Tag: Fiji

Heaven & High Water: Blessed with gorgeous lagoons and resplendent reefs, Fiji is a paradise for marine adventurers

Fiji is a breathtakingly beautiful collection of 333 islands in the South Pacific exuding such warmth and charm that even a fleeting visit will be a memorable experience. For the outdoors enthusiast, it is paradise on land and sea, from superb hiking to mid-ocean surfing. Some isles offer sumptuous high-end tourism as fabulous resorts spill out into tranquil and dazzling sapphire-blue waters. Here, scuba diving and snorkelling promise the possibility of encounters with sharks, manta rays, colourful fish and diving through magical cave complexes. On the main island of Viti Levu, the capital Suva is a thriving cosmopolitan melting pot of great restaurants, nightlife and cultural attractions.

About two-thirds of Fiji’s islands are uninhabited, and a population of just over 900,000 primarily comprises indigenous people of Melanesian and Polynesian extraction, Indo-Fijians of Indian origin, Chinese, and those of mixed Fijian-European ancestry. A vast proportion of land remains tribally owned, and there are many communal villages where locals have a subsistence lifestyle. English is an official language and spoken by most Fijians alongside their mother tongue.

The best time to visit Fiji is undoubtedly during the dry season between May and October, when temperatures hover around 25°C by day and southerly trade winds tame the heat of the months at the turn of the year.

Island resorts

Fiji is one of the best places in the world to indulge in a pampered getaway. There are a slew of magnificent private islands where it is possible to remove yourself from social contact to the utmost extent and elegant resorts that transport you to a haven of unending luxury concealed behind a veil of natural wonder. These retreats are ideal for honeymooners looking for a romantic escape and couples requiring quality time together, or those simply seeking glorious solitude.

Guests arriving at upscale property may be welcomed by a group of locals performing a meke – a traditional dance that folds in storytelling through song to make a spectacular show.

The Mamanuca Islands located off the west coast of Viti Levu boast some of the country’s best hotels and resorts, sublime beaches and tiny coral cays – a plethora of gorgeous gold and green strips of land dabbed onto radiant blue waters by the painter’s brush. Spectacular and vibrant corals glisten in the depths below and brightly coloured fish gleam under an azure sky.

Conviviality is guaranteed on Malolo and Mana, the two busiest and most popular islands here. To get away from the crowds and enjoy quiet time with your partner, head to Tadrai Island Resort, an adults-only, all-inclusive retreat on the secluded eastern coast of Mana.

Malolo is the biggest island in the Mamanucas and offers a wide variety of accommodation and levels of luxury. Malolo Island Resort invites with a string of exciting experiences such as snorkelling, diving and line fishing, as well as dolphin-watching safaris, hiking trips to the island’s hilltop and Fijian cooking lessons, followed by the chance to relax at the fabulous terrace restaurant with a cool cocktail. Other premium resorts promising supreme exclusivity are Likuliku Lagoon, an enclave of overwater villas in an isolated bay, and the private island Wadigi Lodge, set on a tiny outcrop.

Shore leave

Year-round calm oceans make the Mamanucas the perfect spot for yacht chartering and cruising. An abundance of operators provide a wide array of outings, ranging from sunset dinner cruises with Champagne and lobster to overnight jaunts on a schooner. Fishing tours offer the chance to catch and cook the big ones that didn’t get away – think trevally and tuna found in deep water beyond the reefs.
World-class surfing beckons in the far south of these islands. At Cloudbreak, the most iconic site not far from Tavarua, dramatic waves are created by water being pushed up along steep and lengthy shallow reefs. Boat trips offer non-surfers the exhilarating experience of admiring these amazing mid-sea break points from a position of safety.

Excursions to private islands offer unparalleled opportunities to snorkel in freshwater lagoons, and perhaps sip kava, the national drink for special occasions, during a traditional ceremony. For a different taste of the wild, Cloud 9 is a two-level pontoon on a turquoise lagoon where a thrilling party atmosphere is succoured by Italian wood-fired pizzeria and a well-stocked bar.

The placid currents and amazing visibility of the waters around the Mamanucas are ideal for water sports. Notable dive sites ideal for beginners include Bird Rock, a resplendent reef dropping down 40 metres featuring caves and spectacular swim-throughs; Fish Market where schools of vibrant marine life circle around coral reefs; Gotham City with its peculiar-looking batfish, and the wreck of the Salamanda, which forms an artificial reef replete with pufferfish.

Some scuba aficionados hail Beqa Lagoon, located about 12 kilometres south of the Viti Levu town of Pacific Harbour, as the best site on earth for open-water shark diving. This protected area teems with up to eight species of sharks including the reef, silvertip, tawny nurse and sicklefin lemon, and the occasional fearsome bull shark. The gorgeous soft corals of Rainbow Reef off the south coast of Fiji’s other large island, Vanua Levu, set the underwater scene for superb drift diving.

For visitors with an unbridled sense of adventure, there are also opportunities to paddle around the Fijian islands on sea-kayaking expeditions and stay overnight at remote fishing villages. Away from the coast, explore the mystical Namosi Highlands on Viti Levu and go whitewater river rafting.

Walks on the wild side

Fiji is blessed with a host of eco-resorts where the joys of nature can be enjoyed at a more leisurely pace. At Como Laucala Island, for instance, a luxurious retreat occupying a private island surrounded by luscious blue Melanesian waters, guided hikes through dense ancient tropical forest can be taken to spy rare exotic birds. Other exclusive treats include horse riding; spending a night in seclusion on an uninhabited island; participating in a water purification ceremony at a sacred temple; and night snorkelling among corals with UV torches to create a stunning light show.

You don’t have to stay on an elite private island to experience excellent hiking. Some of the best walks can be found on Taveuni, where a national park offers fantastic forest trails. A hike on Ovalau can take the intrepid explorer into the crater of an extinct volcano. Willing walkers can also wend their way through quaint villages in the interior highlands of Viti Levu.

Savouring Suva

The country’s present-day capital offers a slice of tropical town life in the South Pacific and the chance to view relics of its colonial history. A visit to the Fiji Museum is a must, where the eclectic range of exhibits includes killing stones, cannibal forks and the soles of the shoes of the Reverend Thomas Baker, an English missionary who was devoured by cannibals in 1867. Indeed, Fiji’s cannibal past is a source of deep fascination for many visitors.

Compared with the old capital, Levuka, which has a much sleepier vibe, Suva not only has the best shopping, it also puts on the best entertainment. The most hyped bars and clubs can be found around MacArthur Street and Victoria Parade, where the sister establishments of Shenanigans Nightclub and O’Reilly’s Bar are popular draws for party animals on the prowl for cool dance beats; they are hotspots for pours of the local brews, particularly Fiji Bitter and Fiji Gold.

The food found in Fiji is enriched by a preponderance of cultures and influences, resulting in enticing spreads of iTaukei (traditional local fare), Chinese, Indian, Polynesian and European dishes, plus fusions of all these flavours. Fruit and vegetables feature strongly in modern Fijian cuisine, with home-grown papayas, mangoes and avocados particularly popular.

Kanu, a gastropub helmed by Australian chef Lance Seeto, offers great seafood and meat in Fijian and international preparations enhanced by the inviting ambience of its bungalow setting. Local favourite Eden is a multi-cuisine restaurant serving premium meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Delicious Indian vegetarian and non-vegetarian staples entice at Maya Dhaba, another much-loved Suva dining institution.

Taveuni: This remote, idyllic island is Fiji at its very finest

Nestled serenely in  the very bluest part of the Pacific Ocean are the exquisite Fiji Islands, 333 of them all told. While some are big enough to house the largest city the region has to offer, some are so small that they are little more than sandbars. Amid such splendour and variety, one particular promontory – Taveuni – has emerged at the very forefront of the local luxury tourism industry. Appropriately enough, it was actually the first of the Fiji Islands to be discovered by the outside world.

Taveuni is the third-largest island in Fiji

This initial contact came in 1643 when a Dutch expedition bound for Australia made landfall there, though it was to be the Brits who commanded sovereignty here for nearly 100 years (1874-1970). Independent since 1970, the economy of the islands is largely propped up by its exports of cane sugar and coconut derivatives. However, recent years have seen their earnings wholly dwarfed by Fiji’s burgeoning tourist receipts. This is, perhaps, because the islanders are just so unbelievably hospitable.

Taveuni locals are unbelievably welcoming and hospitable

From your concierge to your dive instructor, the warmth of the welcome goes well beyond the professional, impressing with the kind of sincerity seldom seen in most tourism-reliant nations. As a result, you may well find yourself greeted as a long-lost friend and gently nudged towards “Fiji Time” – a pace of life far more relaxation-oriented than that found in the bustling mega-cities of China.

It is, however, the perfect tempo for savouring Taveuni’s famously sandy beaches, lush foliage, clean air and abundant fresh, local produce. All in all, even the most stressed-out urban refugee couldn’t help but be won over by the island’s beguiling views, fine food, memorable music and ever-friendly Fijian welcome.

Aside from tranquil waters, Taveuni boasts verdant landscapes

Rightly rejoicing in its reputation as the Garden Island, Taveuni is actually the third-largest landmass in this archipelago nation, while also being one of the least densely populated. A lush green jungle intertwined around hidden waterfalls and encircled by soft white sandy beaches, the island is, at heart, a truly multisensory treat.

Given its proximity to the legendary Somosomo Strait – rightly regarded as “the soft coral capital of the world” – Taveuni has always been a popular choice among scuba enthusiasts. Here, professionals and novices alike can also swim their way around the Great White Wall, an almost vertical 30-foot stretch of soft white coral.

Taveuni boasts prime scuba diving locales

As well as the coral and anemones that are unique to this part of the world, more familiar creatures can also be found in Fiji’s surrounding depths. The nearby Mamanuca Islands, for instance, are home to a sizable colony of Pacific green turtles. As an officially endangered species, as well as one revered in Fijian culture, dive guides are always on hand to ensure these graceful long-lived amphibians remain undisturbed by curious holidaymakers. Indeed, you may be glad of their presence later when a blacktip or whitetip reef shark suddenly glides by. Rest assured, though, these relatively small (1.6 metres) members of the shark family seldom dine on divers.

For the aquatically averse, there are any number of non-oceanic sights to be seen – not least the Bouma National Heritage Park. Home to more than 100 species of exotics birds and rare insects, here you can trek over bridges and through thick jungle canopies to your heart’s content. Don’t miss the captivating Tavaro waterfalls – they’re pretty much what Instagram was invented for.

Kokoda, a refreshing Fijian dish found in Taveuni

The requisite sight-seeing completed, there is really one thing left to do – dine, preferably in truly-luxurious, finely-prepared, locally-cuisined style. As with any island nation, fish features heavily in the typical Fijian diet, with kokoda (ko-kon-da) the must-try menu item of choice. Served as a cold soup, this genuinely delicious combination of coconut milk, lime juice, capsicum and white fish is the ideal pick-me-up after a long day of diving or hiking, or even if you have just been lazing on the beach. Essentially, it’s a central Pacific take on ceviche and in what world could that be a bad thing?

After exploring your fill, relax on a Taveuni beach with a cocktail in hand

Then, as the night draws in, it’s only right to complete your cultural immersion by sampling as many of the tropical cocktails on offer as your following morning’s itinerary will allow. Maybe even one or two more than would be strictly wise. Glass in hand, swaying to the arresting rhythms of one of the island’s many musicians, you truly are on Fiji Time and who in their right mind would set their watch to anything but?

Text: Alice Duncan
Photos: AFP, Alice Duncan