Heart & Sole: The shoe fits KIBO’s Natalie Chow very well as she kick-starts zero-waste Hong Kong retailing

In the vibrant city of Hong Kong, where consumerism has long been synonymous with high-rises and luxury malls, one woman is revolutionising the shopping landscape by infusing sustainability into the heart of retail. Natalie Chow, the visionary co- founder of sustainable sneaker-maker KIBO (K!BO in branding parlance), is leading the charge to redefine the shopping experience, placing environmental consciousness at the forefront.

From the get-go, it was important to Chow that her marketing and message did not make consumers feel bad about their shopping and lifestyle choices while offering them a guilt-free planet-friendly alternative. The savvy businesswoman is aware that there are a lot of unexpected implications associated with the food, clothing and accessories we use and own – consequences that affect not just animals but also society and the environment. She is keen to stress that the objective isn’t guilt, even when discussing the appalling circumstances people endure in fast-fashion factories or the catastrophic effects of animal husbandry on the planet.

“I was always drawn to beautiful things and advertising was actually what I really wanted to get into; hence, I started studying marketing,” says the University of Melbourne alumnus. “I did both marketing and psychology, which are extremely correlated. I think the human brain is fascinating, and quite often we make irrational choices, and I wanted to understand how people make choices every day, and what influences them to do so.”

Equal footing

Chow chooses to wear independent brands for our shoot, as a way to support the local creative scene. Arriving back from a 4-hour Singapore-to-Hong Kong flight, she looks fresh and ready to pose in the hallways of PMQ, where fellow start-up projects and businesses reside.

“Was I there for Taylor Swift? I wish!” she exclaims, breaking into laughter. “But no, I was in Singapore for a sneaker convention. The sneaker world is still a man- dominated industry – surprise, surprise! When I started my own business, I realised how big of a gender gap there is out there in other industries, especially in the start-up space.”

Denim top and skirt by Vincent Li Studio & sneakers by KIBO

While the majority of sneaker firms were started by men, KIBO was conceived, is run, and the products are designed, by women. Men have long controlled the shoe industry, which is reflected in the preponderance of masculine designs and styles. Conversely, KIBO was created with a heavy emphasis on equality, which is understandable given that it is backed by a sizable female community.

Green path

Chow’s journey towards becoming a trailblazer in sustainable fashion is rooted in her early life and background. Born in Hong Kong, she and her two sisters were raised in Australia by their mother, and she developed a deep appreciation for the unique blend of culture, energy and commerce in the city they lived in. She traces her connection with nature back to her childhood, recalling that she separated the household recyclables from the age of seven.

“I believe this is a journey for myself, and for everyone out there too,” she says. “When I started there was no such thing as ESG (environmental, social and governance) and now it’s mandatory for many companies. The framework and the bar have become clearer over the years, so in both the corporate world and schools, there are standards to comply with and a goal to achieve. As for myself, I have learnt the different credentials in material sourcing, GRS (Global Recycled Standard), BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative), FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and so on, and how to make decisions in production.”

Driven by a desire to effect change, Chow dedicated herself to understanding the complexities of sustainability in fashion. She immersed herself in extensive research, exploring alternative materials, ethical production methods and the concept of circular fashion. Through her studies and personal experiences, she realised she had a unique opportunity to create a brand that could challenge the status quo and inspire others to embrace sustainable fashion.


One step at a time

KIBO, meaning hope in Japanese, was founded in 2019 and was officially launched in 2020, with the goal of giving life and waste new hope. ‘Kind to the planet and kind to your feet’ is their promise, as Chow and her team employ materials that would otherwise end up in landfills, such as leather scraps from manufacturers, recovered post-consumer plastic waste, and most recently, imitation leather made from apple waste.

“I was on maternity leave when my husband [KIBO co-founder Simon Chow] and I started to brainstorm. At that time, we noticed there really was a gap as well as an opportunity in the sneakers space and I guess that’s how the seed was planted,” she recalls. Her husband’s family runs a shoe- manufacturing company.

“Moreover, as a mother of two, I wanted to pursue something meaningful and purposeful that my kids would grow up and be proud of. Sustainability has to encompass ethics and transparency, otherwise, it’s quite meaningless. Since we have an edge of having relevant backgrounds in this industry, we decided to take this leap of faith.”

As the introductory lines on the KIBO website spell out, ‘the ! is a reminder to do things differently. The fashion industry needs to change and tackle big issues such as climate change and modern slavery.

And that’s only possible if we adapt ourselves and unite as a community. Because we know that every small step goes a long way.’

Walk the walk

Through her brand’s ethical practices and commitment to transparency, she has successfully challenged the conventional notion that fashion and sustainability are incompatible. But she is far from settling, and will continue to improve.

“Problem-solving has been a skill that I was fortunate to have adopted with my previous work experiences, but being a brand founder has taken it to the next level just because we have problems to solve every single day. From production hiccups to liaising with partners, both soft skills and hard skills are required such as managing my own time and analytical skills,” she says.

T shirt by KIBO, skirt by Vincent Li Studio & sneakers by KIBO

By making conscious consumerism accessible and stylish, KIBO has inspired a broader movement towards a more sustainable future for Hong Kong’s retail industry. Its success serves as a testament to the power of idealists to effect meaningful change, reminding us that a person can go into an industry they are passionate about without compromising their beliefs.

As Chow emphasises throughout our conversation, sustainability and style can indeed go hand in hand. But behind it all is a drive to connect with consumers through her shoes. She considers fashion a service industry. When she’s working on a collection, she is thinking about how a KIBO piece should make you feel: confident, comfortable, alive and effortless.

“It’s timely that this is for the April issue,” she says, her eyes lighting up. “Earth Month; let’s do it right!”

Interview, Text and Art Direction by: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Brands: KiBO and Vincent Li Studio

Crack of Bloom: Cong Tri Spring/Summer 2024 redefines avant garde clothing

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Glamour Quotient: Daywear practicality meets couture glamour in Elie Saab’s Pre-Fall 2024

The collection exhibits a well-considered balance that is reminiscent of Elie Saab’s own American style, deftly navigating between high fashion and fundamentals. Envisioning the essence of the 1970s, the assortment offers an abundance of choices for casual attire, showcasing asymmetrical shirts, fitted jumpsuits, peplum jackets, midi dresses, and a noteworthy item called the “Elie Saab pajama” — a set of pleated shirt and pants. Saab’s commitment to catering to the varied demands of its affluent customer base is seen in its focus on maintaining basic yet attractive forms.

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Faille Elegance: Zuhair Murad Pre-Fall 2024 is all about striking embroideries and prints

With his Pre-Fall 2024 collection, Zuhair Murad once again enthralls the fashion world with his unmatched ability to work magic with fabric. Murad continues to push the frontiers of haute couture, finding inspiration in the fleeting beauty of butterflies and the enigmatic allure of the night. He uses gossamer forms, gothic-tinged mystery, and vivid hues to create a symphony that blends in with the evening vibe in this collection.

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Fashion Conscience: Vipop founder Lenia Pérez radiates sustainability vibes while joyfully revealing her second pregnancy

Lenia Pérez is one of the best-dressed women in the city, in part because she’s so willing to try everything. “I’ve prepared a total of 19 outfits for us to play around with, but I’m not sure if some of them still fit me,” laughs the Latin American fashion entrepreneur, rubbing her four-month baby bump with just a slight touch of embarrassment.

It’s an unconventional pregnancy announcement – and a surprising moment of awkwardness for someone who photographs so well and telegraphs such confidence. Whether she’s going to the gym or the hottest parties, her style is obsessively chronicled.

Embarrassment, though, is different from regret. “I’m never afraid to try anything,” affirms Pérez, who is thrilled to be expecting her second child with husband Ziad Korban. “I think that just goes to show that there’s a moving evolution in my style. It just keeps growing” – like her baby bump – “which is kind of how I want to be in all areas of life.”

Black Flora Deep V Maxi Dress by Daniella Batlle Earrings by Vipop

It takes a certain sort of boldness and a certain level of shimmering magnitude to establish your own time zone, especially while being pregnant. Yet the co-founder and CEO of Vipop, a Hong Kong-based sustainable fashion brand, has done just that. It’s exactly 8:45 am on a typical Hong Kong gloomy Monday, yet Pérez is all set for a day of photoshoot and interview. Her ease and her vibrant full smile suggest this is all very normal and time really is just a construct.

From the get-go, she also expresses her opinion on maternity wear: “I’m hoping that we are able to redefine what’s considered ‘decent’ for pregnant women. I am proud of my body for the amazing things it’s doing right now. Minus the morning sickness, I think I am at my happiest. Heels during pregnancy? Go for it. Who made such rules anyways?”

Sustainable values

As a self-confessed collector, Pérez travels to fashion shows across South and Central America in search of resort-wear designers to represent, pinpointing those whom she believes will appeal to Asian customers. What started as an internet business with co-founder and fellow Venezuelan Fabiana González, now occupies a cosy white shop called Artezano by Vipop and is reaching customers in the US and Europe.

Her parents are artisans, so she has always liked fashion and handicrafts. Additionally, clothing created by Latin American designers, who historically use sustainable weaving and dyeing methods, felt appropriate for a market where ethical consciousness is growing in importance.

Red Percy Dress by Palma Canaria

“Vipop brings together a community of international designers making bags, jewellery and clothing in unique designs like the ones I’m wearing,” she says. “Our designers take care of the ethical or eco-friendly values behind the pieces and we also take care of the value of each piece. So it’s this community we’re building in the new fashion industry. We’re offering new ways to be sustainable. It’s not just ‘sustainable’; it can be very fun too.”

Vipop builds partnerships based on sustainability practice. Designers and collaborators are chosen by the effort they put into one or more of the following clean fashion criteria: handmade, locally produced, carbon neutral, use of vegan or organic materials, low waste, longevity, recycled materials and fair wage.

Damage limitation

“It’s very important to put attention to how the pieces we buy are actually made, who is making them and how it affects our environment, the community around us and the planet, because we can see so much damage in the world from the fashion industry. This is something very special for me and all the team, and this is why we selected this subject to build a fashion brand and e-commerce platform.”

Black Cher dress cut pleated skirt with top by Nabel Martins

This combination of focused strategy with faith in humanity and the occasional flight of fancy seems a winning formula, especially when matched by an unstinting gusto for whatever challenges her fashion career or an impending new addition to the family will throw at her.

Calming vibes

Despite her hypermodern appearance, not to mention the permanent arts on her skin, her style is very traditional. As seen on her Instagram, whether it’s a friend’s wedding or a trip abroad, she creates distinct ‘vibes’ (to use her favourite phrase) for each occasion. Indeed, her process is true fashion-icon behaviour.

“We’re still right on time. I cannot emphasise more the importance of working with the right people. It will really get the job done and produce output that you want to have,” she reflects as she changes for look no.9.

Pérez seems unfazed by the fame in the fashion world she is currently experiencing. She is seemingly without ego: calm and reflective with a slightly starry professional glow that makes her the ability to inhabit someone else’s mind look easy. During and in between takes, she is compellingly unselfconscious.

“But that’s the work of it,” she shares. “In reality, you have to be aware of what you’re feeling, what the team in the room is feeling. Once the camera clicks, you have this third level of awareness – your mark, the light and which way you should be facing. And it’s like you are constantly having to juggle those three things the whole time. She pauses and adds knowingly: “Pretty much like pregnancy huh?”

Dressed to express

Fashion for her is about the moments of pure enjoyment, of just letting go to the point that she can be surprised. It represents the most acute version of fun. “Which is why I love it so much. It’s my playground. I love it,” she admits giddily.

Emiliana pants and bared back top in paillette by Nabel Martins

“Clothes allow us to show off our unique personalities. Many of us care about how we seem in public, which is cool and just right. But some of us experience pressure to follow the newest trends in fashion,” she reminds, throwing in a note of caution.

Mother load

One trend she is happy to embrace is her pregnancy. These days, the word ‘Mother’, without the preceding article, is present everywhere, as not just a regular word but a colloquial term and part of this generation’s slang; fans, brands and occasionally even mums themselves use it. It is also affectionately applied to prominent women who have a devoted following. And Pérez is surely mothering the fashion game.

Blue one sleeve cut out dress by Baobab Accessories by Vipop

“My body is going through so many changes again, but I ’ve grown to respect it so much that I look past the physical. I fully embrace it for serving a much deeper purpose, something far bigger than myself and anything I ever gave it credit for. I’m so grateful for, and amazed by, what my body is capable of,” she states, flashing a smile.

At the end of our shoot, she swaps her stilettos for platformed boots, saying with a wink: “It’s time to be more comfortable.” Whatever tomorrow brings, Lenia Pérez will have the right attitude – and look – to take it on.

Interview, Text & Art Direction: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Venue: Qura Bar – Regent Hong Kong Brands: Daniella Batlle, Baobab, Nabel Martins and Vipop

Madam Butterflies: Novel Fineries’ founder June Lau frames fading art heritage into new glories

First, she won a scholarship to study product design engineering at Loughborough University in England, and it was there that she tasted early success – landing a James Dyson Foundation bursary to help get the medical device she conceived up and running. Having founded a product design consultancy, Above Blue Design, back in Hong Kong in 2015, her wearable art company, Novel Fineries, sprang into life the following year after she won a design competition held by luxury retailer Lane Crawford.

The Novel Fineries flagship store is now ensconced in a wing of the luxurious Peninsula Hotel, from where she talks animatedly about how her roots nurtured her love for the beauty and aesthetics of products and accessories.

Sleep saver

That Lau has achieved so much just a decade out of university is perhaps down to oodles of self- confidence, which she attributes to going off to boarding school aged just eight. She believes the experience toughened her up.

At Loughborough, she learnt how to design products as a whole, from coding the internal electronics, to building mould tools for mass production, to learning about aesthetics and the research process. Flashing one of her radiant smiles, she admits that possibly part of the attraction of this career was wanting to “save the world” with her designs. Her award-winning final- year design project was a product that positively conditions people with severe eczema not to scratch during sleep.

Design over fashion

Emanating verve and fresh elegance in a fetching green outfit, the youthful entrepreneur describes herself as a “go-getter” who loves to travel and absorb other cultures as she knows this is potentially a rich seam of artistic creativity.

Born in New York City and educated in the UK, Lau has done fashion-design jobs around the world, but found the fashion lifecycle too short and not sustainable; the lure of product design was more compelling.

After graduation, she returned to her family roots in Hong Kong. Within a couple of years, she was teaching CAD (computer-aided design) while working part-time with Above Blue, designing products for big brands as well as startups.

Art in the pocket

It was her independent-minded spirit and willingness to explore new artistic avenues ingrained since childhood that played a massive part in her big breakthrough – the creation of Novel Fineries.

At the time she was travelling to China a lot to visit factories. “One time in Suzhou, I saw a group of ladies on the side of the street doing double- sided embroidery and soon became friends with them,” she says, explaining that she was fascinated by the intricacy of their handiwork, a time-honoured technique that produces identical stitching strokes on both sides of the silk.

Thinking it would make an original gift for her then-boyfriend, she asked the women to make a piece in her own design. It featured butterflies in the form of pocket art.

Soon after, Lau sent these embroidered butterflies to the Lane Crawford Creative Call Out – a competition for young local designers. “We could go and pitch our product to the buyers and get a chance to be selected and sold in their stores,” she says. “I took along this pocket art and we won. And the next thing I know, they wanted to put our products in their stores and the Hong Kong government included us in design tradeshows abroad. So that was when Novel Fineries really started.”

Boyfriend butterflies

Each piece of her pocket art represents a butterfly species through the use of exquisite embroidery and the exact colour of paint, with every detail of the insect painstakingly replicated including the pattern of the veins and the velvety-fur textures on its wings. “Each species can only be produced once because the double-sided embroidery can only be done by one person, and I do the silk hand- painting myself,” she notes.

“To mimic the veins and transparency of the butterfly wings to the best of my ability, I studied to become a lepidopterist, learning where they feed and how they migrate. Each butterfly has its own origin story to share and its unique traits in nature.”

Novel Fineries’ first collection of Pocket Art spans 50 species of Amazonian butterflies. “I used to love the saying ‘You give me butterflies’ [when thinking of a loved one],” says Lau of their inspiration. “This is the whole concept of the pocket art. It is worn on the left-hand side of the suit over the heart. And so, as a gift, it’s a little resemblance of my love in a suit jacket.”

She regards Pocket Art as one of her best creations to date. “It is a piece that has no lifecycle, it follows no trend; it is a symbol of how Novel Fineries blossomed in colour and the finest materials,” she says.

It serves as a contemporary showcase for Su embroidery, a 2,000-year-old heritage art form originating from Suzhou, China, renowned for the elegance, rich colour and variety of its silk-thread stitching. This double-sided stitching process is also used for the Pin Art collection of handmade butterflies astride a gold pin that fastens behind the lapel.

Heritage mission

“China possesses so much knowledge and hidden artisans in heritage art forms and I became obsessed with searching for lost art and these people who mastered the craft,” says Lau, who reveals that 30 percent of the company’s profits is given to training the next generation of artisans.

In some ways, it has become her mission to preserve fading art forms around the world. “Each piece at Novel Fineries is a union of lost heritage craft integrated with my design ideas. Much of the craft we use is diminishing, lost even through time.”

Art and nature

All of Novel’s designs are handmade, handcrafted and unique. They are influenced by nature and integrate heritage art forms. “The Obi Knot uses untouched silks from 200-300 years ago, the threads were hand-loomed and tied by Obi masters in Kyoto. The Serpentine Knot uses Italian leather-braiding techniques, and the fine jewellery is hand-carved from wax,” she says of her collections of bow ties and snake-head-tipped braids that can adorn the neck or waist.

Lau creates a world of beauty and magic that comes to life. She is particularly inspired by butterflies and snakes because they have the ability to morph and transform into a stronger self.

No doubt there are many more chapters of inspired creations to come from Novel Fineries. “Novel means a book, right? So, a book of many chapters, and in each chapter, we talk about a different heritage art form,” she states proudly. “I hope Novel Fineries is a storybook that brings joy to the people who read it and wear it.”

Interview and Text by: Neil Dolby Art Direction: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Venue: The Peninsula Boutique & Cafe Brands: Magda Butrym, Safiyaa, Chanel & Off-White

Zest Players: Go all-out with the colour of year

reimagined and elevated.

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All images are A.I generated.

Stripes Universe: Lines, cut, colour and shapes for all

Start the year right with fresh lines, cuts, colours and shapes.

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All images are A.I generated.

The Great Fashion Shift: The CFDA Fashion Awards champions inclusivity while pinpointing designers’ power to shape society

Fashion is more than just fabric and style; it is a form of expression and an industry that constantly evolves. Each year, the CFDA Fashion Awards celebrates the pinnacle of creativity, innovation and talent in the American fashion world. It not only recognises outstanding achievements but also serves as a platform to highlight the importance of fashion and its transformative power.

“Fashion, like all creative acts, is a sign of culture, which is to say, a sign of life,” said actress Anne Hathaway, as she hosted the glittering 2023 awards presentation in New York last month. “The ability to express nuance with fabric is a gift you all possess which I value so deeply, and the ability to do so six times a year without repeating yourself and missing a beat? I’m in awe. Fashion is a dream we can all live in.”

The CFDA Fashion Awards honours creators in a wide range of categories, including Womenswear, Menswear, Accessories, Emerging Talent and Lifetime Achievement. The event has emerged as a definitive moment in the fashion calendar, where the crème de la crème of the US industry gathers to celebrate talent and ingenuity.

It was established in 1981 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), a non-profit trade association of more than 450 prominent American designers of jewellery, accessories, womenswear and menswear, whose main mission is to increase the influence of American fashion in the world economy. Annual nominees, honourees and winners are determined by the CFDA Awards Guild, which is comprised of CFDA members, leading fashion journalists, stylists and top retail executives.

Designer Diversity

Dubbed the ‘Oscars of the Fashion World’ due to their celebrity and model influence, this year’s gala celebrated and questioned the very definition of what it meant to be a designer, as well as the power of immigrants, women’s rights and diversity on an evening where more designers of colour were nominated for awards than could have ever happened before. It also marked the passing of the CFDA torch from Tom Ford to another Tom – Thom Browne.

“As we approached this evening, we carefully thought about the appropriateness of having a fashion celebration at a time like this, but tonight is about so much more than celebrating individuals, it’s about coming together as a collective to champion creativity, diversity and inclusion within our American industry,” said Browne, who became the Council Chairman in January 2023.

The venue, the American Museum of Natural History, served as more than just a famous site. It contextualised the event further as the CDFA marked the history of US fashion with not one, but two unique tributes: venerated models Pat Cleveland and Bethann Hardison and designer Stephen Burrows honoured the 50th anniversary of the Battle of Versailles – the 1973 runway show in Paris that matched hallowed French designers against the then upstart Americans – while singer Mary J. Blige toasted the 50th anniversary of hip-hop by introducing a film by Hype Williams featuring Missy Elliott, LL Cool J and Salt-N-Pepa.

The Winners’ Circle

Tennis star Serena Williams, who became the first athlete to be fêted by the CFDA as she picked up the Fashion Icon Award, recalled her experience with fashion, reimagining traditional tennis outfits with denim skirts, purple tutus and bodysuits and knee-high boots and beads in her hair. “I stand here with you all today, not just as an athlete, but as someone who has personally experienced the extraordinary power of fashion,” she said. “Through fashion, we truly have the opportunity to paint our own tapestry and share our unique perspectives with the world.”

Trumping Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra, Christopher John Rogers, Raul Lopez of Luar and Tory Burch for the coveted top prize, Khaite’s Catherine Holstein earned the Womenswear Designer Award for the second consecutive year. As the award was presented, a list of qualities womenswear must possess was rattled off: “A design that fits a variety of body shapes, skin tones, age groups, personality types, seasons, budgets, hopes and dreams, passes 24/7 endurance performance stress tests, it’s aspirational, yet grounded, fully rooted in the myriad responsibilities of a woman’s daily life.”

Among the other winners this year were Willy Chavarria for Menswear, Diotima’s Rachel Scott for Emerging Designer, The Row’s Mary- Kate and Ashley Olsen for Accessory Designer, and Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop for Innovation. Domenico De Sole, Chairman of Tom Ford International, claimed the Founder’s Award; Maria Cornejo clinched the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award; Mara Hoffman took home the Environmental Sustainability Award; and Alina Cho became the first Asian-American recipient of the Media Award.

Jonathan Anderson of JW Anderson and Loewe, whose halftime-show outfit for Rihanna at this year’s Super Bowl will live long in the memory, was honoured as the International Designer of the Year, while Vera Wang received the Board of Directors’ Tribute, celebrating her work in the bridal fashion. “I hope this adds a much-needed light on the bridal industry for a fashion veteran like myself, who barely made it to the altar at 40 and was probably the woman least likely to get married, let alone devote 30-plus years to creating wedding gowns,” said Wang with a smile.

Fashion Forward and Onward

As presenters and winners subtly addressed global and fashion issues, the tone of the event shifted to one of solemnity. One of the event’s most heart-wrenching moments was during Cornejo’s Lifetime Achievement acceptance speech. “I dedicate this award to peace and the many children that are voiceless, who will not have a lifetime,” said former US First Lady Michelle Obama’s go-to designer whose family fled Chile as political refugees when she was a child.

The 2023 ceremony was certainly far more star-studded than in years past. But despite the glitz and glamour, it was about using this platform to a greater cause and a call for unity. And maybe that was a clue to the import of the event: in a world that is increasingly angry and divided, this was a time for an industry to come together and make peace. But while a show of inclusivity and moving, impactful speeches is important, is it enough?

Frost Bound Elegance: Unveiling the coolest winter coat

Unveiling the coolest winter coat to try this winter season.

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All images are A.I generated.