Celebrating Cognac: France’s most luxurious spirit

Put that dram down, we’ve got something better.

Once the preserve of gentlemen’s clubs (cigar in one hand, snifter in the other) and Chinese banquets, Cognac has been coined “the liquor of the gods” and the epitome of French luxury, though it has long been more adored by other nations. The great Cognac houses date back to the 18th century, but until about a decade ago the pour did not get much popular press, cultural buzz or airing in bars.

Fast forward to 2022 – Cognac is newly chic, and a key ingredient in creative cocktails. Here’s all you need to know about one of the most loved, complex and dynamic spirits out there today.

What is a Cognac?

Cognac is a type of a brandy, which in turn is a distilled spirit produced from fermented fruit, most commonly grapes. To be categorised as Cognac, and thus elite, the spirit must be produced within the limits of the Cognac region in southwest France. The Ugni Blanc grape has to lead the blend, and it must be twice distilled in a Charentais copper pot still and then aged for at least two years in French oak.

The chosen tipple of emperors, kings and aristocrats, from Napoleon to Louis XVII, this French craft product was, in fact, invented by the Dutch to make wine easier to transport by sea. Double-distilled ‘brandewijn’, or burnt wine, took up less space in oak barrels, and this chance maturation process and infusion of vanilla and toffee flavours from the oak metamorphosed the resulting liquor into something nutty, earthy and truly elegant.

Also Read: Introducing from Mexico: Corn Whisky

History

The Dutch pioneered, and the English followed. Thomas Hine, a 16-year-old linen trader from Devon, crossed the Channel right to the horse’s mouth, falling in love with a local girl and taking over her family’s Cognac business. Over the years, Hine discovered that if Cognac is matured in the infamous English weather instead of the strong French sun, it developed incredible full-bodied notes within the cask. Thus began the practice of sending portions of Hine Cognac from the cellars of Jarnac to England – possibly for more than 20 years – before being packed back to France for bottling. Such attention to detail rarely goes unnoticed; the ‘early landed’ Hine spirit is the official Cognac of the British Royal family.

What makes for a fine cognac?

Patrons obsess over Cognac not only for its parallels to barrel-aged whisky, but also because of its extremely limited production – less than one percent of the world’s spirits by volume – and the unique identity of its provenance. Truly a labour of love, this silky smooth digestif requires patience to produce and appreciate – a painstaking craft which can be imitated, but not replicated anywhere else on the planet. Surely, taste is deeply personal but what makes for an award-winning premium cognac?

We turned to experts in one of the world’s largest luxury travel retail DFS Group, for answers. “A premium cognac needs to strike the perfect balance between floral and fruity aromas and light oaky notes, [and] harmoniously combine the sophistication with refinement and cater to all the senses – from sight and touch to smell and taste,” opines Christophe Marque, President Merchandising, DFS Group.

We sipped a (large) number of sophisticated options to list just two. Whilst inflicting a flesh wound to the proverbial wallet, they epitomise elegance and demand to be savoured royally.

Also Read: Rum-surgence – From sailors’ grog to premium spirit

Top Picks: Richard Hennessy

Photo courtesy of Hennessy

The top-tier Richard Hennessy is always a standout with its hefty price tag, stately decanter, incredible design, and world-class legacy. One of the rarest Cognac in its collection – is blended from some of the scarcest eaux-de-vie in Hennessy’s reserves, sourced from the Founder’s Cellar on the family estate. Complexity, structure and vision are presented in each sip of this velvety, sensational crackling spirit. The taste is other-worldly, courtesy of the ageing in the historic French oak barrels, coupled with the experience of pouring straight from an elegant Baccarat crystal decanter; each sip is an immersion in the intertwining of history and future – sounds a lot like secret society but it’s one of those luxurious ‘last wish’ spirits…

Camus Symphony – Vivaldi

Camus Symphony French luxury, Cognac gafencu wine — *Photo courtesy of Camus Symphony*

This gourmet and expressive rollercoaster of an offering from one of the biggest independent, family-owned Cognac company, CAMUS, is moreish on a chilly night. The 48-year-old vintage is uniform in character, and like a harmonious orchestra, each flavour plays its notes in tandem. Fresh, spicy with notes of pear and apricot, Christophe Marque recommends some fine music to go with the “versatile spirit”. He says, “Camus Symphony is best enjoyed with music for an added stimulation to the senses, each cognac has been created to reflect the personalities and masterpieces of Vivaldi, Mozart and Verdi, with each bottle engraved at Les Ateliers Camus with a music score of each composer.”

Fresh, spicy with notes of pear and apricot – this unexpectedly soft and silken tipple makes you almost feel guilty for liking it so much.

Top Picks: Hennessy Paradis

hennesy paradis French luxury, Cognac gafencu wine — *Photo courtesy of Hennessy*

Nurtured to maturity by the passion of successive generations of the same family, Paradis blends 100 eaux de vie aged for up to 130 years. This fine seducer in amber gold hues finishes with an elegant and deep note of spices, flowers and truffles. An inferno in the mouth, team it with a pear tobacco and the craft tipple

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

Also Read: English Wines are Becoming Hip: Here’s a toast!

Toast to the new Year of the Tiger with the opulent Louis XIII

Ring in the Lunar New Year with a toast to welcome the 2022 Year of the Tiger. Serving as a symbol of wealth and happiness, what better way to raise your glass in celebration of a new beginning with close friends and family than with a luxurious imbibe, by the venerable Louis XIII.

Unparalleled in skill, knowledge and quality, the celebrated cognac maker puts out a sumptuous and deliciously tantalising cognac — a testament of the brand’s more than 140 years of experience in the mastery of producing one of the world’s most desirable and sought-after imbibes.

However, Louis XIII’s undeniably indelible flavours don’t come without the painstaking crafting process of each of its cognac. The distillery, since Louis XIII’s inception in 1874, have had generations of wine cellar experts curate a staggering array of eau de vie made from grapes grown in France’s Grande Champagne region.

These experts select from over 1, 200 different eau de vie – some younger, while some date back centuries – to create a harmonious blend of rich flavours. Over 250 disparate aromas are incorporated together, resulting in a vivid freshness of passion fruit and spice of ginger to rich notes of candied plumbs; giving the tipple its common comparison to drinking a sumptuous sip of perfume.

Even while the focus of carefully distilling decadent cognacs, equal attention is paid to the bottling process as well, ensuring the finished product is fit for the eponymous French king the brand takes its name from. As such, each bottle is lovingly handcrafted by artisans of one of two French royal crystal workshops – Baccarat or Saint Louis – transforming the containers into glorious works of art fit to present as the perfect gift for the Lunar New Year.

Stay in touch with LOUIS XIII:
Website: https://www.louisxiii-cognac.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LOUISXIII
Instagram：@LOUISXIIICOGNAC
Youtube：https://www.youtube.com/user/LouisXIIIofficial

Call to join the LOUIS XIII Society:
Hong Kong: +852 37109396
Macau: +853 2871 9699

Louis XIII: The perfect present for loved ones this gifting season

With the holidays just around the corner, there are more than a few reasons to raise your glasses to in celebration. While home-bound with close friends and loved ones this time of the year, a toast to togetherness and new beginnings comes complete with the perfect winter imbibe to share or gift this season, the venerable Louis XIII.

Boasting over 140 years of experience, the luxury cognac maker boasts unparalleled skill, knowledge and sheer savoir-fair in creating deliciously tantalising cognacs, that few can match up to — it’s small wonder, then, that it makes for the most desirable and sought-after of presents.

Making moments into memories, the root of the indelible flavours of Louis XIII lie in the painstaking brewing process each cognac undergoes. Since the master distiller’s founding in 1874, generations of wine cellar experts have amassed and curated a staggering array of eau de vie made from grapes grown in France’s Grande Champagne region.

To ensure the ultimate blend, these experts select from over 1,200 different eau de vie – some younger, some dating back centuries – to create a synergistic whole. Over 250 disparate aromas are instilled within, ranging from the vivid freshness of passion fruit and spice of ginger to rich notes of candied plumbs. Small wonder, then, that drinking Louis XIII has been compared to drinking perfume.

Even as great care has been taken in distilling the cognacs, equal attention is paid to their bottling to ensure the finished product is fit for the eponymous French king the brand takes its name from. As such, each bottle is lovingly handcrafted by artisans of one of two French royal crystal workshops – Baccarat or Saint Louis – transforming the containers into glorious works of art. Epitomising cognac-making both without and within, Louis XIII makes for the perfect present to gift that special someone this festive season.

Stay in touch with LOUIS XIII:
Website: https://www.louisxiii-cognac.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LOUISXIII
Instagram：@LOUISXIIICOGNAC
Youtube：https://www.youtube.com/user/LouisXIIIofficial

Call to join the LOUIS XIII Society:
Hong Kong: +852 37109396
Macau: +853 2871 9699

The Louis XIII: Shaping the face of cognac for over 140 years

For over 140 years now, the house of Louis XIII has delighted discerning drinkers with ever-greater expressions of some of the world’s finest cognacs. Throughout this storied legacy, there has been one continuous centrepiece that has tied it all together – the Louis XIII Classic. Introduced right as the French maison was founded in 1874, the Louis XIII Classic has housed some of the most iconic iterations of the Louis XIII Collection, ranging from La Miniature to the Louis XIII Magnum.

With each crystal gem being handcrafted by the finest crystal houses in France, every Louis XIII Classic is individually numbered, a personal invitation to share in the exclusivity of the Louis XIII experience. As Global Executive Director Ludovic du Plessis explains: “With each decanter taking generations of Cellar Masters to create, crafting Louis XIII is like building a cathedral: each perspective offers a different approach to the masterpiece.”

Encompassing a symphony of aromas and offering a veritable treasure trove of notes such as roses, honeysuckle and preserved plum on the palate, it’s small wonder, then, that Louis XIII Classic is the perfect celebratory toast to Chinese New Year and, makes just the right gift for that remarkable cognac-lover in your life.

For any purchase or enquiries, please contact Calvin Chen: Calvin.Chen@LOUISXIII-COGNAC.com.

Rémy Martin launches new campaign to team up for excellence

The world’s leading cognac brand, Rémy Martin, pays a rich homage to its heritage through a recently-launched new global communication campaign “Team Up For Excellence”.

This quest for excellence has been at the core of Rémy Martin since 1724 and over the passing centuries this urge to strive for brilliance has only heightened further. The new campaign encapsulates that very essence of the brand through two films conceived by the Fred & Farid Paris agency and directed by Brazilian director Vellas.

The first film dedicated to Rémy Martin’s expertise shows masters of the Rémy Martin Estate together for the first time – Baptiste Loiseau (Cellar Master), Laura Mornet (Viticulture Consulting Manager), Julien Georget (Estates Manager) and Michael Meunier (Cooperage Manager). The film delivers a sensory experience through an ingeniously choreographed sequence linking the stages of cognac making.

The second film entitled Start-up is more contemporary in appeal, rooted firmly in the vibrant world of young, pioneering companies. It celebrates synergy, collaboration and the all-powerful force of creativity.

Cognac conversations with Florian Hériard Dubreuil, Brand Ambassador of Rémy Martin

The name ‘Dubreuil’ brings with it respect and responsibility in equal measure. It is after all the very same family that has held the reins of leading cognac maison, the House of Rémy Martin, since 1965. So it was a special occasion for the maison when Florian Hériard Dubreuil, a fourth-generation member of the distinguished family, and the International Brand Ambassador for the House of Rémy Martin flew to Hong Kong to facilitate a unique pairing experience with premium cognac Rémy Martin XO and gourmet chocolate, courtesy of leading chocolatier La Maison du Chocolat. We caught up with Mr. Dubreuil as he took us on a journey to reveal the legacy and opulence of Rémy Martin.

What is like to grow up in a family which has such a rich legacy?

It was both a blessing and a privilege to have grown up in such an illustrious family, which gave me the opportunity to be exposed to great experiences, great aromas, legendary cellar-masters, gourmet gastronomy… and living your life as an art. It’s also an honour to have been transmitted this special know-how to inspire other people to continue our legacy.

What is the universal appeal of Rémy Martin XO?

Rémy Martin XO is an opulent mix of aromas with a lingering long finish. We use the eaux-de-vie from grapes grown only in the best Cognac regions – Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, together known as Cognac Fine Champagne. And we then age it for a long time to give it a wide range of aromas – of flowers, fruits and spices, reminiscent of late-summer fruit, juicy plums, ripe figs and candied oranges, hints of cinnamon and hazelnut from ageing in oak barrels, along with a velvety texture, flamboyant mahogany colour, supreme density and exceptional mellowness.

Why do you think a cognac like Rémy Martin XO pairs so well with chocolate?

From growing fruits to perfecting their subtle aromas, both cognac and chocolate are created in unexpectedly similar ways, developing complementary flavour profiles. Chocolate pairing especially enhances the roasted dry fruits and cocoa facet of Rémy Martin XO’s aromatic spectrum.

What are the best ways of appreciating cognac in Hong Kong’s tropical climate?

The ideal temperature to savour Rémy Martin XO is around 23˚C. But if you’re outside and it’s hot, don’t hesitate to add some ice to your drink. It actually mellows the intensity, and the fruity notes open up even more.

With climate change being a sad reality, how do you protect your vineyards from the harsh effects of global warming?

It is our biggest challenge. We have experienced several really warm seasons for quite some time now. Whereas earlier we used to harvest in mid to late October, we harvest in early September now. There has been a lot of research over the last fifteen years to identify long-term solutions such as varietal innovation or resisting grape varieties.

To that effect, Rémy Martin has a large test plot of around one hectare for the planting of new varieties of grapes, which will meet the viticulture conditions of the future.

Thank you.

Flash, Flush and Festive: The Most Expensive Spirits on the Market

Here at Gafencu we were very excited to hear that ‘The World’s Most Expensive Gin” has just gone up for sale for a mere £4000, at the Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge. British brand JamJar Gin has distilled its limited edition Morus LXIV from the leaves of an ancient mulberry tree and sealed it in handmade ceramic jars. Just in time for our Christmas party!

We reckon Morus LXIV is going to sell pretty well, especially as compared to many of the other big ticket bottles out there it’s an absolute bargain. If juniper isn’t your thing then have a look at the world’s most expensive…

… Cognac

Surely the ultimate Christmas tipple, the festive season is not complete without a bottle of the classiest of fortified wines. Camus, the world’s largest independent producers of cognac, released 1,492 bottles of Camus Cuvee 5.150, an extraordinary blend of five rare spirits from five different cognac-growing regions to celebrate their 150th anniversary in 2013. The US$5,000 price tag includes an individually numbered Baccarat crystal decanter and two matching tasting glasses.

… Tequila

At US$3.5 million per bottle, Ultra Premium Ley .925 Pasion Azteca is not for knocking back with salt and lime. This is a six-year-old sipping tequila, and while you’re sipping why not take a moment to take in the bottle. Designed by Mexican artist Alejandro Gomez Oropeza, the bottle is handcrafted from platinum and studded with diamonds. Best get some swish glasses to match.

… Vodka

Although the Billionaire Vodka brand sells its bottles for more, they have kept it locked up in bars and restaurants. However the good people at Hong Kong-based vodka brand Royal Dragon know that you might want to host your own Christmas cocktail party. And so for a mere US$5.5 million you can take home six litres of their silky smooth, charcoal distilled Eye of the Dragon vodka, which comes in a hand blown bottle decorated with 2 kilos of 18 karat gold and 620 karats of diamonds – including a round-cut yellow diamond pendant. The best part is of this show stopper is that your guests will be so enthralled by the bottle you probably won’t even have to talk to them.

… Whisky

We’re calling this one a tie. This is because, while Isabella Islay’s luxurious hand-crafted 40-year-old Original Scotch Single Malt Whisky is not to be sniffed at, it’s the bottle that really steals the show with an elegant white gold decanter studded with 300 rubies and 8,500 diamonds, which justifies the US$6.2 million price tag. However if you’re thinking more along the lines of “it’s what’s inside that counts” then keep an eye out for a bottle of this year’s Macallan’s Fine & Rare. Each year the distillery releases a small number of bottles containing its oldest and best whiskies from history. A steal compared to Islay’s bottle at approximately US$75,000.

Text by: Alice Duncan

Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve review: A tribute to the beautiful Borderies cru

Iconic cognac-maker, House of Camus, has recently launched the new Borderies XO Family Reserve across five cities globally – and Hong Kong takes place of pride among them. To celebrate the occasion, Camus recently hosted a tasting at Pierre in Mandarin Oriental.

Cellar master Patrick Léger tastes the Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve

To understand the full nuances of this particular cognac, however, one has to go as far back as 1863, when the Camus family built their home in the middle of the Cognac region in a vineyard that boasts the most concentration of Borderies cru. This most-sought-after of vines is among the oldest and smallest cru in Cognac, representing less than 5% of total AOC. Not only are they rare, but they are also the most aromatic – thanks to the unique combination of limestone, clay and flint – making Borderies the key ingredient in any blend worth its name. It is on this exceptional land that the Camus family has carried on the legacy of great cognac crafting across five generations.

The new Borderies XO Family Reserve can be seen as a culmination of this rich heritage that has been passed down in the Camus family from generation to generation. Talking about the complexities of the Borderies XO Family Reserve, cellar master Patrick Léger says: “It was a real technical challenge. At every step of the process, each eau-de-vie was fermented, distilled, and aged separately. Some were more mineral while others were rounder, smoother, or more floral. The non- negotiable goal was to preserve the typical features of each eau-de-vie to the greatest extent possible in order to achieve the purest incarnation of the Borderies.”

Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve is best tasted in tulip-shaped glasses

Tasting Notes
Nose: Rich and complex aromas with a perfect balance of floral and fruity, with a hint of vanilla
Palate: Powerful, rich and creamy, revealing an aroma of pastry and subtle spicy notes
Finish: Floral, with violet notes

Price: HK$2,300
Retailers: Wai Shing Wine & Spirits, Wine ‘n’ Things, Kee Hueng Wine Cellar

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Martell’s special luncheon combines Chinese cuisine with the new Cordon Bleu Extra cognac

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To celebrate the release of Martell’s newest addition – the Cordon Bleu Extra – to its iconic collection of spirits, the cognac house held a special luncheon at the Gaggenau Showroom recently. Guests were invited to experience a unique pairing of Martell cognac and Cantonese cuisine (courtesy of Renaissance Harbour View’s Dynasty Restaurant) inspired by the Martell house’s dynamic new ‘Be Curious’ ad campaign. Seated in the unconventional layout of the Gaggenau test kitchen, diners were invited to challenge their gastronomic preconceptions with a menu devised to complement three distinctive Martell blends. Highlights of the meal included Ruby & Golden Mountain, an unexpectedly modern combo of pork and taro, and the Curious Rice, an innovative take on a yumcha staple elevated with abalone.

Talking about the concept behind the new Cordon Bleu Extra, Martell’s Heritage Director Jacque Menier explained, “[It] benefits from a rather high proportion of spirits from the Borderies region. Combined with our trademark double distillation technique, the result is a rounded and extravagant cognac with a signature note of blackcurrant.”

For diners wishing to experience for themselves the ingenious pairing of Chinese cuisine with Martell’s cognacs, including the Cordon Bleu Extra blend, a tasting menu will be available until 30 November at Renaissance Harbour View’s Dynasty Restaurant. Prices per head are HK$880.

Opulence Revealed: Rémy Martin’s newest X.O. cognac unveiled in Hong Kong

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Iconic French cognac house Rémy Martin has just unveiled the prestigious Rémy Martin X.O. Cannes 2017 Limited Edition in Hong Kong in an exclusive event titled ‘Opulence Revealed’.

Originally launched as a tribute to the 70^th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival, the cognac went on to become a runaway success in France, the US, the UK, China and Taiwan before being released in Hong Kong.

Limited to just 300 bottles in the Hong Kong market, the Rémy Martin X.O. Cannes 2017 cognac is strictly elite. Justifying the letters X.O. – extra old – the cognac has been aged for three decades using only the best-quality grapes from the Fine Champagne region of France.

Blended from up to 400 aged eaux-de-vie, the cognac creates a perfect balance of exquisite and refined notes. The rich amber colour, together with the fragrant aromas of jasmine, plum, figs, candied orange, cinnamon and hazelnuts, create a beautiful anticipation even before the first sip. Surprisingly, the Rémy Martin X.O. cognac is quite light on the palate and can be paired with any kind of protein.

The decanter is equally delightful to behold – a beauty in black and gold, reminiscent of film reels and with a gift box that also includes a film on the cellar masters and the craft of cognac-making.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay