Men’s Spring-Summer 2022: Relaxed masculinity runs riot

Forget about sombre cuts and monotonous colour palettes. With the onset of the Spring / Summer season, the world’s leading labels have embraced freedom and hope by presenting dazzling hues, patterns and textures. From oversized Bermuda shorts and surfer tees to tailored summer suits and bright blazers, they leave no style unexplored in sumptuous SS22 men’s collections…

Balenciaga

Under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia, the SS22 line delves into the tradition of fashionable experimentation that characterised the clothes of house founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. Merging the worlds of streetwear and high fashion, and unbridled by industry conventions, Gvasalia reconfigures the label’s archival pieces with exaggerated silhouettes, asymmetric cuts and bold colorways for a relaxed yet undeniably dapper style.

Berluti

Seamlessly blending high fashion and beach chic, Berluti serves up a riotously colourful collection that fully embraces the joy of summer. Think relaxed denim shorts and capris, bright orange and blue Hawaiian shirts with matching shorts, and oversized beige totes. The brand’s Scritto motif – reminiscent of map calligraphy – has been enlarged and interwoven, then emblazoned across various pieces throughout this collection.

Bottega Veneta

Utilitarian uniforms and relaxed sportswear have been given an experimental finish in Bottega Veneta’s latest seasonal collection. Exploring an array of dynamic textures and fabrics, an otherwise subtle monochromatic motif has been enlivened by eye-catching metallic sheens, exaggerated lines and voluminous silhouettes that not only underscore a striking techno-chic appeal, but add a fresh effervescent flair to the assemblage.

Dolce & Gabbana

Few haute-couture labels embrace euphoric colour quite like Dolce & Gabbana – and their latest seasonal line is no exception. Inspired by Italy’s ‘luminarie’ light shows, crystal-embellished ensembles vie with a multihued gem-studded suit and crystal-anointed blazers for attention. “Light is good therapy for this moment. Now we need to see light, joy and happiness in the eyes of people,” explains Stefano Gabbana.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Relaxed and casual yet resplendent with excellent tailoring, Ermenegildo Zegna serves up comfortable garments that breathe easy through warmer climes and styles fashionable enough for any occasion. From board shorts and Hawaiian T-shirts to loafers and khaki suits, the house’s spring creations bestow fun, free, cool and chic that are as at home on the beach or in the wilderness as they are indoors.

Etro

Harkening back to the Flower Power era of the ’60s, Etro’s SS22 offerings are awash with kaleidoscopic patterns, dazzling neon hues and flowing silhouettes. The more casual pieces, which range from sheer shirts and baggy trousers to open-chested patterned vests, slouch in sharp contrast to the more upstanding formal apparel – think sharply tailored suits in fluorescent colours paired with printed, deep-cut waistcoats.

Fendi

There’s no denying that the latest men’s catwalk at Fendi was a study in juxtaposition: structured blazers paired with cropped Bermuda shorts; full-sleeved bomber jackets cropped below the chest for a midriff-baring finish; and formalwear accented with open-toed sandals. Eschewing the traditional tenets of masculine tailoring, the result is a playful experiment on new traditions that spell young and fun.

Giorgio Armani

The classic tailoring skills that have made this Italian label beloved the world over is in sharp evidence this season, albeit with a more relaxed finish. In place of the structured suits and rigid forms that typified the Giorgio Armani Autumn / Winter line, this latest collection serves up sleek silk shirts, flared trousers and subdued, monochromatic jackets that are perfect fits for the temperamental , ever-changing climes of spring.

Givenchy

Androgyny is a central theme for Givenchy’s SS22 collection, with traditionally female forms and accoutrements gracing the masculine models on its catwalk. Dominating proceedings are the plethora of colourful leggings – printed or monochromatic in a kaleidoscope of colours – that are more often favoured by women on the go. Vibrant, ripped shirts, printed hoodies and a fringed cowl round out this innovative line.

Gucci

Did someone say ‘costume party’? Embracing an atmosphere of lively experimentation, Gucci draws from an array of disparate sources for its Spring / Summer apparel. Looking for cowboy chic? You got it. Disco glam? It’s there. Fun formalwear? You bet. From magician-inspired suits to ’60s-style flared trousers and oversized sunglasses, this spirited collection spares no pattern, fabric or colour – especially if you’re looking towards more ecclectic ensembles.

Hermès

Layering is the name of the game for Hermès this season, with the French luxury maison taking a casual approach to the mix-and-match trend. Capri pants, relaxed shorts and flowing trousers are paired, in turn, with everything from more subdued tops and unbuttoned shirts to a bright yellow printed shirt and an ombré top-and-sweater set. All are comfortably casual without skimping on an iota of style.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s new SS22 collection for men is, to put it mildly, an avant-garde affair. An all-white outfit with a beret, ear muffs and baseball mitt-like gloves? Check. A bunny-eared hat, a pair of leather pleated shorts and baseball cleats? Check. An all-pink pimp-like get-up with an exaggerated top hat and puffy coat? Check and check. Outrageously wild and strikingly show-stopping, every ensemble is a talking point.

Prada

Nothing screams summer quite like short shorts, and Prada’s Spring / Summer line is positively brimming with them. Styled underneath a series of oversized shirts, patterned sweaters, open blazers and sleeveless tops, whether these pairings serve to embellish or shroud these abridged designs, its undeniably eye-catching sartorial numbers offer a teasingly delightful peek-a-boo experience for wearer and viewer alike.

Saint Laurent

Gothic glam and the outré collide in spectacular fashion at Saint Laurent this season. At the darker end of the spectrum, the all-black combo of a hat, a loose, sheer shirt, and a pair of skinny trousers takes a star turn, calling to mind a scarecrow’s silhouette. Then, at the opposite extreme, there are fluorescent suits, a rainbow-coloured jacket, and even an open-chested yellow cape-shirt paired with tight jeans and high-heeled boots.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Skin-baring styles line up to pair alongside more tempered, traditional masculine tailoring in Salvatore Ferragamo’s SS22 men’s runway collection. Staider options – collared shirts paired with flared shorts, a yellow top over black slacks – do, however, take something of a back seat to more unconventional garb, such as sheer tops, a flowing cowl-like number, and an attention-grabbing tiger-print jacket.

Valentino

Offbeat and experimental, Valentino’s SS22 offerings push the boundaries of the traditional masculine figure. In one instance, this sees a sheer, striped shirt with flared sleeves worn with both a skirt and shorts simultaneously. In another, a purple blazer and a blue buttoned shirt are paired with a maroon shorts/leggings combo. This skilled layering of disparate garments and fabrics, though somewhat disconcerting upon first viewing, settles into a comfortingly familiar refrain.

Spring-Summer 2022: Hot looks from top fashion houses

Even as we remain gripped in the throes of an ongoing pandemic, the high-fashion houses around the world have bravely marched on, presenting enchantingly elaborate new collections to herald the arrival of warmer days. A refreshing breather from the presiding gloom, these latest lines are awash with bold prints, dazzling colours and stunning silhouettes that are playful and hopeful in equal measure.

Balenciaga

In a true study of silhouettes, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia juxtaposes form-fitting numbers – think skintight leotards and thigh-high leather boots – with a gamut of airy, ruffled ensembles, be it a black ballgown or a shimmering Space Age dress. Clever colour choices also enhance the visual playfulness of the collection, while beautiful beadwork and thoughtfully appointed accessories lift the overall appeal to a new level.

Bottega Veneta

Stripes, shimmering sequins and splashes of colour herald the arrival of spring at Bottega Veneta. Puffer jackets are still in evidence to ward off the last remnants of winter chill, but are outsmarted by fun, skin-baring creations in verdant green and pretty purple. Sexy and svelte yet eminently accessible, there are pieces here for every occasion, be it a sporty day out, an afternoon tea party or a fancy evening soirée.

Burberry

“Because of the way women have had to fight, there’s a lot of masculinity going on. Now, it feels like women are being sexy again,” notes Burberry Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci. And in response, his SS22 collection has refocused the sartorial lens on the instinctive attraction of animal prints and playful patterns. This lighter, rawer mood also translates to an array of cut-out creations, skintight silhouettes and sheer separates that embrace sensuality at every turn.

Chanel

Undeniable joie de vivre imbues Chanel’s latest womenswear catwalk show. Much of the line embodies beach chic, with plenty of bikini bottoms, bralettes and skimpy shorts. Elsewhere, the brand’s iconic suits are also on prominent display, albeit with a summery, high-hemline twist, while sheer, breezy tops and gowns impart a flirtatious twist to the collection. Bright and fun without skimping on an iota of style, these ensembles perfectly capture the playful spirit of the season.

Dior

Gone are the airy kaftans and Bedouin-inspired turbans of yesteryear, and in their place this season are edgier, bolder garments informed by a distinct punk rock motif. Here, monochromatic tops in neon yellow, blue and orange are interspersed with boldly patterned bralettes, skirts and jackets for a powerful visual punch. Then there’s the requisite all-leather ensemble and a fluorescent pink-on-black boxer uniform embodying a distinct streetwear ambience.

Dolce & Gabbana

Women who dare to bare will love the latest offerings from Dolce & Gabbana. Featuring bold animal prints, dazzling colours and a whole host of lingerie-esque numbers, this is one collection that does not shy away from showing some skin. Oversized shoulders, shimmering sequins, lacy shirts and see-through silhouettes are also proudly on display, entrancingly enveloping the female form while revealing just enough to leave you wanting more…

Etro

Sleek club couture and ’60s hippie chic collide in spectacular fashion under the discerning eye of Womenswear Creative Director Veronica Etro this spring/summer season. Embracing a more casual vibe are flowing, open kaftans and prismatic paisley prints, contrasted by bolder numbers such as sexy thigh-slit maxi skirts and a wide array of bosom-baring, barely-there bralettes. Unapologetically brazon, flirtatiously feminine, you’re free to bare what you dare.

Fendi

Reflecting a central motif of movement, Fendi’s newest collection stands as a tribute to the multifaceted forms of the modern woman. Simple monochromatic ensembles are elevated with skin-baring cut-outs, rigidly structured lines or flowing fabrics that swish around the silhouette. Elsewhere, the brand’s more colourful creations – ranging from pale pastels to bold neon hues – add a welcome visual pop to proceedings.

Giorgio Armani

An ethereal aura permeated Giorgio Armani’s SS22 catwalk show. Sweeping see-through dresses burnished in pretty pastels call to mind ephemeral fairies, while swishy balloon trousers and cropped tops are reminiscent of Middle Eastern genies. Disrupting this otherworldly vibe, meanwhile, are more structured pieces, ranging from a rigidly constructed pink-on-white suit set to a more sombre black-and-white ensemble.

Givenchy

For his debut haute couture collection as Givenchy’s Creative Director Matthew Williams channelled a ’40s-inspired silhouette. Think tucked-in waistlines, sculpted shoulders, column dresses and an eruption of ruffles. A ready-to-wear collaboration with New York-based artist Josh Smith, meanwhile, yields interesting imagery, including strange balloon smiley faces gracing ripped leggings topped by an eye-popping printed shirt.

Gucci

As Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele readily admits, he once had dreams of becoming a costume designer. Hence, his latest seasonal line pays homage to the fantastical garments of Hollywood films. Running the gamut from Space Age creations – shimmering silvery fabrics made into suits or glamorous ballgowns – to sexy, sweeping dresses that exemplify effortless boudoir chic, its outré impact is undeniable.

Also Read: Spring Skincare: Ultimate tips for the best glow this season

Hermès

Pondering how women will eventually emerge in the post-pandemic world, Hermès Creative Director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski deftly balances comfort and practicality with a subtle sensuality for her SS22 collection. Crafted with the maison’s signature attention to detail, relaxed bralette-and-drawstring trouser combos are juxtaposed with more rigidly structured dresses and coats that evoke an aura of casual elegance.

Loewe

Even the most cursory of glances reveals that geometric experimentation and interpretation are the key motifs of Loewe’s latest Spring / Summer creations. Emphasising a three-dimensional silhouette, strongly structured metallic corsets and protruding waistlines war for attention with flowering cowls and swaying shawls and gowns. The use of a riot of textures and prismatic colours heightens this overall effect for good measure.

Also Read: Style File: Spring 2022 colours you will be seeing everywhere!

Louis Vuitton

Designed to be ‘le grand bal of time’, Louis Vuitton delves into the past and pays tribute to the evolving nature of fashion across time in its SS22 line-up. From 19th-century-inspired, elaborately embellished hip-girded gowns to the sexy, sequined dress that recalls the Roaring Twenties to oversized blazers and cropped baggy shorts of ’90s streetwear chic, it’s a magical journey through the sartorial styles of yesteryear.

Saint Laurent

Svelte and sophisticated for the spring and summer seasons, Saint Laurent embraces the warmer weather with an array of sexy styles. Drawing attention firmly to the chest, peek-a-boo bralettes and bosom-baring numbers dominate. In contrast to these figure-hugging creations are rigid shoulders and formal blazers informed by the tenets of masculine tailoring, and crafted with the boldly feminine, confident modern woman in mind.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Transporting audiences to a remote desertscape, Design Director Guillaume Meilland’s debut womenswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo is rife with sleek turbans, flowing fabrics and voluminous silhouettes. Featuring a subtle palette of white, brown, black and beige, this muted line focuses all attention on the superb detailing of the garments on display, be it navel-baring fabric twists or fluttering fringes on pencil skirts.

Also Read: Selling the High Fashion Dream: Mike Ruan of S.T Boutique

Stella McCartney

Embracing spring in all its blooming glory, Stella McCartney’s newest offerings are a joyous celebration of fresh colours. From a neon blue leotard paired with an olive trench to a ruffled lime jumpsuit with geometric prints, outré is truly the name of the game. Elevating proceedings further is a treasure trove of textural fabrics – shiny sequins, green mesh, bold ruffles – that provides a deft showcase of McCartney’s designer know-how.

Valentino

Instead of a singular theme, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli focuses on ‘making a shift, embracing a new generation, a new world’ this season. So, his creations are as broad as can be imaginable for a single collection. Sexy fluorescent mini-dresses embody nightclub chic, while bralette/skirt combos serve as perfect poolside pieces. Continuing this disparate motif, casual cowls and denim separates rub shoulders with ethereal, flowing gowns. In short, there’s something for every fashionista…

Also Read: Top at-home speakers for an elevated cinematic experience

Bespoke: Our favourite coral fashion items of the season

Declared the 2019 Colour of the Year by Pantone – Living Coral has certainly made its way into some of the most luxurious fashion brand’s SS19 catalogues. Indeed, the vibrant feminine colour is very much in, with coral fashion pieces such as hats, dresses and even sunglasses being embraced by the warm tone. Here at Gafencu our editors have carefully curated the most elegant ensembles and stand-alone pieces to add to your wardrobe this season.

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Related: Luxury Beach Accessories

Wow & Woo: V-day look for lovely ladies

For those who are already counting down to the most romantic day in the year, we have for you the perfect V-day look book for a dreamy date with your significant other.

Wear red: Choose an easy-breezy scarlet dress with kitschy floral prints to keep things casual yet chic. For a formal dinner, however, a cherry-red lacey dress can never go wrong.

Choose high heels: High heels may not be the most comfortable, but they bring out our best postures. Whether you opt for booties or pumps or sandals, make sure the heel has the inches.

Bag it: Choose a cute yet classy bag in neutral colour – you want the attention to be on you, not on your bag. Anything in shades of beige, pink and white would complement your LRD (little red dress).

Accessorize: Of course, your V-day look won’t be complete without a petite piece of jewellery, be it an ear stud or a small pendant. Go for subtle feminine patterns instead of the obvious roses, hearts and butterflies.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Checkmating: The right way to wear clashing patterns

Wearing clashing patterns is like walking a tightrope, one false step and you land yourself in disaster land. But fret not, we have carefully curated a look-book for gentlemen which may prove to be a handy guide while navigating the tricky terrain of clashing patterns.

Look-book

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Making Video

Photos: Neville Lee
Art Direction: San Wong
Video: Lai Ty Yeung
Model: Jo Y @Quest
Grooming: Chris Yu @Morphologique

3 handbags you should have in your closet this fall

With the summer season in full swing, industry professionals and trendsetters are already predicting the styles for the upcoming season. To keep you in the know, we round up top 3 handbags to have in your closet this fall.

For the trendsetter – Bulgari, Serpenti Full Pop-Stripe Phython

For the Fall/Winter 18 season, luxury Italian brand Bulgari offers fashionistas a pop of playful textures and colours. Merging bold geometrics with a dash of surprise, the accessories collection plays according to Bulgari’s own trendsetting rules.

For those who prefer the cross-body style, the Serpenti Full Pop-Stripe Python marries together a fun, luxuriant mix of the collection’s unique trademarks, blending a high-end material, vibrant colours and bold designs into one single bag. Available in either Royal Sapphire or Canyon Amber – both with black stripes – the new Serpenti is the result of highest craftsmanship skills. After the python skin’s are hand painted in two different tones, the stripes are then obtained with an airbrush to enhance the natural pattern. For a truly one-of-a-kind result, the delicate process can take up to two days of work.

For the daring – Etro, Floral-Print Crossbody Rainbow bag

Creative Director, Victoria Etro of Italian Fashion house Etro, breaks all the sterotypes this fall. The accessories line corresponds with that of the clothing couture; intensely patterned and comfortable, in all the right ways.

Add an unexpected pop of colour to your fall ’18 wardrobe with Etro’s Floral-print crossbody Rainbow Bag in soft calfskin leather. Decorated with the print of multicolour embroidered ribbons, the handy bag comes equipped with two practical compartments and a patch pocket, finished with a metal fastening with an ‘E’ identifying the brand.

For red carpet glamour – Delvaux Tempête MM, Metal Glam: Flashlight

This season, luxury Belgium leather brand Delvaux pays homage to Hollywood glamour and the magic of cinematic lighting with a collection of luxury leather handbags that play on the themes of light and shadow, red carpet allure and timeless elegance.

Featuring pure graphic silhouettes, matte and shiny leathers, glittering metal pieces and opulent furs, the collection is perfect for those looking to add a touch of red carpet glamour to their ensemble.

Text: Hira Desai

Images courtesy of Bulgari, Etro and Delvaux

Yen Kuok gets candid on fashion and identity (Part II)

In an online exclusive for Gafencu magazine, Robert Kuok’s youngest daughter talks about giving up her Malaysian passport and fashion inspirations. Gafencu sits down for an exclusive interview with the sprightly fashionpreneur.

Yen Kuok at the *Gafencu* photo shoot last December 2017 at her father’s Island Shangri-La

In part two of our exclusive digital-only edition Q&A with Yen Kuok, we get up close and personal with the founder of second-hand luxury business Guiltless, who considers herself full Hong Kongese. If you missed the first part, read all about it here.

Would you say that the tag of ‘Robert Kuok’s daughter’ has been a heavy presence following you around?

Growing up, it was definitely not something I was proud of. At school I was a good student, so I was picked to join interschool organisations. I remember we would go to meetings and afterwards my driver would come pick me up, but obviously it would be awkward if everyone’s taking the MTR. They’d be like, ‘How are you getting back?’ to which I would say, ‘Oh, I’m walking to the bus stop.’ ‘Which bus stop?’ ‘Oh I don’t remember the name, somewhere down that road’ – I would try to cover it up.

If I had been sent to an international school like my older siblings, I probably would have been very different, but my parents decided to send me to Diocesan Girls’ School – one of the most academically competitive local schools in town. The environment was cutthroat, pushing me to prioritise doing well in my studies. I was much more chilled and less driven before going to DGS as a kid!

Your dad being Malaysian Chinese, would you consider yourself Hong Kongese?

I consider myself one hundred percent Hong Kongese. I gave up my Malaysian passport – I don’t speak the language, don’t have any friends there, rarely go there. I might as well call myself Japanese ‘cause I go to Tokyo more often than KL!

You would never catch me dead in something like Céline or Haider Ackermann, I’m not going for that aesthetic. I have been in this maximalist phase for the past few years versus minimalism.

What do you like to do in your free time?

I had a really horrible break up a year and a half ago, and it wrecked my skin. I’ve gone through really tough periods before, but that was the only time my skin was affected so dramatically by emotional stress. I broke out had rashes everywhere – it was horrible. I didn’t leave the house, I was crying everyday… I finally said, ‘I need to fix my life. Let me start with my skin.’

I began looking into skincare, going deep from ingredients to ‘What is the best kind of exfoliator?’ or ‘What’s the difference between an apricot shell scrub and a walnut shell scrub??’ [Laughs]

When I set my heart on something I go all in, so ever since then I’ve become all my friends’ go-to person whenever they have skin problems or want recommendations. I’m always the first to know about beauty gadgets, home lasers, nano-current devices, LED facial machines… That’s what I do in my free time – I read beauty blogs to research on skincare!

Styling by San Wong; Photography by Neville Lee

Let’s talk about fashion, since you’ve taken the deep dive into doing business in the industry ever since. Who are your favourite icons and go-to designers?

You would never catch me dead in something like Céline or Haider Ackermann, I’m not going for that aesthetic. I’m all about Erdem, Nanette Lepore, and of course the Dolce & Gabbanas, the Cavallis, the Versaces…I have been in this maximalist phase for the past few years versus minimalism.

There’s a fine line between what I mentioned and being overdone or tacky, sure, but I can’t help but be drawn to complexity and pattern. Etro is one example, for the diversity of textures, and then there’s Iris van Herpen who does 3D printing, which is all about the intricacy. Check out some of her runway pieces, they’re really beautiful. I remember she came out with this innovative skeleton dress which visualized the inside of the body outside [Editor’s Note: The piece was later acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art].

Iris van Herpen’s plastic skeleton dress represents her feeling of being reborn during a parachuting jump. (Cariole June 2011)

Today it’s women’s fashion, lifestyle goods and gadgets; tomorrow you mentioned wanting to expand into men’s and children’s wear. What’s next – with the recent success of your pop up, do you plan to open a physical shop eventually?

We had never entertained the idea of opening a permanent physical shop because looking at the likes of Net-a-Porter, staying online has been one of the reasons they’ve been able to maintain a successful international business model with an image extending to all corners of the world. Once you have a physical shop, you become localised to a certain place. But this pop-up has been a pleasant surprise, so I wouldn’t completely rule it out, but right now I’d rather focus on online.