking your own itinerary. Rangers accompanying you on the game drives are skilled at tracking animals in the most unlikely of places. There may be the option to self-drive, but that comes with the risk of losing your way or encountering a herd of large and unfriendly animals.

Park and Drive
Full-day safaris may be suitable for shorter stays at the bigger reserves, although it can get very hot midday – when the animals slink off to sleep too. Sunrise safaris will suit morning people, starting the day early when it is still cold and breezy, birds chirping and the bushes waking up to a new day. However, night game drives or sundowners are the most adventurous, as the sun is setting and nocturnal animals emerge from their cover. The wind blows a bit stronger, so it is advisable to bring layers.
The most popular spot for safaris is the Kruger National Park. Too big to be covered in a week, the park is a five-hour drive from Johannesburg and home to a surprising variety of wildlife beyond the Big Five. It also covers the San (bushman) rock paintings and several archaeological sites. The diverse terrain allows varying safari styles in drylands, wetlands and river tributaries, from walking tours and game drives to horseback, hot-air balloon and boat safaris.

Reserve Luxury
For travellers who do not want to compromise luxury and comfort, five-star lodges at private game reserves offer high-end accommodation, delectable cuisine and exceptional service, as well as exclusive wildlife excursions. One of the most luxurious safari experiences awaits guests at the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, nestled beside the mighty Kruger National Park.
Singita Sabi Sand hosts an array of extravagant lodges and villas, each with a unique experience and distinct setting. Singita Boulders Lodge is built along the boulder-strewn banks of the Sand River, Singita Ebony Lodge rests among giant trees and restores the senses with colours and captivating sounds and Singita Castleton is reminiscent of an African stone-walled farmhouse overlooking the wilderness. These lodges share 45,000 acres of land that is known for frequent leopard sightings – often the most elusive of the Big Five.
Spanning 58,000 hectares, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve is one of South Africa’s largest private game destinations. Offering immersion in a landscape of flora and thriving wildlife, it is renowned for white lions, cheetahs, elephants and zebras. Three and a half-hour drive away from Cape Town in the southwest of the country, Sanbona boasts a variety of accommodation options on the open plain against the glorious backdrop of the Cape Fold mountains.
Aquila Private Game Reserve near the Touws River is even closer – a two-hour drive away to the city attractions of Cape Town, and promises a fair chance of the Big Five. Time can also be spent with rehabilitated wildlife at the on-site Animal Rescue Centre. The 10,000-hectare conservancy offers game drives on traditional vehicles, horseback, quadbikes and even helicopters. Fire pits are lit at night for guests to gather, share stories and stargaze with telescopes where a good view of the Milky Way could be some solace after a day of wild adventure.

Water and Wine
Hermanus, a secluded fishing village and an hour-and-a-half drive away from Cape Town, will appeal to outdoor enthusiasts and culinary connoisseurs. It is also a great spot for whale-watching and spotting dolphins and penguins. Drive north from here into the foothills to reach the fairy-tale valley of Hemel-en-Aarde (‘heaven and earth’ in Afrikaans) famous for its fine Pinot Noir. It certainly is heaven on earth for oenophiles, as acclaimed wine estates cluster along a single road.

Southern Paradise
The majestic Garden Route is among South Africa’s most scenic tourist attractions. Ideal for a long road trip, the 125-mile stretch of coast showcases striking vistas and must-visit spots of the Western and Eastern Capes. Along the way, there are beaches to sunbathe on, forests to explore and rivers to canoe. Among the most adventurous treks for hikers are the Otter Trail along the Indian Ocean coastline and the Tsitsikamma Trail, which cuts through indigenous forest.
The west-to-east route begins at Mossel Bay, a harbour town of botanical gardens, beaches, museums and water parks, and continues as far east as you fancy. Be sure to stopover at Wilderness, which is great for water skiing, paragliding, trail-walking and fishing. A detour inland past myriad ostrich farms is recommended to delve into the underground wonders of the Cango Caves.
Simply put, the South of Africa has it all.

Text: Zaira Abbas ; Photos: Unsplash.com

Six tips to make you an expert at cheese and wine pairing

Cheese, that oh so richly flavoured and deliciously textured dairy product that often take part during the second or last course of the meal. While they are typically served as is with accompanying bread, honey or fruit, its various distinctive aroma and tastes  makes each one makes for a dining experience that merits special attention. Making the most of pairing wine and cheese will often mean selecting a wine that veers off course from the bottle served throughout the meal, but pairing  the right one will make it worth the while. If you’re curious to know just how to nail down the perfect cheese and wine pairing, read on…

 

1. Find the right balance
Balancing the intensity of the wine and cheese is crucial to tasting the unique flavour profile of each one. Typically, wines over 14.5 percent ABV are taste better with equally or more intensely flavoured cheeses, while wines under 12 percent ABV take on a milder flavour profile that pars nicely with more delicately flavoured cheeses.

Try pairing: Carbernet Sauvignon and Cheddar or Pinot Noir and Gruyere

2. Pair aged cheeses with bold red wines
Aged cheeses are higher in fat content, which matches well with the firm tannins in bold red wines (new world wines that can be aged). Imagine a creamy cheddar countering the mouth-drying of a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Try pairing: Monte Pulciano and Parmigiano-Reggiano or Chianti and Grana Padano 

3. ‘Funky’ cheese  taste better with sweet wine

Funky cheeses are best described by their strong smell, which often are hard to put into words. Indeed, when it comes to cheese, stinkier is better, if paired well with the right wine. The key here is selecting sweet wines which help balance the “funk” in these type of cheeses — resulting in a creamier texture and sweeter taste. 

Try pairing: Port and Stilton or Sauternes and Roquefort

4. Pair soft cheeses with sparkling wine
With soft cheeses, because they are mild and delicate by themselves, pairing a richly flavoured wine with this type of cheese would easily overpower its flavour profile and texture. Sparkling wines, however feature a high acidity and carbonation that elevates soft cheeses such as Brie, Muenster and Camebert off the plate and serve as a palate-cleanser for their creamy and sticky  texture.

Try pairing: Prosecco and Gorgonzola or Brut champagne and Brie

5. Pair wine and cheese from the same region
It is often said that, when in doubt, pair wine and cheese made from the same region. This is because local traditions of each country typically adapt their food to the wines they produce, and vise versa, which we can confirm, is the case for several of the French and Spanish wines and cheese we’ve tasted.

Try pairing: Sauvignon Blanc and Goat Cheese (Loire Valley, France), Chardonnay and Époisses de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France), or Garnacha and Manchego (Spain).

6. To pair a variety of wines, pick a nutty cheese to match
Turning things around to select a cheese type to accommodate the wine rather than the other way around, as is the case above, nutty cheeses are often safe bets when enjoying a variety of different wines. These cheeses are firmer, longer-aged cow or sheep’s milk. These delicately flavoured cheeses such as Swiss or Gruyere balances the tannin in red wines while also complimenting delicate white wines, making it a versatile option.

Try pairing: Pinot Noir and Beaujolais, Swiss and Reisling, Emmental and Chardonnay or Gouda and Cabernet Sauvignon

 

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Natural Sweeteners: It’s worth taking a look at these healthier sugar alternatives

Although sugars are part and parcel of everyone’s diet, they’re actually detrimental to your health, causing such wide-ranging issues as increased risks of diabetes, heart disease and obesity. What’s more, artificial variants processed from GMO-laden corn are even more hazardous. A better means of promoting well-being, then, is to opt for natural, healthier sugar alternatives that provide a low-calorie yet still flavourful option for those with a sweet tooth. 

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar stevia

Stevia
Extracted from the leaves of the Stevia rebaudiana plant, this most popular of healthier sugar alternatives is estimated to be over 200 times sweeter than granulated sugar but has virtually no calories. This, no doubt, has led to its growing popularity among health fanatics and fitness junkies. Be careful. Some varieties of stevia are actually highly-processed, so make sure you get ones that are labeled organic and non-GMO. 

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar erythritol

Erythritol
Erythritol is a sugar alcohol found naturally in certain food and beverages such as grapes, peaches, beer and cheese, but it can also be processed into a powdered sweetener. It contains only 0.24kcal per gram and is just 0.7 times as sweet as sugar. The only known side effect to consuming this sugar alternative is that taking large amounts of this compound can cause digestive issues, bloating and gas because our body is unable to digest some of its unique properties.

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar monk fruit

Monk fruit
Natural sweeteners extracted from monk fruit are over 100 times sweeter than sugar, but contains zero calories. Not only does it not spike the body’s insulin levels, it also contains useful anti-oxidants and helps reduce inflammation in the body. It ranks as one of the best healthier sugar alternatives for use in beverages and snacks, especially for those who are on calorie-restricted diets such as keto diet and intermittent fasting. 

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar raw honey

Raw honey
Although raw organic honey contains a lower glycemic value than sugar, it is much sweeter. It is also contains antibacterial properties and anti-oxidants that fight against free radicals caused by excess sugar in the blood. Though it will not raise blood sugar levels as quickly as refined sweeteners, it does contain 64kcal per tbsp, which is as much as nutritionists would recommend per day.

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar coconut sugar (2)

Coconut sugar
A popular alternative for baking is unrefined organic non-GMO coconut sugar. It features the same texture as sugar but scores lower on the glycemic index. It also doesn’t cause a spike in insulin levels and helps to avoid that drop in energy that imbibing on refined sugars typically result in. Though it contains 54kcals per tbsp, it also offers high levels of potassium and electrolytes. 

gafencu wellness well being Natural sweeteners Healthier alternatives to sugar dates

Dates
A lesser known substitute for sugar in desserts such as cakes and brownies are dates — fruits from palm trees. It is high in fibre and potassium, and helps regulate sugar intake in the body, thereby slowing the body’s absorption of sugar into the body. It contains 20kcal per date and scores low on the glycemic index, making it an ideal alternative for those on raw-food and vegan diets.

Waist-Busters: Don’t let Lunar New Year lunching widen your waistline…

There’s no getting round it – Chinese New Year celebrations are wholly synonymous with indulgence. With countless family dinners and sundry refreshment-heavy reunions looming, the inevitable – and seemingly never-ending – parade of pastries, cornucopia of confectionery and maelstrom of meat could see even the worthiest of wellness aficionados piling on the kilos faster than a pre-grudge match sumo.

With a little bit of pre-planning, however, you can dodge the worst consequences of the festive feasting and ensure that the Year of the Rat doesn’t become your personal Year of the Fat…

wellness

FOOD

  • The 80:20 rule: To maintain a balanced diet, it’s important you opt for healthy food choices 80 percent of the time. With regard to the remaining 20 percent, feel free to indulge to the max (This is not like carbon trading. You can’t, say, inherit your nephew’s 20 percent in exchange for a balloon).
  • Switch ingredients: An easy way to cut back on the calories is to replace refined, processed ingredients with organic alternatives when preparing your Chinese New Year feast. Not only will they have a lower sugar content, you won’t be tempted to eat too many of them as they will taste awful.
  • Smart snacking: To avoid overeating when mealtime rolls around, tuck into small portions of healthy snacks – such as fruits and nuts – in between times. For added convenience, Cadbury’s produces a widely-available Fruit & Nut Bar. While the bite-sized versions can be easily stashed in pockets or sentimental lockets, the bigger bars are best hidden behind slumbering elderly relatives, a solution that combines easy access with maximum deniability.

wellness

FITNESS

  • Get outside: With so many social obligations, you may be tempted to remain inside for the whole of the holiday but force yourself into an extended peramble in the brisk outdoor air. Not only will you burn off a few calories, it will also take you out of reaching distance of the dumpling tray.
  • Maintain regular workouts: The ceaseless feasting may make the widening of your waistline perceivable in real-time. To counter this, try scheduling a workout or two. Or just tell everyone you have, then slip off to watch the new Star Wars unmolested. That’s good too.

wellness

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Hide-and-Steak: Velo unveils heavenly, hearty Italian cuisine at K11 MUSEA

It is no exaggeration to say the Italian fine-dining options available in Hong Kong can more than match up in authenticity and fulsome flavours when compared to any top restaurant, including many dineries in Italy itself. With hundreds of the country’s chefs calling the Fragrant Harbour their home, there is no dearth of delicacies from any part of this Mediterranean country, be it white truffles from Alba or Florentine steaks from Tuscany.

Given the more-than-adequate representation of this particular cuisine within the city – from takeaway eateries to multi-Michelin-starred restaurants – one may question the efficacy of opening another such cuisinary in Hong Kong.

However, Velo Italian Bar & Grill, the newest such noshery to be unveiled comes with the highest of credentials. Part of Gaia Group, the force behind such restaurants as Isola and Gaia Ristorante (to name but two), Velo marks the group’s first foray into K11 MUSEA, a new museum-and-retail complex in Victoria Dockside.

Rather revelling in the aptness of its name – whose meaning in Italian is hidden or veiled – Velo is tucked away in a corner of the shopping mall, a quiet, hidden sanctuary where food, art and culinary experiences all culminate. On entering, one is greeted by plush interiors in subtle tones of sage, mahogany and black that are at once welcoming and luxurious. This feeling of warmth intensifies further on perusing the menu. Combining the freshest ingredients and culinary expertise, the chefs at Velo have come up with dishes that make the best of the land-meets-sea approach.

Eager to try it out firsthand, we dove right into our tasting, with the first course, Insalata di Astice, being an invigorating mix of Boston lobster, orange, lettuce, celery and red onion doused with lemon vinaigrette to create a mix of tangy, sweet acidity that immediately piques the appetite.

Italian fine-dining
Insalata di Astice

The next dish, however, caused some slight confusion on our part as it approached tablewards, because while we were expecting Crema di Funghi e Tartufo Nero, a mushroom soup, what was served resembled a cappuccino more than a broth, complete with frothy foam. It was only when the server sprinkled truffle shavings on top and explained that it was indeed mushroom soup hidden under the milk foam that understanding dawned and we reached out for the first spoonful. And one spoonful is all it took for us to fall headlong in love with the rich, creamy brew, with its generous portion of truffles spreading warmth through every fibre of our being.

Italian fine-dining
Crema di Funghi e Tartufo Nero

Equally wholesome was the next truffle dish, the Pizza al Tartufo Nero, with cheese, leafy vegetables and black truffle – the simplest of ingredients – transforming it into the most sumptuous of dishes. With the softness of the pizza dough combining with the freshness of the seasonal greens and the earthiness of the truffles, this is perhaps honest-to-goodness Italian cuisine at its very best, without frills or trappings, allowing each ingredient to shine bright.

Italian fine-dining
Pizza al Tartufo Nero

This back-to-basics approach was again evident in the Spaghetti all’Astice, seafood pasta with Boston lobster and homemade tomato sauce with lobster bisque. Cooked in basil oil and garnished with basil leaves, it’s a dish where each element, be it the sweetness of the seafood, the tanginess of the sauce or the refreshing bite of the basil, combines to create a synergic, flavourful whole. The lobster, in particular, deserves a tip of the hat on its own merit, with its aroma and flavours underlining its sea-to-table freshness.

Moving on to the mains, the Bistecca di Tomahawk is as palate-pleasing – if not more so – than its precursors. Featuring Australian Wagyu beef, roasted potatoes, sautéed spinach and gravy sauce, the star turn is undoubtedly the bone-in Tomahawk ribeye, whose juices are locked in due to being cooked with the bone. The result is any meat-minded diner’s dream – succulent, tender beef that falls apart from the slightest pressure of the carving knife. However, at more than a kilogram in weight, it’s really meant for sharing, even though our heart may say otherwise. Perhaps, therein lies the secret to Velo’s success – plating up dishes that win our love and leave us craving for more.

Italian fine-dining
Bistecca di Tomahawk

Not so Poultry: The Best Takeaway Turkey Dinners for a Fuss-free Thanksgiving

You might be an American expat or you might be a born and bred Hongkonger looking for an excuse to party. Either way Thanksgiving is right around the corner and nothing shows gratitude to friends and family than hosting them for a proper turkey dinner. But cooking is a hassle and it can end up taking you away from the very people you’re trying to spend more time with. Gafencu has compiled a list of the best take-home Thanksgiving turkey dinners so that you can sit back and relax with your loved ones… and a glass of wine, of course!

Thanksgiving turkey

Big Sur
“The noblest ranch in Utah” has been busy at their smoker and is ready to bring you an applewood smoked turkey, parmesan and butter mashed potatoes, sourdough and apple stuffing casserole, roast carrot and kale salad, sour cream and a signature three-herb gravy. If you’ve still got room, then dig in to a slice of their family style pecan pie for afters. Big Sur is only serving up 30 of these so best hurry!
Serves 6 – 8
Available for pick up at: Staunton St, Kowloon and Lantau locations
Order by: 19 November
Price: HK$1600
Dine in option also available at Staunton St location from November 21 – 23
Order from events@woollypigconcepts.com.hk.

Thanksgiving turkey

JOIA
For an elegant and yet truly traditional thanksgiving feast, JOIA bar and lounge can supply turkey, mac & cheese, baked cauliflower, stuffed peppers and two kinds of mashed potatoes. If you’re still hankering for a taste of the USA, there’s even pumpkin pie for dessert. Even the fussiest of feasters will find something to please their palette. 
Serves 5 – 6
Available for pick up at JOIA bar and lounge, Roof Level Elements, Kowloon
7 days advance booking required
Price: HK$1680
Order at contactus@joia.co.hk

Thanksgiving turkey

Porterhouse
Famed for their steak and seafood Porterhouse are branching out to birds. Their comprehensive dinner includes a roast pumpkin starter followed by lemony turkey, bacon-fried brussels sprouts, green beans and spinach with shallot gravy, followed by a sumptuous pecan and pumpkin pie served with mascarpone and cointreau foam. You really couldn’t ask for more.
Serves 8 – 9
Available for pick up at Porterhouse, California tower, Central
Order by: 25 November
Price: HK$2328
Dine in option from 19 – 25 November
Order at porterhousehk.com

Thanksgiving turkey

city’super
Trust the favourite of Hong Kong denizens hunting for western cuisine to bring us the broadest possible range of Thanksgiving dinners – from traditional turkey and super traditional lobster to rule book-burning sushi platters. We love their “Best of city’super” package which features an organic UK sourced turkey, caviar, foie gras, a cooked seafood platter, a luxury selection of vegetables, a lobster bisque, cheese platter, a lemon peel cake and vintage Phillipe Gonet champagne. We might have a little trouble squeezing into our festive frocks but we think it’s worth it!
Serves 6 – 8
Available for pick up at: Harbour City Tsim Sha Tsui, ifc Mall Central, Times Square Causeway Bay and New Town Plaza Sha Tin
Order by: 19 December
Price: HK$7988
Order at online.citysuper.com.hk/

Text: Alice Duncan

Le Pan: A review of Kowloon Bay’s ritziest restaurant

Taste-testing Le Pan’s seven-course ‘Hedonist’s Lunch’ 

Kowloon Bay has been undergoing a major revitalisation in the last couple of decades since the old airport relocated to Lantau in 1998, exactly 20 years ago. Nowadays, however, when one thinks Kowloon Bay, the following might come to mind: the Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, concerts at KITEC, the red monstrosity that is MegaBox (Hong Kong’s biggest ice skating rink!) and maybe the cinema at Telford Gardens. 

How about the most opulent brunch you could possibly find this side of the harbour? 

Kowloon East has finally gotten its own swanky Saturday bubbles ritual by way of Le Pan’s elaborate Hedonist’s Lunch featuring seven courses of contemporary French cuisine in a positively palatial property effused with natural sunlight. 

Admittedly, we were not prepared for the grandeur that greeted us upon arriving at Le Pan, in the middle of a heretofore unexplored industrial-looking area of Kowloon Bay. Located on the ground floor of a brand spanking new skyscraper, this expansive restaurant extends over 10,000 square feet – a far cry from the tight spaces of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. 

One might feel a twinge of embarrassment, as we did, about not dressing up for such an impressive setting. But our nerves were quickly calmed upon meeting Herman Pang, Le Pan’s sincere and easygoing Assistant Manager. He even seemed genuinely curious about the hike we were planning to do after the lunch: the nearby “Suicide Cliff” on Kowloon Peak. 

After Pang introduced the menu to us, we were then familiarised with the drinks as presented by Lauri Vainio, Le Pan’s Finnish Wine Director and award-winning sommelier. That was the beginning of the day’s free-flow champagne: Jacques Picard “Le Chapitre” Brut NV. If you’re celebrating something as we were, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment for this indulgent menu. 

The meal started with a stomach-soothing chicken consommé followed by Royal Oscietra caviar in an oh-so-authentic tin; dig in and you’ll be rewarded with a satisfyingly salty Petuna ocean trout tartare. Crustacean lovers would love the fresh Fine de Claire oyster flown in from France, flavoured with the most subtle ginger vinaigrette. We got a taste of the sea, but it wasn’t overwhelming; texture was impeccable. 

The seafood continues with the Blue lobster ‘piperade’, a concoction of arroz bomba grains and calamari: equal parts crispy, foamy and chewy. For the main course, you can choose between a lightly spiced Hapuka fish and jumbo prawns; Picalou French yellow chicken and Hokkaido scallop; or USDA Prime onglet ‘Bordelaise’. We went with the first and last dishes.

The ocean grouper didn’t quite melt in the mouth, but the prawn made up for where the white Hapuka was lacking. We had no complaints about the steak, which came in rich and filling cuts of tender beef with duxelles pureé (mushrooms) and grelot (pearl) onions.

And last but not least, dessert: the Tropical ‘rum baba’. If you’re a chocolate person, this might not be your cup of tea, but after such a heavy meal you might appreciate the fruity zing and spongey cake. There’s also a weighty cheese selection for those who prefer savoury to sweet.

If one day you find yourself in the vicinity of Kowloon Bay and feel like treating yourself to a stately experience, there is only one place to go. Complimentary valet parking beckons to those with wheels coming from the New Territories and don’t want to get stuck in downtown traffic. For the more centrally located, however, you would have to exhaust the champagne brunches closer to home before heading further afield to this rare gem in Kowloon East. 

Le Pan’s Hedonist Lunch is available every Saturday, from noon until 3:30 p.m at HK$980 per head. Ground Floor, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk

 

Written by: Julienne C. Raboca

FRANCIS brings Tel Avivian food culture to Wan Chai

2018 is looking to be a strong year for Hong Kong’s F&B scene with so many new restaurant openings in the first month alone – FRANCIS in Wan Chai being one of them. The neighbourhood hangout opened its doors on January 22 in the up-and-coming St Francis Yard section of Wan Chai (just down the road from Pici). 

The airy 30-seater concept celebrates Tel Aviv’s vibrant food culture with curated wines and an inspired menu of mezes. As soon as I heard about it, I immediately booked a girls’ dinner to get the 411. Tel Aviv is one of my favourite cities in the world for many reasons, and the cuisine stands out in my memory as the best of any trip I’ve ever done. (Read: 10 Reasons Why Tel Aviv Should Be Your Next Holiday)

Stuffed Mussels (HK$110)

Refreshingly, FRANCIS is not ‘just another brand’ adding to the roster of some big dining group. It’s the first venture for a trio of young entrepreneurs led by James Ward, former manager at successful venues Aqua, Zafran and The Ocean in Repulse Bay. His partners are Israeli-born chef Asher Goldstein and sommelier Simone Sammuri.

Goldstein, a native of Tel Aviv, crafted a seasonal menu of shared plates using organic produce in addition to fresh seafood and vegetables. In fact, the night we came we dined meatless: Baked Halloumi with pomegranate molasses and wild oregano (HK$120), Smoked Carrots with almond and spiced honey (HK$90), Cauliflower with yogurt and tarragon (HK$80) and Raw Tuna with kohlrabi, anchovy and tomato (HK$140). 

Ward, Goldstein and Sammuri

Grilled Octopus with harissa, burgul potato cake (HK$140)

If I were to go back, I would try the Hummus (HK$80), Falafel (HK$50) and Sweet Potato with paprika and feta (HK$90); they ran out of the latter when we were there. For dessert, we had a delicious modern take on the Palestinian knafeh, a crispy pastry with melting mozzarella inside topped with orange blossom and pistachio (HK$80). This one was definitely one of my favourites at Shuk Ha’Carmel.

Word of warning: I was eating with a girlfriend and neither of us has much of an appetite, but we had to order at least five plates between the two of us (dessert included). We had to shell out around HK$450 each in the end (counting the wine), which is no small price to pay for only half-filling our stomachs. 

Baked Halloumi cheese – excellent! (HK$120)

What should you expect at FRANCIS? Refined versions of your Tel Avivian classics in tiny portions. The wine selection, on the other hand, is altogether another matter: the vintages are excellent and you can get a bottle of red from HK$180.

FRANCIS is definitely a great place to catch up with friends over casual bites and drinks (we loved the vibe!), but for a sit down dinner I would recommend eating somewhere else (first). Shalom!

FRANCIS G/F, 4 & 6, St. Francis Street, Wan Chai (852) 3101 9521 hello@francis.com.hk www.francis.com.hk facebook.com/francishkrestaurant/ instagram.com/francishongkong/