Bohemia Rhapsodies: The ancient spires of Prague nod to a city steeped in history and charm

Prague is one of the most majestic and architecturally amazing cities in Europe. This ancient settlement, once the capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia, is a gem from a bygone age whose splendid buildings are seemingly unspoilt by modernism, war or natural disaster. The city’s core remains intact and world-famous structures date back more than 10 centuries.

A bird’s eye view of Prague would reveal a melting pot of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque landmarks, plus some 19th-century revivals and a sprinkling of 20th-century Art Nouveau. The tightly knit architectural haven is ideal for visitors to spend joyous days wandering through beautiful alleyways, passages and cul-de-sacs before heading back to one of many luxury hotels now populating the Czech Republic’s main city.

Bridging the past

A dawn crossing of Charles Bridge, a magnificent 14th-century bridge lined with Baroque statues that spans the Vltava River, is considered a quintessential Prague experience. The excursion from the Old Town to the Lesser Town or Little Quarter is made even more memorable by an approach under the arch below Old Town Bridge Tower, which itself is considered one of the finest Gothic buildings in the world. Here, the rib-vaulted viewing gallery provides wonderful views of Prague’s 1,000-year-old hilltop castle. The bridge became pedestrianised after the Second World War, having nobly withstood five centuries of wheeled traffic – its sturdy sandstone blocks were strengthened (according to legend) by mixing the mortar with egg yolk.

The structure’s series of Baroque statues (some are copies, with the originals residing in Czech museums) stare indifferently at the assembled gathering of buskers, jazz bands, hawkers and tourists. One of the artistically most remarkable is the sculpture of St Luitgard, dating from 1710 and based on the vision of a nun kissing the wounds of Christ.

The Little Quarter Bridge Tower, on the opposite river bank, also affords superb views of this glorious City of 100 Spires. Aside from an early morning visit, the bridge is one of many great places to watch the sunset.

Prince of the castle

Occupying a high and commanding position above the river, Prague Castle was founded in the ninth century by Prince Bořivoj. Its walls enclose a complex of palaces, churches, halls, a monastery and picturesque artisans’ cottages – a little village in its own right.

Czechia’s beating heart, the castle has huge cultural and historic significance; it boasts buildings from every period of the country’s history and has contained the seat of presidential power since 1918. There are also many physical treasures within these walls, such as the Bohemian crown jewels and exquisite works of art in Lobkowicz Palace from the former royal family’s private collection. The Prague Castle Picture Gallery contains wonderful paintings from the 16th to 18th centuries, with works by Titian and Rubens among the highlights, as well as some impressive sculptures.

Gothic glory

One of Europe’s most beautiful urban spaces, Old Town Square is a must-visit. Dotted with fine historical attractions, it has been the city’s main marketplace since the 11th century and remains a focal point, with a tourist information centre, plus numerous restaurants, cafés, shops and galleries. The south side of the square has an array of fine Romanesque and Gothic houses, while the east side is home to the Rococo-style Kinsky Palace, now an art museum whose façade is dressed with elaborate stucco decoration, and the 13th-century Stone Bell House, restored as a Gothic palace.

Another of the city’s top attractions is the Old Town Hall, established in 1338 after King John of Luxembourg allowed the district to have its own council. Carefully restored following damage sustained during a 1945 uprising against the Nazis, the complex embraces a row of immaculate Gothic and Renaissance buildings, some of which are open to the public. Atop the Old Town Hall tower is a famous astronomical clock that features, on the hour, a medieval marionette show lasting 45 seconds.

Worship wonders

Important religious landmarks include St Vitus Cathedral, located within Prague Castle and the country’s largest church. Work on the Gothic building began in 1344 and was finally completed in the 19th and 20th centuries. The first church on the site dates back to 930 and was built at the request of Wenceslaus I, Duke of Bohemia – “Good King Wenceslas” of carol fame was murdered five years later. He became the patron saint of the Czech state, and his tomb can be found within the cathedral, along with the aforementioned crown jewels.

Constructed in the first half of the 18th century, the Church of St Nicholas is a Baroque masterpiece in the storybook setting of the Lesser Town. It was the brainchild of father-and-son architects Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, Prague’s greatest exponents of High Baroque. Its statues, frescoes and paintings are by preeminent artists of their time, notably including Karel Škréta’s Crucifixion.

The Prague Jewish Museum is also worth a visit. It encompasses half a dozen ancient synagogues, a ceremonial hall and former mortuary, plus the Old Jewish Cemetery, all clustered together in a corner of the Old Town.

Cultural cheers

Prague is famous for its beer, or pivo in the native tongue, with the Czechs being among the world’s most enthusiastic beer drinkers. The country perfected the first Pilsner-style lager, the Pilsner Urquell 1842, and the pub is a focal point of Czech culture, a place to have fun, discuss art and put the world to right. The city is awash with breweries, large, small and micro, and craft beers. Favourites include Ležák, a classic pale lager; the yeast beer Kvasnicové; and the coffee-flavoured Kávové.

A few minutes from the castle, U Černého vola Beerhall is one of the best-known old-school pubs, serving classic snacks such as pickled camembert- style cheese, head cheese with onions or baked ham and eggs. Another good watering hole is U Hrocha, located near the British embassy. There are also plenty of late-night drinking spots and dance clubs to party into the small hours. Studio 54’s reputation as an excellent after-hours club playing a wide range of music is well-earned.

Cracking pork

The Czechs are also known for their fondness for pork (vepřový maso), with roast pork, pork goulash (vepřový guláš) and pork schnitzel (vepřový řízek) heading the menu. Boiled bread dumplings (knedlíky) are perfect for soaking up the gravy, while tomato, cucumber, lettuce and pickled cabbage add colour and crunch to local plates.

Ensconced within an iconic Old Town building, La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise prepares modern dishes inspired by 19th-century cuisine and serves them in tasting feasts of up to 11 courses. For panoramic views of this ancient city, visit Villa Richter, where gastronomic delights and exceptional wines can be enjoyed amid the St Wenceslas vineyards of Prague Castle, the oldest in the country.

The Dublin Guide: Travel through the lure of the Irish

European capitals such as London, Paris and Rome may immediately spring to mind as preeminent contemporary cities that meld history and modernity, but Dublin, with its centuries-old cathedrals, gothic castles, bustling nightlife and hearty culture, should not be overlooked. First settled by the ancient Vikings back in 841 AD as Dubh Linn (literally ‘black pool’), it was latterly conquered by the English during the 13th century before most of Ireland gained independence in 1922.

Indeed, its tumultuous military history is well reflected in the various monuments and museums that punctuate its bounds, but these are equally matched by graceful Georgian buildings, tranquil greenery, a thriving culinary scene and, of course, the famed distilleries, not to mention the home of Guinness stout. So, whether it’s history, architecture, whisky or literature that piques your interest, here are the top sights to explore in the Irish capital.

Trinity College

A visit to Trinity College, the oldest surviving university in Ireland, is the perfect way to imbibe the country’s incredible history and cultural legacy. Founded by England’s Queen Elizabeth I in 1592, the institute sits on a sprawling 40-acre estate replete with cobbled squares, secluded gardens and pristine parks that are fantastic for whiling away a sunny afternoon with a picnic lunch.

Antiquarians should not miss the guided student tours of the Old Library, which boasts a veritable treasure trove of ancient artefacts. Key among these is the Book of Kells – a stunning ninth-century calfskin manuscript detailing the life of Jesus Christ – considered by many to be Ireland’s most important historical work. As the building receives plenty of foot traffic, particularly during the peak season, skip the long queues by booking your tour online.

Dublin Castle

Ireland_travel_Gafencu_The Dublin Guide Travel through the lure of the Irish — The historical Dublin Castle

Built upon what was once an ancient Viking settlement, Dublin Castle has long been the epicentre of political, commercial and social activity in Ireland. Constructed by decree of England’s King John in 1204, it was the heart of English, then British rule for nearly seven centuries before finally being relinquished to local authorities following the formation of the Irish Free State in 1922. Over the course of its history, it has worn many faces – as a medieval fortress, royal court and government administrative building.

Ireland_travel_Gafencu_The Dublin Guide Travel through the lure of the Irish castle green park — Dublin Castle was built in 13th century by King John of England

Today, it takes visitors on an in-depth journey through Ireland’s dynamic history, beginning with the subterranean Viking chambers and the surprisingly well-maintained Medieval Tower to the state apartments of the viceregal court and much more besides. In particular, it’s well worth a side trip to the Chester Beatty, a library and museum that permanently houses the expansive collections of US mining magnate Sir Alfred Chester Beatty.

Kilmainham Gaol

For an equally fascinating – if slightly more sombre – historic experience, look no further than Kilmainham Gaol. Completed in 1796, this forbidding jail gives an intimate glimpse of the history of Irish nationalism and struggle for independence. In fact, it imprisoned (and executed) countless notorious revolutionaries, including the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising insurrection.

Today, there are any number of tours on offer that provide a compelling narrative of this bleak structure – which shuttered prisoners until 1926 and is now a museum – be it outlining the struggle for Irish independence or detailing the morbid living conditions of its former inmates. For those with a blood-thirsty bent, head to the Stonebreakers’ Yard – the spot where the aforementioned insurrectionists met their grisly fate.

St. Stephen’s Green

The expansive 22-acre St. Stephen’s Green is a tranquil oasis nestled at the heart of Dublin’s hustle and bustle. Boasting manicured lawns, a duck pond, water features and a children’s playground, the location provides a pleasant contrast to the plethora of urban sights. Just a short stroll away from the bucolic green is Grafton Street, home to some of the best shopping in northern Europe. Should you be inclined to indulge in more learned explorations than a hotspot for retail therapy, just to the south of the park lies the Museum of Literature Ireland, an institute that highlights the nation’s immense storytelling legacy.

Jameson Bow Distillery

Gafencu travel Ireland Dublin Guide Travel through the lure of the Irish jameson distillery — Jameson Bow Distillery

For the Irish whisky aficionado, there are not one but two quintessential distilleries to be found within Dublin’s acreage. The first and undoubtedly more famous is the Jameson Bow St. Distillery. Though the tipple is no longer made on site – it is now produced in Cork – the factory-turned-museum inhabits the original building where the brand was founded by John Jameson in 1780. Among its many offerings are distillery tours, whisky tastings and even learning to blend your own.

Teeling Distillery

Teeling Distillery, meanwhile, which lies a scant 10-minute drive away, offers a less frenetic, more laidback experience. Debuting in 2015, it was the first whisky distillery to open in Dublin in more than 125 years. Yet, despite its relative youth, the company has managed to rake in some 300 international awards for its various products, several of which are on offer with its whisky tasting experiences.

Guiness Storehouse

No visit to Dublin would be complete without entering the centre of one of its most popular exports – Guinness. Even if you’re not an imbiber, the vast, multistorey Guinness Storehouse – which served as the brewery’s fermentation plant for 86 years – educates on every aspect of the famed ‘black stuff’, from the four ingredients that serve as its base (barley, hops, yeast and water) to the background of the family that started the now-international phenomenon to pouring a pint of Guinness the right way.

Wrap up your trip in memorable fashion by downing a glass of the distinctive dry stout (included with the price of admission) at the top-floor Gravity Bar, whose floor-to-ceiling windows also afford some of the best panoramic views of the city. Sláinte!

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Roman Legacy: Exploring the breathtaking sights of Italy’s capital city

As the centre of one of the most powerful ancient civilisations, Rome has fascinated and enchanted people the world over for millennia. Aptly dubbed the Eternal City – its founding dates back some 2,800 years to 753 BC – this UNESCO World Heritage Site is brimming with historic monuments and artefacts that illuminate its importance and relevance through the ages. Indeed, even today, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that elements of ancient Rome continue to impact our daily lives, be it through culture, healthcare, education or even democratic rule.

Unsurprisingly, then, its modern-day incarnation consistently tops the must-visit lists of travel publications across the globe, with the metropolitan city’s 4.3 million inhabitants annually overrun by nearly double their number in tourists during pre-Covid times. So what, exactly, draws these intrepid travellers? Ancient wonders? Majestic artworks? Delicious food? A vibrant culture? The answer: all of the above. Here are some of the most iconic sites to feast your eyes upon when in Rome…

Glory & Gladiators

Perhaps the most instantly recognisable tourist destination in Rome, the oval amphitheatre known as the Colosseum lies at the heart of the city. So intrinsically linked is it to the Italian national identity that it even graces the country’s five-cent coin. Construction of this massive arena was completed in 80 AD under the rule of Emperor Titus, and during its heyday, the structure – originally dubbed the Flavian Amphitheatre – could hold as many as 50,000 eager spectators.

Today, the massive limestone, tuff and concrete building may be devoid of the skilled gladiators, exotic animals and roaring crowds that occupied it some two millennia ago, but its historic and dramatic aura remains palpable. The venue boasts countless items of interest, but the time-pressed traveller should make sure to visit the morbidly named ‘Gate of Death’ – through which the dead and injured were carried out of the Colosseum – the arena floor where matches took place, and the hyper exclusive hypogeum, the complex labyrinth of tunnels that competitors and staff used to navigate the edifice’s length in ancient times. While the former is open to general-admission ticket holders, the latter two are only accessible via guided tours.

Epicentre of the Empire

Located a stone’s throw from the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. For centuries, this rectangular plaza dictated the rhythm of life in the city. It was the venue where triumphal processions ended along the Sacred Way, where commercial affairs occurred, where elections, trials and public speeches were held, and where Rome’s politicians decided the fate of all those living within its far-flung empire. Despite the fact that much of the original structure has since crumbled with the passage of time, an air of importance and solemnity still marks the remaining temples and pillars.

To get an insight into how it originally appeared, head to the Curia Julia. The former home of the Roman Senate – centuries before being converted into a church – remains one of the most intact structures at the Forum. Further on, you’ll find the Arch of Septimius Severus, which was constructed in 203 AD by the eponymous emperor to celebrate his victory over the Parthians (whose ancient empire lies in modern-day Iran). One of the largest arches in Rome, it stands some 23m high and boasts intricately carved reliefs. Among the temples venerating various deities on site, the Temple of Caesar (dedicated to Julius Caesar) is perhaps of foremost importance.

Eye for Art

In a city awash with ancient ruins, it is perhaps the Pantheon that stands today as the most complete. Thought to be over 2,000 years old, the temple – originally believed to be dedicated to pagan deities like Neptune, god of the sea – became a Catholic church in 609 AD and features stunning works by some of Italy’s most renowned Renaissance painters. This includes the legendary Raphael, who would eventually make the Pantheon his final resting place, and whose tomb can still be visited. Perhaps even more impressive, though, is its dome, a 43m-high perfect half-sphere with a central open-air oculus. An impressive architectural feat for its age, the majesty of its soaring walls continues to thrill travellers to this day.

Stairway to History

Having featured in such notable movies as Roman Holiday (1953) starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn, 1999’s The Talented Mr Ripley and more recently in 2015 spy-thriller The Man from U.N.C.L.E., the Spanish Steps are one of Rome’s most popular sights. First constructed in 1725, the stairway immediately became a hotspot for English visitors stopping in the city during their Grand Tour. Today, its popularity remains undiminished, and the top of the 135-step climb remains a great space to take in the city’s sights and people.

Appetite for Piazza

Past splendour and modernity meet in spectacular fashion at the Piazza Navona, a capacious open-air square punctuated with classic architecture, Baroque water features, historic churches alongside street artists, contemporary eateries and even a selection of retail outlets. At its centre stands Bernini’s iconic Fountain of Four Rivers, while underneath, you’ll find the Stadium of Domitian, a UNESCO site that was once an ancient athletics stadium seating some 20,000 spectators. Some of the city’s best culinary offerings can be found in the square, including traditional Roman-style pizza and mouth-watering pasta dishes such as cacio e pepe.

For a peek into local life, venture forth to Campo de’ Fiori, another open-air plaza just to the south of Piazza Navona. Since 1869, it has hosted a daily fish and vegetable market, and city dwellers gather to peruse the copious fresh, locally sourced produce. Once the sun dips below the horizon, the market gives way to outdoor cafes, where you can mingle with locals and toss back a well-deserved espresso – or beer – or several. Saluti.

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s February 2022 print issue as ❝Roman Legacy❞ by Tenzing Thondup. Download the free app (iOS, Android) for digital editions of the magazine.