dive watch Archives

Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

dive-watch-Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Panerai

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

dive-watch-Oris-Aquis-New-York-Harbor-Limited-Edition-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Oris

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

dive-watch-IWC-Aquatic-Automatic-gafencu — Photo: IWC

A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 — Photo: Rolex

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

Since the dawn of the 20th century, burgeoning interest in oceanic exploration saw the rise of diving as both a science and a sport. And long before the advent of computers and other technologically-driven equipment, dive watches were right there to help these intrepid explorers in their aquatic endeavours, primarily to precisely measure time spent by a diver underwater.

“Oceanic explorations have inspired the creation of a wide selection of luxuriously elegant dive watches”

These days, though, their popularity has spilled over into the general leisure domain, sparking a slew of quasi-counterfeit ‘dive watches’. To combat this, the International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO) has set guidelines and testing parameters that comprise a real dive watch. The true haute horology titans, though, have consistently produced technologically advanced wrist adornments that can not only withstand the oceanic depths, but that look good doing so. Below are seven of the latest standouts.

First up is Ulysse Nardin’s all-new Diver Net. A novel approach sparked the creation of this innovative design, with the brand looking to the sea for materials with which to enhance the watch in a truly sustainable fashion. This sees everything from its R-Straps and bezel to case and caseback crafted from recycled fishing nets, with even the crystal manufactured from recycled oceanic plastic. Under the hood beats an UN-118 movement that sees the black-on-green watch function to depths of up to 300m.

Another brand utilising a similar colour motif is Blancpain in the form of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback. The first green version of this particular model, its dial and bezel boasts an almost military camouflage aesthetic. With an eye to ensuring safety, its 43.6mm case is crafted from satin-brushed ceramic, a highly scratch-resistant, anti-reflective material that bequeaths a sturdy robustness. Water resistant to 30 bar, its F385 calibre flyback chronograph movement is precise to 1/10 per second when timing events. A 50-hour power reserve completes its chrono diver appeal.

Next, watchmaker Bell & Ross has expanded its DIVER collection with the BR 03-92 DIVER ORANGE. If the PR materials are to be believed, this 250-piece limited release’s eye-catching colour was chosen to reflect ‘the visual codes associated with maritime safety’ and to guarantee ‘optimal reading time’. Burnished with the brand’s iconic square-shaped face, its 60-minute calibrated uni-directional rotating bezel affords divers the ability to precisely monitor their dive times. In all, it’s an intelligent design that unsurprisingly meets the ISO’s latest standards.

Equally placing durability at its core is the Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42mm, Panerai’s most robust dive watch to date. Here, its movement is safely tucked away behind a screwed caseback, while a bridge device similarly protects the crown from any encroaching water. Water resistant to 1,000ft, its matte black dial is further punctuated with a date aperture and a small-seconds subdial. Available solely through the brand’s e-commerce channel, just 500 pieces will be released.

Embracing a more outré aesthetic is OMEGA in the form of its Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. Combining titanium, tantalum and the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy, Sedna gold, the result is a pink and blue feast for the eyes. Water resistant to 300m, the side of each Numbered Edition’s 44mm case comes emblazoned with its unique number. To highlight its aquatic nature, the timepiece even comes with a special presentation box styled like a water-resistant chamber.

Returning to a more traditional blue-hued dial is Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. The ‘Fifty-Eight’ here is a reference to the year it released its first-ever divers’ watch waterproof to 200m. This new 39mm model comes with a blue domed dial ringed with a matte blue 60-minute uni-directional rotating bezel. Powered by a Calibre MT5402 movement that affords a generous 70-hour power reserve, it can be fitted with three different types of straps.

Sister brand Rolex – who created the world’s first hermetically-sealed watch back in 1927 – has also unveiled a new avatar of its iconic dive watch, the Rolex Submariner. First introduced in 1953, it has now been updated to a slightly larger 41mm case, replete with the cutting-edge calibre 3230 movement also introduced earlier this year. Fully waterproof to depths of 300m, its black dial is ringed with a black rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert – a virtually scratchproof and corrosion-resistant material – deft touches that highlights the watchmaker’s continually keen understanding of divers’ needs.

Tag: dive watch

7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Dive In: Dazzling timepieces that thrive underwater