Chocolate High: Climate change threatens not just our daily sugar rush but farmers’ livelihoods and producers’ bottom lines

Global sugar prices recently hit a 12-year high and cocoa futures spiked to levels not seen in 40 years. These are essential ingredients for chocolate and many manufacturers across the globe are voicing concerns about prices and supply constraints as climate change alters weather patterns.

Cocoa futures are believed to have soared due to fears of a “mediocre harvest”, according to Yves Brahima Koné, head of the Coffee and Cocoa Council in the Ivory Coast, who cited too much rain and little sunshine. Yields of coffee have also been affected by erratic weather.

Some chocolate manufacturers are so alarmed by the hikes in sugar and cocoa prices that they have been literally “praying for prices to drop all year”, the Financial Times reports. Nestle reportedly might pass on additional costs to the consumer on a selective basis for their chocolate and coffee products as input cost inflation continues to bite.

Weathering the storm

Professor Huw Dixon, an economist at Cardiff Business School, believes the cause of high sugar prices is primarily a short-term phenomenon driven by weather – in particular less rain in East Asia and India affecting sugar cane, combined with too much winter rain in Europe dampening beet. He believes the prices of these input commodities should even out, stating: “They may rise in the short run, but if weather conditions are more normal in the next harvest cycle they should return to more usual levels.”

Despite this optimism, the more long-term effects of climate change on yields of sugar and cocoa are less certain. West Africa is by far the biggest producer of the world’s cacao beans, which can only be grown in areas with the specific climatic conditions of good moisture levels and year- round high temperatures. The beans grow best in rainforests and within 10 degrees of the equator.

Academic research has not painted a clear picture cocerning long-term change in rain patterns, but worrying predictions abound, including that about half the cocoa belt in Africa will be unproductive by 2050 due to the effects of climate change.

Chocolatiers feel the pinch

In Hong Kong there are numerous specialist bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturers who are concerned about long-term supply and pricing considerations. Local producer Chocobien makes luxury chocolate using raw cacao beans and cane sugar, including the premium line of Kusa from Pure Nacional cacao grown above an altitude of 3,500 feet in Peru. A tempering and moulding process creates the aged chocolate bar.

According to Chocobien Chocolatier founder Arron Liu, the company has been confronting spikes in input prices of commodities in recent years. “The price of raw cacao beans and cane sugar has been increasing about five to six percent every year,” he says. “This has increased the production cost of our products.”

Despite surging costs, Chocobien has refrained from passing on increased costs to the consumer in a bid to retain its customer base. The retail price remains at the same level as 2020. “This means we are forced to reduce the balance on our net profit,” he explains.

Climate change wreaking havoc

However, Liu worries about the long-term consequences of global warming hitting suppliers and their ability to produce the all-important commodities of sugar and cocoa. “As global warming continues, its influence on the growth of the cacao tree and sugarcane will continue and get worse, which will be reflected in the price as the result,” he says.

He regularly receives updated supply information from their cacao farmers, with reports indicating a reduction in cacao beans every year due to too much heavy rain or drought caused by high temperatures. He believes these changing weather patterns are likely due to global warming or climate change, and fears for the impact on their suppliers and their families.

As to whether these developments will affect the range and sizes of his products, Liu says: “At the moment, it has increased our cost of production, but it might affect our business development in the long term, such as decisions on price range, a more limited scale of production and the ability to compete with other commercial products.”

Growing shift to Asia

Gavin Chan of Gamma Craft Chocolate notes the company has experienced a shortage in certain specific cacao varieties due to heavy rainfall in Central America – for instance, they were forced to stop selling one of their products for almost a year.

He fears global warming could affect the quality of cacao and production size in the traditional growing countries. Alternative sources from newly emerging countries are a possibility, however. “Some new cacao-producing countries like Taiwan, China and Thailand may benefit since the micro-climate may change there, making it possible to grow better quality cacao in regions that we have never imagined,” he opines.

Another local chocolatier, JOL Cacao, has experienced cost pressures due to price hikes in logistics. It makes bean-to-bar chocolate from Fairtrade-sourced cacao beans and cane and coconut sugar as well as chocolate flavoured with coffee beans. They fear climate change will also limit the harvest of cacao beans in the future, eventually leading to price increases. “I am afraid that there will be impact on the quality as well,” says a company spokesperson.

Lower yields, less land

Dr Nick Girkin, senior lecturer in plant soil systems at Cranfield University in the UK, says commodity prices are often affected by adverse weather conditions, which are exacerbated by climate change. “Longer-term climate impacts will result in lower yields and increasing costs, resulting in higher commodity prices,” he says, adding that instability in pricing in the longer term is likely.

His examination of evidence on how climate change will impact the availability of land suitable for coffee cultivation suggests the decrease in area of production is country-specific, but can range from 11% to 60% in some countries. The coffee trade is dominated by Arabica and Robusta and periods of prolonged drought are problematic for the development of flower buds, as are temperatures outside the optimal ranges. “Indirect effects such as climate impacts on pollinators can further affect production,” he notes.

Sustainable solution?

Girkin believes consumption patterns may change. “As climate change continues to adversely affect farmers (and consumers,) I would expect a growing demand for chocolate and coffee that is grown sustainably.”

He adds: “There are various potential environmental solutions that might have potential to build resilient coffee production and the production of other crops.” Pointing to regenerative farming, he notes the strides this has made in conserving water resources as well as minimising agrochemical inputs and reducing levels of soil disturbance.

A recent major survey covering 10,000 small- scale farmers in 18 countries by Solidaridad, an international civil society, highlighted climate change as farmers’ most significant concern.

Five reasons to buy from local coffee roasters and where to find them

Few things beat the pleasure of a morning cuppa, freshly roasted, grounded and brewed to rich, nutty perfection. Although a quick tap on a Nespresso machine could easily hit the right spot, there is something about fresh grounds that completes the blissful experience of a morning brew. Coffee roasters take raw coffee which comes in varying degrees of green and “cook” them in a roasting machine specially designed for coffee beans. Combining the perfect temperature and measurements of air, gas and time, roasteries are able to bring out the full, robust flavours of each coffee type. 

Sourcing from local roasteries across the city, these experts not only provide the freshest options of roasted coffees, but also provide top quality and a wide range of choices that are notches above those you would find at your neighbourhood supermarket.

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (7)

Making sure you always start your day right, Gafencu searched far and wide to find the local coffee roasteries to get your coffee beans freshly roasted and ensure you have your cuppa right. Check out our guide to the best local coffee roasters in the city.

1. Freshness

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (8)

To those uninitiated in the art of coffee making, many might not know that coffee is at its peak flavour between 3 days to 2 weeks after it’s been roasted. Which explains why store bought — no matter the grade, quality, origin and price, never seems to give you that same satisfaction and joy that a freshly roasted, ground cup of coffee does.

2. Quality

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (2)
(Photo courtesy of Coffee Roaster Asia)

Coffee making is a passion that gives and takes. To the coffee roasters, it is an art form, a combination of experience, expertise and calculative measurement that highlights the best flavour profile, aromatic notes and characteristics of each varietal type. To its customers, it is an aromatic pleasure and appreciation of quality and delicious notes that makes their day.

Much like sommeliers, coffee roasters use their knowledge of the wide range of variety, country of origin and altitudes, and source products small farmers that work hard to produce good quality coffee. These experts understand how best to roast the beans to bring out the full potential of each varietal — producing rich and balanced flavours.

 

Also Read: Ruling the Roast: Charting the rise of coffee culture around the world

3. Choices

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (9)
(Photo courtesy of Hazel & Hershey coffee roasters)

Offering more than just your typical Arabica and Robusta at your local supermarket, coffee roasters are just as passionate about their coffees as their drinkers. They source the best quality of coffee they can afford and import from a range of different countries. At your local coffee roastery will find a slew of choices that go beyond the milder Brazilian and Colombian options, such as the fruitier Ethiopian varietal or the richer Kenyan alternative. 

4. Expertise

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (4)
(Photo courtesy of Coffee Roasters Asia)

 

When you visit your local roastery, you will be able to experience different types or flavors of coffee that you might not otherwise be exposed to at your local Starbucks. And with so many choices to choose from, it can be overwhelming to pick out the right one to suit your palate. Fortunately, coffee roasters are knowledgeable in all things coffee, and will happily answer your brewing qualm, from brewing techniques to grind sizes and water ratio for particular brewing methods. 

5. Better for the environment

buy-best-local-coffee-roastery-hongkong-gafencu (5) 

Buying roasted coffee beans from local coffee roasteries are, not only a pleasure to drink, but it is also a great way to practice sustainability. The green at local coffee roasteries are roasted daily, some are roasted-to-order, and produced in small batches which helps reduce carbon footprint. You can also find certified Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance labels on some brands that ensures sustainable sourcing and productions. 

 

Also Read: Coveted Cuppas: The most expensive Chinese teas in the world

Where to get your fresh locally roasted coffee beans?

18 Grams 
18 Grams is Hong Kong’s premium specialty coffee company, Each coffee bean is grind upon order, ensuring maximum flavor from each type of coffee bean, they also offer coffee brewing equipment on our website. For more information: info@18grams.com. Good Luck Industrial Building, Kwun Tong. coffeeroasterylab.com

Coffee Roasters Asia
Coffee Roasters Asia sources high-quality green from coffee around the world. They offer a range of quality blends, single origin and premium coffee to choose from and frequently update their selections, providing customers a new flavour each time they return. Home delivery across the city is also available. For more information: (852) 9889 6155. Aberdeen Industrial Building, Aberdeen. coffeeroasters.com.hk

Hazel & Hershey Coffee Roasters
Hazel & Hershey is a certified Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance company. Exercising the practice of mindfully sourced beans, innovative coffee products and using pckaging materials such as 100% recyclable PE/EVOH coffee bags, their promotion of community and sustainable practices are central to its brand mission. Aside from coffee their online and retail stores also offer accessories for customers’ brewing needs. For more information: (852) 3106 0760 / (852) 9628 2468. Peel Street, Central. hazelnhershey.com

Cowbird Coffee
Most coffee lovers would have heard of % Arabica by now, but did you know that its Hawaii-originated beans are roasted locally in Lantau Island? Cowbird Coffee is a small batch artisan roastery that offers a roast-to-order service. For more information: hello@cowbirdcoffee.com. cowbirdcoffee.com

K-Town Roasters
Kennedy Town’s best kept secret is this hidden away homegrown K-Town Roasters. New to the scene this roastery only opened shop in 2021, offering locally crafted, carefully selected espresso blends and single origins that are freshly roasted in their Kennedy Town roastery. For more information: @ktownroastersktown.com.hk

 

Also Read: Locally Distilled: Have you tried Hong Kong’s hottest craft gins?

 

Ruling the Roast: Charting the rise of coffee culture around the world

Carrie Bradshaw measured her life in Manolos. I measure mine in coffee experiences – in cups and pictures scattered across my Instagram – an invigorating reminder of my obsessive coffee disorder. Much like Mozart, “I am just a dried-up piece of roast goat” without my morning cup of joe.

Millions of others in our caffeinated universe feel the same. The whiff of freshly roasted and ground coffee is an Aladdin’s cave to the senses – sharp, rich, nutty yet slightly abrasive. It is so much more than an average morning beverage. A near-essential adjunct to life, coffee keeps sanity in check, awakens the workforce, livens friendships and brings communities together, whilst being a multi-billion dollar industry supporting the livelihoods of over 125 million farmers globally. The British Coffee Association estimates that the planet consumes more than two billion cups of coffee each day. How did coffee conquer the world and what’s behind this collective unquenchable thirst? From crop to cup, we bring you the coffee story. 

gafencu coffee beans the best in the world coffee beans

The Origins
Google “origins of coffee” and more than 1,850 million results are splashed on your screen. Much like the beverage itself, which stirs provocative thought, its origin story is steeped in historical debate. Coffee was either discovered in the 15th, 13th or fifth century – depending on which source you trust. A popular tale attributes its discovery to an Ethiopian goatherd named Kaldi, who noticed that his goats would prance in delight after eating the berries and leaves of a certain bush. Curious, Kaldi himself munched a mouthful and exhibited the same extravagant behaviour. Locals who tried these berries felt more alert during overnight religious ceremonies. The beloved bean became a staple at elaborate rituals. And one fine day, the tribe soaked the beans in cold water and found them far more appetising in liquid form. Historians peg this account to about 850 AD. 

gafencu coffee beans the best in the world perfect brew

Bean to Barista
Even with the advent of modern technology, coffee is a notoriously tricky plant to grow. From seed to supermarket shelf, it undertakes a meticulous journey that begins in shaded plantations of tropical countries such as Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, Columbia and Vietnam – the biggest producers of coffee on Earth. The beans are first sprouted and then planted in monsoon season for the best harvest. After years of hard work bolstered by perfect wet and cool conditions, they blossom into plants called Coffea that bear red, cherry-like fruit. Coffee beans are the seeds of this fruit. Just as the quality and taste of wine depends on the terroir of the grapes, each coffee blend has a distinct flavour determined by the conditions in which the beans grow. Once the fruit is ripe, famers selectively handpick the freshest, healthiest specimens to be washed, dried, sorted and graded for the harvest process. Overall, it takes more than two and a half years and 15 laborious steps before the actual coffee trade can begin. The road to sobriety is a 12-step procedure – consider that when you sip your third latte of the day.  Before your local barista can brew the daily grind, beans must be pulped, fermented, milled, hulled and finally cooked at optimum temperatures. When cracks begin to appear, the colour changes, acidity and aromas are sharp enough to ignite the senses, and the texture feels right, the beans are ground, vacuum packed and delivered for sale. The caffeine buzz that fuels you is part science, part art.

Coffee beans plant_gafencu coffee beans the best in the world

A Rogue Called Robusta
Although there are more than 100 types of coffee trees known to mankind, only a handful  of the beans are suitable for drinking. The two which play a significant role in the global coffee trade are arabica and robusta, and whilst the former is genetically superior, botanically they are siblings of the same Coffea plant. If you close your eyes and just smell the beans, it’s the difference between sweet and sour cherries. The cheap, bitter, low-grade workhorse bean of the coffee family is robusta. High in caffeine content (2.7 percent versus arabica’s 1.5 percent) and short on sophistication, these beans can produce a heavy body and fuller crema. They pack a blunt, jolting, one-dimensional bitter taste. It’s like expecting champagne and getting vinegar. This is the kind of coffee that puts hair on your chest, which is precisely why it needs to be paired with milk and sugar to render it palatable. The quality ranges, with the lower end of the crop making decaf and instant while higher-grown, washed robusta is used in espresso blends and often as a filler in arabica to keep the costs in check. Vietnam is the world’s leading producer of robusta. 

Also Read: Top five healthiest plant-based milk options for your latte

gafencu coffee beans the best in the world coffee shop

The Grace of Arabica
Arabica is the good stuff. The real deal, the promise of subtlety, quality and luxury. The plants that produce these beans are weather sensitive: they demand meticulous care and perfect soil conditions; harsh sunlight will kill the crop; abundant rainfall is a must; and temperatures should be pleasant and cool. The ‘100% arabica’ label on your coffee pack attracts social snobbery, but it does not define taste. Arabica is superior to robusta, no doubt, but the bean is delicate; taste can be delineated from plot to plot on the same farm, depending on weather, ageing, roasting and the packing process.There are more than 70 subvarieties of arabica, each with a nuanced taste, complexity, aroma and acidity. If you get your hands on the pure stuff, there’s nothing more exotic than a freshly brewed cup for lifting flagging spirits. 

Coffee cultivation process_gafencu coffee beans the best in the world

Future-Proofing Coffee
Coffee is a social currency that binds people together. It’s not just a drink; coffee shops sell experiences. They have a deep allure in history and literature – from Elliot to Kafka and Fitzgerald, many respected works have been written in these meeting places. In popular culture, cafés have been pivotal in countless television shows – Friends and Gilmore Girls to name a few – not only fuelling a boom in coffee culture, but also adding a beguiling sense of sophistication to coffee drinkers.

This year marks the 301st anniversary of the longest-running café in the world. Caffé Florian in Venice is a place of history. Casanova, Monet and Andy Warhol, amongst others, were regulars here. They sipped coffee over many enchanting conversation and revelled in its sensory delight. But climate change and extreme weather conditions are increasingly threatening the supply of quality coffee.

gafencu coffee beans the best in the world

The genetics of the crop dictate that arabica bushes grow best on cool mountainsides where temperatures fluctuate within a very limited range of 18 to 22°C. Global warming and rising temperatures will have a devastating effect on production. Temperatures in Brazil alone are predicted to rise 3°C by 2050, ushering in bouts of drought, ferocious pests, and diseased crops. If we don’t reverse the impact of climate change, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change predicts that two-thirds of coffee farms in Minas Gerais and São Paulo might be wiped out by the end of the century.

The future of coffee farming looks bleak. The only glimmer of hope is that scientists are studying newer, resistant species, which can thrive in a warming world. It’s a race and we need to act fast. For now, as you flip the magazine pages and sip a fine brew, raise a toast to Kaldi and his curious goats. 

Also Read: For Pain, Not Pleasure: Are CBD oils and edibles really effective?

(Text – Nikita Mishra)

Expensive Expresso: San Francisco Cafe sells out of the world’s most expensive cup of coffee

If you thought Hong Kong was home to the most luxurious mug of java in the world, it’s our duty to inform you that you are mistaken. In fact, Klastch Coffee based in San Francisco and Southern California is now responsible for serving up the world’s most expensive cup of coffee — at US$75 a cupful.

most expensive cup of coffee

The exclusive brew on offer is the Elida Natural Geisha 803, which is said to be US$803 per pound. What makes the beans so special is their victory as last year’s winner of Best of Panama coffee competition, also known as ‘the coffee world’s Oscars’, and have been limited to only 100 pounds (45 kilograms) of beans.

As the only chain in North America to secure some of the award-winning and indeed very rare beans, Klatch is wise to serve up their cups at such a hefty price, seeing as the other buyers are located mostly in Asia. While it may be true that coffee lovers have a bit of a reputation for going to extremes, we’re not so sure they’d be willing to hop a plane to Japan, China or Taiwan to find the other purchasers.

As for the taste, the coffee has been described as being a rare mix of Arabica from Panama including hints of jasmine and berries similar to tea. 

Limited to only 80 cups, this is a cup of coffee you surely won’t be able to forget.

Espresso to Go

No longer will adventuring in the Great Outdoors necessarily condemn you to a subpar, lukewarm coffee experience, just when you need your caffeine fix the very most. Thanks to the Handpresso Pump – a portable, handheld espresso machine that can literally be taken anywhere and everywhere – it is now easy to make premium quality espresso on-the-go.
The Handpresso comes in a convenient kit, containing an espresso pump, a thermos flask and a set of elegant espresso cups, ensuring you never have to slum it ever again, even while fishing, boating or camping far from home. Designed by an in-house team at Handpresso, the portable, manual pump is able to generate 16 bar of pressure, allowing you to prepare a premium, tasty espresso said to be on par with some of the most expensive espresso machines on the market. Now available in more than 50 countries worldwide and a winner of no less than seven international design prizes, the widespread popularity of the device is an apt testament to just how delicious an espresso it can deliver. Available in a range of colours and editions, including manual as well as automatic pumps, it has never been easier to make a delicious cup of espresso anywhere or anytime.

www.handpresso.com/en/espresso-machines/